Description and characteristics of the cucumber variety Murashka f1: planting and care

Description of the variety Murashka F1

Murashka F1 cucumber is a first generation parthenocarpic hybrid. It was created in the agro division. In 2003, it was entered into the State Register of Russia, but work to improve it continued for several more years. Today this is one of the favorite hybrids of gardeners. You can grow cucumbers of this type in open ground, greenhouses, greenhouses, on a balcony or veranda.

Cucumbers need 43 days to ripen. The central stem is indeterminate. Few side shoots are formed and they grow small. Internodes are short. The leaves are medium in size, with a smooth leaf blade, and light green in color. 4-6 fruits can begin in the axils of the leaves.

Zelentsy grow small, 11-13 cm long and weighing 90-110 g

Important!

Hybrid Murashka F1 cannot be propagated by seeds obtained from grown cucumbers. Seeds for planting need to be purchased in stores annually.

Cucumbers grow small, 11-13 cm long and weighing 90-110 g. Cucumbers grow in the shape of a cylinder. The tubercles on the greens are large, with black spines. The skin is green, but the tip area is light green. The taste is pleasant, with a sweet aftertaste.

Description and characteristics

The hybrid is recommended for growing in a greenhouse and under film, but in areas with a warm climate it can be planted in open beds, in which case the bushes need protection from direct rays of the sun. Murashka tolerates short-term heat well, and during cold weather and frequent rains it does not stop setting greens. The ripening period is early (38–45 days after germination).

Attention! Murashka is a parthenocarpic hybrid, which means it bears fruit even when grown on a windowsill.

The bush is vigorous, indeterminate, the number of lashes is average, the lateral branches are determinate, the internodes are shortened. 2–4 green leaves are formed in the axils; the flowers are female. There are a lot of leaves, the plates are medium-sized, dark green, smooth. Zelentsy are cylindrical, from 90 to 120 g, about 10–14 cm long, with large tubercles. The color of cucumbers is gradient from light green at the nose to darker towards the base. Light stripes from the nose reach almost to the middle of the green. The skin is thin, soft, the thorns are black and prickly.

The purpose of the variety is universal; the taste of fresh cucumbers is slightly inferior to salad varieties, although it received a tasting score of 5 points. The pulp is sweetish, aromatic, juicy, moderately dense, no bitterness. The hybrid is suitable for salting, pickling, and preparing winter salads. Cucumbers are set before autumn frosts; on average, about 12 kg of cucumbers are harvested from 1 m² (with a standard planting scheme).

Main advantages:

• marketability, excellent taste and versatility in use. Pickled cucumbers do not become soft, even when cut into assorted vegetables;
• extended fruiting period;
• growing in greenhouses, greenhouses and at home;
• immunity to cladosporiosis and powdery mildew;
• self-pollinating;
• bouquet type of flowering;
• male buds appear rarely;
• high productivity;
• absence of bitterness and emptiness;
• greens do not spoil during transportation;
• resistance to temperature changes, short-term cold snaps and heat.

The hybrid has few disadvantages, the most significant being weak immunity to peronosporiasis (downy mildew) and root rot. Another disadvantage is that the greens quickly outgrow, acquire a barrel-shaped shape, and the seeds become rough. The harvest is harvested daily; when the vines are overloaded with mature cucumbers, the new ovaries dry out. You cannot collect seeds from Murashka f1 yourself, since in hybrid varieties the viable grain does not ripen.

Characteristics of cucumbers

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Cucumbers of the Murashka F1 variety are among the sought-after species. What qualities are they chosen for?

• The hybrid is early ripening, self-pollinating.
• Plants are suitable for growing in open and closed ground.
• Unpretentious to soil and care. This variety can be grown on any type of soil, as long as the acidity is neutral.
• Murashka F1 cucumbers do not produce barren flowers.
• The hybrid is immune to many diseases.
• The taste is pleasant, rich, without bitterness. Murashka cucumber is suitable for preparing preserves, pickling and salads.

Murashka F1 cucumbers do not produce empty flowers

Important!

Only with proper care can you get a large harvest of Murashka F1 cucumbers.

• Productivity is high, fruiting is extended. From each bush you can remove up to 7 kg of greens per season.
• The crop is suitable for transportation over long distances.
• Zelentsy of commercial quality.

Gardeners also consider the fact that the hybrid does not require pollination to be a huge advantage. Cucumbers grow in large quantities even indoors, which is very convenient.

Description

Murashka f1 cucumber is a hybrid that does not require pollination by insects, which simplifies its cultivation in greenhouse conditions. Bushes are not limited in growth. There are many leaves, their surface is smooth. The ovary is formed from female flowers. Fruiting type is bouquet, internodes are short. One node forms from three to six ovaries.

Distinctive features

Externally, cucumbers have the same cylindrical shape, pronounced tubercles and dark prickly spines (see photo). The color of the vegetables is green, becoming light green from the base to the tip. There are light streaks that don't reach the end of the cucumber. Another distinctive feature is its thin peel. The fruit pulp is crispy and does not taste bitter.

Composition and properties

Almost 95% of a cucumber consists of structured water. The vegetable perfectly quenches thirst. The remaining 5-7% contains useful minerals and vitamins: A, B1, B2, C, E, H, PP. In addition, the composition includes:

• starch;
• fructose;
• glucose;
• calcium;
• carotene;
• potassium;
• phosphorus;
• sodium;
• magnesium;
• iodine;
• ascorbic, caffeic and folic acids.

Calorie content per 100 g of product is 15 kcal:

• proteins – 0.8 g;
• fats – 0.1 g;
• carbohydrates – 3.0 g.

Characteristics

The formation of side shoots is not intensive. Plants bear fruit for a long time.

One bush growing in open ground produces up to 7 kg of harvest, and in a greenhouse – up to 12 kg. The collected fruits remain fresh for a long time and have an excellent crunchy taste. The average weight of a vegetable is 90-100 g, length is up to 10-12 cm. But the plant also produces gherkins, which reach 7-8 cm.

Did you know? Cucumber is one of the oldest vegetables in the world. It was known more than 6000 years ago.

Disadvantages of the Murashka hybrid

Murashka F1 cucumbers also have disadvantages, but there are not many of them.

• The plant is indeterminate - the main vine grows very long, so it is difficult to grow this variety without good support or trellis.
• The hybrid is susceptible to a disease such as peronosporosis. He often suffers from root rot.
• You cannot propagate Murashka F1 with seeds collected from grown green plants, because it is a first-generation hybrid.

You cannot propagate Murashka F1 with seeds collected from grown green plants.

It should also be taken into account that when growing these cucumbers using the seedling method, the yield will be higher. If you sow seeds immediately in open ground or in a greenhouse, the plants will take longer to develop and the yield will decrease.

Important!

Crop yields are negatively affected by sudden temperature changes between night and day.

Planting cucumbers

Planting the crop is no different from planting other varieties of cucumbers. The only difference is that to get an earlier harvest, it is best to grow seedlings.

Seedlings or seeds are planted in open ground at the end of May. Earlier dates do not allow the crop to grow: the sprouts may die from warm air temperatures that have not yet settled

Soil preparation

You can lighten the soil in the following ways:

1. Add humus (7-8 kg per m2) and sand (a bucket per m2) into it.
2. For f1 cucumbers, use a plot where green manure plants (peas, mustard, phacelia, marigolds, etc.) previously grew. The roots of these crops perfectly loosen the soil. In addition, after growing, their tops are used as mulch, which also improves the quality of the soil.

Such simple measures allow you to prepare a plot for growing f1 cucumbers. Experienced gardeners carry them out constantly, and the cucumbers pay them with good harvests.

Planting

Keep your distance when planting

Seeds are sown in seedling boxes or cups to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. The temperature in the greenhouse should be constant - about 25 °C. When the first shoots appear, the temperature is reduced to 14-15°C. Seedlings are planted in open ground after stable warm weather has established.

If seeds are sown directly in open ground, then its temperature should be at least 15 °C. Sowing depth is 2-3 cm. Before sowing, the seed material is sorted, warmed and hardened. Seeds are sown in May; later dates are not suitable, as the soil dries out and the yield will decrease. F1 cucumbers are sown in rows, the distance between which is 60-70 cm. You can use a square-cluster pattern, then less time will be spent on processing row spacing. For every m2 of bed there are 2-3 bushes in a row. On light soils, the seeds are deepened by 5-6 cm, on heavier soils - by 3-4 cm.

Cucumber seedlings Murashka F1

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Sowing seeds for seedlings in central Russia is carried out from the last days of March to mid-April. But before that, they are heated near a radiator at a temperature of +25 degrees and soaked in water to germinate. You can also disinfect the seeds by treating them in a solution of potassium permanganate (weak).

To grow seedlings, you need to purchase peat or paper cups, pots with a diameter of at least 12 cm. The soil is made from 1 part garden soil, 1 part peat. For 10 liters of this mixture, also take 2 cups of wood ash and ¼ cup of superphosphate. The cups are filled with soil, shallow holes are made with a pencil, and the seeds are placed, sprinkled with no more than 2 cm of soil. You can put 2 grains in each glass.

In order for seedlings to grow quickly and not get sick, it is necessary to fertilize them in a timely manner.

The finished cups with seeds are placed in a common tray and covered with film. Seeds germinate best at a temperature of +25…+30 degrees. After germination, the tray with cups is placed on the south window and the film is removed. The temperature is reduced to +20 degrees. On all cloudy days, it is necessary to provide additional lighting with a lamp.

Important!

If Murashka cucumber seeds are processed by manufacturers (dyed), they do not need to be heated or soaked before planting. Any treatment, even against diseases, will harm such seeds!

In order for seedlings to grow quickly and not get sick, it is necessary to water them in a timely manner, add soil, and, if necessary, fertilize them. Fertilizer is applied once, after 2 leaves appear. It is made from a liter of water and a teaspoon of nitroammophoska. The second option is to buy Zdraven Turbo fertilizer and use it according to the instructions.

Seedlings for Goosebumps

The hatched seeds are sown in peat pots, cups with a volume of 0.4-0.5 liters. You can order the soil mixture from an agricultural store or prepare the substrate yourself. To do this, mix the following ingredients:

• 2 parts black soil;
• 1 part peat;
• 1 part rotted humus;
• 0.5 parts sand.

Egg shells or peat particles are placed at the bottom of the containers as drainage.

Sowing seeds for seedlings

How to sow seeds:

• containers are filled with nutritious soil and watered;
• the seeds are deepened into the soil by 1.5-2 cm;
• until germination, containers are kept under film;
• take it to a warm and sunny place;
• maintain a temperature of 20-25 degrees.

Planting time is 30-40 days before the planned transplant to a permanent location.

Cultivation of seedlings

To grow strong seedlings:

• Additionally, the crops are illuminated using phytolamps. Flora lamps are used effectively. Place at a distance of 40-50 cm. Additional illumination time is 14-15 hours;
• Maintains optimal temperature conditions. During the day 20-23 degrees, at night within 18-19 degrees;
• Water correctly. Use melt water, settled tap water, filtered. Water in the morning, once every 2-3 days. When it’s hot, you can arrange daily sprinkling. The best way is drip irrigation;
• Tempered. A week before planting on stationary beds, hardening begins. First, open the transoms in a room with young bushes. Then they put it on the loggia for a couple of hours, after a couple of days they leave it in the open air.

Feeding

Carry out at the seedling stage 2-3 times. Use complex formulations or a mixture containing superphosphate, potassium salts, ammonium nitrate, organic matter in the form of droppings or mullein.

Feeding stages:

• First. The first true leaf appears on the plants. To the mullein diluted 1:5 add 7 grams of saltpeter, 14 grams of superphosphate, 7 grams of potassium sulfate;
• Second. At the two-leaf stage. The composition is the same as during the first feeding. Accordingly, double the dosage;
• Third. Two weeks after the second time. Contains Superphosphate 30 g, potassium sulfate 14 g, saltpeter 14 grams. Additionally, add 0.3 grams of manganese sulfate and add 0.5 grams of boric acid. With the help of the Amulet, they stimulate the immune system, increase growth and development. If there is a risk of bushes overgrowing, use Atlet.

Features of planting the variety

Transplant seedlings to a permanent location at the end of May or beginning of June. The soil for cucumbers is dug up 2 weeks before transplanting. Then it is watered with a solution of 500 ml of mullein (liquid), a glass of dry droppings, a teaspoon of copper sulfate and 10 liters of water. At the time of planting, the soil should be warmed up to +15 degrees, but more is better. If it is cold, you can cover it with film after applying fertilizer. Thus, the soil will warm up faster.

Interesting!

If it is necessary to grow cucumbers by seeds and not by seedlings, the seeds are sown in May or June. You can sow 2-3 grains in each hole, and when they sprout, leave only one, the strongest sprout, removing the rest.

If the seedlings are in peat cups, they can be planted together with the container

Plant the seedlings at a distance of 50 cm from each other. The same distance is maintained between the rows. The holes are dug as deep and wide as cups in which seedlings grow. Then water is poured. It is very important that the planting depth is the same as when growing seedlings, no more. If you bury the sprout, it will begin to rot.

Planting is carried out by transferring sprouts from a cup into the ground. If the seedlings are in peat cups, they can be planted together with the container. All that remains is to cover the sprout with soil so that it sits tightly, water and mulch with compost or sawdust.

Important!

Murashka F1 cucumbers, like any other varieties or hybrids, do not tolerate transplantation well, so it is better to grow seedlings in separate peat or paper cups. Then during transplantation, they will not need to be pulled out of the container.

Landing procedure and preparation for it

Murashka F1 cucumbers can be grown both in a greenhouse and in open ground, planting them with seeds or seedlings. But the climate in most of Russia is such that it is preferable to plant them in a “shelter”. Growing seedlings allows you to get a harvest 2-3 weeks faster.

Preparing the bed

This variety, like any other cucumbers, is demanding on the quality of the soil. The soil must be light, but at the same time fertile, otherwise a bountiful harvest, even with proper care, will not be possible. The best option is a sandy or loamy substrate.

Humus introduced into the garden bed has a positive effect on soil fertility

When planting in open ground, you need to choose a well-lit area, protected from gusts of cold wind. Any lowlands where damp, cool air and water stagnate after rain are not suitable.

Murashka F1 cucumbers, like other varieties and hybrids, are heat- and light-loving plants

It is advisable to plant cucumbers after nightshades (tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes, bell peppers), onions, any cabbage, and herbs. Bad predecessors for them are zucchini, melons, watermelons, pumpkins, and squash. They draw the same nutrients from the soil and suffer from similar diseases.

Onions are a good predecessor for cucumbers, unlike plants that belong to the pumpkin family

In the fall, the substrate is dug deeply, in the process removing all weeds, stones, and other debris. Approximately 15 kg of humus or rotted compost and 25 g of nitrogen (urea, ammonium sulfate), phosphorus (simple superphosphate), potassium (potassium sulfate, potassium chloride) fertilizers are added per 1 m². You can also use complex preparations (Ammofoska, Diammofoska, Azofoska). Then the bed is spilled with boiling water or a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate, covered with film and left until spring. A week before planting, the soil will need to be loosened well.

The cucumber bed is dug up deeply in the fall, removing all plant debris.

It is advisable to find out the acidity of the soil in advance. Cucumbers prefer neutral soil. If this is not the case, when digging, additionally add dolomite flour, wood ash, and powdered eggshells (250–400 g/m²).

Growing seedlings

In order to increase germination, Murashka F1 cucumber seeds are soaked for 10–12 hours in a solution of any biostimulant (Epin, potassium humate, succinic acid, aloe juice) before planting. To disinfect and prevent the development of fungal diseases, you can add several crystals of potassium permanganate to the liquid. For the same purpose, the seeds are pickled in a solution of biological preparations (Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B, Trichodermin). At the same time, culling is carried out. Those seeds that float to the surface can be immediately thrown away; they are guaranteed not to sprout.

Rules for caring for Murashka cucumbers

Without proper care, you won’t be able to grow delicious, juicy Murashka cucumbers. So, what care does this plant need:

• It is best to grow Murashka cucumber on a trellis.
  Thus, space on the site is saved, and sunlight penetrates inside the bush, heating the stems and ovaries. It is best to grow Murashka cucumber on a trellis
• Watering is carried out mainly in the morning. The water is taken to be settled and warm (at least +20 degrees). If you water cucumbers with cold water, they will grow crooked and may taste bitter. The amount of watering depends on the climate. If the humidity is high, then 1 watering per week is enough; if it is dry and hot, the bushes are watered once every 2 days.
• The soil must be loosened regularly, immediately after watering, when the water is absorbed. Thanks to this, more oxygen will reach the roots, and they will be able to develop normally. Only cucumbers are never loosened to great depths so as not to touch the roots.
• Weeds are removed as they appear. They should not be cut off with a glander, but completely uprooted from the ground and removed from the site! It is advisable to do this before flowering so that the weeds do not have time to produce seeds and scatter them throughout the area.
• Murashka's cucumber needs to be pinched. This allows for proper distribution of nutrition and increased productivity. In the lower 4 sinuses, both the ovary and the stepson need to be removed. In the 5-9 sinuses the ovary is left, but the stepson is removed. And from the 9th sinus and above, the stepsons are pinched only after the 3rd leaf appears.

Important!

High humidity and low temperatures are the cause of the development of fungal diseases.

Fertilizers for Murashka cucumbers are needed once a week

• Some gardeners, in order to prolong fruiting, hill cucumbers 3-4 times a year.
• Feeding is needed once a week. Over the entire period of development, adult plants are fed 3 times. Fertilizers are applied once before flowering (1 liter of mullein is diluted in 10 liters of water). A second feeding is needed during flowering (the same fertilizer, but with the addition of 2 tablespoons of superphosphate). The third feeding is needed during fruiting. At this time, add an infusion of wood ash - it does not affect the taste, but perfectly nourishes the soil.

With this care, the cucumbers will have a developed root system, a strong stem and many ovaries.

Planting in open ground and caring for plants

Stage 1. Preparing and planting seeds Step 1. Preparatory activities are no different from those described above. Seeds are checked for germination, disinfected, germinated and hardened. Step 2. Seeds are sown in small depressions. The seeds are located at a depth of no more than 2 cm. At first, you can cover the crops with film or place arcs to create a small greenhouse

Stage 2. Cultivation after germination Step 1. When the shoots emerge and become stronger, the crops are thinned out if necessary

It is important that cucumbers have enough space to grow and develop. Step 2. If the nights are cold, it is better to cover the cucumbers so that they do not stop growing

Stage 3

Loosening the soil and applying fertilizers Step 1. Periodically loosen the soil. This is done to improve soil air exchange and remove weeds. Since the roots lie shallow, the treatment depth should not be more than 5 cm. Step 2. Fertilizers are applied as needed. It is best to use special complexes; usually the bag is diluted in 10 liters of water. The root part of the plants is watered with the solution. And some compounds are sprayed on stems and leaves

Stage 4. Watering the plants Step 1. Before sprouting, water the soil at least every other day. The soil should be moist, but not wet. Step 2. After watering, be sure to loosen the soil. This reduces moisture evaporation

Stage 5. Pinching the shoots Step 1. To prevent the vines from growing too long, pinch them after they have grown to the height of the trellis. If the plant spreads along the ground, pinch the main stem after the sixth leaf. Step 2. Side shoots are also pinched when their length reaches approximately 40 cm

Stage 6. Caring for adult plants Step 1. Harvest in a timely manner. This way the plant does not waste nutrients on mature fruits and directs them to the growth of new ones. The best option is to collect daily or every other day. Step 2: Monitor the condition of the soil at the roots. It should not be dry or over-moistened. Constantly loosen it

Diseases and pests of the variety

Most often, signs of downy mildew (downy mildew) appear on cucumber bushes. You can tell that the plant is affected by yellow spots on the front side of the leaves. Later, the leaves begin to curl into a tube, lighten and dry out. The plant may also be affected by root rot. In this case, the stem changes color to brown, the leaves turn yellow, the branches become very thin, as if they are drying out.

From diseases and pests it is necessary to treat the bushes with fungicides

To save the crop, it is necessary to treat the bushes with fungicides such as Fitosporin M, Oksikhom, Trichoderm Veride 471, Previkur, Signum.

Important!

Sometimes, for unknown reasons, the ovaries that appear begin to fall off. To prevent this from happening, you can treat the bushes with the “Ovary” preparation for cucumbers.

There are usually no pests on this crop, but if there are a lot of aphids in the garden, then the cucumbers will be under threat. In this case, they are treated with “Aktara” or “Fitoverm”.

Pros and cons of the variety

Thanks to a lot of undoubted advantages, the Murashka hybrid has sustained popularity:

• Versatility of cultivation. Cucumbers are easily grown in garden beds, in greenhouses, on window sills, and loggias. Powerful and very tall bushes do not become an obstacle to this.
• Precocity. The early-ripening hybrid begins to produce its first greens at the end of June.
• Parthenocarpicity. The presence of insects is not necessary for successful ovaries. This quality is very important especially in wet weather when insects become scarce.
• Long-term fruiting, productivity. The bouquet type of ovary ensures a good harvest, which does not at all affect the taste. In greenhouse conditions, the number of fruits increases.
• Genetically built-in immunity against dangerous diseases: Cladosporiosis, powdery mildew. Pests such as aphids avoid contact with the Murashka hybrid.
• Cucumber very rarely forms barren flowers.
• Presentable appearance of fruits, their excellent taste and versatility of use.

There are no cultures that are distinguished by the absence of shortcomings. Compared to some also popular varieties of cucumbers, Murashka does not have so many of them:

• Unlimited growth. All the strength of the plant goes into the formation of lashes and foliage. In order for a cucumber to begin bearing fruit, you need to limit its growth, that is, shape it.
• Tendency to certain diseases: root rot and downy mildew. If you grow vegetables responsibly, such diseases can be prevented. Quite often, with improper care, the gardener himself provokes the emergence of a pathogenic fungus.
• Since Murashka is not a pure variety, seed material from mature cucumbers does not produce viable seeds.
• Murashka has its own whims. Failure to follow agricultural practices and recommendations will inevitably lead to crop loss.

Harvesting and processing of cucumbers

The harvest is harvested from June to the end of August, depending on when the planting took place. The greens are harvested about every other day. It is best to do this early in the morning or in the evening, then the shelf life will be longer. If the harvest has not been harvested for a long time, the cucumbers will begin to change shape and will not be as tasty. Store Murashka F1 cucumber in the refrigerator or a dark, cool cellar.

Interesting!

To ensure that canned or pickled cucumbers are crispy, they are pre-soaked in cold water for 2 hours. Although, according to the hostesses, Murashka F1 does not need this procedure. The greens of this hybrid, regardless of processing, remain crispy.

Murashka cucumbers are often used for pickling.

Murashka cucumber has universal uses. It can be added to salads, summer snacks, and is also good for canning. Greens are often used for pickling. It’s good to pickle them in simple plastic containers, plastic bags, but the best option, of course, is in wooden barrels. These cucumbers perfectly absorb the smell and taste of spices, their flesh does not soften and keeps its shape.

Advantages and disadvantages

The hybrid has a number of qualities:

• stable productivity;
• absence of barren flowers;
• excellent taste and product qualities;
• unpretentiousness of cultivation;
• stress resistance;
• possibility of universal use;
• strong immunity to many cucumber pathogens.

Of the minuses:

• growing through seedlings;
• compliance with the peculiarities of agricultural technology.

Productivity

During the season, 10-12 kilograms are harvested from 1 square meter. If agricultural technology is followed, the yield from one plant reaches 7-7.5 kilograms.

Reviews from gardeners about the hybrid Murashka F1

They speak laudably about the Murashka F1 hybrid:

• Maxim Lesovoy : “I’ve been growing Murashka F1 cucumbers on the plot for several years now. I buy seeds only in stores. The hybrid is early ripening, pollination by bees is not needed, so even in a cloudy, rainy summer it pleases with the harvest. Each node can form up to 5 ovaries. Zelentsy grow beautiful, even, if the conditions are good, the color is bright and pleasant. The taste will delight even a gourmet! So I can confidently recommend it!”
• Elena Semenova : “Goosebump F1 – produces small gherkin cucumbers. They ripen quickly, have a pleasant taste and are very beautiful. When pickled, pickled or simply fresh, these cucumbers crisp well and have a pleasant aroma. I grow it both in open ground and in a greenhouse. In the open air they produce crops longer, but in the greenhouse they ripen faster.”
• Dmitry Grub : “Murashka F1 cucumbers delight not only with their taste, but also because they are easy to grow. They sprout together and give a bountiful harvest. In addition, these cucumbers make a very tasty preserve! They keep for a long time and are good for sale. We always sell part of the harvest, because there is too much for the family! The main thing is to water the plants on time so that the greens are not bitter, but this rule applies to all varieties of cucumbers!

Transplanting cucumbers

The seedlings are ready for planting in open beds if the bushes have 2-3 leaves. When transplanted into greenhouses, Murashka cucumbers should have 4-5 true leaves. Cucumbers do not like crowding; the beds are placed at a distance of 0.7 meters. The soil mixture is made up of the following components in equal proportions:

• black soil or garden turf;
• humus;
• compost;
• peat.

To increase the level of minerals add per 1 meter:

• 25-30 grams of Superphosphate;
• 15 grams of potassium sulfate;
• 8-10 grams of ammonium nitrate.

Planting and growing varieties

The Murashka F1 cucumber variety is a hybrid, and there are two ways to plant it: seedlings and non-seedlings. The seedling method is more labor-intensive and is usually used to get a quick harvest. The variety is suitable for planting both outdoors and in a greenhouse. The technology of planting and growing is almost no different from other varieties of cucumbers.

Find out when to sow cucumber seedlings.

Seedling method

To obtain a good harvest when planting seeds in the ground, it is necessary that the soil is fertile, breathable, filled with nutrients and pre-treated. Land for seedlings can be purchased in specialized stores or prepared yourself according to the following recipe:

• soil (preferably loamy type) - half a bucket;
• humus - half a bucket;
• ash - 100 g;
• superphosphate - 10 g;
• potassium sulfate 3–5 g.

Important! Sandy and loamy soil types are better suited for sowing.

The seeds are sown to a depth of 1–2 cm and as the seedlings grow, soil must be added to prevent the stem from falling. The container with seedlings should be placed in a box and placed in a sunny place. Cover the box with film. In the room with seedlings, you need to maintain the temperature at +25°C. The first shoots should be expected up to 2.5 weeks. After germination, in order to avoid rapid growth of the stem, the room temperature must be lowered to +15°C.

Stems with two leaves are allowed for planting. Planting is done at the rate of 3 bushes per 1 m² in a line, and in a checkerboard pattern to facilitate subsequent tillage. Seedlings can be planted from the end of April to the beginning of June, provided that the soil is warmed to the required temperature to a depth of 15 cm. But it should be borne in mind that late planting can lead to a drop in yield and a decrease in soil moisture.

Important! Getting an early harvest is facilitated by hardening the seeds in the refrigerator at a temperature of +2°C for 18 hours.

Using the seedless method

For planting, it is better to choose seeds that are 3–4 years old. Before planting, they should be heated to +50°C for three days and soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate. In this way you will disinfect the seeds. And after washing with water, you can start planting. In autumn, it is advisable to distribute 1 bucket of humus per 1 m² of area on the site.

You can lighten the soil by distributing 1 bucket of sand per 1 m². Before planting, the soil must be weeded and loosened. It is better to use areas where peas, cabbage or onions grew. It is advisable to choose a site on the sunny side for best growth and, accordingly, harvest. Planting method - in a line or in a checkerboard pattern. Step-by-step procedure for sowing seeds:

1. Selecting a site and preparing the bed (back in the fall).
2. Seed preparation, which consists of sorting (selecting high-quality seed material and eliminating empty grains), heating and hardening of seeds (in order to increase not only germination, but also the immunity of future plants, as well as speed up the process of harvesting).
3. Preparing furrows for seeds. Experienced gardeners recommend sowing Murashka F1 cucumbers in rows, the distance between which should be 0.7 m. The depth of the furrows is 3–4 cm; if sowing is carried out in light soil, then they can be deepened to 5–6 cm.
4. No more than three plants should grow per 1 m² of land.

Important! Cucumbers do not like the proximity of potatoes and herbs (except dill).

Features of cultivation

Murashka is grown by direct sowing or through seedlings, which allows for an earlier harvest.
The hybrid is very demanding on soil quality. Light soils must also be fertile, otherwise there will be no fruiting. Therefore, loamy or sandy loam substrates are determined for Murashka. He loves cucumber humus very much.

The area allocated for cultivation should have good lighting and protection from cold gusts of wind. It is strictly not recommended to plant plants in lowlands where water stagnates and the air is damp and cool.

You need to prepare the beds in the fall:

• When digging deeply, weeds are carefully removed;
• Add 2 buckets of humus for every 1 m²;
• Add nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus fertilizers;
• The beds are poured with boiling water and covered with film until spring.

To increase yield, seeds are soaked in a stimulant and disinfected in manganese. At the same time, floating (empty) seeds are rejected. Planting is carried out immediately in individual containers with moistened soil, 2-3 grains each. The top of the crops is covered with glass or film, but they must be ventilated every day. Before sprouts appear, the crops need to be heated from below - you can place them on the windowsill.

When the shoots appear, a primary culling is done: deformed, weak sprouts are carefully cut off with scissors. With this manipulation, the roots of a healthy plant will not be damaged.

Seedlings are placed in the most illuminated places, and additional lighting is turned on if necessary.

Before planting seedlings in any soil, you should make sure that at a depth of about 15 cm it is warmed up to at least +15ºС. This point also applies to direct sowing of seeds.

Seedlings are not planted earlier than 25 days of age. Younger, she is very tender, weak and sensitive. Even a slight decrease in the usual air temperature can destroy it.

The beds are pre-watered abundantly, only then the holes are made. The Murashka hybrid can be placed in a checkerboard pattern or in a row, the main thing is to maintain an interval of 70 centimeters.

The plantings are again watered abundantly, and after absorbing the water they are mulched. Further care is the same as for most hybrids.

Planting and growing cucumbers of the German F1 variety

In order for the planting season to be a success, you need to buy German cucumber seeds in winter. And they are not picky about this either. Increased demand is doing its job. Seminis packaging can be found not only in online stores, but also on shelves in retail outlets.

The bags, marked with a Dutch manufacturer, are packaged and sold by many well-known Russian agricultural companies.

When to sow cucumbers

And when the German cucumber seeds are purchased and the place is ready, all that remains is to set the time for planting. Preferably it should be a day:

• when the weather has settled and the seeds are already warm in the hole, and the seedlings will not die from frost;
• in which there is no full moon and new moon, but the night star grows;
• when you are in a good mood and have a great desire to give life to plants.

You also need to water the garden bed well in advance, two days in advance. And this can be done with a solution of Fitosporin or manganese.

Emerald cucumber seeds

When you open the package, don't be surprised. This –

a bonus that will save you time during the busy planting season. Beautiful, green color of seeds:

• will free you from disinfection in potassium permanganate;
• will save money for the purchase of growth stimulants;
• will make them clearly visible, which prevents them from getting lost if they accidentally fall.

Agree that it is very convenient and reliable.

Timing of planting and fruiting of German cucumbers

You can eat your first Herman cucumber in June. And finish harvesting in late autumn. To remove gherkins over the course of 4-5 months, there is a good method of sowing in stages. For example:

• End of April, beginning of May -
  to warm greenhouses or to the southern land.
• In the last days of May or the first of June.
• In the first ten days of July.

The German cucumber can be planted through seedlings

It is important to do the transshipment so that the plant does not notice and continues to grow. Then, even gardeners from regions with cold climates will receive 3 waves of harvest

It’s just that in the first days of summer you need to simultaneously plant 20-day-old seedlings and seeds. For 1 m² – 3-4 pieces.

Caring for cucumbers Herman f1

A high percentage of germination ensures friendly shoots. The gardener's job is to maintain soil moisture. It is necessary to understand that watering is only permissible with warm water. Be sure to loosen and weed excess grass

After 2 weeks, the plants are fed. This could be an infusion of ash or store-bought nitrogen fertilizers. Herman cucumber should be fertilized regularly throughout the season. Depending on soil fertility: after 1 or 2 weeks. During growth, organic compounds are used. Potassium will help flowering vines, but strictly without chlorine. During the fruiting period, you can buy a special mineral complex.

Already 20 centimeter sprouts begin to form by removing the embryos and layering at the base of the first 4 leaves. The bulk of the greens are tied in the axils of the main stem. Description of the cucumber Herman teaches that pinching will ensure maximum yield.

• To do this, all side lashes are limited to one, maximum 2 nodes with embryos on the branch.
• If the lateral shoots are not pinched, the plant will not cope and the ovaries will fall off.
• It is not difficult to tie up a formed plant and it is convenient to care for it.
• But you also need to monitor the health of the bush. Because aphids and mites do not sleep.
• The hybrid also does not resist rust well.

As a result of all the work, you get 10-12 kg/m², small, dense, pimply cucumbers, with a pleasant, sweetish taste

But it is important to regularly remove grown gherkins. And eat something with gusto, and stock up most of it according to various recipes for the winter table

Interesting on the topic: When to plant seeds for seedlings: simple calculation of sowing dates

Features of agricultural technology

To get a good harvest, it is important to choose the right seeds. It is better to focus on well-known manufacturers, including “Poisk”, “Gavrish”, “Russian Garden”. has released a new product - in one package there are 10 seeds of the Murashka hybrid and the same number of seeds of the Kurazh F1 variety

These hybrids basically have the same characteristics and differ only in purpose: Murashka is a pickling variety, and Kurazh is a universal one.

has released a new product - in one package there are 10 seeds of the Murashka hybrid and the same number of seeds of the Kurazh F1 variety. These hybrids basically have the same characteristics and differ only in purpose: Murashka is a pickling variety, and Kurazh is a universal variety.

Seed preparation

Before planting, the seeds must be prepared: disinfected, germinated, hardened. Disinfection of seed material is carried out using a solution of potassium permanganate. The seeds are immersed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour, then washed in clean water and soaked for 12 hours.

Then the seeds should be germinated. To do this, they are wrapped in a wet cotton cloth and left for 2-3 days. It is necessary to ensure that the fabric always remains slightly damp, otherwise the seeds will dry out and the hatching sprouts will die.

In order for the seeds to withstand harsh weather conditions, they must be hardened. To do this, a bag of wet seeds is placed in a refrigerator for 12 hours, where the temperature is set at +1°C. The rest of the day, the seeds are kept warm, at +18°C. Hardening is carried out for three days.

Planting seeds in the ground and for seedlings

Murashka cucumbers can be planted as seeds or seedlings. Planting with seeds begins after the ground has warmed to a depth of 15-20 cm. Seeds are placed in grooves prepared in the fall at a distance of 10 cm from each other and buried 3 cm into the soil. In order not to thicken the plantings, it is necessary to leave gaps between the rows of at least 70 cm.

If the sprouts sprout very often, it is necessary to thin out the plantings. Otherwise, the plants will not have enough nutrients, which will cause the bushes to stretch out and the growth of vegetables to slow down.

Many gardeners prefer to grow cucumbers using seedlings, which eliminates the possibility of poor seed germination and allows harvesting to begin two weeks earlier. Seeds are planted in peat pots or special boxes with cells

When transplanting into the ground, it is very important not to damage the fragile roots of the plant, so it is better to place each sprout in a separate container. To preserve heat and humidity, boxes with future seedlings should be covered with plastic wrap and placed in a dark place. The seeds of this Murashka variety germinate rather slowly - only after 2-2.5 weeks the first sprouts will appear

Now it’s time to remove the film, and the seedlings should be moved to a bright windowsill or other well-lit place

The seeds of this Murashka variety germinate rather slowly - only after 2-2.5 weeks the first sprouts will appear. Now it’s time to remove the film, and the seedlings should be moved to a bright windowsill or other well-lit place.

To feed seedlings, you can use any fertilizer intended for this purpose, or diluted mullein.

Transplanting

At the beginning of May, seedlings can be planted in a greenhouse or in a garden bed. It is optimal to plant 3-4 plants per square meter

When preparing the soil in autumn, it is important to remember that it is better to choose a new place for cucumbers every year. This crop cannot be planted after late-ripening cabbage and carrots. Potatoes and herbs (except dill) should not be adjacent to cucumber beds.

Potatoes and herbs (except dill) should not be adjacent to cucumber beds.

Holes are made in the designated place and young sprouts are transferred into them. It is very convenient if the seedlings were grown in peat pots - the bottom is torn off and, without removing the plant, planted together with the rest of the pot in the soil. This way, the root system is completely preserved, and rotted peat will serve as an excellent top dressing for the first time.

Growing

In order for the harvest to please you with its results, you need to study the description of the variety and the secrets of cultivation. To sow seeds of this variety of cucumbers directly into the soil, it is necessary to wait for complete warming and warming of the earth to a depth of at least 12-15 cm. Before planting, the seeds should be treated with potassium permanganate (5 grams per half liter of water) and soaked for 12-20 hours. To grow seedlings of the hybrid variety Murashka, the steps with seeds are the same.

After all the manipulations, in order for the sprouts to hatch, it is necessary to place the cucumber seeds on a wet cloth and maintain the moisture at a temperature of at least 25°C. As soon as the Murashka cucumber seeds hatch, they should be moved to prepared soil consisting of equal parts of turf soil and humus. You need to add a glass of wood ash to a bucket of such a mixture and fill individual cups with 2/3 of the total volume, making sure that there are drainage holes.

Advice! It is not recommended to sow in a common container; this variety of cucumbers does not tolerate transplantation.

Cucumber seeds should be placed to a depth of 1 cm in a well-moistened mixture. Place in a large box, add a small layer of soil to the bottom, cover with glass or film and place in a sunny place.

Murashka cucumber seeds germinate slowly, do not worry if they do not appear within 2-2.5 weeks. At the first appearance of sprouts, it is worth removing the film and lowering the temperature to avoid stretching the stem.

You can feed Murashka cucumber seedlings with mullein (dilute 1 liter in 10 liters of water, then pour 1 liter of the resulting solution into 10 liters of water again).

When two true leaves appear, you can plant cucumber seedlings in open ground, preferably at the end of April, beginning of May. 2-3 bushes are planted per 1 m2, resulting in 10-12 kg of finished product. The soil for cucumbers of the hybrid Murashka variety should be well fertilized; it is advisable to distribute 2 buckets of humus per 1 m2 in the fall. Potatoes and various aromatic herbs, with the exception of dill, should not be nearby. You should choose the south side for full sunlight on the cucumber bush.

When sowing in greenhouses, the principle of preparing seeds of this hybrid variety Murashka F1 remains the same, but before the onset of consistently high temperatures, it is necessary to maintain heat and humidity at the proper level. When using the square-cluster method (in a checkerboard pattern), you should make holes at a distance of 70 cm, and put 8-10 cucumber seeds in each hole, having previously fertilized it. After germination, leave no more than three bushes of this variety; with the help of a support, distribute them evenly so as not to form a large density. If sowing is done in rows, the seeds of Murashka cucumbers are placed in the soil at a depth of 3-4 cm, at a distance of 5 cm from each other, for the further possibility of removing weak sprouts. You need to thin out regularly until there are 5 cucumber bushes left per 1 linear meter. In order for the harvest of the hybrid variety Murashka to surprise with the abundance of fruits, it is necessary to pinch the main stem of the bush after the 6th leaf, and the side stems at a distance of 40 cm from the trunk.

The temperature during active growth should not fall below 25°C, otherwise the roots of the plant may be damaged and the bush will begin to hurt. Considering that Murashka F1 cucumbers actively grow at night, it is also advisable to water them in the dark. The amount of water is based on 20 liters per 1 m2 to maintain the required humidity. During flowering, it is worth watering carefully to avoid moisture getting on the bush. For better penetration of oxygen into the soil, loosening is necessary after each watering.

It is necessary to fertilize at least three times:

1. Fertilize with manure, in the same ratio as for seedlings. The color should be like weak tea.
2. Add 1 tbsp to the previous fertilizer. l. nitroammofosk or superphosphate and distribute 1 liter for each bush. A prerequisite is to water the seedlings before fertilizing.
3. With the help of ash (1 glass per bucket of water) fertilize 0.5 liters per bush just before the fruits ripen.

The hybrid variety Murashka 1 will become an indispensable crop in your garden, it will delight you with the taste of cucumbers and long-term fruiting, and the ease of cultivation will allow even a novice gardener to be convinced of this.

Growing seedlings

Features of care

The Goosebump hybrid realizes its potential only if agricultural practices are followed. The latter includes not only the correctness of planting (sowing) work

It is important to regularly care for the bushes, watering them in a timely manner, loosening the beds, as well as providing complete, balanced nutrition, taking protective measures against diseases and pest attacks

To obtain a rich harvest, the Murashka F1 cucumber needs the correct formation of the bush. In order for the greens to be of high quality, you must follow the care tips.

Table. Agrotechnics of cultivation after sowing

Please note! During fruiting, you should not use pesticides to combat harmful organisms. During this phase, it is worth choosing biological products or folk remedies, after which there will be no pesticide residue in the plant products.

Characteristics of the variety

The unpretentious variety Murashka F1 is more suitable for growing in greenhouses and greenhouses, but in areas with a suitable climate it can also be planted in open areas. Low compact bushes will take root and give a bountiful harvest even on a balcony or terrace.

The beginning of fruiting occurs 40-45 days after planting the seeds, so the variety is classified as early ripening. The plant is parthenocarpic and does not require pollination. Cucumber seeds do not develop fully - they are small and translucent, they are almost invisible when eaten. The downside of the hybrid is the inability to grow a crop from independently collected seeds next season.

As indicated in the description of the variety, the indeterminate bush can grow more than 2.5 m in height, so the top and side shoots must be pinched. From one axil appears a “bouquet” of 5-6 inflorescences, which form fruits as the crop grows. This hybrid develops exclusively female inflorescences, so there are no empty flowers at all.

Long-term fruiting is a pleasant bonus for the vegetable grower. Murashka cucumbers can be harvested from the beginning of June to the end of August, and flowers can be seen on the bush next to the ripened fruits.

Typically, the manufacturer places a photo of an adult plant on the seed package. The appearance of the finished product in reality is not much different from the photograph. The cucumbers are smooth, pimply, with black spines, the dark green color lightens at the very tip. The length of the fruit does not exceed 12 cm, weight – about 100 g.

From the reviews of experienced gardeners, one can judge the high yield of the variety. Summer residents boast that they can harvest up to 5 kg of sweet, crisp cucumbers from one bush. Small cylindrical fruits fit perfectly into a jar and do not spoil for a long time. Canned cucumbers can be stored for several years without losing their taste and attractive appearance.

Harvesting and storage features

The fruiting period of Murashka begins one and a half months after planting. Harvesting is carried out throughout the entire fruiting period (mid-June - late August). But Murashka F1 cucumbers are prone to overgrowth, so it is recommended to cut ripe fruits at least once every 3-4 days. In addition, such frequency contributes to the appearance of new ovaries and an increase in yield. One bush produces 7.5–12 kg of fruit. To best preserve the fruits fresh, harvesting is carried out in the morning. Cucumbers will be fresh for about 3 days. To increase the period of suitability, you need to perform simple manipulations and follow the conditions for selecting fruits based on appearance and condition:

1. Cucumbers must be fresh. It is advisable to store fruits on the day of harvest.
2. The fruits must be cleaned of dirt, leaves and must be dry.
3. All fruits must be undamaged. An injured vegetable will rot over time and infect those stored nearby with rot.
4. Overgrown cucumbers are not suitable for storage.

The easiest way to store it is to put the cucumbers in a cardboard box. At temperatures up to +20°C they will stay fresh for 2-3 days. If this is not enough, fill the cucumbers with water, placing them vertically in the container. Lower them with the stalks down and fill them with cool water 1–2 cm above the fruits. The water needs to be changed every 1-2 days. Cucumbers will remain fresh for up to three weeks. Storage in the refrigerator has worked well.

Important! Do not store cucumbers in the refrigerator with fresh fruits and vegetables. They emit ethylene, which contributes to the overripening of cucumbers.

To do this, cucumbers must be wrapped in gauze or paper napkins, packed in a loosely tied plastic bag and placed in the vegetable compartment. This way the fruits will last up to two weeks. You cannot freeze cucumbers in the freezer or store it close to it - at subzero temperatures, the fruits become covered with mucus and become unfit for consumption.

With the right choice of a productive variety of cucumbers, you can enjoy fresh crispy fruits for almost a whole year. The main thing is to provide the crop with appropriate cultivation conditions, observing the rules of agricultural technology recommended by gardeners and breeders.

How to grow cucumbers in an apartment: step-by-step instructions

Landing dates

The timing depends on the selected cucumber variety and growing conditions. They take into account the area of ​​the room, the ability to provide optimal temperature and light conditions, air humidity, and climate zone.

Cucumbers planted at the end of October will be ready for the New Year's table. Plantings in January begin to be harvested in March. The average time for fruiting to begin from the appearance of the first shoots is 40-50 days. February seedlings ripen in time for the May holidays.

Soil preparation

In the store you buy universal soil or a mixture for growing pumpkin crops.

Prepare yourself according to proven recipes:

1. Equal shares of peat, humus. A glass of wood ash in a bucket of mixture.
2. 1/3 part of turf, garden soil, compost with the addition of a small amount of calcined river sand, ash, rotted sawdust.

The earth is disinfected in one of the following ways:

• Steamed.
• Spill with a hot (+ 90°C) dark pink solution of potassium permanganate.
• Warm up in the oven.
• Treated with special industrial preparations.
• Apply nitrophoska or complete complex fertilizer. Pour into containers, pour generously, and leave for a day to compact.

Sowing

1. Cucumber seeds are pickled for 20-30 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Rinse. Dry it. Leave for 2-3 days to swell in a saucer with warm water, wrap in damp gauze, and place on cotton pads. Read more about preparing seeds before planting.
2. Hatched cucumber seeds are sown to a depth of about a centimeter. Plant 1-2 seeds per volume of one liter at a distance of 2-3 cm from each other. Watered.
3. Place it in a bright place. Maintain temperature + 22-25°C during the day, + 16-18°C at night.
4. To maintain the required humidity, cover with film or glass.
5. When cucumber shoots appear, the cover is removed. Remove the weak sprout. Additional illumination begins.

Advice! To eliminate the danger of overcooling the root system of cucumbers, place a sheet of foam plastic, drywall, or thick plywood under the containers with plantings.

Lighting

It is impossible to grow cucumbers at home in winter without lighting. Daylight hours should last 12-14 hours. In the central zone of Russia, in the Urals, in Siberia, from December to February, additional illumination is carried out from 16 to 20 hours.

Lighting devices for additional illumination (energy-saving, fluorescent, LED) are mounted at a distance of 30-40 cm.

To enhance the effect, install sheets of foil and mirrors that reflect light.

Temperature

Until the plants form lashes, the temperature is maintained no higher than +16°C. After the formation of lashes, the temperature on sunny days is maintained at + 24-26 ° C, in cloudy weather and at night + 18-20 ° C.

Watering

Water daily in sunny weather, every other day in cloudy weather. The water must be settled and brought to room temperature. Water several times a season with a weak pinkish solution of potassium permanganate.

It is useful to spray the plants twice a day, but the leaves should dry out by night. Watering cucumbers is carried out at the root or water is poured into trays.

Advice! To increase the humidity in the room, cover the heating radiators with damp towels. Place a bowl of water next to the cucumber bushes. Humidifiers are turned on.

Support

Home-grown lashes reach a height of up to two meters and require a garter. The garter is made using a sliding loop. Use twine or nylon cord.

Bush formation

After the fifth true leaf appears, pinch the top to form a bush with two stems. When the next five leaves grow, the procedure is repeated.

Pinching of the side lashes is carried out in the lower lateral nodes above the 1-2-3 leaf.

Top dressing

The first feeding is carried out after the appearance of two true leaves. Feed with a solution of 3-4 g of nitrophoska per liter of water. The consumption rate per plant is a glass.

You can use a solution of one teaspoon of urea in 5 liters of water. Feed once every 2 weeks.

With the appearance of greens, the plant is fed every week, alternating mineral and organic fertilizers. 20% solutions of chicken manure or superphosphate are used as organic additives. For minerals, dissolve 30-40 g of nitrophoska in a bucket of water, add a teaspoon of Agrolife or 2 caps of the drug Rost along with watering.

As an alternative, after a week, the cucumbers are fed with vermicomposting agents. Spray the bushes twice with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Advice! An excellent organic solution is a solution of fermented crushed banana peels and rye bread.

Growing from seeds to seedlings at home

The highest yield is produced by Murashka cucumbers grown from seedlings at home. Therefore, seedlings need to be given maximum attention.

Seed preparation

The most important stage is seed preparation. Before planting, they must be treated with a solution of potassium permanganate (5 g per 500 ml of water) and soaked for 12–20 hours. Next, in order for the seed to take root, it must be wrapped in a damp cloth and, maintaining humidity, left for 2-3 days in a room with a temperature of 25 ° C. In the meantime, the container and soil for planting are being prepared.

Familiarize yourself with the features of soaking cucumber seeds before planting.

Potassium permanganate solution

Contents and location

The soil should be a mixture of turf and humus in a 1:1 ratio. Ash can be added to the mixture (200 g per 10 liters of mixture). If you don’t want to bother preparing the soil, you can purchase a special substrate for seedlings. Fill the seedling pots 2/3 full with it or the mixture and make drainage holes.

The germinated seed is buried 1 cm into moist soil. The top of the pots is covered with film or glass and placed in a warm, dark place until the first shoots appear. Then the film is removed and the seedlings are transferred to a bright place with a temperature of 16–20 °C.

Important! If there are few sunny days, additional illumination is necessary. Cucumbers need 12–14 hours of daylight

Seed planting process

1. The seeds are germinated.
2. They are planted in pots, buried 1 cm into the soil.

Water and cover with film or glass. Place in a dark, warm place. When the first shoots appear, remove the film and transfer the seedlings to a bright place.

When the first true leaf appears, fertilize the seedling with manure diluted in water (1:12). The procedure is carried out in the morning on a warm sunny day. 30 minutes after feeding, the seedlings are watered.

Seedling care

The first watering of plants is done 4–5 days after the first shoots. The water temperature should be 25–28 °C. After each watering, the soil is loosened. The frequency of watering depends on the speed of soil drying.

If over time the soil in the pot has sagged and exposed the root system, it is necessary to add more soil. And to prevent young cucumbers from being attacked by the black leg, the stem is coated with chalk powder, activated carbon powder or fine wood ash.

7–10 days before the intended planting of seedlings in open ground, seedlings begin to harden in the fresh air. The first procedures should last no longer than 2–3 hours. Gradually this time increases to 8–10 hours.

Transplanting seedlings into the ground

When the soil has warmed up to 15 °C, the seedlings can be planted in a permanent place. This temperature is established around the end of May - beginning of June. By this time, the seedlings should be 25 days old and have 2-3 true leaves.

The bed is watered and holes 7–8 cm deep are formed on it. They can be placed in a row or in a checkerboard pattern, but you need to take into account the fact that per 1 sq. m there should be no more than 3 plants. Taking this into account, the distance between the holes will be about 70 cm.

A handful of humus and 1 tbsp are poured into the hole. l. ash, immerse the seedling. It is covered with earth up to the lower cotyledon leaves.

Important! When moving a seedling from a pot to a hole, you must try not to shake the soil from the root system. The planted plant is watered abundantly using a watering can

After the water is absorbed, a layer of peat or humus mulch is laid out around the bush.

The planted plant is watered abundantly using a watering can. After the water is absorbed, a layer of peat or humus mulch is laid around the bush.