Planting roses in autumn - step-by-step instructions for beginners

Planting roses in open ground is not an easy task, especially for a novice gardener. In this article we will tell you in detail how to do it correctly in order to grow a beautiful rose garden yourself.

The most suitable time for autumn planting roses is from mid-September to early October. Plants planted during this period manage to take root well before the onset of frost and quickly begin to grow in the spring. This primarily applies to regions where the winter is quite mild. In autumn, the earth is well warmed up, there is enough rainfall, so the seedlings develop better than when planting roses in the spring.

Preparing seedlings

If you purchased a seedling with an open root system, soak it in water a day before planting. Then remove the leaves, using a sharp pruner, cut out all the damaged roots, cut off the slightly rotten ones to a healthy place, shorten the above-ground part to a length of 30 cm. Also remove the buds that are located below the grafting site, since wild shoots will grow from them.

Then spray the seedling with 3% iron sulfate, dip the roots into clay mixed with mullein in a 2:1 ratio. This will protect the rose from diseases and pests.

Carefully inspect the rose seedling. It must have at least three well-developed, intact shoots. Saplings with an open root system should have branched roots and many small roots.

Landing dates

It is very important to choose the right time for transplanting and planting roses.
It is not recommended to delay this process too much, because the plants must have time to take root in the new place. The timing of autumn planting of roses depends on the weather forecast. Of course, weather forecasters often make mistakes, but it’s worth listening to the reports.

Important! It is not recommended to plant on a stormy, windy day, or immediately after heavy rainfall.

If roses are transplanted too early, the plants will begin to produce new buds and waste energy on growing shoots, which will significantly weaken the plants before the winter period.

Optimal timing for transplanting roses:

Important! You should not start replanting roses until the temperature drops to +10C.

The ideal temperature for rooting rose bushes varies from +10C to +15C, but you should make sure that the night temperature does not fall below +5C. At this temperature, plants intensively grow roots, and the buds remain dormant.

Planting roses in autumn in 6 steps

1. Dig a hole 40 cm in diameter and 50-70 cm deep.

2. Place drainage from broken bricks, pebbles or expanded clay at the bottom if the soil in the area is heavy; or lay a layer of clay 7 cm thick if the soil is sandy. Pour fertile soil on top.

3. Place the seedling on it, carefully straightening the roots.

4. Fill the remaining space with soil dug out of the hole or with a previously prepared soil mixture (see the section “Preparing soil for roses”), mixing it with 1-2 cups of ash.

The root collar of the seedling or the grafting site should be 5 cm below the surface of the ground, and for standard roses - 10 cm.

5. Lightly compact the soil and water generously. To better soak the water, it is better to do this in several passes. In total, the liquid consumption should be 1-2 buckets per bush.

6. To prevent the roots of the plant from freezing during autumn frosts, cover the seedlings with a layer of dry peat 15-20 cm thick. This will also help retain moisture in the soil. After two weeks, slightly level the peat hill.

When planting flowers in groups, please note: the distance between bushes of park roses should be 75-90 cm. Polyantha, hybrid tea and floribunda roses should be planted at a distance of 30-60 cm. And when planting climbing and standard roses, the distance between bushes should be increased to 1 m .

How to choose a place and soil for planting roses

When planting a rose, both the planting site and the soil on which it will grow are important. When choosing a place for planting and preparing the soil, it is necessary to take into account the preferences of the plant. Rose is demanding of light, heat and moisture.

In the shade the plant gets sick and blooms weakly. Although the rose loves sunlight, in the midday heat it needs shading so that the flowers do not fade. In addition, the bush needs protection from the wind, which can not only bend, but also damage the branches. The close occurrence of groundwater is detrimental to the roots.

Therefore, roses prefer fertile, loose, well-drained soil. Loams with the addition of river sand are most suitable for planting seedlings. On sandy and sandy loam soils in the summer heat, the roots of young plants may overheat and dry out.

Fertility is important for the future flowering of a rose. With a lack of organic and mineral fertilizers, its buds become smaller and may not bloom at all. If the soil on the site is depleted, a nutritious soil mixture of chernozem and organic fertilizers (compost or humus) in a 1:1 ratio should be prepared several weeks before planting.

Mineral fertilizers in the fall should be applied immediately before planting, because when digging the area, some of them will be buried and inaccessible to the roots, and the other part will dissolve and be washed away with water.

The most successful place for a rose garden may be the southern or eastern slope of the site, where there are no tall trees, and in the spring the melt water does not stagnate. The bushes should have room on it: they will develop better and will be easier to care for.

To prevent roses from being harmed by strong winds, it is preferable to plant them near other ornamental shrubs or building walls.

Diseases and pests of roses. Fight them. Photo

I will tell you how I fight pests and diseases on my site.

The main problem with my roses is aphids . Perhaps because viburnum and mock orange grow on the site, which are affected by aphids every year, since these are large bushes, they are difficult to process, and one cannot raise one’s hand to remove them. Especially viburnum Buldenezh is an unusually beautiful shrub. So I fight aphids and the ants that carry them with all my might.

Aphids appear in mid-May and suck the juices from young buds. I have to spray the roses with insecticides every two weeks. Folk remedies: spraying roses with soapy water and garlic infusion did not produce results.

Last year, treatment with ammonia helped me. 2 tablespoons of ammonia per 1 liter of warm water with the addition of 1 tablespoon of feri. I dilute the solution in 8 liters of water and spray the rose bushes. But it is best to use broad-spectrum insecticides, such as Aktara, Inta-Vir, Fitoverm.

, black spots appear on my roses .

Black spot —

This is a fungal disease caused by the fungus marsonina. Brown and black spots appear on the leaves of the plant, and the bushes lose their foliage.

If the infection is severe, the bushes become bare and the plant may die. The fungus overwinters on plant debris, fallen leaves and rose stems. In spring, when the temperature rises to 10 degrees, the fungus begins to develop. When warm and humid weather sets in, the fungal spores ripen. Dispersal of spores continues for forty days. Therefore, signs of the disease do not appear immediately. Depending on weather conditions and the resistance of the roses, the disease may appear earlier or later.

To combat black spotting, a set of measures is needed. It is important not only to spray with fungicides, but also to increase the plant’s immunity. To do this, I treat the plants with immunostimulating drugs, such as zircon and cytovit. Throughout the season, I collect affected leaves to prevent the disease from spreading. Leaves should never be put into compost, but only burned.

• I begin the fight against the disease in September . I collect and burn all the foliage under the roses. I spray the ground and bush with a solution of iron sulfate.
• In early spring, I again treat the bush and the soil under the bush with a solution of iron sulfate.
• At the beginning of May , three times every 10 days, for the first time, when the buds burst, then the first leaves appear and when the leaves bloom, I treat them with fungicides such as chorus, which works at low temperatures, topaz, speed or strobe.
• In June, I carry out foliar spraying to increase immunity with zircon. The leaf plate becomes denser and becomes more resistant to diseases.

Rose experts advise planting marigolds near roses.

• And in July and August I carry out prophylaxis with phytosporin on a leaf once every two weeks. But if the disease progresses, then I already use systemic drugs, such as Ridomil Gold, which works from the inside, quickly, strobe once every 10 days. It is advisable to change medications to avoid addiction. Unfortunately, this disease does not go away quickly.

Thank God I don’t have any other pests or diseases. Perhaps because the neighbors have a continuous lawn.

Should the root collar of roses be buried when planting?

The root collar is very vulnerable in winter. It can get wet during prolonged thaws and freeze slightly in winters with little snow. On heavy clay soils with regular stagnation of moisture, the root collar is placed above ground level, protecting it from getting wet, and on loose permeable soils, on the contrary, it is often buried a little so that it does not freeze in winter.

After planting, fill the hole and immediately water thoroughly to form a small puddle in the root circle. Water, going into the ground, will remove air voids in it.

After the first puddle is completely absorbed, watering must be repeated (perform similar waterings periodically until the onset of stable cold weather).

At the end of 2 waterings, perform hilling, raking the surrounding soil towards the bush. There should be no holes left in the tree trunk circle, so that there is no stagnation of moisture around the root collar in the future.

Sheltering young roses for the winter

Be sure to use garden pruners to remove all flower buds immediately after planting. In any case, they will freeze out over the winter, but with the sudden return of short-term warmth in late autumn, they will not produce shoots (they will not divert the plant’s energy to their formation instead of the necessary rooting during this period).

Later, in November, when the time comes to cover the roses for the winter, pour a bucket of dry sand on top of the tree trunk, creating a small mound near the trunk, and then use spruce branches or spunbond.

If you are completely late with planting and snow has already fallen, then you can take the roses to the cellar with a minimum positive temperature (0 ... + 2 C), or put them outside in a trench (trench) with good shelter

© Ilya Vladimirovich | 2018-10-06 That same gardener

Which variety of roses should you prefer for breeding?

miniature and hybrid polyanthus varieties are suitable;

• semi-climbing species;
• climbing varieties of roses belonging to the rambler group;
• Excelsa flowers;
• species with large flowers Flammentanz;
• representatives of the Floribunda group belonging to the Iceberg and Rosalind varieties;
• specimens of hybrid tea roses take root quickly, but their root systems are less developed, so they are propagated by grafting.

For your information! Park varieties of roses and remontant ones are difficult to take cuttings.

Pruning roses

In mid-April, I come to my dacha in the Moscow region, and if the weather permits, I remove the shelter. The next day, I tremblingly begin the sanitary pruning of roses. I start pruning when the weather is slightly warm and the buds have just started to grow.

• Using a sharp, disinfected pruning shears, I remove blackened shoots that did not survive the winter.
• Then brown wrinkled ones that froze. I cut them at an angle of 45 degrees to healthy tissue 5 mm above the living bud, looking outward of the bush.
• I remove broken, weak shoots, shoots inside the bush, shoots that overlap.
• I cut off the remaining branches to a living bud.
• If most of the buds have blossomed, but the upper buds on some branches have not opened, then I remove this part of the branches to a healthy bud, since most likely they also suffered from frost.
• There should be 5-7 strong branches left on the bush. This is a well formed bush.
• At the same time I carry out anti-aging pruning. I cut off old branches to the ground.
• When the bushes grow, I do light shaping pruning to keep the bush in a nice shape.

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