Description with photo of rose variety Parade, growing features

Rose Parade is a true gem of the garden, combining elegance, fragrance, flowering beauty and ease of care. It is the main character of compositions with gracefully hanging stems strewn with beautiful flowers. A connoisseur of French roses, Parade is highly regarded by French flower growers and the parent plant (the New Down cultivar) from which it is descended. Learn about growing a paradigm rose and when to plant it, how to care for it, propagate it and use it in landscape design.

Description of the climbing rose Parade

Roses have been used by humans to decorate gardens and plots for hundreds of years. More than 30,000 varieties of roses have been bred, but breeders continue their work today.

Climbing roses are especially bright and colorful, from which gardeners create exquisite compositions with hanging cascades of flowering branches (see photo).

Climbing roses are divided into 2 main groups - ramblers ("climbing") with small flowers that bloom once and climbers ("climbing") - large-flowered ones that bloom repeatedly throughout the season.

Rose Parade, alternatively known as Parade, is a climbing plant of the Floribunda class, which was bred in 1953 by the American breeder Eugene Berner. During his 45-year career, he created more than 60 varieties of roses and bequeathed part of his inheritance after his death to graduates of Cornell University to continue breeding work on roses.

Rose Parade was obtained by hybridization from a mother plant - the New Dawn rose. The French especially value this variety, and they are considered the best rose growers.

General information about the hybrid

Climbing rose Parad from the climbing group belongs to the class of large-flowered roses. The hybrid was developed in 1953 in the USA. The "parents" of Parade are the New Dawn and World's Fair varieties.

Description of rose Parade

The flower has multi-petal buds (33 pcs.), terry. Their shades can range from intense (scarlet) to bright (cherry). Sometimes the middle of the bud is purple. Flowers can be single or in inflorescences of up to 5 pieces. The aroma is not very pronounced.

Flowering continues from June until frost. Repeated waves of abundant flower blooming are clearly visible. The buds remain attractive for 5-7 days. In extreme heat, caking and falling of 2-3-day-old flowers may occur.


Rose parade climbing

The foliage of the climbing rose is dense, and the leaf blades themselves are polished, dense green.

Biological characteristics

Climbing rose is a perennial vine.

The bush is spreading, powerful, 2-3 meters high, up to 2 meters wide

The shoots are thin, flexible, branch well, the branches often bend under the weight of the flowers, so support is required.

The foliage is abundant, dark green, shiny, decorative.

The flowers are large, 9-10 cm in size, saucer-shaped, consist of 30-33 petals, densely double, collected in inflorescences of 3 to 5 pieces.

Color: pink petals with a glossy tint and pearlescent tints, becoming cherry by the end of the season.

Duration of flowering: buds bloom slowly, bloom throughout the summer, sometimes goes away before winter with the inflorescences retaining their decorative effect for a long time. The flowering period is from June to September.

The aroma is light, pleasant, unobtrusive, reminiscent of bergamot.

Resistance to powdery mildew and black spot is high.

Resistance to rain is average, tolerates heavy but short-term rain. Due to the fact that the shoots bend under the weight of the inflorescences, rain does not fall into the calyx of the flower.

A serious advantage of the variety is its unpretentiousness; even novice gardeners can grow the climbing rose Parade.

Climbing roses are most often used for vertical garden decoration, especially where supporting structures allow the plant to gain a foothold. They are suitable for decorating arbors, arches, columns, trellises. They decorate fences and outbuildings.

Roses of the Parade variety can also grow as an ordinary bush. To do this, its shoots must be pruned when forming a bush.

Climbing roses combine very well in landscape design with other climbing plants; they look especially beautiful next to blue clematis and coniferous trees.

In Europe, this variety is called Climbing Parade; it is distinguished by its classic pink color. The flowers are double, collected in racemes.

Gardeners' opinion

Reviews about Rose Parade:

Angela44:

“Wonderful variety. Beautifully shaped flowers, burning pink. Holds the heat perfectly, the petals fly off on their own. She practically doesn’t get sick - she had MR once, but only slightly. The height is higher than stated."

Source www.rosebook.ru

Olkupriyanova:

“Rosa Parade has proven itself well in the Vladimir region, in the “risky farming zone.” Frosts occur down to -38. A huge spreading bush, I have a four-year-old tree 2 meters high and the same width. Beautiful healthy foliage, pleasant aroma, flowers last for weeks, despite rain and wind. Blooms continuously until frost. It stubbornly refuses to shed its leaves before winter; it has to be torn off before sheltering. All my roses overwinter under a polycarbonate cover mounted on metal U-shaped supports about 50 cm high (thanks to my husband, I welded them), on top of which I put lutrasil, lowering it to the ground. I recommend this wonderful variety to everyone."

Source www.rosebook.ru

Yulia, Kazan:

“My Parad climbing rose bloomed in the first year. True, not abundantly, there were rather single flowers, but in the second year I was delighted with the flower cap. I recommend everyone to decorate their garden with such a miracle.”

Source cveti-rasteniya.ru

Types of varieties

This Parade variety can also be grown indoors as a potted crop. This home rose is called Parade Mix. It blooms regardless of the time of year, for about 5-6 months with a dormant period of 2 months. Plant height 45-50 cm, flowers of medium size and different colors. The Star rose is considered the most beautiful of the Parade group of roses.

Selection of location and conditions of detention

The climbing rose Parad prefers fairly comfortable growing conditions.

Growing parametersCharacteristics
PlaceSunny areas, partial shade possible, no more than 2-3 hours a day. The best place is the south and southwest side
LightingFull lighting in the morning with light partial shade in the middle of the day is desirable.
Windiness, draftsA ventilated area for quick drying of the petals from dew and rain. Does not tolerate drafts
GroundwaterAt least 1.5-2 meters from the surface, since the root system is exactly that long. When groundwater is close to the groundwater, rotting of the roots occurs. Swampy places are not suitable
The soilLoose, fertile soil with good drainage. Unlike other climbing roses, it adapts to different types of soil; it can grow on sandy loam soils and loams, but it will bloom less profusely

Reviews from gardeners about growing Parade roses in various climatic zones

  1. Natalya, (Rostov-on-Don, zone 6)

"Parade" is a magnificent rose, I have no trouble with it. One minus is that it fades greatly in the sun and becomes pale.

  1. Svetlana, (Voronezh, zone 4)

My rose is already four years old. I survived all the winters under agroSUF, and under the same one. I use one piece every year. In those places where it was torn on the thorns, I fastened it with a stapler. In the spring I carefully remove it until the fall.

  1. Tatyana, (Alchevsk, zone 5)

I planted Parade 2 years ago. In the first year there were two branches and each had one flower. I didn't know that they needed to be torn off and the stems pinched. But the next year, when I did this, the rose blossomed and bloomed better, 2–3 buds in June. The second wave began at the end of July, but the flowers were smaller. But still, very beautiful.

  1. Olga, (Kamyshin village, Moscow region, zone 4)

In the spring I planted a rose with a lump. By summer it had grown to almost two meters and bloomed well. There are only three branches, each with three or five flowers. I didn't even expect it to bloom in the first year.

  1. Marina, (Saratov, zone 4)

“This is my fifth year running the parade. During this time I never got sick. This year, in May, a small plaque appeared, so I immediately sprayed it with mikosan, then a couple more times, and everything went away.

Preparing for landing

Before planting, it is necessary to carry out a number of pre-planting measures.

Selection of seedlings

The seedling should have 2-3 shoots with intact woody bark and a powerful root system with a large number of roots.

Preparing the soil and planting hole

The soil needs to be prepared. To do this, dig it up and add ½ bucket of compost or rotted manure to each hole. If the soil is sandy, add clay at the rate of 10-15 kg per square meter. meter, if clayey - 20 kg of sand and 3-4 kg of peat. Peat is applied in advance, 5-6 months before planting.

Roses do not tolerate acidic soil, therefore, if the pH is less than 6, lime or chalk or dolomite flour is added to the soil.

A hole for planting is dug 50x50 cm in size at a distance of 2-3 meters from each other. Planting depth is 55-65 cm. The fertile layer should be at least 30 cm.

Experienced flower growers advise carrying out pre-planting activities in the fall and planting the seedling in the spring.

Preparation of seedlings

Before planting, seedlings are placed in water for 30 minutes; some gardeners leave the seedlings for a day. The roots and aerial parts are shortened to 30 cm, leaves, defective shoots and roots are cut off, and the cut areas are sprinkled with ash. It is advisable to disinfect the seedlings with a 3% solution of copper sulfate. For better rooting, use “Kornevin”.

Flower propagation

There are several ways to get new plants. Almost like all roses, the Parade multiplies:

  • cuttings;
  • rooting of cuttings;
  • vaccination;
  • seeds.

Important! Seeds collected from their own bush do not retain their parental qualities.

Rooting of cuttings and layering must be completed before mid-summer. By winter, the seedlings should have a strong root system.


Cuttings

The most used propagation methods are cuttings and rooting of layering.

In the first case, you can use trimmings after the rose has formed. Cuttings must have at least 5-6 eyes. Before planting in soil or water, they need to be treated with a root formation stimulator. Survival will occur faster if you create a greenhouse effect for the seedlings, that is, cover them with a transparent cap.

For propagation by layering, the lower mature branch is selected and buried lengthwise into the groove. The shoot will grow roots over time. The young plant should be left under the mother bush until the next season.

Landing

  1. The seedling is placed in the prepared hole so that the roots lie free and half filled with soil; the graft should be 10 cm below the soil level;
  2. The soil is compacted and watered;
  3. Then lay the rest of the soil and again compact it well and water it;
  4. If planting is done in the fall, the seedling is buried to a height of 25 cm with earth and leaves to prevent freezing; in the spring, 20 cm is enough to prevent drying out;
  5. When groundwater is close to the ground, a stone is placed at the bottom of the planting hole or a concrete cushion is formed so that the root system develops horizontally.

Landing dates

Climbing rose seedlings can be planted in both spring and autumn. The best time is in the fall: September-October, in the spring – April-May.

Depending on the region, dates may shift. In the middle zone, planting is carried out at a soil temperature of 10-12 degrees, before the buds begin to bloom.

In the south, planting seedlings is recommended in the fall until mid-October so that the plant can take root before the onset of frost.

When to plant?

It is best to plant the crop in late spring or early summer. Thanks to this, the plant will have time to grow and get stronger before the arrival of winter.

Site selection and soil preparation

Parade roses can be planted in shady places. However, it will be possible to achieve lush and abundant flowering only in sunny areas. It is important to choose a place with good air circulation. When planted in a sunny location, rainwater evaporates faster from the foliage. This helps minimize the risk of fungal infections.

The culture is not too demanding on the composition of the soil. It can grow and develop on any soil. However, the best option would be loose and nutritious soil. Good drainage is important.

To prepare the soil, it is worth making a strip 50 centimeters wide and digging it deeply. Then, for each plant, dig a hole the size of the root system and add organic fertilizer to it. For this purpose, manure or compost is used.

Preparation of planting material

To soak planting material, you should make a Kornevin solution. Other growth stimulants are also suitable. It is worth immersing the seedling in the resulting depression for half an hour.

Landing technology

When carrying out planting work, the crop must be immersed in a hole, sprinkled with soil and its surface compacted. The planting should be completed with abundant watering. In this case, it is recommended to shorten the rose shoots. For abundant flowering, their size should be 15 centimeters.

Rules for caring for and growing in the garden

Caring for the Parada climbing rose in the first year is not difficult: watering 3 times a month, loosening 2-3 days after watering and tying the plant to a support as the stems grow. No feeding required.

Caring for an adult plant, starting from the second year, is more complex and responsible.

Watering

  • The standard watering regime for an adult climbing rose is once every 10-12 days, a young seedling is watered more often - every other day;
  • For one bush, 10 liters of water is enough; during dry periods, you can increase the amount of water to 2 buckets;
  • It is recommended to water with warm, preferably rainwater;
  • You need to water slowly, at the root, trying not to get on the leaves;
  • To prevent moisture from quickly evaporating after 2-5 days, it is necessary to loosen the soil around the bush to a depth of 5-6 cm;
  • To prevent dehydration of plants, use mulching of tree trunk circles with straw, sawdust, and leaves;
  • The watering regime must be strictly adjusted: excess moisture leads to fungal diseases, lack of water leads to poor development of the bush, small flowers and soil salinity;
  • Watering is especially important during the formation of buds;
  • At the end of flowering, watering and loosening are reduced, and in October they are stopped completely so that the plant prepares for winter.

Top dressing

This type of rose needs feeding more than other climbing varieties; it must be done all summer every 10-20 days, but during flowering the feeding is stopped.

Experts advise feeding according to the following scheme.

Feeding timeName of fertilizers
After removing the winter shelterAmmonium nitrate (1 tbsp. per bush in moist soil, after fertilizing the bush is watered)
2 weeks after the first feedingRepeat the same option
During the budding periodComplex nitrogen-containing fertilizers
Before flowering begins (June)Infusion of mullein (1:10) or chicken manure (1:20) at the rate of 3-5 liters per bush
After the first wave of floweringA mixture of superphosphate (25 g per 10 l of water) and potassium sulfate (10 g per 10 l of water), or complex phosphorus-potassium fertilizers without nitrogen
After complete floweringSuperphosphate (30 g per 1 sq. m)

Trimming

Thanks to feeding, the plant will bloom profusely, and the buds will be brightly colored. The climbing rose Parad responds very well to fertilizing with mineral fertilizers.

The purpose of pruning climbing roses is to form a beautiful crown, maintain the health of the bush and obtain strong and long flowering. Pruning is carried out in the spring after removing the cover and in the fall before the onset of frost. There is a pruning rule: the number of pruned shoots must be equal to the number of remaining shoots.

In the spring, at the end of April - beginning of May, they carry out sanitary pruning of frozen, broken shoots, and also cut off the ends of the branches to the first bud for better branching. Pruning is done with a sharp tool at an angle of 45 degrees above the bud.

Three-year and four-year-old shoots are cut to the ground, since flowering on them is weak or may not occur at all. They form a bush, leaving 3-7 shoots from last year and 4-5 annual branches (the Parade rose blooms on both new and last year’s shoots).

In summer, faded canes and inflorescences are removed to stimulate flowering on new shoots as needed. The shoots coming from the base of the bush are cut out at the root, otherwise the bush will degenerate and lose its species characteristics.

In the fall in October - November, after flowering has ended, the bushes are shortened to the size of a support and unripe thin weak shoots are removed.

Inexperienced gardeners can use a lightweight pruning option: shorten the entire bush by half and cut out old, broken, defective shoots.

Rose blossom

The parade rose begins to bloom in the second year of life. This is a delightful process that delivers truly aesthetic pleasure. The rose produces dense flowers with many petals.

Rose Black Prince - description of the variety

For full flowering, maximum illumination of the plant in the morning and partial shade in the afternoon is desirable. When watering, it is important to ensure that water does not get on the leaves and buds.

Fact! Every year there are more and more flowers on the bush. Parade has several waves of blooms per season. Each subsequent one “colors” the flowers in an increasingly darker, more saturated color. The period of active flowering lasts from the beginning of June until autumn.

The absence of flowers in a rose may be due to the following reasons:

  • improper lighting in the area where the bush grows. A rose needs light at least 8 hours a day;
  • inadequate pruning of the bush. Severely shortened shoots compensate for the lack of greenery by the lack of flowering. Poorly removed root shoots can also choke the bush;
  • the plant is weakened due to disease or improper watering;
  • overfeeding Inexperienced gardeners recommend weekly feeding of the plant; this is a mistake. This approach does not stimulate flowering, but on the contrary - the bush increases its green mass and produces only 1-2 buds per season.

Shelter for the winter and caring for roses in spring

Shelter for the winter is necessary to preserve the plant from frost, only in the south the climbing rose is not removed from its supports.

The bush is untied from the supporting structure, laid on the ground covered with dry grass and covered with dry leaves and spruce branches. The difficulty is that with this method you will need to remove all the lashes of the plant, bend them to the ground, pin and cover each one.

Important! The tops of the lashes should not touch the ground.

For covering, you can use spunbond or lutrasil. Before the shelter, all the foliage is torn off from the vines. They begin to remove the lashes from the supports 1.5 months before sheltering; it is better to do this in dry weather.

With the onset of spring, it is important to open roses at the right time to prevent damping off. The plants are opened gradually: first the spruce branches are removed, then the roses are covered with cloth to protect them from the sun and sudden changes in temperature, and only after a few days the roses are opened completely. It is better to open in cloudy weather.

Advantages and disadvantages of the variety

The Parad variety is in great demand for its qualities. Its undeniable advantages include:

  • the power of the plant bush;
  • drought resistance;
  • rapid growth and development during the season;
  • lush repeated flowering;
  • resistance to diseases, precipitation, short-term temperature drops;
  • unpretentiousness of care;
  • ease of reproduction;
  • long-term preservation of freshness of cut flowers;
  • strong aroma.

The disadvantages of the climbing rose Parad are the same as those of all climbers:

  • the rigidity of the shoots, the possibility of breaking them;
  • the need for shelter for the winter;
  • instability to excess moisture in the soil.

Requirements for supports for roses

The support is installed at a distance of 45-50 cm from the plant. The most commonly used materials for supports: metal, wood, plastic. The support must be durable, resistant to moisture, frost, and not subject to corrosion. The support is selected in such a way that as the plant grows, it can withstand the increasing weight.

To prevent infections, supporting structures are treated with special protective agents. Silicone twine is used to tie the rose to the supporting structure; wire cannot be used.

Reviews

Inessa

Roses are my favorite flowers. There are many varieties growing on my site, but Parade always blooms the most beautiful. By the way, it’s not for nothing that they called it that – I have a rose growing at the main entrance to the house. We made an impromptu arch out of it, which in the summer is full of color and a pleasant aroma. The biology of roses is such that on young shoots the flowers have a less bright shade than on last year's ones. This feature makes the bush even more spectacular due to its variegation of color. The buds open slowly and one by one, but there are a lot of them and it seems that they are all blooming en masse. I recommend the variety.

Catherine

Of the climbing roses, Parade is perhaps the most spectacular variety. I like the stuffed, tight buds that sit tenaciously on a strong stem. Thanks to this structure, the flowers do not fall apart over time and do not fall off in the wind and rain.

Zhanna

For me, the Parad variety showed itself only in the third year after planting. The first year it didn't bloom at all. And in the second year there were few flowers, I thought that maybe the soil was bad or the bush was sick. However, this year the situation has leveled off naturally. The bush has already grown quite large, two meters high and one and a half meters wide. Color with huge red flowers. I think this is such a feature of the Parade - it takes a long time to gain momentum, but then “shoots out” with such beauty that the whole neighborhood comes to admire it.

Diseases of climbing rose Parade

DiseaseSignsTreatment
Black spotBrown spots on leavesA solution of Bordeaux mixture or ferrous sulfate
Powdery mildewGray coating on leavesInfusion of ash, Bordeaux mixture
Gray rotLeaf and stem rottingCopper oxychloride
rose cicadaThe leaves dry out and fall offIntavir, Fufanon
Bark cancer after removing coverBrown spots on the barkCut off diseased areas of the lashes and burn
Spider miteDamage to leaves and budsFitaverma, Antellika

The climbing rose Parade, according to reviews from flower growers, is an excellent option for landscaping not only because of its beauty and grace, but also because of its endurance and unpretentiousness. There is only one drawback: it fades greatly in the sun and becomes pale.

Diseases, pests and ways to combat them

The rose is susceptible to damage:

  • black spotting;
  • powdery mildew;
  • gray mold;
  • roseate cicada;
  • thrips;
  • bark cancer;
  • spider mite.

Treatment with fungicides (Gumistar, Fitosporin-M), correct, timely pruning of the plant allows you to overcome black spot, powdery mildew, gray rot and rust. Pest control is carried out using insecticides (Karbofos, Iskra Zolotaya, Konfidor).

The plant is highly resistant to black spot and powdery mildew. These diseases affect the bush extremely rarely.

Rose Parade is by far considered the best in her group due to her beauty and other positive qualities. Even novice gardeners can grow it.

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Can an indoor rose bloom continuously?

The culture in the subequatorial regions (Colombia, Ecuador, Kenya) does not go into a dormant period. Theoretically, “eternal” flowering can be achieved in the northern countries - in the middle of winter you can buy a flowering bush in a hypermarket that was actually grown in a Russian greenhouse.

But at the same time, the life form of a rose is a deciduous shrub, and long breaks in flowering and shedding of foliage when cold weather sets in are physiological for it.

When manufacturers write about miniature roses “continuously blooming,” they are lying a little - flowering occurs in two or three waves over the summer.

But if your indoor rose doesn’t bloom at all , it’s worth wondering: why? Most likely, it lacks lighting or, alternatively, nutrition from the soil. Otherwise, if the plant is healthy, then it simply must bloom!

Homemade rose in a pot: how to care for it to make friends with a capricious sissy

Let's consider the most important factors that need to be taken into account for the health and flowering of indoor roses.

Lighting

High-quality care for indoor roses at home is impossible without good lighting. The best windows for roses are south or southeast. However, at the height of summer, it can become too hot near such windows, and direct sunlight can also cause burns on the leaves.

Therefore, in summer it is necessary to shade roses from the midday sun. Or better yet, take the plants out onto the balcony for bright, diffused lighting and fresh air. The rose can remain on the balcony for 3-4 months, throughout the warm period of the year, and then, with the onset of cold weather, it can be sent back to the windowsill.

Note!

Good lighting is the most important thing when growing miniature roses indoors. All other factors are easily achievable and are no longer so important if you have the right lighting.


Homemade roses on the balcony

In winter, lighting can be a problem. The Russian winter is a burden for a southerner. Even if the pot occupies the brightest window sill, a short, gloomy day is often not enough for effective photosynthesis. In a warm room (20-23⁰C), a home rose in a pot spends a lot of energy on metabolism, but does not produce enough nutrients.

As a rule, a spider mite appears “out of nowhere”, and the weakened bush is unable to resist the pest.

What to do? There is only one way out - to add more light. A phytolamp gives plants the best spectrum, but if the pink glow is annoying, then you can use ordinary LED or fluorescent lamps, but more powerful.

If in winter you cannot provide the rose with high-quality additional lighting, it is necessary to reduce its temperature and put it into a dormant state.

Temperature

Roses don't like high temperatures, but they don't like cold either.

For flowering, the optimal daytime temperatures are 18-24⁰C, night temperatures are at least 15⁰C. If the temperature drops below 10⁰C, the plant may enter a dormant phase and stop flowering.

In winter, if it is not possible to provide additional lighting, you need to give the rose a rest. Place the pot with the plant in a cool, bright place with a temperature of about 5-10⁰C, reduce watering, and do not fertilize. With this maintenance, the rose will begin a dormant period, which, by the way, is very useful for the future spring growing season, the development of new shoots and flowers.

Watering

Miniature house roses in pots require frequent watering, without drying out. At the same time, they are susceptible to root rot and fungal infections, so you can’t create a swamp for them in a pot. Allow the surface of the soil to dry out between waterings to avoid problems with waterlogging.

Water the rose generously, so that the water wets the entire earthen lump and begins to pour into the pan. 5 minutes after watering, the water from the pan must be drained! A very good way out of the situation: put a layer of pebbles or expanded clay in a tray and place a pot of roses on them. This allows water to drain freely from the pot and eliminates the possibility of the roots being in contact with water for long periods of time. By the way, this solution is an effective way to increase the air humidity around the plant.

Air humidity

Miniature indoor roses in pots , like their garden counterparts, require high air humidity. Otherwise, they begin to be affected by pests, get sick, and may even pass away into another world. Therefore, by all means, especially in winter, with the heating on, increase the air humidity. For these purposes you can use:

  • spraying the plant and the air around it;
  • jars of water placed on the windowsill next to flower pots;
  • ceramic humidifier containers that hang on the battery;
  • electric humidifiers.

Another wonderful option was written above. The pot with the rose is placed on a tray filled with pebbles or expanded clay. Water is poured onto the tray so that it partially covers the stones. The water will slowly evaporate and increase the local humidity around the rose.

Feeding

During the warmer months of the year, miniature roses should be fertilized regularly. This will encourage new foliage and flower growth and help the plant stay healthy. Fertilize your rose every 2-4 weeks from early spring to mid-autumn.

Choose a fertilizer suitable for flowering plants, ideally one specialized for roses. For example, Bonaforte “For roses and chrysanthemums” (3-4-8), Agricola “For indoor and garden roses” (4-5-6), etc.

Always apply fertilizers on moist soil. That is, first water the plant with clean water, and after a few minutes - with water with dissolved fertilizer. This will avoid chemical burns to the roots. They will tell you how to properly care for indoor roses in the video:

Main varieties

Mini roses were brought to Europe at the beginning of the 19th century from East Asia, but at that time these varieties were rare. They began to be grown on an industrial scale not so long ago, with the advent of modern cloning technologies. Today, thanks to the efforts of American, Spanish, but mainly Dutch breeders, a huge number of forms and varieties of miniature roses have appeared. The following 4 varieties are considered the most popular in home culture.

Mini mix

This group includes many different varieties of dwarf roses. Their peculiarity is their low stem part (up to 40 cm). Flowers can be different: small, medium-sized or large (depending on the variety). Often, such a rose is distinguished from a garden rose only by its short stature, since the leaves and buds are almost the same size. The “mini” variety is well suited for indoor growing.

Parade mix

The most popular home rose is Parade Mix. This variety is better adapted to indoor conditions than others. Regardless of the time of year, it blooms massively and for a long time (5–6 months). The break in flowering is short, up to 2 months, after which buds form on the bush again. The plants themselves are low (40–45 cm), the flowers are of medium size, of different colors. The most beautiful representative of the Parade group is rose Star. Its flowers are as close as possible to a tea rose in shape and appearance.

Patio mix

Patio roses are a low-growing variety of the floribunda group. They are not a miniature species (their height is 50–55 cm), but they are the shortest in their group. Thanks to these dimensions, Patios are an ideal decoration for a winter garden, greenhouse or flower bed. Their name comes from the fashionable way of decorating patios with decorative roses in pots. The bushes of these roses bloom very beautifully and luxuriantly. The flowers are large, of a wide variety of shades, arranged singly or in inflorescences. Flowering lasts a long time, as new roses immediately open instead of faded buds. This group includes varieties with two-color variegated or striped petals. It also includes spray roses, the peculiarity of which is that each branch is a separate bouquet of several buds.

Cordana mix

Cordana is the smallest and shortest rose of all the mini ones. Its height does not exceed 30 cm. It is mainly grown as a potted crop, but can be planted in flower beds as a border. The bush is lush, the leaves are small, the buds are classic-looking, small. Color variations are limited to four colors: white, light or deep pink, yellow and red. Roses of this variety are distinguished by lush and long-lasting flowering (from spring to mid-autumn). Their peculiarity is the complete absence of aroma, due to which the flower can be kept by people prone to allergic reactions. Cordana is capricious, so caring for it at home will require time and some effort from the gardener.

Choosing the “right” rose: varieties of indoor miniatures

There are several hundred varieties of miniflora varieties and this list is growing every year.

Many chic varieties of roses, including miniatures, were bred in the Danish nursery Poulsen Roser A/S. Here, in 1981, the first miniature “house” rose was created - the Teeny Weeny variety from the PARADE® variety series. PARADE® roses are compact, with small leaves, but rather large flowers (5-8 cm in diameter), blooming profusely and often.


Indoor rose Cajsa from the PARADE® series

The same breeder developed a series of miniature house roses PATIOHIT® (Patio Hit) - with large flowers and more powerful bushes than PARADE® roses.


Rose Imola from the PATIOHIT® series

A little later, the PARTY® variety series was developed - a dwarf version of PARADE®, the height of these plants when delivered does not exceed 10-15 cm.


Miniature rose Breeze from the PARTY® series

Another well-known nursery from Germany, W. Kordes` Sohne, introduced a popular variety of indoor roses to the markets - KORDANA® (Kordana). These are dense, clustered bushes with dark glossy foliage and multiple flowers. There are roses KORDANA®CLASSIC with flowers with a diameter of 2-4 cm and KORDANA® GRANDE with flower heads more than 4 cm in diameter. Cordana rose in a pot is often sold in our flower shops ; caring for it at home is the same as for other varieties of potted roses.


Rose Bonanza Kordana ® Grande

Among collectors, roses from the selection work of a Danish company, Roses Forever ApS, are also highly valued. Thanks to her, the world received such famous brands of miniature roses as ROSES FOREVER® and INFINITY®. In the ROSES FOREVER® series there are varieties with very large flowers, for example, ROSES FOREVER®NEVADA and ROSES FOREVER®MARINA have flower heads with a diameter of 15 cm.


Mini rose Roses Forever®, Moscow by Night™

The varieties of the INFINITY® series bloom flowers with a diameter of 7 cm (which is also quite a lot for potted roses!). This series is revered by many flower growers as a masterpiece of world selection. The INFINITY® bush is low, the stems are thick and juicy, large, dense flowers of a very beautiful shape. Moreover, the lifespan of each flower is about 5 weeks, so you can admire the beauty of a flowering plant for quite a long time.


Mini rose Infinity®, Princess of Infinity®

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