Forming a climbing rose as a bush: how to prune correctly after flowering

Why do rose growers prune climbing climbing roses in the spring or prune hybrid tea roses in the fall, which was described in the article?

We will answer this frequently asked question from rose bush lovers briefly.

Crowns were formed, which is no less important when planting and caring for rock juniper;
Removal of diseased, thin, weakened, dry shoots;
Timely care was observed;
The planned necessary regrowth of new shoots has occurred;
The result was abundant and long-lasting flowering;
Pruning roses in the spring helps keep the bushes healthy and strong;
Pruning helps to achieve a continuous covering of rose shoots, the object in which the roses themselves grow. This could be a fence, a bench, a house, or a hedge of climbing plants, described earlier.

Features of pruning climbing roses

Rose pruning

A climbing rose, the pruning of which is included in the mandatory shrub care program, without this procedure will quickly weaken and become an easy target for diseases and pests. Such shrubs produce few flowers and become not a decoration, but a disaster for the flower bed.

Is pruning necessary?

Regular manipulations should take place at least twice a year. This approach will help to create a beautiful appearance, improve winter hardiness, and increase the duration and abundance of flowering.

Important! Ignoring an important procedure will lead to the gradual wilding of the culture, its degeneration into rose hips. The plant will become easy prey for parasitic insects and diseases, lose its attractiveness and die over time.

Main information about the procedure

Under what conditions is it necessary to prune in spring?

There are three types of pruning:

preventive, which is often used when caring for the delphinium described in the material,
emerging,
thinning out.

Why is timely pruning necessary?

It is very important to follow the basic rules:

If you prune the bushes early, the buds may begin to grow during the warming period.
Frosts on the ground can destroy the regrown buds that have formed. It takes time for new buds to mature. It is for this reason that the flowering itself will linger for a long time. And this is definitely not what any owner of rose bushes wants.
The best pruning is to trim along dormant buds. It is then, when there is no return of frost, that anxious owners can begin pruning. This is around the end of April, beginning of May.
You need to monitor the weather forecast and not miss the pruning period. Since if you prune a little later than during the period of absence of frost, then such untimeliness will also not lead to anything good, the buds will no longer be in a dormant state, and not a single rose grower recommends cutting on awakened buds.

The procedure before, during and after flowering, what is the difference

Care and pruning of climbing roses depends on the season.

Spring period

How to propagate climbing roses by cuttings and layering

Manipulation is carried out immediately after the end of winter, while the roses are dormant. After awakening the kidneys, the procedure is prohibited. Each variety of shrubs has its own requirements:

for types with one-time flowering - thinning takes place according to the standard scheme, after which 54 shoots remain - biennial and annual;
for options with repeated budding - 4 one-year and 7 two-year shoots should remain on each plant, provided there is no autumn pruning.

Seedlings are not pruned immediately after spring planting, only damaged areas are excised. In the second and third years, 5 main and 2 side stems are left. Further manipulations are carried out as for adult shrubs.

Summer period

After budding is completed, there is no need to carry out much work. For once-blooming shoots, two-year-old shoots are completely removed, and young shoots are cut to the level of two buds. If necessary, damaged and diseased branches are excised.

For rose bushes with two blooms, drastic pruning is not required. Dried tops must be removed - approximately at the level of the upper five-leaf leaves. After the second wave of budding, cutting is not carried out.

Autumn period

Shrubs get rid of defective branches. The remaining procedures before wintering are carried out exclusively on the shoots: excision of diseased and weakened parts. This approach helps to rejuvenate adult individuals that are beginning to degenerate.

Important! Professionals believe that important events are held during the spring and summer seasons. With their help, you can modify the shape of the bush, improve the general condition and maintain immunity at the proper level.

Basic Rules

When to prune roses in spring, in what month

It is important not only “how” you will do this procedure, but also “when”. Therefore, many novice flower growers are at a loss when faced with the question of when exactly to prune roses in the spring. Before starting the procedure, you need to make sure that the night frosts have gone away and will not return, otherwise the impact of sudden frost will negatively affect the plant after the procedure. It is also important to start the event before the sap begins to flow. If you prune after the sap begins to flow, then perhaps the roses will bloom very sluggishly.

The timing of pruning in the spring may be different every year, because warming may occur at different periods. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to focus on the weather and the bush itself. The ideal time for the spring procedure is when warm weather has finally settled, the buds of the plant are swelling, but the shoots have not yet begun to grow. Typically this period occurs in March-April.

Note! The ideal day for the procedure is a warm, dry, sunny day.

In addition, regional characteristics of growth should be taken into account. For example, in dark regions with a temperate climate, it is optimal to prune in March or early April (Middle zone, south). And in the northern regions (Ural, Siberia) it is better to postpone the procedure until the end of May. After all, the soil in such areas warms up slowly and there is a risk that frost will suddenly return.

Tools for pruning climbing roses

How to prune Kalanchoe: examples of bush formation and further flower care

To carry out the procedures, most gardeners use pruning shears, which work on the principle of ordinary scissors. The tool allows you to cut off the excess without flattening the stem or damaging the bark.

For roses, they use a separate tool, which is regularly disinfected and sharpened. Storage takes place after treatment with grease.

In addition to pruning shears, a saw and a lopper can be used. The first one is needed to remove old shoots, the second one is needed to get rid of thick branches.

Required Tools

Common mistakes

A faded plant is very easily restored and increases its vegetative mass, so mistakes made during pruning can be easily corrected. However, some mistakes are best avoided right away.

It happens that the rose begins to grow below the grafting site. This kind of growth is called wild. The leaf blades on such branches are small, similar to rose hips. It is impossible to preserve such shoots, so as not to lose all the beauty of the varietal beauty.

Wild shoots are not just cut flush with the ground. You need to try to carefully dig up the bush and remove the growth as deep as possible.

It is correct to cut the shoots exactly at the growth point, only slightly retreating from it. A cut made higher will cause the remaining part of the stem to rot, attracting pathogenic flora and creating an untidy appearance of the plant.

Types of pruning garden roses, for what purposes it is used

How to prune a climbing rose? Professionals prefer to use several methods when doing the following types of haircuts:

Formative - carried out after planting under the open sky and in the summer season. If the shrubs were planted in the spring, then you should not delay the formation: a properly trimmed plant while maintaining symmetry will develop better.
Sanitary - carried out with the onset of heat, after removing the cover from the bushes. Dried, frozen and diseased parts are excised, as a result only living shoots remain on the bush. During the autumn procedure, young shoots that have not yet formed and are not able to survive the cold are removed. In the summer, it is carried out as needed.
Thinning - used to improve the health of the plant and improve its appearance. Excessively dense thickets prevent air and sunlight from penetrating inside and become a refuge for garden pests and infections. The process is carried out with the arrival of spring warmth and involves excision of excess, weak and inwardly growing branches.
Rejuvenating - necessary to improve budding rates. It is better to cut old branches at the root; these include shoots older than 4 years.

Important! Anti-aging pruning is carried out after sanitary pruning, in early spring. It allows you to prevent the degeneration of buds into small-flowered forms and improve the shrub itself.

Rose pruning should be done with a clean tool.

What are the ground rules?

Having studied the purpose of pruning, we will consider several rules with the help of which you can easily and simply carry out this action.

With home climbing roses you need to work only with sharply sharpened scissors. If you do not apply this rule, then the cut of the shoot may simply become wrinkled, and the bark and wood may dry out. This can lead to a source of infection.
The stems must be trimmed to healthy tissue. The core of the shoot should be white.
Dry and unhealthy, dehydrated, thin, weakened shoots are removed to the base. They are subsequently burned.
If several stems form at the base of one bud, then it is worth removing everything, leaving one of the most powerful shoots.
The cut must be made obliquely (approximately no higher than 5 mm above the bud of the bush). This is necessary so that moisture does not get on the kidney and a source of infection does not form. And if you cut below the buds, you can damage the plant itself.

Forming a climbing rose bush, step-by-step instructions

According to generally accepted rules, the formation of a climbing rose begins with a step-by-step diagram:

Even when carrying out planting work, the florist must direct the shoots in the right direction. Climbing plants need a garter; this approach will help them produce the maximum number of flowers.
When creating the shape of a bush, you do not need to direct all the main branches straight up. This will cause a problem in which foliage and buds will begin to form only on the upper part of the plant.
The main main branches are directed horizontally, which allows the formation of vertically growing side shoots on them. This technique ensures active and lush ripening of buds and helps hide an ugly wall or hedge behind greenery.
If shrubs are planted along a continuous structure, then the main branches are used to create something like a fan. This method will help improve air circulation and stimulate the growth of side shoots. If the plant is located near a pole, then the branches can be twisted in a spiral.

Shrub formation

How to properly form a climbing rose? After choosing the appropriate option, do not forget about the rules of garter:

the stems must be securely and firmly attached to the supports - this will help prevent them from being damaged by the wind;
the dressing material should not cut into the shoot and cause injury;
You cannot use wire ties, even those wrapped in paper; it is better to use plastic twine, which will cause less damage to the stems.

Important! After completing the procedure, it is necessary to regularly check the condition of arches, pillars, gratings and other fasteners. Under the influence of gusty winds and the weight of the bushes, they can break. Repairing a broken rose will be difficult and sometimes impossible.

Manipulations with sorting rose buds

The flowering plant that has the fewest leaves and shoots that consume the lion's share of nutrition produces the largest flowers.

If you have a bush type rose, you can prune it back to about 12 inches, leaving four to six main canes. This usually results in a small bush with several large flowers.

Conversely, the same plant can be pruned to 60cm tall with seven to twelve canes, for a taller bush with more leaves and numerous – but small – flowers.

Shrub roses are certainly magical, but we can stimulate flowering. By cutting the stems at a 45-degree angle outward, 10 to 15 cm below the faded flower, the plant will produce strong stems for new flower clusters.

If the withered buds are removed by simply pinching them off at their base, the new growth will be thin and the beautiful flowers may bow their heads to the ground.

Pruning scheme for climbing varieties

How to prune climbing roses correctly? To carry out the procedure, you must adhere to standard recommendations. With the right approach, the plant will tolerate manipulation more easily and will form many buds in the summer.

The rules for pruning rose bushes include the following points:

A sunny and windless day is selected for work. If the plants have thick, bark-covered branches, then take a hacksaw. For thin and young shoots, it is enough to use pruning shears.
Before the procedure, all instruments are disinfected and well sharpened. Sharp blades will not cause serious damage, but dull blades will create lacerations, which will subsequently become an entry point for infection.
The shoots are cut at an angle of 45 degrees, the cut is beveled and not straight. The buds on the stems are left on the outside so that the young growth grows outside and does not create weaves inside the bush.
A distance of 1 cm is left from the pruning site to the bud. This is how the main branches are cut. Sprouted young shoots located at the base are excised. This wild growth requires removal of shoots below the soil level.
Light pruning is used, removing damaged and dry ends of branches. It passes to the first living bud. Then thin and excessively short stems are removed.
Then thinning is carried out: shoots from the main shoots located inside the bush are subject to excision. If there are old, woody stems (over three years of age), they are cut off at the root. If they are younger, then they are shortened, leaving them at a distance of 50 cm from the base of the crop.
The procedure is completed by treating the cut areas with garden varnish. To prevent attacks by parasitic insects and diseases, the plant is sprayed with a 1% solution of copper sulfate.

Important! If the bush is left in its original state, then after one season it will lose its decorative effect. The flowers will become small and sparse, and the green above-ground part will look like wild thickets of weeds.

Well-groomed rose

Tool requirements

Climbing roses are pruned with a sharp, well-sharpened pruner or garden knife. Before the trimming procedure, the blade must be disinfected with any antiseptic or treated with a strong solution of manganese.

You will also need a lopper with long handles and sharp blades. You need to wear thick gloves on your hands that will not damage the sharp thorns of the climbing rose. The loppers are also disinfected.

Important! If the bush has not been pruned for several years and the branches have become woody, you will need a hacksaw. Its blade also needs to be disinfected.

Caring for the bush after pruning

Any procedure involving the removal of branches is a serious stress for plants. One should strive to reduce the unpleasant effect and protect them from the negative consequences of the intervention. Flower growers advise carrying out the following activities:

Regular watering - once a week. The liquid for moistening the soil is first settled, warmed to room temperature, and only then the shrubs are watered. After each manipulation, the soil under the rose is loosened and sprouted weeds are removed.
Prevention - a week after removing the branches, the plant needs to be treated with insecticides and phytoncides. Home methods are not suitable for these purposes.
Mulching - peat and humus are used for the process. It helps prevent the growth of weeds and retains moisture in the soil. The procedure allows you to reduce the number of waterings and has a positive effect on the quality characteristics of the soil.
Before the formation of foliage, you can carry out additional fertilizing with complex fertilizer. It is better to take special store-bought formulations intended for garden roses.

Pruning climbing roses is a mandatory procedure. Without them, the plant will lose its main decorative qualities, bloom worse and quickly transform into an ordinary rose hip. If the manipulations are carried out accurately, the bush will not suffer, it will rejuvenate and quickly begin to create new shoots and flower buds.

Summer pruning

Thanks to this seasonal event, the flowering process can be regulated. Most of all, varieties that bloom several times a season need such cleaning. After the first flowering, dried inflorescences form on the bush, which spoil the decorative appearance of the rose.

To clean the bush, trim the upper parts of the shoots. The cut is made above the first developed bud, leaving at least 2 or 3 leaves on the stem. This cleaning will help the bush prepare for the next flowering, and will also save energy that it would have spent on forming fruits.

Additionally, too thick shoots that are directed inside the bush are pruned. Thus, the plant is formed and will have a neater and more beautiful appearance.

Important! Plants grown for seed production are not pruned in summer.