Planting tomatoes under film with seedlings: planting time, planting rules

When can you open tomatoes in open ground? When to remove temporary shelter

Bad weather and cold climatic conditions do not prevent gardeners in all regions of the country from growing tomatoes. Most often, in areas with an unfavorable climate, they are planted in greenhouses. But even if for some reason there is no greenhouse on the site, you can grow tomatoes in open ground, providing them with temporary shelter when the temperature drops.

Preparing the seat

For more convenient installation of temporary shelter, a two-row tomato planting scheme is used. They can be located opposite each other (ribbon pattern) or in a checkerboard pattern.

Thus, it is necessary to create a bed up to 1 m wide and dig planting holes so that the distance between them is 25...40 cm, depending on the variety being grown (for bushy determinate varieties, the recommended value is 35...40 cm), row spacing is narrow - about 40 cm .

If tomatoes are planted in several beds, the distance between them will be about 0.5 m.

Planting tomato seedlings

Tomato planting is carried out in accordance with the chosen scheme. In this case, the seedlings can be buried in order to obtain a powerful root system, but the fruiting period will come later. It is recommended to plant in the evening if the day is sunny, and in rainy, cloudy weather, on the contrary, in the morning.

Actions after landing

After the tomato seedlings are in place, they are watered and a temporary shelter is installed: metal arcs are driven in, covering material is pulled over them and secured.

Film is most often used for tomatoes after planting. It transmits sunlight well.

In the event of sudden cold snaps, thick non-woven white material (number 60) is first pulled over the arc frame, and a film is additionally laid on it.

In the future, during hot weather, temporary shelters are also used to create shade on the tomatoes, but film should never be used - the plants will burn! On hot days, spunbond will provide them with protection.

For 4...5 days after planting, the tomatoes are not ventilated or watered. After this adaptation period, care for the seedlings begins in full: systematic watering, timely feeding (the first of which is carried out 1.5 weeks after planting), shaping, etc.

Proper planting of seedlings will allow you to quickly install temporary shelters in the future if necessary.

Reviews from gardeners

Lyudmila, Rostov

First, the small greenhouse is covered with double spunbond or spunbond + a layer of film, then, as it gets warmer, one layer is removed. In this case, the large greenhouse is already covered with film. The seedlings are smaller than those sold on the market, but after planting in permanent places they grow quite quickly and bear fruit.

Source: forum.grodno.net

Love, Zhukovsky

I plant my tomatoes as seedlings on March 20, and transplant them into the greenhouse on May 9. In each hole I add about a tablespoon of fertilizer for tomatoes and peppers “Malyshok” and half a glass of ash.

Source: www.forumhouse.ru

When can temporary shelters be opened?

Protective structures can be removed when conditions favorable for this arise on the site - the air temperature, even at night, will not drop below +150C. If the weather is good during the day, but at night it is still too cold, then it is recommended to ventilate the tomatoes during the daytime: in the greenhouse - through the windows and doors, and open the film covers from the ends or even throw the protective material to one side (in the evening it is convenient to return it to its original place ).

In outskirts of Moscow

. Temporary shelters in the Moscow region are usually left until July, since the beginning of summer in this region is accompanied by constant rains and cold snaps.

In the Urals

. The Ural weather in summer is extremely changeable, so plantings are left under cover until mid-July. At the same time, we must not forget about daytime ventilation in good weather, since tomatoes do not tolerate high humidity.

In Siberia

. At the end of June, favorable weather in this region will allow you to remove the covers from the tomatoes, but you should not remove them too far. If necessary, temporary shelters are installed back.

A sharp change in environmental conditions when removing temporary shelter can provoke a stressful state of seedlings. There are several rules, the implementation of which will greatly facilitate the process of their adaptation:

1. After removing the cover, the seedlings must be well watered.
2. You need to remove the shelter in cloudy weather, as they can easily burn in the sun.
3. By the time the cover is removed, the plants should be hardened off. To do this, they are hardened at the seedling stage, and in the shelter the tomatoes are intensively ventilated, opening both ends of the structure.

If you open temporary shelters taking into account the above nuances and weather conditions in the region, there will be no loss in the number of planted plants.

Various landing methods

Today there are several ways to plant tomatoes that differ from traditional ones. These include:

Kazarin's method. Involves minimal or virtually no watering. The essence of the method is to form a powerful root by growing in search of moisture. Planting of seedlings occurs at an angle, almost horizontally. In this case, half of the seedling must be placed in the ground. There is no need to lift the upper part, it will rise on its own over time and then tie it to a peg. Watering is done as follows: half a bucket into the hole before and after planting. Subsequent watering - once every 14-16 days.

Planting tomatoes using the Kazarin method

Grafting method. Provides for the development of a more powerful root. Two tomato seedlings of the same variety are planted in one pot, 5 cm apart. When the trunks reach 0.5 cm in diameter, they must be pulled towards each other. Make cuts (0.2 mm) at the contact points and bandage. The bandage needs to be sprayed daily. After two weeks, cut off one of the tops. Remove the bandage before disembarking.

Landing of stepchildren. As the tomatoes grow in the greenhouse, do not throw away the shoots, but plant them in separate holes. You will need to water and shade them for 5 days. Once every 10 days, fertilize with mineral, organic and micronutrients (alternating). It is believed that such tomatoes are less susceptible to disease.

Growing tomatoes

Attention! Tomatoes are one of the few plants that can easily tolerate short periods of drought. If there is no other possibility, they will need plenty of watering once a week.

Types of covering materials

The method of growing tomatoes under film or covering material is used in the southern regions and in the middle zone; it is also quite suitable for the Moscow region. Plants in open ground need shelter because:

• the soil freezes quickly;
• it is necessary to protect them from direct rays of the sun;
• there are climatic conditions that do not correspond to the culture;
• there is a lack of heat.

There are many types of covering material of different types and qualities on sale: film, glass, polycarbonate, acrylic for greenhouses, reinforced film and a modern development - spunbond (agrofibre). The main selection criterion should be its ability to retain heat

It is also important to consider:

• reliability;
• ability to protect from sunlight;
• ease of use.

Important! Plants should be covered when the weather worsens, the air temperature drops, and during periods of prolonged rain. The film is common because it is inexpensive and easy to use, but it is not very reliable

A film greenhouse can deteriorate in one winter. Despite this, many gardeners still cover crops with it. But the reinforced film will perfectly perform its function in any climate

Film is common because it is inexpensive and easy to use, but it is not very reliable. A film greenhouse can deteriorate in one winter. Despite this, many gardeners still cover crops with it. But the reinforced film will perfectly perform its function in any climate.

Sometimes glass is used for shelter in greenhouses, but it must be thick enough. With the advent of modern materials, this method is abandoned, because glass is short-lived, can easily crack if it is not thick enough, does not attach well to the metal frame of the greenhouse and does not provide sufficient protection from direct rays of the sun.

Polycarbonate

Nowadays, a modern and practical material is used for greenhouses - polycarbonate. It is better to buy it with a cellular type of covering, so that direct sunlight is evenly distributed over the covering, which has a good effect on planting.

Polycarbonate greenhouse

Polycarbonate does not change shape and does not collapse under any climatic conditions, reliably retains heat and does not let cold air flow through, is easy to install and does not absorb moisture. The disadvantages include the high price of this type of shelter.

Acrylic

More recently, they began to grow tomatoes under acrylic, a new covering material. It perfectly protects plantings from low temperatures, while being non-toxic and safe. Acrylic is lighter than glass, durable and flexible. Its positive qualities have already been appreciated by many gardeners

When growing tomatoes under acrylic, it is important to ventilate the greenhouse during the day, because the temperature there rises quite high, and to cover it at night

This covering material has the following advantages:

• the ability to transmit approximately 90% of sunlight, which has a positive effect on the growth and fruiting of crops;
• transmits ultraviolet radiation;
• does not become cloudy for a long time and remains transparent;
• ecologically pure;
• maintains the necessary microclimate;
• does not prevent the penetration of water and air, without interfering with the evaporation of excess moisture;
• promotes ventilation, preventing the formation of fungus;
• durability.

Acrylic greenhouse

With all its advantages, acrylic also has a number of disadvantages:

• highly flammable;
• thin material may crack;
• high price;
• The service life is still shorter than that of polycarbonate.

Spunbond

Another modern covering material that is successfully used in growing tomatoes is spunbond (agrofibre). It is obtained from molten polymer by folding fibers into a web. The result is a nonwoven material with excellent characteristics.

This covering material is used at any time of the year. Spunbond is produced in different densities and different colors - white, black and two-color. White allows sunlight to pass through and promotes the development of vegetables, black inhibits the development of weeds and is used as a mulch cover, and black and yellow will repel some insects.

Spunbond greenhouse

The advantages of agrofibre are obvious:

• allows air to pass through;
• has a homogeneous structure;
• transmits light;
• effectively retains heat;
• light weight that does not harm young shoots;
• strength at high and low temperatures;
• not susceptible to mold and bacteria;
• non-toxic.

The modern market allows you to choose from a large number of covering materials, taking into account the needs of each gardener. Thanks to the latest technologies, growing tomatoes and other vegetable crops has become much easier, no matter what method is chosen.

When to plant tomato seedlings in open ground

Tomatoes come from South America. They do not tolerate frost and cold, can suffer from excess moisture, and need a lot of light. For their full development, it is necessary to observe the timing of planting in open ground, which will vary depending on the method of cultivation and on the specific region.

Under temporary shelter

The construction of a temporary shelter will not take much time. To install it, you just need to drive stakes along the edges of the bed and attach a pole to them, on which a film or non-woven covering material, for example, lutrasil, will be thrown. You can also use metal arcs that will serve as a frame.

With this planting, the tomatoes will be protected from soil freezing during unexpected frosts. The shelter will also protect the tomato bushes from the scorching sun, strong winds and downpours. It is recommended to plant tomatoes under film or material in open ground starting from the second half of May. By this time, the soil will have warmed up sufficiently, and even if slight frosts occur, the film will protect the seedlings from freezing.

In the greenhouse

If there is a greenhouse or greenhouse on the site, this greatly simplifies growing tomatoes and caring for them. Nowadays, most often these structures are made of polycarbonate, a material that transmits light well and retains heat. Using such a greenhouse allows you to get a tomato harvest to your table much earlier than when grown in open ground.

If the greenhouse is heated, seedlings can be planted in it in late April. In the absence of heating, it is better to do this in the first ten days of May. Of course, the timing must be adjusted depending on the region and weather conditions.

No shelter

If tomatoes are planted in open ground without shelter, the main condition will be stable warm weather without the threat of return frosts. Daytime temperatures should be in the range of 20-22°C, night temperatures should not be lower than 15°C, and the minimum ground temperature should be 10°C, or better yet 15°C. To determine whether the soil has warmed up enough, bury the thermometer 10-15 cm and check its readings.

If the temperature drops to -1°C even for a short time, this will have a very negative impact on the plants. They will survive, but fruiting in this case will be delayed by 1.5-2 weeks, and the growth of seedlings will also slow down.

By region: in the Moscow region, in the Urals, in Siberia, Leningrad region

In the Moscow region and other central regions, you can plant tomato seedlings in open ground without using shelter from the last days of May until June 10. In this case, you can be sure that you will definitely not kill your seedlings with cold air.

In the Urals, the weather is even more unpredictable, so planting seedlings in May is out of the question. Ural summer residents are recommended to do this at the end of the first ten days of June.

For Siberia, the deadline is shifted to June 7-15.

In cold regions, they often make a “warm” bed for tomatoes, laying a layer of straw between a layer of fertile soil and clay. When the organic matter overheats, it releases heat and warms the roots of the tomatoes. Next year, rotted straw will serve as a complete organic fertilizer.

On a note! If you use film shelters, you can move the planting dates back one week. Plants are planted in a stationary greenhouse 2 weeks earlier than in open ground.

Choose the right timing

Soil temperature is the main indicator in determining planting time
. When to plant seedlings:

1. The soil temperature should be at least 15 degrees . This is important both when planting in open ground and when placing it under film. It is better if the indicator is 20 degrees or more, then the plants grow and develop very well. At temperatures of 2 degrees and below, seedlings die. To check, you can simply insert a thermometer into the soil at the required depth.
2. In the middle zone, tomatoes are planted under film from mid to late May . It all depends on the weather conditions in a particular season and the degree of soil warming. Work should only be carried out if you are completely sure that there will be no cold or frost.
3. Consider the age of the seedlings . Depending on the ripening period, the recommended indicators differ. Early varieties are planted at the age of 40 to 50 days, mid-ripening - at 50-55 days and late-ripening - approximately 70 days after emergence. You should think through this point in advance in order to sow the seeds on time and receive seedlings on time.
4. Be guided by the condition of the plants . Plants ready for planting should have a height of 25 to 35 cm, measured from the root collar. An important requirement is a branched and strong root system. The branches should have at least 8-10 leaves. The stronger and thicker the stem, the better. In low-growing varieties, the first brushes may already bloom, there is nothing to worry about.

The seedlings must be strong, without damage or traces of disease.

Prepare the ground

Lime the soil in autumn If the soil has a high level of acidity, then use lime. Apply when digging in the autumn. Consumption rate - from 500 to 800 g per square meter, depending on the degree of acidity. If the soil is normal or slightly acidic, use chalk. Apply it in the same way as lime

It is important to do this every season to maintain optimal soil acid-base balance

Conduct soil disinfection

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To kill spores of all diseases and larvae of pests, use a solution of copper sulfate. Moreover, its temperature should be approximately 70 degrees to ensure maximum efficiency. Prepare the composition according to the instructions on the package, follow the proportions

Use a garden watering can for the job. The consumption rate is approximately a liter per square meter. After drying, the soil will turn white as in the photo, this is normal.

Apply fertilizer when digging up the soil in spring. Before planting tomatoes, you must feed the soil. You can use organic matter for these purposes - rotted manure or compost at the rate of a bucket per square meter. Spread evenly over the surface and then dig up. You can add a mixture of mineral fertilizers: 60 g of superphosphate, 20 g of ammonium nitrate and 20 g of potassium sulfate. This is the norm per square meter, the granules are mixed and poured when digging to a depth of 20 cm

Mulch the surface with film or special agrotextile. Use this option to prepare the soil in greenhouses. Under the film, the soil heats up much better and cools more slowly at night. Also, weeds do not grow on the surface, which is also important. Thanks to the film, you can plant tomatoes a week or two earlier. You don’t even have to remove it - just make cross-shaped cuts in the right places and plant the tomatoes there

Change the soil in film greenhouses every 3 years. It is best to pour the soil into wooden boxes 20-25 cm high, as in the example in the photo. This greatly simplifies the work. They are simply filled with soil and plants are planted there. Every 3 years, completely remove the soil and add fresh nutrient mixture. This provides the best conditions for the growth and development of tomatoes, because the depleted soil changes. During the work process, do not forget to treat the boxes with a disinfectant composition.

In the video, the author points out that when using a metal watering can, you should not prepare a solution of vitriol in it, as a reaction will begin. It is better to dilute the required amount of vitriol in a jar with a small volume of water and pour the liquid into a watering can immediately before use

How to prepare soil and planting material

Picking tomatoes

When the plants have two true leaves (usually on the 20th day, if there is enough light), the seedlings are watered abundantly and planted in separate cups or pots, covered with soil up to the cotyledon leaves. Tomatoes, unlike peppers, can easily tolerate transplants at any age. You cannot use bags and jars of lactic acid products for planting tomatoes, as lactic acid bacteria may remain there, causing root disease. Immediately after transplanting, the seedlings are removed from a sunny place, and after a couple of days they are returned back to the windowsill.

Care and feeding

The air temperature after planting should be 20 - 25°C during the day, 17 - 18°C ​​at night. The soil is kept well moist. Water with warm water in cloudy weather once every 5 days, in clear weather once every 2 days, but generously. After watering, the soil is loosened. The shelter should be well ventilated. 10 days after planting, the plants are fed.

During the first feeding, give 5 g of ammonium nitrate and urea, 20 g of superphosphate, 10 g of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water. It is necessary to feed the plants during the fruiting period with 10 g of ammonium nitrate, 5 g of urea, 20 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water. Plants are usually kept under shelters for 40 - 45 days. When the threat of frost ceases and the nights become warm, the film is removed.

Of course, in order to grow a rich harvest of tomatoes in open ground, you need to grow early varieties. To achieve good and strong seedlings.

The most important thing for good seedlings to grow is to have excellent, proven seeds and to properly prepare the soil for sowing:

So, in mid-May, if the weather is warm and the forecasts do not promise a sharp cooling, you can plant tomatoes in open ground, of course, with the possibility of covering them with film or covering material.

So I decided to plant tomatoes on the 20th of May. And I will plant them in two ways, depending on the variety, in warm beds.

The beds should be built no more than 70 cm wide, from west to east and with a slight slope to the south.

I plant tomatoes in a checkerboard pattern, two rows in the garden.

And, of course, despite determinant varieties, form and limit the number of inflorescences and the number of ovaries in the inflorescence.

Covering at night with different covering materials can also extend the season.

But still, the main difference compared to growing in greenhouses is the need to get an early, healthy harvest. Stretching out the season as in a greenhouse is much more difficult due to the inability to maintain a comfortable temperature and humidity, which occurs only in July and early August.

Growing tomatoes under light cover

Starting a greenhouse is a troublesome task.

It is especially difficult when your husband is not around and you have to do everything yourself. Of course, I don’t have enough strength to build a “house” for tomatoes. And I decided to grow tomatoes under light cover. Here's what I did.

Digging a trench

First, I dug a groove as deep as a shovel bayonet and about 60 cm wide (two shovel bayonets). To preserve heat, the bottom and sides of this trench were lined with straw (although if there is none, it is quite possible to use old newspapers folded several times).

I watered the seedlings generously so that they could be easily removed from plastic cups - I grow them in 0.5 liter beer containers.

Taking out the tomato bushes one by one, I placed half of them along with a lump of earth along one side of the groove, about 40 cm apart.

Then she filled the trench with earth mixed with humus, ash (a glass per bucket of soil) and superphosphate (a handful per bucket).

Link on topic: Tomatoes - planting and care from A to Z

Laying down the board

On top of the ground between the plants I placed a board along the entire length of the groove. If the trench is long and the boards are short, then you can take several, tightly joining them together.

This board performs several functions at once. Firstly, it protects the soil from drying out, secondly, it does not allow weeds to grow between the rows, and thirdly, when watering, it protects the soil from erosion and the formation of a soil crust. By the way, immediately after planting, the seedlings must be watered, and the water should spread over the board.

Building a greenhouse for tomatoes

After this, you need to build something like a greenhouse. At the ends of the ditch in the middle, place two logs or drive in stakes - all this should be the same height, approximately to the waist. We need to place a pole on these supports the entire length of our bed and secure it with nails. If there is no suitable length, you can tie two poles with aluminum wire.

On this pole I put a non-woven covering material - lutrasil, which can be left untouched until the first watering. The shelter can be completely removed when the weather is clear and sunny.

When the bushes grow to the pole, I tie them to it with linen twine. Usually this is enough, since I mainly grow determinate - low-growing varieties of tomatoes.

But if the plants are taller, the problem can be solved simply: you need to drive the stakes higher and raise the pole.

Caring for tomatoes grown in this way is no different from usual. From time to time it is necessary to break out the shoots, and in the second half of summer, pinch the tops of the plants so that the fruits swell faster. My top dressing is also traditional - an infusion of herbs with the addition of ash (a couple of glasses per barrel).

Link on topic: Indeterminate tomatoes - tall varieties

Iodine for tomatoes

It turns out that iodine stimulates the formation of ovaries in tomatoes, which naturally increases the yield.

I discovered this by accident, having treated half of the bushes for late blight (there simply wasn’t enough iodine for the second). I used this solution - 1 drop of iodine tincture per 3 liters of water. In those plants that I sprayed, the flower clusters developed faster and had a greater number of ovaries.

Now I process all the bushes and get excellent harvests. I also water the tomatoes at the root with iodine water (3 drops per bucket), using 1 liter per bush.

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What seedlings and how should they be transplanted into a greenhouse?

An important issue is preparing tomato seedlings for relocation to a greenhouse. The conditions maintained in a residential building and a greenhouse are very different in terms of lighting, temperature, and even the spectrum of sunlight that falls on the plants:

• Tomato seedlings, previously planted in a separate container, will receive less damage to the root system. And the plants will take less time to recover. Without this, it will take about two weeks to eliminate the damage; the seedlings will begin to grow only after restoration;
• 2-3 weeks before planting, seedlings begin to get accustomed to cool air by opening the windows slightly for 1-2 hours, gradually increasing the time. At the end of hardening, it is good to take the plants out to the balcony or just into the open air during the day, and after it becomes warm outside at night, do not bring them in at all. If possible, transfer the container with tomato seedlings to a greenhouse and leave it there, covered with film, but without planting it in the ground;
• A week before planting, fertilize the seedlings with a solution of potassium sulfate and wood ash to increase the strength and vitality of the plants;
• Before transplanting tomato seedlings into a greenhouse, gradually reduce the amount of watering, and 7 days before planting in the ground, stop it completely. Treat the plants on which inflorescences have formed with boric acid (dissolve 1 teaspoon of boric acid in 1 liter of water). This will keep the buds and inflorescences from falling off.

Healthy and strong seedlings have short internodes, a strong and healthy stem, and a well-developed root system. The bush should have at least 6-10 leaves.

When transplanting seedlings, you need to take into account that if you plant tomatoes in a greenhouse densely, the plants will not receive enough sunlight, and the risk of developing diseases that quickly develop in wet, too dense plantings will increase. In such conditions it will be inconvenient to care for plants. Plants should be planted no more than every 40 cm (taking into account the variety of tomatoes). Holes are made for the plants 20-30 cm deep, before planting the seedlings they are well filled with water, the soil is mixed so that mud is formed in which the tomatoes will be planted. There is no need to deepen the tomatoes into the soil; you can deepen the root collar by 3 cm, but only if the seedlings are not too tall.

For tomato seedlings that are too long, you need to prepare deep holes and the seedlings need to be planted lying down. Overgrown tomatoes are lowered together with a lump of earth into a deep hole, but it is not completely filled up; at first they will simply grow in a hole, which is covered with soil after 3 days. This type of planting of tomato seedlings in a greenhouse allows you to quickly form new roots. They will not completely switch to creating additional roots, but will continue to develop and, over time, will form flower stalks. After transplanting, seedlings do not need to be watered for one week; the moisture received during transplantation is enough for them.

The soil around the seedlings needs to be compacted and covered with a layer of mulch, loosened regularly so that excess moisture evaporates. Subsequent care consists of loosening and abundant watering. After 3 weeks, the tomato seedlings are fed for the first time - 15 g of ammonium nitrate, 50 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium sulfate are added to a bucket of water. Pour 1 liter of solution onto each tomato bush. The seedlings are fed the second time 3 weeks after the first feeding, the last time feeding is carried out a month before the tomato fruits ripen.

These simple care operations will protect tomato seedlings from diseases and reduce the time for rooting.

How to grow tomatoes

Tomatoes are grown in greenhouses and in open ground, but to get a good harvest, it is better to use seedlings. If you don’t have time to grow it at home, you can purchase ready-made bushes for planting at gardening stores. But in this case, there is a risk of getting a low-quality product; besides, if you plant the seedlings yourself, it is easier to control what fertilizers were applied and provide quality care.

Today, there are many successfully used methods for growing vegetable crops. Tomato is no exception - it can be planted in several ways: in a bucket, in paper and under film.

Experiments with growing tomatoes began due to the reluctance or lack of ability of gardeners to tinker with seedlings. And now everyone can choose the most comfortable method for themselves, because the dacha has become not only a garden for growing vegetables, but also a place of relaxation. Tomatoes are also grown without seedlings - under covering material or film.

How to grow tomatoes

Note! Tomatoes should not be planted after potatoes, peppers or eggplants, because these crops have similar diseases. It is also not recommended to plant tomatoes in a place where they have already grown for 4 years.

It is also better to exclude the proximity to potatoes in order to prevent infection with late blight. But after legumes, cucumbers, zucchini or pumpkins, tomatoes will grow well.

The bed should be prepared when the earth begins to warm up: loosen the soil, add fertilizer and water. Fertilizers should be used organic: peat, humus. Wood ash is also used. To answer the question of when to plant tomatoes under covering material, you need to understand in what climatic conditions they will grow. Tomatoes, both seedlings and seeds, should be planted as soon as the danger of frost has passed; for the middle zone this is usually mid-May. For planting seeds, you must choose early-ripening varieties, otherwise they may not germinate.

Seeds, prepared in advance (warmed up, disinfected, washed) are sown in furrows that should not exceed 1 cm in depth.

Important! To disinfect the seeds, they must be kept in potassium permanganate for about 15 minutes. Then the planting must be sprinkled with a layer of earth, watered with warm water and covered

This achieves a greenhouse effect, and the seeds germinate much earlier. For example, agrofibre or polyethylene is used as a covering material. It is important to sow seeds at a great distance, because replanting is not carried out subsequently, and if the plantings are thickened, the leaves may turn yellow. Next, you need to water the plants 3-5 liters per bush, depending on its size, about once a week. At the same time, make sure that water does not get on the leaves.

Preparing tomato seeds for sowing

Before sowing seeds for seedlings, they need to be prepared. First, the seeds must be disinfected, for example, with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate for 15 minutes. Then soak in Epin solution (2 drops per 100 ml of water) at room temperature for 18 hours. Instead of Epin, you can use aloe juice or the drug “Zircon” (1 drop per 250 ml of water). After this, the swollen tomato seeds can be sown.

For sowing seeds, it is better to use ready-made soil (sold in stores), since the development of the root system depends on its quality.