Spring pruning of grapes: technique, shaping and other subtleties

Why is spring pruning necessary?

Grapes are a sun-loving plant; they always reach for the sun. It constantly appears new shoots, shoots grow continuously, randomly and unevenly. Why pruning is needed:

• Formation of quality buds. If the shoots grow chaotically and unevenly, the buds are weak and sparse. They produce few inflorescences, many of which are empty flowers.
• Improving the taste of berries. Good buds produce powerful inflorescences, which produce large grapes with a rich taste.
• The vine is formed and excess shoots are removed . The plant tries to direct nutrients to young shoots. When there is an excess of intensively growing branches on the bush, the plant lacks strength to form fruits - all its strength goes into the growth of shoots.

If you skip spring pruning of grapes:

• bushes become overgrown;
• the grapes will become smaller every year;
• the bushes will eventually go wild and lose their varietal characteristics.

Pruning is a mandatory measure to renew the bush and ensure a high yield of berries.

Inexperienced gardeners often regret cutting off excess - they think that by cutting off branches, they are deprived of the harvest. In addition, pruned bushes look rather pathetic at first. The essence of pruning is to provide access to the sun's rays to the top and bottom of the vine.

Did the bushes freeze during winter?

First, check the condition of your kidneys. Make cuts on the eyes, moving from the base of the branch to the top: if the buds are green, then they are healthy. But a black or dark brown color indicates damage. Count the damaged buds and calculate what percentage of the total volume of the buds they make up.

If less than 80% of the buds die, leave a larger number of buds on the fruit links than with normal formation. The harvest can also be obtained from additional shoots on the fruiting branches that you left during autumn pruning.

If annual shoots have been frostbitten or more than 80% of the buds on the bush have died, two-stage sanitary pruning will help. Before the buds bloom, remove frozen shoots and damaged sleeves. When greenery appears, complete the sanitary pruning by removing unnecessary growth.

If 100% of the kidneys are affected, check the condition of the stepchildren - they are more frost-resistant and have a better chance of surviving the winter. If the buds of the stepsons are also dead, try to form fruiting links from shoots (shoots developing from the underground part of the trunk) or tops (fatifying shoots of a grape bush growing from buds on perennial branches).

Look at how the core is colored when cut: its bright green color indicates the good condition of the shoot, slightly browned color indicates minor damage. But shoots with a dark brown core need to be removed.

When the entire above-ground part of the bush dies, a cut is made “to the black head”. To do this, dig the bush to a depth of 25-30 cm and cut off the entire above-ground part above the healthy node. Then cover the stump with earth (5 cm layer), and soon young shoots will begin to grow from the trunk. Leave the strongest ones and remove the excess growth. This will give you a new, healthy vine.

When are grapes pruned?

The timing of pruning grapes depends on a number of factors:

• varieties;
• age of the bush;
• cultivation option;
• climate.

Grapes are pruned in spring:

• early and mid-season;
• with low frost resistance;
• young, with unformed bushes;
• sheltered for the winter.

Spring pruning begins under the following conditions:

1. Active sap flow has not begun. If pruning is carried out later, the open sections will begin to exude molasses, and this process cannot be stopped. The bush, losing its life-giving juice, weakens. As a result, the vine grows worse.
   

   If you carry out spring pruning after the start of sap flow, you can not only lose the harvest, but also completely lose the grape bushes.

2. The air temperature is set at 5-6˚С.
3. Pruning should be done before the buds enlarge. If the buds begin to grow, you are too late!

Formation of grape bushes

There are a huge variety of options for forming a grapevine. Let's focus on the simplest and most understandable form - shoots to grow not vertically, but horizontally.

Video – Grapes Bush pruning

Tools for cutting

For trimming you will need:

• Secateurs - if a young vineyard is being pruned.
• Powerful garden pruner used for cutting branches of fruit trees. Such a tool is necessary for the rejuvenating removal of thick perennial branches.
• Hacksaw. To remove any thickened branches.

Tool before use:

• Sharpening.
• Wipe with alcohol.

In the video, an experienced gardener shows how to properly sharpen a grape pruning tool:

Basic rules for pruning

It is important to consider the age of the bushes. Rules for spring pruning of grapes:

1. The cut is made at an angle of 90 degrees - so that the open cut heals faster. At a right angle, an open wound will heal faster.
2. Eliminate branches:
   sick;
3. frozen over the winter;
4. received other damage.

At this stage, the cutting pattern is not taken into account.

1. Excessively elongated shoots are shortened - so that they develop and form correctly, 7-12 buds are left on them.
2. Shoots that bear fruit in the past season are cut off carefully, so as not to break them at the base. The shoots are cut off at a distance of 1.5 cm from the perennial branch.
3. To make replacement possible, shoots must be kept close to the main trunk.
4. Leave shoots with a diameter of 5-7 mm. Branches outside this range are pruned.

Thick shoots with a diameter of more than 10 mm are called fattening shoots - they interfere with fruiting, so they need to be removed.

When the pruning is finished, the bush looks bald at first, but after a little time it will become lush green. Young shoots, having quickly formed, will put out inflorescences - the source of the future harvest.

Pruning not only allows you to form young bushes, but also restore neglected or frozen ones. Grapes are known for their vitality - they are ready to be reborn again and again, the main thing is to take the chance correctly.

A viticulture specialist explains in a video how to properly carry out spring pruning:

How to properly prune grapes in spring

Most gardeners prefer to prune old grapes in the spring, for example, immediately after removing the winter shelter and attaching the vines to an arched structure or support.

Note: Some winegrowers prefer to form bushes in the fall, when the buds begin to prepare for winter and the development of the crop slows down. This partly makes sense, but in the spring you will still have to pay attention to the bushes, at least by carrying out sanitary cleaning.

Spring pruning of covered and uncovered grapes has its advantages:

1. Thinning the crown will help increase crop yields this season by 60-80%.
2. Spring pruning helps increase the frost resistance of bushes, which is especially important when cultivating grapes in temperate and cold climates.
3. By thinning the crown, pollination of the crop improves, the quality of the crop increases, and the plant itself is much less likely to be affected by fungal diseases and pests.
4. Reducing the number of shoots helps to adjust the distribution of nutrients, since they will be spent not on growing green mass, but on the formation of fruits.

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In addition, observing the optimal timing of spring pruning allows you to form a crown of the required shape and size, which is especially important for those who plan to grow grapes in small areas.

A description of the procedure would be incomplete without information about its disadvantages. First of all, spring pruning often causes stress in the bushes, and their development slows down for some time. Given this feature, it is better to carry out the procedure on adult healthy bushes. In addition, if pruning was carried out after the start of sap flow, there is a high probability of dehydration of the bush.

To reduce possible harm from the procedure, you need to know how to properly prune grapes in the spring:

1. The cuts must be placed at right angles to speed up the healing process.
2. Regardless of the purpose of pruning, you should be sure to remove all frozen, damaged shoots or branches with signs of disease.
3. Pruning is considered correct, after which 7-12 buds remain on the bush.
4. If you are pruning an old bush with annual shoots, the latter should be shortened very carefully so that the height of the stump is no more than 0.5 cm.
5. All shoots should be carefully inspected. It is advisable to leave only branches with a diameter of about 6 cm on the bushes. Thin or fattening shoots should be cut out.

Naturally, all manipulations should be carried out with sharp and disinfected garden tools. This way the cuts will be smooth and without burrs, and the resulting wound will heal quickly.

Types of pruning

During the first 3-4 years of life, grape bushes are pruned in order to form them correctly - branches are created that will bear the entire load. Bearing branches are formed in stages. You can form a bush using the following methods:

• standard;
• without standard.

In both cases you must comply with:

• recommended pruning pattern;
• timing of pruning;
• care requirements.

Standard and non-standard formation differ from each other in the following features:

• Standard pruning . The main stem is formed - the supporting branches of the grape bush extend from it. The stem has a height of 200-800 cm.
• Standardless pruning . The basal head emits several bearing branches - 2 or 4.

Standard trimming

This method of pruning is used if grapes are grown without shelter for the winter, for frost-resistant varieties grown in large volumes. Standard pruning is also used by winegrowers in warm climate zones.

Grape bushes that are well cared for grow for more than a hundred years.

The formation of the trunk is carried out in the first year of planting grapes. Performing standard pruning by year of life:

• First year . Top trimming. Leaving 2 buds after the root, rids the seedling of excess growth.
• Second. The stamp is not affected. Remove shoots that have grown over the past season. Having found the most powerful shoot, cut off its top so that 7 to 12 buds remain. One small shoot is left as a replacement - it is shortened to 2-3 eyes.
• Third. This year the height and shape of the trunk is formed. The shoots left earlier become load-bearing “sleeves” - they are reduced by 2 buds and then tied to supporting supports. Then the shoots left for the sake of reserve are shortened - 2 buds are removed from one (they are left as a replacement knot), 5-6 eyes are removed from the second.
• Fourth. The time has come to trim the upper “sleeves” and remove all unnecessary shoots - the bush is formed as the winegrower wishes.
• Fifth . Only the main branches forming the fruiting structure of the bush are left. All excess is cut off.
• Sixth. When forming a bush, 2 buds are cut off from the replacement knot, and the fruit shoot is shortened, leaving 7-8 buds.

Thanks to standard pruning, it is possible to obtain abundant harvests while economically using space.

Standardless pruning

This is a faster forming method. Three years are enough for properly growing grapes to produce an enviable harvest. The order of standardless pruning by year:

• First year. Remove shoots with damage and deformations. It is also necessary to remove 90% of the young growth. The remaining sprouts - 2 pieces, are cut off, leaving 2-3 cm after the 2nd bud.
• Second. This year, 60% of the growth is removed. Only 2 shoots should be left on the sprouts - the most powerful ones are chosen, since they will have to bear the load of the ripening bunches. Shortening should leave 2-3 buds on the shoots - many shoots will sprout here before autumn.
• Third . Stage of formation of fruit links. The lower vine is pruned by 2-3 buds, the upper vine (fruit shoot) by 7-10 buds. This is how load-bearing “sleeves” are formed - two vines are left for each of them, and all other shoots are removed.

In order for the grapes to delight you with harvests, it is important to follow the rule - when pruning, fruit-bearing shoots and 2 or 3 branches are left, which will later help renew the crown.

Technology for pruning grapes by age

In autumn, special attention should be paid to the formation of young grapes. It is important to correctly create a fruiting sleeve and enhance the growth of green mass in order to obtain a bountiful harvest in the future.

The first 3 years the grapes grow actively. There is no fruiting or only a signal cluster appears. During this time, with the help of proper pruning, the grapes are shaped, creating the desired sleeve size. Subsequently, they are cut according to the chosen pattern.

First year

The first year is almost completely cut off. 3–4 buds and a stump are preserved. Shoots will appear from them in the spring. To protect from rain, grapes are pruned at an angle of 45°.

Second year

If a one-year-old seedling was not pruned in the autumn, then in the spring 2 shoots with 4–5 buds are left on the trunk.

In October, the vines that have grown from the two remaining eyes are pruned to:

• fruiting arrow, retaining 7–10 buds;
• replacement knot, leaving 3 eyes.

Third year

In the fall, after the first frost, three-year-old grapes are pruned. The scheme is simple. The fruiting branch is removed completely. They will preserve shoots that have grown from replacement knots. The top ones are cut to 6–8 buds. They will bear fruit next season. Branches growing close to the ground are shortened by three internodes, forming replacement knots.

To avoid confusion, experienced gardeners advise sketching a grape pruning diagram for the 3rd year. The following autumn, the remaining stems are cut out and replaced with new ones grown from replacement knots.

Pruning fruiting grapes

Thanks to green operations on fruit-bearing grapes, it is possible to regulate the growth and yield of bushes. Sometimes you have to remove excess fruit-bearing shoots if the grape bush is overloaded.

Wreckage

The formation of a bush of debris is accelerated, errors made during pruning are eliminated. Improves ventilation and warming. Debris rules:

• Removing unnecessary shoots growing on the head and sleeves of the bush. The shoots are left for replacement and renewal. In varieties with uneven germination of shoots from dormant eyes, cutting is carried out twice.
• First of all, green shoots growing in the crowns are broken off.
• If the bushes are underloaded, debris is not needed.
• The cutting is done by breaking out the shoots down to the woody trunk.

Late cutting is done with pruning shears, but it harms the bush and weakens the plant.

Pinching stepsons

Young grassy shoots growing on the fruit shoot are pinched. Purposes of pinching stepchildren:

• accelerating the restoration of the leaf crown or skeleton;
• stopping the growth of shoots - to prevent shedding.

On underloaded bushes, pinch out vigorous shoots - several pieces, above the 3rd or 5th bud. The stepsons obtained after pinching can be used next year to form a fruit link.

An expert will tell you how to properly pincher grapes and how pinching affects yield in the following video:

Coinage

It is done to speed up the ripening of berries - while slowing down the growth of green shoots. Remove the retracted crowns, 4-7 buds at a time. Conditions for minting:

• irrigation;
• strong shoot growth;
• poor ripening.

If grapes are grown without watering, minting is not done. Also, it is not needed for low-growing varieties.

How to cover grapes for the winter in the middle zone

For many years I have been using the so-called dry method of covering grapes, and it has never let me down. However, before actually covering the vine, you need to remember to carry out a few more manipulations with it - watering, mulching, pruning and fertilizing.

Preparing grapes for winter begins with abundant watering. The fact is that dry soil, especially sandy soil, freezes faster and deeper, while saturated with water, especially to the depth of the heel roots, on the contrary, warms the underground parts of the plant, rising in the form of steam.

It should be taken into account that the roots of the European vine die already at –7°C. Underground moisture, coupled with mulching and shelter, makes it possible to maintain a positive temperature in the near-root zone.

Autumn watering of grapes is also important for the spring start of the growing season. I water my vines not on the ground, but through pipes buried to the level of the drainage layer. This is much safer for the vine, which does not like any type of sprinkling, and is also more effective, because... It is convenient to combine watering with fertilizing. In autumn it is superphosphate or ash solution. After the last autumn watering, the pipes must be plugged tightly.

The second thing that needs to be done after harvesting the grapes is to cut off all fruit-bearing and green unripe shoots. The latter will still overwinter poorly or not survive at all. They are noticeably different from mature brown shoots, which radiate warmth to the touch even in the cold, and when bent they make a slight cracking sound, but do not break, because... managed to stock up on plastic substances. These vines are ready for wintering.

The main thing is to arrange the right “bed” for the wintering grapes. I tie the vines removed from the trellis and trimmed into loose bundles, or fascines, and lay them on previously prepared spruce branches. An important detail: the vine must be laid the way it is formed or as it “asks”, i.e. do not bend it against the direction of growth. It may be possible to do this, but the bend will freeze in winter, and the plant will most likely die.

Spring pruning of damaged bushes

If the grapes are frozen over the winter, there is a good chance of restoring the plant. At least partially. Let's consider a method of restorative pruning after various damages.

The bushes are frozen

First, check the condition of the kidneys by making incisions on them:

• green color indicates kidney health;
• black and dark brown - about damage.

The cuts are made moving from the base to the top of the branch. By counting the dead eyes, the amount of damage is calculated. Depending on the damage, take the following actions:

• If the death rate was less than 80%, leave more buds during formation than provided for in the scheme. An additional harvest is obtained thanks to shoots on fruit-bearing branches left during autumn pruning.
• If more than 80% have died, sanitary pruning is needed in two stages. Before the buds open, remove frozen branches and damaged supporting sleeves. When greenery appears, sanitary pruning is completed by removing excess growth.
• If the damage is 100%, the stepsons are checked - being more frost-resistant, they more often survive the winter. If the buds on the stepsons have also died, you can form fruit-bearing links from young shoots or fattening shoots growing from buds on perennial branches.

Frostbite of the root system

In frosty winters with little snow, part of the grape root system is damaged or dies. Necessary actions:

1. They dig up the ground at the will of the bush.
2. Root cuts are made. The sections of undamaged roots are white, while those of frostbitten roots are dark brown. If the frostbite diameter of the roots is up to 2.5 mm, the vine will recover next year. The main task of the gardener is to reduce the load on the root system by cutting off the fruiting branches short.

Spring hail

If there was hail in the spring and the bushes lost a lot of foliage, young shoots are pruned to 1-2 buds. Then shoots will appear, which are thinned out - this is done to activate the reserve buds, which will bear fruit the next year.

Cold snap

Frosts often occur in the spring just as the buds are opening. They can not only destroy new buds and shoots, but also a one-year-old vine. Further actions depend on the degree of damage caused:

• The vine is damaged. It is recommended to cut last year's branches short to stimulate the growth of other shoots - then the dormant buds will awaken.
• If frosts have damaged the green part and flowers, to awaken dormant buds you need to shorten the annual shoots - this will help partially restore the harvest.
• If the tops of the branches are damaged, as well as a small part of the leaves and inflorescences, you can do without special pruning.

When can you get started?

When is the best time to prune the grapes, the winegrower himself decides. The timing depends on the weather and the region where the crop is grown. Pruning too early deprives the vines of the opportunity to fully prepare for winter.

The process of photosynthesis continues throughout the plant's dormant period. Due to this, nutrients accumulate in the roots, so necessary for successful wintering. Therefore, bushes are pruned after leaf fall.

There is another important reason not to rush into pruning: the vine needs to be hardened off. This happens at low negative temperatures. But the pruning process itself requires heat above 0°, since frozen vines are more fragile and brittle.

Note: damage to broken shoots heals much worse than damage done with a sharp knife.

In the middle zone and in the Moscow region, the first stage begins in September: all green, non-lignified parts are cut out - they cannot survive the winter even with the most perfect shelter. In Siberia, the Urals, and northern regions, this procedure is carried out in the last ten days of August.

Timing of main grape pruning by region:

The weather sometimes makes adjustments to these dates, shifting them in one direction or another. If the average daily temperature has approached +5 degrees (and has stabilized at this level), it’s time to start pruning the vineyard.

Read: 8 rules for when and how to prune raspberries correctly

Arch trimming

For arches, frost-resistant grape varieties are chosen, since the branches are not covered for the winter. The trimming scheme is selected taking into account:

• features of supports;
• characteristics of the variety.

Pruning arched grapes is no different from pruning bushes tied on a trellis. Arched grapes are distinguished by abundant fruiting, incomparable with harvests obtained on trellises.

If you have a warm climate, you can plant the Original and Svetly varieties, since they are not frost-resistant, but they grow very quickly - in 1-2 months, even with heavy spring pruning they cover the entire arch with greenery. It is recommended to trim the fruit shoots to 10-12 buds.

If you need an uncovered frost-resistant variety, it is better to take the Timur, Arochny, Talisman varieties - these are vigorous varieties that are resistant to disease. The formation of bushes is carried out together with the construction of the arch:

• the first wire of the arch is placed at a distance of 50 cm from the ground;
• further - at intervals of 30-40 cm.

When shoots appear, only one is left - all the others are cut out. A standard is formed from the left shoot. A shoot that has grown to the first wire produces two shoots. The person’s task is to leave the stepsons and form the sleeves – left and right. At a distance of 2 m, two more sleeves are laid. Trimming rules:

• Fruit vines are laid along the sleeve and cut to a certain number of eyes - it depends on the variety. From each left bud a shoot grows. The bush is formed using fruit shoots.
• The vine that has finished bearing fruit is removed along with the growth. The top vine, grown on a replacement knot, is placed in the vacant space. The lower replacement shoot is shortened by two buds.

Cordon scheme for grape formation

The cordon pruning scheme for grape bushes shows lower yields than the previous forming option. However, in harsh conditions, this is still an opportunity to get your own harvest, stock up on energy for the plant and safely survive the winter. This principle of forming a grape bush is also called short-sleeved.

Cordon scheme for grape formation

1st year

The formation of a bush according to the cordon pattern begins with forcing an annual vine. In autumn, when the temperature drops to -2...-4 ºС, the remaining foliage is removed from the shoot, the unripe tip is cut off and bent to the ground, laid on a substrate and covered for the winter. (Fig.11)

2nd year

In early spring, the vine that has overwintered under cover is opened and pruned, leaving two buds above the surface of the ground. Two sleeves will be formed from these buds. As they develop in summer, they are carefully bent in the desired direction (parallel to the ground). In autumn, the bush is covered for wintering. (Fig.12)

3rd year

In spring, the vines are shortened by 8-10 buds. (Fig. 13) During the summer, fruiting vines and shoots of future branches will grow from them (they are located in the center of the bush, closer to its head), as well as wen (vines without clusters).

The formation of a bush according to the cordon pattern begins with forcing an annual vine

The vine that has overwintered under cover is opened and pruned, leaving two buds above the surface of the ground.

In spring, the vines are shortened by 8-10 buds

At the beginning of June, fattening shoots are removed. (Fig. 14) In the fall, the fruit-bearing branches are cut off, along with the sleeves on which they are located, leaving only two vines located closest to the head of the bush. (Fig.15)

For the winter, the two vines left are bent and covered. Early in the spring of next year they are pruned to 8-10 buds. Then the scheme is repeated.

At the beginning of June, fattening shoots are removed

In autumn, fruit-bearing branches are cut off, along with the sleeves.

A cordon uniform may have not 2, but 4 sleeves. (Fig. 16) In this case, the first harvest will be obtained only in the 4th year, since the formation will take a year longer, but its quantity will be more significant.

A cordon uniform may have not 2, but 4 sleeves

Sometimes a short-sleeve shaping pattern is also used in the middle zone. However, in this case, a larger number of buds are left on the sleeves, up to 14-15, in order to prevent underloading of the bush.

Popular methods of shaping grapes

The formation process begins 1-2 years after planting the seedlings, and it lasts from 3 to 6 years - depending on the chosen modeling method. The process is completed when the bush and vine pattern appears and full fruiting is achieved.

Guyot's scheme

Used in cold regions for covering grapes. Considered a classic of the genre. This simple method allows you to cover the entire bush with sun. Suitable for beginner gardeners. Guyot's scheme:

1. In the first year, a strong shoot is grown. It is pruned in the fall, leaving 2-3 eyes.
2. In the second year, two shoots grow, they are pruned in the fall - 2-3 buds are left on one, the second is left long - the clusters will ripen on it.
3. After a year, a twig and a vine will grow from the twig again.

The fruiting vine is formed using imagination and the load of the bush is adjusted. By changing the length of the arrows, the size of the bunches changes.

Fan formation

The most popular option when modeling bushes. It differs from the Guyot scheme in the large number of sleeves - there are 3-5 of them, not 1-2. Different fan formations can be performed:

• big or small;
• with short or long sleeves;
• standard or non-standard;
• one- and two-sided;
• single and double tier.

In cold conditions, the standardless version is more often used - a fan and a one-sided half-fan. Its advantages:

• convenient to care for bushes;
• convenient to cover;
• easy to carry out rejuvenation;
• The berries will be obtained with excellent taste properties.

The procedure for forming a bush with a fan:

1. The first two years of operation are no different from the previous method.
2. In the third year, sleeves are made - 2 vines are formed on each of them. By the third year the bush bears fruit, producing at least 4 shoots - they grow up to 1 m in length and 6-10 mm in thickness.
3. The first tying is done in the spring. The sleeves are tied to the bottom wire (30-60 cm from the ground), forming a “fan”.
4. In the spring, the shoots are pruned, making them shorter inside the fan than outside.
5. While growth is underway, annual shoots are constantly removed from the sleeves, leaving 2-3 at the top - they are needed to form new fruiting links and lengthen the sleeves. The garter to the trellis is performed vertically.
6. For 4-5 years, fruit links are created on the sleeves. To form the arrow that forms the fruit, cut the upper vine by 4-6 buds, and cut the lower vine by 2-3 buds.

Timing for pruning grapes

Pruning and formation of the bush begins in the first year after planting the grape seedlings. The main pruning is carried out in the fall after the end of the growing season and leaf fall.

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When pruning grapes in the spring, even before the start of the “crying” sap flow, they carry out normalized additional pruning of the vines, cutting out all the unnecessary shoots that “overload” the bush. During the period of bud opening (at the end of May), sleeves 30-50 cm long are formed with a fragment of the lower blossomed eyes, 4-5 blossomed buds are left above, and the rest of the shoot is then cut off.

Cutting off excess growing shoots is a mandatory operation; it regulates the load of the bush. It is important to remove excess shoots in a timely manner, when few nutrients have been spent on the growth of the removed shoots. After the “green” debris, no more than 12-15 shoots should remain on a three- to four-year-old fruit-bearing grape bush, which will correspond to the power of the root system.

In July, an important technique is to remove stepsons and top shoots. Pruning is carried out twice every 10-15 days, and the axillary shoots are not completely removed, but are pinched over the second or third leaf. The left parts of the stepsons (hemp) prevent the growth of new ones and contribute to better nutrition of the growing fruit-bearing shoots and the filling of grape bunches.

Care after pruning

The larger the cutting diameter, the greater the danger. The plant weakens after repeated pruning, and even its death is possible. To keep the damage to a minimum, you need to:

• use sharp pruners;
• remove branches with a diameter of 2-8 cm using a bow saw, and cut old branches with a hacksaw;
• try to ensure that the cuts are located on one side - then food will flow to all branches;
• the stumps of thick branches should be less than 1 cm. Otherwise, they will crack and damage the integrity of the wood.

To mitigate the damage caused, it is recommended:

• Clean the wounds with a garden knife. This helps prevent water from accumulating on the cuts - fungus can penetrate through it, causing rot.
• Regularly loosen the soil within a radius of 40-60 cm from the bushes.
• Weed, water and feed plants in a timely manner.
• Treat plants against diseases and pests in a timely manner.
• When the shoots reach a length of 25 cm, bend them down and tie them to supports.

Pruning grapes in autumn for beginners in pictures and easy video instructions

Vine plants are by nature vigorous vines and only by pruning can they be forced to produce a harvest. What it will be: large or small, with sweet hard berries or soft and sour - also directly depends on the correct pruning. As part of today's review, we will show how to properly prune grapes in the fall for beginners in pictures.

Along the way, we’ll look at why autumn pruning is better than spring pruning, what tools we need, what technologies exist for forming a bush and pruning.

Why do you need to prune grapes?

Pruning grapes has a complex effect on the physiological processes occurring inside the plant. Hence the importance of this procedure. Under the influence of pruning, there is mainly a redistribution of growth hormones and physiologically active substances responsible for the reproduction and formation of seeds, and therefore the harvest. Under the influence of pruning, the following occurs in the grape bush:

• inhibition of vegetative growth and activation of generative (fruit) tissues;
• primary regulation of the bush's load on the crop;
• regulation of water consumption;
• regulation of the ratio of aboveground and underground biological mass of the bush.

As you can see, the manipulation of pruning entails serious changes inside the plant at the physiological and biochemical level, which is why it is so important to learn how to prune correctly. A video tutorial for beginners will help you master autumn pruning of grapes.

When to prune grapes in the fall

Careful attention and observation of the development of your grape bush will definitely tell you when to prune the grapes in the fall. There are several points to pay attention to:

• The shoots should complete their development and become covered with brown bark.
• It is desirable that the leaves acquire an autumn color (yellow or red, depending on the variety. It is good if some of the leaves have already fallen off on their own.
• Average daily air temperature. Note the air temperatures during the day and at night. The arithmetic average of the sum of these temperatures will tell you when to start pruning. If this value is below 5o C, then it’s time to prune the bushes.

Choose a time for pruning when you feel comfortable doing so. Hands should not freeze from frost. Be sure to watch the video for beginners on how to prune grapes in the fall.

Why autumn pruning is better than spring pruning

For a number of reasons, autumn pruning of grapes is preferable to spring:

• In autumn, growth processes are suspended, which means that growth substances that might already be in the shoots will not be consumed.
• There is no danger that the moment of pruning will coincide with the “spring crying” of the grapes and the bush will lose a lot of water.
• When pruning in spring, it is possible to break off tender buds that begin to grow.

Preparing the bush for pruning

You should think about how your favorite grape bush will winter and prepare it for autumn pruning in advance, at the beginning of August. At this time, the shoots should be chased, which consists of shortening their tops above the top wire of the trellis. In addition, regular removal of stepchildren will seriously reduce the cost of your time and effort at the time of autumn pruning.

Common Mistakes

When pruning grapes, inexperienced gardeners often make the following mistakes:

• When sparing the plant, they do not cut off the growth, but only shorten the tops and remove dry shoots. After a few years, the vine will intertwine so that it obscures the sun - the fruit-bearing branches will not receive additional energy, and the fruits will be small and tasteless.
• Shoots are cut to the wrong length. In spring, you need to take into account that the length of the cut part is determined by the thickness of the shoot. The thicker the vine, the longer its length after pruning.
• Thinking that thick vines yield more yields, gardeners harvest young vines instead.

Thanks to proper and timely pruning, grape bushes will produce abundant harvests. And the berries that ripen in clusters will be juicy, large, and rich in flavor.

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Pros and cons of pruning grapes in the fall

There are several advantages to pruning grapes in the fall. First of all, this makes it easier for the plant to overwinter: the crown may simply not fit under the shelter.

But after pruning in the spring, juice is released strongly from the stem, which leads to a decrease in yield and sometimes even the death of the bush. Also, autumn pruning stimulates early bud break in the spring. Because of this, the crop ripens faster, which is important for cold regions.

The downside is the likelihood of the cutting area freezing if the grapes were pruned in late autumn. Because of this, the upper parts of the shoots may dry out. If there are frequent frosts in the spring, then early bud development may also become a problem.

Dates

The time at which the grapes are pruned is important. This can affect the yield and even the viability of the bush.

General guidelines

Autumn pruning is performed only after natural leaf fall. If this is done earlier, the bush does not have time to absorb all the useful elements from the leaves. If the time has already come, and the leaves are still on the stems, then you should tear them off with your hands or trim them with pruning shears.

The best period for pruning is after the first frost. During this period, the vine is actively ripening, the leaves turn yellow (this indicates that useful elements have passed into the stems). Attention! Pruning too early results in young shoots not being able to mature. Too late pruning can cause the shoots to become brittle.

By region

The timing of pruning grapes is determined by the climatic characteristics of the specific growing zone and weather conditions:

• In the South, pruning is done in late autumn, 3 weeks after leaf fall. At positive temperatures, work is carried out even in winter.
• Approximate dates for autumn pruning of grapes for the Middle Zone: late October - early November.
• Residents of Moscow and the Moscow region should focus on the end of November.
• In the Leningrad region, grape pruning can be done a little earlier, in early October.
• The same timing is suitable for the Urals.
• But in the northern regions this procedure can be carried out as early as the end of September.

Lucky dates according to the lunar calendar 2019

The lunar calendar is a good help for all gardeners. Since ancient times, people have determined by the Moon when it is best to sow, weed, fertilize, harvest, and trim trees and bushes. Regarding grape pruning in 2022, the following days are distinguished:

• in September - 4, 5, 6, 24, 25 (favorable), 1, 2, 9–11, 16–21, 27–29 (unfavorable);
• in October - 2, 3, 21, 22, 29–31 (favorable), 6–8, 15–18, 25–27 (unfavorable);
• in November - 17–19, 26, 27 (favorable), 2–4, 13, 14, 21–23, 25 (unfavorable).

Step-by-step pruning instructions + diagrams for beginners

Before pruning, you need to understand the structure of the grape bush. A sleeve is a perennial fragment of a bush, or old wood. A fruiting shoot, or fruit shoot, is a long vine that has 6–10 buds. Shoots grow on them, on which fruits are formed.

A replacement knot is a short vine that is preserved for further fruiting. The eye unites the kidneys and ensures their normal development.

Young grapes: diagram and video

If the grapes are planted in the spring, then in the fall it is time for the first pruning. The shoot should be shortened, keeping 3-4 eyes. If the seedling has two shoots, then the same pruning is performed.

Some experts say that it is better to play it safe and leave 6–10 eyes in the fall, and shorten them to 3–4 in the spring. Otherwise, in winter the vine may die due to insufficient resistance to frost.

Second or third year grapes

In the case of correct primary pruning in the fall, 4–5 shoots are left in the second year, which will then become sleeves. The bush cannot look like a fan of 6–8 small shoots; it is better if there are 4 of them, and those that are weakened and going in the wrong direction should be cut out.

Each of the shoots is truncated into 3–4 eyes. This way they will have the optimal length and will not protrude beyond the edges of the bottom wire of the trellis to which they are tied. It is better to always leave a reserve, because in the spring you can adjust the bush and remove all that is unnecessary.

In the autumn of the 3rd year, the bush has 4 strong sleeves with new shoots. On each sleeve, the largest shoots are selected, and the weakened ones are cut out. 2 powerful shoots are retained, the lower one is reduced by 3 eyes to form a replacement knot. The second shoot remains with 6–10 buds.

To be on the safe side, you can save 2 large fruit shoots and remove the weaker one in the spring. After 3 years, the bush is completely formed, which will continue to bear fruit.

Mature grapes

Typically, an adult bush has 4–5 sleeves. It is necessary to trim each sleeve separately. First, all unnecessary weak shoots and fruit-bearing vines from the past year are removed. Of all the shoots, 2 strong ones are left, and 1 for a replacement knot (for this, the lower shoot is cut into 3 buds). On the 2 remaining shoots, 6–10 eyes are kept, the excess part is removed.

If there are only 2 shoots on the sleeve, then they should be left until spring. If both survive, then the lower one can be cut off into a replacement branch, and the upper one can be left for fruiting. The same procedure is done with the remaining sleeves.

Old grapes: video for beginners on pruning in autumn + diagrams describing the work

After many years, the grapes become very thick. To carry out rejuvenation, the trunk is cut at a height of 35–50 cm, and future sleeves are formed from young shoots. If the shoot is suitable for a fruit shoot, then a vine no thicker than 7–9 mm is selected, and 3–4 buds and a replacement knot are kept on it. Only in the 3rd year is it possible to form a full-fledged bush again.

If you remove the entire old bush, the lower eyes on the stumps and trunk begin to awaken. During spring and summer, these buds gain strength and grow to 1.5–2 m in height. You can create a new bush in a short time and get a harvest.