How to prune a raspberry tree?

Many gardeners, especially beginners, consider pruning raspberries in the fall to be the best decision. The fact is that at this time we have already formed annual shoots, which should almost ripen by 90%, and last year’s shoots, from which we harvested.

Our task is to give annual shoots the best possible preparation for winter; they need:

light;
nutrition;
absence of pests;
absence of diseases, especially viral ones;
mulching (covering the soil around the bush with some porous material)

Therefore, even before the onset of autumn, as soon as the harvest is harvested, it is necessary to cut out all the fertile plants, leaving about 4-5 green first-year plants, feed them well, especially with potassium fertilizers, and water them.

If we see weak, diseased shoots, we also cut them out. If there are diseases, spray with a suitable medicine.

To prevent moisture from evaporating and for beneficial microorganisms and nutrition to form in the soil, it is necessary to mulch the raspberry bushes with weeded weeds, pine needles, and mown grass.

At the same time, we cut out the stumps remaining from the old trimmings so that diseases and pests do not appear there.

But in the fall we’ll adjust everything again, and trim the tops of the bushes by 10-15 centimeters so that they finally ripen.

For beginning gardeners, pruning raspberries is not a very clear process at first glance, regardless of the time of year. It consists of several steps.

In the spring we have several, 4-5 last year's strong shoots.
By the beginning of summer, several more young green ones will grow next to them.
When they grow to a height of 1-1.20 meters, cut off the tops of the raspberries by at least 15 centimeters.
By this time, the harvest from last year's plants has been removed and we are cutting them off to zero.
Side shoots will begin to grow from the tops of the remaining first-years; let them grow.

Description of standard raspberries

This type of raspberry, the standard one, appeared in gardening relatively recently, in the 90s. As a result of selection by Doctor of Biological Sciences V.V. Kichina, a variety with an elastic stem was developed that does not need to be tied to a support, as is necessary with other varieties of the crop. The shrub is quite impressive in size, and the berries ripen twice a year.

As a result of proper pruning, you can get a strong bush, which in its shape will resemble a small tree.

Among the most common varieties of standard crops are:

Sturdy. It has a well-developed root system, thanks to which it grows quickly. Therefore, if further propagation of the variety is intended, then it is suitable like no other.
Tarusa. It does not reproduce as well as Krepysh, but produces a large amount of harvest with large berries. Less susceptible to various diseases.
Fairy tale. Its characteristics are very similar to the previous variety. Very prolific, with sugar berries. The shoots do not have thorns, unlike other varieties of the plant.

Note! Giving the shrub the shape of a tree makes it very easy to care for and collect fruits.

Features and Benefits

As already mentioned, standard raspberries are distinguished by a thicker stem, but it is impossible to say 100% that this is a tree. It is called this way only because after double pruning it acquires a specific appearance.

Gardeners highlight the following main advantages of the raspberry tree:

plantings reach a height of 2 m;
the stem of the bush is quite strong, does not require a garter and is able to withstand the weight of a large number of berries;
thanks to the many shoots, the yield of standard raspberries is much higher than that of conventional varieties;
the fruits grow large, juicy and sweet;
the plant produces a harvest until frost;
does not require special care.

Standard crops are famous for their excellent frost resistance: they can safely withstand temperatures down to -30 °C.

Necessary equipment

All instruments must be prepared in advance - sharpened and disinfected. Dull cutting parts damage branches and reduce the frost resistance of shrubs. And undisinfected tools can transmit various diseases, infecting raspberry bushes.

Correct cutting tool:

Secateurs. The main tool for removing branches and brushwood. Can be replaced with pruning shears.
Lopper. Useful for trimming thick shoots.
Garden knife. To correct unsuccessful, problematic pruning.
Rake. Used to remove trimmed branches, twigs and leaves.

Reasons for pruning a raspberry tree in autumn

Pruning a raspberry tree in the fall is carried out regardless of the type of shrub. If you do not trim regularly, the bushes will produce fewer berries and the quality of the fruit will deteriorate. They may crumble prematurely or dry out.

Gardeners talk about the following reasons for performing pruning work:

Thinning shrubs to increase productivity. If there are an excessive number of shoots, the berries will be sour and very small.
The development period of standard raspberries is 2 years, so in the third year of its life it is necessary to remove overgrown branches that will no longer bear fruit.
In autumn, remove all dry, diseased or mechanically damaged stems.
Formation of passable paths in the raspberry forest, facilitating watering, weeding and other care for it.

Note! As you can see, the reasons for a “haircut” are very serious and therefore its implementation cannot be neglected.

Harvesting

Do not pick raspberries immediately after rain or when there is dew to avoid rapid spoilage. Raspberries with a stalk are stored longer and are easier to transport. Harvest every two days as ripe berries appear (usually mid-July); avoid over-spilling, as this will cause the fruits to wrinkle.

As you can see, a raspberry tree can not only produce a rich harvest of delicious berries (with proper care), but also decorate your areas with its unusual appearance. Don't forget to repost this interesting article for your friends, and also subscribe to new publications on my blog.

If you are thinking about how to increase your raspberry yield, then one of the effective ways is to properly trim the bushes.

Methods and tools for pruning

Although the standard raspberry is considered a tree, it needs to be pruned. This procedure is carried out using sharply sharpened garden pruners. Thick gloves to protect against thorns are also useful.

Basic method

As soon as the snow melts, the raspberry tree is inspected. Dead, diseased and dry branches and leaves are removed completely. Those shoots that previously produced a harvest are cut off at the root, leaving no stumps. The upper part of the remaining ones is pinched. As a result of pruning, only healthy branches in the amount of 5-7 pieces should remain. 1.3-1.5 m high.

Double trimming

Gardeners also often resort to double pruning of shrubs, otherwise called the Sobolev method. It will significantly increase the amount of harvest. The execution diagram looks like this:

When the main stem grows to 100-120 cm, it is shortened by 15-20 cm. Because of this manipulation, the side branches will begin to develop quickly.
In mid-summer, the tops of the regrown side shoots are pinched, giving them the shape of a spherical crown.
The next year, with the onset of warmth, the old branches are pruned by 10-15 cm.

With the onset of autumn, the shoots need to be shortened a little so that they gain strength over the winter and produce a good harvest in the summer.

Double trimming

The principle of double pruning is to form a lush bush with a large number of fruit buds and berries. The first pruning is carried out in June, when annual shoots have reached 80–100 cm in height. Their tops are cut off to 10–15 cm. The second pruning is done the following year in the spring after the buds open to the same length.

It is important to perform the first pruning no later than June, so that new shoots have time to grow on the trimmed stem before the cold weather. To do this, raspberry bushes must receive proper care and all the necessary fertilizing.

Features of pruning a raspberry tree in autumn

Many gardeners are faced with the question of how to prune a raspberry tree in the fall, because it is the stage of preparation for winter that determines how the crop will survive until spring.

Until frost hits, no more than 10 shoots should remain on one bush. If there are more of them, this will not contribute to the high yield of the plant next year.

In addition, it is important to promptly remove diseased shoots, because sooner or later they will infect a healthy bush. If raspberries are left in a thickened state, a fungal infection may develop. It is necessary to get rid of all dried or broken branches so that they do not interfere with further care of the crop.

Note! In the autumn, raspberry roots can form young shoots, which also need to be destroyed, since before the onset of frost they will not be able to gain strength and will freeze anyway.

How does autumn pruning differ in different regions?

Differences in pruning are related to climate, it is the climate that adapts to its technique:

In the central regions of the Russian Federation, especially in the Moscow region, young shoots cannot be pruned for the winter. It is enough to tie them and cover them. This method allows snow to be used as a natural insulator. However, the use of artificial covering materials can be harmful - condensation often forms under them, which provokes the development of fungal diseases.
In Siberia, autumn pruning of trees is a mandatory agrotechnical procedure. Here the winters are so cold that it is impossible to do without shelter, and trimmed bushes make it possible to quickly and easily cover a raspberry bed.
In the Krasnodar Territory, pruning is carried out in late autumn. Gardeners have time to harvest their next fall harvest. True, autumn raspberries are small and there are very few of them, but it’s still nice when the bushes still bear fruit at such a late time.

Raspberries are unpretentious and bear fruit in any conditions, but if you are interested in a good harvest, large and sweet berries, then do not be lazy to trim the raspberries on time. Autumn pruning is especially important: pay attention to the correct time and technique for performing this important task.

Differences between pruning and remontant varieties

To harvest remontant raspberries, it is also necessary to prune them correctly. It is slightly different from the standard one carried out for ordinary varieties. The procedure is performed from September to November, but no later than 2 weeks before permanent frost sets in.

In the process of pruning a remontant variety, the following must be done:

Remove all fallen leaves from the raspberry patch and pull out weeds.
Carefully dig up the soil between the bushes, but not too deep, so as not to damage the horse system.
Trim all 2-year-old shoots (and this is often almost the entire bush), leveling them to the ground

To protect the plant from frost, you can cover it with pine needles.

Important! If you follow the step-by-step algorithm for pruning remontant raspberries, you can get a significant harvest for the next year, and the development of the bushes themselves will occur much faster.

During the spring, all cut shoots will grow back and by mid-summer they will begin to bear fruit. For a remontant variety, this pruning method is the most optimal and it is recommended to use only it.

Each standard raspberry variety has its own pruning technology: for some, only a small part of the shoots is removed, while for others, almost all the stems are cut off. But before you begin the procedure using one method or another, the first step is to study all the details in order to avoid the death of the raspberry bush. If you work well on the plant in the fall, then in the spring the gardener will have much less work.

Reviews and advice from experienced gardeners

Watch a video on how to prune raspberries in the fall:

Valentina Krylova. Vologda. I always leave pruning of raspberry bushes until spring. When I tried pruning in the fall, I noticed that the raspberries began to hurt less. Now is the time to do other work in the spring - planting herbs and vegetables. After picking raspberries, I immediately take up the pruning shears.

Svetlana S. Arkhangelsk. In the fall, you can immediately see which stems need to be cut. It’s easier to leave the required number of branches. The foliage is gone and the bush can be seen right through. When no more than seven shoots remain, the bushes bloom much more profusely and produce more berries.

Gardeners often wonder whether to prune remontant raspberry bushes immediately after planting new seedlings?

Answer: if the plant is planted shortly before frost, then prune it, leaving the stem approximately 10 cm high.

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Pruning raspberries and raspberry trees (according to Sobolev)

Saturday, January 10, 2015 13:09 + to quote book

Pruning raspberries and raspberry trees (according to Sobolev)

Pruning raspberries and raspberry trees

Pruning raspberries differs from summer and remontant varieties.

Summer ripening raspberries require you to remove fruit-bearing and weak shoots immediately after harvesting. Its biological feature is the death of two-year-old branches, so there is no need to feel sorry for them, cut them out as soon as possible so that they do not shade the raspberry tree.

In each bush you need to leave 3-4 powerful branches or 8-12 shoots per 1 linear meter of strip. Try to cut them right down to the soil; the stumps are immediately colonized by pests and diseases, so bury the pruning shears deeper into the ground.

Double pruning will double the yield (Sobolev method of pruning raspberries)

The famous Russian gardener recommended pinching growing branches twice: the first time - in late May - early June, when they reach 70 cm (low varieties) or 1-1.2 m in height, cutting off the top by 10-15 cm. This stimulates the awakening of the lateral branches. axillary buds, and by August-September 4-6 strong lateral growths (40-80 cm in length) are formed on the shoot. The second time these growths are shortened next spring by 5-15 or 10-20 cm (depending on the growth vigor of the variety). This increases the yield, but you cannot be late with the first pruning, otherwise the branches will not ripen by winter and will suffer from frost.

Alexander Georgievich Sobolev himself considered the second method of pruning raspberries to be decisive, turning each branch into a mini-tree: “The bush is completely covered with ovaries, buds, flowers and clusters of large, ripe berries. Fruiting lasts throughout July, August and September, until the onset of cold weather.” Thus, even ordinary summer varieties are capable of acquiring the properties of remontant varieties.

But success can be achieved with high-quality agricultural technology. In addition, the author himself admitted the shortcomings in his method. The first and most important is the density of plantings after double pruning. Compare for yourself: on the control 50 squares with four rows of raspberry bushes with 15-20 shoots in each, he collected an average of 15-20 kilos. He thinned out the plantings, leaving two rows of raspberries with a distance of two meters between the bushes, but it took several more years before he established the optimal number of branches. When 135 kg of berries were collected from the same fifty square meters, each bush had no more than four shoots.

How to trim a raspberry “tree”?

Raspberry “trees” are called standard-type varieties. These are Tarusa, Skazka, Krepysh and Galaktika, which, due to their thick stems, do not droop under the weight of the crop and do not require support. By the second year, the bushes are covered from top to bottom with fruit branches with greatly shortened internodes. To speed up this process, spring pinching is necessary (as with the double pruning method for ordinary summer varieties). The advantage of these “trees” is that they bear fruit until September and produce very little root growth, so they do not conquer new territories. If you cut out all the root shoots, leaving only one, the strongest, then the bush will really look like a nice tree. All weak root shoots are removed in the spring, and in mid-summer replacement shoots begin to grow, which are left for harvest next year. There are no more than three of them, stretching them along the trellis so that they do not shade each other. Fruit-bearing branches are cut out like a regular raspberry.

What does a raspberry tree look like?

Recently, the expression “raspberry tree” has become increasingly common. Is this just another trick of advertisers, a fiction or does it really exist?

In fact, a group of standard raspberry varieties is conventionally called a raspberry tree. The plant looks like a short tree with a thick, strong stem and grows up to two meters in height. The feature that distinguishes these varieties from others is that they generally do not require pruning (but pinching is required), gartering and produce few root shoots. Anyone who grows ordinary raspberry varieties knows what a problem it is when the raspberries spread all over the plot.

There are practically no difficulties with growing standard raspberries. Most varieties are very winter-hardy, can easily withstand frosts down to -30 degrees, and are rarely affected by diseases and pests. Even if the bush is sick, this does not affect the yield and taste of the berries at all. The berries are very beautiful, large, weighing up to 15 grams, in some varieties it reaches 20 grams. The yield from one raspberry tree is on average 4–5 kilograms, and with proper care and feeding up to 7 kilograms. The advantages of such varieties over ordinary ones are obvious - space is saved on the plot, several bushes of standard raspberries can produce more yield than an entire plantation of ordinary varieties. They do not spread diseases throughout the area - this is also important. But the biggest difference is that standard raspberry varieties produce crops continuously, throughout the summer, until frost. The standard varieties look unusual due to the ability of the side shoots to branch, this makes the raspberry bush look like a small tree. At a height of about a meter from the ground, a real belt of branches is formed, which are completely covered with ripening berries. Each such fruit branch can have up to 40 berries. The branches are very strong, but at the same time flexible and do not break under the weight of the ripening crop. But it’s still better to make a support for the raspberry tree. A trellis with several rows of stretched wire is well suited for this. The branches are tied to both the vine and make it easier for the plant and more convenient to harvest. The agricultural technology of growing differs from ordinary raspberries. Seedlings are planted in both autumn and spring. The soil must be well seasoned with organic and mineral fertilizers, otherwise you will not get a good harvest. All root shoots that appear around the young tree are removed, and in mid-summer replacement shoots will begin to grow, which are left for harvest next year. Fruit-bearing shoots are cut out in the fall to prevent diseases and pests from accumulating. Regular watering is very important for raspberries; even slight drying out of the soil sharply reduces not only the yield of this year, but also the next one. It’s easy to determine the time of watering - if you squeeze the soil taken from under a bush into a ball and it crumbles, it’s time to water. But you can’t overwater raspberries either, the roots will quickly rot and the plant will die. Small trees of large-fruited raspberries are a real factory for the production of healthy berries that will work without interruption all summer. Of course, provided that you take proper care. Popular varieties are “Galaktika”, “Tarusa”, “Fairy Tale”.

How to properly prune a raspberry tree?

Olga, Raspberry tree is the name given to some varieties of summer raspberries, which, as a result of selection, have acquired powerful, erect shoots resembling a tree trunk. The breeders themselves call such raspberries standard The first Russian standard variety was Tarusa. Then other similar varieties appeared. The main distinguishing feature of such varieties is their tree-like crown and shoots. They are strong, thick, elastic and almost perfectly upright, often completely devoid of thorns. This is where the resemblance to a tree ends - the shoots are small in height, growing on average to 1.5-1.7 meters. This gives the plant a slender appearance; its appearance can be called decorative. but these raspberry varieties are not actually any kind of tree.

Despite the impressive strength of the shoots, under a large harvest they still bend towards the ground, and sharp gusts of wind can completely deform them and even break them. Therefore, experienced gardeners recommend using trellises or other supports to obtain maximum yield. This bush shape and, as a rule, large berries and their good transportability contribute to high market demand for these varieties. Raspberries of this type are usually shaped in a special way. in the fall, when two-year-old shoots have already borne fruit, one-year-old shoots are shortened, i.e. They are pruned at a height of 1.3-1.4 meters and in this form they already go into winter. Thanks to this, next year the lateral branches will immediately begin to actively form, i.e. the so-called crown of the tree, and a new crop is formed on them. Otherwise, caring for the plant is the same as for other varieties of summer raspberries. Two-year-old fruit-bearing shoots are cut out in the spring, just like regular raspberries. In other words, it bears fruit on last year's branches, and to create more branches they are simply cut back at a certain height around August. It is not difficult to propagate such varieties; the plants usually produce an average number of replacement shoots that take root well.

Olga Evgenievna, please read carefully the deadlines and other things. I’m specifically answering your question.

Double pruning of raspberries In recent years, many amateur gardeners have managed to increase the raspberry yield in their garden plots by 2-2.5 times thanks to a change in the technology of its cultivation, which mainly consists of pruning the bushes twice. I do the first pruning of young raspberry shoots in June, regardless of the specific date, when they reach a height of 0.8-1.0 m. At the same time, I cut out only the top 10-12 cm long. After pruning, these shoots grow 3-3 by the fall. 5 side branches 35-50 cm long. In this form I bend the raspberries, and they go away before winter. After spring awakening, I lift the raspberries and immediately carry out the second pruning. At the same time, I prune all the side shoots, shortening them by 10-12 cm. This pruning is the main one, and after it, new fruit-bearing shoots are formed both on the central stem and on the side shoots. Each side shoot grows 3-5 branches. Thus, the raspberry shoot turns into a bush with 12-16 branches, which, during flowering, is completely covered with flowers. Flowering branches also appear along the entire length of the central stem. Thanks to this second pruning, the fruiting period is greatly extended. With such pruning, it is very important that thickening does not occur. I planted the raspberries in two rows with a row spacing of 2 m, and in a row per 1 linear m I leave only four or five shoots, no more . Otherwise, the raspberry tree thickens due to strong branching. In the fall, from the young shoots I leave the amount needed to replace those that bear fruit and another 2-3 pieces, in case of damage during overwintering; I regularly cut out the rest during the summer. Regular pruning of unnecessary young shoots during the summer is also important: for their growth from the mother plant, they consume a lot of nutrients, to the detriment of the harvest. With this cultivation technology, the raspberry shoot is completely unable to hold the large harvest that has formed, so I always install wire trellises on both sides of the row at a height of 1.2 and 1.5 m. France Khasanovich Khalilov, 423204, p. Green Grove, Bugulminsky district, Tatarstan.

1) The first pruning when the young shoot has reached a height of 80-100 cm (you want 60-100 cm); 2) Raspberry branching by autumn. With these shoots, the raspberries, bent to the ground, go into winter; 3) The second pruning of the side shoots immediately after lifting the raspberries and tying them to the trellises; 4) Branching of raspberries by the time of fruiting after spring pruning; (That's where the harvest is!). (This is how I prune raspberries of the Novost Kuzmina variety.).

Arrangement of trellises for attaching raspberry shoots. The posts and crossbars must be strong and durable!

How to properly prune raspberries in the fall - instructions for beginners

Thus, we get a small raspberry tree. (Sounds nice!)

Autumn has come. We only carry out a preventive inspection and pruning of weak, immature and diseased shoots and wait for spring.
In the spring, we cut off the tops of the side shoots so that the buds on the side branches awaken.
Thus, we will produce not only the tops of raspberry bushes, but also the tops of the side ones and small branches (they are called loterals) of the second order.
Afterwards everything will repeat from the beginning. The main thing is to remember to prune young plants by about 15 centimeters in July.
An increase in harvest awaits us!

I’ve been pruning raspberries this way for a very long time, I recently found out. that the method is called Sobolev pruning. Here's a video for beginners on the topic:

With this method of formation, a trellis is needed for tying raspberries. I'm sure you can make it yourself.

I also think that the bushes can be planted in one row at a distance of about a meter from each other. This will increase productivity. what I wish for you from the bottom of my heart!

The entry was published by vsad in the Gardening section.

Hello my dear friends! Today you won’t surprise anyone with standard raspberry bushes that grow throughout the entire territory of the site in a couple of years, so I want to tell you about a relatively new technology for growing this berry. Let's talk more specifically about what a raspberry tree is, planting and caring for a video of the process of growing this plant.

I will also introduce you to the features of standard raspberries and Tarusa raspberries, I will try to briefly describe the method of growing raspberries and the potential difficulties that you may encounter when working with these varieties.

About standard raspberries
When and how to plant standard raspberries
Seedling care
Enemies of standard raspberries
About Tarusa raspberries
When and how to plant Tarusa raspberries
Caring for seedlings of the Tarusa variety
Harvesting

Advantages and disadvantages of growing standard raspberries

Among the main advantages are the following:

Varieties of standard raspberries are more resistant to diseases and cold.
They can bear fruit even in extreme heat (above 30 °C).
The shoots of some varieties are thornless, so it is convenient to pick berries from them.
The fruits are large in size, the stalks are easily separated.
Productivity is high - up to 6 kg from 1 adult plant.
There is no need to tie up the shoots.
This raspberry produces little growth and does not grow beyond the boundaries of the site.

The disadvantage of standard raspberries is their remontability: when grown in the middle zone and to the north, the 2nd harvest may not fully ripen. Another drawback: raspberries produce few replacement shoots, so it is difficult to propagate them in sufficient quantities.

What tools are needed

Full pruning can only be done with the help of constantly disinfected sharp pruning shears. A tool with dull blades will do a disservice, as it will crumble and damage the branches, which will affect the winter hardiness of the entire plant. But the disinfection process is needed to exclude the possibility of spreading diseases to other shoots. Any disinfectant will do.

When working with secateurs in raspberries, do not forget to wear gloves!

Popular varieties of raspberry tree (standard raspberry)

Not all varieties are suitable for growing raspberry trees. For this purpose, several varieties were bred, all remontant. You can choose these varieties for planting in garden plots and cottages.

Tarusa

Tarusa raspberry tree is the most common variety used to form a raspberry tree. High-yielding, gives 2 harvests per season, medium-late. The roots of the plants are powerful, the shoots are thick, without thorns, raspberries are resistant to diseases and pest attacks. The berries of the standard Tarusa raspberry are large (12-14 g), red, and fleshy. From one bush you can collect up to 4 kg. This variety is recommended for cultivation in the Moscow region.

Eurasia

The variety is remontant, mid-season. The bush is of medium height (1.2 m), with average strength of formation of shoots, they have thorns and are dark purple in color. The leaves are large, wrinkled, the fruits are universal, conical, matte, dark crimson, weighing 3.6-4.6 g. Sweet and sour, ripen in June and August-September. Standard raspberry Eurasia produces up to 3 kg of fruit from 1 bush. It tolerates drought well, does well in heat, and is moderately resistant to disease.

Fairy tale

The shoots of the Skazka standard raspberry are thornless, the fruits are raspberry-colored, weighing 4-8 g, dense, retain their shape well and do not crush. Excellent fruiting of the Fairy Tale raspberry tree is possible only in warm autumn conditions. Produces up to 3.5 kg of fruit from 1 bush.

Sturdy

The raspberry tree of the Krepysh variety is characterized by rapid growth and reproduction - thanks to its powerful roots. The berries of this variety are ruby, cone-shaped, large, 8-10 g each. The variety is characterized by stable fruiting, good survival rate and adaptability to different conditions. Produces up to 4 kg of berries from 1 bush.

Types and varieties

Raspberries growing as a full-fledged tree do not yet exist in nature, just as there are no climbing strawberries. Thanks to selection, Professor Kichina V.V. It was possible to create a variety with a very strong trunk, and the gardener creates a tree from it with the correct formation. The varieties known as raspberry trees are more correctly called standard trees. Simultaneously with Kichina, Professor Kazakov also worked on developing standard varieties. He managed to obtain standard remontant varieties.

Tarusa. This is the first standard variety bred by Viktor Valeryanovich Kichina. The shoots are low - up to 1.5 m. Fruits in the mid-late period.

Advantages: large - up to 16 g of berries, high - up to 4 kg per bush, harvest, absence of thorns, strong stem.
Disadvantages: sour taste of berries, insufficient frost resistance - down to -30 degrees. The shoot-bearing ability of the Tarusa raspberry tree is weak - there are enough shoots to replace the fruit-bearing trunks, and there may be problems with reproduction.

Sturdy. The variety has tastier berries than Tarusa. But their size is smaller - up to 8 g, respectively, the yield is slightly smaller - up to 3.5 kg per bush. The frost resistance of the variety is at the level of Tarusa. But the shoot-bearing ability is much greater, and this variety is easy to propagate. Fruits in the mid-early period. The berries ripen unevenly and require frequent picking. Transported well. Fairy tale. The ripening period is average, fruiting is extended. The shoots are tall - up to 2.5 m. The berries are not inferior in size to Tarusa - up to 15 g, but the yield is much higher - up to 10 kg per bush. The taste is good with a high sugar content. The weak point is low frost resistance -25 degrees is the limit for it, and bending down a standard variety for wintering under cover is a thankless task. Eurasia is the first standard raspberry variety with remontant fruiting. The height of the shoots is 1.7 m. Frost resistance does not play a role in this case; the shoots are cut off at the root in the fall. The variety is distinguished by moderate shoot formation, which is more of a plus than a minus: these raspberries will not spread in all directions. Eurasia's berries ripen in early August, and by the end of September it produces its full harvest. The berries are large - up to 6.5 g of a beautiful dark crimson color. Their tasting score is 3.9 points, probably due to the noticeable sourness, but it accumulates vitamin C up to 35 mg. The advantages of the variety include excellent yield - up to 6 kg per bush and transportability of berries. The ability to be stored for several days without loss of consumer qualities is rare. Penguin. The shoots are low - up to 1.5 m. Medium-sized berries - up to 5 g, as well as the yield - 2.5 kg. The taste of berries depends greatly on the type of soil and weather.

Frost resistance down to -26 degrees, but for a remontant variety this does not matter. Fruiting from early August until frost

Landing rules

To grow such a miracle on your site, you need to plant it correctly. But, before planting a raspberry tree, you need to prepare the young plants and the area.

When is the best time to plant

The timing of planting a raspberry tree is mid-autumn or spring (before the buds open), when the average temperature reaches 15°C. It is in such conditions that raspberries take root best; if planted in the fall before the onset of cold weather, the plants may not survive the winter. In Siberia it is best to plant in spring.

Choosing a good seedling

It is advisable to purchase plants that are grown in a nursery, so you can hope that they are varietal. Requirements for raspberry tree seedlings: the root system must be powerful, well developed, dug out with a clod of earth. To prevent the root system from drying out, the root system should be packaged. You need to carefully examine the stem so that there are no thickenings on it - the raspberry gall midge is hiding in them. The trunk must be straight. The buds must not have blossomed or just burst.

Selecting a site location and preparing the soil

The raspberry garden should be located in a lighted, open place, protected from the winds. It is advisable to place it separately from the vegetable garden, beds with strawberries, wild strawberries and garden flowers, but it is possible next to fences and buildings, retreating 1 m from them. The site should not be swampy or located in a lowland. Soil – fertile loams and sandy loams, slightly acidic reaction – no higher than 6.5 pH (0.3-0.5 kg of lime per 1 m² is added to the acidic reaction). Preparation is carried out in the fall (or 1.5 months before autumn planting): the soil is cleared of plant residues, dug up, humus (on average 1.5 buckets per 1 sq. m) and ash (0.5 kg) are added. You can use nitroammophoska.

Technology for planting raspberry trees in open ground

Seedlings are planted in holes measuring 0.5 by 0.5 m, placed at a distance of at least 0.5-0.6 m in rows and 1 m between rows (ribbon method). They are prepared in advance so that the earth settles a little.

Add humus or a mixture of humus and peat and 0.5 matchbox of superphosphate into the holes.
Pour water into the holes and wait until it goes down.
Place a seedling in the center of each hole and straighten its roots.
Sprinkle with soil 2 cm below the level at which the plant grew in its original place, compact it around the seedling.

At first, the raspberry tree needs support, so they place pegs near the bushes and tie the stems to them.

Reproduction of the Tarusa tree

Tibetan raspberries are propagated by cuttings or using root shoots.

Propagation of raspberry tree by cuttings

When propagating by cuttings, the bush must be carefully dug up so that the root system is exposed. Of all the roots, those that have living and healthy buds are selected.

Cuttings are cut. Next, they are planted in containers filled with a sand-peat mixture for rooting. After some time, the cuttings are transplanted into new containers. These should be filled with soil. Cuttings are planted in open ground in a permanent place in the spring.

Reproduction of Tarusa raspberries by basal shoots

The raspberry tree rarely produces basal shoots, but if it does appear, it can be used for propagation.

The shoots are carefully dug up and divided into individual plants so that each of them ends up with its own root.

Next, dig holes or a trench for planting. You need to dig to such a depth as not to completely cover the cutting. Sawdust, humus and peat are placed at the bottom of the planting hole.

The seedlings are placed in a hole, covered with earth, compacted and watered abundantly, after which they are mulched.

Raspberry tree care

In order to properly care for raspberry trees, it is important to know about the features of their agricultural technology and pruning.

Features of watering

On average, raspberries are watered once a week, pouring at least a bucket of water under each plant. In hot weather, despite the drought-resistant variety, it must be watered, otherwise the fruits will be small and dry. If it rains, no watering is required.

Fertilizer application

The first feeding begins in the spring, during bud break. At this time, mixtures with a high nitrogen content are used, for example, watered with a solution of urea (50 g per bucket, consumption for 3 plants), saltpeter, infusion of slurry diluted in a ratio of 1 to 10 (1 bucket is poured onto 3 bushes). You can use nitroammophoska (30-50 g per sq. m).

The second and third feeding is carried out at the very beginning of flowering and when the berries begin to ripen. They use more phosphorus and potassium, although nitrogen is not excluded. Use superphosphate, ash, nitroammophoska (10 g per bucket, consumption for 3 bushes).

Mulching the soil

Immediately after planting the seedlings, the ground around them is covered with mulch. Hay, straw, peat, humus are laid in a layer of at least 5 cm. This is necessary to protect against drying out and reduce the number of waterings, to improve soil aeration, and prevent the growth of weeds.

Trimming and forming the correct crown

Pruning the raspberry tree is important. After planting a purchased seedling, they begin to form it when the trunk reaches 1-1.3 m. The top is pinched, which will stimulate branching.

In spring, the growth of young replacement shoots will also begin. You need to choose 1 strongest stem and cut off the rest. The formation of this young shoot of a raspberry tree is carried out when it grows to 1-1.3 m, the top is pinched off. The buds located from the ground to the height of the future crown are blinded so that lateral shoots do not grow from them. In this way, a bole of the required height and several living buds are obtained from which side shoots will grow. This plant will overwinter and in the spring fruit trees will grow on these side branches, from which the harvest will take place. Don't forget to leave one of the strongest young shoots of the year. The fruiting shoot is cut out at the root.

Harvesting

In the first year after planting there will not be many berries. You can only wait for the harvest next year. On average, raspberries ripen by mid-summer or a little later, however, it all depends on the region. The berries are collected as they ripen; they should not be over-exposed.

Harvesting is carried out in dry weather; after rain, the berries will be wet and will not be stored for long. The berries are picked by hand and placed in jars or baskets. Store in the refrigerator for no more than 5 days.

Preparing bushes for wintering

In the fall, after fertilizing and pruning, the root zone of plants is mulched. Cover it with covering material, maybe the same mulch, but with a layer of at least 10 cm. In cold regions, some varieties of standard raspberries need to be bent to the ground and covered with agrofibre, but if this is difficult to do, then the plants are protected from frost by throwing snow on them in winter as high as possible.

Control of possible pests and diseases

Despite the resistance of raspberries to diseases and pests, in the spring it is necessary to carry out preventive spraying against fungi with 1% Bordeaux mixture, Nitrafen, and before flowering - with Topaz (10 ml per 10 l). After the buds swell, the plants are sprayed with insecticides as a preventive measure. In the fall, remove the foliage and burn it so that pests do not hide in it, dig up the soil between the rows, and cover the tree trunk circles with pine needle mulch.

Main pests: raspberry fly, raspberry beetle, raspberry moth, weevil. If they appear in a raspberry field, you need to fight them using modern insecticides, ash, tansy infusion, mustard powder.

Gardener mistakes

Most novice gardeners often make mistakes when pruning raspberries. The most common mistakes that beginners make:

It is a pity to cut off strong young shoots - beginners believe that by cutting them they are depriving themselves of a future harvest. Overcome this “psychological barrier.” — Without pruning, the plants will get sick, the berries will be small, and the yield will decrease. This is the biggest and most common mistake new gardeners make.
Not all branches to be pruned are removed. Beginners often start with external branches. When pruning young shoots, mainly the outer shoots are removed without going deep into the berry. As a result, the center of the raspberry bed becomes overcrowded, which leads to a decrease in yield and disease. Be patient and remove shoots from the center of the seedling.
Do not remove twisted branches. By not pruning closely spaced and intertwining branches, gardeners increase the risk of disease. Branches that touch each other lose their protective layer and become susceptible to germs.
Incorrect pruning pattern. Often gardeners shorten only those shoots that need to be completely pruned. They trim only dry and broken branches and leave the rest in place. Sanitary pruning is not enough - to protect the crop, it is also necessary to carry out formative pruning.
Pruning damages flower buds. To avoid this, it is important to follow a pruning pattern. First remove all large branches, then small ones. Then you can trim faster and without damaging the buds.

Description of standard raspberries

Features and Benefits

Necessary equipment

Reasons for pruning a raspberry tree in autumn

Harvesting

Methods and tools for pruning

Basic method

Double trimming

Double trimming

Features of pruning a raspberry tree in autumn

How does autumn pruning differ in different regions?

Differences between pruning and remontant varieties

Reviews and advice from experienced gardeners

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Pruning raspberries and raspberry trees (according to Sobolev)

How to properly prune a raspberry tree?

How to properly prune raspberries in the fall - instructions for beginners

Advantages and disadvantages of growing standard raspberries

What tools are needed

Popular varieties of raspberry tree (standard raspberry)

Tarusa

Eurasia

Fairy tale

Sturdy

Types and varieties

Landing rules

When is the best time to plant

Choosing a good seedling

Selecting a site location and preparing the soil

Technology for planting raspberry trees in open ground

Reproduction of the Tarusa tree

Propagation of raspberry tree by cuttings

Reproduction of Tarusa raspberries by basal shoots

Raspberry tree care

Features of watering

Fertilizer application

Mulching the soil

Trimming and forming the correct crown

Harvesting

Preparing bushes for wintering

Control of possible pests and diseases

Gardener mistakes