The Autumn Beauty raspberry is considered an excellent variety. The plants are remontant, mid-ripening, and bear berries for a long period of time. Caring for the crop is easy. It produces fruit in abundance. Also, it takes root well in the south of the country. Due to the early spring and long warm autumn, you can get berries from two harvest waves.
Raspberries were bred by scientific breeders Kulagina, Evdokimenko, led by Kazakov. Academician Kazakov worked on culture for 40 years. He created 20 varieties. All work was carried out within the walls of the Kokinsky strong point.
Autumn beauty, like “Firebird”, “Bryansk Miracle”, “Ruby Necklace”, “Hercules” can be planted in the middle regions of the country. She is usually interested in small farms and amateur gardeners. Due to the extended period of fruiting, the berry can be used for a long time.
Characteristics of the raspberry variety Autumn Beauty
The bushes are one meter in diameter. Height from 1.1 to 1.3 m. Plants with strong and highly branched stems. The root zones contain many shoots. The branches are long and fruitful.
Remontant raspberries grow in the middle regions, in the Moscow region. Thornless autumn beauty. Therefore, care and picking of berries is easy.
As for the characteristics of the fruits, they are from 4 to 5 g.
The fruits are large, ruby-red in color, and have a round-conical structure. They have a good sweetness, along with a rich, pleasant aroma. You can find many duplicate copies. These are genetic consequences. The berries can remain on the stems for a long time. They don't crumble. They are torn off the stalks without effort.
When purchasing seedlings, always evaluate their characteristic features, regarding winter hardiness, attitude to pests, etc.
Raspberry Autumn beauty takes weather conditions calmly. The stems are not frozen because they are completely cut off at the end of the autumn season. Roots are not afraid of cold weather. Raspberries are prepared for winter using mulching:
- manure;
- humus;
- straw.
This is the main protection against freezing.
More on the topic: Raspberry variety Ruby giant
History of variety selection
The raspberry variety Autumn Beauty was developed by Academician I.V. Kazakov and his colleagues V.L. Kulagina, S.N. Evdokimenko. He devoted almost 40 years of his life to this culture. He is the author of 20 varieties. Selection work was carried out on the basis of the Kokinsky stronghold of NIZISNP.
Autumn beauty, like other Kazakova varieties (Firebird, Bryanskoe Miracle, Ruby Necklace, Hercules), grows well in the middle zone. For large producers, such raspberries are of no interest, but for small farms and amateur gardeners, by the way. Extended fruiting allows you to eat fresh berries for a long time and store them for future use.
What harvests does the Autumn Beauty raspberry produce and how does it bear fruit?
Remontant plants were bred in three groups.
They include:
- to the early ones;
- late;
- mid-season.
Autumn beauty was sent to the second group. The first wave is collected in mid-August. Then, gradual ripening, until the last days of September. From 5 to 7 kg are collected from one plant.
If you picked branches with unripe berries in late autumn, place them in water in your living room and they will become ripe.
The largest harvests occur in mid-September. Usually from the 10th to the 15th.
Repair raspberry. August
Hello! Today I will talk about some varieties of remontant raspberries growing on my site. The berries of remontant raspberries ripen on the shoots of the current year. Advantages of remontant raspberries:
- ease of care - no need to bend and cover the stems for the winter
- does not require chemical treatments against pests and diseases
- early-fruiting - the harvest can be obtained in the year of planting if planted early in the spring
- high yield
- extended fruiting period - from the end of July until severe frosts
- berries of high quality and dessert taste
Remontant raspberries, like traditional two-year-old ones, come in different ripening periods. Early varieties begin to ripen in late July - early August, middle ones - from mid-August, late - from late August - early September until frost. If you plant several bushes of different ripening periods, the harvest can be harvested for two months, until the beginning of October. Before severe frosts, I cut off the branches with unripe berries with pruning shears, and they sit at home in a jar of water for another two weeks, gradually ripening. Dried flowers and leaves can be used to make a healthy tea.
The very first to ripen, at the end of July, are the Inaccessible .
The berries of Inaccessible are large and very large, dark crimson in color, sweet, with delicate juicy pulp, not very transportable. Productivity is high with good care. The bush is medium-sized, produces many offspring, shoots of medium thickness, few thorns. It multiplies quickly.
If at the end of August you cut off the fruit-bearing part of the shoot, about half of the stem, water and feed the bush, then long fruit branches begin to grow on the remaining part of the stem. In this way, fruiting can be extended until frost and an additional harvest can be obtained.
Bryansk miracle is an early variety.
The Bryansk miracle begins to ripen in early August. Its berries are red, large and very large, elongated-conical in shape, dense, transportable, with a sweet and sour taste. Productivity is high. The bush is medium-sized, the shoots are of medium thickness, there are not many thorns, the fruit branches are long. It produces few replacement shoots and shoots.
Golden Everest is an early variety.
Golden Everest begins to ripen in early August, its fruits are light yellow, medium and large, sweet, transportable. Productivity is high. The bush is medium-sized, the shoots are straight, thick, with thorns, the fruit branches are short. It doesn't produce much growth.
Autumn beauty is a mid-early variety.
The first berries of Autumn Beauty begin to ripen in early August. The fruits are red, large, sweet with the taste of wild hawthorn-leaved raspberries, dense, transportable. The variety is productive. The bush is low, up to 1.5 m, the stems are of medium thickness, the fruit branches are long. It produces enough shoots and reproduces quickly. Atlant is a mid-season variety.
Atlant is one of the best varieties for growing raspberries for sale. Its berries begin to ripen closer to mid-August. They are red in color, large, sweet and sour, have an attractive elongated conical shape, dense, and transportable. Productivity is high. The bush is medium-sized, the stems are straight, thick, with thorns, fruit branches are of medium length. It produces few replacement shoots and shoots.
Polana is a mid-season variety.
Polana's berries begin to ripen in mid-August; they are red, large, sweet and sour, dense, and transportable. Productivity is high. Bushes up to 1.5 m high, stems of medium thickness, with thorns, erect, fruit branches of medium length. There are 5-7 replacement shoots, it multiplies quickly.
Ottom Bliz is a mid-season variety.
The berries begin to ripen in mid-August and ripen until the end of September. The fruits are medium-sized, red, sweet, dense, transportable. Productivity is high. The bush is medium-sized, shoots of medium thickness, with thorns, fruit branches of medium length. It produces a lot of shoots and reproduces quickly.
The variety without a name is mid-season.
I bought this variety at the market and don’t know the name. The berries begin to ripen closer to mid-August; they are dark red in color, medium in size, sweet and sour taste, dense, and transportable. Productivity is average. The bush is low-growing, 1.2-1.3 m high, the stems are straight, of medium thickness, and there are not many thorns. There are 5-7 replacement shoots; it produces very few shoots.
There are a lot of technologies for cultivating raspberries, I’ll tell you about those that I have tested.
1. Cultivation of raspberries in the form of a clump. This is the easiest way to grow. About 6 years ago, I planted two seedlings of remontant raspberries of the Apricot variety at a distance of 1.5 m from each other. Over the course of several years, it grew to the size of a small clearing. I simply cut off the excess shoots with pruning shears. This method is suitable for those who cannot devote much time to care and who have a lot of land. The yield with this growing method is average. Varieties should be selected that do not require special care. 2. Belt cultivation method. To plant raspberries, I dig a trench approximately 60 cm wide and 1.5 shovels deep. I put garden waste at the bottom - shredded branches from trimming shrubs, dried sunflower stems, etc. I mix part of the excavated soil with organic and mineral fertilizers and pour it onto the stems. I pour about 10 cm thick soil on top, water it well and leave it like that for a while. Trenches for planting must be prepared in advance, so that the soil settles. I place the seedlings in the middle of the trench after 60-80 cm, depending on the variety, and cover them with soil without fertilizers and water them. I mulch the top with rotted sawdust. Over time, the raspberries will grow and occupy the entire width of the trench. I tie the stems to stakes several at a time or stretch twine between the stakes in one or two rows. 3. Growing raspberries in separate bushes. Varieties that produce little growth are suitable for this method, for example Atlant, Bryanskoe Miracle, Shugana, etc. The pits are located in any order, in a way that is convenient for you, the main thing is that the bushes are in the sun. Before planting, I dig a medium-sized hole, fill it with fertile soil, with the addition of organic and mineral fertilizers, plant 1-2 seedlings in the center, water well and mulch the soil. In the future, caring for raspberries is standard. The advantages of this method are that the bush is illuminated from all sides by the sun, so the harvest ripens earlier, the berries are larger, and it is convenient to care for and pick the berries. I tie the stems to stakes. You can plant remontant raspberries in spring and autumn.
What are the advantages and disadvantages
Do not forget that the Autumn Beauty raspberry needs to be groomed and it will thank you with its responsiveness. Thanks to a good agricultural background, you will always have good harvests.
And besides productivity:
- winter-hardy;
- drought-resistant;
- with prolonged fruiting;
- without thorns;
- does not fall off;
- does not dry out in sunlight;
- moderately produces root shoots.
But:
- without trellises it will not be able to withstand the weight of the berries;
- will not survive without fertilizing, heat, humidity, light.
- gardeners rated the taste 4 points.
Important!
Remontant culture does not reproduce easily. Reluctantly gives out offspring. Because it directs all its energy to the development of stems and berries.
To get more harvest, you need to select the right places and plant according to agrotechnical laws. Plantings are done in such a way that the bushes do not provide shade to each other.
Pruning as a mandatory step before preparing for wintering
Old and diseased branches need to be removed for several reasons:
- in an unkempt bush, various pests often gather, destroying the buds and the shoots themselves;
- if the garden crop is not subjected to the procedure, the bush will go wild, the berries will become smaller, and the number of seeds in them will increase;
- in an overgrown raspberry field it is difficult to pick berries, care for the plants themselves, weed and perform other necessary procedures.
Types of pruning:
- Full. In this case, all last year's branches are completely removed. The raspberries are getting younger, and the quality of the harvest is improving significantly. But you will have to wait a long time for the berries, and there will be much fewer of them than usual.
- Partial. With this method, you need to leave the strongest branches, removing the worst and woodiest ones. Then the bush will delight you with a regular harvest.
- Double pruning of raspberries. Young branches are pruned to 10-25 cm. This allows the bush to become denser. This method requires consistency. The plants should be pruned the first time in the fall, and the next time in the spring.
Recommended methods:
- standard (remove branches that were actively bearing fruit);
- thinning (for especially thickened raspberries, cut off young branches);
- creating a form (shortening excessively tall shoots in varieties that differ in bush height);
- health (trimming of woody branches, broken branches, etc.).
Trimming times:
- Upon harvesting the last harvest, from mid-August to the end of September.
- Upon completion of autumn work, at the end of autumn, taking into account weather conditions. The basic rule: a stable sub-zero temperature should not yet be established.
When pruning raspberries, you need to use high-quality, cleaned pruning shears and wear gloves. It is advisable to disinfect the instrument before doing this.
It is important to know: shoots have a fruiting cycle of two years, so branches that bear fruit will not bear berries the next year, but will take nutrients from the young shoots. Basic Rules:
Basic Rules:
First remove broken, diseased, dried shoots. Prune branches that have had multiple harvests. Remove thin and weak branches. You can trim the main branches by one quarter. Two-year-old branches should be trimmed at the very base.
It is important that the cut edge does not stick out from the ground, otherwise pests will gather on this part. The shoots that have not had time to grow must be completely removed. When removing branches, control the distance between plants. Raspberries require a lot of light for a quality harvest.
The distance between bushes should be at least 55 cm. On one raspberry bush it is enough to leave 8-10 active shoots. All branches of one plant must be aligned in height. Cuts can be treated with garden varnish.
How to choose suitable places
Try to keep Autumn Beauty always light and surrounded by fertile soil.
These are the demands she makes:
- protection from the north wind;
- not shaded areas;
- fertilizers
Be sure to flavor:
- humus;
- vegetable compost;
- high peat, per 1 m2 from 2 to 3 buckets of organic matter.
More on the topic: Gallery of decorative types of raspberries
All together with complex elements (“Kemira universal”, “Growth”), or mineral ones in the form of:
- superphosphate;
- potassium sulfate.
You can simply fertilize with ash and organic matter.
Raspberries will develop well after:
- green manure (white mustard, lupine, phacelia);
- eggplant;
- tomatoes;
- potatoes.
Standard
Standard raspberry varieties are bred specifically to make harvesting easier. Unlike classic varieties, standard varieties produce one or just a few low shoots, which are easy to care for and give them the desired growth vector.
Standard varieties are almost always high-yielding, but difficult to care for.
Galaxy
The most famous standard variety that bears strong and large berries.
Perhaps the only disadvantage of the variety is the poor tolerance of fruit transportation and the short shelf life of the harvested crop.
Sturdy
A standard variety with medium ripening periods (usually in mid-summer).
Fruiting may occur until the end of autumn.
For Russia, one can evaluate such qualities as the frost resistance of “Krepysh” and fairly strong immunity.
Fairy tale
Suitable for connoisseurs of mid-season varieties.
The main feature of the Skazka raspberry is its highest yield - you can harvest up to 12 kg from each bush.
Moreover, the harvested crop lies well and does not deteriorate during transportation.
Planting raspberries Autumn beauty
Use rows or nests for planting Autumn Beauty raspberries. Planting holes are dug with a distance of 0.7 m from each other. Between rows from 2 to 2.5 m. The earth is dug up with a depth of 25 to 35 cm.
Perennial weeds are weeded along with their roots. Fertilizers are applied. Then holes 30 x 35 cm (depth x width) or planting grooves are dug.
All root collars must be at ground level. Then there will be no problems with the development of shoots.
Adhere to the norm for deepening the root collars. So that the formation of stems begins on time. And make sure that they do not stick out and prevent summer damping and winter freezing.
Autumn care for raspberries
Raspberry is a perennial deciduous subshrub of the Rosaceae family. Both in the wild and in the garden, this unassuming crop grows and bears fruit even in the shade, along the fence.
However, caring for raspberries is not as easy as it seems. You need to tinker with the raspberry plant, create favorable conditions for growth and fruiting.
Early autumn
are cut out in September . Apply mineral or organic fertilizers.
Raspberries are treated with Bordeaux mixture. The drug contains copper sulfate and gypsum, the suspension adheres well, is slowly washed off, and acts as a fungicide.
Autumn spraying of raspberries is carried out on the leaves from top to bottom so that all shoots turn bluish. Treatment is also carried out in the tree trunk area.
Late autumn
At the end of the season, young shoots are carefully bent to the ground and fixed so as not to damage the stems. In winter, the raspberry tree will be covered with snow. Snow cover will protect the shoots and root system from freezing.
How to care further
Feed, water regularly, mulch and Autumn Beauty raspberries will give you delicious berries in large quantities.
Feed:
- mullein 1:10 in early July;
- nitrogen fertilizers in the first halves of June-July;
- mineral fats, with phosphorus, potassium, microelements, in the 2nd half of July-August.
The rhizomes of plants are close to the surface, so they need to be watered regularly, but without stagnating water. If this happens, the small suction roots will die off.
Loosen the ground as carefully as possible. 1 m in diameter from the centers of the plants and with a depth of up to 5 cm inclusive. Mulch the soil (peat, humus).
For summer green work, your actions such as:
- pruning excess or weak growth;
- work to remove root shoots.
Important!
Leave 3 to 6 strong raspberry stems per 1 m2
The Autumn Beauty is tied up twice. When the stems reach a height of 30 cm. And when they reach 1 m.
- When the first autumn frosts arrive, then all above-ground parts of the plants are cut off.
- Then the raspberries are cleaned.
- And everything ends with moisture-discharge irrigation.
More on the topic: Remontant raspberry Old Gold
Growing and care
To obtain a decent result, raspberries need to be provided with high-quality care.
Watering
One of the primary roles in caring for raspberries is played by timely watering. Autumn beauty requires a large amount of moisture, which will ensure good growth of the rhizome and above-ground parts. But there is no need to overdo it, since excess water can lead to rotting of the shoots and the development of diseases. Particular attention should be paid to watering during flowering and fruiting of the bushes; when watering, the soil should be moistened to a depth of at least 30 cm. You can install drip irrigation or dig trenches along the raspberry rows through which to let water flow. It is better not to use water from a well or tap, because... in hot weather, cold water will stress the plants. Let the water settle in the container first.
Do not forget about abundant spring watering, it will provide raspberries with good winter hardiness.
Top dressing
If fertilizers were added to the soil during planting, then for the first 2 years the Autumn Beauty does not need to be fed. In subsequent years, it is necessary to apply fertilizers according to the scheme described in our separate article on fertilizing raspberries. In short, in the spring, fertilizers with a high nitrogen content are needed so that raspberries actively grow green mass. Urea or mullein infusion will do. In summer, and especially in autumn, nitrogen fertilizers are abandoned in favor of potassium and phosphorus. Fertilizing the soil can be alternated with foliar tillage.
Preparing for winter.
Most often, Autumn Beauty is grown as an annual crop; in this case, the stems are completely removed and only the root part needs to be protected from frost. For these purposes, mulch with a layer of 10 cm is suitable. Peat, humus, straw, sawdust, crushed bark, and dry foliage are used as mulch.
The stems must be cut flush with the ground. Do not leave posts, they can become a breeding ground for diseases and a “house” for pests.
If you plan to grow Autumn Beauty like ordinary summer raspberries, then the stems of the first year must be tilted to the ground, cross-tied together and covered with non-woven material. There is also a large number of positive reviews from gardeners about covering with spruce branches.
How to deal with diseases and pests, preventive measures
Autumn Beauty raspberries can be affected by raspberry beetles if they are adjacent to regular raspberries. While the crop has not yet bloomed, treat the stems with Fitosporin and Agrovertin. These are insecticides.
If you apply a large amount of fertilizers that contain nitrogen, aphids or caterpillars will appear. Use phosphorus, potassium and insecticidal additives. Fight insects:
- "Confidor".
- “Fufaon.”
- “Arrivo.”
Important!
Don't forget about garlic tinctures with laundry soap. Spray raspberry bushes with this tincture after 2 weeks.
Varieties suitable for different regions
Raspberries are a popular crop in Russia, not only in private gardening. The Russian Federation is the world leader in harvesting this berry.
In this regard, numerous bred varieties were created, including with a focus on different climatic conditions in different regions of the vast territory of the USSR, and then Russia.
For Siberia
In Siberia, most attention is paid to the ability of raspberry varieties to withstand severe frosts in winter.
Ogonyok Siberian
Mid-season variety with medium-sized berries.
Fruits in August-September.
Gift of Siberia
A dessert raspberry variety that bears fruit towards the end of summer.
The berries grow large on it.
Barnaul
Quite a fast-growing variety with excellent ability to survive and reproduce
But the berries on it are small and more suitable for processing into jam or other preservation.
For the Urals
Gardeners in the Urals also select varieties that can withstand frost in the winter, but also pay attention to the strength of the immune system, since in the hot summer in the Southern Urals, raspberries can be attacked by pests or diseases.
Indian summer
A very unpretentious variety that can easily survive both heat and severe frosts.
It grows compactly and quite consistently produces a yield of 4-5 kg from each bush.
Unattainable
The variety begins to bear fruit towards the end of summer, and the fruiting period is short.
However, most of the berries ripen almost at the same time, which is convenient for harvesting.
A very frost-resistant variety.
Which also bears fruit quite abundantly, with large, aromatic, sweet berries.
The average bush yield is up to 5 kg.
For Krasnodar region
Raspberries are one of the few crops that do not like extreme heat. However, if you grow it in shade and partial shade, then the Krasnodar summer will allow you to get more than one harvest of high-quality berries. In the south, you can give preference to remontant varieties; you can pick raspberries all summer and most of the fall without any problems.
Heritage
Fairly small-fruited raspberries.
However, collection from a bush rarely falls below 4 kg.
This is enough to really pick a lot of raspberries in the southern heat.
Apricot
A yellow-fruited crop, the main feature of which is the presence of a large number of resins and esters in its composition.
It makes especially fragrant jams, salads, and preserves.
Crane
An unpretentious raspberry that is not afraid even of direct sunlight.
It is only important to water this variety sufficiently.
The fruits of "Crane" are small, but are well stored and remain on the branches for a long time after ripening.
For the Middle Band
Pride of Russia
The most popular variety, with large (up to 12 grams) berries, abundant fruiting (up to 5-6 kg per bush) and strong immunity.
Although care requires, first of all, tying up the branches, and secondly, feeding the bushes every year.
More information in the article on our website.
Ruby giant
An undemanding variety, the main feature of which is considered to be a yield of up to 9-10 kg. from the bush.
Large berries have a sweet taste, store well and are easy to transport.
Elegant
It grows in fairly neat, non-spreading bushes.
Harvesting such raspberries is easy.
The warmer and longer the summer, the greater and better the yield of the variety.
For the Leningrad region
Gardening conditions in the Leningrad region and in the north-west of Russia are generally similar to those that are typical for the central zone of the country. But it is advisable to select varieties so that they have enough time to ripen in a relatively short summer.
Cumberland
The berries are colored black and weigh only 2-3 grams. each.
But the overall yield is amazingly high: sometimes more than 10 kg are harvested from a bush.
Brusvyana
A variety close to the classics that takes root well in forests and semi-steppes.
It bears fruit with firm, strong berries that store well.
Giant
Frost-resistant variety, but its main feature is the especially large size of the berries.
Even in the conditions of the northern regions, you can grow raspberries up to 25 grams. each.
Reviews
Gardeners fell in love with these plants because remontant varieties are very different in both care and yield from ordinary raspberry varieties.
Vladislava Miroshnichenko, 45 years old from Astrakhan.
We purchased the Autumn Beauty to generate income from it. Our customers speak very highly of it. She is very popular. We always sell in large volumes. We use chicken manure for fertilizer.
We have 2 rows of bushes. Without a garter, raspberries will feel bad. You have to tie them to trellises with structures like this. All rows have two posts and three rows of wire between these posts.
While the bushes are not blooming, we give the raspberries mullein (solution 1:10). We collect berries in August and September. We prune everything in the fall.
Svetlana Cherednyakova, 40 years old from Stavropol.
Everyone praises these berries. But they didn’t seem very good to me. The taste is kind of watery. We consume them in the fall. But mostly in the summer we eat others. We feed raspberries in early March. For this we use mineral fertilizers. To prevent fungi from growing, we treat it with copper sulfate. One Autumn Beauty bush gives us about 7 kg of berries.
Agricultural technology
Remontant raspberries require adherence to basic agrotechnical practices, which differ from the care of conventional summer varieties.
The plant can produce two harvests, but many gardeners prefer to shape the plant by pruning only for autumn harvest. In this case, it is possible to obtain a larger number of large berries than from a plant with summer and autumn fruit ripening.
Site selection
The culture requires good lighting and nutrition, and the absence of a close level of groundwater from the surface of the planting soil. The minimum distance from water to the soil surface should be 1.5 m.
Check out
Compatibility of raspberries with other plants, what should not be planted with. Usually, raspberries are placed in rows (ribbons), however, growing bushes between the rows of fruit trees is undesirable.
Plants must be located as far as possible from tomatoes, potatoes and strawberries, since the crops have “common” pests and the same diseases.
A crop can grow in one place for over 10 years, but the optimal period until characteristic “soil fatigue” is 6–8 years.
The preferred type of soil is fertile and light; acidic soil should be neutralized with limestone or fluff (4–6 kg per 1 m²). It is advisable to fertilize the soil by adding 2 buckets of humus, superphosphate and potassium sulfate (1 cup of each mineral fertilizer) per 1 m² of soil.
Planting and care
Planting raspberry seedlings is possible in spring and autumn. The optimal time is considered to be from mid-September to mid-October, then the raspberries will have time to take root well. The combination of autumn humidity and moderately warm air ensures good survival rate. Spring is often dry and hot, especially in the southern regions, which can significantly complicate the process.
How to choose good seedlings
It is best to purchase high-quality planting material that exactly matches the desired variety in special nurseries or trusted garden centers.
Important! A seedling with an open root system should be kept wrapped in a damp cloth until planting!
Signs of a healthy seedling are:
- developed fibrous root system;
- root length - 15–20 cm;
- ripened 1–3 shoots 5–8 mm thick.
Landing technology
Before planting, seedlings should be shortened to 20–30 cm and freed from leaves. If possible, the roots are dipped in a mixture of mullein and clay, to which it is recommended to add the drug “Kornevin”.
Raspberries can be planted using trench or bush methods. Remontant varieties are usually planted in separate holes, placing them in one row. In this case, the distance between rows should be 1.5-2 m, and between plants in a row an interval of 50–70 cm will be sufficient.
Did you know? Anthocyanins provide the red color of raspberries
-
organic compounds that are also responsible for the purple, black and pink colors of plants.
The shade of the pulp depends on the acidity of the soil and may change as the fruit ripens. The average depth of the hole is 60 cm with dimensions 60x60 cm, which is slightly larger than for ordinary raspberries (due to a more massive root system, which is closer to the rod type).
The landing process occurs according to the following scheme:
- At the bottom of the hole I form a cone of soil.
- On a hill, the root system of the seedling is straightened.
- The plant is covered with soil and carefully compacted to the level of the root collar.
- The planting is watered abundantly, then the tree trunk circle is mulched.
Watering and fertilizing
A sufficient amount of moisture is extremely important for the successful cultivation of raspberries, but stagnation of water can cause rotting of all parts of the bush and the appearance of various diseases. During the flowering and subsequent fruiting phases, the soil should be moist to a depth of 30 cm.
On average, the plant is watered once a week, and in dry summers it may be needed 3 times. It is advisable to use distilled water. In the fall, it is necessary to carry out moisture-recharging irrigation, which will help the plant cope with the winter cold.
Important! Mulching the plantings with humus, peat or grass clippings will help maintain moisture and protect the soil from drying out.
Timely fertilizing is the key to a bountiful raspberry harvest. The crop is most sensitive to the content of nitrogen and potassium in the soil. If the planting pit has been well fertilized, then for the first three growing seasons the plant will only need nitrogen fertilizers, which are applied in the spring at the rate of 80–100 g per m².
To increase productivity, during the ripening period you can use mullein diluted 4-5 times. One bucket of this solution is enough to feed 4–6 bushes. To ensure next year's harvest, the plant should also be fertilized in September, when flower buds begin to form. To do this, dig furrows 20 cm deep, about 30 cm away from the bush, and add 40 g of potassium salt and 60 g of superphosphate (per 1 bush).
Also read how to feed raspberries in the spring for a good harvest.
Using trellises
The autumn beauty has a fairly compact size and, in principle, can be grown without a garter. However, a bountiful harvest can bend the shoots of the plant, and additional support will help you care for and pick raspberries with greater comfort.
If the raspberries are planted as separate bushes, you can tie them to a stake driven into the center. The shoots are fixed in two places: at a height of 50–60 cm from the surface of the earth and at a distance of 15–20 cm from the top. A fan garter is also used, in which several stakes are driven between the plants and the shoots are tied in the form of a fan on different sides.
Trellis are used for strip planting. For this design, stakes are driven in at intervals of 5–10 m and 2 transverse strips are secured to them, at a distance of 50–60 cm and 120–140 cm from the ground. The bottom bar is made about 30–40 cm long, and the top bar is 70–90 cm long. A wire is attached to these bars, on which the shoots are then fixed. The trellis provides better illumination of the berries and simplifies their picking.
Disease and pest control
The variety is quite resistant to most diseases and pests, however, errors in agricultural technology can cause the following problems:
- growth, in which many small shoots with chlorotic foliage appear, and a year after the onset of the disease, fruiting of the bush stops;
- curly visible on shoots that slow down their development, the foliage becomes hard and corrugated, while the berries become deformed and become sour;
- mosaic It is carried by aphids and is already visible in the spring, appearing as specks on young foliage. Infected bushes develop poorly and produce low-quality crops.
Viral diseases quickly spread throughout the raspberry field. The optimal method of control, in this case, is to remove the infected specimen, and for prevention it is imperative to combat vector pests.
Aphids, leafhoppers, mites and other insects found on raspberries are sprayed with natural remedies (for example, onion or garlic infusions) or modern insecticides are used (before the flowering phase).
To combat fungal diseases (rust, didimella, anthracnose, etc.), sanitary pruning and spring treatment of shoots with 4% Bordeaux mixture are necessary.
During the growing season, a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture is used, and the treatment is repeated three times:
- with shoot growth of 15–20 cm;
- before the buds open;
- after flowering.
Also find out how to propagate remontant raspberries.
Pruning and wintering
Growing remontant raspberries requires special pruning. During the season, excess root growth is removed in order to preserve the plant’s strength for a full harvest.
Depending on the desired number of fruitings, raspberries are pruned according to one of the following schemes:
- for one autumn harvest, the Autumn Beauty bush is cut at the root, and the root part is mulched with straw, dry leaves or peat (a layer of about 10 cm);
- To collect berries in summer and autumn, shoots of the first year are left to overwinter, removing only damaged or dry parts. In April, when it is clear at what level the living buds are, the branches are shortened to this point. In this case, there is no need to trim the top of a healthy shoot, because remontant raspberries form berries in the upper part of the branches.
For successful wintering, the shoots are bent so that a layer of snow protects the buds from frost. It is necessary to protect the root collar from possible stagnation of water during the thaw period, for which the soil topography under the plants must be leveled.
Important! Before wintering, it is necessary to remove leaves from the branches by running along the shoot from bottom to top. If you direct actions from top to bottom, the buds in the leaf axils will be damaged!
