Strawberry propagation using tendrils, seeds and rosettes

Strawberry mustache description

The tendrils are vegetative shoots on which young rosettes develop that can independently take root in the soil. Subsequently, adult plants form from the rosettes. A developed strawberry mustache resembles a garland of 5-7 or more rosette formations.

The younger and stronger the uterine bushes, the more developed whiskers they produce. The largest number of shoots is formed on plants in the first year of cultivation. As the plantation ages, fewer and fewer whiskers appear; they become thin and weak.

The advantages of this breeding method include:

• the ability to quickly obtain a large number of new plants;
• preservation of all varietal characteristics of the mother plant;
• high survival rate of planting material;
• ease and accessibility of this method of reproduction.

To obtain the mustache, the strongest bushes are selected, which last season produced an abundant and high-quality harvest, and they are marked. In the spring, the flower stalks on such specimens are cut off, preventing them from bearing fruit, so that all the plant’s forces can be directed to the formation of powerful vegetative shoots.

The procedure for propagating strawberries with a mustache

In the first season, you should not think about how to propagate strawberries with mustaches. On the contrary, it is recommended to remove all mustaches that managed to form during this period. It will be enough to completely harvest the entire harvest and identify the strongest bushes - those that were able to survive all weather changes without consequences and were not attacked by insect pests and could produce the largest and most delicious berries.

It is recommended to mark the best bushes suitable for further full propagation in some way - tie a rope, stick a label or label.

The number of tendrils and rosettes that will form on your plantings depends on the variety, method of cultivation and age of the seedlings. Typically, an annual strawberry plant produces on average up to 30 rosettes, and a biennial plant produces up to 70 rosettes.

Usually, up to five tendrils are left on one uterine bush, each with three rosettes.

The maximum development of whiskers is formed in young plants. Accordingly, older bushes will have fewer of them. In strawberries, it can often be observed that the most productive plantings produce the least amount of stems. However, in the second year they should be used as planting material to produce seedlings (new rosettes).

When selecting rooted rosettes, give preference to those with a more developed root system, 6-7 cm long, and in which an apical bud has formed. Often from the mother plant there are 1-3 rooted rosettes.

However, the best choice would be the first row of outlets. The best seedlings from 1-2 year old plantations, healthy and not affected by diseases and pests. The quality of the material depends on when it is received: the earlier a healthy rosette appears and takes root, the stronger and more powerful the seedlings will be.

For early planting, it is better to separate the rosettes from pure-grade, strong mother bushes and plant them in the beds.

Landing

The resulting material is placed on beds 80 by 40 cm. As soon as the strawberries have produced mustaches, they are laid out between the plantings and pinned to the ground or transplanted into seedling pots and dug into the ground, while removing all the buds on the plants as soon as they form. Next, they require abundant watering.

The newly formed rosettes must be buried in loose soil and sprinkled with peat on top. As soon as the plantings have taken root well (after 2-3 weeks), they are separated from the mother bushes and planted in early autumn or spring. But they are not separated immediately; it is worth waiting a couple more weeks so that the root system becomes stronger.

Only the most powerful, developed and large bushes are selected for propagation. Poorly developed, small ones are removed. At this time, new plantings are looked after in the same way as the main bushes - watered, loosened, weeds removed, fed.

To ensure that the rosettes do not experience stress during transplantation and this does not have a negative impact on the next year's harvest, dig up a plant with a large earthen lump.

When should you pick the mustache of a strawberry, in the morning or in the evening?

It is necessary to pull out the mustache in the evening, preferably on a cloudy day.

When to pick strawberry whiskers, morning or evening:

• Choose a cloudy day to remove tendrils and leaves, but without rain.
• Do not prune on a rainy day or in damp weather. During this period, moisture gets into the cut area, the mustache does not dry out, but rots.
• This is an additional danger to the mother bush, which can lead to its deterioration and the formation of a large number of rotten berries.
• If some of the rosettes have taken root, but you do not plan to plant or update the beds, you will need to completely dig them up or remove them with a hoe.
• Thickening of plantings with rosettes, shoots and leaves contributes to the formation of a large amount of shade.
• As a result, gray rot can form, fungal spores that contribute to rotting and damage to the berries.
• The cleaner the bushes, the better. Along with removing the mustache, be sure to tear off the leaves that begin to wither and turn yellow.
• This is an excellent source for the growth of pathogenic microflora.

Fruit

How to root a mustache without roots

Many people have a question about how to propagate strawberries if the strawberry bed is covered with a layer of covering material and the runners cannot take root. In this case, the shoots are cut off and placed in water. The water should be at room temperature. Root growth stimulants are added to it. Kornevin, Zircon, succinic acid are known means that can root a sprout. The soaked sprouts are planted in light, loose soil to a depth of 2-3 cm. As the soil dries, the soil is moistened. With the proper amount of moisture and nutrients, the root system will be formed by the end of the season.

Rooting a mustache with Epin

A popular rooting agent called Epin. Before planting strawberry sprouts in the soil, it is recommended to soak them for 4-5 hours in a solution of this substance. To obtain the required mixture, 1 ml of a 0.05% solution of the substance is added to 2 liters of water. This procedure will stimulate the growth of the root system. Epin helps to root a young bush.

Landing rules

Sometimes novice gardeners make mistakes when planting strawberries. They hope to get a good harvest and at the same time plant a large number of mustaches. But if the plant has wasted its energy on fruiting, you should not expect good mustache from it.

As a result, the plant becomes weak, bears fruit poorly, and is often susceptible to diseases. Therefore, you should plant the plant itself correctly, following the planting rules, and subsequently plant it correctly, growing mustaches when planting.

To prepare for further propagation of the plant, it is necessary to select a mother bush. To do this, immediately after planting, it is necessary to take and remove the mustaches from all planted bushes. Next you need to wait until the berries form. After fruiting begins, you need to carefully inspect all the bushes.

Some gardeners even replant these bushes separately. Then, after the first buds begin to appear, they are taken and removed so that the strawberries spend their energy not on fruiting, but on forming strong and healthy tendrils, which will subsequently become material for planting seedlings.

After a few months, whiskers will begin to appear, this is preparation for future planting material. To properly prepare the sprouts, you can even dig in the whiskers that are visible on the surface.

They will become stronger and the root system will be more developed with this planting. But at the same time, you should leave only the largest shoots; there is no need to leave weak ones, as they will not make strong seedlings.

Preparation of the mustache also involves shortening it; you need to leave only one rosette, which is located in close proximity to the main bush. If you need to plant a large number of seedlings, you can leave a few more rosettes. When their roots take root, you can:

1. Press the rosettes into the soil, pressing them down and covering them with soil, after which you need to water them.
2. There is no need to separate the sprouts from the main bush; you can simply plant them in nearby pots or other containers. Next, the sprouts will take root for their subsequent planting, after which they can be taken from the pot and planted.

Growing seedlings

Success in growing strawberries lies in regular watering, fertilizing and creating favorable air humidity for the seedlings. You have to water the seedlings in cups every day, since the soil in a confined space dries out quickly.

If the weather is hot and dry in the summer, it is useful to shade the strawberries from the scorching sun with white lutrasil or ordinary tulle. In the evening, the foliage of the plants is irrigated with warm water from a watering can or sprayer.

In addition to watering with water with a root growth stimulator, it is useful to feed strawberry seedlings with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer (20 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water) or ready-made mineral fertilizer for strawberries (Kemira Lux). Fertilizing is carried out 12-16 days after the start of rooting.

Propagation of strawberries in summer by dividing the bush

If it is not possible to obtain good planting material from strawberry mustaches (small, diseased, poorly developing), we use another method of propagation - dividing the bush.

You will need three-year-old bushes with a heart at ground level: divide them into horns. If you choose a young bush, it will not produce many horns. Plants of “retirement” age have tall hearts: when divided, stems with bark are formed that do not produce abundant harvests. A three-year-old bird produces 6-20 strong young horns.

We plant them in the garden at the end of July - early August, so that strong bushes have time to form, and we care for them as we do for other strawberries.

As you can see, propagating strawberries with mustaches and dividing a bush in the summer is not so difficult, the main thing is to follow the technology for obtaining planting material and rooting. Regularly update your strawberry plantation using any of the convenient methods, and it will always delight you with large harvests!

Preparing the soil for planting garden strawberries with mustaches

A place for planting strawberries must be chosen that is windless and sunny; without sufficient lighting, the berries will turn out watery and not tasty.

The most suitable soils for growing are sandy; when growing on clean chernozems, it is recommended to add sand to improve air permeability and make the soil looser.

When planning to propagate strawberries with a mustache, you should first prepare the area for future plantings. The preparation algorithm is quite simple:

1. The first step is to weed the weeds. In severe cases, you can use fungicides, such as Roundup. It is better to destroy perennial weeds such as creeping wheatgrass immediately rather than to suffer later with unsuccessful attempts to eliminate them.
2. Dig the soil to the depth of a spade bayonet, simultaneously adding one of the organic fertilizers: humus, chicken manure or compost, at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 square meter.
3. Mark the area, taking into account the distance between future bushes should be 40 by 40 centimeters.

Important! The best predecessors for strawberry plantings are carrots, radishes, beets and legumes.

Seating methods

The mustache must be properly prepared for the planting process. For this purpose, regular inspections of mother plants are carried out, identifying and destroying weak and non-viable tendrils so that they do not draw out nutrients and inhibit the development of stronger specimens. Mustache selection is carried out in June.

After choosing a strong mustache, you need to decide on rosettes for seating. On each of the whiskers, the largest and most viable rosette is selected, the rest are removed. Only on very strongly developed mustaches can a second rosette be left.

Landing dates

Although this berry is quite common, it requires attention and special care. As well as soil fertilization, protection from pests and bacteria, and many other tricks. But if you do everything right, you can enjoy the taste of strawberries grown with your own hands.

After this period, the strawberries begin, as people say, to “degenerate.” You yourself may notice that after 3-4 years the strawberry bush becomes weak, the berries become smaller and smaller, and their quantity is also not very abundant.

Strawberries need to be replanted every 3-4 years

• As for the timing, it is advisable to complete the autumn planting before the end of September. If the climate allows, then you can wait until October.
• It is advisable to complete spring planting before flowering begins. This is approximately the month of April. At this time, active vegetation occurs, the bush will grow and take root.
• Summer planting rule: strawberries are replanted after they bear fruit. Approximate planting dates are July-August.

Strawberry planting dates in spring, summer and autumn

They have to:

• have a well-developed root system with a root length of at least 7 cm and a large number of white suction roots;
• the diameter of the root collar should not be less than 6 mm;
• have at least four developed leaves.

Warning! Strawberries should be planted no later than a month before the onset of frost so that the young bushes can take root well.

In order for the plants to feel comfortable in the garden and to be able to devote all their efforts to the formation of a harvest, and not to survival, it is necessary not only to plant the plants correctly, but also to skillfully prepare the soil, and choose a site that suits their requirements.

First you need to decide on the planting method. It can be single-row or double-row. In the latter case, the distance between the rows should be about 60 cm. The distance between the bushes depends on the variety. For powerful and productive plants it can reach 60 cm. But for most varieties it can be 30 cm.

It will require at least 1 liter. We cut off the tendril connecting the daughter rosette to the mother plant. Before planting, strawberry bushes should be watered so that the earthen ball is better preserved

This is especially important if the weather is dry.

Attention! Never tuck the roots of seedlings. She will be sick for a long time or will not get used to it at all.

It is very important that the root collar of the planted plant is not buried in the ground and that the roots are not exposed. The root collar should be strictly at soil level

After planting, mulch the soil around the bushes well. Rotted sawdust, hay, or pine or spruce needles are suitable as mulch.

Attention! Pine needles are not only a good mulch, but also an excellent preventative against many diseases that affect this berry. Black non-woven material can also be used as mulch.

Then the technology for planting sockets will be slightly different. Non-woven material is spread on the prepared bed, securing it along the edges. Cross-shaped cuts are made at the site of future holes and the edges of the tissue are folded back

Black non-woven material can also be used as mulch. Then the technology for planting sockets will be slightly different. Non-woven material is spread on the prepared bed, securing it along the edges. At the site of future holes, cross-shaped cuts are made and the edges of the tissue are folded back.

• no need to fight weeds;
• the ground will be loose;
• moisture is retained longer, which means you will have to water less often;
• the thermal regime in the root zone will be more comfortable for plants;
• the berries will not get dirty, and the strawberries themselves will get sick less.

Warning! With any planting method, in the first days the bushes need protection from the sun.

It is best to cover the beds with white non-woven material. So, the seedlings will take root better.

Further care of the planted bushes consists of watering and protection from possible frosts.

Don't let your strawberry plantation grow old. Renew it in time with daughter rosettes so that the harvest is always pleasing.

Planting strawberries in open ground in spring

Spring planting is carried out as soon as the threat of frost has passed. If this condition is not met, tender sprouts can easily freeze and the plants will not take root in the new place.

To ensure that the procedure is successful, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with some of its features below.

Methods

There are several ways to plant strawberries. For beginner gardeners, an ordinary one will be more affordable, but we will consider other options so that every gardener can choose the right one for themselves.

The main methods for planting strawberries are:

• Strings – considered the simplest way. Seedlings are planted at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other. A gap of at least 40 cm is left between the rows. Maintenance involves constant loosening, removal of tendrils and weeds.
• The good thing about the carpet method is that maintenance of the garden bed is minimal and is suitable for those who rarely visit the dacha. This method does not involve cutting off the tendrils, which is why the plants quickly cover the ground with a “carpet” with their own microclimate. They are planted in rows with a distance between bushes of 6-7 cm, and between rows of 25-30 cm. The disadvantage of this method is that there will be no large fruits.
• Nests: with this arrangement, one bush is planted in the center of the nest, and around it at a distance of 10 cm another 6-7 plants. The distance between nests must be at least 30 cm.

The bush method is considered no less popular. The bushes are planted in the form of rectangles, the distance between them horizontally is half a meter and vertically about 70 cm. This method allows the plants to develop well, but requires more careful care.

Methods

To plant strawberries in open ground, classical methods are used. But there are also those that involve the use of special containers or landscape changes.

One-line and two-line landing methods are considered classic. Non-standard methods include (Figure 5):

1. Vertical planting: plants are planted in pots, pipes, on old tires or building mesh. Structures are built strictly vertically.
2. In bags: plastic bags with soil are hung vertically or laid horizontally, then holes are made for the plants.
3. Planting under agrofibre or creating film tunnels: this method allows you to get the first harvest much faster. But it takes up a lot of space.

Figure 5. Unusual growing methods: in vertical beds, bags and under agrofibre

But the most modern and unusual method is hydroponics. It is used in greenhouses on an industrial scale. Plants are grown on a substrate of peat mixture, mineral wool and coconut fiber, while the harvest does not depend on weather conditions and can be harvested all year round.

Open ground planting scheme

After choosing a variety, you need to determine the correct cultivation scheme. There are several types of planting schemes (Figure 6):

• Single-line: the gap between the bushes should be up to twenty centimeters, between the rows - up to ninety. Gradually, the space between the rows will be filled with new bushes that form from the rooting of rosettes. Mustaches that have spread further than 15 cm from the row are cut off.
• Two-line: the gap in the rows is up to seventy centimeters, in the rows up to thirty, and between the bushes twenty. In this case, all mustaches are removed without exception.
• Three-line: in a bed more than three meters wide, seedlings are planted in two rows. The gap between the bushes is approximately thirty centimeters.

Figure 6. Types of schemes for growing crops in open ground

When choosing a planting scheme, you need to take into account the size of the area. For the first year, it is recommended to plant strawberries in single rows, since this planting pattern allows the tendrils to grow throughout the garden bed.

Spring planting time in open ground

Planting of strawberries begins in the second ten days of April and ends in early May. In the northern regions it is postponed for two or more weeks and starts in May and ends in early June. The southern regions begin to plant strawberries as soon as the frosts end, that is, in March. The time of planting depends on climatic conditions - when the snow melts, the frosts pass and the earth warms up.

It is better to plant strawberries on a cool, cloudy day in moist and warm soil. It is recommended to carry out the procedure in open ground in the evening. Overnight, the seedlings will take hold and become stronger in the soil. The main thing is that there is no frost at night. In the daytime, young plants can be covered with film for the first time so that the spring sun does not burn the young plants.

How to choose a landing site

To plant this delicious berry, choose the right place in the sun. Of course, the crop will be able to bear fruit in the shade, but in this case it will not lose its taste and commercial qualities only if there is an appropriate resistant variety.

In lowlands where groundwater and cold air accumulate, strawberries will not be able to grow well. However, open hills are not suitable for it either, since in this case the plant will often get sunburned.

It is optimal to plant in a place that is level, well lit and protected from the wind. The southwestern part of the garden plot with a slight slope of 2-3 degrees is ideal. This slope is almost invisible, however, it can protect the strawberries from the accumulation of water.

When planting strawberries, it is important to take into account what plants were previously cultivated in this area. It is not advisable to choose a bed in which you grew:

It is not advisable to choose a bed in which you grew:

• tomatoes;
• ranunculaceae;
• sunflower;
• potato.

It is especially dangerous to plant strawberries in a garden where nightshades previously grew: tomatoes, potatoes and eggplants can transmit dangerous viruses.

Good harvests can be expected if the predecessors were the following:

• beans;
• parsley;
• garlic;
• onion;
• oats;
• peas;
• mustard;
• dill;
• salad;
• radish.

Soil preparation

The soil in the strawberry garden should be slightly acidic: no more than 5.5-6.5 pH. To obtain a good harvest, podzolic, chernozem soils, as well as dark gray forest soil with a light or medium structure are optimal.

Also suitable are sandstone, turf soil, podzolic

It is important that the substrate has high permeable characteristics, is loose, and fairly light. Dense soil with a high clay content is not suitable for strawberries.

Also, you should not plant this crop in peat soil or light gray soil.

Be sure to first clear the bed of weeds, dig it up and loosen it. If possible, remove the remains of previous crops from the soil. 3-4 days before planting the mustache, spill the soil with water with Fitosporin diluted in it. This measure will help protect planting material from damage by fungi and pests.

After water procedures, sprinkle the bed with wood ash. This will help make the harvest more abundant and the soil more nutritious. To make the mustache root faster in the ground, add superphosphate to the garden bed (80-100 g per 1 m2).

It is also recommended to add humus, which will make the substrate much more fertile. One small bed requires 4-5 buckets of humus.

How to plant correctly

Each planting method has its own advantages and disadvantages. You need to weigh everything to decide which method is right for you, based on what conditions and care you can provide to the strawberries.

In open ground

Planting strawberries in open ground can be done in several ways. Each of them has its own landing pattern:

• With the nesting method, one hole is made in the center, and another 6 holes are marked around it at a distance of 10 cm. The distance between nests should be at least 30 cm. The advantage of this planting method is the ability to obtain large harvests of strawberries for several years. Nest planting will require quite a lot of seedlings - for some this may be a disadvantage of the method.
• The bush method provides the berries with space for development and good air circulation. Thanks to this, the bushes are less sick and produce large, perfectly ripened berries. With this method, seedlings are planted in a 50x70 cm rectangle. Few seedlings are required, but the plants will need regular care. You will have to loosen and mulch the soil more often, and regularly remove weeds and tendrils. Bush planting is suitable for those who have enough time to care for berry bushes.
• Row planting is done in one or two rows (lines). The bushes are planted at a distance of 15-25 cm from each other, the gap between the rows should be 40 cm. Standard care is required for plants planted according to this scheme. The strawberries are periodically torn off, loosened and weeded. The berries grow of medium size, but there are a lot of them. This planting method allows you to get the highest yields.
• The carpet method is suitable for those who cannot devote time to caring for berry plantations. With this method of planting, you don’t have to cut off the mustache at all. The bushes are planted in a row with an interval of 7 cm, leaving 30 cm of space between the rows. As a result, strawberries grow in a continuous carpet and a special microclimate is formed in such a planting. The thick green mass prevents moisture evaporation and prevents weeds from growing. The method is only suitable for sunny, open areas. In a shaded place, the berries will begin to suffer from fungus. The disadvantage of this method is the small size of the berries.

Not only the development of the crop, but also the health of the bushes depends on proper planting. There is no hope of obtaining a harvest from diseased plants.

Under covering material

Recently, the method of planting strawberries under black polypropylene film or non-woven material has become widespread. Before planting the seedlings, the bed is completely covered with black material, in which holes are cut for the berry bushes. This method is good because the shelter retains moisture well and prevents weeds from growing, the berries do not come into contact with the soil and remain clean, and the mustaches do not take root in undesirable places.

Black agricultural material accumulates heat in the ground, strawberry bushes will not freeze at any time of the year. It does not decompose, unlike natural mulch, which means that plants are not attacked by bacteria and pathogenic fungi. If we compare film and non-woven material, the advantage will be on the side of the latter. It perfectly passes water for irrigation and fertilizer solutions, provides natural ventilation, and lasts for 3 years, while the film may become unusable the very next year.

On a note! In the southern regions of Russia, it is better to use white covering material to prevent overheating of the soil. There is also a two-layer shelter, one side of which is black and the other white. The black layer helps to warm the roots, and the white layer (facing the top) prevents them from overheating too much.

To the greenhouse

Strawberries are usually grown in a greenhouse in the northern regions. An excellent solution would be a polycarbonate greenhouse. The material perfectly transmits light and at the same time allows you to maintain a comfortable temperature for plants inside. In such a structure, strawberries will be protected from frost, wind and other adverse weather conditions. This berry does not like neighbors, so it is better not to grow anything other than it in such a greenhouse.

Planting can be done using classical technology - in the ground, or strawberries can be grown on raised beds 25-30 cm high, in bags with nutrient substrate, planted in pots with a diameter of 20 cm, arranged in several tiers. If you have a low greenhouse, it is only suitable for growing crops in the classical way. Bushes of early varieties are planted at a distance of 15 cm from each other, the rest - at intervals of 20 cm. The holes should have a diameter of 25 cm and the same depth. After planting, the surface is mulched or spunbond is used for this purpose.

Strawberry propagation in summer by mustache

Whiskers are strawberry shoots on which leaf rosettes are formed, which subsequently grow a separate root system and turn into adult bushes.

One garland can contain from 5 to 16 rosettes (the further south the region, the more there are), if it is not touched all summer. And from one bush you get up to 15 tendrils.

In the first years they grow strong and well developed, but as the mother bush ages they become smaller and stop forming.

Compared to the seed method, when propagating strawberries by layering, you quickly get many full-fledged young plants with preservation of varietal qualities, they quickly take root. The only negative is that it is not possible to get a lot of large berries and good planting material from the mother bushes at once.

How to get whiskers for strawberry propagation

Garden strawberries are obtained from runners grown in July: they are strong and have time to acquire a strong root system and flower buds before the cold weather arrives.

To obtain seedlings we do the following:

• We choose bushes that produce the largest harvest of large, sweet berries.
• We cut off absolutely all flower stalks, not allowing the strawberries to bloom: this year we need to get not berries from them, but strong and healthy material for planting.
• We leave 3-5 layerings on the plants located in the first row: cut off all excess.
• Let the shoots grow. When three rosettes appear on them, cut off the garland after the third: rosettes formed later are not suitable for propagation.

As soon as the roots appear on the tendrils, we sprinkle them with damp soil, but do not separate them from the mother plants, because the first rosette receives food from the mother plant, the second from the first, and the third from the second.

Growing strawberries from mustaches with transplantation

We regularly water the future planting material: during drought - three times a week. As soon as the soil is compacted, loosen it. After a couple of months from the start of growth, the tendrils become full-fledged planting material with a well-formed root system.

For planting, we select rosettes that have four to five healthy leaves, a large heart and at least seven centimeter roots. We cut off the seedlings from the mother plants and, preserving the earthen ball, transplant them to where they will grow and bear fruit.

Obtaining strawberries from mustaches without transplanting

Any crop, including garden strawberries, weakens after transplantation and takes a long time to take root in a new place, and some rosettes die.

Why is it better to root cuttings in a permanent place:

• Plants produce a larger harvest than when transplanted.
• The bushes easily extract moisture from the deep layer of soil, and therefore are not afraid of droughts.
• The roots will penetrate the soil much deeper than the roots of rosettes obtained from seedlings.

We direct the mustache with rosettes that have not had time to form roots to the desired place and root it, choosing one of the proven methods.

Methods for rooting strawberries in a permanent place

Strawberry rows

Excellent technology for growing strawberries in one row. We direct the layering in one direction from the queen cells or in both directions, getting two rows of young plants. We cut off the excess antennae. We root only the second rosettes: the first ones are too close to the main bush (so as not to interfere with the process, we cut off their foliage or roots).

When the rosettes become strong and independent, we cut them off and care for them like the rest of the strawberries.

Strawberry colonies

If there is no space on the site for a young strawberry plantation, we use the colonial method. We let the whiskers grow in different directions, in the middle of August we select the strongest ones and leave them (25 cm from the queen cells), remove the rest. We regularly weed and water the colony, loosen the soil around the seedlings.

As a result, by September we get a varietal colony of garden strawberries with a healthy root system, ensuring abundant harvests for several years.

When to propagate Timing

Speaking on average, the best time to trim the mustache and transplant it to your own garden bed is from the end of July to the first half of September.

The mustache intended for further propagation is trimmed two weeks before the intended planting in a separate bed. After separation from the mother plant, the bushes begin to feed on their own resources. By that time their roots are already quite developed.

But although the mustaches begin to form their own root system around the beginning of June, they cannot be cut off immediately.

It is necessary to give enough time for the development of roots: throughout this period the rosette must be fed from the mother bush. Experienced gardeners advise separating the outlet in the summer in August or even early September - gardeners choose specific dates based on the realities of their climate.

If we are talking about a cold region, then it is better to separate and plant the rosettes early: in July-the first half of August. In cool regions, autumn comes early, and young bushes may not have time to take root.

Late types of garden strawberries are recommended to be propagated later: optimally at the end of August. Also, propagation of remontant varieties is postponed to a later date.

in spring

In regions with a mild climate, spring planting of mustaches is also acceptable. But to do this, in the fall you need to select high-quality mother bushes and leave a pair of strong mustache-stepchildren on them. For the winter, such bushes are fed and covered more thoroughly than usual.

The separation of sockets occurs in this case at the end of March. You should not expect a harvest this year - on the contrary, it is recommended to cut off all emerging flower stalks. The task of the bush during the first growing season is to take root properly and get stronger, and it is better to postpone fruiting until next year.

If night frosts are frequent in the area in the spring, it is recommended to cover the bed with agrofibre or film after planting the bushes.

Caring for strawberry rosettes after propagation

During the period of formation of the root system at the rosettes, they must always be in loose, moist soil, the top layer of which must be loosened frequently and carefully. Approximately half a liter of water is consumed per seedling.

For two weeks, the bed is moistened along the furrows 2-3 times a day, then watering is reduced.

Caring for seedlings involves removing weeds and adding special fertilizers for seedlings to the soil, containing not only potassium, phosphorus and iron as fertilizer for berries, but also nitrogen fertilizer, which stimulates the formation of a powerful rosette and subsequently a peduncle.

When growing rosettes separated from the mother bushes in a garden bed, it should be taken into account that if the loose substrate settles, already formed roots and a paw (tail of the mustache) may be exposed, which should also produce roots. To prevent this from happening, lightly hill the rosette when loosening.

The roots of seedling rosettes grow within two to three weeks.

Strawberry propagation using mother bushes

Proper propagation of strawberries begins with the selection of so-called mother bushes. To do this, in the first year after planting, absolutely all the mustaches are removed from absolutely all strawberry bushes and wait for fruiting. The bushes that survived the vagaries of the weather best, did not get sick and produced the largest berries are marked. With a sticker, a stick, a piece of string - whatever you like, as long as it’s noticeable. These are your future mother bushes. For convenience, you can even transplant them into a separate bed according to the scheme: 40 centimeters between bushes, 80 centimeters between rows.

Thus, unable to produce seeds, plants will put all their energy into vegetative propagation, that is, into runners. Already in the first month of summer, the uterine bushes will begin to produce mustaches. The sockets will subsequently be tied to them. In this case, you need to leave only the largest, most powerful mustache. Do not spare a trifle, cut it off mercilessly. The best option is to shorten the strawberry tendrils, leaving only one rosette on each, the one closest to the mother bush. But if we need a lot of seedlings, then we can use the second and third sockets. True, only those that look healthy, strong and have no defects.

When to propagate strawberries with a mustache

The propagation process of garden strawberries begins in June with the appearance of the first whiskers. And in the first ten days of August, all the young daughter bushes should already take root in a new place

It is very important to meet these deadlines

In this case, the rosettes will have time to get stronger and grow enough roots and leaves to survive the winter without any problems.

Growing young strawberry rosettes

So, our mother plants produced tendrils, and the first roots finally appeared on the daughter plants. In the future, two options are possible:

Preparing a bed for planting strawberry seedlings

Two weeks before planting, the mustache connecting the rosettes to the mother bush is cut. During this time, the “daughters” will have time to get used to eating exclusively from their own roots.

It’s time for us to prepare a place of residence for young bushes! The simplest method involves digging up the soil and removing all weeds. For each square meter of freshly dug beds we add 300 grams of ash, as well as a bucket of sawdust and peat. Mix everything again with a pitchfork and water a little.

For strawberries, you can prepare several options for beds. Which ones? Read the details HERE: https://dachnye-sovety.ru/podgotovka-gryadki-pod-klubniku-v-avguste

Planting strawberries and caring for a new bed

Planting strawberries (strawberries): timing and technology

And in order for the newly planted plants to quickly take root in a permanent place, we are required to:

• Water the garden bed well (but do not flood it);
• carefully weed the weeds, not allowing the slightest competition;
• loosen the soil, preventing a crust from forming;
• fertilize with nitroammophoska (a tablespoon per bucket of water).

That's all. We learned how to properly propagate strawberries with tendrils, acquired mother bushes, created a new strawberry bed and provided the newly planted plants with everything necessary for rapid rooting.

By the way, the mother bushes we selected will serve as a source of high-quality seedling material for two to three years. Moreover, two- or three-year-old strawberries produce much more whiskers than first-year ones. Well, after three years, it is recommended to replace the mother bushes with young ones, carrying out the entire selection procedure again.

We wish you success and great harvests!

Author of the article: Dudko S.G. The article is protected by copyright law. Its reprinting and copying without the consent of the author is a violation of the law. Dachnye-sovety.ru

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Preparing the bed

The new bed is prepared in advance. The following measures must be taken to make the seedlings comfortable:

1. Remove weeds so that they do not take food away from the strawberry seedlings.
2. Dig up the soil with humus, compost, adding wood ash. In winter, plants need potassium and phosphorus, so you can add superphosphate to feed and protect the roots in frost.
3. Until the mustache is transplanted, the bed can be covered with agrofibre to block access to sunlight and prevent weeds from growing again.

Fertilizers per square meter are applied according to the instructions, if these are mineral mixtures. If organic, then you need 300 g of wood ash per meter, compost, rotted wood waste or low-lying peat - a bucket. After digging until the consistency is uniform, the soil is moistened.

The soil should be moist and loose so that enough oxygen reaches the young roots. In such soil, beneficial soil bacteria multiply well and produce humus.

If there is clay soil on the site, this does not allow the roots to breathe normally, and they are more likely to rot. To create suitable conditions, you need to dig up the soil with sand. Enough to a depth of 20 cm - this is how the underground part of the strawberry is located in the soil.

How to choose a mother bush

To obtain healthy and high-quality planting material, you should first select suitable donors - mother plants that will produce the required tendrils.

Inspect the strawberry bed and mark the bushes that have the largest size, productivity and other positive characteristics.

Pay attention to the size and volume of berries obtained from a given bush: plants obtained from mustaches will most likely have the same characteristics. You can mark a bush by sticking a small peg with a bright ribbon next to it.

You can mark a bush by sticking a small peg with a bright ribbon next to it.

It is almost impossible to obtain high-quality developed mustache in a year of abundant strawberry fruiting. You need to choose one thing: either a good harvest this year, or a full-fledged mustache.

Therefore, having chosen suitable mother plants, we advise you to let them fully bear fruit this year, and next year remove all the tendrils, leaving only a couple of the strongest ones. In this way, the strawberries will direct their energy to the development and growth of the mustache, that is, the planting material will turn out healthy and strong.

Advantages and disadvantages of the method

• You can grow a large number of mustaches in a short period of time.
• Easy to grow.
• It is possible to adjust the number of mustaches.
• Layerings retain all the characteristics of the mother plant.
• High survival rate of layering after transplantation.

The disadvantages include the fact that the bushes chosen for growing mustaches will not produce a harvest. Or it will be very meager. Also, if male bushes were selected for growing cuttings, such seedlings will not bear abundant fruit.

How to prepare strawberries for propagation

In the first year of growth, all tendrils are removed from a young strawberry bush. When fruiting begins, you need to put marks on the bushes with the largest berries: it is from these bushes, which we will later call mother plants, that it makes sense to take propagation material.

Next year, the planned bushes cannot be allowed to bear fruit: all buds with peduncles are removed from them, without waiting for the flowers to open. At the end of spring or early summer, tendrils form near the mother bushes, at the ends of which rosettes will form. 2-3 of the largest rosettes of the first order with branched roots will be the material for vegetative propagation of strawberries. The remaining rosettes that will not be used as seedlings should be removed with a sharp sterile instrument, making an oblique cut on the tendrils, and you will have to remove the tendrils and rosettes several times during the season.