How to get rid of moss in greenhouses

Why does the soil turn green in a greenhouse?

The arrival of spring indicates the beginning of the dacha season and the appearance of pleasant chores along with it, but not only that. A number of problems have to be solved every year. So, for example, the sudden appearance of a green tint on a completely isolated piece of land, sheltered from the rest of the outside world, a greenhouse, can frighten many. Almost no one now takes up the use of chemicals, despite its active promotion by interested sellers. But how to defeat this scourge using folk remedies and whether it is possible and where it comes from is known to few.

General diagram of the greenhouse-thermos device.

Reasons for the appearance of green color on the soil in a greenhouse

Sectional diagram of a warm greenhouse.

Often everything is much simpler than it might seem. It is, of course, not because of the tomatoes in the greenhouse that the earth acquires an unnatural shade. The main reason is a violation of the microclimate inside the equipped greenhouse and irrigation regimes, which will be discussed in more detail in the next paragraph.

If we talk specifically about the green color of the soil in a greenhouse, without yet touching on the root causes that cause it, then we will talk about a change in the composition of the soil microflora, accompanied by a shift in the reaction of the acid-base balance. In simple terms, for various reasons, microorganisms and sometimes macroorganisms of plant origin begin to develop in the soil, naturally having a green color and, as a consequence, leading to the coloring of the earth in green in various shades. Such organisms are the well-known algae and mosses.

Naturally, this vegetation will be considered a weed, but it will not bring any particular negative consequences for the future harvest in the greenhouse, which cannot be said about the true root causes of the appearance of green soil in greenhouses. Therefore, at the first discovery of the greenness of the earth, you should try to determine as accurately as possible why the earth in the greenhouse is turning green. There are enough methods to combat this disease. Greens are especially dangerous for tomatoes that are often grown in a greenhouse.

The true reasons for greening of the soil in a greenhouse

Diagram of the neighborhood of vegetables in a greenhouse.

Now it’s time to understand more precisely and answer the question why the soil in the greenhouse turns green. As has already become clear, green soil in a greenhouse appears from the abundance of mosses or algae in it. Where did they come from? It's simple: these plants love warmth and plenty of moisture - a known fact from school. If you give all this to them, then they will happily conquer any open space, including tomatoes in a greenhouse. And their spores are found almost everywhere; they can also float in water that is used for irrigation, especially if it is a container of standing water. When favorable conditions are reached in the greenhouse, their germination causes the earth to turn green.

It is possible to increase humidity to such a critical level by disrupting the watering regimes of tomatoes in the greenhouse. By watering tomatoes in large quantities daily, a gardener can cause the crop to die. Another reason for waterlogging of the soil in a greenhouse can be rare, insufficient ventilation for the given size of the greenhouse or its absence. Excessive fertilization of soil for greenhouses can also have a negative impact - this can completely disrupt the favorable composition of the soil for the growth of tomatoes and shift the acid-base balance. And the last reason that can cause greening of the soil in a greenhouse is a sharp shift in the acid-base reaction of the soil to the acidic side.

Based on some signs, you can immediately determine why the soil in the greenhouse has turned green. For example, it is known that the most favorable environment for mosses, in addition to high soil moisture, is acidified soil and open access to moderate sunlight.

In turn, mosses and algae are inhibited by artificial lighting from lamps, sometimes used to heat and illuminate tomatoes.

Priority measures to combat greenery on the soil

Scheme for using a plastic bottle for drip irrigation.

When overcoming greening of the ground in a greenhouse, you need to proceed from the identified reasons for the appearance of abnormal color. The very first measure is to limit the access of water to the greenhouse, that is, you need to significantly reduce the dose of water when watering, and do not water at first. Then it will be useful to ventilate the greenhouse, but do not allow the temperature to change too sharply.

Next, you should determine what specific vegetation led to the coloring of the soil in the greenhouse green, algae or mosses. And then begin to target a specific type of flora, because although it does not cause much harm to tomatoes, it is unnecessary. To combat mosses, it is enough to open the covering material of the greenhouse, thereby providing direct access to bright sunlight, which will quickly burn them out. It is also important to remember about sun dosing for tomatoes. When algae grow on soil, on the contrary, the access to light must be limited, completely blocking it. To do this, it is most convenient to use a thin sand mound on top of the soil. This will not disrupt gas exchange for tomato roots and will get rid of the annoying problem.

Before any of these procedures, you need to get rid of the thin top soil layer, which is excessively covered with a green coating, in order to reduce the time required to combat mosses and algae.

Diagram is an example of greenhouse frame dimensions.

It is important to know that some amateur summer residents use copper sulfate to quickly and effectively combat unwanted green flora. It is strictly unacceptable to pour copper sulfate granules into the greenhouse or water the soil with it, since it can seriously harm the healthy soil composition.

The above measures may turn out to be practically useless if green soil is widespread and this situation is neglected. In this case, they resort to more radical ways to solve the problem.

Necessary tools to completely prevent soil greening in a greenhouse

To cope with green soil in a greenhouse or greenhouse without the use of chemical additives, you should stock up on some tools and equipment in advance. So, depending on the chosen method of control, you need to bring to the greenhouse:

shovel;
hoe;
pitchfork;
sickle;
quicklime.

Thorough ways to combat greening of the soil in a greenhouse

Greenhouse heat supply diagram: 1 – greenhouse circuit; 2 – heating circuits of various zones of the greenhouse; 3 – gas boiler; 4 – economizer; 5 – boiler circuit pump; 6 – heating circuit pumps; 7 – control valves; 8 – hydraulic arrow; 9 – chimney; 10 – air-to-water heat pump.

The main methods of combating green soil in greenhouses can be to take measures to level the acid-base balance by reducing acidity, completely changing the top soil layer, using crop rotation or mulching the soil.

As for the method of optimizing soil acidity, you should first determine exactly what kind of acidity a given soil has in a particular greenhouse. This can be done using a special device using chemical analysis: buy analyzing strips at a pharmacy and prepare an aqueous solution yourself or seek help from a laboratory. There are also some ancient methods for determining soil acidity using simple chemical techniques. The simplest method is to prepare an infusion of five currant leaves, into which a little of the soil being tested is dipped. A blue tint indicates a neutral environment, green indicates a slightly acidic environment, and red indicates an acidic environment. After determining the acidic environment, measures are taken to level it by alkalizing the soil. To do this, sprinkle the greenhouses, namely the soil in them, with chalk chips or quicklime. You can also use pure wood ash, but this method is only suitable for slightly acidified soils, and besides, it is unsafe for the ground for a greenhouse.

Diagram of a greenhouse with solar heat accumulation in the soil: 1 – pits; 2 – soil pipes; 3 – connecting channel; 4 – fan.

If the greenhouse is not the only one on the site and the soil in it is very neglected, then you can resort to completely replacing the fertile soil layer. To do this, you need to remove about 30 cm of soil with a shovel and sprinkle the resulting area with quicklime. The next day you can extinguish it and thoroughly clean all the sides and bottom of the greenhouse. Leave to dry for several days. Now that the greenhouse is ready, the new soil should be of high quality. It should be evenly distributed over the area, filling it with air and loosening it. After this procedure, any past fertility problems can be definitely ruled out.

When long-term planning for high soil fertility, it is convenient to use a crop rotation schedule in several greenhouses or greenhouses. The basic principle of crop rotation is the annual change of the cultivated crop on each plot. This allows the soil to be enriched with the fullest range of minerals that plants may need. Initially, all cultivated crops are classified into three groups depending on the amount of fertilizer. Plant the plants that need the most fertilizer in the first greenhouse, less in the second, and least fertilized ones in the third. Leave the fourth greenhouse empty and fertilize it most heavily during this period. Change the sowing sites in the same order every year. The use of crop rotation will significantly reduce fertilizer costs and significantly increase crop yields.

Scheme of a greenhouse frame made from a profile pipe.

The simplest and most effective method of combating greenery that appears on the soil in greenhouses has long been considered mulching using green manure plants. Mulching involves covering the soil layer of a greenhouse or greenhouse with freshly cut herbs directly under the tomatoes. To do this, you can cut any tall weed with a sickle. The main thing is that there are no roots from it. Experienced gardeners use green manure crops. This can be any cereal crop, for example wheat. They can be mowed and sown in one place several times a season. The cut grass is placed on the soil of the greenhouse, punctures are made with a pitchfork or the soil is loosened with a hoe. At the same time, the moisture remains in the ground for a long time, which allows you to water the tomatoes several times a month as needed. The earth does not dry out, and rotting plants maintain the optimal temperature of the root system at any time of the day and at the same time fertilize the earth during decomposition.

VseoTeplicah.ru

Moss in the garden plot, how to defeat it?

Moss on the garden plot Most attempts to get rid of moss on the plot end in nothing for gardeners.
Don’t give up - after all, we are basically trying to get rid of the external manifestations of the problem. However, in order to definitely get rid of moss, it is necessary to find and eliminate the cause of its appearance. Moss primarily grows in the fall and spring on dense, poorly drained soil. This happens because moss loves moisture very much. And in areas of soil where water stagnates, it grows constantly. Moss also becomes a frequent companion on sandy soils, which drain water well. The second reason for the invasion of soil by moss is the lack of nutrients, its severe acidification and shading. If the area is heavily infested with mosses, it is imperative to fight them! If you correctly identify the cause and eliminate it in time, there is a problem

There are special chemicals that will help you in the difficult fight against moss:

Treat in autumn and spring with a special product. You can burn off the moss with a general herbicide. A good way is to water the moss area with a dichlorophen solution. The dead moss can be raked after a few weeks and these areas can be replanted with grass.
If possible, reduce the shading of the area with moss.
An effective way to combat moss is to increase fertility by adding sand to the soil in the autumn. Use fertilizers twice a year; you can also deoxidize the soil with dolomite flour

If there is not so much moss, then you can make beautiful lawns from areas of its constant growth, if it does not bother you. Such lawns are now very popular among landscape design lovers.

DachaDecor.ru

How to optimize crop rotation?

To reduce the addition of large amounts of fertilizer, it will be necessary to carry out optimization measures for crop rotation. To begin with, you should divide vegetable crops into types, depending on the requirements for their fertilization: crops that require thorough fertilization, in average quantities, and vegetables that do not require fertilizer.

Optimization measures for crop rotation include the following actions: applying a large proportion of fertilizer, adding fertilizing for 3 years, changing crops once a year. To ensure that the fertilizers remaining in the soil are consumed, it is recommended to plant crops in the off-season.

The question of why the soil turns green in a greenhouse may be asked not only by a beginner, but also by an experienced gardener. The greenery that appears is nothing more than algae and mosses, which began to actively reproduce when conditions favorable to them were formed. What are these conditions, how to deal with uninvited “guests” and is it possible to prevent their appearance - the answers to these questions should enrich your knowledge for the successful cultivation of garden crops.

Why does the soil in a greenhouse turn green and how to deal with it: the best methods

Reason #1. Violation of cultivation technology

The fact is that in loose, structural soil, air exchange occurs correctly, and the roots receive the right amount of oxygen. If we stop digging the soil and loosening the beds, but at the same time we do not mulch, as nature requires, then things are bad.

Why don't we dig it up? In fact, this has its own rational grain: this way the structure of the soil is not disturbed, its two completely different layers - upper and lower - do not mix, and the farming process itself turns out to be as natural as possible. But look at the soil in the forest - where can you find bare areas? Nowhere: leaves, branches, grass, anthills - anything but bare earth under the scorching sun, and even flooded with water from above. This is no longer natural, and leads to an imbalance in the ecosystem, especially one as closed as a greenhouse. As a result, isolated spores of initially harmless mosses and algae, sensing themselves in “their” environment, begin to multiply rapidly. Not only to reproduce - to desperately seize new territory!

And all because constant watering, liquid fertilizing and compacting the soil underfoot or with tools leads to the soil becoming compacted and the air being squeezed out of it. So the soil ceases to be structural, and water seeps into it slowly, remaining more and more idle on the surface. In simple terms, it floats. In a greenhouse microclimate, these are ideal conditions for the development of moss and algae.

There is a solution: either dig up the soil every season, or constantly add loosening materials such as straw or sawdust to it. And algae and moss especially don’t like ash, so don’t spare it when digging.

Reason #2. Excess phosphate fertilizers

Have you fertilized your beds with Baikal? Not all plants in a greenhouse need large amounts of phosphorus. But you can overdo it with it! You used some kind of “universal” fertilizer once, then again, and your vegetables take only what they need from the soil. As a result, many useful microelements simply accumulate, which is even worse than their deficiency. Just like for the human body, hypervitaminosis is more dangerous than hypovitaminosis.

But a large amount of phosphorus fertilizers in the soil is the main reason that the soil in the greenhouse “turns green”, i.e. covered with moss or algae. Therefore, the point is not so much in “Baikal”, but in the irrational use of so-called universal fertilizers, which “have everything.” The solution is simple: use proper crop rotation, or fertilize the plants in the greenhouse only with what they specifically need.

To avoid oversaturating the soil with fertilizers every year, adhere to the following crop rotation:

In the first year, plant crops that require a lot of fertilizer. For example, eggplants.
In the second year - those that grow on lightly fertilized soil. For example, cucumbers.
In the third year, plant something that feels quite good with minimal nutrition. For example, tomatoes.

Such crop rotation will help avoid the accumulation of unused minerals in the beds and depletion of other elements.

Green onions, lettuce and radishes will also help remove excess fertilizer. Just sow them after you have harvested the main crop.

Reason No. 3. The pH level has changed

This often happens if the soil in the greenhouse has not been changed for a long time. Therefore, first try simply updating the beds, and treating the place itself with quicklime before adding new black soil. Here's how to do it: extinguish it, and then whitewash it where the old soil was. Let it dry well and add new black soil.

So what does pH show? This is a ratio of how much alkaline minerals and acidic salts are in the soil. Over time, the pH level in greenhouse soil constantly changes, and sometimes the plants themselves change it, releasing certain substances into the soil. In addition, watering also has an effect, where hard water reduces acidity, and soft water increases it; and fertilizers, where calcium nitrate increases the pH, and ammonium sulfate, urea and potassium chloride lower the pH.

To study soil acidity, there is a special device - an acid meter. You can also use ready-made indicators. But even by eye you can determine whether there are problems in your greenhouse with pH:

Step 1: Take a handful of soil and place it on a plastic plate or bag.
Step 2. Add a few drops of table vinegar.
Step 3. If the earth seems to “boil” in places and small bubbles appear, then the soil is not acidic, but neutral, with a normal amount of lime.
Step 4. If there is no reaction at all, the soil is acidic.

Here's another method:

Step 1. Take a glass of grape juice and throw a lump of soil from the greenhouse into it.
Step 2. Watch the reaction: if the juice changes color and bubbles float to the surface -
the soil is neutral.
Step 3. No reaction? So it's sour.

And finally, there is another fairly accurate folk method:

Step 1. Prepare a solution from cherry or currant leaves. Let it cool well.
Step 2. Throw a pinch of soil from the greenhouse into it.
Step 3. If the solution turns red, the earth is acidic.
Step 4. If the solution turns green, it is neutral.
Step 5. If the solution turns blue, the earth is moderately acidic, which is also not bad.

On acidic soil, sphagnum moss actively grows, which releases hydrogen ions, and with their help further maintains the acidity of the soil high. As a result, bacteria develop much less, moisture is retained in the soil, and oxygen is actively delivered to the roots of plants. But, you see, it’s better not to grow moss in garden beds, but simply use it as a wonderful antibacterial mulch.

If the problem is the acidity of the soil, use any alkali: lime, gypsum, dolomite flour, calcium carbide. Calcium carbide, by the way, when reacting with water releases a valuable substance - acetylene. Evaporating slowly enough, it helps the tomatoes ripen, which is also good.

Green soil can appear in a greenhouse for several reasons:

Increased soil acidity.
Waterlogging of the soil.
Excess fertilizer.

Mosses and algae are plants that love a moist environment. Both too much watering and nearby groundwater under the beds can lead to their proliferation. So, if there is not enough light in the greenhouse, then moss will begin to grow with high humidity. And if it’s light, then there’s algae.

Therefore, here is what you need to do first if the soil in your greenhouse suddenly turns green:

Step 1. Completely stop watering the plants.
Step 2. Let's take a closer look at what exactly grew in the beds and gives the green color.
Step 3. If it turns out that it is moss, we direct additional lighting or sunlight onto it using a large mirror, and open the windows.
Step 4. If the culprits of the green color of the beds are algae, protect such beds from the sun as much as possible, and cover them with a layer of sawdust or sand on top. We ventilate the greenhouse well.

These are the first steps. What else needs to be done - read on.

Prevention of soil greening

It's no secret that preventing unwanted consequences is easier than actively combating them after they occur. This is also true for green soil in a greenhouse. The best prevention in this case is mulching and crop rotation.

The benefits and technology of soil mulching

Mulching is covering the soil with organic and synthetic materials that allow:

prevent weed germination;
avoid drying out the soil by maintaining moisture in it for a long time;
provide proper temperature conditions for the root system.

Synthetic materials include industrially produced non-woven fabrics and films. Organic mulch can be: grass clippings, hay, tree bark, sawdust, straw, pine needles. However, the latter cannot be used on acidic soils, as it will further aggravate their condition.

Mulching with film

Note! Organic materials for covering are preferable, since during the process of decay they additionally fertilize the soil.

The mulching technology is simple: the soil is first watered, then loosened with hoes and pierced with a fork to ensure air circulation, then mulch is laid. And there are several nuances here:

Mulching is recommended to be done in late spring or early summer, when the soil has already warmed up.
When laying mulch, it is necessary to leave space between it and the plant trunk for the same air circulation.
When using cut grass as a cover, you must first dry it for several days to avoid parasites from spreading to garden crops.

Loosening the soil before mulching

Mulching is an effective method of preventing the appearance of moss and algae. Its use allows you not to think about why the earth turns green in the greenhouse.

Is the greenhouse soil covered with moss?

So, you have determined that the soil in the greenhouse has turned green due to moss. Let's say that moss is a fairly peaceful plant, and it is often specially grown. But moss is included in the classification of weeds for a reason - it will still have a negative impact on the harvest. If there is not much moss yet, just scrape it off and throw away the removed layers.

Reason #1. Ideal conditions created

Let's first check if the conditions for the appearance of moss are created in your greenhouse:

Step 1. Take some earth in your hand and look at it. If it crumbles reluctantly, it means it is still waterlogged. In this case, simply add sand to the soil and aerate it, and where there is the most moss, make additional depressions and fill them with river sand.
Step 2: Now test the soil for pH value. If it is acidified, then moss will grow on it with a brown bottom and a green top. Is this the case? Restore the acid balance with dolomite flour, and apply fertilizer in the spring, because... Moss grows precisely on acidified and poor soil.
Step 3. Check to see if moss has appeared in places where you always have shade in your greenhouse? Perhaps something is shading it - a support or a tree nearby? Then place reflective foil nearby, which will illuminate this area - just as they do in a thermos greenhouse. A simple and effective solution.

Reason #2. The soil is too acidic

If you determine that it is moss, then the soil is still acidic. And if you don’t touch the moss for several days (for example, you go to the dacha only on weekends), then it will spread as quickly as possible. Plants will begin to lag behind in growth, because the moss will take over all the valuable substances that it finds in the soil. Therefore, act immediately, especially since this is a solvable problem. Just follow these instructions:

Step 1. First, add the ash, scattered, and do not dig it up.
Step 2. Right now, sow annual green manures - mustard, rapeseed or oilseed radish. Within a month, the soil will be covered with a continuous carpet of greenery.
Step 3. Plant your seedlings directly onto this carpet.
Step 4. As soon as it takes root, mow the green manure and leave it directly on the beds as mulch.
Step 5. After harvesting, sow green manure again, already winter, and let it remain there, even under the snow.

But let’s first figure out how often you need to apply lime fertilizers to greenhouse soil:

In normal, rich soil - once every 4-5 years.
In light soil - every 3-4 years.
In severe cases - after 5-6 years.

When applying, keep in mind that the finer the limestone you grind, the stronger its effect will be.

In one year, your greenhouse soil will be completely healed. But remember that moss often grows where the soil layer is too dense and there is a lack of nutrients. What to do? Soil aeration. Try to make holes about 10 cm deep, every 10-15 cm.

Reason #3. Moss “crept” from the frame

And finally, moss is a rather picky plant, and therefore it feels great on both stones and trees. Therefore, if its elements have already appeared in your greenhouse, carefully examine the wooden structures - are they the first to turn green? Moss can be removed using iron sulfate if it is a tree, and with a soda solution if it is a stone. Get rid of this cause of greening of the ground immediately, before the plant begins to spread in the ground.

The rapid growth of mosses is also provoked by phosphorus fertilizers, which are sometimes applied too much. And sometimes moss appears on beds that were previously treated with a herbicide such as Roundup. In this case, no additional treatment is needed - just dig up the ground and the problem will be solved.

Amazing discovery: are your beds “swimmed” with algae?

Sometimes the groundwater rises on its own during the rainy season, but in the greenhouse we continue to water everything according to schedule. Result: the greenhouse has turned into a real aquarium, where algae just belong!

A good solution is to mulch all the beds in the greenhouse, and now you won’t need to water as much. Be sure to also pay attention to ventilation. Plants, like people, need fresh air. Even if you flood the open-air beds in the same way, they will not turn green, because... the moisture from them will evaporate quickly enough.

Mulch greenhouse beds correctly:

Step 1. Water the soil well.
Step 2. After watering, loosen the soil around the plants and in the beds themselves.
Step 3: Lay down the mulch in an even layer.
Step 4. Be sure to leave space between the plant stems for normal air circulation.

But there are situations when conventional methods are not suitable, and algae actively continues to grow. You will have to fight them with chemicals, except copper sulfate, which will kill all living things along with the algae. But in subsequent seasons you will have to adhere to these rules:

Constantly check the soil for acidity.
Mulch all beds.
After each harvest, completely replace the top layer.
It is good to think through crop rotation so that the greenhouse soil has time to recover.

And if there are often puddles in the greenhouse due to high groundwater, proceed to growing in special ridge boxes:

Technology for replacing soil in the affected area

Removing the top layer of soil is a necessary measure, used when everything else fails. Carrying out work requires not only time, but also money.

Phased soil replacement

Operating procedure:

Removing the top layer of soil to a depth of 30-40 cm.
Treatment of this area with quicklime.
Lime slaking with water.
Thorough whitewashing of the soil.
Leave the area until completely dry (2-3 days).
Delivery of fresh soil.

Remove the top layer of soil with a regular shovel

It is important! Replacement of the top layer of soil is carried out during the absence of garden crops in the greenhouse - in early spring or mid-autumn.

It's time to sound the alarm: Marchantia moss

Marchantia is a liver moss. In appearance, this scourge resembles some kind of lichen. If you pick it up, thin roots will follow it, like a sticky web, and even the smallest piece of it left in the soil will completely resume its lush growth.

In general, the natural habitat of marchantia is acidic, moist soils on the banks of the river and in the shade of dense forests. But, unfortunately, many seeds and bulbs, especially Polish and Dutch, are infected with the spores of this scourge. And once in sufficiently acidic and moist greenhouse soil, marchantia quickly forms a dense “rubber” coating, almost completely blocking oxygen to the soil and roots of cultivated plants. At the same time, by summer it builds up its reproductive organs, from which millions of new spores fly around.

What’s interesting is that even copper sulfate does not attack Marchantia, not to mention ordinary pesticides, which you also don’t want to see in a greenhouse. Therefore, unfortunately, the only effective way to combat marchantia so far can only be called physical labor - manually picking out this moss from greenhouse beds and immediately mulching with peat. Another option is to simply dig with a shovel so that the moss is under the top layer of soil. And finally, a thick black film will help you.

Act quickly, get rid of moss and algae immediately and radically, and in the future completely review your greenhouse cultivation techniques.

Vasha-Teplitsa.ru

Why is this happening?

In most cases, the soil in the greenhouse turns green when plants such as moss and algae appear.

Most often, the soil turns green due to excessive moisture in the mail. This can be affected by excessive watering of plants, as well as the flow of water into the greenhouse due to natural phenomena such as precipitation or melting snow. ? The most important thing is to place the greenhouse in the right place (exclude lowlands and places with close groundwater);
Another reason why the earth turns green may be an increased level of soil acidity. Plants such as moss like to live in acidic and acidified soil, which is deprived of the nutrients necessary for the development of planted crops;
Another reason why the soil in a greenhouse turns green is the excessive addition of productivity-enhancing fertilizers to the soil. The most common are fertilizers with the addition of phosphorus, which have a beneficial effect on the growth of vegetable crops such as tomatoes. But their excessive addition to the soil stimulates the colonization of the greenhouse with moss. ;
Lack or insufficient air ventilation – . Lack of oxygen provokes the appearance of plants such as moss.

Why did moss appear on the path in an unheated greenhouse and how to get rid of it?

Tatiana Surovaya

.From high humidity and acidification. You can get rid of moss if you treat the space of the path with a solution of iron sulfate (40-80 g per 1 m2). If the path runs in shady places or the soil has high humidity, then the amount of solution can be increased further. This procedure is carried out immediately after the snow melts, even before the first greenery appears. As a rule, moss turns black and dies a week after treating the soil with the solution. Collect the remaining moss with a rake and burn it. Stores also sell special products.

Elena Orlova

the soil is acidic and wet all the time you were told everything correctly

Tanya Andreeva

a common occurrence, if you don’t want to use chemistry like Roundup, then you just need to scrape off the moss with a shoe like this moss with a shoe like this

How to mulch the soil

. This method will protect the soil from excess moisture by ensuring rapid drying. The mulching procedure can be carried out using sawdust, straw, hay, compost, dry grass or dried tree bark. If there is an acidic environment, you should not mulch with pine needles, which can further increase the acidity.

How to do mulching correctly? .

The application of the protective layer should occur on top of well-watered soil;
Before the mulching procedure, loosening the soil is required;
It is necessary to leave a small space around the stem of the crop to ensure air circulation.