Ground cover roses: care and cultivation, planting rules and the best varieties

Landing rules

Planting ground cover roses and caring for them is not a difficult matter, but if the bushes are planted incorrectly, it is almost impossible to wait for abundant flowering and good growth, even if you purchase high-quality planting material and good soil. Beginning gardeners need to know the rules of planting so that the flower garden looks well-groomed and elegant.

Choosing and organizing a place

Choosing a place to plant bushes is a responsible matter, so you need to take this seriously. Roses are light-loving, so planting in shaded areas of the garden is not recommended, but direct exposure to sunlight can severely burn delicate flowers and they will wither and die. It should be planted on the western or southeastern side of the front garden; the sun shines there only in the first half of the day, and afternoon shading will be a good protection from the midday heat.

Soil and landing

The soil for planting is prepared in the fall.
The site is dug up, weed roots and other debris are removed, and humus is added. Plants prefer a slightly acidic soil reaction within the range of 5.56.5 pH; when acidic, lime or dolomite flour is added. If for some reason the soil was not prepared for spring planting in the fall, you can do this 6 weeks before planting the roses, then the soil will have time to sag. Landing. Plants are planted in holes about 60 cm deep and 50 cm in diameter. When planting several plants in a row, it is advisable to dig a trench of the same width and depth as the planting hole

It is important, when filling the hole, to water the soil layer by layer to prevent the formation of voids, and after planting, compact the soil and water the seedlings generously. After the shoots grow to 5 cm, the soil must be mulched and mulched.

Depending on the type per 1 sq. per meter, it is recommended to plant from 1 to 3 bushes.

Adonis flower: growing, care and use of the plant

Container types of roses are planted at any time, bushes with an open root system - in spring and autumn. In the northern regions they are planted from April to June, in the south - in late autumn.

Basic requirements for the landing site

The growing conditions for roses are almost the same for all varieties. It should be in a well-lit, open area, away from tall buildings and trees. For planting creeping roses, it is advisable to provide a slight elevation, which will protect the plant from stagnation of melt water in the spring. Many varieties of ground cover roses have rather long branches, up to two meters. They can be used to decorate verandas and gazebos like weaving varieties. These varieties also look attractive in flowerpots, among compositions of stones and other architectural delights.

The future landing site must meet the following requirements:

Good soil aeration.
Light shading during sunny periods.
Western or southeastern direction.
Enough space for further growth.

It is preferable to plant roses on black soil or light loams. Too loose sandstones do not retain moisture and nutrients well, so it is recommended to add some clay to them. For heavy soils, it is best to use peat and humus as an additional ingredient.

Trimming

Creeping roses should not be radically pruned. Although in the first year the stems are shortened in order to cause tillering. It is necessary to form a bush to constantly limit the size, which is considered optimal for the variety. To prevent the occurrence of mold or fungal diseases, you need to ensure that the bush is ventilated and is sufficiently illuminated by sunlight.

Important! The shoots are cut at an angle of 45°, the distance of the cut from the nearest bud should not be less than 0.5 cm. They prune mainly those branches that are directed towards the middle of the bush and thereby thicken it greatly

If several shoots grow from one bud, the strongest one is left, the rest are removed. 5–6 years after planting, ground cover roses should be rejuvenated. Cut off all stems at a distance of 20–30 cm from the root. All cuts must be treated with garden varnish; the bush is sprayed with a one percent solution of copper sulfate.

No matter how beautiful ground cover roses are, caring for and growing most of them is not a very labor-intensive process, which is why this variety of flowers has become popular recently. They are in high demand and look very impressive in various flowerpots and flower beds. In addition, they often decorate nondescript areas.

Creeping roses are versatile and can be grown and tied like climbing roses. Planting such plants in the center of even the best grass lawn will give it much more originality. Small ground cover roses can be bred in wide containers and placed on the site in the summer, and brought into the house in the winter, turning it into a house plant for the winter.

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Preparing for winter

Preparation for winter begins in late August - early September. They begin to gradually reduce watering of the bushes and apply potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. Pruning is not done to stop the growth of new shoots. Growing ground cover roses is less labor-intensive than hybrid tea or climbing roses; they are frost-resistant and do not require special shelter. The exception is standard copies.

The crown of the bush is placed on spruce branches and covered with it or sawdust. Secure the rose in the desired position with iron staples. If necessary, if the variety is heat-loving, build an air-dry shelter.

Shelter for the winter

An important condition for the safety of planted ground cover roses is preparation for winter and reliable protection from frost. Many varieties of ground cover roses overwinter safely without additional shelter, but in the event of unfavorable weather conditions the plant may freeze, which will lead to poor development and even death of the bush. To prevent this from happening, experienced gardeners recommend covering the rose with ground cover for the winter.

It's quite simple to do this:

Low-growing varieties are covered with spruce branches and dry branches and covered with thick fabric or lutrasil on top. You can build an air shelter from a metal frame frame and agrofibre.
Medium-height branches are loosely tied in a vertical position and wrapped with a tarpaulin or other suitable fabric. The root area is covered with sawdust.
Tall varieties are laid on the ground, with previously thrown branches and spruce branches. This will help protect the branches from rotting. An air shelter is constructed on top.

It is necessary to cover roses for the winter after the first frost, because in warm weather the plant can die and rot. If warming occurs, the shelter is ventilated during the day. Leaves are removed from the bush in advance and sanitary pruning of branches is carried out. It is also recommended to trim thin and weak branches, which, if killed by cold weather, can be a source of infection of the entire bush. The cover is removed in early spring, after which it is necessary to assess the condition of the bush, remove frozen shoots, spray the plant with Bordeaux mixture and feed it.

The ground cover rose, the planting and care of which in open ground are discussed in our article, is unpretentious, but can decorate any area. They are often used in landscape design to “fill in” empty areas, as well as in the design of garden compositions. Proper care and reliable shelter for the winter will ensure the plant a long life and beautiful flowering.

When to prune roses in autumn

Autumn pruning of roses is carried out immediately before covering them for the winter. In regions with a temperate climate this is done in early or mid-November , and in areas with more severe weather conditions , pruning should be done in the second half of October . But the timing often has to be adjusted to accommodate climate change. So, during a long dry autumn, you should not rush to shorten the shoots, so as not to cause the awakening of the buds. And if an early cold snap is approaching, you need to have time to prune and cover the bushes before frost.

Weather conditions are also taken into account when planning pruning. For example, if this event is carried out in damp weather, the sections will remain wet for a long time, and then there is a possibility of infection and rot forming on them. Based on this, it is better to plan it on a warm, sunny day, and in the first half of it. In this case, the sections will be able to dry before the evening cold snaps.

Disease and pest control

Plants weakened by diseases overwinter poorly, bloom sparingly and, in the absence of human help, may even die. Therefore, you need to inspect roses from time to time.

Common diseases:

gray rot;
rust;
powdery mildew;
black spot;
bacterial cancer.

All fungal diseases of roses can be effectively treated with fungicides. Spraying is carried out when noticing the first signs of the disease, as well as in spring and autumn for preventive purposes.

For example, with black spotting, brown or black spots with a light rim are formed on the leaves. Over time, they merge, causing the death of the leaves. Disease spores spread with the wind. For treatment, the affected bushes and the soil around them are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture or iron sulfate. Preventive treatment is carried out in April and autumn, before the onset of frost.

Bacterial cancer cannot be treated with fungicides; a sign of the disease is light growths on the root collar and roots. Over time, they grow and darken, and the rose dies. There are no chemical treatments for this disease; the diseased plant is dug up and destroyed. For prevention purposes, it is recommended to carefully select seedlings when purchasing.

Rules for watering and fertilizing

Caring for ground cover representatives of the Rosaceae family is no different from caring for other types of roses

The main attention here needs to be paid to timely watering and fertilizing.

As a rule, bushes are watered in the morning, when the sun's rays do not touch the leaves. When the sun is hot, it is extremely undesirable to water the plants: moisture that gets on the foliage will cause burns. Foliar feeding and spraying carried out in the open sun can lead to the same result.

The queen of the garden is as negative about overwatering as she is about underwatering. Therefore, before watering, it is necessary to check the condition of the soil. If the soil layer has not yet dried to a depth of 3-4 cm, watering should be postponed. For the entire season, it is enough for ground cover roses to fertilize 3 times. The first is carried out in early spring, 2 weeks after the buds open. Fertilizers such as Tsitovit, Agricola, etc. are suitable. The second feeding is carried out after 30 days, and the third - in the fall. When feeding in autumn, only potash fertilizers are used.

Most ground cover varieties, especially low-growing and low-growing ones, do not need additional shelter for the winter, but during a winter with too little snow or severe winters, the likelihood of the bushes freezing is quite high. To reduce the risk of plant death, they can be covered with spruce branches. It is also recommended to build a simple frame from rods and cover it with lutrasil. The air layer will protect the bushes from frost. With proper care, the queen of the garden will delight you with lush flowering for many years.

Why prune roses in the fall

Pruning is an essential step in caring for roses. It promotes the proper formation of the bush, ensures its aeration, and for some species it is the main stimulating event that ensures abundant flowering next year.

Three main reasons why you should prune roses in the fall:

Shortened plant vines are easier to cover for the winter than long ones. This is especially true for species with erect stems, which are difficult to bend to the soil without damaging them;
The frost resistance of plants increases, since the upper part of the crown, most susceptible to freezing, is removed;
Pruning promotes the formation of large flowers.

In addition to these main ones, we can name several more secondary reasons in favor of autumn pruning of roses. For example, a flower garden in winter looks more well-groomed when there are no branches with dried leaves sticking out of the ground. In addition, hybrids that bloom throughout the summer enter a dormant state more easily after shortening.

The most popular varieties

Hello

Hello (Hello)
Low (about 50 cm), spreading bush. They are distinguished by large, densely double flowers, which during flowering change color from dark red to rich cherry. The flowers are odorless, but with the richest doubleness among ground cover roses. The variety is frost-resistant, immune, blooms profusely.

Swany

The bushes are tall, 75-80 cm. The crown is spreading, up to 2 m in diameter. The Svani rose stands out for its evergreen small shiny foliage and large umbrella inflorescences. Each contains up to 20 double, white with a pink center, fragrant flowers. Winter-hardy and very decorative shrub.

Ahtiar

Standard rose Ahtiar

A tall bush with long (1.2-1.5 m) flowing arched shoots. Large double flowers are collected in inflorescences. This landscape rose is used to create borders and green hedges, and is grown in a standard culture.

Ballerina

Tall, up to 2 m, bush with a rounded dense crown. Winter-hardy, drought- and disease-resistant. It blooms for a long time, continuously, until the onset of frost. Simple flowers are collected in brushes. The petals are white in the center, turning pink towards the edges. During flowering, the flowers increase in size and become somewhat lighter. They have a delicate musky aroma.

Scarlet

One of the most hardy and adaptive varieties. The bushes are low, up to half a meter. The foliage is dark and glossy. The flowers are double, deep red. Blooms profusely all summer and autumn

Fairy

The seedlings quickly take root, the shoots grow actively and in a short time form dense thickets up to 60 cm high. White, sometimes with a pink tint, double flowers are collected in clusters of 30-40 pieces. They bloom from July until frost.

Amber Sun

Spreading branched bushes, 50-60 cm in height and width. The branches are drooping. Small semi-double fragrant flowers of all shades of yellow - from copper at the beginning of flowering to cream at the end. Valued for long flowering, cheerful decorativeness, resistance to frost and rose diseases.

Matador

Low (up to half a meter) compact bushes. Scarlet semi-double flowers are grouped in racemes. One of the earliest flowering varieties, extremely resistant to diseases and tolerant of environmental conditions. Often planted in hanging pots and containers.

Fiona

A strong bush up to 85 cm, with long arched branches. The fragrant flowers are double, bright pink, medium-sized, collected in inflorescences. Blooms profusely from early June until frost. Winter-hardy immune variety.

Ground cover roses - description

For the most part, ground cover roses are dwarf plants that spread along the ground. Some gardeners successfully grow them in pots to decorate terraces, gazebos or walls of houses.

Ground cover roses have gained popularity due to their long flowering, because with proper and regular care they are able to amaze all summer with a riot of colors and the splendor of flower shapes. You can use plants as much as your imagination allows - to decorate a courtyard building, create a chic hedge, or decorate a flower garden with a bright, original element.

The Germans are considered the very first breeders of beautiful plants, and they introduced some classification. The following groups are distinguished:

with long curly shoots;
with falling branches;
with creeping, decomposed shoots;
low bushes with wide scattering;
compact small bushes with short twining vines.

Planting and caring for a flower

Roses grow in one place for many years. They have their own requirements for conditions of detention. Therefore, the place for plants is carefully selected. The decorative quality of the bushes depends on the work being done correctly.

Site selection and preparation

A place is selected that is illuminated in the morning and evening, and shaded at noon. The scorching sun can cause the petals of the inflorescences to burn out. They are planted away from high walls and fences. If the soil is wet, drainage pipes are installed on the site.

Ground cover roses prefer to grow in loam. Peat, sand, and compost are added to heavy soil. If the soil is too light or sandy, it is weighted down with clay and turf. Otherwise, moisture will quickly drain from the root system deep into the ground. Limestone is added to acidic soil.

Preparing the seedling

Thin, weak branches and broken roots are trimmed from the bush. An oblique cut is made above the bud located outside the shoot. To ensure that the root system is saturated with moisture, it is placed in a container of water. Potassium permanganate powder is added for disinfection.

Dates and seating charts

Ground cover roses are planted in the ground in spring or autumn. The period depends on climatic conditions. In cold areas, it is better to plant in the spring so that the bushes have time to take root before the onset of frost. In the southern regions, planting in the fall is allowed.

Planting is done as follows:

dig a hole with a depth and diameter of 50-70 centimeters;
a layer of drainage material is laid on the bottom;
fertile soil is poured into a mound;
a seedling is placed vertically in the middle;
Cover with soil and water abundantly.

The distance between the bushes is set depending on the variety of roses, as well as their purpose in the design of the site.

Watering mode

Immediately after planting, watering is carried out frequently. Subsequently, the land is irrigated after the top layer of soil has dried. Water ground cover roses in the morning or evening. At least 10 liters of water are added under the bush. Overhead irrigation is not recommended because it promotes disease.

Top dressing

When leaves begin to appear on the shoots in the spring, the first feeding is carried out. A mixture of nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus is used. Before flowering, complex mineral fertilizer is applied. If a rose blooms several times during the season, then each time it is fed during the budding period. During the dissolution of inflorescences, the soil is not fertilized. Potassium is added in the fall.

Mulching, loosening and weeding

Ground cover roses have spreading shoots, so caring for them is a little problematic. The crop needs loosening and weeding of the soil, and this is difficult to do. Therefore, immediately after planting, the soil in the tree trunk circle is mulched. The covering material helps retain moisture and prevents the growth of weeds.

Pruning and shaping the bush

A bush planted in autumn should be lightly pruned in spring. This stimulates the formation of many lateral branches. In the future, only shoots that thicken the crown are cut off. In addition, sanitary pruning is carried out, removing dry, broken, diseased stems. Once every 5 years, the bushes are rejuvenated, leaving cut shoots 25 centimeters high above the ground. Experienced gardeners do not recommend pruning for the winter.

Preventative treatments

To prevent the appearance of diseases and pests from the root circle, it is necessary to remove dried foliage and plant debris. It is advisable to dig up the soil around the roses in the fall. Fungicides are used to prevent and treat diseases. Insecticides will save you from harmful insects.

Preparing for winter

In the south, ground cover roses can winter safely without shelter. Especially if winter-hardy varieties are planted. In the northern regions, a frame is built over the bushes and covered with lutrasil. If the shoots are long, they are bent to the ground. To prevent the stems from rotting, spruce branches are placed under them.

Measure seven times. Pruning roses

The timing of spring pruning is different for different climatic zones.
But in any case, it must be timely. If you prune roses too early, the buds will begin to grow during warming, but may die if frost returns. You can’t delay either: the bushes will spend energy and nutrition on the formation of new shoots, which will then still have to be pruned. Before pruning, roses are unplanted so that damaged shoots can be cut out at the base of the bush.

Shoot cut. Above is correct, below is incorrect

If you are late and the buds have already sprouted, there is no need to trim the bushes. Let them grow. Limit yourself to sanitary measures: cut out dry, broken and weak branches.

Garden groups such as hybrid tea, floribunda, grandiflora, polyantha roses can grow quickly and produce flowering shoots from the base of the bush, so they need strong and medium pruning. As a rule, 3-5 strong shoots are left on each bush, shortening them by 3-4 buds. But floribunda and grandiflora can be cut a little higher, leaving 4-6 buds, since they are more branched. If there are side shoots on the main stem, they need to be shortened to 1-3 buds.

Miniature roses only undergo sanitary pruning in the spring: all dead and broken shoots are removed, trying to preserve the above-ground part as much as possible.

Small-flowered climbing roses bloom once along the entire length of overwintered shoots. Therefore, in the spring, the shoots are slightly shortened (cutting off 15-20 cm at the very top). And they form, leaving 5-7 of the strongest annual shoots, the rest are cut to the ground. Faded shoots are usually pruned in the summer, but if this has not been done, then they must be cut out in the spring. If there are few young shoots, then the lateral branches of old ones (mostly two years old) are simply shortened (up to 10 cm), and healthy annual shoots are left to their entire length.

Repeatedly blooming climbing large-flowered roses form powerful shoots on which lateral flowering branches grow. Flowers are formed on shoots of the 2nd-5th order. In the spring, all weak and old shoots (over 5 years old) are removed into a ring, that is, cut to the base. After pruning, the shoots of climbing roses are tied to a support.

Climbing roses are more susceptible to shoot burn than others. In the spring, when the shelter is removed, reddish spots appear on the stems of plants, which, growing, ring the shoots. Affected stems have to be cut out entirely, which reduces and sometimes eliminates flowering.

Scrubs are distinguished by strong volumetric growth. In the spring, 3-5 of the strongest evenly spaced shoots are left on the bushes and 6-8 or more well-developed buds are left on them, and the weak shoots are cut into a ring. The goal of annual spring pruning is to shorten branches by a quarter or half, lateral branches by two thirds (leaving 3-5 buds). If the height of the shoot reaches 120 cm, shorten it by 30-60 cm, and if the side branches are 30 cm long, cut them by 10 cm.

Spring pruning of hybrid tea roses Pruning shoots of standard roses

For ground cover roses, regular rejuvenation is important - for this, old shoots are cut off at the very base of the bush. Young shoots are pruned lightly or moderately, depending on the structure of the bushes.

Ground cover roses, creeping along the ground, with long arched shoots, are similar to the group of small-flowered climbing roses. As a rule, when pruning, the maximum length of their shoots is left, since they bloom on last year’s wood. Many experts do not recommend pruning ground cover roses at all, limiting themselves only to sanitary pruning in order to maintain their natural shape.

Most types of antique garden roses bloom profusely without any pruning, but at the same time they grow strongly and become very bushy. The fact is that once-blooming roses cannot be heavily pruned, since the flowers are formed from the upper and middle parts of last year's and older wood. Therefore, pruning is carried out in a light form, thinning and rejuvenating the bushes. This gives them a decorative and compact shape. Start pruning park roses after the buds awaken.

Pruning standard roses depends on which garden group a particular variety is grafted from. Roses from different garden groups grafted onto a standard are pruned in the same way as their bush forms to form a beautiful round crown.

Heavy pruning is used for hybrid tea roses, floribunda, grandiflora, polyantha and miniature roses, light pruning is used for climbing and ground cover roses. The crown of climbing trunks is thinned out, preserving several young strong shoots. In cascading standard roses, which are obtained from ground cover roses, the main shoots (which bloomed last year) are cut out, leaving young replacement shoots. If there are few of them, then the faded shoots are not cut out, but the side branches on them are shortened.

Pruning must be completed before the leaves bloom. To increase breathability, the soil under the roses needs to be dug up. Then the bushes are lightly hilled so that the plant does not dry out. After two weeks, when the buds begin to grow, additional pruning is carried out, removing unnoticed diseased shoots.

Pruning is done with sharp pruning shears 0.5-0.8 cm above a well-developed bud, directed not inward, but outward of the bush. If the cut is made higher above the bud, the wood will begin to die.

The cut should be even and smooth. Thick shoots are cut with a lopper or garden saw. In this case, you need to make sure that there are no torn edges - infection can penetrate through them.

All cuts larger than 1 cm are required! cover with garden pitch or Novikov liquid.

After spring pruning, plants should be sprayed with a 1% solution of copper sulfate (100 g per 10 liters of water) or a 1-3% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

By the way

For regular feeding of roses in the garden and at home, it is convenient to use water-soluble Agricola granules. This universal fertilizer contains a full range of micro- and macroelements that stimulate plant growth and promote intensive flowering. When using Agricola fertilizer, garden roses can more easily withstand winter and spring frosts.

Lyubov Bumbeeva, curator of the rose collection of the GBS RAS

Rules for choosing a place and landing

Rules for planting ground cover roses.

Roses with creeping shoots are considered very undemanding, but several basic factors that will be taken into account when planting a plant will allow you to achieve good bush formation and lush flowering. The development and growth of the bush is influenced by:

light level;
soil slope;
ambient temperature;
soil moisture;
planting density;
soil acidity.

In order for the rose to receive the required amount of light and nutrients, while simultaneously forming a large number of buds, it must be planted in such a way that in the first half of the day the bush is in the sun, and in the hottest time of the day it is shaded by other plants. Placing the bush on soil with a slope of about 10° will create a natural drainage of water, eliminating the need for drainage.

But at the same time, it is undesirable to place bushes next to other massive garden crops: they will not only take moisture and nutrition from the plant, but also unnecessarily shade it. A rose planted in the shade, near the walls of a house, etc., forms shoots without buds, is affected by diseases, becomes weak and faded.

If bushes are planted in flower beds raised 40-50 cm above the soil level, this automatically increases their frost resistance, since, according to the laws of physics, cold air accumulates in low-lying places without affecting the hills.

When planting a bush, great attention must be paid to soil moisture. Roses do not tolerate dampness well, so organizing a gravel-sand cushion in a hole intended for planting will significantly reduce the risk of death and disease.

In this case, it is necessary to take into account the type of soil: loamy soil is considered optimal, creating ideal conditions for transporting oxygen, moisture and nutrients to the roots of the plant. Sandy, rocky, clayey and other heavy soils are not very suitable for planting rosaceae. You can improve the condition of the soil by adding sand, compost, peat, turf soil, rotted chicken or rabbit droppings.

The time for planting rose seedlings depends on climatic conditions: for regions with warm weather, autumn planting is preferable, for areas with cold winters - spring planting. Soil acidity should vary between 5.5 and 6.5 pH.

To prevent weed thickets from forming underneath as the plant grows, experts recommend carefully treating the entire area that the overgrown bush will occupy. The plant is planted in a hole with a depth of 50 to 70 cm. For mass planting, you can dig a trench 50 cm wide. The required depth of the hole is determined as follows: the length of the roots of the planting material + 15 cm. After planting, the seedling must be well watered. Depending on the plant variety, it is not recommended to place more than 1-3 seedlings per 1 m².

Preparation and landing

It is advisable to carry out preparatory activities at least a month before planting the roses. The soil must be dug up, all weeds and their rhizomes must be selected, and also fed with fertilizers containing nitrogen. The composition of the soil should be loose and nutritious, the reaction of the environment should be from 5.5 to 6.5 pH. To alkalize acidic soil, dolomite flour or fluff lime is used. If the reaction is alkaline, superphosphates are added to the soil.

It is best to plant ground cover roses in spring or autumn. For harsh climates, spring planting will provide more benefits so that the plant can take root properly before next winter. If the climate is mild and winters are not so cold, ground cover roses are planted in the fall.

How to land:

The size of the hole is determined by the root system of the seedling. When planting roses in a container, you need to leave a margin of 8-10 centimeters on each side. For plants with an open root system, a space of 40x40 centimeters is usually prepared.
The top layer of fertile soil from the hole is mixed with humus, peat and mineral fertilizers.
The seedling is placed vertically in the hole. The soil surface should be at the level of the root bud. For container seedlings, you can use the top edge of the soil in the pot as a guide.
The hole is filled with pre-prepared soil mixture, compacting it tightly at the roots. It is allowed to spill water on the ground so that there are no air voids inside.
After planting, the plant is well watered, the top layer of soil is mulched with straw, dry grass or peat. This is a mandatory condition, because with further growth of the shoots it will be difficult to care for the root area, and this will protect the plantings from weeds.

Before planting a rose from a container, be sure to water it well so that the earthen ball does not disintegrate. This will prevent injury to the roots and increase the chances of successful rooting. It is better to soak seedlings with an open root system in a stimulating solution for a day. Ground cover roses are planted directly from water, preventing the root shoots from drying out.

Best care tips

Ground cover roses are less demanding than other varieties. This gives a good chance to grow luxurious flowers even for gardening beginners. At the same time, long-term flowering and active growth of bushes can be achieved only if all the “whims” of the garden beauty are fulfilled. To do this, you need to know what conditions are necessary for this plant, as well as useful nuances for successful cultivation.

Secrets of success for ground cover roses:

Fertilizing should only be done the next year after planting. The frequency of adding minerals is determined individually. In general, 5-7 feedings must be used per season. Ground cover roses are also very susceptible to foliar feeding, which can be alternated with conventional ones. In early spring, the bushes are fed with nitrogen fertilizers. For this, rotted manure, humus or ammonium nitrate is used. Before fertilizing, the plant is well watered. Before the formation of buds, sodium humate or potassium sulfate is added. This will give the plant the necessary strength to bloom. During flowering, fertilizers are not applied, this can damage the bush. After flowering, it is necessary to remove old buds from the plant, and then feed it well with potassium and phosphorus complexes. Re-blooming varieties need to use at least two feedings with a break of 10 days. At the end of the season, fertilize three times, the main purpose of which is to give the plant an additional margin of safety for a successful winter. At the end of summer, organic matter is used, after two weeks - phosphorus complexes, after another two - potassium

It is important to finish feeding about a month before the onset of real frost, so the timing can be determined by your climatic region. Roses are also pruned the next year after planting. This stimulates the formation of side shoots and the creation of an attractive bush shape.

The cutting areas must be treated with garden varnish, and the bush itself must be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture to prevent infection of the branches. Approximately once every five years it is recommended to carry out anti-aging pruning of the bush. To do this, all shoots are shortened to 20-25 centimeters, and the middle of the bush is thinned out. The disadvantage is the loss of decorativeness, but the next season the plant will thank the owner with lush flowering and active growth. Watering garden roses must be done with plenty of pre-settled water. On average, each bush will need 10 liters of water. At the same time, waterlogging is not allowed, as a result of which the plant can rot and become sick. Loosening the bush is desirable, but difficult to do for old plants. The root area must be mulched and cared for whenever possible. It is more advisable to simply spray and water heavily overgrown bushes, and loosen them when pruning or fertilizing.

The video below will tell you a lot of useful information about growing ground cover roses.

Features of pruning for different types of roses

Floribunda roses

The purpose of the procedure is continuous flowering during the growing season. The optimal method is combined pruning: some stems are pruned lightly, others heavily, to stimulate the growth of basal shoots and obtain later flowering.

In the fall, the stems of the purchased rose bush are shortened before planting, and diseased, damaged and simply long roots are pruned. In mid-February - early March, the main shoots are shortened by three to five buds, the remaining height of the shoots is up to 20 cm. Sick and weak growth is also removed. New shoots will appear in April-May. In September-October, the main stems are pinched and all non-flowering, non-lignified shoots are removed.

From mid-February to mid-March next year, diseased and dead parts of the bush are removed. Basal branches are cut by a third, middle-aged stems by three to five buds, lateral branches by two to three buds. In October, the main stems are pinched and non-flowering shoots are removed.

In the third year and subsequent periods, rejuvenating pruning is carried out in the fall. In addition to sanitary treatment, all annual basal stems are shortened by about a third of their length.

Polyantha roses

The flowers of this shrub bloom on the shoots of the current and last year. When planting, all weak stems must be removed, and strong stems must be trimmed into three to five buds. The purpose of pruning is to make the flowering bush as compact as possible and rid it of thin growth. Diseased and damaged roots of a rose purchased in the spring are pruned, and after planting in a permanent place of growth, all weak growth is removed, this frees up space for new, strong shoots. During the summer season, faded flowers are removed to preserve nutrients for the remaining ones. At the end of the growing season, all flowering shoots are pinched.

In the second year and the subsequent period in the spring, all strong shoots are shortened by a third of their length, dead and weak shoots are removed, and the thickened center is thinned out. Weakly growing bushes are pruned short in the spring: two or three buds are left on strong shoots and one or two on weak ones. With this method of care, the rose begins to branch well and produces shoots that bloom in the current season. Adult bushes of polyanthus roses should not have more than eight shoots. Vigorous varieties should be lightly pruned in the first year. In the subsequent period, weak and old branches are removed.

Miniature roses

The purpose of pruning this type of rose is to remove strong shoots that can disrupt the symmetry of the bush. The long shoots of the purchased plant are shortened by three to five buds, and weak growth is removed. During the warm period, the bushes are cleared of dying inflorescences in time. In March of next year, damaged and weak shoots are removed, strong shoots are shortened by three to six buds.

Park roses

The purpose of the procedure is to stimulate the formation of new growth and replace non-flowering shoots. Some varieties of unpretentious shrubs bloom in June-July, while remontant species bloom until late autumn. Some park roses produce colorful fruits. Dying inflorescences, in this case, are not removed. Four rules of pruning:

when planting a park rose, no manipulations are carried out with the pruning shears, only damaged roots and weak shoots are removed;
in the summer, such a plant should have a well-formed skeleton; only diseased and dried growth is cut out;
wilted flowers need to be removed, such pruning promotes the formation of new shoots;
in the fall, all strong growth is shortened by 5 - 10 cm. The procedure stimulates the formation of new shoots, and along with the thin and tender tops, a potential source of infection is removed: it is on these parts of the plant that powdery mildew most often settles.

climbing roses

The choice of winter pruning method for liana-shaped and climbing roses depends on the varietal of the plant. Climbing small-flowered roses do not need pruning at all, large-flowered roses are shortened by a third of the length, other types - by half.

Ground cover roses

Ground cover roses also do not need pruning in the fall. You just need to cut out shoots that have already lost their decorative effect, as well as broken, diseased and immature branches. During flowering, it is necessary to remove some of the buds. To achieve flowering along the entire length of the stem, the bush must be placed on a horizontal support or the shoots must be pinned to the ground. After planting, weak side shoots are removed.

Standard roses

For standard roses, the method chosen is based on the group characteristics of the grafted rose. The varieties need good support; their crown is rather heavy. The initial pruning of the bush is the same as for other species. In subsequent years, they do heavy or moderate pruning, trying to get an even and symmetrical crown.

Methods for pruning different types of roses.