How to grow cucumbers in a greenhouse Oktyabrina Ganichkina

TV presenter and author of books on vegetable growing, experienced gardener O. Ganichkina cares for cucumbers in a greenhouse according to the principles she developed, using both the fertilizing method and the formation of a vine.
Maintaining temperature conditions, properly watering, pinching shoots - all these are labor-intensive, but necessary procedures for obtaining a good harvest. Using technologies tested by O. Ganichkina, everyone will be able to obtain high yields of greenhouse cucumbers on their own plot, from early spring to late autumn.

Strawberries. Oktyabrina Ganichkina: Practical advice

Oktyabrina Alekseevna Ganichkina is known to all gardeners and gardeners.
A leading and recognized expert in growing crops, a famous TV presenter, and author of numerous books, Oktyabrina Ganichkina shares her secrets with you today. 1. Sowing cucumbers (May 20 - June 20) 2. Caring for the greenhouse. Planting cucumber seedlings 3. A story about how to plant cucumber seedlings in open ground 4. Caring for cucumbers in open ground, during flowering and fruiting

5. Oktyabrina Ganichkina talks about how to pickle cucumbers right in the garden. A daily dose of positivity on the channel “There are cats”: https://www.youtube.com/user/herecats While planning to write this article, I kept putting off working on it due to lack of time. But by chance, having watched the plot of the TV show “With a New Home”, where our country TV star and author of numerous works for summer residents Oktyabrina Ganichkina was invited, I considered it my duty to clarify for my readers how to grow wonderful cucumbers in your garden on the windowsill. Often advice from Oktyabrina Ganichkina , outlined by her in her works, and now broadcast on television channels with multi-million audiences, are not professional in nature and, to put it mildly, cause bewilderment for most experienced gardeners.

It is no coincidence that at one time the most authoritative gardener in Russia, the editor-in-chief of the newspaper “Your 6 Sotok” Andrei Tumanov, harshly criticized the dubious works of Oktyabrina Ganichkina on the pages of the newspaper “Your 6 Sotok”. May the lady forgive me, but you need to respect your audience and it’s a pity that the author, who has an academic degree and rich life experience, has not learned to weigh the “usefulness” of his recommendations with the height of the platform provided to her. However, it’s time to move on to the informative part of the publication. First, we will select cucumber hybrids that we will grow on the windowsill, prepare planting containers, fill them with the optimal soil mixture and decide on the location of the “cucumber beds”.

We will definitely take into account the important factor that to grow cucumbers on a windowsill, you need a large enough area to accommodate them. Cucumbers are heat-loving plants.

The minimum temperature for seed germination is 17 - 18 degrees, the optimal is 24 - 26 degrees. Cucumber is light-loving, but can tolerate some temporary shading. Very demanding on air and soil humidity.

In spring, summer and summer, cucumbers can be grown on a windowsill without additional lighting. Windows facing the south-east, south and south-west are best suited for these purposes.

When daylight hours are short and the sun rarely looks into our windows, cucumbers need to be illuminated, preferably with special phytolamps. In the absence of such, you can use fluorescent lamps.

Reflective screens made of foil or thick polished white paper, installed next to the cucumber plants on the side of the room, will help to significantly increase the illumination of our plantings when growing cucumbers on the windowsill. The roots of the cucumber are located in the top layer of soil, no deeper than 25 cm, so the planting container should be wide and no deeper than 30 cm, with a volume of at least 5 liters, otherwise many cucumber ovaries will turn yellow and fall off due to lack of nutrition. The preparation of planting containers and methods of filling them with soil mixture are described in some detail by me in the article “Vegetable garden on a windowsill - preparing for sowing plants.”

In this regard, it would be appropriate to recall the importance of good drainage when preparing planting containers. Cucumber plants are very moisture-loving and will have to be watered frequently when grown on a windowsill, and it is not permissible to allow moisture to stagnate in the pots

The soil mixture should be nutritious and light, with the following composition: 30% bottom peat, 20% turf soil, 40% humus and 10% sand. For 10 liters of soil mixture, add two matchboxes of complex mineral fertilizer and a glass of crushed charcoal.

It doesn’t hurt to check the acidity of the prepared mixture using an acidity tester - the pH should be in the range of 6.6 - 6.8. Self-pollinating (parthenocarpic) hybrids of cucumbers should be grown in the garden on the windowsill so that you don’t have to work instead of a bee when growing them. Select varieties for growing cucumbers on the windowsill that are more shade-tolerant and have shortened internodes. Parthenocarpic hybrids of cucumbers have proven themselves most well for growing on a windowsill: Berendey F1 (agro); Balagan F1, Calendar F1, Okhotny Ryad F1, City Cucumber F1 (balcony variety), Balcony F1 (agro)Continued in the next article...

Lifehacks from Oktyabrina Ganichkina

— Are you against black color to cover seedlings and plants?

“Some have already covered their beds with black material. You know, if roofing felt and film (cover the strawberries), I really don’t like it. It's somehow unnatural. There is no soil to be seen, the root system does not breathe well. And still some slugs gather there. And in general, I don’t like blackness in the garden. Now you can mulch all the plantings. You know, hemp is hemp, the stalks are dried, they are chopped finely, so they can be used. And what does this mulching give? If we spill a bucket on a rose bush, for example, and mulch it, then the moisture in the root system remains for almost 10 or even 12 days. You can go on vacation, arrive, and your plants are growing, blooming, and no one has watered them. This is very good mulching. We mulch the cucumbers, that is, we mulch all the moisture-loving ones - and for the good. I recommend it to all gardeners.

— About a month ago we had an interview with two specialists in planting seeds. Even though they were friends, they argued among themselves. One says that in Soviet times the seeds were better, and the other says that even now you can find good ones. What do you think?

— Do you have flower or vegetable seeds?

— And flowers, and all vegetable crops. The assortment is such that if you just read, a month will not be enough for you to find out what crops we have. Now you can grow everything in the garden: watermelons, melons, various cucumbers (both parthenocarpic and bee-pollinated), tomatoes up to two kilos, and cherry tomatoes. A cherry branch can be a meter long. Imagine, all covered in tomatoes. I now have a lot of tomatoes growing, two greenhouses. They are, however, already old and need to be changed. I don’t have time to deal with them, but my tomatoes are always simply gorgeous, tasty - real.

— I was born and raised in Kuban. The tomatoes there are unripe, green, crushed, but they were all delicious. Arriving in Moscow, I suddenly discovered that there are “glass” tomatoes. What does this depend on?

— If you feed tomatoes with manure, you get the following result. Many of our gardeners still do not understand this.

In my youth, when I worked as an agronomist, I had no experience yet, and I also used manure. And now I only have organic fertilizers, such as potassium humate and liquid mineral fertilizers. For example, I don’t add humus to the greenhouse (dung or any other kind), or, God forbid, I add some kind of manure (chicken droppings or whatever) to the tomato greenhouse. I only grow on clean peat.

— What about biotechnologies, GMOs, and genetically modified products in general?

- We don't have them.

- But how do you feel about this? They say that this is acceptable in the EU.

Interviewed by Igor Bukker

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How to plant seeds?

First, the seeds are checked for germination. To do this, they are immersed in cool water for 12 hours, which is changed periodically. Then the seeds are taken out onto a damp cloth. It is necessary to provide conditions for germination - light, temperature and humidity must be optimal.

When the seeds begin to germinate, it will become clear which are suitable for sowing and which are not.

Before planting cucumber seeds in open ground, prepare the bed. If you plan to plant seeds without further replanting, then row sowing is used. Then you should do the following:

Deepen the bed with a hoe (5 cm).
Seeds are sown in the grooves, leaving approximately the same distance between them (which will depend on the selected variety).
The soil is compacted and watered.

Cucumbers do not like the cold, so it is worth planting the seeds in warm soil on the sunny side of the site, where there is no wind. To protect the soil from drying out (and therefore to ensure favorable conditions for seed germination), it is worth covering the soil with film.

If you plant seedlings, you will get the harvest a couple of weeks earlier. For propagation of seedlings, substrates that contain peat are used.

Feeding is carried out at the root of the sprout. Use non-concentrated water-soluble mineral fertilizers every 7 days. You can water it with water at room temperature.

This review of the best cucumber seeds for open ground will help you get high yields even from a small planted area, since you will not go wrong with the choice of variety.

Video about choosing seeds for open ground

https://fermoved.ru/ogurtsyi/o-ganichkina-posadka-i-vyrashivanie.html

https://glav-dacha.ru/semena-ogurtsov-dlya-otkrytogo-grunta/

How to prepare cucumber seeds for planting in open ground?

Before preparing cucumber seeds for sowing in open ground, it is worth understanding how to choose them.

To achieve an abundant set of cucumbers, you need to plant seeds that are at least and no more than two to three years old. The seeds can sprout after 10 years, but the yield will be minimal, just like when planting annual seeds.
If you only have planting material that is no more than a year old, proper preparation of seeds for planting in open soil is a necessary condition to guarantee a high yield. A prerequisite for storage is to provide access to heat (for example, near the battery). 30 degrees will be enough. On the eve of the summer season, the seeds are heated at a temperature of 50 degrees for 3 hours.
Seeds 2-3 years old should be stored in fabric or paper bags in a warm place with minimal humidity.
To plant, seeds need to be prepared. To do this, they are soaked in water for 2 hours, calibrated (mix 40 g of salt per 1 liter of water), where they are kept for about 20 minutes. Next, healthy seeds are selected and weak ones are thrown away. Then they are warmed up: the seeds are placed in a fabric bag for a couple of hours in a thermos, the water in which should reach 50 degrees.

How to prepare cucumber seeds for planting in open ground to prevent the development of diseases and fungi?

It is worth disinfecting with potassium permanganate for half an hour, after which the seeds are washed. Processing can be dry or wet. If you choose the second method, then after the procedure you should dry the planting material.
The next stage is that the seeds are enriched with useful substances. To do this, they are dipped in a solution of wood ash (2 tablespoons of ash per 1 liter of water at room temperature) for 3 hours. Then rinse again.
To speed up seed germination and protect against rot, they are soaked in a solution of 1 tsp. copper sulfate and nitrophoska for 12 hours. To improve the immunity of the fruit, the seeds are soaked in a solution of aloe juice and water (1:1). Another hardening option is to place the germinated seeds in the cold for a couple of days.
Treated seeds wrapped in a damp cloth or bag will sprout after 2 days. Do not wait for a large root to grow, otherwise it may break off when planting.

Advantages and disadvantages

Before we consider step by step all the features of the technology for growing cucumbers in barrels, you should understand its pros and cons:

Firstly, our dachas are not large in size, and I want to plant more than just cucumbers. The barrel makes it possible to use useful space more economically and use every corner of the site;
Secondly, this is a way to grow cucumbers a few weeks earlier, using the greenhouse effect and without fear of frost on the soil surface;
Thirdly, it's beautiful. An overgrown cucumber vine will look organic on the lawn, next to flower beds, or in the garden. It can be used to cover up parts of buildings that are not entirely aesthetically pleasing or to create a temporary hedge. In general, what is enough imagination;
And finally, cucumbers in a barrel are convenient, especially for those who have back problems. Vegetables are easy to care for and pick - no need to bend over to remove weeds, the fruits are always clean and clearly visible.

There are no obvious disadvantages to this planting method, except perhaps a little more frequent watering.

How to grow cucumbers in a barrel (according to Ganichkin)

Cucumbers in a barrel, growing Ganichkina has become so popular that today everyone will have their own tricks and secrets for this method of gardening. Once upon a time, a barrel for growing cucumbers was indeed an innovative invention.

It's so simple, but for some reason no one thought of it. So, cucumbers can be grown in barrels. If you have not heard of this method yet, then you need to study it in detail, because it has many advantages.

Advantages of the method

Cucumbers in a barrel, growing Ganichkin (photo) is, first of all, about saving valuable space in the garden. The barrel is filled with fertile soil and placed in a place that is not suitable for growing vegetables or even herbs. You can put a barrel on the asphalt, for example.

The growing season will be visible. You no longer need to lift each leaf and try to see if there are weeds, if flowers have appeared, if an ovary has formed. All weeds are visible and can be quickly removed without tearing your lower back. Fertilizers are easy to apply, just like watering cucumbers. In general, you have a large flowerpot with a beautiful bush at your dacha.

It will be possible to observe the growth of fruits even from a distance. No more worrying about overgrowing some cucumbers. All the fruits will be, in the literal sense of this expression, in full view.

It should also be noted that the barrel itself will be securely decorated with a plant that tends to actively curl. Hanging branches of cucumbers look beautiful and are simply a decoration for a summer cottage. You will not only have a harvest of green fruits, but simply a beautiful decorative element of landscape design. Pay attention to an interesting way of growing seedlings in plastic bottles on toilet paper.

Where to start

Cucumbers in a barrel, growing Ganichkin begins with the fact that you need to find a barrel. It can be made of wood or metal, even plastic. If you wish, you can paint the barrel. This does not affect the yield and growth of cucumbers: only the aesthetic appearance of the site and the bed itself.

Now the barrel should be filled with earth. It is necessary to mix the soil with organic matter so that the plant initially has enough minerals. Plus, humus will allow the soil to always be warm. Water the top of the soil with mineral fertilizers, then pour another glass of dark potassium permanganate solution. Wait for the moisture to be absorbed and try to dig up the soil in the barrel.

About seed preparation

To get an early harvest in a barrel, you need to properly prepare the seeds. This is done at the stage of selecting a variety: greenhouse early varieties of cucumbers are suitable for the barrel. For the first cultivation, the “Ajax” variety is recommended. Feel free to plant up to two dozen seeds in one barrel (by the way, this is the number of seeds, as a rule, taken for a two-meter bed).

In order for the seeds to germinate in greater quantities, a greenhouse effect must be ensured. This is done by covering the top of the bud with a film. When the sprouts appear, the film can be removed and the sun can be allowed to nourish the plant and give it strength to grow. The soil, of course, must be periodically loosened and freed from weeds.

As for the other stages of caring for cucumbers in a barrel (growing Ganichkin), they are exactly the same as caring for a crop when it is grown in a regular garden bed. But just think how much land you save, and how much easier overall crop care is.

Important! The same technology is suitable for growing other garden crops: peas, tomatoes, peppers. Any greenery will grow well in barrels, giving a double harvest. You no longer have to bend over your garden bed to pick some green onions or lettuce for lunch.

By the way, cucumbers in barrels have been actively practiced in China for many years. Every piece of land there is practically worth its weight in gold. When a barrel saves two meters of land, this is a huge plus. The harvest is voluminous and tasty. Despite the fact that growing cucumbers in a barrel in our country is not gaining momentum as quickly as in China, it is a universal and practical method. Be sure to try it!

Seedless method

Cucumber seeds should be sown in the garden bed in the last ten days of May - early June (depending on the variety). The ideal option would be light neutral or slightly acidic soil, with a high humus content and good light.

To grow cucumbers, it is better to use beds after tomatoes, onions, legumes, early varieties of potatoes and white cabbage. The worst predecessors are cucumbers, zucchini and other pumpkins.

Preparation

The preparation of the bed must begin in the fall, carrying out preventive treatment with a 1% solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture. After spraying, you need to burn all plant debris and dig up the bed.

In the spring, the area is again dug up deeply and fertilized:

organic fertilizers (maximum dose 5 kg/m2);
“Agricola for pumpkin crops” (one package per 3.5-4 m2).

Along the resulting beds, it is necessary to draw a furrow (2-3 cm) with a slat. Before planting, according to Ganichkina’s advice, it is better to generously water the furrows twice with a hot biostimulant solution for better growth and setting of greens.

Sowing

Sowing is carried out in warm and moist soil. The seeds do not require preliminary soaking, the distance between them is 50-55cm. To repel pests (ants, slugs, mice, etc.), sprinkle the beds with a mixture of ground peppers (black and red), and the row spacing with dry mustard.

The sown bed must be covered with non-woven material until mid-June to protect the sprouts from low temperatures.

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Seedling method

Growing seedlings in a greenhouse is the best way to obtain an early harvest of cucumbers. Closed soil will be more gentle for tender shoots and will protect them from negative environmental factors until the moment of transplanting to the garden bed, when the plants are stronger.

The optimal soil composition for growing cucumber seedlings in greenhouse conditions will be a combination of loam, humus and peat.

Preparation

Preparation for sowing cucumbers in protected soil conditions:

cleaning of plant residues;
greenhouse disinfection;
application of fertilizers and stimulants.

Disinfection of the greenhouse is carried out to protect against pathogens of fungal and viral infections; it is necessary to treat not only the soil, but also all surfaces of the room, tools and materials. For disinfection, Ganichkina recommends using a solution of copper sulfate, karbofos and tar soap or special preparations (Iskra DE, Hom).

To enrich the soil, ash, superphosphate and special stimulants for pumpkin crops are used.

Sowing and care in the greenhouse

Sowing time: by the time of planting in open ground, the seedlings should be 20-25 days old. The optimal temperature is 20-22° during the day and 13-15° at night.

Caring for sprouts in protected ground:

watering: 2.5-3l/m2);
applying fertilizing (at the stage of appearance of 2 true leaves, water with Agricola Forward or a similar fertilizer, at the stage of 3-4 leaves - fertilize with complex mineral fertilizer);
treatment with a root system growth stimulator (7-10 days after sowing).

Landing on the ground

Plants need fertilizer

Transplantation of seedlings occurs after the formation of 5-6 true leaves. Plant the bushes with a gap of at least 50 cm, stretching the trellis wire between the rows. It is necessary to attach pieces of thick rope to the wire so that it is possible to tie up the plants. The garter is made at the stage of formation of 8-9 sheets, when the lashes occupy a horizontal position.

According to Ganichkina’s method, the agricultural technology of growing cucumbers from seedlings in a garden bed combines the following points:

plant formation;
watering;
application of fertilizers.

Formation of lashes

Removing unwanted shoots plays an important role in crop development, preventing light deficiency and facilitating harvesting.

To thin out thickened plantings, each individual vine is formed according to the following scheme:

At the level of 3-4 lower leaves, it is necessary to remove all germinating shoots and buds. The green shoots that form at the beginning of the cane stop its growth and productivity.
Remove all side shoots up to 1.5 m from the soil, leaving only fruit ovaries from 4 leaves and above.
From 0.5-1 m above the ground surface they are formed with partial preservation of a side shoot with one leaf and ovaries.
Up to a height of 1.5 m - leave all the fruit ovaries, pinching the side shoots above the second leaf.
Above 1.5 m, pinching is done above the third leaf, preserving the side shoots.
The stem that has outgrown the trellis must be secured around the wire. I pinch its top when it reaches 50-60cm.
Simultaneously with the formation process, it is necessary to remove yellowed, weakened and diseased leaves.

Outdoor care

The volume of water required for the culture depends on the stage of development:

only planted seedlings - 3 l/m2;
budding and beginning of flowering - 5.5-6 l/m2;
mass flowering - 9-10 l/m2;
formation of ovaries and fruiting - 12-18 l/m2.

The volume and composition of fertilizers applied also depends on the vegetative maturity of the cucumber:

Before budding begins, watering with Agricola Forward is applied (at the rate of 2 tbsp per bucket of water);

At the stage of mass flowering, plants are fed with complex fertilizers with a high content of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium;

At the stage of green grass formation, the TV presenter recommends using Agricola Vegeta fertilizer (1 tbsp per 5 liters of water).

On average, for complete fertilizing it is necessary to apply 5 liters of fertilizer dissolved in water per m2. The introduction of fertilizing is of particular importance during the formation and ripening of fruits, therefore fertilizers at the fruiting stage are introduced once a week.

Forming a lash and caring for cucumbers

By the time of planting on the ridge, the seedlings usually have 5-6 true leaves. Young cucumber bushes need to be planted at a distance of 50-60 cm. Stretch a wire for a trellis over the rows of cucumbers, to which attach pieces of twine of sufficient length so that the bushes can be tied to them. This operation is carried out when the lashes have already grown to 8-9 leaves and lie on the ground.

The formation of a cucumber plant comes down to removing unnecessary shoots.

This way, every fruit will be available for collection, and the lash will receive maximum light. To ensure that the planting is not thickened, each lash is formed.

This is done according to the following scheme (Fig. 1):

Near the lower 3-4 leaves, remove all shoots and flower buds growing from the axils. O. Ganichkina claims that the fruits growing at the beginning of the vine retard its growth and the formation of subsequent cucumbers.
Up to a level of 0.5 m from the soil, you need to continue to remove the side shoots completely, but ovaries above 4-5 leaves can already be left.
The next level (up to a height of 1 m) is formed by retaining part of the side shoot with 1 leaf and ovaries.
From 1 m to 1.5 m, pinch the side shoots above the 2nd leaf, leaving all the ovaries.
Starting from a 1.5-meter height, leave the side shoots pinched above the 3rd leaf. As new shoots form on the side shoots, shorten them to 1 leaf with ovaries.
The stem growing above the trellis must be twisted around the wire and allowed to grow to a length of 40-60 cm, hanging freely down. Then pinch the top.

During operations related to the formation of the whip, it is necessary to simultaneously remove yellow leaves and those with signs of disease from the plant. It is better to remove this material from the greenhouse and destroy it.

How to choose the right cucumber seeds for open ground?

In order not to make a mistake with the variety, it is worth paying attention to whether it is intended for cultivation in greenhouse conditions, on covered soils or in open soil. After all, for example, greenhouse varieties of cucumbers sown will not be productive in open soil

How to choose the right cucumber seeds for open ground? – It is worth determining the goal - to grow gherkins, cucumbers for pickling and pickling or salads.

Salad cucumbers will be perfectly stored in the refrigerator, they may darken a little, but when pickled they will simply become limp. Pickling varieties are strong and remain crisp and green in brine. Gherkins are a good choice for both salad and canning.

Breeders have developed universal varieties that have all of the following properties:

Santana F1;
Regina F1;
Dachny;
Crane F1;
Gracious;
Farmer.

If you want to enjoy canned cucumbers, you should opt for:

Nezhinsky variety;
Muromsky (early ripening old variety);
fontanel;
Magnificent;
Salting;
Swag F1;
Atlantis F1.

Among the gherkins you should give preference:

Which cucumber seeds to choose for open ground (self-pollinating) and what are the advantages of such varieties?

The fruits set without pollination by bees.
They produce high yields.
Characterized by high-quality greens.
Cucumbers have no bitterness.
They bear fruit constantly.
They are characterized by high resistance to weather changes, as well as to diseases.

Popular self-pollinating cucumber seeds include:

Watering and fertilizing

As the vine grows, the amount of water needs to be increased from 3 liters for seedlings to 5-6 liters at the beginning of flowering, then to 10 liters with the massive appearance of flowers and for good fruit filling - 12-18 liters during the formation of ovaries. The amount of water is given per 1 m².

Temperature, watering, lighting

Tomato plants at different periods of growth and development have different requirements for external conditions. They can grow and bear fruit in long and even continuous daylight hours. A short day is only required for seedling growth. The most favorable temperature for tomato growth, development and fruiting is 22-25°C during the day and 16-18°C at night. At temperatures of 30°C and above, the pollen becomes sterile, the flowers fall off and do not form fruits. A tomato can tolerate short-term temperature drops of up to 3°C, but at such low temperatures it is necessary to insulate the plants inside the greenhouse.

The water requirement of tomatoes is quite high; plants especially need moisture during the formation of buds and ovaries. However, this crop does not tolerate soils with close groundwater. It does not tolerate high air humidity and prolonged rainy weather at all. Too humid air creates conditions for plant diseases such as brown spot and late blight and makes fertilization difficult.

Tomato is very demanding on lighting. With its deficiency, the seedlings become very elongated, become light green, the internodes become larger, the first cluster is formed later, the number of leaves between the inflorescences increases, and almost no fruit is set.

When growing in greenhouses, you need to monitor the air humidity (if the humidity is high, the fruits will not set). The optimal humidity is considered to be 60-70%. In film greenhouses it often increases to 80–90%. This air humidity affects the pollination of flowers: the pollen becomes sticky and does not fall on the pistil, causing the flowers to fall off without setting fruit.

Seedless method

To grow cucumbers, it is better to use beds after tomatoes, onions, legumes, early varieties of potatoes and white cabbage. The worst predecessors are cucumbers, zucchini and other pumpkins.

Preparation

In the spring, the area is again dug up deeply and fertilized:

organic fertilizers (maximum dose 5 kg/m2);
“Agricola for pumpkin crops” (one package per 3.5-4 m2).

Level the soil with a rake and compress it with plywood or boards, leaving the width of the beds at a maximum of 65-70cm.

The sown bed must be covered with non-woven material until mid-June to protect the sprouts from low temperatures.

From the second half of June, arches (1 m in height) are used as shelter, on which dense white material is located. It should cover the crops on all sides, protecting them from the sun.

If the cucumber variety is self-pollinating, the shelter is not removed until September (except for the time of fertilizing and moistening). If the crop requires pollination by insects, during flowering the edge of the shelter is raised from the windless side.

Provide your plants with proper care

Cucumber is a heat-loving crop; the optimal temperature for its normal development is 25–27°C. When it drops to 12°, the plant stops its growth and the formation of ovaries.

Before fruit formation begins, crop care is divided into:

Thinning of seedlings. When sowing, the percentage of seed germination is taken into account, so the seed is placed a little closer to each other than is necessary for full growth. After the second true leaf appears, the plants are thinned out (up to 3 times).
Weeding. Carefully done weeding will help prevent the growth of weeds and the spread of diseases and pests.
Watering. It is necessary to water cucumbers (except for the base of the stems) once every 3-4 days with a large amount of warm water at the rate of 2-3 liters per bush.
Loosening. Performed to establish optimal aeration and moisture capacity of the soil. The last stage of loosening occurs when 4-5 true leaves are formed, when the plants are still vertically directed.

After the start of flowering and especially during the period of fruit formation, care should be concentrated on the following points:

Watering. The amount of water must be increased to 3-4 liters per plant.
Fertilizer application. Fertilizers are applied once a week in the form of ready-made organic and mineral fertilizers. Spray the bushes every 2-3 weeks, alternating liquid fertilizers and growth stimulants.
Formation of the lash. The tops are pinched when the length of the lashes is at least a meter, the length of the side shoots is 45-50cm.

Text of the book “All about tomatoes and cucumbers from Oktyabrina Ganichkina”

Growing cucumbers in open ground

The beds for cucumbers are prepared in advance in a warm and well-lit place where pumpkin crops (cucumbers, zucchini, squash) were not cultivated in the previous year - to prevent infection by diseases and the appearance of pests.
Already in the fall, they choose a bed intended for planting cucumbers for the next year. It is prepared as follows: the bed is treated with the fungicide “Abiga-pik” (75 g per 10 liters of water) at the rate of 1 liter per 10 m2 of bed. After this, all plant debris is removed from the garden bed and burned. The bed is dug to a depth of 20–25 cm and left until spring.

The beds for cucumbers are prepared in advance in a warm and well-lit place.

In the spring, we again dig up a bed up to 70 cm wide to the depth of a spade bayonet. Then we spread organic fertilizer, cultivated peat, compost, manure humus, ready-made substrate for Seliger Agro cucumbers - at the rate of up to 3 kg per 1 m2. Then add wood ash at the rate of 1 cup per 1 m2. After this, we take an iron rake and soil along with organic fertilizers and level it to the depth of the teeth of the rake. The leveled bed is easily compacted with a board or plywood. After this, we make a groove 2-3 cm deep in the middle along the bed - we simply put a slatting on the bed and press it, we get an even groove.

Then prepare a hot solution: dilute 2 tbsp in 10 liters of water at a temperature of 50 °C. spoons of potassium humate “Prompter” for vegetable crops, 10 ml “Intermag Vegetable Garden” for cucumbers, 10 g of growth regulator “Kornevin” and 3 drops of regulator “Emistim”. Stir well and water the entire bed and furrow using sprinkling method, sparing no solution (it is better to water the furrow twice).

Well, now we take the dry seeds of self-fertile cucumber hybrids and sow them in a furrow: seed from seed at a distance of 50–60 cm. Carefully, lightly press the seed with your finger to the warm, moist soil and cover it with moistened loose soil on top - about 1 tbsp is enough. spoons of soil per seed. After this, you need to press the soil onto the seed with your hand.

The sown seeds are not watered from above, but the entire surface of the bed is dusted with ground hot black pepper (you can mix it with red). We do this so that the swollen seeds are not damaged by ants, the emerging seedlings are not eaten by slugs and are not chewed by mice - pepper repels them well.

And the last procedure is to cover the bed with a covering non-woven material, preferably a double layer.

The dates for sowing in such a bed are: May 25, June 1, and the last sowing date is June 15–20. The last sowing date will make it possible to eat fresh green cucumbers even at the beginning of October.

As soon as the threat of frost has passed (June 10–12), the cucumbers are opened, arcs 80–90 cm high are placed on the beds and a dense white covering material is placed on them, covering the bed on all sides. If you do not cover the bed, then the cucumber leaves from the bright sun become very rough, hard and prickly, break, turn yellow, turn brown, and the ovaries turn yellow and dry out. The harvest is quickly disappearing. If the cucumbers are self-pollinating, the covering material is not removed during the summer except for watering, fertilizing and harvesting.

If the cucumbers are bee-pollinated, the covering material during flowering is raised halfway on the warm, windless side.

If light frosts are expected after sowing, then cover the top of the covering material with additional plastic wrap, especially at night.

In the summer, cucumbers are fed almost every 7 days, mainly with ready-made organic and liquid mineral fertilizers.

Root feeding is carried out up to 5–6 times during the summer:

First feeding

carried out 10 days after germination or after planting seedlings: dilute 2 tbsp in 10 liters of water. spoons of potassium humate “Prompter” for vegetables. Consumption up to 2–3 liters per 1 m2; water over the entire surface of the bed.

Second feeding

carried out 6–7 days after the first: dilute 2 tbsp in 10 liters of water. spoons of liquid organic fertilizer “Effecton-O” and potassium humate “Prompter” for green crops, consumption up to 4 liters per 1 m2;

For the third feeding

in 10 liters of water dilute 10 ml “Intermag vegetable garden” for cucumbers and 2 tbsp. spoons of liquid organic fertilizer potassium humate “Prompter” universal, solution consumption 5 liters per 1 m2;

For the fourth feeding

dilute 10 ml of Intermag Vegetable Garden for cucumbers in 10 liters of water, using up to 3 liters of solution per 1 m2;

For the fifth feeding

dilute 2-3 tbsp in 10 liters of water. spoons of liquid organic fertilizer potassium humate “Prompter” universal and “Effecton-O”. Fertilizing is carried out every 7–8 days, strictly monitoring watering. Water only with warm water at least 3 times a week.

Growing cucumbers in greenhouses

Most crops grow well and bear fruit in open ground, but many of them, especially cucumbers, are grown in protected ground to obtain early production. In protected soil, it is possible to artificially create the conditions necessary for normal growth and development of plants. At the same time, the growing time for vegetables in early spring and late autumn is extended due to the protection of plants from frost and sharp temperature fluctuations during the growing season in spring and autumn.

Protected soil is of great importance for growing seedlings of early ripening varieties of vegetable crops, without which it is impossible to obtain early harvests of vegetables in open ground. Types of protected soil include: film or glazed greenhouses, various small-sized portable frame film structures such as a tunnel.

Greenhouse preparation and planting

Disinfection of greenhouses

: in the fall or early spring, the greenhouse is thoroughly disinfected. For 10 liters of water add 1 tbsp. a spoonful of copper sulfate and 40 g of the drug "Karbofos". Add 1-2 tbsp to the solution. spoons of liquid tar soap. Spray the ceiling, especially the corners of the greenhouse, paths, beds, and ground.

Cucumber requires highly fertile, loose soils that are well permeable to air, water and heat.

To grow cucumbers in a new greenhouse, in order to avoid the appearance of pests and diseases, it is better to prepare the beds from ready-made nutrient soil, which is sold in bags of 10, 20, 50 liters. In addition, they use the universal substrate “Exo” and the nutrient soil for cucumbers “Seliger Agro”. The soil is scattered in a layer of up to 18–20 cm. On such beds you can grow for 3–4 years without replacing the soil, with the addition of a nutrient substrate annually.

Craft beds

: beds for cucumbers are best placed from west to east, with a width of 70 to 90 cm, depending on the width of the greenhouse. The passage between the beds should be left 60–70 cm, the passage itself should be tiled, and to prevent the beds from falling apart, you can strengthen them with boards at least 20 cm wide and paint them with any oil paint.

Then the ridges are watered with a solution of liquid organic fertilizer, potassium humate “Prompter” for vegetable crops. To do this, dilute 2 tbsp in 10 liters of warm (50 °C) water. spoons of humate, 10 ml “Intermag Vegetable Garden” for cucumbers, 20 g of growth regulator “Kornevin”, 5 drops of regulator “Emistim”, stir well and water over the surface of the bed, using a solution of 3 liters per 1 m2. Even a small dose of this solution entering the soil leads to the formation of a large amount of humus, thereby significantly increasing soil fertility. Before watering, be sure to pour 10 liters of hot water per 1 m2 onto the beds.

As soon as the ridges are ready, two rows of wire are pulled along each of them at a height of 1.5–2 m, at a distance of 20–30 cm at the top. The wire must be well secured so that it does not break under the weight of the crop. Wipe previously used tension wire with a damp cloth and soap.

Sowing time

: for film greenhouses, seedlings begin to be grown in pots on the windowsill from April 2-5 to April 25-30, in order to plant them in the greenhouse on May 1-20, so that the seedlings are 20-25 days old. If the greenhouse is covered with two layers of film and there is additional heating, then there is no need to grow seedlings at home. Seedlings are grown immediately in a greenhouse in a small bed. The seeds are sown on April 15, and then after 25–30 days (approximately May 1–15), the seedlings are planted over the entire area of the greenhouse, i.e., in a permanent place. If the air temperature drops during the period of seedling growth, it is necessary to cover it inside the greenhouse with a light, light film or special non-woven material: lutrasil, agril, throwing it over temporary arches.

Seeds for seedlings are sown in pots, cups or bags measuring 8x8 or 10x10 cm. Ready-made nutritious soil mixture for cucumbers "Seliger Agro" is poured into the pots. The soil mixture is mixed well and poured to the top into pots, lightly compacted. Then water with a warm (50 °C) solution (10 ml of Intermag Garden for cucumbers is dissolved in 10 liters of water). If the soil mixture has become compacted, you need to add more soil to keep the pot full. Then place the filled pots on the garden bed.

The pots are placed one to one in a bridge manner, i.e., without distances between them. After this, the bed along with the pots is sprayed with a solution before sowing the seeds: 1 tablet of the fungicide “Gamair” is diluted in 1 liter of water, spending 1 liter of solution per 10 m2 (by spraying), to avoid root rot.

When growing seedlings, it is necessary to maintain the temperature at night at least 12–15 °C. At night you need to cover the seedlings warmer, and during the day remove additional covering material. If during the day the air temperature reaches 20 °C or higher and there is no wind, you can open the window on one side of the greenhouse.

The temperature in the greenhouse must be maintained at a constant level (the difference between day and night is no more than 4–6 °C). Too high a temperature causes stretching and weakening of plants, while temperatures below the optimum somewhat inhibit growth without, however, affecting the normal development of plants. The temperature in the greenhouse is regulated by ventilation, which can be increased and made longer as the outside temperature rises, up to the point of opening the door all day and then at night.

It is carried out in such a way that the following temperature is maintained: at night – 17–20 °C, in cloudy weather – 21–23 °C, in sunny weather – 25–28 °C. A little ventilation should be carried out even on cloudy days to avoid too high air humidity, which, together with low temperatures, can provoke plant disease.

The sown seeds, as well as the emerging seedlings, should be watered with a small watering can with very small holes. The rate of watering depends on the growth phase and ambient temperature. To ensure a good supply of water to plants, it is necessary to irrigate in such a way that the water reaches the depth of the roots.

Air humidity when growing seedlings is maintained at 70–85%. Adequate humidity on warm days is maintained by spraying inside the greenhouse. Air humidity above 90% in cloudy weather contributes to the appearance of droplet-liquid moisture on plants, which is favorable for the development of fungal diseases.

Feeding seedlings

: growing cucumber seedlings in greenhouses are fed every 8-10 days. For this purpose, the following solutions are used.

At the first feeding

per 10 liters of water add 2 tbsp. spoons of liquid organic fertilizer potassium humate “Prompter” for vegetable crops, spending from 2 to 3 liters per 1 m2, or 0.5 cups per pot.

Solution for the second feeding

prepared from liquid mineral fertilizer “Intermag Vegetable Garden” for cucumbers: add 10 ml per 10 liters of water, consuming 2 liters of solution per 1 m2. Or add 1 teaspoon of urea, potassium sulfate, superphosphate to 10 liters of water. Consumption from 2 to 3 liters per 1 m2.

When planting seedlings in a permanent place, the plants should have 5–6 true leaves, 1–2 tendrils, a thick stem and a well-developed root system.

Before planting seedlings, carry out moisturizing watering, make holes with a depth corresponding to the size of the pot, add 1 g of Zeba superabsorbent to each hole (this is necessary so that moisture accumulates in the soil next to the root system) and water the holes with a solution of organic fertilizer potassium humate “Prompter” for vegetables, 2 tbsp. spoons per 10 liters of warm (30 °C) water, spending 1 liter per well. The seedlings are planted vertically, filling only the soil pot.

If the seedlings have stretched out a little, then after planting the stem up to the cotyledon leaves can be covered with a 1:1 mixture of peat and sawdust, or with pure peat, or better yet with the universal soil “Exo” or soil for cucumbers “Seliger Agro”.

Seedlings are planted at a distance of 50–60 cm from each other. For better lighting, it is planted in a checkerboard pattern.

Plant care

in protected ground has its own characteristics, mainly due to microclimate regulation, ventilation, watering, fertilizing, processing, formation and harvesting.

When the plants have 8–9 true leaves and have passed frost, they are tied to a wire with polyethylene twine. The plant is formed into one stem, which reaches a length of 1.5 to 2 m, while the side shoots in the lower 3–4 nodes (in the axil of the first lower leaves) are completely plucked out (blinded) at the very beginning of their formation. The remaining side shoots coming from the leaf axils are left 20 to 50 cm long and the tops are pinched. The main stem reaches the wire, and as it grows, it is thrown over both rows of wire and pinched.

Watering and spraying

. Air humidity during the growing season in summer is maintained up to 90–95% (especially on hot sunny days), it is maintained by spraying the paths. Watering is carried out in the greenhouse in the morning. On cloudy days, water less frequently, 1–2 times a week; on sunny days, water 2 to 3 times.

The amount of water consumed depends on the phase of the plant and depending on the weather. Before flowering, water 5–6 liters, during flowering 8–10 liters, during fruiting – 12–18 liters per 1 m2. The temperature in the greenhouse should be 22–28 °C during the day, 17–19 °C at night (the difference between day and night temperatures should be no more than 5–7 °C). Too high a temperature (above 30 °C) causes the plants to stretch and weaken. Therefore, cucumbers grown in greenhouses at high temperatures require high humidity and ventilation; it is enough to open the windows, doors, or, if there is a film greenhouse, lift the film along one of the longitudinal sides.

The temperature in the greenhouse should be 22–28 °C during the day, 17–19 °C at night

Shading

– this operation is recommended, and sometimes simply necessary, when the sunlight is too high and the temperature in the greenhouse is too high. Despite ventilation, the temperature remains elevated, so diffused light is required immediately after planting or when caring for plants. In this case, spray with a weak aqueous solution of chalk on the outside of the heifer.

Soil temperature

during plant development it should be 20–22 °C. The beds are always kept free of weeds. In the first 2–3 weeks, when the plants are still small, very carefully loosen to a depth of 2–3 cm so as not to damage the roots. Subsequently, loosening is carried out depending on how irrigation water flows into the soil. If water does not flow well during watering, this means that the soil has become compacted. Then, using a fork, vertical punctures are made between the rows of plants to the depth of the horns, 4–5 punctures per 1 m2. With this kind of loosening, the root system is not disturbed unless you point the forks in different directions.

Studies have shown that plants develop more intensively and yields increase when the carbon dioxide content in the air increases. Its content can be increased by placing a barrel with manure mash. As manure decomposes, it releases carbon dioxide directly into the air. The mash must be stirred regularly, accelerating the fermentation process, and the cucumbers must also be fed with natural organic fertilizer “Potassium Humate” for vegetable crops: 2 tbsp. spoons are diluted in 10 liters of water and watered to 3 liters of solution per 1 m2. Feeding is carried out once every 10 days in addition to the rest.

Feeding.

When growing cucumbers in a greenhouse, 5–6 fertilizing with mineral and organic fertilizers is carried out over the summer.

Feeding before and during flowering

carried out with the following solution: dilute 2 tbsp per 10 liters of water. spoons of liquid organic fertilizer potassium humate “Prompter” for vegetable crops. At the beginning of flowering, the plants are fed with a solution: 10 ml of Intermag Vegetable Garden for cucumbers and 2 tbsp are diluted per 10 liters of water. spoons of organic fertilizer "Effecton-O".

During fruiting, cucumbers are fed 4 times.

For
the first feeding,
dilute 2 tbsp in 10 liters of water. spoons of organic fertilizer potassium humate “Prompter” for green crops and organic fertilizer “Effecton-O”, spending 5 liters per 1 m2.

Second feeding

carried out after 7–8 days: liquid organic fertilizer potassium humate “Prompter” is diluted into 10 liters of water: universal: 3 tbsp. spoons per 10 liters of water.

Third feeding

repeat after 8 days: dilute 10 ml of Intermag Vegetable Garden liquid fertilizer for cucumbers and 2 tbsp per 10 liters of water. spoons of potassium humate “Prompter” is universal, consuming 5–6 liters of solution per 1 m2.

Fourth feeding

You can prepare green herbs (plantain chickweed / woodlice /, nettle, quinoa), chop and pour 1 kg of this mass into 12 liters of hot water, stir well, leave for a day or more, then strain and water at the rate of 2-3 liters per 1 m2 .

During the growing season, 2-3 foliar feedings are carried out with a solution: 10 ml of Intermag Garden for cucumbers and 3 drops of Emistim growth regulator are diluted in 10 liters of water. Spray at intervals of 10–12 days, starting from the appearance of flower buds.

Garter and shaping

About a week after planting, the seedlings are tied to a trellis with synthetic twine. The twine is tied in a loose loop around the plant, as the thickness of the stem will increase with age. Once a week, the main stem is twisted around the twine, always in the same direction.

For beginning gardeners, shaping a cucumber often causes difficulties, and they pay insufficient attention to this operation. But if the formation is not carried out, then impenetrable thickets will form in the greenhouse, since the plants begin to grow a large number of lateral shoots of the first and second order, which sharply reduces the yield and provokes the development of diseases.

Forming plants will not take much effort if you do it constantly, once a week.

All buds and shoots are removed from the axils of the first 3–5 true leaves (the so-called “blinding”). If this is not done, then ovaries will form in the axils of the first leaves, which will hinder the development of the plant itself, and as a result, the overall yield will decrease. If seedlings are planted in early June, when the weather is warm and the plants grow quickly, then it is enough to blind the axils of 3 leaves; if planting is carried out at the end of April - beginning of May or the plants are weak, then it is advisable to blind 5 sinuses.

The general rule of formation is that the taller the plant, the more shoots and fruits are left on it. Over time, the main stem is thrown over the trellis and pinched, leaving 40–60 cm. As a rule, this is where the formation of the cucumber in the film greenhouse ends.

During the weekly formation of plants, any diseased or yellowed leaves are also removed. All pruning is done in the first half of the day so that the wounds dry out by night.

Harvesting

The quality of the fruit and the duration of fruiting largely depend on proper harvesting. Overgrown fruits take away nutrients and prevent young ovaries from developing, which leads to a decrease in yield.

During the fruiting period, cucumbers are harvested 2-3 times a week, or better yet, every other day (depending on weather conditions). It is best to harvest early in the morning, before the fruits lose their elasticity. Cleaning is carried out carefully, without turning over or moving the lashes. At the same time, not only marketable fruits are picked, but also ugly ones, as well as large fruits remaining from previous harvests (all this allows you to free the plant from unnecessary load).

At the beginning of fruiting, harvesting is carried out 2 times a week, during the period of mass fruiting - every 1–2 days. When the fruits outgrow, they lose their marketable appearance, and their selling price decreases. Cucumbers are harvested early in the morning before the fruits lose their turgor. During the harvest, not only all marketable fruits are picked, but also overgrown and irregularly shaped ones (“hooks”).

Varieties

The number of released cucumber varieties and hybrids increases every year. We list the most promising of them, which can be grown in open and protected ground:

Hermann

– the most popular, super early (38–40 days), super high-yielding hybrid. The fruits are large-tubercular, uniformly cylindrical in shape, 9-11 cm long, without bitterness. Recommended for growing in open and protected ground. Intended for fresh consumption and processing.

Rhythm

– parthenocarpic early hybrid: begins to bear fruit 39–41 days after germination. The fruits ripen smoothly and have an attractive presentation: pimply, standard in size, 8-11 cm long. Tasty both fresh and pickled. The hybrid is resistant to cucumber mosaic virus, cladosporiosis, powdery mildew, and relatively resistant to downy mildew. Transportable.

Caroline

– very early high-yielding hybrid (40–42 days), finely tuberculate. The fruits are homogeneous, cylindrical in shape, high taste, excellent color, without bitterness. Recommended for growing in open and protected ground. Universal use. Self-pollinating. Fruits are 7–8 cm.

Christina

– an early ripening parthenocarpic hybrid for film greenhouses and open ground. Beautiful white-thorned fruits are ready for consumption 40–45 days after germination. The greens are small, lumpy, without bitterness, good fresh and for pickling. Resistant to olive spot, true and downy mildew, and cucumber mosaic virus.

Athos

– early ripening (40–43 days) parthenocarpic hybrid for film greenhouses, shelters and open ground. Plants form 6 fruits in each node. Gherkin fruits are beautiful, 6–9 cm long, finely tuberculate, genetically without bitterness, excellent taste - both fresh and canned. The hybrid is resistant to true and downy mildew, cucumber mosaic virus, and tolerant to olive spot.

A real man

– early, super-high-yielding, super-productive, salad hybrid. The fruits are not smooth, tuberculate, 35–45 cm long, beautiful green in color, without bitterness, heat-resistant. It is recommended to grow in spring and summer in greenhouses of all types.

Marinda

– early ripening high-yielding hybrid. The fruits are large-tubercular with spikes, beautiful dark green in color, 8-12 cm long. Recommended for growing in open and protected ground. Universal use.

Three tankers

– parthenocarpic early ripening (40–45 days) hybrid of predominantly female flowering type. For spring greenhouses and tunnels. The greenery is tuberous, small. It is characterized by a friendly, massive and long-lasting yield. Resistant to olive spot and root rot.

Claudine

– one of the earliest for indoor and open ground. Parthenocarpic, early ripening, high-yielding hybrid with a predominantly female type of flowering. The fruits are of excellent taste and commercial quality: finely tuberous, beautifully shaped, crispy, good for canning, and stored for a long time. Productivity in the greenhouse is up to 28 kg/1 m2.

Parker

– the mid-early hybrid is used for growing in open ground and under temporary film covers. Prone to parthenocarpy (self-pollination). Resistant to cucumber mosaic virus, cladosporiosis, powdery mildew pathogen and root rot. Elegant fruits without bitterness, with excellent taste, pickling. They ripen on the 50th day after emergence.

Artek

– early hybrid (40–42 days), pickling, large-tubercular with black thorns, without bitterness, universal use. Cucumbers weighing 75 g. Recommended for growing in open ground using vertical and horizontal methods. Very crispy, aromatic.

I also recommend new varieties - Gulyai, Russia! The Real Owner, Crispy Bed, Nakhalenok, Shalunishka, Carolina, Zozulya, Tycoon, Christina.

Which is better - variety or hybrid?

Cucumber selection aimed at creating heterotic hybrids has come very far; cucumber is one of those few vegetable crops for which even amateurs prefer hybrids. This is due to the greater advantage of the latter compared to varieties.

Unfortunately, despite the relative cheapness of the seeds, the varieties, unlike modern hybrids, have a number of disadvantages. Of course, even today the varieties have their fans, many gardeners have been growing them for a long time, they are used to them, and besides, some varieties have quite good quality of processed products (some varieties are especially good for pickling). However, they also have many disadvantages: a small number of ovaries on the plant, late fruiting, large fruits, rapid overgrowth and yellowing of greens.

Hybrids differ from varieties in that they form fruits in the absence of pollination; they are called parthenocarpic, according to the type of flowering, hybrids of the female type of flowering (without barren flowers). Typically, gardeners prefer early and mid-season gherkin-type hybrids 6–8 cm long. They mainly choose pickling ones. Based on the nature of the surface of the fruit, it is better to choose finely tuberculate ones. The main criterion: productive and resistant to fungal diseases.

Dear gardeners! Do not try to obtain seeds from hybrids yourself! Otherwise, you risk being left without a harvest! After all, obtaining hybrid seeds is possible only by breeders.

Seedling method

The optimal soil composition for growing cucumber seedlings in greenhouse conditions will be a combination of loam, humus and peat.

Preparation

Preparation for sowing cucumbers in protected soil conditions:

cleaning of plant residues;
greenhouse disinfection;
application of fertilizers and stimulants.

To enrich the soil, ash, superphosphate and special stimulants for pumpkin crops are used.

Sowing and care in the greenhouse

Sowing time: by the time of planting in open ground, the seedlings should be 20-25 days old. The optimal temperature is 20-22° during the day and 13-15° at night.

Caring for sprouts in protected ground:

watering: 2.5-3l/m2);
applying fertilizing (at the stage of appearance of 2 true leaves, water with Agricola Forward or a similar fertilizer, at the stage of 3-4 leaves - fertilize with complex mineral fertilizer);
treatment with a root system growth stimulator (7-10 days after sowing).

Landing on the ground

Plants need fertilizer

According to Ganichkina’s method, the agricultural technology of growing cucumbers from seedlings in a garden bed combines the following points:

plant formation;
watering;
application of fertilizers.

Formation of lashes

To thin out thickened plantings, each individual vine is formed according to the following scheme:

At the level of 3-4 lower leaves, it is necessary to remove all germinating shoots and buds. The green shoots that form at the beginning of the cane stop its growth and productivity.
Remove all side shoots up to 1.5 m from the soil, leaving only fruit ovaries from 4 leaves and above.
From 0.5-1 m above the ground surface they are formed with partial preservation of a side shoot with one leaf and ovaries.
Up to a height of 1.5 m - leave all the fruit ovaries, pinching the side shoots above the second leaf.
Above 1.5 m, pinching is done above the third leaf, preserving the side shoots.
The stem that has outgrown the trellis must be secured around the wire. I pinch its top when it reaches 50-60cm.
Simultaneously with the formation process, it is necessary to remove yellowed, weakened and diseased leaves.

Preparing the greenhouse and seedlings

Due to the fact that protected soil creates favorable conditions not only for plants, but also for their diseases, the greenhouse must be disinfected after harvesting or before planting new plants. This is especially true for amateur gardeners who have only 1 greenhouse on their property, where the same crops are constantly grown.

Causative agents of fungal and viral infections that accidentally enter a greenhouse or greenhouse remain in the soil and on all surfaces in the room, quickly spreading when newly planted plants appear.

O. Ganichkina recommends using solutions for treating greenhouses:

1 tbsp. l. copper sulfate and 60 g of karbofos per 10 liters of water, with the addition of 1-2 tbsp. l. tar soap. Solution consumption - 1 liter per 100 m². All internal surfaces in the greenhouse need to be sprayed.
Dissolve the preparations “Iskra DE” (2 tablets) and “Hom” (1 packet) in 10 liters of water. The consumption of the spraying solution is 1 liter per 10 m².

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Lifehacks from Oktyabrina Ganichkina

How to plant seeds?

Video about choosing seeds for open ground

How to prepare cucumber seeds for planting in open ground?

Advantages and disadvantages

How to grow cucumbers in a barrel (according to Ganichkin)

Seedless method

Preparation

Sowing

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Text of the book “All about tomatoes and cucumbers from Oktyabrina Ganichkina”

Growing cucumbers in open ground

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