Planting grapes: how to plant correctly, in spring, summer and autumn, diagram, pruning, propagation, tips, care, where is the best place to plant grapes on the site

Best place to land

Since grapes are a heat-loving plant, it is worth choosing a place that is most protected from wind and frost. A well-lit area on the south or west side of the house, terrace or gazebo is suitable.

It is strictly not recommended to plant plants next to tall trees that provide shade. If the grapes are placed near buildings, it is necessary to retreat about a meter from the walls so that water flowing from the roofs does not fall on the bushes. If the climate is not very suitable for planting grapes, then it is better to grow them in a greenhouse.

Recommendations for beginners

Planting grapes involves a number of activities designed to ensure that the maximum amount of harvest is obtained. Caring for a plant in open ground includes: watering, fertilizing, pruning and other regular activities.

Watering

The first watering is recommended 10-15 days after planting the grapes. Then the procedure should be repeated every 2 weeks. If the weather is hot outside, its frequency should be increased. For watering, you need to use 5-10 liters of warm soft water per bush.

Watering cuttings after planting is such an important topic that we described this process in a separate article.

Trimming

The main purpose of proper first pruning is to shape the direction of growth of the vine. To do this in the fall, it is necessary to shorten the shoot by 2 eyes so that a pair of healthy and strong shoots are formed on it. More details about shaping pruning in a separate article.

Selection of scheme

The grape planting scheme is based on 2 parameters - the pitch between the bushes and the distance between the rows. Her choice depends on:

Varieties - vigorous bushes need a large area.
Soil fertility - the higher the indicator, the larger the plants will be.
The expected load on the bush is the size of the support.

Reference! There should be at least 2-3 m between bushes, 1.5-2 m between rows.

Variety selection

The choice of variety depends on:

climate of the growing region;
landing time;
the ripening period of the vines;
desired characteristics.

Thus, for cultivation in central Russia, preference should be given to frost-resistant, early-ripening varieties of grapes with bisexual flowers.

Soil preparation

The soil should be dug up to a depth of 0.6-1 m in such a way as to swap its surface and lower layers; this can be done in advance or during the preparation of holes and trenches. This is especially necessary when grape after grape is planted on the same land. In addition, it is important to pay attention to the permeability, acidity and fertility of the soil, which can be corrected by adding additional elements and achieving the optimal soil composition for grapes.

Place on site

For a vineyard, the choice of planting site is very important. Therefore, you should choose sunny areas protected from strong gusts of wind:

southern or southwestern slopes;
places near the southern walls of buildings;
open areas with plenty of light.

Reference! It is necessary to avoid planting near tall trees and between buildings - they create excessive shadow.

Landing dates

How to plant grapes correctly so that they grow and bear fruit well, what season is best for this? Grapes can be planted both in spring and autumn. The landing methods in both cases are practically no different.

The only difference is that in the fall it is necessary to cover the seedlings before the onset of frost.

Annual seedlings are planted at the end of April and until mid-May. Vegetating green plants are usually rooted in early June. The best time in autumn is the end of October.

Which site to choose for summer planting?

It is the location where the vineyard is planted that will become the determining factor for its full growth; it determines how productive the vine will be and how steadfastly it will resist disease. Plantings of light-loving berries should not be blocked by trees or other objects that provide shade. If you still plan to plant grapes next to a fence or house, then only the south side will do.

He is also afraid of cold and wind, so care should be taken to create natural obstacles for them. This also applies to areas located in lowlands - cold air masses will settle there in winter, and the plants will freeze.

Grapes do not have strict requirements for the soil - they can grow both on chernozem soil and on sandy soil, the rules of planting and care will only differ slightly. There are only two mandatory conditions: a deep layer of soil with good drainage, and its acidity within 6.5-7 PH. Acidity can be reduced by adding 200 g of lime per m2.

Soil composition

The grapes are not too picky about the composition of the soil. In principle, any area is suitable for it, except for places with high humidity. It thrives in black soil and light soil. It is better to choose sandy and slightly rocky soils, which will definitely not be waterlogged - too much water is very harmful to the roots.

Clay or peaty soil is not very suitable. How to plant grapes in such a plot? In this case, expanded clay, crushed stone or broken bricks are poured onto the bottom of the planting pit. In addition, groundwater should not lie higher than one and a half meters from the surface.

Preparing grape seedlings for planting

The next question is the quality of seedlings. What should a seedling normally look like? How long should the roots be, how thick should the vine be? The photo shows a one-year-old grape seedling of good quality:

The diameter of last year's growth should be at least 5-6mm, and it should have at least four normally developed ocelli. The length of the seedling trunk is at least 30cm, normally 35-45cm. A short trunk is, in principle, acceptable if the total length of the seedling is compensated by last year’s longer growth (vine). Now pay attention to the root system; in the photo the lower tier is already partially trimmed. It is important that the seedling has at least three to four living roots with a thickness of at least 2-3mm. There are clearly more of them on the presented seedling. The fact is that roots thinner than 2mm usually die off in winter; you can verify this by making cuts; the cut should be white. Seedlings with fewer but thicker roots are much more viable than those with a huge “beard” of fine dead hairs. Preparing a grape seedling for planting involves soaking and renewing root sections. First, we trim the roots, and at the same time make sure that they are alive and healthy. We cut out everything thin and dead with pruning shears, we get this look:

As you can see, I completely removed the roots of the second tier; they will grow again later; in the first year, the development of the lower tier is more important to us. The lower ones are cut quite short, and don’t let this bother anyone, there is no point in leaving long one-year-old roots, they do not absorb anything on their own, but are only a conductor to young suction roots that constantly grow during the growing season. In this case, the larger diameter of last year's roots is much preferable than their length. New suction roots will begin to grow from where last year's roots were cut.

That's all the preparation of the seedling, in this form it can be planted. If there are doubts about humidity, the seedling may have dried out during storage or shipment; after pruning the roots, put it in water to soak for a couple of days, then plant it.

I would like to draw your attention to the fact that not all varieties in the school produce powerful roots in the first year; sometimes seedlings can be much weaker than shown in the photo. This may be due both to the conditions under which they are grown and to varietal characteristics. There is no need to rush to reject a seedling if the roots are not thick enough or the growth is weak. Make sections of the roots and the vine, make sure that the vine on the cut is bright green and the roots are white, which means the seedling is alive and can be planted. Pay special attention to such bushes, do not immediately fill the planting hole to the top, leave a pit, water with warm water to better warm the soil, and the result will exceed expectations. In my practice, there were cases when I had to plant seedlings with a vine slightly thicker than a matchstick and a weak root; with normal care, they gave an increase in the first year, which allowed me to get 2-3 kg of a signal harvest in the second year.

Selection of planting material

Developed two-year-old seedlings can take root. In addition, cuttings of plants that have taken root are used.

The seedlings take root better and do not cause gardeners any trouble. However, cuttings are cheaper and easier to transport and store. Those who do not have experience in gardening are recommended to purchase planting material from a nursery.

Criteria for choosing a healthy seedling

It is necessary to buy seedlings from experienced winegrowers in the nursery, who offer tested varieties for sale. Plants may be ready to plant or need to be grown in a pot, box or other container. Rules for choosing high-quality woody material:

the root system must be developed and strong, have 4-6 main roots;
seedling length is at least 30 cm;
roots and trunk have no damage, cracks, scratches;
When cut, the roots of the seedling have a whitish or milky tint;
The vine is green when cut, the shoot secretes juice.

Note! Buy the grape variety that is climatically suitable for the region.

If the nursery offers vegetative specimens, the quality of the leaf blade should be assessed. There should be no light, black, or yellow spots on the leaves. When purchasing contagious grapes, the gardener risks the entire garden. For grafted cuttings, the graft should encircle the entire stem. If there are gaps on the pole, the seedling may not take root.

Features of spring planting

Hardened seedlings take root better and suffer less disease. Plants in containers should be kept outdoors for a couple of weeks before planting. You should start with 15 minutes, gradually increasing the time. During the first week they need to be protected from the sun.

Plants can be planted when the soil is warm enough. It is better to do this on a cloudy day or in the evening.

Caring for grapes after planting

The key to obtaining a large harvest is not only proper planting, but also subsequent care of the plants. Basic care for young grapes involves performing standard procedures, including fertilizing, watering, protective treatment and pruning.

Fertilizers

If, when transferring seedlings to open ground, fertilizing was immediately applied, then over the next 3-4 years additional fertilizers for grapes are not required. For intensive ripening, mature plantings need to receive nutrients that are not always present in the soil.

The fruits require the following components:

Nitrogen. The element is responsible for the growth of foliage and shoots and is introduced into the ground in the spring, when the growing season begins.
Phosphorus. At the very beginning of grape flowering, phosphorus fertilizers contribute to the appearance of new inflorescences and the ripening of clusters with a large number of berries.
Potassium. With the onset of autumn, when it is necessary to accelerate the ripening of vines before the arrival of the first frost, the addition of potassium chloride is required, which stimulates fruit growth.
Copper. Fertilizing with the addition of copper particles increases the resistance of shoots to cold and drought.
Bor. The use of boric acid in the soil helps to increase the sugar content of the crop and accelerates the ripening process.

Watering

During the first year of development, a significant part of the seedlings may die due to lack of moisture in the soil. Developing roots require a constant supply of fluid to actively form.

The first watering after planting the seedlings is carried out 10-12 days later. It is recommended to water abundantly in the early morning or evening so that the moisture does not quickly evaporate under the influence of sunlight and high temperature if the grapes are planted in the warm season. Under each bush, pour 2-3 buckets of clean, settled water, warmed to room temperature.

The next watering is required after 2 weeks, provided there is no rain during this period. Each subsequent watering is carried out as the soil dries.

Treatment

With negative external influences, unsuitable climate or excessive soil moisture, there is a risk of developing infectious diseases or the appearance of harmful insects. To maintain productivity and combat sources of fruit infection, it is necessary to treat the bushes with drugs from the fungicidal and insecticidal categories. The use of drugs to repel pests is also allowed for preventive purposes.

Formation

To give a decorative and neat shape, the crowns of the bushes must be pruned. You can form a vine in spring or autumn. When pruning vegetation on the eve of winter, you should cover the bushes after the procedure to protect them from frost. With the onset of the first warming, the shoots will begin to grow rapidly and form young branches. The spring formation of the crown helps provide access to the sun and air to the fruits. During the warm season, the cut shoots have time to adapt and bring a good harvest by autumn.

Spring planting technology

How to plant grapes from containers in spring? For planting, you need to dig holes about 80 cm deep and wide. The dug soil is carefully inspected, freeing it from pest larvae and weeds, rotted manure with compost and complex fertilizer are added to it, and a little wood ash is added.

The finished soil is poured into the holes and filled with two buckets of water. After the soil has dried, the hardened seedlings are released from the packaging, removed along with the earthen lump, and placed in a hole so that the lower bud is 10 cm below the edge of the soil. Then the plant is covered with earth, stopping 5 cm below the bud.

The earth is compacted manually, ensuring that there are no voids. Do not compact the soil too tightly: it should remain loose enough to allow air to pass through.

After planting, the bush is watered with warm water. It is better to cover the tree trunk circle with mulch.

Attention: grapes always need support. Gardeners use stakes or pipes to support young plants.

What soil and planting depth is needed?

Before planting grapes in open ground, you need to make sure that the soil is suitable in structure and composition for growing berries. The best option is soil with a high content of crushed stone or coarse sand, since such soil quickly warms up, allows air to pass through and is less susceptible to drought. Grapes grown on such soil have distinct taste characteristics.

Autumn planting of cuttings

Not all novice gardeners know how to properly plant grapes in the fall. Cuttings are harvested in October, and in more northern regions even earlier - at the end of September.

Smooth central sections of shoots no older than two years are suitable for cutting. It should feel firm to the touch. To cut a shoot, you need sharp garden shears - the cut should be even and smooth.

On cuttings 20 cm long and 5-10 mm thick, 2 to 4 live buds are left. They are rooted in moist soil at a distance of 15 cm between them, after planting they are shed abundantly with water. To protect against frost, a polyethylene film is stretched over the plants at a height of 35 cm, secured to supports. The protection is removed in the spring, after the frosts end and warm weather sets in.

Methods of planting seedlings

There are different ways to plant grapes. Planting options differ in the method of site preparation, the type of planting material used and other features.

Classical

The most common is the classic scheme. It involves sequentially performing the following actions:

In the fall, several holes are dug up to 80 cm deep with a distance of at least 2 m from each other. It is necessary to prepare the hole in advance, since then the soil will begin to settle.
A drainage layer 10 cm thick is laid at the bottom of the pit.
The cuttings harvested in the fall are cut from below and kept for two days in a growth stimulator at room temperature.
The cuttings are moved into a container with clean water to form roots and young shoots, after which they are grown in seedling pots.
Seedlings with a closed root system are transferred to open ground when the ground warms to 16 degrees.
The soil is covered with a layer of mulch and watered with plenty of warm water.

On the trellis

The structure of grapevines is similar to vines and requires support. Growing in wild conditions, the plant twines around nearby trees. To control the direction of growth, you should install a trellis, which can have a different shape and number of planes. The support consists of several pillars connected to each other with wire.

During the first years of the plant's life, it is enough to just tie the vines to the posts. With further growth, the grapes are placed on a horizontal trellis in such a way as to alternately wrap around both wires. If one support is missing, you can install another one, leaving about 40-45 cm between the rows.

On the ridges

The method of growing in beds is valued by gardeners for its low labor costs when fighting weeds and the rapid warming of the earth. To prepare the ridges, you need to follow these steps step by step:

dig a trench 10 m long to a depth of 30 cm;
fill the ditch with earth mixed with sand, crushed stone and fertilizers so that the beds rise 20-25 cm;
protect the beds with covering material or cover with a dense layer of mulch;
deepen the roots of the seedlings 40-45 cm from the surface of the beds.

In the greenhouse

The climatic conditions artificially created in the greenhouse are most favorable for the intensive growth and development of grapes. Due to the high temperature, the vines begin to ripen and bear fruit earlier. When planting in a greenhouse, it is necessary to prepare the soil by analogy with other methods. Cuttings should be rooted in advance in separate containers at room temperature.

The distance between plantings in the greenhouse should be at least 1.5 m between each bush. It is enough to water the plants at intervals of 1 time per week.

In containers

The container method prolongs the growing season of seedlings, which is most appropriate when grown in cool regions. The essence of the method is to plant seedlings that have formed roots in bags made of dense polyethylene without a bottom. The packages are placed inside a pallet or container covered with film.

Before the first buds form, seedlings must be kept warm. As the soil dries, the sprouts are watered generously. Grapes should be transferred to open ground after the risk of frost has disappeared.

Moldavian

Planting grapes according to the Moldavian method is used when there are vines more than 60 cm long. The growing process is carried out according to the following instructions:

With the onset of spring, it is necessary to twist a ring from the vine and secure the turns with a rope.
Having laid the vine in a prepared hole on the surface, leave 1-2 buds. To prevent them from drying out, a handful of earth is left above the end of the vine.
By the autumn season, the vines grow and produce their first harvest the following year.

Thickening

In hot and dry weather conditions, a thickened growing method is used. Up to 7 grape bushes are planted on a square of land. This eliminates the need for tying and creating additional support. The main advantage of the thickening method is saving space on the site and reducing labor costs. The disadvantage is that in the absence of proper care, infectious diseases will arise on thickened bushes that can reduce yields.

Summer landing

How to plant grapes correctly in the summer - after all, this season there are a lot of vegetative seedlings that were obtained during spring pruning. They are sold grown in containers.

The only thing to be wary of in the summer is the roots drying out due to hot weather. However, in June the soil is not yet very hot, and by this time the seedling has about five mature buds. Cool summers allow plants to be planted even in July. They choose the cloudiest day for this. The grapes are first hardened by taking them outside for 2-3 weeks, and 2 days before planting they are watered abundantly.

On the day when you need to plant grapes, the seedlings are removed from the container along with a lump of earth. Two buckets of water are poured into the planting holes, the shoots are cut to 2-3 buds, and the tendrils are removed. A mound is formed at the bottom of the hole, the seedling is placed on it and sprinkled with soil. After slightly compacting it, the first watering is carried out. After planting, the soil is mulched with humus.

The young plant is provided with regular watering through a drainage tube that is installed in the hole. With the onset of heat, the grapes must be protected from the sun, and by the end of summer the apical buds must be removed so that the vine ripens faster by autumn. For the winter, the plant is covered with film and the soil is mulched.

How to plant grapes correctly: step-by-step instructions

When planting, it is advisable to follow a few simple rules, following which you can grow high-yielding grape bushes:

In the prepared area, you need to make a breakdown, identifying places for digging planting holes.
The standard placement scheme is row spacing 2-2.5 m; the distance between bushes in a row is 1.75-2 m (depending on the vigor of plant growth).
A hole is dug with a diameter of 60-70 cm, 10-15 cm deeper than the length of the seedling.
1-2 kg of humus or compost, 50-60 g of superphosphate, 40-50 g of nitrogen fertilizers and 30-35 g of potassium salt are added to the bottom.
Immediately drive one and a half meter stakes with a diameter of 4 cm.
An earthen mound is formed in the center of the hole, on which a seedling is placed on the southern side of the stake with the heel part so that 2-3 eyes are below the soil level, and the roots are evenly located to the sides and down the mound.
The hole is filled with soil up to half the length of the seedling, followed by trampling and watering (2-3 buckets of water per plant).
After absorbing the water, the seedling is tied to a peg, and the hole is finally filled with loose soil. In the spring, 2-3 holes located below the soil level are left open, in the fall they are completely buried and an additional shelter is built.
The final pruning of the planted plant with the removal of shoots above the soil level is carried out in the current or next season, after the end of spring frosts.

When placing a seedling with OCS in a hole, the roots are evenly distributed in all directions

According to reviews from amateur gardeners, if it is necessary to plant two seedlings, cuttings (chubuks) or vines 1.5-2 m long in one hole, they are usually placed at a distance of 50 cm from each other and tied to individual stakes.

Advantages and disadvantages

When discussing the pros and cons of summer planting, it is worth noting only one problem that you will have to face - dry soil, which prevents plants from taking root normally. But it can be easily solved with timely watering. In general, summer planting has many advantages:

simplicity of the process - you just need to dig and prepare a planting hole, and then move the rooted cuttings there along with the soil;
plants with closed roots take root better and faster;
by summer the soil will definitely warm up to the required temperature, and sudden frosts or other vagaries of the weather are completely excluded;
in summer, pests are no longer so active, so the risk of insects destroying young shoots is reduced;
During the summer, the young plant will be able to grow stronger, grow its root system and vegetative mass, which will allow it to easily survive the first winter.

Preparation of planting holes

It is best to prepare holes in the fall, but if this does not happen, you can start preparatory work half a month before the planned planting. They dig holes measuring 70x70x70 cm and prepare a nutritious soil mixture to fill it. In total, for each hole you will need 4 buckets of humus, 2 sand and 2 liter jars of wood ash, preferably from fruit trees.

You need to pour half the amount of all components into the hole, add 2 buckets of earth, and mix everything well. The hole will be about half full.