Raspberry herbicides: description of the top 10 weed preparations and which one to choose

Hurricane Forte

This is potassium salt, which in the form of an aqueous solution perfectly destroys hogweed, dandelion sow thistle and other pests, which are quite difficult to get rid of in the garden. The drug quickly penetrates the root system of the parasite, inhibits its growth, and then completely destroys it. Approximately 2 weeks after treatment, cultivated plants can be planted. The advantage of the drug is its resistance to moisture. In this case, the seeds germinate adequately, and the soil does not suffer. The consumption is very economical even in beds and areas that suffer greatly from weeds.

For annuals, use 20 ml of the drug per 2-3 liters of water. It is processed when cereals have a leaf length of 5 cm or more, and broad-leaved plants produce 2 true leaves.

For processing, a freshly prepared solution is used, and the weather should be dry and without wind. If rain is expected soon, it is better to postpone the work.

The average cost of Hurricane Forte is 115 rubles.

Review of popular tools

Domestic and foreign companies have created and continue to produce pesticides that are used by farmers to treat fields, used by summer residents, and gardeners.

"Roundup"

The herbicide, the active component of which is glyphosate, adheres to the surface of the stems and leaves, is directed into the cells through the pores, disrupts metabolism, the plant turns yellow and withers. “Roundup” has a viscous consistency, almost no odor, is packaged in ampoules of 100, 50, 5 ml, sold in 1 liter bottles and canisters. The active component of the drug enters plant cells in 6 hours and spreads throughout the tissues in 7 days.

When using Roundup:

You can plant raspberries in a herbicide-treated area not next year, but right away. The product copes with hogweed, sow thistle, nettle, wheatgrass, and suppresses the growth of cereal grasses.

To prepare the solution, the viscous consistency is mixed with water and stored for no more than 7 days. To destroy annual weeds, 60 ml of the drug is combined with a bucket of liquid; to combat perennials, the dose is doubled.

The disadvantage of Roundup is that its composition kills beneficial bacteria living in the soil and destroys both vegetable crops and fruit bushes.

"Glisol"

The herbicide, developed by a Russian research institute, when absorbed by plant leaves, suppresses the synthesis of flavonoids and amino acids and moves along the stems to the roots. After treatment with Glysol, wheatgrass, sow thistle, dandelion and other perennial grasses die within 3 weeks. The effect of the drug slows down in rainy and cold weather.

The herbicide is marketed as an aqueous solution containing glyphosate salt. The product does not pollute the environment and does not affect seeds. Treatment with the drug is carried out on a dry day in the absence of wind.

"Glyphos"

Gardeners who are tired of weeding their garden beds by hand use herbicides to control weeds in their raspberry fields. You need to handle Glyphos with care, since the drug destroys crops that get in your way. The composition penetrates the leaves and is absorbed by the stems, which leads to the death of the root system.

The effect of the drug does not decrease in unfavorable weather, since it contains surfactants and a water softener is added.

Annual herbs wither on the 4th day after treatment with Glyphos; the instructions for the drug indicate the dosage for different weeds; dissolve from 80 to 120 ml in a bucket of water.

"Volcano"

The herbicide, which is produced on the basis of the isopropylamine salt of glyphosate, destroys all weeds. The active component of the chemical penetrates plant tissue, damages the roots in 2–3 days, and within three days the stems and leaves turn yellow and dry out.

The drug "Vulcan" does not lose effectiveness when diluted with technical water, when used in hot weather, in rainy weather.

To treat a raspberry patch with an area of one hundred square meters, you will need from 20 to 60 ml of the substance.

"Ataman"

A systemic herbicide, which is supplied to the market by a Ukrainian company specializing in the production of plant protection products, suppresses all processes occurring in weed tissues. “Ataman” is sprayed over the surface of leaves and stems, but also destroys the roots. The effect of pesticide treatment, which is carried out in early spring and after harvesting, is noticeable after a few days. “Ataman” copes with perennial weeds, acts as a desiccant and accelerates the ripening of crops.

"Buran"

The continuous-action chemical preparation is not dangerous for bees, animals, microorganisms living in the soil, but copes well with dicotyledonous annual and perennial weeds, wild shrubs.

When spraying the herbicide "Buran", the composition from the leaves spreads to the growing point and affects the roots. One treatment with the product is enough to destroy weeds over a large area. The drug decomposes quickly, but does not penetrate into the seeds through the soil.

"Dominator 360"

The pesticide, produced in the form of a solution, contains glyphosate, which is quickly absorbed by the above-ground parts of plants. The substance destroys tissues and damages roots:

"Dominator-360" is sprayed before planting shrubs, vines, and sowing agricultural crops.

After treatment with herbicide, perennial weeds live no more than two weeks.

"Cosmic"

Based on the isopropylamine salt of glyphosate, an effective pesticide is produced that is compatible with most weed control chemicals. “Cosmik” is not washed off by rain, quickly decomposes in the ground, and does not accumulate in the stems and leaves of agricultural crops.

You can plant shrubs and sow seeds 2 weeks after treatment. The herbicide does not pose a danger to bacteria and worms living in the soil.

"Hurricane Forte"

Effectively fights weeds, removes creeping wheatgrass and sow thistle, a Swiss drug that acts in any weather, getting through the leaves into plant tissue, stopping biochemical processes, accumulating in the meristem.

When opening the Hurricane Forte package, the substance is mixed in 2 liters of water, and after watering the area, the solution is sprayed onto the weeds. Weeds stop growing after two days, die after 10–14 days, and glyphosate breaks down into individual components. The herbicide is recommended to be used in early spring before the emergence of cultivated plants.

"Chistopol"

To cultivate land for planting fruit bushes, farmers use a continuous-action preparation, the result of which is noticeable several days after spraying.

“Chistopol” is sold in plastic bottles; 30 ml is dissolved in 5 liters of water and is used to treat cereals and broad-leaved weeds. The dosage is doubled when sprayed on perennial plants.

Tornado

The best remedy for weeds and grass, allowing you to get rid of them forever in gardens and vineyards, is used against perennials and annuals. The drug has a continuous effect. Shows itself well in the fight against cattails, wheatgrass, reeds, bindweed, and so on. The tornado affects all parts of the culture, spreading through capillaries.

Within a week, the weeds will begin to die out. If you follow the instructions, the product does not pose a threat to either normal plants or people. You can start sowing 4 days after treatment.

The product does not accumulate in fruits and roots and does not change the structure of the soil. If the area is slightly clogged, it can be used once.

How to dilute Tornado for use in the country is indicated in the instructions. The manufacturer indicates the following:

Soft water is used for dilution. The resulting solution should be used immediately and not stored.
In the garden and vineyard, the row spacing is treated, approximately 15 ml of Tornado per liter of water.
Before planting, the weeds are sprayed with a solution of 15 ml of the drug mixed with 1 liter of water.
For roadsides or removing weeds from paths, you can take a more concentrated solution: from 20 ml/l.
To combat weeds that have grown into bushes, 1 liter of water is mixed with 40 ml of the drug.

The price of the drug is about 1.4 thousand rubles per 500 ml.

Review of the most effective drugs

The market is full of herbicide offers, the most popular are soil herbicides. Several of the most commonly used tools can be identified in this category.

Arsenal

Works great for the future, for example, for processing virgin soil. It stands out among other drugs because it has a prolonged spectrum of action and does not induce immunity in plants for 4-5 years. Today it remains one of the most effective options for processing industrial-scale sites.

Glyphosate

Contains phosphoric acid derivatives. Regular use reduces, and over time completely stops, the synthesis of amino acids. Recognized as the most effective in the fight against perennial dicotyledonous and cereal weeds. It is recommended to treat the area during the period of active growth of unwanted vegetation and after full harvest. Suitable for processing:

vineyards;
tea and citrus plantations;
fruit plantings;
areas where it is necessary to stop the growth of weeds.

Grader

A non-selective drug with a high content of active imazapyr. It has a wide spectrum of action, is completely universal and 100% effective. Complete destruction of unwanted crops can be observed within 7-10 days after using the product. The application is intended for large areas.

Roundup

It is considered a unique, universal and most commonly used continuous action herbicide. Contains glyphosta potassium salts. This element is quickly absorbed by the plant and transported to the root system, thereby ensuring rapid and 100% death of the weed. It is not fussy to use and can be used at any above-zero temperature and air humidity.

Tornado

Considering the high concentration of the active substance in this herbicide, it can rightfully be called the most economical weed killer. It copes well with dicotyledonous and cereal weeds, and tree-shrub vegetation. A significant positive difference between Tornado is its complete versatility. This product can be safely used for both annual and perennial weeds.

Torch

Favorable combination of price and quality. It is a systemic herbicide; when it reaches any part of the weed, it destroys not only the waxy coating, but also spreads throughout all parts and organs of the plant. It disrupts the synthesis of amino acids and ensures the complete death of both the above-ground part and the root system of the weed. The Torch has a particularly rapid effect on the hydrophytic group of weeds. Soil seeding can be done within 7 days after treatment. The product has no residual effects. Can be used to protect any crops.

Instructions for using Lapis lazuli

In order not to be left without a harvest when using lapis lazuli, you need to understand that this drug helps the gardener get rid of weeds that take away nutrition from the potatoes and suppress their growth and development. However, it is not a fertilizer. If there are not enough nutrients in the soil, then the harvest will not please even in the absence of weeds. Treating potatoes against weeds is not a fertilizer. On sandy, thin soils, this drug does not have a visible effect.

In order to correctly and effectively use herbicides against weeds on potatoes, it is important to have a clean field and follow the instructions for use of the drug. From the user manual it will become clear:

processing time;
concentration of the drug used;
drug consumption for single and double treatment;
waiting time for the drug to act;
safety measures when working with the chemical and its hazard class.

The question of how to get rid of weeds in a potato field has been resolved. Herbicide applied to the soil on time destroys not only the first weeds, but also maintains the cleanliness of the field until the second wave, suppressing its development. In the future, the tops on the potato bed will close together, and annual weeds will no longer have time to develop. Minimum doses when treating potatoes against weeds are recommended for early varieties of root crops. The greatest consumption should be on dense clay soil when cultivating late potatoes.

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The calculated consumption of the diluted substance used by spraying is:

for potatoes 200 - 300 liters per hectare;
on tomato seedlings – 500 l/ha;
on tomatoes from seeds – 300 – 400 l/ha.

This does not require dilution of the mother solution. The drug was obtained with nanoparticles and is perfectly soluble in water with vigorous stirring. The solution is used, like all herbicides for weeds on potatoes, in freshly prepared form. Lapis lazuli is the only herbicide approved for use on private farms and for summer residents.

As a result of the use of lapis lazuli, the soil is freed from weeds for a long period. However, this is not its only useful effect. In the absence of quinoa as a result of treating potatoes for weeds, during cold weather, potato bushes are less susceptible to late blight, which significantly reduces the yield and impairs the storage of root crops. The disease begins to develop on weeds.

How to get rid of young growth

According to the rules of agricultural technology, the place of raspberries must be changed after five years, otherwise the berries become smaller and the harvest falls off. Young bushes are planted in another area, and old ones are destroyed along with the shoots. But every spring, unnecessary shoots jump out of the ground again. The regrowth of shoots from roots and replacement shoots is a normal process and biological feature for raspberries. When planting any variety, you have to regularly fight the growth. Why? For a berry grower, shoots are not just a weed, but also their worst enemy, taking away food and reducing productivity. It takes away half the nutrients, and the berry begins to shrink and its taste deteriorates. The grown shoots shade the raspberries, they are poorly ventilated and illuminated by the sun, and fungal diseases appear on them more quickly. Removing the shoots enhances the growth of the central replacement shoots, and the bush gains strength. Removal of weeds is treated with care; this is task No. 1 for a gardener.

So how to destroy raspberries? You don't have to run it to solve the problem. Young growth is easier and easier to remove. At the beginning of spring, young shoots that have popped up are trimmed with a shovel, trying not to disturb the roots of the main bush. It is difficult to grow raspberries, but it is necessary to deal with unnecessary shoots.

In early spring, the area is carefully dug up, and shoots and roots are removed from the soil.

Digging up a plot of raspberries

After some time, the operation is repeated. If you simply mow or cut down the growth, it will grow back with a vengeance. Although some people manage to get rid of unnecessary raspberries in this way, you must be prepared for the fact that you need to make a lot of effort: you will have to mow very often and do it below the growth bud at the very base of the shoots.

Gardeners are trying to suppress raspberry growth by planting a vegetable garden with potatoes, carrots and tomatoes in this place. Ultimately, this method will not complete the task. The amount of growth may decrease, but it will not disappear completely. When choosing what to plant, they give preference to green manures over green manures. They grow quickly and can choke and stop the growth of raspberries.

If there is no time and desire to do mechanical work to remove unnecessary growth, the area is sprayed with herbicides. The chemical Roundup works especially well on unwanted raspberry bushes. This is a continuous herbicide: it is often used in the fight against weeds in both country and garden plots. But you will have to use it several times for raspberries. They carefully treat the bushes and the soil around them. Tornado, Alaz, Hurricane, Glifovit have a similar effect.

The answer to the question of how to grow raspberries so that they do not grow at all includes a whole range of measures: mechanical and chemical. A wild area with raspberries is uprooted in order to plant other crops in this place. The raspberries are planted in a new place. But it is difficult to remove old woody shoots. During the work, the bushes are cut down, the soil is dug up, and the roots are taken out of the ground. The most convenient time for such an activity is spring.

Raspberry bushes are cut down with an ax or shovel.

As a rule, branches are not cut down at the root so that they can be grabbed and pulled out of the ground when digging. This makes it easier to pull out the entire rhizome without leaving small roots in the ground

. Even if you are confident that the work has been done efficiently, you will not be able to get rid of the second digging. It is needed to make sure that next spring not a single raspberry shoot will come out of the ground, and the work will not have to be repeated.

If the garden plot is planned for construction, you can take digging easier. In this case, salt is added to the soil in the fall. It should be sprinkled evenly over the surface or simply pour salted brine over the raspberries.

Using salt against raspberries

You can enhance the effect if you pour a vinegar solution onto the shoots. But this is only for permanent buildings. A gazebo or other recreation area is short-lived and can be moved to another location after a few years. Then cultivated plants will be planted here again, and acid can damage the soil for a long time.

Beginning gardeners and young summer residents often ask how to uproot raspberries correctly.

Work on uprooting raspberries is carried out in stages:

The shoots are cut with pruning shears;

Cutting raspberries with pruning shears

Carry out deep digging and sampling of roots;
If there is no time for repeated digging, the emerging shoots are treated with herbicides.

You need to know that herbicides will remove the above-ground part of the plants, but the roots will remain in the ground, and they will still need to be removed.

Types of weed and grass killers in the garden by type of action

Before giving preference to a specific remedy, you need to understand how to get rid of grass in the garden. Herbicides are classified according to their composition (organic/chemical), as well as the spectrum of their effect on weeds:

continuous action - eliminates all types of plants;
selective action - affect a certain group of plant organisms, leaving other species untouched.

Depending on the nature of their effect, drugs are:

systemic - aimed at disrupting growth and photosynthesis due to penetration through leaves and coleoptiles;
contact - they burn the leaves, destroy chlorophyll, thereby provoking the death of vegetation.

No. 1. Continuous herbicides

A product in this category, designed to remove weeds, is selected with an emphasis on the contaminated area

It is also important to determine the type of grass

The selected herbicide is used against perennial weeds for:

clearing the vegetable garden and garden between the rows (beds) of weeds;
weed control on agricultural plots, which involves treating the area before sowing;
eliminating weeds in the cemetery, near highways, adjacent areas, parks, etc.;
destroying algae deposits to facilitate the passage of the vessel.

It is worth remembering that the drugs are aimed at destroying all types of vegetation. Processing is carried out strictly according to the instructions in compliance with safety rules.

No. 2. Selective herbicides

It is the products of this group that are most often used to save from weeds when cultivating land in the garden. They are effective in cases where the type of weed is precisely determined. The action is aimed at specific varieties, as a result of which cultivated plants do not suffer.

There are several ways to process the area:

irrigation of the vegetative part of the plant;
application to the soil.

This group of drugs is relatively safe. In case of minor contamination, preference is given to selective compositions.

Weed control in raspberry plantations

Before planting raspberries, it is necessary to thoroughly till the soil using continuous action herbicides. In this way it is possible to get rid of perennial weeds. As the bushes grow, the soil between the rows is cultivated with a cultivator. This allows not only to maintain its optimal structure and air conditions, but also to eliminate weeds. The same applies to mulching the soil with manure, sawdust or straw. If such treatment is carried out in the spring immediately after the snow has melted, this will increase the fertility of the soil, preserve it from moisture evaporation and create an optimal temperature regime to prevent the growth of weeds.

Treatment of raspberries with selective herbicides is becoming increasingly popular. Their use allows for more dense planting of crops, increasing the volume of the harvest or saving area. Selective herbicides do not need to be used throughout the entire area. It is enough to process only the rows, and carry out mechanical or manual weeding between the rows.

The effectiveness of herbicides on raspberry plantings depends on a number of factors: the mechanical composition of the soil, humus content, humidity, species composition of weeds, their quantity, as well as weather conditions. It is important to strictly adhere to the dosage, since some drugs can slow down the development of the culture.

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Herbicide Totril

The main competitors for the full development of onion and garlic crops are annual broad-leaved weeds. To rid crops of these unwanted plants, a selective post-emergence contact herbicide, Totril, has been developed.

Characteristics of Totril

The active substance of Totril is ioxynil, which belongs to the chemical class of nitriles. Its concentration in the herbicide is 225 g/l.

The herbicide Totril is produced in the form of an emulsion concentrate. It goes on sale in plastic 5-liter canisters.

Mechanism of action

The herbicidal action of Totril is carried out through the leaves. Ioxynil, penetrating into the weeds, stops the processes of photosynthesis. Under favorable conditions - soil and air humidity, lighting, air temperature above +10°C, the herbicidal effect is noticeably accelerated. After just a few hours, you can observe the first signs of its effective action: the leaves begin to gradually change their color and fade. The final death of the weeds occurs after 7-15 days.

Basic recommendations for the use of Totril

Spraying should not be carried out less than 6 hours before precipitation. If, however, partial washing off of the Totril solution occurs, then repeated spraying should not be carried out, since this may cause damage to the crops;
It is not recommended to spray crops that have undergone a stressful condition: fungal diseases, invasion of harmful insects, adverse weather conditions, such as frost or drought;
During the first week from the moment of treatment, inter-row treatments cannot be carried out;
The herbicide cannot be used indoors;
Totril is not recommended for use in tank mixtures together with other preparations intended to protect cultivated plants.

Benefits of Totril herbicide

Effectively acts on most harmful dicotyledonous weeds;
The period of application is quite wide - from 2 to 6 leaves for the treated crops;
Totril herbicide can be applied in several doses;
Has no soil aftereffect;
Not phytotoxic to crops.

Instructions for use

The crops are treated with a freshly prepared working solution of the herbicide Totril. Work is best done in the morning or evening. To prevent the substance from being sprayed onto neighboring crops, treatment must be carried out in calm, windless weather.

Post-emergence contact herbicide for protecting onion and garlic crops from annual broad-leaved weeds.

Ioxynil in the form of octanoate ether, 225 g/l

Preparative form: emulsion concentrate

Totril 225 EC is a reliable product for post-emergence control of annual dicotyledonous weeds in onion and garlic crops, developed specifically for the protection of these crops.

Totril 225 EC is a selective and highly effective post-emergence contact herbicide that acts only through the leaf surface.

The active ingredient Totril 225 EC - ioxynil - belongs to the chemical group of nitriles and suppresses photosynthesis processes in weeds. Its effectiveness increases in conditions where photosynthesis is promoted: at temperatures above 10°C, good lighting, air and soil humidity.

The herbicidal effect is noticeable within a few hours after spraying. Weed leaves turn yellow and die. Complete death occurs after 8-15 days, sometimes after 3 weeks.

DO NOT spray less than 4-6 hours before rain. DO NOT spray plants that are weakened, damaged by pests or diseases, or during periods of extreme heat or cold weather, drought, or strong winds. Do not carry out inter-row treatments for a week after spraying. Do not use indoors. Do not use in tank mixes.

Bow of all generations (except for bow on feather).

Spraying in the 2-6 leaf phase.

Consumption rate: 1.5-3.0 l/ha.

Partial method. The first spraying is in the phase of 1-2 leaves of the crop.

Consumption rate: 1.0-1.5 l/ha.

The second spraying is as the weeds grow.

Consumption rate: 1.0-1.5 l/ha.

Quarter method. The first spraying is in the phase 1 leaf of the crop.

Consumption rate - 0.7 l/ha.

The second, third and fourth spraying - at intervals of 7-8 days with a consumption rate of 0.7 l/ha.

Garlic (for cloves). Treatment in the phase of 2-3 leaves of the crop.

Consumption rate: 1.5-2.0 l/ha.

Winter garlic (except for garlic on the feather).

Treatment in the phase of 2-3 leaves of the crop.

Consumption rate: 1.5-3.0 l/ha.

Active influence on the most harmful dicotyledonous weeds. Wide “window” of application - from 2 to 6 leaves of the crop. Flexibility of application - possibility of application in several steps. No soil aftereffect.

Protecting raspberries from weeds and diseases. Polish experience

Weeds

The soil herbicide Devrinol 45, grade s., registered in Ukraine only for tomatoes (in the process of registration for rapeseed), is also used. or its analogue (active napropamide, 450 g/l) Colzamid. In Poland, these preparations are applied once a season, 3-4 l/ha when planting a plantation and 5-6 l/ha in plantings aged 1 year and older.

After germination, mono- and dicotyledonous weeds are treated with glyphosates (360 g/l) at a rate of 3-8 l/ha or their mixture with MCPA 300 g/l. In the latter case, 5 l/ha of glyphosate and 2.5 l/ha of MCPA are applied in dry weather at a temperature not lower than 10°C. Of course, these preparations are sprayed only between rows, so they use sprayers with special protective restrictions that prevent the herbicide from reaching the crop.

Diseases

In organic berry growing, the bacterial preparation Polyversum WP is used against these diseases at a rate of 0.2 kg/ha twice with an interval of 14 days, starting from the stage when young shoots reach a height of 15-20 cm.

Among the additional measures against the above-mentioned diseases are recommended:

Zato 50 WG, Luna Experience and Luna Sensation are recommended against raspberry rust. At the same time, it is advised to choose the most resistant varieties possible, adhere to the correct planting scheme, promptly destroy weeds and excess young shoots, remove affected shoots, and destroy wild blackberries around the plantation.

Against powdery mildew of raspberries, the preparations Armicarb SP or Karbicure SP (active potassium bicarbonate (bicarbonate) 850 g/kg) with a rate of 5 kg/ha 6 times with an interval of 8 days and without a waiting period, or a number of local preparations, effective . which is 80% sulfur, at a rate of 3-5 k/ha 4 times with an interval of 7-10 days and a waiting period of 7 days. At the same time, they are reminded of the need to pluck and destroy affected leaves, to avoid excessive thickening and contamination of the plantation and nitrogen nutrition in accordance with the needs of the plant.

In the flowering phase, Signum, Luna Sensation, Switch, Topsin M, Sadoplon 75 WP, Yamato 303 CE, as well as a range of contact fungicides based on active ingredients are recommended against a complex of diseases that cause the death of shoots and against gray mold. pyrimethanil, which has an average risk of resistance:

Also used against these diseases:

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Advantages of the drug

Using the herbicide on their plots and fields, gardeners highlight the strengths of the drug. Based on their reviews, we can conclude that the herbicide has more advantages than disadvantages:

Highly effective against a wide range of weeds, including shrubs and young trees.
Due to the increased concentration of the active ingredient, it is characterized by rapid action.
Leads to the complete death of the aboveground part of the weeds and the death of their root system.
Does not have a negative effect on the seed material of cultivated plants planted after processing the site.
Not sensitive to low and high air temperatures.

Description of the best drugs

Today, there are many effective drugs on sale that are used to treat fields and summer cottages.

"Cosmic"

This effective product is produced based on the isopropylamine salt of glyphosate. It is compatible with most chemicals that are used to kill weeds. The drug is not washed off by precipitation and decomposes in the soil in a short time. The composition does not accumulate in the stems and foliage of cultivated plants.

It is permissible to plant raspberries a couple of weeks after treatment. The herbicide does not pose a danger to worms and beneficial bacteria that live in the soil.

"Buran"

This chemical has a continuous effect

When applying the herbicide "Buran", the substance from the foliage gets to the growth point, affecting the root system. Just one treatment of plantings with the composition helps destroy weeds over large areas. The composition decomposes in a short time, but does not enter the seeds through the ground.

"Glisol"

The product is absorbed by plant foliage and helps suppress the production of amino acids and flavonoids. The substance moves along the stems to the root system.

After treatment with the drug, many plants die within 3 weeks. In cold or rainy weather the composition acts much more slowly.

The substance is sold in the form of an aqueous solution that includes a glyphosate salt. The drug does not cause environmental pollution and does not affect planting material. It is necessary to cultivate the beds in dry weather. This is done on calm days.

"Chistopol"

This remedy has a continuous effect. The first result can be noticed within a few days after processing the plantings. "Chistopol" is sold in plastic containers.

To use the composition, you need to take 30 milliliters of the substance per 5 liters of water. The prepared solution is used to treat cereals and broadleaf weeds. When affecting perennials, the dosage must be doubled.

"Arsenal"

"Arsenal" is a continuous action herbicide, effective against the destruction of annual and perennial cereal plants, trees and shrubs in non-agricultural areas.

Weather conditions do not affect the effectiveness of the drug. After spraying, leaves and roots absorb the herbicide within one hour.

This continuous action weed poison can be absorbed not only through the roots and leaves, but also through the soil. As a result, the processing period increases from early spring to late autumn. Arsenal is used once every 2-3 years, since high results last for more than one year.

Important! A distinctive feature of this herbicide is that it can destroy plants even if they are covered with oily substances or a layer of dust.

The spray tank must be filled ⅓ full with water and slowly, stirring, add the product until the container is full. The finished solution is used immediately after its preparation

The area should be treated with the stirrer turned on inside the tank; after finishing work, it should be thoroughly rinsed with water.

Content

The most commonly used herbicide active ingredients
TOP 5 effective groups of herbicides for gardening and vegetable gardens
1. Agrokiller / Tornado / Roundup / Glyphos, etc.
2. Lintur/Weeding
3. Gazontrel/ Lontrel/ /Lornet/ Hacker and others.
4. Deimos
5. Miura / Excellent student / Forward / Hunter and others.
As a conclusion

This material provides a comparative analysis of the TOP-5 effective groups of herbicides (by chemical composition/active ingredient, purpose, dosage, and application features).

Herbicides are widely used not only in agriculture for the protection of cultivated plants and cleaning of irrigation systems, but also the sides of roads, railways, etc.

Recently, gardeners have been actively using herbicides to protect strawberry plantings from weeds, clear garden paths and lawns of plantain, dandelions, bindweed, and treat the perimeters of areas along fences from unwanted herbaceous vegetation.

Many questions arise, and so on, in order.

Which herbicides are best for weeds?

The following drugs are included in the rating of popular herbicides:

Tornado is a universal composition in the fight against many types of weeds and is ideal for soil treatment before sowing.
Tornado bau. This is a continuous action herbicide, ready for use and is marketed already in a spray bottle. Convenient for small processing areas, for example, around decorative paths or along a fence.
Agrokiller. The highly concentrated composition is a continuous herbicide that allows you to remove particularly “malicious” weeds, such as horsetail, wheatgrass, and bindweed.
Lontrel-zood is a selective herbicide suitable for treating lawns and strawberry plantings. Excellent for controlling dandelions.
Lapis lazuli is a selective herbicide used for potatoes and in areas with other tuber plantings. Helps suppress weed growth, but does not accumulate in tubers, providing protection for the next 1–2 months.

Which drug is better to choose?

In European countries that supply raspberries to the market, they use chemicals that have a selective effect. “Stomp” is considered one of the most effective herbicides used to treat fruit bush plantations. Product manufactured by BASF:

Destroys various weeds.
Guarantees long lasting effect.
Does not require rapid loosening of the soil.
It is resistant to ultraviolet rays.

To combat annual grasses, you can use “Select”, which is used to treat raspberries when 3 leaves appear. It is recommended to spray the row spaces with glyphosates such as Roundup, Vulcan, and Hurricane Forte.

Instructions for use

The poison must be diluted immediately before use. Take enamel, plastic or ceramic containers for these purposes. You should not take metal, as the chemical elements of the drugs may interact with it. Dilute the drug with water according to the instructions, stir thoroughly. For weeds with strong roots, the concentration of poison can be increased. Immediately after dilution, the solution is poured into a spray bottle and the area is irrigated.

This procedure is carried out twice on a warm, windless day - in the morning and in the evening. A couple of days before the procedure, the soil needs to be watered abundantly. After irrigation, nothing should be done on the site for two weeks; watering should be avoided so that the product is not washed away by water.

Be sure to use personal protective equipment when coming into contact with poisons. Useful crops on the field must be covered with film to prevent the ingress of toxic substances.

Fighting wheatgrass in the garden with a bite

Vinegar is a kind of “killer” for wheatgrass. This is a very effective and efficient remedy.

Take:

3.8 l 20% vinegar
Half a glass of salt
1 tsp detergent

Wheatgrass vinegar

The actions are:

Mix the ingredients
When it's dry outside, treat the weeds with a solution in the morning

By the way, 9% vinegar is also suitable for spraying. You need to pour it into a spray bottle and spray the weeds with it. But this method is effective only for annual plants. But in wheatgrass it only removes the greenery and weakens the root.

"Lapis lazuli"

Selective herbicides are also used quite often to control weeds. "Lazurit" is a drug designed to control weeds in areas where potatoes are planted.

A distinctive feature of Lazurit is that it destroys weeds selectively, without having a negative effect on potatoes.

You can treat the area immediately after planting the potato tubers; for 1 hectare, 10 g of solution per 3 liters of water is enough. This herbicide is absorbed mainly by the root system, which allows you to destroy both vegetative weeds and seedlings in the soil, as well as prevent the emergence of new ones.

Did you know? If the potato tops have grown to 5 cm, and the weeds have filled the entire area, it is possible to treat with herbicide.

How to care for raspberries: mulching, weed control

How to care for raspberries? In the first two years after planting, until the raspberry plants have become stronger and have mastered the soil allotted to them, care must be careful to get a good harvest. Weeds should be strictly controlled. One way to achieve this control is to mulch the soil between the rows. Without doing this, you will have to weed the rows throughout the summer. While the roots of the bush have not yet grown, caring for raspberries is not difficult. But weeding will take a lot of time if you have a large raspberry patch. You can loosen between plants with a pitchfork, hoe, or rake without fear of damaging the roots. At the very roots, weeding is carried out more carefully. The raspberry shoots that appear between the rows are dealt with in the same way as with weeds - they are pulled out. But it all depends on your goals. You can leave the offspring if you decide to use them as planting material.

How to control weeds in raspberries? After watering, the ground around the raspberry seedlings is covered with peat (straw manure, sawdust) in a layer of 5-8 cm or covered with a special covering material for mulching (it is usually black), making holes 5-10 cm in diameter for the stems of the seedlings.

In the second year, in the spring, the entire area of the raspberry tree is mulched, bringing the layer of loosely lying mulching materials to 15-20 cm.

Why are weeds difficult to eradicate mechanically?

There are several thousand species of weeds. There are 1,500 of them in the CIS countries alone. Each weed has properties that ensure its active spread and survival. Here are just a few of them:

deep and powerful roots, uprooting which is a very difficult task even for one plant (sow thistle, burdock);
developed rhizome, capable of producing a new plant from any small piece (wheatgrass);
accelerated breeding cycle, when three generations or more replace each season (chickweed);
extraordinary fertility: some weeds produce up to 100 thousand seeds on one plant (wormwood) during the planting period.

Weeds easily take over new areas of land
Five weeds that only herbicides will destroy:

Thistle has a powerful root and spiny stems. It is very difficult to uproot.
Quinoa is not afraid of any unfavorable factors, it takes deep roots and reaches a height of up to half a meter or more. It can only be eradicated with herbicides.
Creeping wheatgrass has a developed rhizome and produces up to 10,000 seeds that germinate in two weeks, so it is extremely difficult to control. In addition to its own aggressive spread, it attracts harmful insects, for example, the Hessian fly, the larvae of which “suck out” the leaves of cereal plants.
There is no use in weeding out the whine. Even a small piece of rhizome will produce new shoots.
Chickweed or chickweed produces three to four generations over the summer, and eradicating it is work for the entire gardening period.

Hogweed juice causes burns

How to protect a plot from raspberries

If raspberries are sprouting in the adjacent area, but the neighbors do not plan to get rid of them, it is recommended to install a special fence. For this purpose it is used:

solid insulating material;
cordon of some plant species.

Raspberry roots are able to break through fragile materials (roofing felt, for example). For fencing the site, preference is given to sheets of slate or rubber tires from a car.

Restrictors are buried in the soil along the perimeter of the growth of berry plantings to protect other garden or vegetable crops from them. Another use is to protect your own plot from the roots of neighboring raspberries.

The depth of the vertical room of the insulator layers is 60-70 cm. Values up to 100 cm are allowed so that the raspberry roots do not pass under the border.

Another popular option is to plant sorrel, corn, parsley or garlic bushes along the growth cordon. Raspberries do not like such a neighborhood and will not cross the plants. Green manure fertilizers effectively suppress the growth of young raspberry shoots.

Types and effects of herbicides

Herbicides are divided according to their chemical composition into organic and inorganic preparations. In addition, they are also classified according to their area of application.

Preparations that are used for all types of plants are called continuous action preparations.

There are also selective - selective drugs that destroy a certain type of weed, without posing a danger to other crops.

Also, according to the mechanism of action, herbicides are divided into systemic ones - those that enter the plant through the leaves, and at the same time destroy the natural processes of growth and development of the plant, and there are contact herbicides that act locally, causing burns in areas of the plant, after which the weed dies on its own.

Also, the drug can be prepared in different concentrations, resulting in a solution of either a continuous effect, which will have a detrimental effect on all weeds, as well as a weaker solution that causes selective destruction of vegetation.

Continuous action drugs

There are a huge number of drugs that have a continuous effect on the destruction of weeds. Before you buy a drug, you need to familiarize yourself with the composition of each of them, as well as your own weeds. Determine the advantage of a particular type of weed, as well as the degree of infestation of the plantation.

These preparations of mass action on all vegetation are most often used preliminarily for soil treatment before planting plantations in large-scale agriculture. Gardeners use them on their plots in areas where there are no plantings - between rows, barbecue areas, etc. Continuous exposure drugs are used in parks and cultural gardens; they are also used near major highways, in cemeteries, and in areas near houses. With the help of continuous herbicides, algae are destroyed in areas where ships actively navigate. In general, where any vegetation is not needed.

Selective drugs

These drugs are already used for a certain type of weed. Their effect is selective, which makes it possible to use these products on summer cottages, and also on agricultural lands to kill weeds.

How to use herbicides

There are different ways to use such herbicides. They can be applied directly to the soil; the plants themselves can be treated with a solution of the drug at the initial stage of their growth.

It should be noted that a herbicide is a chemical that has a very strong effect, so the choice of the drug should be treated as responsibly as the method of application, its frequency, and one should not forget about one’s own safety measures.

Kinds

Continuous action herbicides, they eliminate vegetation in the entire treated area. They are used to clear an area for subsequent sowing of a lawn or to cultivate overgrown soil, and then make beds. You just need to spray the leaves with a solution of a chemical substance and after 2-3 weeks all the grasses and their roots will dry out. Substances that have an increased concentration are used on neglected lands or to remove particularly harmful weeds, for example, hogweed. Such chemicals are active and are used to eliminate all vegetation. For example, these herbicides are used when it is necessary to remove weeds from railroad tracks.
Selective herbicides destroy weeds, some specifically remove dandelions, leaving lawns untouched, while others, for example, eliminate weeds in potato plantings. Such products do not harm certain beneficial plants due to the fact that they do not penetrate their thickened skin, or they contain insufficiently strong chemicals. They also act because of the morphological differences between weeds and beneficial plants. When chemicals enter plants, they move differently.
Systemic herbicides get inside and spread with the weed juice throughout all parts of the plant. Systemic agents act more intensively due to the fact that they completely destroy weeds - their above-ground and underground parts. They may be the only way to eliminate particularly stubborn weeds, such as creeping wheatgrass.
Contact herbicides only affect the areas they are applied to and cannot move within the crop. Some substances penetrate only into the leaves and stems, while others eliminate the root system or affect the surrounding soil, or all of this together. They are added to the soil before sowing or after sprouts appear.
Based on their action, a distinction is made between graminicides, which eliminate weeds when sowing cereals, and anti-cereal herbicides.

Methods to combat bindweed

Mechanical.

The most well-known way to get rid of loaches is regular weeding, carried out in a timely manner. In this case, the main task is to prevent this weed from spreading across the field. It is also necessary to ensure that its seeds do not ripen. Bindweed should be removed from the field as early as possible.

Deep plowing of the soil can also help in the fight against this weed. But it will be effective only if everything, even the smallest roots, is removed from the ground. To dig up the area, it is recommended to use pitchforks rather than shovels. The latter will be able to keep the bindweed root system intact, therefore, there will not even be small pieces of roots left in the ground that can give life to a new plant.

If the area where the bindweed has grown is not very large, agronomists advise using roofing material or black film - it is enough to cover the soil with it to prevent sunlight from reaching the weed plant. For the same purposes, you can use ordinary straw covered with boards on top. Such a shelter must be kept on the site throughout the entire season in order to achieve complete clearance of the soil from this weed the next year. Some agronomists prefer to combine this method with planting large plants that have a powerful root system, which can not only compete with bindweed for nutrients in the soil, but also release substances into the surrounding soil that can speed up the process of decomposition of the weed roots.

Biological.

These methods of getting rid of bindweed in a potato field include sowing green manure - plants that can improve the soil structure and suppress the growth of weeds. Their dense foliage, which creates shade, and a powerful root system make it possible to get rid of bindweed in one or two seasons. Many agronomists sow fescue, bluegrass and other meadow perennials in their fields to create dense turf. The bindweed does not have enough strength to break through, so it gradually becomes weaker and eventually dies.

You can limit the spread of this weed throughout the area by surface composting or simply mulching with a thick layer of organic matter. Sawdust, chopped straw, chaff and any other bulk material that can lie tightly on the ground are suitable for this. The only problem is the size of the plot - the larger the area of soil cultivated in this way, the more costs its owner will incur.

Chemical.

You can also get rid of bindweed in your garden and potato field by using modern herbicides. Their action is aimed at suppressing the growth and then the complete destruction of weeds. Herbicides can cause weed death in two ways.

The first is the effect on the above-ground part of the plant. But, as a rule, a positive result from treatment can be observed only during one season - despite the fact that the flowers and leaves of the weed have died, its root system contains a large supply of nutrients. And with the onset of next year, bindweed seedlings appear in the fields again.

How to properly process raspberries

When using folk remedies or biochemistry for preventive spraying of shoots and soil, follow the rules:

processing is carried out in calm, sunny weather (not hot and dry);
recommended: use a respirator and gloves;
follow the instructions and recipe.

Treating raspberries with copper sulfate

Copper sulfate CuSO4 (copper sulfate) is used to combat fungal and viral diseases of raspberries: curl, anthracnose, septoria, spotting. For raspberries, it is most often recommended to use a 0.5–1.0 percent solution to treat the shoots and the soil around them. To do this, dilute 50 g or 100 g of the substance per 10 liters of water at room temperature. One bush requires 0.5–1 liters of this solution for spraying or 1–1.5 liters for watering at the root.

1.5–2 liters of liquid solution of copper sulfate is enough to treat a raspberry bush.

This drug is a preventive remedy and is not a panacea for raspberry diseases. In addition, copper sulfate is poisonous, so it is not treated with it during the growing season - it accumulates in the berries and the crop becomes inedible after spraying.

Treating raspberries with iron sulfate

Iron sulfate is iron sulfate, the powder of which is used to control pests on raspberries (slugs, larvae), fungal spores, mosses, and lichens. In addition, this drug is a catalyst in the formation of chlorophyll. In raspberry fields, this is the first enemy for chlorosis and anthracnose.

In the spring, after pruning dry and damaged branches, the plant is dug up and fertilized with cow manure or chicken droppings with the addition of iron sulfate powder - 100 g of the substance per 10 kg of fertilizer.

To get rid of fungal diseases, dissolve 250 g of iron sulfate in 10 liters of water at room temperature and spray the plants (200–400 g per bush).

Autumn treatment is carried out after the leaves fall. To prevent lichens and moss from annoying the berry beds, the lower part of the shoots (15–20 cm) is covered with a solution of iron sulfate - 100–150 g per 10-liter bucket of water. This amount is enough for an entire raspberry plantation.

A proven preventative against fungi and lichens on raspberries - iron sulfate

Processing raspberries with boiling water in spring

When sap flow has not yet begun, at the end of winter or early spring, raspberry bushes are watered with boiling water - the most cost-effective, but labor-intensive way to get rid of pest larvae overwintering in the soil of the raspberry field. The easiest way to process remontant raspberries in this way is to cut them flush with the ground for the winter, so less hot water and effort for watering will be required.

10 liters of boiling water is carefully poured using a garden watering can with a nozzle. At the same time, they try to ensure that hot water gets to the upper part of the shoots and root space, to the soil around the bush.

Treatment with boiling water will require effort - a watering can filled with water should be raised high above the bush to capture the entire above-ground part of the shoots

Spraying raspberries with urea in spring

Urea (urea - carbonic acid diamide) helps against diseases (spotting, rust, anthracnose) and pests that are still at the wintering stage (raspberry beetle larvae, glassfly butterflies), so treatment is carried out in early spring before the plant begins to grow. To do this, take a concentrated solution - 400–500 g of the substance per 10 liters of water and spray it. This quantity can be used to process 10 acres of raspberries.

Processing raspberries with Bordeaux mixture

A universal remedy for comprehensive protection of berry crops from diseases is Bordeaux mixture. The preparation contains copper sulfate and quicklime in a concentration of 1:1, and is a blue liquid. The product is effective against anthracnose, powdery mildew, and various types of spotting on raspberries. At the same time, the drug is toxic, so it is allowed to treat plants with copper-containing products in early spring or late autumn.

The finished preparation of Bordeaux mixture is used to treat most fruit and berry crops in the garden plot

Before the buds open, the affected bushes can be treated with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture (300 g of ready-made solution per 10 liters of water) with the addition of a 2% solution of potassium salt.

To prevent the spread of infectious diseases, it is best to carry out treatment with Bordeaux mixture in the autumn - late September - early October. The finished solution is filtered and processed in dry, windless weather.

You can prepare Bordeaux mixture yourself. To do this, buy slaked lime (fluff) and copper sulfate separately. To prepare, take 100 grams of vitriol and 75 grams of lime, dissolve each substance separately in 10 liters of water. The liquids are then combined to obtain a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

The home-made solution is carefully filtered, otherwise the lime suspension will quickly clog the sprayer.

Treating raspberries with mustard and soda to prevent worms

To prevent the appearance of worms in berries, it is useful to treat raspberries with a solution of dry mustard: add 20 g of powder to a 10-liter bucket of water, filter and generously spray the bushes with a spray bottle. Another way to get rid of raspberry larvae that damage berries is soda. Prepare a solution of 50 g of soda ash and 50 g of laundry soap per 10 liters of warm water. Spraying is toxic, so if necessary it can be repeated at intervals of 2-3 days.

Since raspberry beetle larvae overwinter in the soil, it is recommended to carefully dig up the soil around the raspberry shoots with the addition of wood ash.

Drastic measures - before the buds appear, spray with Guapsin and Trichofit - 5 ml per 10 liters of water. According to experts, these substances contain beneficial bacteria and are absolutely safe for humans.

Dry mustard (left) and guapsine (right) are used to get rid of worms in raspberries

Treating raspberries with ammonia

Ammonia contains ammonia, which, after processing by soil microbes, is converted into nitrates necessary for the development of green mass. This is a concentrated fertilizer that is used in the spring. Also, the drug is used to treat raspberry shoots and foliage against pests and diseases.

Method of preparing the solution: 30–40 ml of 10% pharmaceutical ammonia is diluted in 10 liters of water at room temperature and watered the plants from a watering can with a sprinkler. The finished product is used at a rate of 2–3 liters per bush. Treatment is carried out in early spring.

Video: how to treat raspberries with ammonia

Treating raspberries with tar

To protect against the raspberry-strawberry weevil, the bushes are treated with a solution of birch tar. To do this, prepare a liquid suspension: take 60–100 g of tar per 10 liters of water, and pour the prepared liquid over the raspberries in early spring. Approximately 5–7 liters are spent on processing one plant. This is an absolutely safe method of controlling pests that hibernate in the soil.

Folk remedies for processing raspberries

Treat with tinctures and solutions prepared according to folk recipes in spring, summer (before flowering) and autumn. During the formation of the ovary, treatments with herbal infusions are possible, but during fruiting they should be avoided. Infusions and decoctions have a specific odor and can be bitter, which can affect the taste of the berries.

Several ways to process raspberries using folk remedies:

One liter of whey or sour milk with the addition of 10–15 drops of pharmaceutical iodine solution is mixed and filtered; the composition is used for spraying against late blight and rust.
Place jars of sand soaked in chloramine or kerosene against the glass.
For fungal diseases, prepare a solution of 1 liter of water, 500 g of milk and 100 g of salt and apply it as a spray from a spray bottle.

Whey, iodine and salt are the main elements for preparing solutions for processing raspberries according to folk recipes

Many gardeners use pine needles as a remedy for gray rot. Pine or spruce branches and pine litter are laid out between rows of raspberries or the plantings are sprayed with a decoction of pine needles. To do this, 0.5 kg of plant substrate is poured with 3 liters of water, boiled for 10–15 minutes and left for 2–3 hours. During this time, the liquid will cool to approximately 40 °C - the broth is ready for processing. It is sprayed over the tops of raspberry shoots using a wide paint brush or a homemade broom made from dry grass. It is not recommended to spray the decoction with a sprayer, since the resin contained in the needles settles on individual parts of the sprayer and disables it.

A decoction of pine needles is effective against gray rot on berry bushes and is absolutely harmless

The best option is to mulch the root space of the raspberry beds with pine litter. Onion peels are also often used for these purposes. Onions contain phytoncides that repel pests.

Garlic infusion is used for spraying against pests and fungal diseases. The solution is also used in the fall to water the soil against raspberry beetle larvae. To prepare an infusion of garlic, cut off the shoots of the plant (half a bucket of greens per 5 liters of liquid) or chop the cloves of garlic (10–15 pieces per 0.5 liters of water). The green mass or crushed garlic is poured with boiling water and left to settle for a day. The liquid acquires a sharp, specific odor, which repels pests.

Garlic is a sure remedy against raspberry diseases and pests

Grind 200 g of garlic cloves in a mortar to a pulp, then place them in a 1 liter jar and fill it to the top with warm water. The jar with the lid closed is left in a dark place for 5 days (at a temperature of +20 +25 ° C), periodically shaking the contents. Then filter the infusion, pour it into a dark glass bottle, seal it and put it in the refrigerator. When infesting raspberries with aphids, pour 100 ml of infusion into 5 liters of water and generously moisten the affected area with the solution using a paint brush.

A decoction of tansy, yarrow, wormwood and dandelion is used to combat ticks, flea beetles and aphids on raspberries. Spicy herbs are bitter and have a pungent odor, which repels pests. The decoction is recommended for use at the fruit set stage.

Dry wormwood branches (0.5 kg) are poured into 3 liters of boiling water and left for 12 hours. The spraying process is carried out after the infusion has been strained. An infusion of tansy herb is prepared using the same recipe.
Dandelion is used in the form of a decoction and infusion of fresh green mass: leaves, flowers, stems. First method: pour about 3 liters so that the water covers the crushed ingredients. Place on low heat and simmer for half an hour. The solution is allowed to cool, then filtered and sprayed on the berry bushes. Five liters of decoction is enough to process 10–15 raspberry bushes.
Second method: 1 - 1.5 kg of fresh crushed dandelion grass is infused in a bucket of water for two days. The infusion is drained and the raspberry shoots are irrigated with it from a watering can with a sprinkler.

Decoctions of wormwood (left), tansy (center) and dandelion (right) are prepared for the preventive treatment of raspberries against diseases and pests

Raspberry bushes are treated with herbal infusions immediately after flowering 3-4 times with an interval of 5-7 days.

Storage and disposal

In accordance with the instructions for use, Lapis lazuli against weeds must be stored in packaged form. If the packaging has been opened, it must be used or disposed of immediately.

Important! The poison should not be thrown away along with food, in places accessible to children and animals. Experienced gardeners recommend digging in the remaining product (without packaging) with a small layer of soil

The storage temperature of the drug, according to the instructions for its use, should be from -15 to +40 °C. The packaging must be undamaged; warehouses specially designed for pesticides are usually used. The shelf life of Lapis lazuli is 5 years.

The most commonly used herbicide active ingredients

Glyphosate (isopropylamine/potassium/sodium salt) - preparations “Agrokiller”, “Tornado”, “Uragan-Fote”, “Roundup”, “Chistogryad”, “Napalm”, Aristocrat”, “Ground”, “Glyphos”, “Liquidator” and etc.
Dicamba (dimethylamine/diethylethanolammonium/sodium salt) - “Deimos”, “Propolol”, etc.
Triasulfuron / chlorsulfuron - drugs “Lintur”, “Propolol”, etc.
Clopyralid - drugs "Gazontrel", "Lornet", "Hacker", etc.
Khizalofop-P-ethyl - drugs - “Olitschnik”, “Miura”, etc.
Metribuzin - drug "Lazurit"
Oxyfluorfen - the drug "Galigan" and others.

MORE “Classification and mechanism of action of herbicides”

How to remove wheatgrass from the garden forever - effective herbicides

Wheatgrass is an incredibly tenacious plant, taking over a decent amount of land from other plants in a couple of months. Weeding and other tricks get rid of the malicious weed for a short time, and therefore summer residents are haunted all season by the headache of how to remove wheatgrass from the garden forever. The first thing any person thinks of is to use herbicides, since these chemicals have the ability to destroy weeds along with the roots.

When choosing an aggressive herbicide for wheatgrass, it is worth deciding on the active substance - it can be a continuous action drug that destroys all crops, or a selective one that affects certain types of grass, but both herbicides for wheatgrass have shown themselves to work well, and with their When choosing, you should take into account the safety rules for cultural plantings.

It is advisable to use continuous herbicides in places where there are no cultivated plants - these include the preparations Tornado, Agrokiller, Antiweed, and the Roundup herbicide also has a good effect - in addition to wheatgrass, it also removes the annoying loach from the site.

If wheatgrass has colonized the beds, selective substances are chosen. If you have any difficulty in how to destroy wheatgrass on strawberries, you should buy Lontrel - it works on all plants except this berry. If wheatgrass has infested potato plantings, the drug Lazurit, Zenkor or Panther can deal with it - they are used to destroy wheatgrass in onion and tomato plots, on potatoes, in beds with carrots and beets, and the Hacker tool will help remove wheatgrass from cabbage and beet beds .

When using chemicals, it is recommended to observe safety measures and strictly follow the instructions - if necessary, crops growing nearby are covered with a film during treatment, and even if the herbicide is blown onto them by the wind, they will be protected. It is allowed to treat the area with chemicals against weeds no more than once every three years.

How to deal with wheatgrass on the lawn?

To remove the hated wheatgrass from your favorite lawn, you need to wait until spring and take radical action:

Remove sporadic wheatgrass sprouts as soon as you see them. Try to pry the root as much as possible so as not to damage it. This will prevent the weed from growing.
Try not to delay the growth of wheatgrass, much less its ripening. Because if a weed disperses its seeds, you will have to spend a lot of time and effort removing the grass from a well-groomed lawn. Plus, weed killers can ruin your lawn grass and the appearance of your beautiful area.

Wheatgrass creates an unsightly appearance in the lawn.

It is better to treat the soil with herbicides before planting the lawn. If the enemy wheatgrass has sprouted on the site, then treat it with Agrokiller, a herbicide that has a selective effect.

What types of weeds are there?

To choose an effective way to control a weed, carefully study its life cycle and consider the root system. Then your efforts will not be in vain.

Juveniles (one-year-olds and biennials)

Annual weeds fall out of the grass stand as they are mowed or weeded. The main thing is not to let them bloom. Where the soil is already loose (in flower beds and beds), it is enough to simply loosen the soil slightly as soon as seedlings appear - such weeds quickly die and weeding is no longer required.

Mulching inhibits the growth of annual weeds. You can spread mature compost and crushed bark between the beds. It is not suitable for the beds themselves, as it contains tannins. Black film placed on the beds will also deprive weeds of light. Weedy annual plants: rapeseed, shepherd's purse, quinoa, field grass, white pigweed, etc.

Mulch protects raspberries from pests

Mulch is an agrotechnical means of combating certain pests that overwinter in the soil - adult insects cannot overcome a thick layer of mulch and die.

If there are no outbreaks of pests overwintering in the soil on raspberries, then in the spring they simply add a 5-10 cm layer of mulch.

If there are a lot of pests or weeds begin to appear, proceed as follows: in the fall, after the pests leave for the winter, the layer of mulch is loosened and dug up; in the spring, add 30-50 g of nitroammophoska per 1 m² and loosen it again, disturbing the wintering areas. Then add a new layer of mulch 15-20 cm thick.

If there are a lot of pests, in the fall the mulch along with the wintering larvae and pupae is raked out, placed in compost heaps, and the soil is finely dug up. In the spring, shallow digging is repeated, and then the raspberries are covered again with mulching materials.

Why is it hard to get rid of raspberries?

When a person thinks about why it is difficult to get rid of raspberries, he must take into account several basic structural features of this crop. Berry bushes have an unusual root system and different propagation methods. Every gardener who grows raspberries in his garden tries to create comfortable conditions for them. But there is a certain category of people who, on the contrary, are trying to eradicate this crop in the garden. And this complex process is approached with all responsibility.

Important! The complex root system of perennial raspberries helps it cope with many adverse situations, surviving under any conditions.

Raspberry root system

If we consider the features of the raspberry root system, we distinguish several stages of its development:

a seedling suitable for planting consists of a rhizome and a main stem. After a few weeks, replacement shoots form on the rhizome;
independent bushes are connected to their parents by rhizomes;
after harvesting, the upper part of the bush dies, but the root remains unchanged and produces new shoots;
Every year, offspring are formed on horizontal buds. They receive nutrients and moisture from the parent bush;
if the bush dies, then the root system of the young seedling becomes independent, forming a separate plant.

Raspberry root system: 1 - two-year-old fruitful shoot, 2 - lateral branches, 3 - replacement shoot, 4 - suckers, 5 - etiolated (unlit shoots), 6 - roots, 7 - buds on the roots, 8 - rhizome.

Raspberry propagation

Among the common methods of propagating raspberries are:

Green cuttings. If you want to preserve varietal qualities, then this method will allow you to do this. A small seedling is trimmed so that its length is 8–10 cm. After this, it is placed in a solution that contains a growth stimulator (“Kornevin”, “Heteroauxin” or growth powder). The planting material is kept in such conditions for 15 hours. After this time, the cuttings are planted in the soil and covered with plastic film. Maintain the optimal distance when planting (no more than 10 cm between bushes)

Within a month, the cuttings will take root in the soil and grow.

Important! If raspberries were propagated using green cuttings, then the temperature should be within +25°C. If the root cutting method was used, then the temperature is maintained in the range of +25...+30°C.

Root cuttings

First, determine what a root cutting is. Based on the structural features of the raspberry, it is a root element that has a side branch. The root thickness should be between 2–3 mm. The reproduction process consists of several stages. First, small grooves are dug (up to 5 cm deep), inside which planting material is installed. After this, it is watered with 2 liters of warm water and covered with film.

How to get rid of old raspberries?

It often happens that raspberries, which have been growing in one place for a long time, simply no longer bear fruit and the plant needs to be replanted somewhere. But how to do this correctly, because the land should not be empty and something else can be grown in this place?!

Armed with pruning shears, the first thing you need to do is cut off the shoots. You need to cut it about 10 cm from the surface of the soil, this will make it easier to grab it during further digging.
When digging, you need to push the shovel into the ground as deep as possible. Try to uproot even the smallest roots, often using a small hatchet. It would be good to do the digging early in the spring, when the snow has already melted, the soil will become soft, but it will still be cold for planting. Then you will have the opportunity to repeat the digging a little later and then you will be able to remove some more of the roots.
When there is no time and the roots are dug only once, by summer the bed will gradually begin to be overgrown with young raspberries. It needs to be constantly cut off; if the process is periodic, then by next year such raspberries will no longer grow.
If there is no time for digging, then all that remains is to treat the raspberry roots with herbicides. However, this is not the best option, because the substance will remain in the soil and can damage subsequent plantings.

If you do not plan any planting on this site at all, but intend to use it for the construction of, for example, a bathhouse, then removing the raspberries will be much easier. After some of the roots have been dug out, and it is advisable to do this in the fall, the soil layer should be generously sprinkled with ordinary salt (0.5 cm).

The surface of the ground will need to be covered with roofing felt or some other material that does not transmit light. You need to secure it with something on top - throw a little earth or put boards so that it does not blow away in a gust of wind. Having stood in this state until next spring, or even better until autumn, not that the bulk of the raspberries will germinate, there will be nothing left of its roots at all.

To be extra sure, you can burn spring garden debris in the area being treated. The remaining roots will also be burned.