Reasons for leaf falling in pepper seedlings and ways to solve the problem

What is the danger of pepper seedlings falling leaves?

Leaves are not decoration, but the most important organ through which the process of photosynthesis and nutrition of the plant takes place. The loss of leaves leads to disruption of biochemical processes and rapid weakening of the plant organism.

Falling leaves at the seedling stage is dangerous in the short and long term because:

• leafless pepper seedlings risk dying;
• Even having avoided death and returned to growth, the seedlings become less viable and less productive in the future.

Causes

There are many reasons why pepper leaves fall off. But among them there are the main ones: improper watering, lack of nutrients, adaptation after planting and pests.

Improper watering

Cold water is detrimental to vegetables. Even a single watering will cause the crop to stop its development. Watering should be done with warm water, the temperature of which should be above 20ºC. The vegetable is quite demanding on irrigation. A poorly carried out process leads to the plant's leaves falling off. Excessive humidity or prolonged drought should not be allowed.

Nutrient deficiencies

Lack of nutrients in the soil can also cause bell peppers to lose their leaves. Peat or clay soils are unsuitable for planting this crop. In such soil the plant lacks:

An acute deficiency of nutrients is felt in depleted soils where organic matter and mineral fertilizers have not been applied for a long time. The reaction of the crop to poor soil is manifested in yellowing, curling and falling of the lower leaves.

Adaptation period during transplantation

Pepper seedlings tolerate planting in open ground quite well. Difficult adaptation awaits if you do not prepare her for the transplant in advance. The reasons for leaf falling during the adaptation period may be:

• unhardened seedlings;
• insufficiently warmed soil during planting;
• lack of vitamins and microelements in the soil;
• lack of sunlight.

Lighting is also important for adaptation. Sunlight affects full development. When planting seedlings in shade or partial shade, their growth slows down, metabolic processes are poor, so leaves may fall off.

Pests

Pests prevent plants from growing fully

Pepper is a tasty vegetable for insects such as spider mites and aphids. They suck nutrients from the plant's sap. Aphids cover the leaves with sticky secretions, and spider mites envelop them in a thin thread of cobwebs, resulting in a disruption of the photosynthesis process. Weakened seedlings gradually dry out and die. Vegetables affected by pests will not die, but the quality of the crop will be greatly reduced.

Diseases

Among the reasons why bell pepper leaves fall are diseases to which the seedlings are susceptible. Diseases affect plants with low immunity and protective functions.

Bacterial diseases

To prevent their occurrence, it is recommended to observe the temperature regime and promptly remove dried parts and disinfect the soil before planting. To treat such diseases it is worth carrying out:

1. Digging up the soil, observing crop rotation.
2. Trimming damaged areas.
3. Spraying with copper sulfate solution.
4. Treatment with methyl bromide.

Viral lesions

In case of viral diseases, the only method of prevention can be considered the planting of virus-resistant varieties of pepper: Aries, Zarya, Yubileiny, Dar Kasiya, Atlant, Cardinal. Diseases of viral origin include tobacco and cucumber mosaic, as well as streak. Treatment methods include:

1. Treat seeds before planting with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
2. Spraying seedlings with a mixture of milk and iodine.
3. Treatment of the consequences of bacterial infections.
4. Removing weeds from garden beds.

Fungal diseases

Fungal diseases that cause leaf drop include brown spot and rot. These diseases are caused by damage to the vegetable by fungal spores that persist in the soil or come with various fertilizers. To treat pepper you need:

1. Remove areas affected by fungus.
2. Treat with Bordeaux mixture.
3. Sprinkle with garlic infusion.

Do not allow moisture to stagnate in the soil and become overgrown with weeds. Maintaining the temperature regime has a beneficial effect on the development of the plant, especially in the autumn.

Causes of falling and solution to the problem

Pepper seedlings are demanding and capricious, so there are many reasons why “leaf fall” may begin. Basically, they are all associated with violation of growing conditions and agrotechnical errors.

Bad light

Lighting errors can occur in any place - both on window sills and in specialized greenhouses. The main problem is the lack of light, which light-loving peppers have a very high need for.

Favorable light conditions for pepper:

• at least 12 hours of daylight;
• diffused type of lighting.

If the pepper lacks light, it begins to shed its leaves. In addition, plants stretch, their trunks become thin and fragile.

Measures to prevent lack of light:

• turning on phytolamps with a power of 40-80 W (lamps are placed 8-10 cm above the plants);
• planting seeds in accordance with the scheme, maintaining intervals of 1-1.5 cm between neighboring plants, otherwise the plantings will be thickened;
• Instead of phytolamps, you can use natural lighting, placing boxes with seedlings on the sunniest balconies and window sills.

If the seedlings are positioned in such a way that direct sunlight falls on them, they must be shaded periodically - from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Otherwise, the leaves will get sunburned.

Incorrect soil composition

Pepper seedlings cannot be grown in ordinary soil; a special substrate is prepared or purchased for it.

Optimal composition:

• humus - 2 parts;
• calcined earth - 1 part;
• sand - 1 part.

The soil must have neutral acidity. If the soil is acidic, you need to add dolomite flour - 200 g per 1 square meter. m.

Fertilizer shortage

Insufficiently nutritious soil is one of the most common causes of leaf falling. Sowing is done in fertile soil, purchased or prepared independently. At first, the seedlings grow quickly, but over time the soil becomes depleted and the plants experience a lack of nutrition.

If the leaves turn yellow and fall off, the pepper seedlings are most likely lacking nitrogen. In order to develop fully, the upper part of the plant takes nutrition from the lower leaves, because of this they gradually die off.

How to eliminate nutritional deficiencies:

• If the leaves are yellow. Feed the seedlings with fertilizers containing nitrogen - you can use urea or saltpeter (20 g per 1 sq. m).
• If the leaves have turned yellow, but the veins remain green. This means there is not enough calcium. Apply any complex fertilizer according to the instructions.

Feed the seedlings at the root, and only on damp soil, so as not to burn the tender roots of the plants. Do not water the peppers for the next couple of days, otherwise the water will wash the nutrients through the drainage holes.

Wrong choice of container

To prevent leaves from falling off, seedlings should grow in containers measuring 8x12-15 cm (height x diameter). If this rule is violated, plus if the plantings are dense, the roots of the plants become intertwined and the growth of young plants is inhibited.

Wrong pick

Picking involves replanting plants by pinching the roots, which is a significant stress for them. It is important to move the seedlings carefully, otherwise one of the reactions to it will be the dropping of leaves.

How to prevent leaves from falling:

• immediately sow pepper seedlings in separate containers so as not to replant;
• it is best to sow peppers in peat pots, then the seedlings will not have to be removed from the containers at all, even when transplanted to a permanent place;
• if sowing is done in a common container, observe the intervals provided for by agricultural technology, otherwise the roots of the plants will intertwine and tear when picking;
• For 3-4 days after transplanting into new containers, the seedlings are kept in a dark place; if you place them in the sun, the leaves will begin to dry out and fall off.

Low temperature

Pepper comes from warm countries, so it is very heat-loving. Cannot tolerate cold and drafts. For normal growth and development, it needs a daytime temperature in the range of +22...+25°C, and a nighttime temperature not lower than +14°C.

Cold weather causes seedlings to weaken and lose their ability to extract nutrients from the soil. The only tool for obtaining the latter are leaves. Experiencing critical overload, the pepper foliage gradually turns yellow and falls off.

It is important to maintain the temperature in the greenhouse or other room in which the seedlings are growing within the established limits. After planting seedlings in closed ground, if the need arises, it is recommended to turn on the heaters.

Improper watering

Pepper loves not only light and warmth, but also watering. It reacts equally negatively to both waterlogging and moisture deficiency. The leaves of the plants wither, become soft and drooping, and after a while they turn yellow and fall off.

Pepper has a shallow but branched root system, so the plant takes water mainly from the top layer of soil. It is recommended to water this crop frequently and abundantly.

How to properly water pepper seedlings:

• the water should stand for two days;
• water temperature for irrigation - +20....+22°C;
• Containers must have drainage holes to ensure the drainage of excess water;
• watering is carried out only after the soil has dried by 2 cm, no less;
• It is advisable to water in the morning;
• water is poured directly under the roots so that it does not fall on the leaves - otherwise sunburn may occur.

If you pour cold water over the pepper, the temperature in the container will change sharply, and the roots will lose their ability to “drink.” Because of this, watered plants will need water, despite the moist soil.

Crop rotation violation

“Leaf fall” in seedlings can be observed due to violation of crop rotation rules. There are crops after which pepper cannot be grown. Inexperienced gardeners often make a grave mistake - they take garden soil from an area where crops unfavorable for peppers grew and forget to treat it before sowing.

Unfavorable predecessors for pepper are all nightshade crops - potatoes, eggplants, tomatoes.

Diseases and pests

Falling leaves on seedlings can be caused by certain diseases and pests. Such cases are the most dangerous, since the loss of leaves occurs after a long and destructive impact of negative factors.

Causes of leaf falling:

• Spider mite. Small sucking insects that settle on the underside of leaves. Damaged leaves curl and fall. To combat ticks, use “Akarin” or “Fitoverm”, in accordance with the dosage specified by the manufacturer. If the case is not advanced, you can limit yourself to a soap solution - a piece of grated soap in 10 liters of water. In particularly advanced cases, it is recommended to spray the seedlings with Actellik.
• Aphid. Settles on all above-ground parts of the plant. The leaves become pale yellow and gradually fall off the seedlings. It is recommended to spray the seedlings with tincture of tobacco dust - dilute 500 g in 10 liters of water and leave for 24 hours. Then add 50 g of laundry soap. Wood ash will also be used instead of tobacco.
• Fusarium wilt. This is a common disease among nightshade crops. Causes rapid yellowing and falling of leaves. The causative agent is a fungus, which makes no sense to fight at the stage of growing seedlings. If bright yellow leaves appear on the seedlings, they need to be torn out and destroyed, and the entire soil should be calcined or disinfected with a solution of Fundazol.
• Stolbur is a pathological condition caused by microscopic midges that drink juices from leaves and other parts of plants. Seedlings slow down, their foliage turns yellow and subsequently falls off. They fight the problem with chemicals. Even before flowering, all seedlings must be treated with insecticides - “Aktara”, “Inta Vir”, “Aktellik”, “Confidor” or their analogues.
• Late blight . The disease often affects young plants. Before falling, it causes characteristic spots on the leaves - dark and dense. The problem is dealt with using the drugs “Barrier” or “Barrier”. They are also recommended for use in cases of blackleg. This disease, common in seedlings, is easily recognized by the dark ring at the base of the stem.

Other vegetable diseases, such as powdery mildew, can also cause leaf loss. Having discovered signs of a particular disease, you must immediately take measures to treat or destroy the seedlings - if the pathology is incurable.

The main reasons for the falling of pepper leaves

Among the main reasons why bell pepper leaves fall off when grown may be:

• errors in care;
• disease damage;
• attack by harmful insects.

Next, let's look at each of the reasons in more detail.
Important! When caring for peppers, it is unacceptable to violate the rules of agricultural technology, since this threatens not only a deterioration in the appearance of the plants (which indicates an unhealthy crop), but also a decrease in its yield.

Violation of pepper care techniques

What errors may occur in care:

1. There is an insufficient amount of minerals in the soil (potassium, nitrogen, magnesium).
2. The soil is oversaturated with nitrogen.
3. Increased soil acidity.
4. Dying of roots or disruption of their development due to improper planting (roots intertwine with each other during growth, which does not allow nutrients to be sufficiently absorbed).
5. Lack of vitamin B due to lack of balanced nutrition.
6. Incorrect watering schedule (insufficient moisture, excessive watering or water at inappropriate temperature).
7. Prolonged exposure to direct sunlight.
8. Planting a crop in a bed with constant shading, which causes a lack of ultraviolet radiation.
9. Unsuitable temperature conditions (excessive heat or low temperatures).
10. Lack of ventilation.
11. Excessive thickening of plantings.

Diseases

Sweet peppers have many common diseases, leading to wilting and shedding of not only the foliage, but also the ovaries, and sometimes the death of the entire bush.

Among them:

1. Blackleg. A fungal infection can develop during shoot growth. Factors that encourage the development of the disease are various bacteria that can persist in seeds, soil and crop residues, and dense planting of bushes, poor ventilation and insufficient aeration provoke the growth of fungi.

2. Gray rot. A disease caused by the fungus otrytis cinerea. At the bottom of the stems, in the area of ​​their contact with the soil, wet brown spots with a grayish coating form. Provoking factors for the appearance of fungus are a combination of high humidity and ambient temperature above +20°C.

3. Late blight. Bushes are infected with the fungus Phytophthora infestans, which can spread to the entire pepper planting. The early stage of development is similar to a blackleg lesion. After 14 days, brownish spots already cover the entire plant and even the fruits. In dry weather, the foliage quickly dries out, wrinkles and crumbles.

4. Cladosporiosis (brown spot). It is caused by the fungus fulvia fulva, which mainly spreads to bushes planted in a greenhouse where there is high humidity. With the disease described, brownish spots appear on the outside of the leaves, and on top they are covered with a gray velvety coating. Then the stems and fruits rot, the foliage falls off, and the plant dies.

5. Fusarium. Damage to stem vessels by the fusarium fungus. Clogged stem ducts do not allow nutrients and moisture to penetrate the plant, it is poisoned by toxins, its foliage turns yellow, curls and withers. At the same time, rot develops on shoots, roots and fruits. The plant gradually sheds its leaves and fruits and then dies.

6. Black bacterial spot. A characteristic sign of the disease is dark spotting that spreads over the leaves and shoots and has a yellow border at the border with the green parts. The cause of the disease is soil contaminated with bacteria.

Pests

In addition to diseases, pepper plantings are also threatened by pests.

The most dangerous of them are:

1. Aphid . The parasite feeds on plant juices and is capable of destroying a large plantation of bushes in a short time, which, as a result of the defeat, will begin to shed their leaves and flowers.
2. Spider mite . The pest is located on the lower parts of the leaves and sucks the juices from the plant, which leads to the loss of foliage by the plant.
3. Slugs are naked . They attack the green part of the plant, including foliage and fruits, which is why the bush begins to rot.
4. Mole cricket and Colorado potato beetle . Both the mole cricket and the Colorado potato beetle and its voracious larvae can feast on the leaves of peppers. Pests are capable of destroying most of the foliage on plants in a short time. The bushes begin to hurt and lose the remaining leaves.

Typical mistakes depending on the growing method

The fall of leaves on seedlings largely depends on the conditions in which it has to grow. Each place - apartments, greenhouses, balconies and verandas - has its own factors that provoke the loss of green mass.

In greenhouses

Greenhouses and greenhouses have a special atmosphere - it is humid and hot, the air is stale and there is not enough oxygen. Such conditions can negatively affect the condition of the seedlings.

Reasons for the fall of cotyledon leaves in greenhouse conditions:

• fungal diseases;
• poor quality ventilation;
• drafts;
• thickened plantings.

To reduce problems when growing pepper seedlings in greenhouses, it is recommended to choose varieties that are resistant to unfavorable growing conditions. Experts advise paying attention to the varieties Bogatyr, Agapovsky and Apricot favorite.

In the open ground

The seedlings are planted in the ground at a certain time, and at this stage it is extremely important to avoid mistakes that can lead to poor establishment and loss of leaves. Once in a new place, seedlings can be attacked by pests, freeze, or suffer from the scorching sun.

Negative factors:

• poor quality material;
• the wrong place for planting seedlings was chosen;
• poorly fertilized and improperly prepared land.

It is also recommended to implement preventive measures to prevent diseases and pest attacks from the first days of transplanting seedlings.

Care Tips

Pepper is a very demanding crop and with poor quality care it often gets sick and dies. To avoid pepper leaves falling off, you need to adhere to the following rules:

1. When watering, you need to maintain the temperature ratio of water to air and soil. The water should be warm, but not lower than 5º from the air temperature. You should not water when the outside temperature drops below 17ºC. Water should be applied directly to the root system of the plant, distributing it evenly. In fairly hot summers, additional watering should be carried out by irrigating the entire bed. A favorable time for watering is early morning or evening hours, while the earth is still warmed by the daytime sun.
2. To increase the circulation of air and moisture in the soil, rotted manure should be added when preparing the soil for winter. It is not recommended to introduce fresh humus. A high nitrogen content in it will have a detrimental effect on the harvest. Peat should not be used as fertilizing, as it increases acidity. A small amount of wood ash will have a beneficial effect on the growth of pepper, because the composition contains calcium, phosphorus and potassium. Organic fertilizers will help make the soil looser and lighter. The introduction of organic matter is carried out in the autumn. During flowering, when future vegetables begin to form, in order to improve the quality of the harvest and prevent leaf shedding, it is worth feeding with complex mineral fertilizers. During this period, the culture needs superphosphates.
3. Hardening of seedlings must be carried out immediately after transplanting into open ground. To do this, for 2 weeks before planting, the seedlings must be placed alternately: during the day - on a balcony or terrace, and at night - left on a window in the house. It is worth planting only in warm soil, when the frosts have already passed. To minimize sudden changes in temperature, they should be covered at night and protected from direct sunlight.
4. It is worth regularly inspecting the plant stem for the absence of insects such as aphids and spider mites. It is worth taking immediate action when the first signs of pests appear. A favorable time for the reproduction of parasites is dry and hot summer. It is during this period that it is worth preventing an excessive population of aphids and spider mites on the lower leaves of the crop. Before color appears, you can treat with insecticides against pests. Do not increase the dose indicated on the label. The culture should be re-processed after 14 days. When the first ovaries appear, treatment with insecticidal preparations is not recommended. It should be replaced with folk remedies. For processing, infusions based on tomato tops, dandelion mustard, chamomile or hot pepper are used. The best effect is obtained by alternating solutions with an interval of 3 to 10 days.

Why do leaves fall when planting seedlings in a permanent place?

Especially often, wilting and falling off of the green mass is observed when transplanting seedlings. If the seedlings are not grown in peat tablets, first water them and then carefully remove them from the containers. Plant plants together with a lump of earth using the transshipment method.

Possible causes of the problem:

• damage to small roots;
• planting too deep;
• different soil composition.

After transplantation, seedlings often slow down their growth, their lower leaves droop and often fall off. This situation at the initial stage is not critical - the plants simply adapt to new conditions, shed “ballast”, directing all their forces to take root.

After 3-4 days, the root system is completely restored, the seedlings get used to the new place and the falling of leaves stops. As soon as the pepper begins to grow new leaves, rest assured that it has taken root successfully. Simultaneously with the growth of green mass, buds begin to form.

If after 3-5 days recovery has not occurred, most likely an error was made during planting, or there is not enough fertilizer in the soil.

Top dressing

Situation: the light is set, the watering is adjusted - the microclimate is ideal. And the peppers are thin, weak, the leaves are limp, pale, and they even begin to dry on the edges below. Let's find out: the peppers are sown in coconut substrate. The material is light, loose, breathable, but not at all nutritious. Where do developing plants get the strength to grow?

If all maintenance conditions are met, and the peppers dry out, turn yellow, and lose their leaves, this means only one thing: the gardener forgot that the seedlings are fed:

• In a nutrient mixture with humus, compost, and garden soil, fertilizing begins one and a half to two weeks after diving into the same rich soil. Before planting, they give a full range of macro- and microelements twice, but the emphasis is on potassium and phosphorus.
• In substrates without a nutritional component, feeding begins when the first pair of leaves unfolds. Not cotyledons, the lowest ones, but real ones. Fertilize constantly, after 10 days, until planting in the garden.

First, feed with dishes with a predominance of nitrogen (for example, urea), gradually add potassium and phosphorus. Be sure to give the microcomplex for seedlings 2-3 times: a deficiency of boron, manganese, and other elements will lead to deformation and improper growth.

Video about fertilizing pepper seedlings:

What measures should be taken to save seedlings?

If you see that pepper seedlings are losing their leaves, it is important to find out the reasons for this phenomenon as soon as possible and take all possible measures to eliminate them.

What to do first to save seedlings:

• Treat all plants. Both healthy and with falling leaves, using the Zircon preparation.
• Check for drafts in the room or greenhouse. And eliminate them when found.
• Find out the reason for the leaves falling. Check the temperature, air and soil humidity. Take measures to eliminate unfavorable conditions - adjust temperature, humidity and lighting.
• Pay attention to the appearance of the plants. Perhaps they are affected by some disease. Based on the symptoms, make a diagnosis and take measures to eliminate the disease. Spray the seedlings with a fungicide or a homemade solution, depending on the type of disease. At the same time, treat the soil itself with fungicidal preparations.
• Analyze the possibility of nutrient deficiencies. If all other reasons for leaf falling are excluded, the plants most likely need fertilizer. Determine by external signs which element they lack and apply the appropriate fertilizer.

What to do and how to save pepper

The following actions will help save the seedlings:

• Treatment with Zircon.
• After this, it is necessary to determine the cause of the fall and begin eliminating it.
• If the abscission is caused by diseases that cannot be treated, the plant must be disposed of and the soil treated with a fungicide.
• If necessary, change growing conditions.

Have you managed to save pepper seedlings from falling leaves?

Yes

No

Preventive actions

Measures aimed at preventing leaf loss are considered more effective, rather than actions taken after the problem occurs. Even if it is possible to correct the situation by curing the seedlings or eliminating the causes of the pathology, it will still weaken and be delayed in development.

Measures to prevent leaf drop in pepper seedlings:

• Hardening. In the last 7-10 days, harden off the seedlings regularly. Take it out to the balcony or outside every day. In the greenhouse, lower the temperature for a short time, but only without creating drafts. Carry out the hardening in an increasing manner - starting with 10-20 minutes, increase the time spent outside to several hours.
• Lighting. Purchase phytolamps in advance and hang them correctly in the places where the seedlings are placed. Think about which windows the containers with seedlings will be placed on, and where you will place them after picking.
• Crop rotation. If the seedlings are growing in a greenhouse, do not grow them in the soil after the nightshades. Be sure to change or disinfect the soil with antifungal agents. Preferably throughout the greenhouse.
• Fertilizers. Don't wait until the leaves fall to feed your seedlings. Follow the feeding schedule and closely monitor the condition of the seedlings.

Prevention of leaf fall

In order to prevent the dropping of leaves from peppers, it is necessary to strictly follow the agricultural practices of the crop:

• harden seedlings before planting in an open bed;
• choose well-ventilated and lit plots with fertile soil for planting;
• when planting seedlings, carefully straighten their roots;
• follow the rules of crop rotation, not planting peppers in the same place for 3-4 years;
• regularly apply fertilizing and fertilizers;
• water both seedlings and adult bushes with warm water, observing the optimal watering schedule;
• promptly identify diseases and parasites and apply the prescribed measures to them.

Did you know? For people with a contraindication to eating raw bell pepper, nutritionists have come up with “live candies”, which include freshly squeezed juice and pulp of this fruit.

Advice from experienced gardeners

Growing pepper seedlings cannot be called too difficult. Pepper does not require anything special compared to tomatoes or any other nightshade crop. But it’s worth listening to the advice of experienced gardeners who have been growing peppers for many years.

Helpful Tips:

• Buy seeds only from reliable suppliers. Contact specialized agricultural stores and buy seed material from well-known and trusted manufacturers. All of them are well known to gardeners. And if you are new to gardening, find out in advance which companies’ seeds are in demand.
• Plant only disinfected seeds. If they are treated by the manufacturer, plant them in the ground immediately. And if the seeds are not pickled, or you use self-collection, be sure to disinfect them. To do this, use a solution of potassium permanganate - 1 g of powder per 1 liter of warm water.
• Ventilate the greenhouse every day. Otherwise, there will be a high risk of not only falling leaves, but also the death of seedlings. In stale and humid air, mold and fungi multiply especially actively.
• Give preference to “resistant” varieties. Resistant to diseases and pests, easily withstanding climate challenges, and zoned in your region.

The most difficult moment in the case of pepper seedlings falling leaves is determining the cause of this phenomenon. Once it becomes clear why the plants are losing their leaves, all that remains is to eliminate the source of trouble through drugs or by adjusting the growing conditions.

Temperature and light

By nature, sweet peppers love high humidity, warmth and plenty of sun.
The domestic climate is not entirely suitable for him. But in order to plant a healthy crop in open ground or a greenhouse, ensure that the air in the room with the seedlings is heated at +22 °C. Fluctuations are allowed, however, cooling to +14 °C or less will be fatal for the plant. First of all, the leaves on the bush turn yellow. Do not allow seedlings to cool for a long time to a critical temperature or close to it. It is a mistake to grow seedlings on a cold windowsill or near a heating radiator. The roots of young peppers do not tolerate hypothermia and overheating. Experienced gardeners place containers with herbs on any insulation. Another option is simple thick cardboard.

Lighting is also an important factor in successful growing. Active photosynthesis occurs in the leaves, and the entire bush develops fully under 12 hours of daylight. During periods of cloudy weather, it is advisable to illuminate the plants. Recommended lamp power is 40-80 W. Location point - up to 10 cm from the top of the bush.

Humidity value in a greenhouse when growing peppers

Optimal humidity in the greenhouse is ensured by watering, spraying and ventilation.

Watering. Pepper loves moisture. Summer residents water plants in greenhouses frequently and abundantly. However, overwatering should not be allowed. In this case, the root system cannot cope with the amount of moisture, and its supply to the above-ground part of the plant is disrupted. The leaves lack water, turn yellow, wither and dry out. The roots are rotting. Your plant will die without emergency measures:

• Changing the watering schedule.
• Regular ventilation of the greenhouse.

Tip #1: To protect your peppers from stress, water your plants with warm, settled water..

When there is insufficient watering, the following happens. The growth of the root system, especially when transplanting seedlings, requires an increase in moisture. Therefore, the usual mode does not provide the leaves with the required amount of water. They suffer from its lack and turn yellow.

Monitor the condition of the soil in order to adjust the plant watering schedule in time

Measures to combat the problem

To ensure a good harvest, it is necessary to strictly monitor the conditions created for the plant. Pepper needs to provide the necessary nutrition, lighting, humidity level, and systemic watering. An experienced farmer should be able to adjust these conditions when growing crops in a greenhouse.

There are methods, tested by time and by farmers, that help correct unfavorable agrotechnical or natural factors.

To combat insect pests, you can use biological and chemical preparations:

• Aktara;
• Actellik (whitefly);
• Kleschevit (spider mite), etc.

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The use of powerful drugs will be necessary if there are large losses of potential yield. Of course, it is better to first try to solve the pest problem with folk remedies. For example, spray with infusion of chamomile, garlic, yarrow or a solution made from laundry soap.

Impact of harmful insects and diseases

The situation when a bush does not bloom or the ovary falls off due to damage by insects happens quite rarely, but it does happen.

The pest feeds on the sap of the plant, causing it to become exhausted. And a weak plant, of course, loses its ability to bear fruit, so it drops its flowers.

Greenhouse peppers can be damaged by the greenhouse whitefly. These are small moth-like insects with thin white wings. It is not so much the peppers themselves that are harmful, but their secretions, which lead to the development of fungus and damage to the leaves. In open ground, pepper can be damaged by mole crickets, ants, nematodes and even the Colorado potato beetle. Most of these pests, living in the soil, gnaw at the roots of peppers, as a result of which the plants slowly die, and the first manifestation of their death is the dropping of flowers and ovaries.

Among diseases, any fungal disease can lead to the loss of flowers, especially late blight, rot, verticillium (plant wilting), as well as bacterial spot. These diseases lead first to damage to the leaves, and then to the entire plant, but the first sign of the disease is again the falling off of the ovaries and flowers. How to fight diseases and insects? First of all, you need to clean the soil, since pest larvae and fungal spores live in it. During illness, you can use biological products (Fitosporin, Fitoverm).

Causes

Peppers have many reasons to lose their foliage. Perhaps such a reaction does not promise anything terrible, or perhaps right now it is necessary to quickly carry out a series of rescue procedures. But first things first.

• Light.
  From the moment a sprout emerges from the ground, you need to monitor its condition. And the first thing that can affect your well-being is the degree of illumination. The lack of such a factor, be it sunlight or artificial, will provoke the stretching of seedlings. If this goes on for too long, the pepper sprout may become weakened and begin to lose its leaves.
• The soil.
  The cause of the problem may lie in acidic and heavy soil. Peppers will not like to grow in such conditions. And oddly enough, its subsequent reaction will manifest itself in yellowing followed by dropping of leaves.
• Diseases.
  Initially, soil contaminated with bacteria or fungi will likely be unsuitable for the life of fragile seedlings. And you also need to be prepared for the fact that pests can emigrate from another place and cause harm to the plant.
• Space.
  There is no need to save money by allocating small containers for seedlings. In crowded conditions, the plant's roots will begin to tangle and rot. This will significantly reduce the supply of nutrients, which will lead to a number of other problems, including leaf shedding. If it is possible to plant peppers on time, then, of course, you can use small peat pots. But if there is still at least a month before planting, the growing container should be spacious, about 0.5 liters per plant.
• Lack of moisture.
  In dry weather, especially before transplanting into open ground, it is very easy to miss the drying out of the soil in the pot.

• Excess moisture.
  Overwatering can also cause peppers to lose foliage.
• Temperature.
  Temperature conditions that are far beyond the limits (less than +12°C at night and above +26°C during the day) are another common cause of the problem.
• Transfer.
  This is exactly the case when, in order to cope with leaf fall, you just need to wait. Planting pepper in a new place is almost always accompanied by stress, which can manifest itself in the form of yellowing of the leaves with their further falling.

• Minerals.
  Soil poor in minerals will not be able to satisfy the large nutritional needs of pepper. First of all, nitrogen deficiency will manifest itself. Starting from the lower leaves and above, their green color will gradually change to yellow. And with a long-term lack of the mineral, yellowing will not be enough, and the plant will begin to lose foliage. In addition to nitrogen, you cannot do without such important substances as phosphorus, potassium, calcium, iron and others. How to prevent mineral starvation in peppers will be discussed below.
• Sunburn.
  The problem is more relevant for regions with very active summer sun. On days when the sun's rays carry a critically high amount of energy, an uncovered bush, especially young seedlings, can get sunburned. But, on the other hand, pepper is a light-loving plant. Therefore, in such conditions, you need to wisely plan the place for growing, maneuvering between the sizzling sun and deep shadow.
• Water temperature.
  Anything that can lead to a shock state of the plant will, one way or another, affect the health of the foliage. By watering with cold water, the risk of harming the root system increases, which then will not develop properly. This will inevitably cause complex damage to the pepper.
• Pests.
  Some small insects will also want to taste the delicious bell pepper, but not its fruit part, but its leafy part. The juices of the plant will serve as the main dish for pests. Leaves from such an impact will not be able to stay with the plant for long and will soon leave it.

Mineral fasting

When there is a lack of nutrients, pepper leaves turn yellow. In each case it is different:

1. Nitrogen deficiency. The stem stretches, the greenery turns pale, the leaves turn yellow from the tips, from bottom to top. Remove affected parts. Apply foliar fertilization with nitrogen by spraying. For example, urea, ammonium nitrate, etc. But do not exceed the recommended concentration of the solution: 10 g per 10 liters of water.
2. Iron deficiency. Yellowing of the leaves occurs from top to bottom. Add a solution of iron sulfate to the soil: 10 g and 20 g of ascorbic acid per 1 liter. Water or spray the bush.
3. Lack of potassium. The leaves turn yellow and curl from the edge to the middle. Dissolve 10 g of boric acid in 1 liter of hot water. Dilute the concentrate in 5 liters of plain water. Water the seedlings at the root.

The nuances of proper feeding:

• plan the procedure for the morning;
• when applying root fertilizers, moisten the soil in advance to avoid burning the roots;
• strictly follow the dosage.

Experienced gardeners eliminate nutrition problems at the sowing stage. To do this, you need to properly prepare the substrate. A good option is to mix the nutrient soil from the site with a small portion of peat. And you should not use stimulants for the development and strengthening of the root system. If the soil is not nutritious enough, add a complex mineral composition (according to the instructions) and calcium nitrate (1 granule per bush).

Landing conditions violated

At the sowing stage they make mistakes due to inexperience. The main reasons for future problems with pepper seedlings are:

• incorrectly selected planting mixture;
• violation of sowing technology.

When preparing the substrate for pepper seeds, the following prerequisites are taken into account:

1. If you use garden soil for soil mixture (and some of the garden soil is useful for quick adaptation to the garden after replanting), then it is taken taking into account crop rotation, but it must be processed. Details about the composition and preparation of the mixture for peppers are written in this article.
2. Pepper seeds are placed in the ground so that the seedlings do not form a dense wall. Each sweet pepper has free space.

Otherwise, the sprouts stretch out, competing for space and light, and crush each other. Those that are weaker grow sluggish, thin, and more often die before reaching the pick.

And here the intertwined roots are divided and exposed for this purpose. Injuries are inevitable. After transplanting into a pot, the peppers take a long time to recover and droop. Some of these plants will certainly wither and at least drop their leaves or die outright.