Pruning cherries in spring for beginners, pruning rules

Cherry is a crop that produces fruits that are amazing in taste. But like any other plant, it needs some care. Experienced gardeners know that without proper pruning of cherries it will not be possible to achieve a stable and high-quality harvest, because cherries have a very intense growth force.

Read on to learn about when and how to prune cherries in the spring, as well as the rules for shaping young trees.

Why prune cherries in spring?

With the help of pruning, we solve the main problem of gardeners - the quantity and quality of the harvest. Cutting off unnecessary branches helps the plant recover and improves its health.

Pruning helps the sun's rays reach the fruit. Ventilation is also important for the crown - a large number of branches interfere with the process. A dark and damp environment is a favorable environment for bacteria, so we get rid of unnecessary branches.

Tasks of spring pruning:

Formation of a frame that would allow light and coolness to pass through;
Changing the type of plant from an aesthetic point of view (according to your desire, the tree can be tall or short, etc.);
Increased yield.

Favorable times for pruning cherries

The plant should be at rest when the owner prunes (that is, until the buds ripen). Cold weather is also suitable for the procedure, but not lower than -8 C. But if it is possible to carry out pruning in above-zero temperatures, it is better to choose just such a day - this way the crop will be more comfortable. Given the variety of weather conditions in our country, it is difficult to give exact dates, but agronomists can advise approximate dates.

In a less severe climate (the middle part of the country), you can safely pick up a pruner and saw in late March or early April. In the southern regions, you can start at the end of winter. In the northern regions of the country (Siberia, the Urals, etc.) they start only in mid-spring.

Many gardeners wonder what time of year is best for pruning - spring or autumn? Since the procedure must be done before the buds open, it is best to choose spring. With the beginning of spring, the tree itself prepares for the difficult process of ripening, so it will be more difficult for parasites to get into the plant’s eco-system.

By cutting off useless branches in the fall, you risk weakening the crop's immunity, and it may not survive the winter. But breeders have developed cherry varieties for northern climates, and some trees are not at all afraid of cold weather, which means they can be pruned in the fall.

The pruning season also depends on the type of fruit: those trees that produce fruits with seeds are pruned in the fall, and those with seeds in the spring. After summer, the activity of pests ceases, which means that the tree no longer needs to protect itself from them. And the recovery processes are not going well. Therefore, the most favorable time for pruning is early spring.

Proper pruning of cherries in spring and autumn

In order for the tree to bear fruit regularly and abundantly, it is necessary to annually remove dry, damaged branches. In addition, pruning cherries helps to form a correct, good crown. This work is usually done in the fall and spring. Cherry pruning in spring begins before the buds swell. If the tree is damaged by winter frosts, this is done a little later, when the buds begin to grow, and at the same time the frostbitten shoots are removed.

Spring pruning of cherries

Spring pruning of cherries occurs in mid-March - early April, since this crop is heat-loving and does not tolerate severe frosts. If the plant is sick, it is necessary to remove diseased, damaged branches, which can infect healthy branches and the entire plant. Annual shoots that have reached 20-40 cm are not pruned. Remove neighboring competing branches that thicken and tangle the crown. Branches growing upward are cut off at their origin.

How to prune cherries in spring

Cherry tree trimming can be done once a year if the work is done correctly. In order for the tree to be completely open to the sun, it is important to form a crown. The crown is formed 5 years after planting. If the tree has a bush-like shape, 7-9 skeletal branches are left in the crown. For tree varieties of cherries, it is enough to leave 4-6. The height of the headquarters should be 30-40 cm. Annual growth is shortened only in young cherries that have reached the age of 3-4 years. If the length of annual shoots has reached 50 cm, they are shortened by 1/3, which promotes better branching. However, annual growth in fruit-bearing varieties is not shortened, as this can lead to their drying out. Root shoots are removed from grafted trees, which reduces crop yield.

Fruit-bearing individuals with good growth of annual shoots do not need pruning, so they are only thinned out. When growth is reduced to 10-15 cm, anti-aging pruning is done. Skeletal branches are shortened to the point where the formation of lateral branches has ceased. Anti-aging pruning is carried out within 2-3 years, otherwise the cherry tree may develop gum disease. Often, when removing branches, wounds appear on the bushes, which are covered with garden varnish or oil paint.

Cherry tree pruning

Proper pruning of cherry trees differs from the usual removal of excess growth, which often leads to wounds and gum formation and can subsequently harm the plant if it is weakened. This work is quite complex, painstaking and requires care, so before you start forming the crown, you need to study in detail the information on how to prune cherries in the spring.

Pruning young cherries

Pruning of young cherries is done immediately after planting the seedling, which allows the gardener to form the desired shape of the crown, help the root system to more easily tolerate replanting and take root in a new place, since the removed branches do not need to be saturated with nutrients.
Planting and removal of branches is carried out until buds appear. The seedling is pruned so that 4-5 strong, developed branches remain on it. The remaining growths are removed, and the wounds on the tree are covered. The branches left should be 10 cm apart and directed to the sides. In the spring, observations are made to ensure that the bush does not thicken and that the crown continues to form correctly. All branches going inside are removed. The shoots that have formed on the headquarters are cut out. Young, mature trees are shortened from above, controlling their growth. In bushy varieties, shoots exceeding 50 cm in length are shortened. As the cherry trees grow, they leave new skeletal branches until their number exceeds 15.

Pruning young cherries should be very careful because during this period the growth and fruiting pattern of the tree is established. Mistakes made can lead to low crop yields in the future.

Pruning old cherry trees also has its own characteristics. It is carried out with the aim of rejuvenating them and increasing productivity. Rejuvenating crown formation of bushy varieties is required when the ends of the branches become bare and the fruiting of the tree is significantly reduced. Productivity is restored by reducing the number of branches and shortening them by 1/3 or 1/2 of the length of the shoot. In addition to shoots, I remove skeletal branches to the level of the buds or to well-developed lateral branches. To ensure that the plant does not weaken after pruning and continues to bear fruit, skeletal and semi-skeletal branches are removed in different years. One-year growths should not be touched.

Anti-aging pruning of tree varieties is carried out differently. Annual shoots are slightly shortened, due to which new bouquet branches and lateral branches are formed, on which fruits will later appear. Crown rejuvenation is required if the skeletal branches are bare at the base, and annual growth is less than 15 cm. When the branches growing in the middle of the crown dry out, pruning is carried out on the side branches.

When trimming old cherry trees, you should not remove a large number of shoots at one time. This work is carried out in stages and lasts several years.

You can watch the video to see how cherry trees are pruned in spring:

Pruning cherries in autumn

Cherry pruning in autumn is carried out from September to November. In the southern regions, cherries are pruned after the leaves fall. It is not recommended to prune young plants after the first growing season, since their crown is just beginning to form, and young branches can freeze in severe frosts. In the fall, remove large growths that interfere with the growth and development of the tree, as well as thicken the crown. Autumn pruning is carried out every 3 years. This work should not be carried out immediately before frost, as this can weaken the tree and reduce its winter hardiness.

Pruning cherries in the fall is necessary for prevention. During this period, dry, diseased, damaged branches are removed and subsequently destroyed. Burning branches will protect other trees from diseases and pests found on diseased branches or in their foliage. The sections are treated with garden varnish or paint.

Many gardeners form the cherry crown in winter. At this time, trees are at rest, so their wounds heal faster and easier than in spring or autumn, in addition, in winter the likelihood of bark tearing is reduced. However, this work cannot be carried out in severe frosts, since the bark at this time becomes very fragile and can be damaged when pruning.

Winter pruning is suitable for mature specimens that can better withstand frost. Wounds that appear during the formation of the crown are treated with garden varnish, which will protect the bark at the base of the wounds from frostbite.

Felt cherry pruning

Felt cherry trees are pruned annually. This is due to the fact that this culture, due to its characteristics, quickly thickens. The main part of the harvest is formed on annual shoots, so a shoot 60 cm long is shortened by 1/3. When removing branches, it is necessary to leave 12-14 strong shoots. All old, damaged and dried branches are removed. Rejuvenating pruning of perennial felt cherry bushes will allow you to obtain abundant harvests throughout the life of the tree.

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Getting ready to prune cherries correctly in spring

A gardener who decides to cut branches himself must understand how the plant works and have the necessary tools at hand.

Handy means

The wounds of the plant after pruning must be treated, and the procedure must be carried out with gardening tools, including:

small pruner.
hacksaw and saw for garden work.
large pruning shears (to reach the top of the tree).
ladder.
a means for treating cut areas (oil composition from flax, a mixture of alcohol and iodine, special garden compositions).

How does a tree work?

Agronomists advise studying the structure of your tree before pruning. Imagine a crop without extra branches, and the following rules will help you understand what a proper plant should be. Only after studying, start cutting off useless elements.

All branches should be symmetrically located in relation to the main skeleton of the tree - high branches are usually small, and lower ones are large and strong.
The gardener must also understand the age of the branches, which have long been determined by the rings at the very beginning of the elements - many rings mean great age, which means their resource is already running out. Younger branches will bear more fruit, they will be tasty and juicy.

Preparing cherries for spring pruning

Before you begin the procedure, you should prepare. To do this you need:

Inspect the tree, determine which branches need and can be cut.
Prepare tools: hand pruning shears, garden knife, hacksaw. During the work you will also need a stepladder, oil paint or drying oil, and brilliant green.

It is best to take a new tool for the job. You can use the old one after disinfecting it first.

Methods for pruning cherries

The pruning method itself depends on the type of tree, of which there are several:

Pruning to form the crown (helps you choose the right shape depending on the plant variety and your preferences). Correct formative pruning creates support for the crop and strengthens its skeleton.
Pruning to increase fruit (cherries that are already bearing fruit require a special method of pruning to increase yield and improve the berries themselves). It also increases the vital resource of the culture itself.
Old plants can also still bear berries, so a “youth” procedure is carried out for them. This circumcision can be done several times during the spring.
Sanitation (often garden trees suffer from pests, excess sun or moisture - then the agronomist resorts to removing the damaged parts). Processing takes place at any time of the year.

The main features of pruning cherries

In this section, you will learn how to work with garden pruning items and how to prune cherries without jeopardizing their yield.

All branches are subordinate to the main trunk - as if emanating from it. They should not look more powerful than the trunk, as this will knock down the crop. They cannot grow higher than the main trunk - the tree must grow proportionately for good yield. It will also visually decorate your garden.

Pruning "to the bud" . The main feature of this type of pruning is not to spare young branches when forming a new cherry crown. We choose elements where the buds point away from the tree, and not into it - such buds will definitely give a rich harvest.

After pruning, the cut of the plant must heal for the favorable development of the crop, so we cut it so that the upper parts of the bud and the cut coincide. Thus, their reasons must also coincide. This type of pruning can be combined with other types.

Ring trimming. With this pruning, the unnecessary branch is removed in the direction of the ring. The cut is made perpendicularly.

Transfer trim. To speed up the healing of cherries, gardeners use transfer pruning. This type of pruning involves a branch or shoot that acts as the basis for the supply of nutrients to the plant. They will also help him cover the cut area with bark. The shoot should not be too thin.

Treatment of wounds (cuts) after pruning

Like the human body, the plant requires treatment of an open area unprotected by bark. To do this, gardeners use both time-tested folk remedies and derived chemical treatments. Why are such procedures carried out? Gardeners prevent rotting by creating a moist environment that is favorable for bacteria and parasites.

Summer cherry tree crown care

In summer, two prunings are carried out. In the summer, as soon as the ovaries are visible and the leaves have blossomed, the cherries are thinned out. At this moment, branches with dead wood are clearly visible - leaves do not bloom on them. The excess ovary is removed. Pruning cherries in summer involves removing all branches that have begun to dry out due to fungal diseases. To remove young branches growing inside the crown or future tops, use tweezers. By pinching the ends of the shoots you can direct them in the desired direction. Remove a green, non-woody branch in the summer - do not weaken the tree by pruning when the unnecessary branch becomes thick. This is the answer to the question of many novice gardeners - is it possible to prune cherries in the summer.

After harvesting, cherries need sanitary pruning. It involves removing broken branches and cutting out unnoticed tops. Experienced gardeners often use ropes to pull the top in the desired direction rather than cutting it out. Only horizontal branches produce crops.

Cherries have a strong renewal. Instead of one cut branch, several grow. Based on this, it is better to remove one old branch than a lot of useless ones aimed at thickening young growth.

Which branches should be completely or partially removed from cherries in the first half of the year?

Some elements only need to be trimmed, and some are already so unsuitable for the tree that they simply need to be removed.

Pruning rules must be followed. First, we pay attention to branches infected with infections, which only harm the tree. Such elements should not be allowed to humus, as bacteria contaminate the soil, and in the future, entire crops. It is better to burn them. We cut off the infected elements using a ring or transfer method.

Broken branches will also not benefit the cherry tree, since useful elements no longer enter the broken branch. They are often attacked by pests. Some elements grow crookedly in relation to the trunk, intertwine or grow too close to each other. Also, some branches add shadow to the fertile ones, and it interferes with proper development.

Depending on the growth of the branch, we choose methods: ring-shaped, to enlarge the fruit, or “on the bud”, which should look at the outside. The tree does not require sharp corners or forked growth. Later, when the fruits are already ripe in the summer, it will be difficult for such branches to hold large berries; cracks or breaks in the elements are possible.

All the branches of the crop look up, so we cut off those growing downwards. Cherries are also harmed by several root shoots that take away valuable nutrients. Gardeners need so-called “tops” for planting crops.

It is necessary to maintain the level of the tree - cut off all interfering branches located above the ground. When pruning branches, take into account the possibility of ventilation and direct sunlight, and also make sure that all fruit-bearing branches receive the necessary mineral elements.

Pruning methods depending on age and types of cherry crowns

Not only the type of cherry tree affects the pruning method, but also its age. Crops of different ages require either pruning to form a structure, or pruning to prolong the life of the tree.

Young plants require pruning only to maintain a neat shape, which contributes to its proper development. In addition, proper load distribution strengthens the skeleton of the crop. Perennial plants no longer need to be formed - they only need an increase in yield and an extension of their resource.

Experts distinguish four main types of crowns, taking into account which they choose the type of pruning. The tiered form of the plant is rarely found. For most gardeners, cherries look like a vase or bowl. Also in Spain, a special form of culture was developed called the “Spanish bush”. Breeders experimented with this form for many years until they finally completed their work.

Seasonal pruning schedule

For ease of orientation in the types and times of pruning cherries, a table has been compiled.

Frequency of pruning cherries

№	Trimming type	Season	Note
1	Formative	Spring	First 4–5 years
2	During the fruiting period	Summer	Annually
3	Rejuvenating	Autumn	Once every 5–7 years, after the end of the period of active fruiting
4	Sanitary	Autumn	Annually, after entering the dormant state

Rejuvenating and sanitary can be combined. The yield of the tree will help you determine the need for anti-aging pruning. If it falls every year, then it’s time to rejuvenate the tree.

Bringing back youth to old cherries

For old cherries, gardeners often carry out rejuvenating pruning. This is done this way:

First, we carry out processing pruning: we remove all infected, shriveled and broken branches.
If the lower branches hang unsightly near the ground and do not benefit the crop, they should be removed.
Using the ring technique, we remove unnecessary elements that prevent sunlight from reaching the fruit. We also cut off intertwined branches that prevent each other from developing.
Pay attention specifically to old and outdated elements, since new branches will still be able to bear fruit, and the old ones will be useless for the plant. Do not remove new branches, even if they are woven.
Some branches grow upward in a stake and need to be pruned using the “ring” method.
Some shoots, growing up to 50 cm, never bear the long-awaited berries. The gardener should monitor them and trim them if necessary.

How to prune young and old cherries: formative and rejuvenating pruning

Depending on the age of the trees, the specifics of pruning also differ - the formation of young cherries (from the moment the seedling is planted) and the rejuvenation of the old crop.

A shaping procedure is carried out for young seedlings, which helps to form the crown and strengthen the tree’s skeleton. For old trees, a rejuvenating procedure is used, the purpose of which is to restore regularity of fruiting.

Methods (types) of forming cherries: types of crowns

Remember that any pruning should be based on the shaping!

However, you need to understand that shaping and trimming are different actions. If you can still “get weird” with the shaping (get creative), then you need to make cuts only according to the rules.

The method of formation depends on the tree’s growth vigor and branching ability.

By the way! It is believed that cherries branch very weakly, and one- to two-year-old shoots may have no branches at all.

It is also important to know what exactly you want to get: a lot of fruits or you just need a beautifully decorated tree.

Types of tree crowns: methods of formation

discharged-tiered;

One of the most popular types of shaping fruit trees, including cherries.

cup-shaped (vase-shaped);
Spanish bush ( SB - Spanish Bush);

improved Spanish bush or according to the KGB system (KGB - Kym Green Bush, this is the name and surname of an Australian gardener, so this formation is sometimes called “Australian bush”);

It is the KGB and SB formations that are the most popular in industrial gardening. This is actually why many amateur gardeners have adopted them into their gardens.

according to the Vogel system (T. Vogel).

Note! Next, step-by-step instructions will talk about simpler types of formations, namely discharged-tiered and cup-shaped. You can learn how to form a tree like a Spanish one (shown in the pictures above) and an Australian bush from the following videos:

Video: how to form a tree using the Spanish bush system

Video: nuances of forming cherries using the KGB system

Discharged-tiered formation of cherries: pruning a 1,2,3,4 year old tree

As a rule, young cherries are formed every spring, but autumn formative pruning is also allowed (although it is highly undesirable).

Note! Which specific branches to remove and which ones to leave, how exactly to trim them - everything is described in detail and clearly shown (in the diagrams) in the previous paragraphs.

Next, let's look at how to properly shape cherries if you have chosen the open-tiered type of shaping:

Note! As a rule, a 1-2 year old seedling is planted .

immediately after spring planting (i.e. we already have a 1 or 2 year old seedling), the main branch (central conductor), or rather the top, is cut into 3-4 buds (leave a height of 80-100 cm) so that the tree has side branches, in other words, the first tier has formed.

It is better to break out all the lower buds so that the tree directs all its forces to the development of the top - the future skeletal branches of the first tier.

in the 2nd year - the tree forms lateral branches, which should be cut off by 1/3 of their length (to the outer bud), and only the 2-3 strongest ones should be left (ideally 3), growing horizontally in different directions, and the rest should be cut out on the ring. You should also cut the top of the central trunk (conductor) to a height of 60-80 cm from the branching of the first tier (from the uppermost side branch) so that the next (second) tier of skeletal branches begins to form. And don’t forget about subordination (pruning should be done at the same level).

Worth knowing! The distance between the tiers of skeletal branches should be approximately as follows: 60-80 cm - between the first and second tier and 30-50 cm - between the second and third. Between the branches themselves in one tier is 10-15 cm. The height of the trunk is 50-80 cm (but 80-100 cm is possible).

for the 3rd year - the side branches are cut off again, as well as young growth (second order branches) on these branches, again by 1/3, “per bud”. In addition, now you need to leave 2-3 branches (ideally 3) of the second tier, also cutting them by 1/3. The top of the central trunk is cut again, but already 30-50 centimeters from the second tier, so that the next (third) tier is formed.

There must be one central conductor (main trunk), so all its competitors must be cut into a ring.

for the 4th year - the last year of formation of cherries (if you form in 3 tiers). Everything is done similarly to the previous year (the continuation shoots are shortened and the side branches are cut off), with one exception: if 3 tiers are enough for you, then 2 strong shoots are left for the 3rd tier, the top itself is cut “into a ring”, transferring to a side branch (3 branch).

Do not forget to follow the principle of subordination of branches , tier 1 - the longest branches, tier 2 - shorter, tier 3 - the shortest.

For the 5th year and beyond , it is already necessary to carry out anti-aging pruning, and also not to lose attention to sanitary and thinning.

Advice! The optimal height of a tree from which it is convenient to harvest is no more than 3.5-4 meters, and even better, 2.5-3 m.

How to shape a cherry tree into a bowl: pruning a 1 or 2 year old tree

If you want to form a cherry tree in the form of a bowl (simple), then pruning is carried out in the following sequence (by year):

Immediately after spring planting or in 1 year - if there are no branches (side branches) on the seedling, you need to cut the main branch (central conductor) to a height of 50-60 cm (60-80 is possible) so that the tree has lateral branches.

Note! As a rule, a 1-2 year old seedling is planted , i.e. if the seedling already has branches, so see the next step.

The next year (year 2) - the tree forms lateral branches, which should be cut back by 1/3 (leaving 30-50 cm) to the outer bud. In this case, you need to leave only 3-4 of the strongest ones (those growing close to the ground are also not suitable), growing at an angle (more horizontally than vertically) in different directions. Also, by transferring to a side shoot, the top should be cut off into a ring.
For the 2nd or 3rd year . Annual growths have formed on each of the lateral branches. Now you need to select 2-3 shoots on each branch, and cut all the rest, which are located close to the trunk and thicken the crown, into a ring. The 2-3 remaining shoots are shortened by about 1/3, leaving 30-50 cm.

As a result, your bowl-shaped tree should have 8-12 main branches (3-4 first-order and 4-8 second-order), from which you will receive crops year after year.
Naturally, in the future you will have to trim them - regulate their growth and carry out anti-aging pruning.

Rejuvenation of old cherries

If you have an old cherry tree in your garden that bears little fruit, then in order to improve productivity and increase its lifespan, you can and should rejuvenate it.

However, first you should make sure that the selected tree is old but healthy, in other words, whether it is sick. Otherwise, rejuvenation will only hasten his death.

The essence of rejuvenating pruning of cherries in the spring is to replace old branches with new, younger and more fertile ones.

Important! Moreover, the rejuvenation of old trees should be carried out gradually, over several years. In other words, pruning should be moderate; you don’t need to cut out everything (listed below) in the first year.
If you remove too many branches at one time , the cherry tree may become spindly (produce many branches). However, everything can be easily corrected by summer pinching (removing green young shoots - tops, if they grew “in the wrong place” or went to grow “in the wrong direction”).

Step-by-step instructions for rejuvenating pruning of old cherries in spring:

Remember! You only need to trim “for a ring” by removing “for transfer” (for lateral branching), this is how old branches are replaced by younger ones - rejuvenating pruning is carried out.

First of all, all diseased, dry and broken branches must be removed (sanitary pruning).
Next, you need to get rid of the lower branches that literally hang above the ground.
Completely cut out into a “ring” all unnecessary and interfering branches that thicken and shade the crown (growing inside the crown, crossing, competing, growing in a “fork”).

When rejuvenating, the advice is especially relevant that it is better to remove one large old branch than to cut off or trim (“to the bud”) a huge number of young thin shoots.

Get rid of all the tops (vertical branches - “wen”), again “on the ring”.

Advice! Tops can be used to graft cherries .

Pinch (cut to a “bud”) all young shoots whose height is more than 40-50 cm.

Video: pruning mature cherries

You can also watch this detailed video about the principles of anti-aging pruning of old trees:

Video: how to prune an old and neglected tree - spring pruning

How to maintain the crown or what to do if the tree grows upward

In short, you need to trim all the branches that are difficult to reach during harvesting, but you need to do it correctly.

Obviously, trees should not be left unattended. It is enough not to prune the cherry tree for a couple of years for it to “fly” upward.

Interesting! If the growth of a cherry tree is not controlled, it can grow up to 15 winds and become like palm trees, the fruits of which you can hardly reach.

Thus, in order for you to be able to harvest normally and treat cherries from diseases and pests , it is simply necessary to restrain the crown of the tree.

That is why, first of all, in this situation, you need to carry out thinning pruning , and at the end, remove all the tallest vertical shoots “ by transferring them to the ring” to the lateral ones, i.e. cut the tall horizontal branches to one of the branches. So you can cut lower and lower every year until you reach the desired height. In other words, transfer the direction of growth of the main branches to a horizontal position.

Advice! However, you should not cut out all the vertical branches at once, but you can enhance their fruiting by making small cuts above each vegetative (growth) bud with a hacksaw , which will cause the formation of shoots on which flower (fruit) buds will form.

You can also shorten by 1/3 all of last year's growth on the remaining branches , which formed at the tips of the upper branches, i.e. at the very top, “on the kidney” .

Moreover, this must be done every spring, because the tree must grow somewhere and produce annual growth every year.

Video: pruning neglected cherries to reduce the crown

Care Tips

With the arrival of warmer weather, not only cherries begin to ripen, but also their pests and parasites. They take the most valuable thing from the tree - the nutrients that support the life of the cherry. But some plants help garden trees cope with pests, for example, legumes or lettuce.

Feeding the crop with fertilizers will not be superfluous if grown correctly. An annual tree is still full of strength and microelements, so it does not need fertilizers. But the older the cherry, the more important artificial feeding is for it. Stores offer different types of such fertilizers - from ash and manure to chemical solutions with phosphorus. If you are not comfortable making fertilizer yourself, you can easily buy it at a gardening store. Please read the instructions carefully before use.

At different times of the year, a tree requires different chemical compositions - in the first half of the year it needs nitrogen, and in the second half - phosphate compounds and potassium. But sometimes the plant itself takes from the soil everything it needs. This is easy to determine - healthy cherries grow about 40 cm per year.

How to properly care for cherries after pruning

A pruned tree requires special care. It includes the mandatory treatment of all cuts with garden varnish, otherwise the wound may become infected and the tree will die.

It is better to carry out the procedure after a few days. During this time, the sections will dry out and gum production will stop.