Salvia: photos of flowers, when to plant and how to care

Description of salvia, types

All species of this flower, and there are almost 900 of them, are extremely light-loving. Florists call salvia species that are grown exclusively for decorative purposes. Wild-growing individuals are known to everyone under the name “sage”, which is used in cooking and in healing practice.

The shoots of the plant are tetrahedral, erect (sometimes ascending), the height depends on the specific variety, and ranges from 20 to 120 cm. The leaf blades are usually entire, but can also be pinnately dissected. Their outer side is dark green, and the lower side is whitish.

The ends of the shoots are decorated with complex whorled inflorescences, consisting of small flowers and resembling a spike. Sometimes it can look like a panicle and reach a length of 20 cm.

All available types of salvia, depending on biological characteristics and agrotechnical characteristics, can be divided into 3 groups:

• Subtropical species that are cultivated as annuals in the middle zone. They need warmth and constant hydration. May die in light frosts.
• Mediterranean varieties are more frost-resistant and can withstand drought. However, they need loose soil and mineral fertilizers.
• This includes all frost-resistant species . They bloom lushly in the second year, and only need shelter when natural cover is scanty.

Popular varieties

In city flower beds and private flower beds you can often find the bright colors of annual salvia of various colors. Flower growers are most willing to fill their flower beds with the following varieties:

Salvia sparkling

Salvia sparkling is a perennial plant, but in the middle zone it is cultivated as an annual. Compact bushes have a height of 20-80 cm and have fairly dense foliage. The opposite petiolate leaves are ovoid in shape and dark green.

Large flowers of irregular shape are endowed with a double perianth. In addition to the usual red color for this species, others are also often found: pink, white, purple. Salvias bloom from June until the first frost.

The varieties Salvator, Sahara, and Fire Star are very popular.

Salvia vermilion

Straight branching shoots of salvia grow 50-70 cm. The green mass has dense pubescence on the underside, and the front side of the finely serrated leaves is bare. A loose inflorescence of whorled flowers can reach 30 cm in length. Salvia blooms in July and pleases the eye until frost.

Among the popular varieties are: Sherry Bloss, Lady in Red.

Salvia powdery

The pyramidal bush can reach a height of 90 cm. Mealy salvia is quite unpretentious and blooms for a long time. Plants of this species are large - tall peduncles have long inflorescences with 2 centimeter flowers.

Flowering of this type of salvia begins in August. Most often the flowers are blue, but some varieties bloom white.

Flower growers fell in love with the following varieties: Anschuld, Victoria, Strata.

Salvia green

The only decorative variety of green or variegated salvia is Horminum. There are many soft pink flowers on long simple inflorescences. They are very effectively set off by bracts that have rich pink or purple tones.

Popular varieties are: Pink Sandy, Oxford Blue, White Swan.

Salvia whorled

The bush with ascending shoots and dense pubescence is small - only about 40 cm. The leaf blades have an unusual shape; dense whorls contain up to 30 blue-lilac flowers.

The most striking representative of Salvia whorled is the Purple Rain variety.

Salvia dandelionifolia

This herbaceous plant has a basal leaf rosette. Each part of salvia is endowed with a pleasant aroma. The leaves are pinnately dissected, their undersides are pubescent. Simple inflorescences are quite long and can reach 30 cm.

How to grow salvia from seeds

To grow healthy seedlings, gardeners need seeds, soil, container, diligence, and attention.

Preparing seeds for sowing

Since salvia seeds do not need stratification, preparation of planting material is carried out on the eve of planting. Seed material can be purchased or collected personally. Sometimes bagged goods are already pre-processed and granulated; in this case, it does not need pre-planting treatment and is sown directly into the soil.

However, it should be noted that granular seeds need to be planted a little earlier than usual, since it takes some time to dissolve the artificial mineral shell.

Simple seeds are subjected to the following treatments:

• Germination test. Place the seeds in a deep plate with warm water for 1.5 hours. Then the water with floating pacifiers is drained. High-quality seeds are collected at the bottom.
• Disinfection. The grains wrapped in a piece of bandage are kept in manganese for a third of an hour, followed by washing.
• Drying. Before planting, the seeds are dried on a sheet of paper. To prevent the core from drying out, do not place the grains on the battery.

Selection of soil mixture

If you don’t want to buy ready-made soil, it’s easy to prepare it yourself. Salvia puts forward the following requirements for it: nutritional value, lightness, water permeability.

You will need coarse sand, peat and leaf soil. A well-mixed mixture will need to be re-sowed twice:

• Place on a large sieve;
• Place in a fine sieve.

The containers are filled as follows:

• The very bottom is lined with expanded clay, approximately 1 cm thick;
• Half the container is filled with coarse soil;
• Next, add fine soil.

To destroy possible pests, the soil is watered with hot, strong potassium permanganate and left to rest for a week.

Sowing salvia seedlings in containers

Any low container is suitable for salvia seedlings. To prevent stagnation of water, the bottom is pierced several times. Ready-made factory containers already have holes and are equipped with pallets.

• The soil is pre-moistened so that the seeds stick better. Some gardeners mix salvia seeds with sand to ensure more uniform planting and prevent thickening. Granular material is larger and easier to sow, so the seeds are placed in a 3x3 pattern.
• The spread out seeds are lightly sprinkled with earth. Often gardeners simply press them lightly into the soil. The container is covered with glass or film.

Seeds germinate within 8-12 days. The temperature is maintained around +22ºС. The sprouts almost always emerge with a seed cap, and it is advisable to help them get rid of it.

How to sow salvia, the best way - video

Caring for salvia seedlings

The emerged seedlings begin to open gradually, lifting the glass for a short time, increasing it daily.

Lighting

Seedlings need light for 12 hours, so additional lighting is indispensable. The container can be placed on window sills, but be sure to turn on additional phytolamps in the morning and evening.

Humidity and watering

From the moment of sowing and in the future, the soil should not be allowed to dry out. Moisten the seedlings with a spray bottle, or by pouring water into trays, from where it is absorbed into the soil through the drainage holes.

Excess moisture causes rotting of the roots, so it is better to dust the surface with ash.

Feeding

3 weeks after germination it is useful to feed them. Use complex formulations purchased in stores. To activate the growth of salvia, use Fertika and Agricola fertilizers.

Picking

For salvia, as for any seedling, a strong root system is very important. This can be achieved by double picking.

The first peak occurs during the period of 1-1.5 months of plant life. This is not too late, since salvias are slow-growing. In any case, diving is not done earlier than before the appearance of 2 permanent leaves.

Transplantation is usually carried out into the same containers, only at a greater distance. Can also be transplanted into individual containers. The distance is maintained at about 7 cm; deepen to the cotyledon leaves. Picked seedlings should be covered with paper for a couple of days.

3 weeks after the first pick, the procedure is repeated. The containers chosen are sufficiently capacious, since salvia roots grow well.

Picking salvia allows you to solve problems that will be useful to the plant throughout its life:

• Root development is stimulated;
• During picking, it is possible to select the strongest plants;
• Interweaving and, as a consequence, deformation of the roots are prevented;
• When picking, seedlings are examined to identify diseases and prevent them;
• Seedlings that begin to outgrow are buried a little deeper to slow down their growth if it is too early to plant.

After 4-5 leaves appear, the top of the seedling is pinched, causing maximum tillering. A couple of weeks after picking, salvias notice increased growth.

How to properly pick salvia seedlings - video

Growing and care

Growing perennial salvia is not very difficult - caring for it is no different from other plants, with the exception of preparing for winter. Many types and varieties of sage in most Russian regions are grown as annuals (by seedlings). New bushes can be grown again as seedlings or transplanted into a heated room for the winter. Plants are kept at a temperature of 5–10 °C and natural light.

When to plant Salvia perennial flower seeds for seedlings

Perennial sage seedlings are grown at home. Seeds are purchased in advance at the store and sowing begins at the end of February or early March. The specific period depends on the climatic characteristics of the region:

• in the south - in mid-February;
• in the middle zone - in early March;
• in the Urals, in Siberia, in the North-West - in the second ten days of March.

Soil and seed preparation

Seeds are planted in common boxes or containers, which can be covered with film or a lid. Before landing, you need to prepare by performing several steps:

1. The seeds are treated with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate, then kept for several hours in Epin, Kornevin or other growth stimulants.
2. Containers are also treated with potassium permanganate or rinsed with boiling water.
3. The soil is made up of surface soil, humus and peat in a ratio of 2:1:1 (can be purchased at the store). Treat with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, fungicide or hydrogen peroxide. Then water it and dry it at room temperature.

How to sow seeds and care for seedlings

Algorithm for planting perennial sage seeds:

1. First, perlite or small stones are placed at the bottom of the container as a drainage layer.
2. Then fill the entire volume with soil, not reaching the top edge by 2 cm.
3. Make furrows 1–2 cm deep at a distance of 3–5 cm and plant perennial sage seeds, sprinkle with soil.
4. Moisten, cover with a lid and put in a warm place (23–25 degrees).
5. After the shoots emerge, remove the lid and continue watering.
6. As soon as 2–3 leaves appear, the seedlings are transferred to individual containers.
7. A few days later, water with complex mineral fertilizer.
8. Grow at room temperature. At night it should be a little cooler - 18–19 °C, so that salvia seedlings do not stretch.
9. 2 weeks before transplantation, seedlings begin to be taken out onto the balcony or outside for hardening: first for 15–30 minutes, then the time is gradually increased to several hours.

Seedlings of perennial sage are picked after the appearance of 2–3 true leaves

Important! Seeds are planted in open ground in mid-October or (in the south) in early November.

Humus and peat are added to the dug up soil, planting material is introduced and covered with dry foliage. Seeds begin to germinate when the soil warms up to 20 °C, but germination will not exceed 50%.

Planting in open ground and subsequent care

Heat-loving salvia is transferred to the ground only at the end of May or even at the beginning of June. It is desirable that the night temperature is consistently above 15 °C, and the soil warms up to 18–20 °C.

When choosing a place to plant sage, special attention should be paid to good lighting. Salvia loves sunny and dry places. Stagnation of moisture has a bad effect on the health of the plant, so it is better to choose hills instead of lowlands. The soil must be quite fertile, so you need to prepare it first:

1. Clean and dig up the area two weeks before planting.
2. Apply humus 2–3 kg per 1 m2 or complete fertilizer 50–60 g per 1 m2.
3. If the soil is heavy (clayey), add 200–300 g of coarse sand per 1 m2.

Read more Salvia brilliantis (sparkling sage): description, photo of flowers, sowing, care

It is better to plant in cloudy weather. Sequencing:

1. Dig several shallow holes at intervals of 20–30 cm or more (depending on the width of the bush and decorative purposes).
2. If groundwater approaches the soil surface, be sure to lay a drainage layer on the bottom (pebbles, expanded clay, broken brick).
3. The seedlings are rooted, the soil is filled in, and compacted a little.
4. Water generously with pre-settled water.
5. Lay a layer of mulch (peat, humus, straw).

Mulching allows the soil to remain moist much longer, so additional watering will only be needed in severe drought.
In the future, care for perennial sage is standard. It is watered periodically (the soil should have time to dry out), adding liquid organic fertilizers (humate, slurry or mullein infusion) 2-3 times per season. In early September, you can additionally feed with complex mineral fertilizer. The soil is loosened after each watering.

For the winter, the bushes are dug up and transplanted into containers that are stored in a cool room (5–10 °C). If the plant is winter-hardy, it is completely cut off (under the stump) and mulched with leaves, humus, spruce branches and other materials. In March, the mulch is removed to prevent the plants from rotting.

When to replant salvia in open ground

Like all heat-loving crops, salvia does not like frost, so it is planted only after stable heat has developed. In the middle regions this is approximately the first ten days of June.

The planting holes need to be spacious so that the roots do not clump together. Add superphosphate or ash and a handful of humus to each hole. It is better to plant during periods of less sun activity, or shade the seedlings for 3 days.

When choosing a place for salvia, you need to pay attention to some nuances and immediately make adjustments for the location:

• Salvia is prone to lodging. The seedlings are either covered with soil or planted thicker.
• The activity of flower development may interfere with other plants. You need to maintain a distance of 30 cm.

Diseases and pests

Almost all varieties of Salvia flowers, both ordinary and decorative, are highly resistant to many diseases. Therefore, flowers very rarely get sick. If flowers are affected by fungal diseases, stop watering for several days and treat the plants with antifungal drugs.

However, insect pests often choose lush, large bushes as a refuge. Thrips, whiteflies, mites, and aphids can settle in a flowerbed. Slugs and snails really like the delicate foliage.

Snails and slugs must be removed manually. You can collect pests, or you can arrange traps or bait for them.

Other insects will have to be controlled exclusively with insecticides. During active insect control, it is advisable to limit watering.

Possible problems with seedlings and their solutions

Salvias are practically not susceptible to any diseases. The damage is caused by insects and slugs, which can be successfully combated using traditional methods. Often, when growing seedlings, gardeners are faced with some unpleasant situations:

• Shoots do not appear for a long time . This situation can be observed if the swollen seeds were still overdried. It is best to sow again, since even if the previous seeds sprout, the sprouts will not be completely healthy.
• The sprouts stay in their caps for a long time. Seed skins remain on plants for a long time if the seed material is not of high quality. The seedlings should be slightly moistened and, using a toothpick, help get rid of the seed coat. Then the seedlings are fed with complex microelements.
• Flowering is delayed or completely absent . If the plant has pale foliage and the stems are very elongated, it means the whole problem is a lack of light. Salvias are quite demanding about this: no light - no color. If the problem is noticed at the beginning of summer, then you can try to transplant to a sunnier area. If the bush develops normally, the color is natural, rich, and there are few or no buds, then the salvia is simply fattening from excess nitrogen. In this case, it is sprayed with superphosphate.

Propagation by cuttings

When propagating Salvia flowers using cuttings, only young shoots 5-10 cm long are used. Cut the branches with a sharp knife or scissors just below the node. Place the shoots in water with the addition of Kornevin. Root formation occurs within 2-3 weeks.

When the roots reach a length of 1-2 cm, they can be transplanted into the ground, into small pots with a diameter of at least 10 cm. The optimal air temperature when growing plants should be +20˚С +22˚С.

Flowers need to be watered and sprayed regularly. Late May - early June is the ideal time to plant Salvia in open ground. But first it needs to be hardened off, and only then planted in the garden.

How to properly care for salvia in summer

Salvia is very easy to care for. Simple standard procedures include watering, weeding, mulching, loosening, and fertilizing.

What to feed for abundant flowering

In order for salvia to delight with an abundance of color, it needs proper nutrition. In the flowerbed, flowers are fertilized 5-7 days after planting. The menu offers her growth stimulants and minerals. As soon as the plant begins to form buds, the next feeding is carried out.

Salvia will bloom abundantly if it manages to develop its above-ground part well. Like nothing else, this is facilitated by nitrogen, found in proper quantities in bird droppings, humus, and manure.

The infusion of such organic matter should be poured over the transplanted salvias, and in a very short time they will become much healthier. Flowering is also promoted by potassium, which helps absorb water and phosphorus, which ensures normal development.

Salvia Cassiopeia

Some flower growers who do not have the proper experience and are poorly versed in various fertilizers can use tips from manufacturers. Many nutritional compositions speak for themselves: Ovary, Bud, and so on.

Experienced flower growers prefer traditional methods to all factory-made fertilizers. To prolong and enhance flowering, they use an ash solution. Also pour boiling water over the skin of bananas and peel potatoes for a week.

Before the buds open, it is useful for salvia to water it with water infused with egg shells.

Reproduction methods

Salvia reproduces in several ways. Perennial varieties can be divided from the rhizome, propagated by cuttings, and sown by seeds. But one-year-olds and biennials are propagated exclusively by seeds: direct sowing and through seedlings.

Seeds are sown in spring and autumn, before winter. However, there are varieties that can only be grown using seedlings. These are all varieties belonging to the type of salvia sparkling.

When and how to collect your seeds

High-quality material will be obtained exclusively from varietal flowers. Fading inflorescences are cut and dried. Do this not in the sun. The inflorescences are laid out under a canopy in the fresh air or in a ventilated room. You can collect a lot of seeds from dried seed pods.

How to grow perennial salvia

These flowers are planted once, and they will delight you with their blooms every year. There is no need to tinker with seedlings or prepare beds for direct sowing every time. Perennials are planted in metropolitan areas, in dachas, and can be found in meadows under natural growing conditions.

They are distinguished by a more powerful root system, which allows the plant to take care of itself, extracting precious moisture from the deep layers of the soil. Their stems are thicker, often with already lignified shoots.

Popular types

The most popular perennials planted in city flower beds are:

• Salvia oakberry. The stems of the plant are relatively low - only up to 60 centimeters. The lower petiole plates are always larger than the sessile ones located above. The inflorescences consist of several lateral branches.

The standard predominant color of the flowers is blue-violet, but the rather large purple bracts often catch the eye. The flowering of the Salvia oak grove species lasts 2.5-3 months: from late June to mid-September.

Plumosa

The most popular varieties are Amethyst (pink-violet), Mainakht (blue-violet), Plumosa (lavender).

• Salvia sticky. The bushes grow quite large - almost 1 meter. The flower has a large number of pubescent glandular shoots. The leaves are more like triangles of yellow-green color with a serrated edge. Salvias bloom towards the end of summer and bloom until frost.

Salvia glutinosa

• Salvia
  nemorosa '
  Rose Queen'
  .
  The low half-meter bush is distinguished by its long flowering time. Spike-shaped inflorescences can have different shades, depending on the variety

Salvia Rose Queen
Popular varieties are: snow-white Snow Hill, and dwarf varieties - Blue Queen (lavender), Rose Queen (pink).

Perennials include popular species of Ethiopian salvia and meadow salvia.

Features of cultivation and care

Perennial salvias are more difficult to care for. Many inexperienced flower growers are often perplexed about this, because, it would seem, there is no need to bother with seedlings and the plants are much hardier. However, not everything is so simple: perennials need sanitary and formative pruning, preparation for successful wintering.

In the spring, the bush is formed by cutting off shoots that are too elongated, not allowing them to become bare. After flowering has finished, all inflorescences should be removed. Just before the cold weather, all the old stems are cut off from the plant, leaving small stumps with buds, as well as young greenery.

It is advisable to cover the salvia for winter dormancy - if the winter has little snow and frost, the roots of the crop may be damaged and the flowering next year will not be so generous. Flower beds are covered with sawdust, spruce branches, and dry leaves.

Salvia in the flowerbed and flower beds - photo

Salvia is a very popular flower. It is most often planted in flower beds and flower beds. Salvia looks good in flowerpots or garden containers, which can be placed on balconies and well-lit garden areas. Bright salvia goes well with many types of ornamental plants: lobelia, marigolds, petunia, zinnia, ageratum, alyssum, silver cineraria.

Salvia combined with lobelia

Salvia with marigolds

Perennial Salvia

Salvia with cineraria

Salvia brillianti

Salvia horminum

Salvia Purple

Application in landscape design

Perennial sage is one of the most original plants in the garden. It is decorative thanks to the tall paniculate inflorescences that densely cover the bush, as well as pleasant green foliage of different shapes and sizes. This flower can be used in single plantings and in compositions with other ornamental crops:

• feverfew;
• Kochia broom;
• cineraria maritima;
• dwarf conifers.

Below are several interesting options for using perennial sage in garden landscape design:

1. A flower path of perennial salvia and other ornamental plants along the fence.

2. A single planting of perennial sage next to a lawn decorated with stones.

3. Multi-tiered flowerbed next to the bench (1 - David's buddleia, 2 - yarrow, 3 - oak sage, 4 - sedum, 5 - chrysanthemum, 6 - red sage, 7 - phlox, 8 - echinacea).

4. Decoration of the recreation area.

5. Salvia sparkling against the background of the lawn.