Location and layout
Planting an apricot tree begins with choosing a suitable place for it. If you intend to plant several seedlings, then this must be done according to the appropriate scheme, taking into account the characteristics of the crop.
Site selection
Like any southern plant, apricot needs to provide 2 main growing conditions:
- good sunlight throughout the day;
- reliable protection from high humidity and cold winds, especially in winter.
In addition, these trees have one peculiarity - in nature they prefer to grow on slopes, in most cases very steep. Such a relief is not typical for garden plots, so it is recommended to artificially create elevations of at least 30 cm in height, even on the most suitable soils for this crop.
Regarding the composition of the soil, the best option would be light neutral or low-alkaline loams. Young apricot trees take root and grow worst on heavy clay soils.
Landing diagram
The apricot planting scheme depends on its variety, as well as the characteristics of the region and the site itself. If you plan to plant an apricot orchard, then a 5x5 meter scheme is used with the formation of a spherical crown. Small plantings on a personal plot can be created according to individual schemes, taking into account general principles.
On an industrial scale, such trees are planted at intervals of 3 to 5 meters, and for the tallest trees the interval is increased even more. At the dacha or near the house, usually no more than 3-4 specimens are grown, and it is better to place them in one row. The minimum distance between seedlings should be 3–4 m, and it should be taken into account that as they grow, their crowns will close together.
Although there is a scientific opinion that apricot plantings should be thickened. In such conditions, some special protective mechanisms are launched in them, increasing resistance to frost and other negative weather factors.
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In any case, it should be borne in mind that an adult plant grows greatly and requires a lot of space. Moreover, this concerns not so much the above-ground part as the root system. The roots of these trees grow strongly, spreading throughout the beds and drawing nutrients from the soil. The size of the root system of an adult apricot is 2 times larger than the projection of its crown.
On the other hand, for good pollination it is necessary that at least 3 copies grow nearby. But if the area is small, then in order to leave room for planting other plants, it is better to limit yourself to one or two, because there will always be a relative nearby for pollination.
Favorable neighborhood
A large tree that shades a large area and depletes the soil several meters around it is itself an undesirable neighbor for almost all other crops. Therefore, before planting an apricot, you need to take into account that it will take up much more usable space than it itself needs.
Under the spreading crown, low-growing flowers can grow, blooming in early spring. For example, tulips and daffodils, the growing season of which occurs at a time when the soil is still sufficiently moist and the flowers bloom before leaves appear on the tree and shade them from the sun.
Pears, oak or ash can grow from trees nearby, the roots of which develop deeper and draw those nutrients that the apricot does not really need. He himself does not want to be in proximity to currants and raspberries. Of the predecessors, any stone fruits are not suitable. In general, this culture loves isolation and lives its own life.
Apricot seed propagation
An apricot grown from the seeds of a local plant will be much more resistant to microclimate, and the properties of the variety in the case of apricot are usually inherited. Therefore, seeds are an excellent method for growing apricots. The seeds are washed and planted either immediately, while still wet, and the bed is kept moist all summer, or stored in damp sand in the basement until autumn and planted no later than the beginning of October.
Another option is to plant the seeds in the spring. To do this, at the beginning of March, seeds stored at room temperature should be soaked for 5 days in cold water, constantly renewing it, and then placed in a bag in a damp substrate (sawdust, moss, sand), 1 part of seeds to 3 parts of substrate. The mixture is kept at +4+12 °C, holes are made in the bag for air access.
Stratification lasts from 40 to 100 days, depending on the apricot variety. You will know that the seeds are ready for planting when you see that the seeds have cracked and sprouted. But if this happened too early, then you need to transfer the seeds to an even colder place, 0+2 °C.
The seeds are planted in early May in neutral soil with organic and mineral fertilizers added to it in advance. A furrow is made in the prepared ridge, it is well watered and the seeds are planted to a depth of about 7 cm. The distance between seeds should be at least 10 cm, between rows 50 cm.
After planting, mulch the bed with humus, rotted sawdust or peat crumbs.
Apricot grows rapidly; during the summer the seedling will grow up to 100 cm. Next winter you can transplant the seedling to its permanent location or use it as a rootstock when grafting. In about 3-4 years the trees will begin to bear fruit.
Timing of work
The timing of planting apricot seedlings depends on the region. In southern latitudes with optimal climatic conditions for this crop, planting work is carried out in spring and autumn at any time while the plant is dormant.
In the middle zone, choosing planting dates is much more difficult due to the low resistance of the crop to cold. This problem is partially solved by grafting apricot cuttings onto wild specimens. You can also grow a seedling yourself from the seed of a local variety that is best adapted to the existing climate.
Related article:
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In any case, in the middle zone and near northern latitudes, apricot seedlings are planted only in the spring, mainly at the end of April. Autumn planting is only suitable for areas where there is no risk of freezing in the winter.
Planting tips for different regions
Before you start planting and caring for apricots, you need to understand the nuances of carrying out work in regions with different climatic conditions. Climate largely influences the timing of planting work:
- Southern regions. In this region, planting can begin in early spring. Many gardeners do this in mid-March and the first half of April.
- Middle Strip (Moscow region). Gardeners who live in the Moscow region can plant stone fruits in mid or late spring.
- Siberia and the Urals. Many people are interested in when to plant apricots in the Urals and Siberia. This should be done no earlier than the second half of May. Plants in this region cannot be planted too early, as they will not be able to take root quickly.
Many gardeners in the southern regions plant apricots in the spring Sources
- https://pocvetam.ru/sad/kak-posadit-abrikos.html
- https://5stihiynn.ru/kogda-luchshe-sazhat-abrikos-vesnoj-ili-osenju/
- https://ferma.expert/rasteniya/derevya/persiki/abrikos-posadka-i-uhod/
- https://ferma.expert/rasteniya/derevya/persiki/posadka-abrikosa-osenyu/
- https://vasha-teplitsa.ru/virashivanie/sorta-ovoshhej/kak-sazhat-abrikos.html
- https://ogorod-bez-hlopot.ru/posadka-abrikosa.html
- https://sadovnic.su/cvety/kak-posadit-abrikosovoe-derevo.html
- https://diz-cafe.com/sad-ogorod/kak-sazhat-abrikos.html
Correct fit
There is no particular difference between autumn and spring planting. But there are important nuances that need to be known and observed depending on the time of work.
in spring
Spring planting can be done in two ways:
- from the seed of the selected tree;
- grafted seedling.
Growing from seed takes longer, but is not difficult, and, most importantly, allows you to get exactly the plant you want.
From the seed
With proper pre-sowing treatment, apricot kernels are characterized by good germination, and the seedlings from them quickly grow and develop into a strong, actively fruit-bearing tree.
The work is performed in the following sequence:
- a seed from a fully ripened fruit is soaked in water for a day;
- then dry and leave in a dry, ventilated place until spring;
- in early March, soak again, but for a week, changing the water daily;
- after this, it is buried in moistened sawdust and kept indoors at +4°C...+12°C for 1–3 months;
- the specified period depends on the speed of germination - the shell should crack and a sprout should emerge from it;
- the sprouted seed is planted in well-warmed soil (usually in the first ten days of May), deepened to about 6 cm.
The emerging shoot needs to be properly cared for. Then next year it can be transplanted to a permanent place.
Seedlings
Planting material can be purchased in spring or autumn. A seedling purchased in the fall is buried or stored in the cellar until spring. In any case, he must be one or two years old, healthy, fully alive and always with his kidneys in a dormant state.
It is recommended to prepare the hole in the fall. The work algorithm will be as follows:
- dig a hole with a depth and diameter of 75 cm;
- the bottom is drained with small stones if the soil is clayey, and in sandy soil, on the contrary, the bottom is covered with a clay layer of 18–25 cm to retain moisture;
- fill the hole with a soil mixture consisting of 5 buckets of rotted mullein, 500 g of nitrophoska, ½ bucket of wood ash (another ½ bucket of slaked lime is added to the acidified soil), as well as soil extracted from the bottom of the hole (infertile), in such an amount that the entire mixture enough for a third of the volume of the hole;
- A fertile top layer is poured on top, filling the hole completely, a bucket of water is poured in and left in this form for the winter.
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If the pit has not been prepared in the fall, then spring preparation is carried out in the same way, at least 2 weeks before planting.
Planting work is performed in the following order:
- the roots of the seedling are soaked in water for several hours, and right before planting they are dipped in a thick clay solution;
- since the trees must grow on a mound, the hole before planting must be filled with soil mixture completely to ground level;
- a strong stake with a protruding part height of at least 1 m is driven into its center;
- A seedling is placed next to the support, the roots are straightened and gradually sprinkled with nutritious soil, periodically adjusting the roots so that there are no voids left between them;
- as a result, an elevation is formed, after compacting which the root collar should be located slightly above the surface of the earth, even if this leaves several roots slightly bare;
- Finally, the shoot is tied to a support.
A planted tree requires a lot of water for the growth of young roots. For ease of watering and better conservation of moisture, an earthen fence in the form of a roller is built around the trunk at the top of the hill. Immediately after completion of planting work, 20–25 liters of water are slowly poured into this circle. Subsequently, watering is carried out with such frequency and abundance that the elevation always remains slightly moist. At the end of summer, watering is stopped completely, giving the trees the opportunity to prepare for winter.
in autumn
Since you need to plant an apricot tree in the fall in almost the same way as in the spring, there is no need to describe the technique again. But you need to take into account some features:
- the hole is prepared in the same way at least 4 weeks before planting;
- if the seedling has leaves, they are carefully removed;
- the roots are slightly shortened and dipped in water, to which it is advisable to add clay, mullein and Bordeaux mixture (1%).
Since trees are planted in autumn only in regions with a mild climate, shelter for the winter is not required. You just need to whiten the trunk to protect it from the sun, temperature changes and pests.
Apricot care
Despite its drought resistance, apricots need watering for proper fruit development. Apricots should be fed when they bloom and when fruit appears. If there are too many fruits, this is detrimental to young, brittle apricot branches.
To increase the quality of the fruits themselves, the ovaries are thinned out, this is done after the excess ovaries have fallen off. In order to more clearly imagine how many ovaries should be left, use the ratio of fruits to leaves, as usual, it is 1 to 20. Of the insect pests, aphids cause the most trouble for apricots. To scare it away, you can plant nasturtium around it.
Features of planting in different climatic zones
Since it is possible to plant an apricot tree correctly only in compliance with the climatic conditions of the area, you need to take into account the important nuances of performing such work in a particular region.
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In the middle lane
The following amendments are being made to the rules for planting apricots in the central part of Russia:
- Trees should be planted exclusively at higher elevations, since even in minor lowlands cold air and excess moisture will stagnate;
- a slope may be a suitable place, but in no case a southern one, since sudden thaws are more dangerous for the crop than persistent frosts;
- the southern side of the buildings, on the contrary, is ideal and often such structures are built specifically for better heating of the plant by the sun's rays;
- Optimal soil is neutral sandstones and loams.
Otherwise, there are no differences from the actions described above.
In outskirts of Moscow
The Moscow region is part of the middle zone, but its climate is somewhat changed due to the large number of different industries and high population density. This leads to more frequent changes between frost and thaw, which causes great harm to apricots. Therefore, it is recommended to breed only frost-resistant species here.
Proper planting of apricots in this area involves the following additions to the general scheme:
- as a drainage material, they do not use small stones and other bulk substances, but a continuous covering, mainly sheets of slate or metal, which will prevent roots from growing deeper and protect the plant from the abundance of groundwater;
- the surface of the elevation and the area around it is sown with grasses, which are periodically mowed and left as mulch.
Although the second recommendation is quite suitable for any region.
In the Urals
Planting apricots in the Urals, characterized by unstable weather, requires a special approach. The main danger for the plant here is not winter frosts, but the melting of snow before the beginning of spring, due to which the root collar evaporates.
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Periodically thawing and then freezing water destroys the cambial layer, which leads to the slow death of the plant. Therefore, all winter it is necessary to remove snow from the tree trunk circle or cover it with suitable sheet material to reduce the amount of moisture.
The planting technology is no different from the traditional one. But stronger plants are obtained from seeds. Before winter, they are planted immediately in a permanent place, several in a hole prepared in the manner indicated above. In the spring, the strongest of the sprouts that appear are left.
In Siberia
Since planting an apricot tree in Siberia is the most risky business, it must be done as carefully as possible. In fact, everything needs to be done the same as in the Urals. Only in areas with the coldest winters is the plant given a stylized form.
To do this, the principle of planting work is changed somewhat:
- the seedling is placed at an angle of 45°;
- all shoots are attached to the ground;
- as it grows, only one tier is left, growing at the very surface, and all other branches are cut off “into a ring.”
Apricot is an easy crop to grow, but relatively demanding of certain external factors. In any case, you should try to grow such a tree on your site, but be sure to take into account the above recommendations.
Description of apricot
Now dozens of varieties are known with fruits weighing from 5 g to 165 g and a sugar content of 4.7-27% (and dry fruits contain more than 50% sugar). Possessing an attractive appearance, excellent taste and confectionery qualities, apricot has become the leading fruit crop in the gardens of the southern horticultural zone. It is known that apricot helps restore hemoglobin in the blood, and therefore it is recommended to eat it for anemia. In terms of high carotene content, apricot is equal to spinach, butter, and egg yolks.
It is consumed raw, compotes, preserves, jams, confitures are cooked, jellies and juices are made. European varieties are mostly self-fertile, while Transcaucasian and Central Asian varieties often require cross-pollination because they are either sterile or partially self-fertile.
Apricot belongs to the Rosaceae family and is a spreading tree with a strong trunk. This is a southern plant; for planting you should prefer the warmest, clearest and highest place in the garden that is permissible.
In Belarus
The Belarusian climate is characterized by high humidity, which is not very suitable for this crop. But here there are practically no long-term thaws in winter, and recurrent frosts occur only after the end of the flowering period. This contributes to good fruiting almost every year.
Before properly planting an apricot, a seedling in Belarus is grown independently in one of two ways:
- the bones of those trees that grow in the area;
- grafting onto frost-resistant plum and thorn crops.
The algorithm for performing planting work does not differ from the generally established one. But due to the presence of predominantly sandy soils, a clay layer 25 cm high must be laid at the bottom of the holes.
The best varieties of apricot
The group of self-fertile apricot varieties includes the following:
- Red-cheeked,
- Pineapple,
- Canning early,
- Nikitsky,
- Melitopol early and late,
- Alexander.
Apricot grows as large and wide trees. The Red-cheeked variety is very popular among summer residents. In the Fergana Valley (Uzbekistan), near the city of Isfara, an apricot grows 16 m high.
The trunk circumference is 3.8 m, the age of the tree is more than 150 years. But apricots can grow for 200 years or more and produce crops into old age. A tree growing in favorable conditions bears fruit annually and produces abundant harvests. The yield of individual trees reaches 700 kg. Even in the conditions of Mariupol, 18-20-year-old trees in favorable years produce a harvest of 100-120 kg of fruit.
Preparing the planting hole
First of all, you need to properly prepare the hole for planting the seedling. Thoroughly clear the ground of weeds and roots, dig well and level the soil. Carry out the soil preparation procedure several weeks before planting trees or in the fall.
The depth of the planting hole must be at least 75 cm, width - 60 cm. Be sure to place drainage at the bottom to prevent rotting of the roots. To strengthen the seedling and help it more easily take root in a new place, drive a wooden stake about 60 cm long next to the hole, which will become an additional support.
We must not forget about fertilizing the soil - mix 2 buckets of rotted manure with the fertile layer. You can also add mineral fertilizers. If the pit is prepared in the fall, use phosphorus and potassium; when planting in spring, add nitrogen. Be sure to neutralize acidic soil using dolomite flour (1 bucket per 1 sq. m) or lime.
Storing seedlings in winter
To preserve an apricot seedling until spring, you can use several overwintering methods:
- In a cellar or garage, seedlings can be stored at temperatures from 0 to +10 ºC. Be sure to moisten the roots and place them in a container previously filled with sawdust, peat or sand. Approximately once a week, additionally moisten the container.
- Snowing helps preserve seedlings until spring and prevent their death. First, keep the seedlings in water for about 5 hours and remove all the leaves. In the garden, choose the snowiest area where the sun practically does not reach. Prepare a hole and pour some snow into it. Place the seedlings in burlap (you can use agrofibre) and place them in a hole. Place a layer of snow about 20 cm thick on top, then place sawdust of the same thickness. In this way, seedlings can be stored until spring, until the time comes for planting.
- Bury the seedlings in the ground in an inclined position, the top of which should face south. In the direction from west to east, dig a ditch that is not too deep (there should be a vertical north wall). Remove all leaves from the seedlings, then treat with liquid clay and sprinkle with earth. Place the apricot trees in the ditch at a short distance from each other. Cover the seedlings with soil approximately 20 cm above the root collar, then lightly compact the soil with a shovel. A second row of seedlings can be placed on top. With the first frost, sprinkle the ground with sawdust or dry soil, forming a mound.
Possible mistakes
The most common mistakes made when planting and caring for apricots are incorrect application of fertilizers and pruning while the plant is dormant. If the gardener has chosen compost, manure or chicken droppings as fertilizer, then apply them with caution. Compost is added to the soil according to the formula 5.5-6 kg per square meter. m, mixed with mineral fertilizers.
Manure, like other organic fertilizers, is applied no more than 2-3 times a year at the rate of 3.5-4.5 kg per square meter. m. It should also not be concentrated.
Chicken manure is added as an admixture to the compost with a total mass of about 300 g per square meter. m. If you introduce concentrated droppings or simply dilute it with water, you can cause a chemical burn to the tree. Among the most common mistakes are:
- Insufficient level of agricultural technology. It is necessary to provide the tree with timely watering and fertilizing.
- Improperly organized nutrition plan. For example, a lack of microelements or a violation of NPK.
- Lack of preparation for winter.
- Incorrect trimming.
Compliance with all planting rules and apricot care features allows you to grow a strong and healthy tree. And after just a few years, you can enjoy delicious, juicy and aromatic fruits from your own garden.
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