What is ACH for the garden. AKCH: what is it, why use it and how to prepare it

Compost tea is a fairly new natural remedy, even for organic farmers, for improving soil fertility, increasing crop yields, and improving their taste and appearance. In the West, the technology of making compost tea has been known for a long time, but here it is just beginning to gain popularity.

What is compost tea? What does it give to the soil and the plants growing on it? How to make this tea at home and how to use it in the garden? Today we invite you to “plunge headlong” into the topic of compost tea.

What is ACH for the garden. AKCH: what is it, why use it and how to prepare it

Why do plants grow poorly and get sick in the beds of novice gardeners and vegetable gardeners? The usual answer is that the soil has few nutrients. They give similar advice that wanders from article to article: how much, what kind and when to apply organic and mineral fertilizers. The gardener applies fertilizers, the yields increase at first, but the number of diseases also increases. Then the yields fall, the soil fertility does not increase.

This is not the case in my garden. Soil fertility increases from year to year, diseases decrease, and harvests are pleasing. The neighbors look and ask: “You add a lot of organic matter, just like us, and you’re not afraid of mineral water. What's the secret?" And I don’t hide the secret, I talk about it in my books.

Why do you need compost tea?

For many gardeners, soil is a production plant. For me, it is a living organism, where roots exist in collaboration with microorganisms that feed and protect them.

Summer residents introduce organic matter incorrectly, increasing putrefactive processes and reducing soil biodiversity. Due to the illiterate use of mineral fertilizers and digging up the soil, fungi and protozoan organisms that are important for the environment are destroyed.
I apply all this using knowledge of soil ecology to not only nourish the roots, but also feed the soil microorganisms. Not to reduce, but to increase their biodiversity.

In nature, the most beneficial microorganisms, in huge numbers and diversity, live in old garbage heaps or compost heaps, where organic matter has been added for many years and no chemicals have been added. If such compost is applied to the beds, the soil quickly recovers and becomes fertile. But gardeners always lack compost.

Aerated compost tea (ACT) helps multiply microorganisms from regular compost several million times.

How to make compost tea

Place a glass of compost (100 g) in a 3-liter jar.
Pour 2 liters of water without bleach.
Use an aquarium compressor to circulate air for 24 hours at a temperature of 20 -25 °C. The more powerful the compressor, the better for microbes and fungi.
So that microorganisms have something to eat, you need to add 10-15 g of molasses (you can put the same amount of molasses, malt, or apple or plum jam)
Bacteria divide every 20 minutes, and their numbers increase very quickly.

⇒ It is important not to make mistakes!

If you put more than 100 g of compost per 2 liters of water or more than 15 g of molasses, after 6 hours there will be no more oxygen and the compost tea will rot.
You can’t get good ACN from bad compost - beneficial organisms will have nowhere to come from.

How to use compost tea

It is advisable to store AKCh before watering for no more than 4 hours. After all, if there is no oxygen, all living organisms will die.
To save ACC, dilute it 3-5 times before use.
You can water the soil with ready-made ACH at least every week. Or at least 4-5 times per season - there will be no harm.
It is very good to alternate watering the soil with spraying on the leaf.
It is necessary to spray the soil and leaves either early in the morning after dew or late in the evening. Otherwise, the sun will dry out and kill your bacteria friends.

Within a day you will see that the plants come to life, turn green, and grow. These beneficial microorganisms decompose organic matter and bring previously inaccessible mineral salts from the soil to the roots. Beneficial mushrooms and amoebas, eating harmful bacteria and fungi, provide the roots with vitamins and growth stimulants.

Use ACH year after year, and your soil will become living, porous, and healing for plants. The fruits will not contain harmful chemicals and will keep you healthy.

Let's start with the theory...

First, be patient - we will understand the basics of soil microbiology, which was not taught in school before. Let's start delving into practical examples.

How EM drugs work

Many have tried to use microbial preparations Baikal EM 1 and Siyanie. And I have experience in using them - in the spring I prepare preparations, spray the soil (more precisely, mainly the organic matter with which it is mulched). For what? I understand that the natives of my soil are still sleeping. They will start working by the end of May. And microorganisms, multiplied and activated during the preparation of EM preparations, will begin to work within 3-5 days - they will begin to decompose organic matter and provide nutrition to plants. There will be a new impetus for organic processing activity. The introduced EOs themselves will quickly become food for predatory natives, and a wave of food chains will sweep through the site, producing food for the roots of my plants. And I will immediately see how the plants come to life and begin to grow. Delicious cucumbers ripen in June if you water them with ACH:

Many gardeners see this revival and growth impulse, and therefore buy EM preparations. But that impulse does not last long. In order for plants to constantly grow well, they need to be given new portions of organic matter or often stimulated with Baikal EM. This is how EM drugs fundamentally differ from ACh.

How do herbal infusions work?

Another example. Many people used herbal infusions. Recently, there have been recommendations to aerate them to avoid a putrid odor. I did it too. But with an understanding of biological processes in the soil. Weeds contain food that is easily accessible to soil fungi and microbes - carbohydrates and proteins. We simply make a carbohydrate-protein extract from weeds. The same thing will happen if you infuse a crust of bread or dilute old jam: we introduce sugars and microorganisms that begin to rapidly decompose organic matter inaccessible to soil natives and create an impulse in food chains - that is, they stimulate the accelerated decomposition of coarse organic matter into compost accessible to the roots. Roses bloom unusually luxuriantly if they are sprayed with ACH:

What happens in the soil?

One more example. More important. If you constantly add loose organic matter rich in carbon from year to year, then the eaters of this organic matter in the soil change. The native flora changes, more active bacteria appear - but not only: fungi, amoebas, nematodes, algae develop, followed by earthworms and so on... And these chains of microlife become very stable and friendly for cultivated plants. On such soil, your plants not only consume ready-made nutrients, but form a rhizosphere with new symbiont microorganisms; friendly bacteria surround the roots in a tight ring and prevent harmful microbes from reaching them. That is, I brought you to the idea: the goal is not to introduce preparations with microorganisms into the soil; Our task is to create conditions for plants to form friendly flora themselves. Indoor flowers also love AKCH fertilizing:

Solution to the problem - ACC

So now I don’t buy commercial products, but just take some soil (organic matter) from the “garbage heap” - a pile of old compost overgrown with weeds. Only old, mature compost contains symbiont fungi and bacteria, amoebas, nematodes, and algae of the required quality and biodiversity. I place this compost in water with malt and let air through. All the useful local - homegrown, native to my beds - flora multiplies millions of times. And immediately, before it dies, I water my beds with it. This kind of biota will definitely take root, displace all soil pathogenic fungi and bacteria and enrich the rhizosphere of cultivated plants. This is how ACH turns out. I aerate the Compost - I get an infusion similar in color to Tea

Compost tea for marijuana. What do you need to make your own compost tea?

To make the simplest aerated compost tea, you will need an aerator, water, compost, and a microbial nutrient supplement.

An aerator consists of an air pump, a tube and a nozzle for the formation of small bubbles.

The water should be left in an open container for several hours (preferably a day) so that all the chlorine evaporates. Chlorine is added to water precisely to kill microorganisms. It is clear that in our case it is completely unnecessary. By the way, ready-made compost tea can only be diluted with settled water. For the same reason.

Compost is what determines the quality of the “tea”. The more types of aerobic organisms it contains, the richer the compost tea will be. It is clear that in real conditions, few people have the opportunity to test compost in the laboratory (to know for sure what bacteria and fungi it contains). So take what you have and hope for the best. Also, don’t forget about vermicompost, that is, compost processed by earthworms. The waste products of earthworms contain a huge number of microorganisms that are beneficial for hemp.

To feed the microbes, you can add regular sugar or fermented jam to the solution, however, if you have the opportunity, use molasses (molasses), brown algae (kelp), fish by-products or humic acids. Additionally, many cannabis growers are familiar with commercial supplements that provide sugar for the buds during the final weeks of flowering. These preparations are also suitable for feeding bacteria in compost tea.

Under conditions of constant aeration of the solution (saturation with air), bacteria actively multiply and reach a peak in numbers and diversity after 24-48 hours. It is recommended to use ready-made compost tea within 4-6 hours after preparation - before microbes begin to compete with each other for oxygen and nutrients. You can also extend the shelf life - to do this, you need to keep the jar of compost tea open and periodically stir vigorously.

Application for tomatoes

Options for using aerated compost tea for tomatoes:

Disinfection and stimulation of seeds before sowing. To do this, tomato seeds in a bag are dipped in a bubbling tea solution for 10-12 hours.
Watering the soil before planting seeds, seedlings (one watering is enough), as well as tomatoes after diving and planting in greenhouses or ridges. The composition is first diluted with clean (without bleach) water 1:5. For irrigation, ACH is not filtered.
Spraying tomatoes (at any stage). The composition is diluted with water 1:10, filtered, and poured into a spray bottle. To improve adhesion, add 1 ml of any vegetable oil. Spray the tomatoes on the leaves. If it rains after treatment, the treatment procedure is repeated for tomatoes in the garden.
Tilling the soil in spring when preparing beds for tomatoes. Per hundred square meters - two liters of solution.

How to use ACC. How to prepare AKCH

To prepare you will need 4 components:

1. Compost;

2. Molasses or molasses;

3. Water.

4 . A set of equipment for AFC (Compressor, tubes and nozzles, everything can be bought at an aquarium store)

Let's start with compost. It must be taken from old compost heaps, which may even be overgrown with weeds, because... all the wealth of microorganisms predominates there. The kind of compost we take as a basis will determine the kind of ACH we will get.

Syrup. It is necessary to feed bacteria.

Water. It should preferably be from a spring, river or well.

To enrich the solution with oxygen, you will need a set of equipment for ACH.

2 liters of AKCH solution is enough to treat 1 hectare of land or 5 hectares of leaf spraying, when diluted 1/5 with water.

To prepare 2 liters of AKCH we need to take 1 glass of compost, 20 ml. molasses or 1 tablespoon and 2 liters of water.

You can prepare it in a three-liter jar, into which we pour water, add molasses, lower the compressor sprayer, turn it on and after a minute pour out the compost.

The tea is prepared from 24 hours to 2 days, depending on where it will be used.

The finished AKCH should have a neutral smell or the smell of spring earth.

After preparation, it must be strained and used within 4 hours.

This season I am going to start using it by treating seeds and feeding seedlings until the end of the season in the beds and in the greenhouse, which I will write about in future articles.

What else can you use ACH for?

Once again, I use ACC in the following ways:

I saturate the seeds with beneficial microflora and disinfect them from harmful ones; I place the seeds of tomatoes, peppers, watermelons and other crops in a gauze bag and immerse them in bubbling tea for 12-24 hours. I don’t know of a more effective stimulation and disinfection. I take it out with sprouts that have sprouted;
I water the soil with tea after planting the seeds and water the seedlings after transplanting - germination and survival rate are excellent;
If I can carry out the first spring spraying of the soil with EM preparations (this is the start for the beginning of food chains), then subsequent ones are better to carry out ACH; You can do it once every 2 weeks, you can do it 2 times a season - each gardener has his own crops, his own soil, his own capabilities.

ACC consists of dozens of microorganism complexes. They resist the natives of your poor diseased soils longer, but do not think that the introduced microbes will act forever. The pendulum of food chains will swing in different directions and establish a new equilibrium. This depends on the degree of soil exploitation and the degree of introduction of carbonaceous organic matter. In any case, ACH improves the biological component of the soil and the environment, and this is the basis of soil fertility. And then the cultivated plants will choose which introduced microorganisms they will enter into a partnership with. And your soil will become as fertile as the soil of the Voronezh protected chernozems or the soil of Sakhalin.

Author: Gennady Raspopov. Source: https://7dach.ru/Raspopov_Gennadiy/aerirovannyy-kompostnyy-chay-akch-chto-eto-27011.html

ACC for marijuana. What do you need to make your own compost tea?

To make the simplest aerated compost tea, you will need an aerator, water, compost, and a microbial nutrient supplement.

An aerator consists of an air pump, a tube and a nozzle for the formation of small bubbles.

Advantages and disadvantages of tea

When using aerated compost tea, the ripening time of fruits is accelerated, more tomatoes are harvested, and their taste improves. ACC also contributes to:

activation of beneficial microorganisms in the soil;
improving soil structure;
the diversity of groups of bacteria and fungi that form the soil rhizosphere;
soil improvement;
cleansing the soil of dangerous toxins that have formed and accumulated over the past years;
improving the condition of plants, strengthening tomatoes;
protecting tomatoes from harmful infections, increasing immunity.

Biomass useful for plants is actively formed in the soil, humins accumulate, increasing the fertility of the soil. The use of aerated tea on depleted and depleted soils is especially important. The correct use of organic fertilizer helps to increase and improve the biological components of the soil, obtaining abundant harvests and environmentally friendly tomatoes.

I'm bubbling in the ACC. AKCH (aerated compost tea) is not as simple as it seems

In the West, organic farming is highly respected, and their most widely used fertilizer is aerated compost tea. Only a few plants are fertilized with it. And it’s completely in vain, since it is absolutely easy to prepare at home. Roughly speaking, aerated compost tea is mature compost infused with water. It can be prepared with air (aerated) or without it – it’s just compost tea. Why do you have to prepare it and not just use ready-made compost? The whole secret is in beneficial bacteria, which accumulate in an aqueous solution and heal the soil, while simultaneously providing nutrition to the plants. That is, compost tea is a fertilizer, a stimulator of growth and fruiting, and a soil restorer. The effect of its use lasts longer than that of mullein or bird droppings. Yes, and it is completely free. Who wants some aerated tea? Water the plants with compost tea from early spring to late autumn. Water the soil and mulch with it, and also spray the plants leaf by leaf. That is, fertilizing should be done at least three to four times per season, but not more than once every two weeks. By populating the soil and plants with beneficial microbes, we leave no room for harmful organisms. Therefore, compost tea is not as simple as it seems. Plants are fed with compost tea at all stages of development. Tops sprayed with it become unattractive to pests, and in this way you can obtain environmentally friendly harvests. Before spraying, it is filtered in 4-layer gauze, then diluted with non-chlorinated water 1 to 10 and a couple of tablespoons of vegetable oil are added for better adhesion to the foliage. For watering at the root, use twice as much water. How to make your own compost tea Compost tea can be prepared in different ways. But we will tell you about its classic recipe, which has long proven itself. You will need: 3 liter glass jar; 2 liters of water (rain, melt, or well will do); 10 ml of any kvass wort or sweetener (for example, molasses, syrup, jam); 1 cup mature compost; any pump or compressor (for example, an aquarium). The recipe is extremely simple: pour water into a jar, add sweetener, stir until it dissolves in water. Then compost is added and a compressor is placed there. It takes 24 hours to pump air into the solution, and if it’s hot, only 15-18 hours. A lot of foam is generated while the compressor is running. This is fine. A properly prepared solution has the smell of earth or fresh bread. Simply prepare compost tea in the same way as mullein, filling a bucket 1/3 full with compost, adding warm water and leaving to ferment for a week, stirring occasionally. Don’t forget to dilute 1x4, 1x8 with water before use... By the way, an aquarium compressor is also useful for preparing seeds for sowing (bubbling), so it makes sense to buy one. Just when you are carried away by the seagull, do not forget that no feeding can replace good care of plants.

How to Make Compost Tea Without a Pump or Compressor

If you don't have a pump, compost infusion can be made without aeration.
It will contain much fewer microorganisms, but, as they say, a little is better than nothing. To prepare compost tea without aeration, you need to fill the bucket 1/3 full with compost, top up the bucket with rain or well water (not tap water), just short of the edges. Stir and leave for 5-7 days. Stir the infusion several times every day, and when it is ready, strain it. If you don't have cheesecloth, burlap or a large sieve, no problem. In this case, do not put the compost directly into the bucket, but into an old stocking or tights, and then put this “bundle” into the bucket.

Another method of making compost tea involves some aeration, but without using a pump. To do this you need two containers of different sizes. Small drainage holes are made at the bottom of the smaller container, it is placed permanently above the larger container and compost tea is poured. Now it will leak through small holes into a large container. Let it drip all day long. Then you need to mix it and repeat the whole procedure all over again.

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Aerated Compost Tea.
My experiences. Part 2 Author Gennady Raspopov https://my.mail.ru/community/agrokontakt/7FD7900BE01166EF.html

After publishing previous articles on this topic, I received many questions. Gardeners are familiar with the experience of using various EM preparations, hay infusion, weed infusion through which air is passed or the weeds are simply fermented in a barrel. Some people use sapropel infusion or vermicompost infusion. Many people describe the wonderful effect of... watering the soil with these infusions, and ask, is it really necessary to use an infusion of compost in the form of AKCH? How is it better than the known and proven methods described above? Therefore, let's talk about preparations containing live bacteria in a little more detail. Let's think about what their advantage is and what the difference is. First, about the hay stick. If you infuse hay in a barrel of water, the hay bacillus will rapidly multiply there within 3-4 days. If you follow the instructions and dissolve one of the preparations with Bacillus subtilis in water, for example phytosporin, then you will also receive a pure and active culture of this Bacillus. Why might you need this? Firstly, if you spray the leaves of garden crops, such as potatoes or tomatoes, with this infusion, then Bacillus hay will act as a competitor, preventing the proliferation of pathogenic fungi, for example, it suppresses late blight. But this method does not provide 100% protection. Most likely, it will delay the onset of the disease by two weeks. A high-quality ACh often operates with greater efficiency. However, there is no point in using them together. You should also not mix ACh and EM. Not because they are incompatible, but because it won't do anything. I'll explain why I think so. The composition of EO includes the three most important components: yeast, lactobacilli (lactic acid bacteria), and photosynthetics. Phytosporin contains only one strain of Bacillus subtilis. In healthy soil, all these microorganisms are present, but in a dormant, suppressed state. When we add fresh organic matter to the beds and then EM preparations or hay bacillus, we pursue the goal of quickly processing this organic matter, suppressing pathogenic fungi, and improving the soil, understanding that having fulfilled this function, our preparations will not work for a long time, but will go into a dormant state. And ACC is the biology and ecosystem of healthy soil in miniature. Spraying or watering the soil with ACH is the transfer of a healthy complex of microorganisms to an unhealthy one. The same thing was done in the old days, scattering small amounts of fertile soil over an unhealthy area. AKCh allows you to do this much better and more efficiently. AKCH is good for everyone, but it is not stored. Aerobes die in 4-6 hours in a solution without aeration. Although for me there are no problems, having good compost and an aquarium compressor, prepare fresh ACH in advance before use. EO preparations and phytosporin are easy to store and easy to prepare by diluting the concentrate before use. I repeat, we must clearly understand that Bacillus subtilis was invented for other purposes. It accelerates the rotting of the straw that remains on the fields after harvesting, thereby increasing the yield for the next year. Therefore, if there is dry grass, straw, sawdust lying superficially on your beds in spring or autumn, then you should spray them with a hay bacilli, it is cheaper and more reliable than using EM preparations or preparing ACH. Bacillus subtilis will quickly begin to destroy coarse cellulose fibers, other microorganisms and fungi will quickly join in, and coarse organic matter will become available through the food chain to plant roots. At the same time, the quantity and quality of useful biota in the soil will increase, but the hay bacilli will be eaten by more active eaters if they do not have time to turn into spores. I can’t resist reminding you about carbon. For a long time, it was written in agronomy textbooks that straw should not be plowed into the soil, or that only a certain part of it should be plowed; we often saw straw being burned. And the argument was this: straw contains a lot of carbon, and if there is a lot of straw, and therefore carbon, then bacteria will begin to quickly consume nitrogen from the soil, and this will lead to a decrease in the amount of nitrogen in the soil and a slowdown in the growth of cultivated plants. This is not entirely correct, of course, if the bacteria assimilate nitrogen, it will still not go anywhere; on the contrary, the carbon of the straw will allow you to quickly accumulate a huge biomass of high-protein (nitrogen-rich) microorganisms. Bacteria hibernate in winter, and in the spring they will be eaten by protozoans and nematodes, which will lead to a balanced release of nitrogen for plants. Smart farmers do not burn the straw or plow it in, but leave it lying on top, treating it with a hay stick. Then even short-term interruptions in nitrogen in the soil do not occur. Now let's talk in more detail about EM drugs. Let's talk about them without the myth-making that the manufacturers of these drugs are guilty of. Everyone fermented cabbage, some saw the silage used to feed cows. What do they have in common? Housewives know that not every cabbage can be used to make a tasty product. In inept hands, cabbage quickly becomes soft or acquires a putrid smell. Cabbage is good when it contains a lot of sugars and there are a lot of wild lactic acid bacteria on the leaves, which quickly begin to multiply in the sweet cabbage juice and suppress all other putrefactive anaerobic bacteria with the lactic acid secreted. The same is true for silage; the best silage is obtained from hogweed, which has a lot of sugar and little protein, but silage is difficult to obtain from nettle. There is a lot of protein, little sugar, and in nettles the processes of protein putrefaction predominate, which will destroy lactobacilli. Why does a gardener need to know this? To put “sweet” juicy herbs in a barrel for fermentation, and herbs, such as nettles, to put in a compost heap as a protein component to obtain high-nitrogen humus. And what should we do with silted grass? And create miracles in your garden beds. Experienced gardeners know that around tomatoes, potatoes, cabbage, cucumbers, during the season it is necessary to lay out fatty juicy sweet leaves of weeds and water them with EO preparations, be sure to lightly mulch with manure or humus, EOs do not like access to air. But it is better to introduce already fermented weeds from a barrel into the beds, where EM preparations were added as a starter. Fermented weeds, laid out on top and mulched with any mulch, will rot with lightning speed. When the most valuable food for soil micro and macro fauna appears, the process of processing this sweet food from the food chain will proceed at a terrible speed. And your plants in the beds will simply explode in growth and produce a record harvest. Succulent weeds contain relatively little nitrogen; the roots of your plants, through chains of soil biota, will consume the energy of carbohydrates from the silage directly, saving on root secretions, and all saved photosynthetic products will be used for fruiting. It is for such purposes that EM drugs should be used. Don’t just apply them to bare soil so that the EOs do “mythical digestion,” but apply EOs when there is organic matter with a high carbohydrate content. Those gardeners who bury such organic matter in the soil without the use of EO preparations contribute to the accumulation of anaerobic putrefactive microorganisms. The products of decay will poison the soil biota and plants for a long time. Let me emphasize once again that Baikal and Siyanie use an anaerobic fermentation method. There is only one point - to quickly decompose organic matter into an acceptable form. The anaerobic method is a faster way to decompose coarse organic matter outside the roots and rhizosphere. It is more convenient to do this either in a barrel, or in a compost heap, or in the spring in beds, when plants and aerobic soil flora are not yet active enough. I found in the literature how EO drugs are counterfeited: Somewhere in Buryatia there is a small butter and cheese factory. There is nowhere to put the serum. So they came up with the idea: they throw yeast in there, and before everything has time to ferment, they bottle it. They printed a brochure spreading scientific fog, and the result was EM. Is it possible to do this yourself? If you make homemade EOs from brewer's yeast, the quality will be very poor, and there will be a lot of fusel oils that are toxic to the soil, like in bad moonshine. This means that you need to add not brewer’s yeast to homemade EOs, but “soil yeast” - archaeobacteria, they are always present in old compost. It’s easy to check, the EM brew based on them does not smell like moonshine, but has a pleasant smell of bread. I will describe an experiment conducted by North Korean microbiologists: three cultures of bacteria (lacto, yeast and photosynthetics) were placed in a 5% molasses solution in a closed vessel, the vessel was placed under infrared radiation of a certain wavelength, and then from time to time measurements were taken of the number of bacteria of all three types . The following picture was observed: At first, almost chaotic fluctuations in the numbers of bacteria of different species occurred, then a dynamic equilibrium occurred, i.e. the curve of changes in the quantities of each species began to repeat periodically over time, and then, on the 36th day, a static equilibrium arose, i.e. the number of bacteria of each species became constant and did not change over time. They tried to “torment” the bacteria - they artificially increased or decreased the acidity - and fluctuations in numbers arose again, and stabilization arose again, but in a slightly different way. However, what is surprising is that the acidity always returned to the level of 6.5 pH. I tried making homemade EM. I have a lot of whey, I have compost, and I also have an infrared photo flashlight. The drug works. But it’s difficult to understand whether my EMs of pure serum are better or worse. . Shablin wrote somewhere that in the domestic EM photosynthetic bacteria are not included, since supposedly they will “join” the remaining two in the soil. Yeast, in fact, is also included in any soil; it is logical to assume that lactic acid bacteria are the main thing that is in EO and what is not in the soil. It turns out that when watering the soil with EO, we use one type of bacteria - lactobacilli.. Compost tea contains 28,000 (or 50,000) species of bacteria, therefore the number of species of bacteria alone in compost tea is 30,000 times greater than in EO. In addition, compost tea contains 45,000 species of mushrooms, which, as is known, are strictly aerobic. What about protozoans, nematodes and other microfauna from old compost? This means that EM cannot be a panacea for the soil; it is good for ensiling weeds. But what about the myth that in EO preparations microorganisms have the “status” of leaders, they are the beginning of a certain food chain, and other organisms feed on the products of their metabolism. As a result, having one such leader, we get a whole chain of various microorganisms. Active is a truly real concept. Bacteria, fungi, etc. rarely live in conditions suitable for themselves. But in order to somehow survive in unfavorable conditions, lack of food, for example, they can go into hibernation, in which many can remain for centuries. In fact (as the results of various tests show) they, as a rule, are in this state. The percentage of active compounds even in the freshest compost tea is 10%, and, for example, in soil where fresh organic matter has not been added for a long time, the active percentage is a fraction of a percent. All the rest are “sleeping” and are of little use. As for the “leaders,” this story was launched to advertise EM. What are the real advantages of EM? 1. Causes anaerobic fermentation without the formation of toxins. 2. There are no pathogens in EO. 3. EO contains both aerobic and anaerobic bacteria. Higa selected aerobic bacteria that release carbohydrates during oxygen starvation. In turn, anaerobic ones eat them and release some oxygen. A metabolic cycle occurs. The symbiosis is stably maintained while carbohydrates are processed. In nature, anaerobic fermentation often occurs with the formation of toxins, and pathogens are present in fresh organic matter. Anyone who has buried manure under potatoes knows how “lousy” they can be. Many people advise spraying plant leaves with EM. If you spray EM in the air, then obviously the anaerobic ones will simply die. Or I'm wrong? In any case, will another micro-postulate of the micro-religion of EM come into argument with me? And the fact that dying essential oils feed the plants is unimportant. It's easier to spray with whey. It's time to talk about vermicompost. Many believe in advertising the miraculous properties of Californian worms. Thousands of representatives of meso-micro and macro fauna live on the forest floor. All of them feed on organic matter and secrete coprolites. Without these living creatures, organic matter will still be processed by bacteria and fungi, but tens of times slower. Imagine how quickly grass is processed in a cow's rumen and, for example, in a silage pit. The speed is not comparable. Likewise, in the intestines of the worm, special microorganisms quickly process organic matter, enrich it with amino acids and vitamins, and convert the main minerals into chelate forms, and microlumps of coprolites make the soil structure porous. But no one has compared which coprolites are better, those produced by small nematodes or large worms. Therefore, it is not always true to say that properly made compost is obviously worse than vermicompost. For example, my compost from rabbit bedding, where there is a lot of feed residue, always attracts a lot of soil animals, it consists of coprolites of micro and mesofauna and works great in a bed of radishes or lettuce, better than store-bought vermicompost made from who knows what. Experiments have been described that if the beds are sprinkled with old spoiled mixed feed, then in terms of the effect on plant growth, this method gives a greater effect than vermicompost added to the soil. This technique is more natural for the roots, because when the biota processes “food” directly in the garden bed, the plant adapts to these processes, and when the gardener gives the roots “food” that is already prepared, processed, it causes stress. Likewise, it is healthier to give your child not a high-calorie bun, but coarse oatmeal without butter. I do not deny the benefits of vermicompost, I remove the aura of a “miracle” from it. Therefore, when you are advised to buy an infusion of vermicompost and water and spray your plants with it, you should know that this is a commercial “scam.” Finally, about sapropel. It is known that many useful microorganisms, especially valuable photosynthetics, are contained in bottom silt, which is called sapropel. If you dilute it with water and water the soil, you always get a good stimulating effect on the growth and development of plants. It’s hard to say which is more stimulating. And microbes are involved in the processing of soil organic matter, finding their food niches, and there are available micro and macroelements in the sludge, and there are many different biostimulants. But if you can get sapropel from a nearby swamp, then use it wisely. Only with the help of sapropel can you make your soil similar in structure to a feather bed. Collect sapropel, lay it out and dry it in the sun, and then mulch your beds with it. Soil life and rain will carry this porous organic matter to the required depth and after a while, if you don’t dig the soil or disturb its natural structure, you will see that the soil under your foot is crushed like a feather bed. And your plants grow giants and begin to bear fruit early. If peat is formed from coarse cellulose of marsh plants, then sapropel is from dying lake micro and macro animals and small protein-rich lake algae. It is otherwise processed by soil biota into humus. And it forms the soil structure differently than peat and manure. The beginning of human use of river and lake silts dates back to ancient times. It was in the valleys of large rivers - the Nile, Tigris and Euphrates, characterized by powerful floods, that the first agricultural civilizations arose. Forty centuries BC there was Egypt. Herodotus wrote that Egypt is “the gift of the Nile.” Because every year the Nile flooded and enriched the land with fertile silt, which was considered the most useful fertilizer. With its use, the population received enviable harvests, even by modern standards. The yield of wheat, taking into account three harvests per year, amounted to “itself” 100, that is, during the year the harvested volume of wheat exceeded the originally sown one hundred times. It is important to know that sapropel has a long-lasting beneficial aftereffect of at least 3-4 years. At application doses of 15-20 kg per square meter, the validity of sapropel can be traced to 14 years. When adding sapropel, not only the mechanical structure of the soil improves, it increases the moisture-absorbing and water-holding capacity by creating microlumps, this activates soil processes and provides a rapid increase in humus in the soil. Due to the slow solubility of the substances active in sapropel, balanced nutrition of plants with all nutrients is ensured. Let's summarize. Any organic matter should be used in a gardener's garden. Any preparations containing live microorganisms and organic infusions should be used in the garden. But understand the processes that occur in the soil and solve your problems in the optimal way. For example, using ACH I solve all my garden problems with greater efficiency. After all, AKCh is a growth stimulator, an anti-freeze agent, a means of combating phytopathogenic diseases, a stimulator of the formation of microbial film on roots, and a supplier of vitamins, auxins, etc. The soil needs actinomycetes, and not fusarium, not bad manure, but mature compost and AKh from it, not only bacteria and mushrooms of saprophytes for “soil digestion”, as in the stomach of a cow, and mesophaun and microfaun in the Commonwealth with 50,000 types of bacteria and mushrooms .. If you still accept the point of view that the main benefit of compost in microorganisms, then the use of AKCh is equivalent to the introduction of 100,000 kg of compost. But the AKh is not a panacea. Those who have long been engaged in aerial compost tea say that component tea does not replace measures to create the fertility of the Earth. In the first place, of course, the fertile land, which is created by organists by introduction of manure, siderates, regular introduction of rough organics, abandoning deep plowing, using mulch from any organic matter, including compost. Nevertheless, the use of AKH is recognized and recommended, as a stimulating and anti -aging agent for plants, which improves their health, appearance, and, ultimately, the crop and taste. Composed tea is already the last stroke and the highest shine for an organist who cares about his soil.