What to plant in the garden after strawberries next year in the garden: crop rotation

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Strawberries are correctly called garden strawberries. In Russia, it is grown in 90% of cases in garden plots. The berry is demanding, capricious, but incredibly healthy. In this article we will tell you what to plant after strawberries in the beds, so as not to disrupt crop rotation and maintain crop yields.

Its appearance in the spring pleases not only the adult generation, but also children. This is no accident. Strawberries are rich in ascorbic acid, folic acid and the P group of vitamins. The main thing is that it contains the optimal dose of iodine for humans. Of all the berries grown, strawberries are the first to appear on your table. There are varieties that are ready to delight us from mid-spring or early summer.

By fortifying the body, it helps the weakened body recover from a lack of vitamins in early spring. Many gardeners are familiar with the therapeutic properties of this berry. It is recommended to be used for hypertension, ulcers, gastritis, atherosclerosis and diabetes. Strawberries have a bactericidal and anti-inflammatory effect on the body as a whole.

Knowing the methods of growing and caring for such a useful berry, one must not forget that crop rotation helps to increase the yield of strawberries and helps fight diseases and pests, and combined planting has a beneficial effect on its growth and development.

Crop rotation on the site. What good is it?

Making the right crop rotation
Gardeners who are attentive to their plot know that planting the same plants leads to a decrease in yield. What is the reason for this phenomenon?

illnesses
accumulation of pests in the soil
depletion of the earth.

This happens due to the absence of a change in planting location, and according to science, crop rotation does not occur. Few people know that when using crop rotation of cultivated plants, their yield increases by 30%. A significant difference, you are right to notice! For the sake of such a noticeable positive effect, it is worth understanding in detail how to correctly replace some plants with others.

Pay attention to the general table of crop rotation of commonly found crops in the gardens and summer cottages of experienced farmers. Let's take an eight-year cycle as an example. There are both three-year-olds and four-year-olds. But the efficiency will increase several times if longer periods are used.

Years	Replacing vegetables and plants with others
1 year	Pumpkin squash	Cabbage cucumbers	Beans and peas; potatoes tomatoes	Root vegetables: beets, radishes	Garlic, onion	Strawberry 1 year	Strawberry 2 year	Strawberry 3rd year + sederats
2 year	Cabbage cucumbers	Beans and peas; potatoes tomatoes	Root vegetables: beets, radishes	Garlic, onion	Strawberry 1 year	Strawberry 2 year	Strawberry 3rd year + sederats	Pumpkin squash
3 year	Beans and peas; potatoes tomatoes	Root vegetables: beets, radishes	Garlic, onion	Strawberry 1 year	Strawberry 2 year	Strawberry 3rd year + sederats	Pumpkin squash	Cabbage cucumbers
4 year	Root vegetables: beets, radishes	Garlic, onion	Strawberry 1 year	Strawberry 2 year	Strawberry 3rd year + sederats	Pumpkin squash	Cabbage cucumbers	Beans and peas; potatoes tomatoes
5 year	Garlic, onion	Strawberry 1 year	Strawberry 2 year	Strawberry 3rd year + sederats	Pumpkin squash	Cabbage cucumbers	Beans and peas; potatoes tomatoes	Root vegetables: beets, radishes
6 year	Strawberry 1 year	Strawberry 2 year	Strawberry 3rd year + sederats	Pumpkin squash	Cabbage cucumbers	Beans and peas; potatoes tomatoes	Root vegetables: beets, radishes	Garlic, onion
7 year	Strawberry 2 year	Strawberry 3rd year + sederats	Pumpkin squash	Cabbage cucumbers	Beans and peas; potatoes tomatoes	Root vegetables: beets, radishes	Garlic, onion	Strawberry 1 year
8 year	Strawberry 3rd year + sederats	Pumpkin squash	Cabbage cucumbers	Beans and peas; potatoes tomatoes	Root vegetables: beets, radishes	Garlic, onion	Strawberry 1 year	Strawberry 2 year

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Functions of crop rotation in a garden plot

Strawberries - the first spring vitamin

All crops use different nutrients from the earth. Changing vegetables and berries allows you to replenish them. From inaccessible forms they move into the category of accessible ones.
Crop rotation is a biological tool that helps in the fight against many diseases and pests. Different crops are affected by different diseases. Provided that you grow the same plant continuously in one area for several years in a row, the disease accumulates in the soil, aggravates the situation of the plant, contributing to a significant reduction in yield.
Crop rotation makes it possible to avoid mass contamination and minimize the load of pesticides. The soil is replenished with nitrogen and organic matter, which allows the plant to breathe.

Remember that crop rotation is achieved only by changing the location of different families. Strawberry is a plant from the Rosaceae family. It also includes trees: apple, plum, cherry, rowan and shrubs: blackberry, raspberry, hawthorn, cloudberry, rose hip.

Let the earth sleep

Rosaceae family
If you have the opportunity to give the soil a rest, it is recommended to make a fallow field. The soil is treated to remove weeds and fertilized, but nothing is planted on it all season. Mineralization of humus occurs: nutrients are converted from inaccessible forms into accessible ones.

As an option, sederal steam technology is used. In the spring, the plot is sown with the sederats you have - crops with a huge vegetative mass: mustard, alfalfa, legumes, rapeseed, oats, rye. At the end of June the crop is plowed.

What are green manures and crop rotation?

Planting strawberries

Then plant carrots

Crop rotation is an annual change of crops growing in a garden bed, which is considered an integral part of agriculture. Correctly carried out crop rotation helps to increase soil fertility, and, as a result, improve the yield of vegetables and berries. Crop rotation carried out according to the rules also reduces the risk of crop contamination by pests and diseases remaining in the soil.

The bulk of strawberry roots lies close to the soil surface (about 25 cm), so the preceding and subsequent crops must have a root system that consumes nutrients from the lower layers of the soil. In this case, the consumption of macro- and microelements will be rational.

Root system

The most preferable precursors for strawberries are green manure - green crops that saturate depleted soils with all the necessary nutrients.

These include:

lupine;
mustard;
phacelia;
Vika, etc.

In addition to increasing fertility, green manure loosens the soil structure: after cutting the stems and burying them in the surface layer of the earth, the roots remain in the soil and decompose. This ensures good air permeability of the soil. Due to the positive effect on the composition and structure of the soil, green manure is also called natural green fertilizer.

Important! Green manure is mowed before flowering, left on the bed for several days to dry and plowed to a depth of 10...15 cm.

Useful predecessors and successors of strawberries

The main enemy of strawberries is nematodes. Nematodes are small worms, one to two centimeters long, that develop where there is abundant moisture. These parasites cause terrible changes in the development of the culture and lead to its death. Thanks to garlic and onions, garden hygiene works in places where nematodes are located.

Tip #1. Phytoncides repel worms. Strawberry Rescuers help naturally. A bed of beans, peas, carrots, spinach or parsley is suitable.

The benefits of garlic for strawberries are obvious.
It is good to plant strawberries in beds where green manure previously grew. The berry needs organic matter and oxygen.

Predecessor selection

Raspberries are sensitive to nitrogen content, so the best predecessors for them are legumes and grain crops, which saturate the soil with this useful element. Berry bushes feel quite good after vegetables, with the exception of nightshades. Potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and other representatives of this family are considered the worst predecessors for raspberries.

To avoid contamination of the crop with dangerous viral, bacterial and fungal diseases, it is not recommended to plant raspberries where berry bushes previously grew. Strawberries are also an unsuccessful predecessor for raspberries. These berry crops have a common worst enemy - the raspberry-strawberry weevil, the females of which lay eggs in the buds and gnaw the pedicels.

Replanting berries in the fall and cultivating the soil after it

Have you decided to replant your strawberries? It is recommended to carry out the work in the fall. The earth is still warm, but already saturated with moisture. Make the transplant in the evening or in cloudy weather. This will increase your confidence that the plant will take root. The plant will survive stress more calmly and acclimatize more easily. The loss of planting material will be reduced.

To preserve the root system, it is better to replant strawberries with a lump of earth. If the seedlings were given to you or you probably know that the previous place is infected, do not be lazy and carry out preventive measures. Remember crop rotation. Consider the fact that the roots of this plant must be treated before planting in a new, uninfected location.

Disinfection of strawberry roots with a solution is done as follows:

take five liters of water
add one and a half tablespoons of regular table salt
add half a teaspoon of copper sulfate to the solution
mix the ingredients well with water
carefully clean the root from the top layer of soil
place the rhizome up to the seven-lobed leaf in water for fifteen minutes
rinse off any residual disinfectant with running water

Tip #2. Plant strawberries with the root positioned vertically. It must not be folded, twisted or placed horizontally. Sprinkle soil down to the core and tamp it down a little with your fingers.

Water generously and mulch the hole with a fine fraction of pine bark. If you don't have bark on hand, use regular fertile dry soil. Cover the plant with a newspaper bag and a burdock leaf.

The effect of strawberries on the soil

Each crop has specific growing requirements. As for strawberries, this capricious berry requires careful care not only during harvesting, but also after it. Severely depleting the soil, this sweet berry is not able to bear fruit for more than 4 years in one place. If it is not replanted in time, the yield is significantly reduced and the berries become small.

Growing strawberries. The illustration for the article is used under the standard license ©ofazende.ru

The plant takes useful minerals from the soil, as well as potassium and nitrogen, the lack of which leads to the growth of weeds and pests. In the fall, the strawberry bushes along with the soil are transplanted to a new location. The area where the berry grew must be well fertilized with useful minerals. The mineralization of the soil will bring tangible results. The fertilized area, divided into grooves, should stand for several days, and then it should be dug well. Given the powerful root system of the plant, after digging up the bushes it is necessary to carefully remove all weeds.

A way to get rid of sick or outdated strawberries for the lazy

Transplanting strawberries before winter
Do not remove or dig up a bed of strawberries before winter if you want to get rid of them. Place thin cardboard or several layers of newspaper directly on the bushes. Pile wilted weeds, cuttings of thin tree branches, and foliage on top.

Spray thoroughly with Baikal EM1 solution. There is an opportunity to add rotted compost - that’s where it belongs! Now cover the “garbage” pile with a thick, light-proof film. The proximity of all components will recycle itself. You will not find any traces of strawberries and their roots next year. Feel free to make holes in the film in the spring and plant pumpkin, zucchini, and squash.

In a warm garden bed with such a wealth of mineral fertilizers and organic matter, melons will amaze with their shapes, sizes and taste. And you won’t have to waste your time digging, removing old strawberries and weeding.

Year 1

Field 1

Strawberry, 2nd year of fruiting. After its elimination, starting in mid-July, plant late vegetables before winter or sow green manure - mustard, rapeseed, oats, barley.

Field 2

Growing winter vegetables, or burying green manure and sowing vegetables that are undemanding to manure - these are carrots and other root vegetables (radishes, turnips, radishes, parsnips, beets, kohlrabi, parsley, oat root and scorzonera), kale, valerian, dill.

Field 3

Add manure to the soil in winter and early spring, or compost (as much as you can). Growing vegetables that love manure, such as cucumber, zucchini and other pumpkins, celery, garlic, leeks.

Field 4

Growing vegetables that do not require manure are carrots and other root vegetables (radishes, turnips, radish, parsnips, beets, kohlrabi, parsley, oat root and scorzonera), kale, valerian, dill.

Field 5

Growing early vegetables, these are early bel-koch cabbage, cauliflower and kohlrabi, summer radish, bunched turnips, carrots and celery in bunches, leaf and head lettuce, watercress, peas (harvesting of green beans and shelling peas begins in central Russia and Belarus in the second half of June - early July), onions, beets (when harvesting early beets in the first ten days of July), lettuce (30-40 days after germination), radishes, parsley, dill, spinach. Or sowing green manure - mustard, phacelia, lupine, mustard, oats. After harvesting, planting strawberries. When planting, add ash or phosphorus and potassium fertilizers to the soil (or at least to the holes).

Field 6

Strawberry, 1st year of fruiting.

What is recommended to plant after strawberries?

Next year, after strawberries, plant legumes (peas, beans, lentils, beans). They do not need nitrogen, which is already practically absent in the soil from strawberries. They feed on oxygen from their above-ground part, sending it through the stems to the roots and, accordingly, into the soil.

This unpretentious family will save the most depleted soils, bring a decent harvest, not forgetting to enrich it with minerals, and prepare it for next season’s plants.

Melons are popular among gardeners and also claim a place after strawberries. The soil for them needs to be fertilized and made sufficiently loose.
Favorite siderates. Both before and after planting strawberries, they will not only benefit your land, but also future plants. Not all summer residents allow themselves such luxury. There is often not enough space on the plots. And it’s not practical to miss the whole season and grow oats (see → the best green manures for strawberries, when and what to plant)
But those who have enough income decorate the beds where garden strawberries have been sitting for three to four years with flowers.

Is it possible to plant raspberries of different varieties in the same bed?

Many gardeners do not know whether it is possible to plant different varieties of raspberries together in one area and still get a harvest. The berry is a self-fertile plant that does not require pollination, so planting several varieties of the crop together will not affect the harvest. Some experts claim that such actions lead to an improvement in the taste of the fruit.

The use of this method can only cause discomfort in care, since varieties may require different fertilizers. Also, when planting varieties in the garden, it is necessary to leave marks that will allow you to determine the raspberry variety a year later, when it is necessary to thin out the bushes.

Important. The shrub propagates by cuttings, but using the seeds of dusty varieties, a new species can be developed.

Combined plantings before winter

Tulips, daffodils, peonies will add color to the area and give you a mood.
Do you leave strawberries to winter for the third year? Use the combined planting method. This will help enrich the soil and protect plants from harmful insects.

Plant winter garlic between the rows.
Place beans, lentils or peas in the middle of the strawberry bed. In this case, you need to first prepare the trellises so that the branches of the legumes do not fall over and shade the berries.
Gardeners sow marigolds along the edges of the rows. Yellow-orange flowers will save not only strawberries, but also cabbage and some root vegetables from insects.
Spinach on the sides of beds with garden strawberries has a beneficial effect on them.

Strawberry's Best Neighbors

In addition to the desirable and undesirable predecessors of the crop in question, it is worth paying attention to real neighbors, since, when grown nearby, not all of them will positively influence each other.

Good neighbors include:

nasturtium (attracts aphids to itself, protecting strawberry plantings from their attention);
onions and garlic (protect berries from the development of gray rot and save space in the garden due to mixed plantings);
root vegetables (beets, radishes, radishes).

It is not advisable to plant strawberry seedlings next to raspberries or other garden berry crops, because both plants can suffer from weevils and other common pests.
Also, you should not place berry plantations close to other strawberry, sea buckthorn and nightshade plantations, since they are characterized by the same diseases. Important! To make sure that it is appropriate to plant strawberries next to certain plants, it is worth reviewing the table of undesirable crop predecessors, since any of them cannot become a good neighbor for the berry.

Year 5

Field 1

Field 2

Strawberry, 1st year of fruiting.

Field 3

Strawberry, 2nd year of fruiting. After its elimination, starting in mid-July, plant late vegetables before winter or sow green manure - mustard, rapeseed, oats, barley.

Field 4

Field 5

Add manure to the soil in winter and early spring, or compost (as much as you can). Growing vegetables that love manure, such as cucumber, zucchini and other pumpkins, celery, garlic, leeks.

Field 6

Growing vegetables that do not require manure are carrots and other root vegetables (radishes, turnips, radish, parsnips, beets, kohlrabi, parsley, oat root and scorzonera), kale, valerian, dill.

Is it possible to plant after potatoes?

Experienced gardeners say that it is possible to plant strawberries after potatoes, but you should adhere to some rules, namely:

It is not advisable to plant strawberries in the fall immediately after the potatoes are dug up. This is explained by the fact that the soil may contain larvae of the Colorado potato beetle or wireworm. These pests can cause damage to berries. Another danger is posed by late blight, which infects root crops and, accordingly, the soil being grown;
the next year, in the place where the potatoes grew, you need to sow green manure plants (peas, mustard, clover, alfalfa, rapeseed, lupine, radish, buckwheat, phacelia, oats). With their help, the soil will rest from the previous vegetable, be cleansed of harmful microorganisms and filled with useful substances, which in the future will have a beneficial effect on the growth and development of strawberries;
but it is best to plant berry crops before winter after potatoes, 3-4 years later. Because root crops significantly deplete the soil, reducing its fertility. And the restoration process of the earth and enrichment with necessary minerals normally takes place over 2-3 years.

Year 4

Field 1

Growing vegetables that do not require manure are carrots and other root vegetables (radishes, turnips, radish, parsnips, beets, kohlrabi, parsley, oat root and scorzonera), kale, valerian, dill.

Field 2

Field 3

Strawberry, 1st year of fruiting.

Field 4

Strawberry, 2nd year of fruiting. After its elimination, starting in mid-July, plant late vegetables before winter or sow green manure - mustard, rapeseed, oats, barley.

Field 5

Field 6

Add manure to the soil in winter and early spring, or compost (as much as you can). Growing vegetables that love manure, such as cucumber, zucchini and other pumpkins, celery, garlic, leeks.

Year 3

Field 1

Add manure to the soil in winter and early spring, or compost (as much as you can). Growing vegetables that love manure, such as cucumber, zucchini and other pumpkins, celery, garlic, leeks.

Field 2

Growing vegetables that do not require manure are carrots and other root vegetables (radishes, turnips, radish, parsnips, beets, kohlrabi, parsley, oat root and scorzonera), kale, valerian, dill.

Field 3

Field 4

Strawberry, 1st year of fruiting.

Field 5

Strawberry, 2nd year of fruiting. After its elimination, starting in mid-July, plant late vegetables before winter or sow green manure - mustard, rapeseed, oats, barley.

Field 6

Year 6

Field 1

Strawberry, 1st year of fruiting.

Field 2

Strawberry, 2nd year of fruiting. After its elimination, starting in mid-July, plant late vegetables before winter or sow green manure - mustard, rapeseed, oats, barley.

Field 3

Field 4

Add manure to the soil in winter and early spring, or compost (as much as you can). Growing vegetables that love manure, such as cucumber, zucchini and other pumpkins, celery, garlic, leeks.

Field 5

Growing vegetables that do not require manure are carrots and other root vegetables (radishes, turnips, radish, parsnips, beets, kohlrabi, parsley, oat root and scorzonera), kale, valerian, dill.

Field 6

Year 2

Field 1

Field 2

Add manure to the soil in winter and early spring, or compost (as much as you can). Growing vegetables that love manure, such as cucumber, zucchini and other pumpkins, celery, garlic, leeks.

Field 3

Growing vegetables that do not require manure are carrots and other root vegetables (radishes, turnips, radish, parsnips, beets, kohlrabi, parsley, oat root and scorzonera), kale, valerian, dill.

Field 4

Field 5

Strawberry, 1st year of fruiting.

Field 6

Strawberry, 2nd year of fruiting. After its elimination, starting in mid-July, plant late vegetables before winter or sow green manure - mustard, rapeseed, oats, barley.