Features of cultivation and characteristics of the strawberry variety Malvina

Every summer resident dreams of extending the strawberry consumption season. This tasty and healthy berry is always useful on the table and is good in preparations. Not long ago, a variety appeared in Germany that is ready to make this dream come true. We are talking about the Malvina strawberry variety. Created in 2010 by German breeder Peter Stoppel, this berry ends the strawberry season of single-fruiting strawberry varieties, and ends it with brilliance, since Malvina strawberries are surprisingly good not only in appearance, but also in taste.

Reviews from summer residents about her are only enthusiastic, and to find out more about her, let’s look at her photo and read the description of the Malvina strawberry variety.

History of the strawberry variety Malvina

Both adults and children love sweet and fragrant strawberries. Therefore, many summer residents try to follow fashion trends on the market. So, for those who want to keep up with the achievements of selection in this direction, we present - Malvina strawberries. The variety is new, it appeared on the market in 2010, but is already attracting the attention of connoisseurs.

Malvina is the result of hybridization of the Sophie variety and a clone from Schimmelpfeng and Weihenstefan. The author was the German breeder Peter Stoppel.

Strawberry Malvina sets records for late fruiting among modern varieties - the latest

Agricultural cultivation technology and care

As already mentioned, Malvina is the latest of all varieties that bear fruit once a season; accordingly, its cultivation has some nuances, which will be discussed in more detail later.

Landing dates

Malvina, due to its late fruiting, is planted at a time that differs from the usual for this species. The most justified planting is in the spring . In the first season, you should not expect a bountiful harvest, but from the second year, when the bush grows 6–8 runners over the summer, be prepared for the appearance of a large number of berries.

For Malvina, autumn planting is the third ten days of August. This is done so that the young growth can take root before the onset of frost, otherwise the cold can have a detrimental effect on the seedlings.

If you are planting annual seedlings, this should be done in late spring - early summer.

If you hope to get any significant harvest in the first season, select bushes for planting whose stepsons have taken root before the end of September. In addition, these bushes must have time to form flower rosettes, otherwise you should not count on a good result.

Important! Malvina bushes are very large and take a lot of nitrogen from the substrate. So it is recommended, when preparing the beds, to add a good amount of mullein or bird droppings to the soil.

Selecting a site and preparing holes

For strawberries, a well-lit, open place with a slight slope, preferably on the south or southwest side of your site, is considered preferable. The minimum depth of groundwater is 70 cm or more.

The crop grows best in soils with a slightly acidic pH (about 6.0–6.5).

If the soil is alkaline, it is acidified. The best soil for growing is chernozem and dark gray forest light substrate. Sandstones, clay and peat soil must first be prepared.

An excellent option for growing Malvina is a mixture of equal parts of turf, humus and peat with the addition of a small amount of sand.

Fertilizers and chalk with lime are added to clay soil. It’s more difficult with sandstones: they are prepared a couple of years before the intended planting by adding an oat-bean mixture. Potassium and phosphorus fertilizers are applied to peatlands.

The following soils are not suitable for growing strawberries:

• salt marshes;
• limestone;
• strongly acidic (pH<4.0);
• with an increased level of moisture.

In addition, when planting strawberries, it is necessary to take into account crop compatibility and crop rotation.
The culture grows best where it grew before:

• greenery;
• radish;
• legumes;
• green manure.

Important! Growing strawberries next to nightshades may not have the best effect on resistance to diseases and pests, and yield indicators.
Separately, it should be said about green manure. If rapeseed was previously grown on the planting site, the soil will be rich in organic matter and phosphorus. Mustard prevents the development of late blight and promotes the formation of humus. The root system of vetch and lupine increases the nitrogen concentration. Buckwheat increases the content of three essential minerals - nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Phacelia makes the soil pH close to neutral, reducing acidity.

Planting in a checkerboard pattern is quite suitable; this will create the space the bushes need.
Malvina requires a lot of space , the minimum distance between two adjacent bushes should be 0.6 m, the row spacing should be 0.7 m. A two-row planting scheme should not be used, since the abundance of greenery on the plant will be a hindrance.

Watering frequency

Although Malvina can safely be called a drought-resistant variety, lack of moisture does not have the best effect on the harvest - the berries will be small and not juicy enough. In addition, moisture deficiency leads to degeneration of the variety.

To obtain a bountiful harvest, watering should be carried out as needed: be guided by the top layer of soil - lower your outstretched fingers into the soil next to the bush to the level of the beginning of your palm: if your fingertips do not feel moisture, it’s time to water.

On average, 2-3 waterings per month will be enough, starting from May, you should focus on the following norm: 1 bucket per 1 m². Loamy soils require more water than light soils. An excellent solution for strawberries would be to organize drip irrigation.

Fertilizer application

Malvina, although not distinguished by a capricious disposition, reacts painfully to nitrogen deficiency. In order to avoid such events, two foliar fertilizings with nitrogen (for example, saltpeter) are performed during the entire growing season. The concentration of the fertilizer solution should be 2 times less than for root feeding. The procedure is performed during the growth of green mass and flower stalks.

Important! Foliar feeding is not done before rain or in sunny weather. The sun's rays, in combination with fertilizer on the leaf plate, can cause burns, and rain will simply wash away the solution.

Malvina accepts organic feeding well, supplemented with ash and superphosphate. Since nitrogen from organic fertilizers enters the soil and, accordingly, the plant gradually, it lasts for a long time in the required concentration.

Instead of mineral potassium fertilizers, you can use a solution of ash, or add it to the soil with loosening and subsequent watering.

Potassium is also extremely important for the normal development of the plant. A good option is potassium sulfate; other potash fertilizers are also possible, the main thing is that they do not contain chlorine. Such fertilizers are used in the very beginning of the growing season.

Pest and disease control

Diseases that pose the greatest danger to Malvina:

1. Fusarium. The disease first of all affects the roots, then the leaves wither and the stems rot.
2. Late blight. The bush stops growing, the leaves and inflorescences wither, the root system turns red and then dies.
3. Late blight leather rot. The stem darkens at the base, the ovaries dry out, and the fruits become bitter. As preventive measures to prevent this and the two diseases listed above, before planting, “Glyokladin” is poured into the holes, according to the instructions. The drug Trichoderma Veride is used for treatment.
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4. Gray rot. The fruits and ovaries are covered with rusty spots with a gray coating. As a preventative measure, foliar treatment with Alirin is used. The first time is before the buds open, the second time is after harvesting.
5. All types of spotting. The leaf plate is covered with spots, the color corresponding to the name of the disease (brown, white, brown), after which parts of the leaf die at the site of the spots. Bordeaux mixture is used for prevention, and the same liquid and “Chorus” are used for treatment.
6. Viruses (mosaic, curling, wrinkling, etc.). Characteristic signs of virus damage are that the normal development and growth of the bush stops, the leaves become yellow. There are no effective treatments for viruses on strawberries - the affected bushes are removed from the beds outside the site and burned.

Pests that can become a threat to Malvina:

1. Weevil. A small bug (2-3 mm) with a long proboscis infects the buds. As a preventive measure, plantings are sprayed with an infusion of wormwood or tansy. To destroy the insect, use “Karbofos” and “Aliot” before the buds begin to set.
2. Strawberry transparent mite. It is difficult to see the mite due to its small size; it sucks moisture from the leaves, after which the leaf wrinkles and withers.

   
   For prevention, planting material is immersed in warm water (+46°C) for 15 minutes, then immediately placed in cold water, after which it is planted in holes. As an effective measure against the parasite, foliar treatment with “Fitoverm” or “Akarin”, four times during the growing season, has proven itself well.

3. Nematodes. Small (up to 1 mm) worms that feed on plant sap. They are afraid of marigolds and calendula growing next to strawberries.
4. Sawflies, elephant flies, bladderlegs, aphids, cicadas, whiteflies, spider mites. Plant foliage suffers from these pests. To protect strawberry plantings from them, before budding and after harvesting the fruits, the bushes are treated with Alatar. In addition, Fitoverm and Kleschevit are used according to the instructions.
5. Larvae of the May beetle, wireworm, mole cricket, cutworm on potatoes, root weevil, marsh centipede . Pests that destroy the root system. To combat them, “Karbofos” is used, and “Phenaxin Plus” baits help well against mole crickets.

Preparing plantings for winter

Malvina must be covered for the winter. This is done in late autumn, just before the onset of frost. The easiest way to cover is to hill up the bush. You can hill up with the same soil in which the bush grows, but it is better to use peat or humus.

The most effective method of winter shelter is, of course, mulching.

The material for mulch can be pine litter, foliage of non-fruit trees and shrubs (to prevent parasites), dried flower greens, hay, sawdust, dry grass, peat.

In addition, the necessary protection will be created by additional snow piled on the bushes. If the winter is very frosty or there is no snow at all, you can use non-woven fabric, agrofibre (spunbond, agrospan). In the case of using fiber, it is a good idea to use frame arches, although you can do without them. The fiber should be removed immediately as soon as the first spring thaw occurs, otherwise the plants will die.

Description of the variety

Reaching 50 cm in height and 40–50 cm in diameter, Malvina bushes look strong and powerful. The variety is multi-horned - one plant produces from 5 to 8 pedicels, each of which can contain up to 6 bisexual flowers. The leaves are large, with a shiny surface, dark green in color, located horizontally to the surface of the ground, preventing rapid drying out of the soil in hot weather. Beneath them are flower stalks.

The plant blooms in early June, and fruiting occurs in the last quarter of June.

On average, the weight of the berries ranges from 35 to 45 g; individual specimens can grow up to 80 g. The fruits are bright and attractive, deep red in color, with a shiny glossy surface. A well-ripened berry will have a cherry hue. The shape of the fruit resembles a shortened cone with a relief surface.

The consistency of Malvina pulp is very dense, but juicy. The variety is classified as a dessert variety due to the high sugar content in the berries. The aroma is bright and pleasant.

Tasters highly appreciate the sweet taste of strawberries - 4.6 points out of 5 possible.

Reviews from gardeners

Roman, 38 years old, Zaporozhye

We are familiar with the Malvina strawberry variety firsthand; we have been growing it for several years. We bought frigo seedlings from a Polish nursery. Now we are updating and expanding the plantation with our seedlings. It bears fruit here in the third decade of June, when the berries on all early varieties have already departed, and most of the remontant ones are resting. The harvest pleases not so much with the quantity as with the quality of the berries. They are almost ideal in shape and size: mostly large and medium, there are almost no small ones. Some grew up to 50 g. Ripe fruits are uniformly dark red in color, have a rich sweet and sour taste and a delicious aroma. It is impossible to pass by such a berry indifferently!

Victoria, 44 years old, Kemerovo

Of the new strawberry products, I noticed Malvina. The variety is very promising, hardy, and competitive. The bushes are voluminous and lush; they need to be planted at a sufficiently large distance from each other and between rows (at least half a meter). The berries are all hidden under thick foliage, which protects them from sunburn. I liked that neither prolonged heavy rains nor summer heat affected the quality and taste. The pulp is dense and juicy, not watery or dry, moderately sweet, with a pleasant light sourness. The plants overwinter safely, so far there have been no losses. They also tolerate drought well, but of course it is better to water them. They respond well to fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers and organic matter.

Characteristics of the variety

With proper care, 0.5–1 kg of fruits are collected from one bush. Having a dense consistency and durable skin, the berry can easily withstand long-term transportation, which allows it to be grown for sale.

Malvina is a late-ripening variety; the first fruits can be tasted at the end of June. The fruiting period lasts until mid-July.

The ripening period of the berry is influenced not only by weather conditions, but also by the age of the plant: the older the bush, the later it bears fruit.

Thanks to its bisexual flowers, the variety does not require pollinators. Therefore, even in windy and rainy weather, when pollinating insects are rare guests in the garden, the harvest will ripen on time. During the period of damp and rainy weather, when the berries of most varieties begin to deteriorate, Malvina does not lose its taste.

The frost resistance of the variety is quite good - down to -19°C. In the southern regions, in the absence of snow cover, the variety tolerates winter well. It also grows well in central Russia, but under covering material.

The variety shows good immunity to powdery mildew and gray rot. But it is susceptible to fusarium and verticillium, as well as to weevils and thrips.

a brief description of

Advantages of the variety

Gardeners purchase the Malvina variety primarily because of its late fruiting period. There are other important advantages:

• high percentage of 1st class berries;
• high educational ability;
• self-pollinating (not all modern varieties are self-pollinating, for example, Pandora requires replanting with pollinator varieties);
• excellent taste, excellent combination of sweetness and pronounced strawberry aroma;
• the fruits are beautiful in shape and color, retain their presentation for several days after picking, and do not deteriorate during transportation;
• in a damp climate the berry does not get sick and does not become sour;
• tolerates heat and drought well thanks to its huge spreading leaves;
• high resistance to most diseases of strawberry crops, especially verticillium wilt and powdery mildew

Disadvantages of the variety

• huge bushes take up a lot of space in the garden;
• not the highest yield.
• Can be affected by thrips and weevils

Strawberry variety Malvina lends itself well to freezing. Before placing them in the freezer, the fruits are sorted, washed in a colander and the water is allowed to drain completely. Clean, dry fruits are placed in bags. In this form, the berry is perfectly stored for 5-6 months.

How to plant Malvina strawberries correctly

Tall and powerful bushes require a special planting scheme. Strawberries do not tolerate thickening, so you need to try to allocate as much space as possible for them.

Site selection

To plant strawberries, choose a flat, well-lit area protected from the wind, possibly on a slight slope. The beds should be located from north to south or southwest.

The area for strawberries should be level, well lit and located in a place protected from the wind.

Loose, cultivated and weed-free soil is suitable for strawberries. Malvina will produce good harvests on loams, chernozems and sandstones.

The following areas are not suitable for a strawberry bed:

• in the shade, under the crowns of mature trees - the harvest will be small, the berries will be small;
• in the lowlands - the accumulation of cold air can delay the ripening of the crop by 10 days;
• on steep slopes - the soil dries out too quickly and the soil is washed away. Exposure of the root system is unfavorable for the development of strawberries;
• with groundwater lying above 70 cm to the surface - during the period of snow melting, the roots will be flooded and the plant will die;
• with sandy soils - in such areas strawberries will not have enough water and nutrients.

The Malvina variety is grown in one place for up to 5 years. You can alternate planting berries with:

• legumes;
• greens;
• root vegetables (beets, carrots, radishes, turnips, radishes);
• cabbage;
• flowers (marigolds or bulbs, for example, daffodils, tulips).

It is not recommended to plant strawberries after:

• pumpkins;
• zucchini;
• cucumbers;
• watermelons and melons;
• tomatoes.

Potatoes especially inhibit strawberry plantings due to specific root secretions.

Selection of seedlings

Choose well-formed and vigorous plants with 3 to 5 leaves. Weak bushes are more susceptible to disease and have low yields. Healthy seedlings must meet the following requirements:

• the roots are light, fibrous, 5–7 cm long. The dark color of the root system indicates the age or disease of the specimen;
• the leaves should be bright green, without signs of damage;
• the central bud shows no signs of rot or exposure to parasites.

When buying seedlings, you should pay attention to the heart - it should be without signs of damage by diseases and pests

Site preparation

Prepare a bed for strawberries in advance: if you plant in the fall, then at the end of summer, if in the spring, then dig up and apply fertilizer in September. This is necessary for the soil to settle and become structured after processing.

• The site is dug as deep as possible, about 20–30 cm. Strawberries do not tolerate high concentrations of salts in the soil, so it is advisable to apply fertilizers during soil preparation, and not when planting in holes. This way the nutrients will dissolve and be more easily absorbed by the plant.
• Per 1 m2 of plot with loamy soils, add 1 bucket of well-rotted manure or compost for digging. Instead of organics, you can use nitroammophoska or nitrophoska - 2 tbsp. l. per 1 m2.
• In sandy soils, add up to 3 buckets of rotted manure or compost per 1 m2; you can add sawdust.
• To make heavy clay soils loose, be sure to add 3–4 kg of river sand and 2–3 buckets of organic matter (per 1 m2 of land).

The soil should be neutral or slightly acidic. At pH levels below 5.5, liming is carried out with dolomite flour. The application rate is 4 kg per 1 m2. Valid for up to 4 years, that is, during the period of growing strawberries in this area, the procedure is carried out once.

To give sandy soil the desired structure, sawdust is added to digging along with organic matter.

Landing dates

Summer planting is not recommended for Malvina; spring planting is considered more promising. Malvina strawberries bear fruit late; they can be planted only after the plant has set buds, at the end of August or September. But if early cold weather sets in, the seedlings may not take root and freeze.

Spring planting dates vary depending on the region. In the southern regions, strawberries are planted in mid or late April, in the middle zone - in early May.

According to many experienced summer residents, spring is the best time to plant Malvina

Planting Malvina strawberries in a few steps

Planting is carried out on cloudy days or in the evening. If you plant seedlings in the sun, moisture will evaporate greatly and unrooted bushes will die.

To mark the rows, use a taut rope to ensure the bed is level.

Before planting, overgrown roots need to be shortened to 5–7 cm, then dipped in clay mash (clay mixed with mullein and water until creamy).

The standard scheme for planting strawberries of this variety is not suitable. Tall bushes require more free space so that everyone gets the right amount of sunlight. With the most popular two-line planting (in two rows along the edges of the bed), the distance between the bushes is maintained at 50 cm; between rows - 70 cm.

How to plant strawberries:

1. Dig holes measuring 25x25 cm at a measured distance.
2. Water them well and lower the seedlings vertically into the hole. Avoid bending or twisting the roots.
3. The heart should be strictly at ground level. Deepening will lead to rotting, and high planting will lead to drying out.

   After planting, the strawberry heart should be level with the ground.

4. Lightly compact the soil around the bush.
5. Water the seedlings again, but not at the root, but around the plant. After absorbing moisture, mulch the surface of the ground.

The first harvest will not be abundant, but the next year the strawberries will produce more fruit.

Planting strawberries on agrofibre - video

Proper planting of garden strawberries

How strawberries will feel on your site is influenced not only by proper care, but also by how the seedlings were planted. Was the site selected correctly, was the planting technique followed, etc.

In order for the berries to ripen well and have a lower risk of fungal diseases, the plant should be planted in a sunny area with good aeration.

In addition, the site must be level, fertile and loose.

They begin to prepare a place for strawberries approximately a month before the start of planting work. Preparation consists of the following manipulations:

1. The area is first cleared of weeds. Weeds have a depressing effect on the crop. In addition, if you plant seedlings in an area with grass, there is a chance that they will not have enough nutrients and will not get stronger before winter. Therefore, the area must be clean.
2. The cleaned area needs to be dug up so that the soil becomes loose and enriched with oxygen.
3. The soil needs to be fertilized. Sand and humus are added to it. If the soil is very acidic, which is bad for growing this crop, then wood ash is added to it.

When purchasing seedlings, it is very important to visually assess its quality. It should be without visible damage, stains, or growths. The leaves should not be pale in color.

The timing of planting seedlings in OG depends on the growing region. Closer to the south of the country, seedlings are planted (if we talk about autumn), at the beginning of October. Closer to the North, planting is carried out earlier, in August-September.

The planting scheme for Malvina garden strawberries is as follows:

1. In the prepared area, holes are dug about 15-20 cm deep.
2. The distance between the beds is left at least 35 cm (the more, the better).
3. The row spacing is 60-70 cm. This will simplify harvesting and allow you to care for the crop without any problems.
4. When the hole is dug, it is watered abundantly. 1 hole uses about 1 liter of water.
5. When the water is absorbed, a seedling is placed in the hole. Its root system is carefully straightened (it should be in a vertical position) and sprinkled with soil. The soil is compacted.
6. When the planting work is completed, each bush is watered with water (about 1 liter per plant).

We also recommend reading: Description of the Black Prince strawberry variety

Rules for caring for plantings

When performing agricultural work, it is better to take into account the characteristics of a particular variety, because each of them requires individual care. It is important to understand what you want to get: if there is a good harvest, you need to cut off all the strawberry tendrils; if there are seedlings, you need to sacrifice the harvest.

Watering

For normal rooting and development of strawberry seedlings planted in spring, almost daily watering is required in summer. But they need to be done in the evening so that drops of water falling on the leaves do not cause a burn.

If planting was carried out in the fall, the bushes begin to be watered with the onset of the growing season - at the end of April. Until summer, water once a week (30 liters per 1 m2). From June to early autumn, the frequency increases to 2 times a week, but precipitation should also be taken into account.

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Watering must be carried out:

• at the moment of formation of ovaries;
• when the berries are filled and there is abundant fruiting;
• during the formation of flower buds of the future harvest.

Malvina can withstand short-term droughts, but if there is insufficient moisture, the berry will become bitter and will be smaller in size.

If possible, give preference to drip irrigation of strawberries

Top dressing

Feeding should be done regularly:

1. At the beginning of foliage growth, it is necessary to add nitrogen to the soil, which will ensure the formation of berries. To do this, you can use a solution of ammonium nitrate, which is applied by the foliar method (15 g per 1 m2). A good fertilizer option is 10 g of urea per 1 m2 of soil, as well as a solution of bird droppings (1:50) or cow manure (1:10).
2. During the flowering period of strawberries, apply 15–20 g (per 1 m2) of complex mineral fertilizers with a high content of phosphorus, nitrogen, and potassium.
3. After picking the berries, in order for strong fruit buds to form, a third feeding is carried out: 15–20 g of sodium chloride or superphosphate is applied per 1 m2 of soil.
4. Feeding strawberries with superphosphate will improve the taste of the fruit. It is recommended to apply fertilizer 3-4 times per season. The most effective solution is considered to be a solution of cow manure (1:6), ash (1 glass per 10 liters of water) and 40 g of superphosphate.

As a dry fertilizer, you can add ash, which replaces superphosphate. It is scattered along the rows: once in the spring, with mulching of the soil, and again after fruiting and pruning the bushes. You can make an infusion and water the beds with it as a liquid fertilizer. For the solution, take 1 glass of ash and pour 1 liter of boiling water. Leave for a day, filter and add another 9 liters of water. To water 1 m2, 1 liter of mixture is enough.

Organic solutions - essential nutrition to increase strawberry yields

Loosening and weeding

To maintain cleanliness in strawberry plantings, be sure to weed. In this way, you will not only rid the plant of competitors for food and moisture, but also allow the bushes to receive enough lighting. Weed carefully so as not to damage the shallow roots. Weeds that have grown into the bush must be carefully trimmed with scissors.

Loosening and weeding help keep strawberry plantings clean

A day after watering or rain, loosening should be done. It improves heat and gas exchange in the soil and significantly reduces the rate of evaporation of the liquid necessary to moisten the roots.

When the process of ovary formation begins, loosening stops and mulch is poured onto the strawberry bed.

Mulching

Mulching is a great way to eliminate the need to frequently weed and loosen plantings. It slows down the growth of weeds and reduces moisture evaporation after watering. The benefit is that the berry lying on the substrate dries quickly and remains clean even after heavy rain.

Many summer residents use black film as mulch, but it does not allow air to pass through, and the strawberry roots rot, forming pathogenic microflora.

Mulch slows down the growth of weeds and reduces moisture evaporation after watering

Caring for strawberries after fruiting

After harvesting the last berries:

• Weed (very carefully) the beds of weeds, remove unnecessary tendrils, cut off old leaves;
• collect dried leaves from the ground, in which disease spreaders and pests live;
• fertilize with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and treat the bushes against parasites.

These simple techniques will help strawberries prepare for winter and survive it safely.

Autumn strawberry care involves removing dried leaves

Winter shelter

Malvina tolerates frosts well if there is natural shelter in the form of snow cover. But in regions with an unstable climate, where frosts give way to thaws, then a drop in temperature again, you need to take care of how to insulate the strawberry beds.

A thick layer of mulch made from dry grass, straw, corn leaves, sawdust, spruce branches or pine needles will protect the plantings well. If the site is in an open area, agrofibre or a greenhouse on arcs will be suitable.

You can cover strawberries for the winter with pine or spruce branches.

Each method of protection has its own disadvantages. Field mice can live in the straw; they will certainly spoil the strawberry roots, and the pine needles greatly acidify the soil.

In the southern regions, where winters have little snow but are quite mild, the issue of covering material for strawberries is not so pressing - Malvina will be able to survive the winter in open ground.

Care

Proper care is an important component of obtaining a full harvest.

Feeding

This strawberry does not tolerate nitrogen deficiency well. To compensate for it, you can make 2 foliar feedings per season with a solution of nitrogen fertilizer, for example, ammonium nitrate with a concentration 2 times less than for root feeding. They should be carried out during the period of growth of leaves and extension of flower stalks.

Warning! Do not apply foliar feeding in sunny weather or just before rain.

In the first case, the leaves may get burned, and in the second, the fertilizer simply does not have time to be absorbed.

For Malvina strawberries, organic fertilizers with the addition of ash and superphosphate are preferable. Nitrogen is released from organic matter gradually. This allows you to maintain its sufficient concentration for a long time.

Strawberries also need potassium just as much as nitrogen. You can feed it with a potassium fertilizer that does not contain chlorine, such as potassium sulfate. This feeding is carried out at the beginning of the growing season. An alternative option is feeding with ash in dry form or in the form of a solution. In addition to potassium, ash contains many microelements that plants need for successful growth. Advice! After dry fertilizing, the beds need to be loosened and watered.

Watering

Malvina needs moisture more than other varieties to develop well and obtain a full harvest. If it is deficient, the berries may have a bitter taste. Therefore, watering, especially during dry periods, is mandatory for it.

Warning! You should not plant this variety of strawberries in beds mulched with geotextiles.

The dark color of the material can lead to drying out of the root system, which is undesirable for Malvina.

All features of the variety are shown in the video:

Diseases and pests of Malvina strawberries

The Malvina variety is considered resistant to diseases, but there is always a risk of being affected by one or another of them.

Diseases and pests of Malvina strawberries - table

Signs of strawberries being damaged by diseases and pests - photo gallery

The main sign of verticillium is drying of the lower leaves and redness of the strawberry petioles.

With fusarium, the above-ground part of the bush is affected simultaneously with the roots

Brown spot gradually leads to the death of strawberry leaves

The weevil reduces yield by attacking buds

Thrips weakens strawberry resistance to other diseases

Reproduction

The abundance of tendrils makes it easy to propagate strawberries. The process goes like this:

• in the first year after planting, the tendrils are removed and only then harvested;
• those bushes that survived the winter well are selected for propagation;
• the buds of the selected ones are torn off so that they do not bloom and, accordingly, do not bear fruit;
• already in June large mustaches begin to appear, on which rosettes will later form;
• after the roots appear on the first rosette, it is pinned to the ground and deepened a little into the soil;
• rooted rosettes are regularly watered;
• As soon as the seedlings take root, they should be cut off from the mother bush. It is best to do this 2 weeks before landing in a new place;
• at the end of August, the seedlings are transplanted to a new location.

Attention! Experts recommend updating mother bushes every three years.

How to collect and preserve the harvest

Even before the berries are ripe, you can put straw or dry grass under the bushes: this way the fruits will not get dirty when harvesting.

It is best to pick the berries in the morning, after the dew has dried. Immediately before harvesting, prepare small containers (wooden boxes or bast baskets) where you will place the fruits in 2-3 layers. Berries should not be allowed to overripe; this reduces the quantity and quality of the harvest. Too ripe strawberries do not last long.

When picking, try to pinch off the berry along with the sepals and stalk so that it can be stored longer. Immediately sort, setting aside whole strawberries from small, crushed or spoiled ones. Collect rotten fruits in separate containers and take them away immediately to prevent damage to other bushes.

Try to harvest strawberries in small containers made from natural materials

If you had to pick strawberries after rain, spread them out in one layer and leave them in a cool place in a small draft or under a fan.

For storage, try to select the best berries and place them in containers with holes to avoid molding. There is no need to wash the fruits. Strawberries will keep well on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for up to 5-7 days.

Frozen berries can be stored for up to six months. Before placing them in the refrigerator, sort the strawberries, wash and dry them. Place the fruits in portioned bags and place in the freezer.

Malvina strawberries are incredibly good and healthy when eaten fresh. But with a large harvest, you can make a lot of wonderful preparations from sweet and aromatic fruits. Traditional dishes include preserves, jams, strawberries in their own juice, jellies and compotes. But if you do a little magic in the kitchen, you can surprise your family with marshmallows, marmalade or marshmallows made from ripe berries. Bon appetit!

Homemade strawberry preparations are healthier and tastier than store-bought sweets

Advantages and disadvantages of Malvina strawberries

This variety is quite popular among farmers. He gained such fame thanks to a number of positive qualities. Among the main advantages of Malvina they note:

1. This variety of garden strawberry tolerates wintering well in temperate climates.
2. Malvina has a very good immune system. Strawberries are not afraid of a number of diseases.
3. The variety bears fruit quickly. From flowering to the first harvest, only about 30 days pass.
4. Berries have a universal purpose. They are suitable for freezing, eating fresh, making jam, etc.
5. The bushes form a normal number of tendrils, making strawberries very easy to propagate.
6. The berries have good commercial quality. The fruits are stored for quite a long time and are easily transported over long distances.

Are there any disadvantages? Yes. Like any other garden strawberry, Malvina has its fly in the ointment. The main disadvantages of this variety include:

1. In regions with cold climates, the plant requires additional insulation.
2. Malvina bushes are vigorous and very spreading. They need a lot of space, which is why this variety takes up a lot of territory.
3. Despite its strong immunity, this variety is quite susceptible to diseases such as gray rot and brown spot.

Reviews

There are mostly positive reviews about Malvina strawberries on the Internet. Let's list some of them.

Ivan, 48 years old, Minsk The variety was purchased in Poland, the seedlings were grown using the Frido technology. Thanks to the large number of mustaches, they quickly multiplied. Now we have a good plantation. Due to the late ripening period, the berries are sold quickly and are in great demand. The taste of the berries is excellent, they themselves are smooth, they stay fresh for a long time - up to 10 days in the refrigerator. I recommend to everyone!

Maria, 42 years old, Kursk I tried a new strawberry variety - the Malvina variety, and was never disappointed. The berries are tasty and juicy. They do not change their taste either in hot or rainy weather - a real find for gardeners. But it is necessary to water during drought, otherwise the berries will become smaller. The variety responds well to fertilizing.

Planting strawberries: selection of location and timing

The correct choice of location, implementation of all the required agricultural technology when growing Malvina strawberries, as well as timely planting of plants, guarantee an excellent harvest.

Selecting a location

1. A suitable place for seedlings would be an area with a straight surface , where there are no drafts or weeds.
2. Garden strawberries are not very picky about the soil , but it is still better to plant them on light, fertile soils.

The optimal place for Malvina strawberries will be an area with a flat surface.
The second half of August or the first days of September are well suited for planting the plant. Before this, you should prepare the beds, dig them 25-30 cm deep (about a month in advance).

Planting scheme

It is better to choose strong seedlings with a developed rosette. Strawberry roots should have a powerful lobe. It is advisable to plant in rows. Large bushes require more space and light.

It is best to place seedlings in rows

Before planting, you need to pour water into the hole . When it has been absorbed, carefully introduce the seedlings, straighten the roots, fill them with soil and press down lightly. After which the seedling is watered again, but not at the very root, but near it. Then watering is done 2 times a day until the plant takes root. As a rule, Malvina strawberries quickly adapt to a new place.

Landing

Due to the late laying of flower stalks, autumn planting is not suitable for Malvina. Young plants may not have time to adapt and will die with the first frost. In the southern regions, Malvina is planted in March-April, in temperate latitudes - in May.

The best place for seedlings is a flat, draft-free area that is well lit by sunlight. Light, fertile soil will benefit Malvina and allow it to reveal itself in all its glory. Groundwater must be located at a depth of more than 1.0 m from the surface of the earth. The acidity should be neutral, the optimal value is 5.2-5.5 pH. Seedlings are selected with a developed rosette. The roots should have a powerful lobe.

When preparing the ridge, an increased dose of organic matter is added to the soil, at least 12 kg. manure (nitrogen) and 200 g of ash (phosphorus, potassium) per 1 m2.

The planting pattern differs from the standard one. Leave at least 60 cm between bushes, 80 cm between rows. This pattern is due to very large tall bushes that form 7-9 horns. The rows are arranged from north to south for better illumination.

Before planting, water is first poured into the hole. After absorption, the seedlings are planted, the roots are straightened, the hole is filled with soil, and the soil is lightly compacted. Water the bushes again. For the first 7-10 days, watering is carried out daily.

Strawberry propagation

Malvina strawberries can be propagated in several ways. The most convenient and widespread is propagation by mustaches, since the crop produces many newly formed seedlings.

Usami

The mustache is transplanted at the end of spring. For transplantation, it is necessary to select the healthiest representatives. To get high-quality tendrils for transplanting, you do not need to grow berries and newly formed sprouts at the same time.

Step-by-step process for propagating strawberries with a mustache:

1. On the selected bush, identify the uterine tendrils, determine those that will be used for propagation.
2. When rosettes appear on the tendrils, and they, in turn, send out roots, they are attached to the soil and lightly sprinkled onto the ground.
3. About 2 times a week, the rosette is irrigated with a small watering can. The soil around the outlet should be slightly moist. If the weather is rainy, it is recommended to carry out loosening.
4. The future site for planting the bush is treated within 2-3 days, thoroughly loosened and sprinkled with sifted sand.
5. A rosette suitable for transplantation must be healthy, have 4 leaves, and a root 5 cm long.
6. Cut a mustache from the mother bush, about 10 cm in length. Carefully removing the root system of the new rosette, transfer the new plant to the prepared place.
7. The depth of the planting hole should be 2.5-3 cm.
8. The distance between bushes should be 30 cm, and between rows - 50 cm.

The resulting rows must be covered with agrofibre.

By division

Strawberries can also be propagated by division. The method is simple, but there is a risk of infection of the bush and failure.

Algorithm for performing the work:

1. Carefully remove a strong bush suitable for division from the soil.
2. Remove excess parts of the plant and dried leaves.
3. Place the root system in a bucket filled with a low concentration potassium permanganate solution.
4. Disinfect the knife. Divide the prepared bush into 2 parts. Dry both parts of the plant for 60-80 minutes.
5. Carefully treat the cut areas with ash and remove damaged areas of the plant.

The plant is ready for planting. The propagated parts of strawberries can be planted first in a pot and then in an open area. The plant must be planted in accordance with the diagram.

Seeds

Propagating strawberries by seeds is a long and painstaking job.

Sowing can be done in boxes or separate containers. When working with seeds, you should not bury the planting material, but lightly press them with your finger.

Comparison of strawberries Roxana and Malvina

The list of the best mid-late varieties of strawberries, well adapted for growth in the middle zone, includes many species, the Malvina and Roxana strawberry varieties are considered the most famous among them. Some characteristics of these hybrids are identical, but they also have differences. Roxana has a shorter life cycle; after 4 years, it’s time to renew the bushes. The berries of this variety are characterized by bizarre shapes, and this reduces their commercial properties. The advantages of Roxana compared to Malvina are known, among them:

1. Very high yields - from 1 hundred square meters of strawberries you can harvest up to 100 kg of berries.
2. The unforgettable taste of berries - on a five-point scale, the rating was 4.6 points.
3. High frost resistance - provided that it is well covered, strawberries can easily survive frosts down to -30°C.