The best methods for growing grapes from seeds at home

Growing grapevines is a painstaking and quite labor-intensive task. Most often, the vine is propagated by cuttings and layering.

To grow grapes from seed, you will have to be patient, since the first fruits from such a bush will only last for 2-3 years. In addition, a plant grown from a seed does not always have the properties that the grape variety from which the seeds were collected has. Therefore, a graft is often added to bushes grown from seeds.

However, breeders and many who like to experiment in their gardens by growing grapes from seeds obtain new varieties with improved taste and immunity. You will find a detailed description of how to grow grapes at home from seeds in our article.

Caring for grapes at home

Grapes are an unpretentious plant; you don’t have to pay much attention to it, just carry out basic activities.

Conditions for growth

The plant is provided with optimal conditions. This will reduce the likelihood of infection and accelerate its growth:

Temperature

During the growing season, room temperature is suitable for grape growth. The optimal range is considered to be +19…+25°C. In winter, the liana feels comfortable at temperatures from 0 to +10°C.

Humidity

When the humidity is less than 70%, the vines begin to dry out. The risk of contracting fungal infections and spider mites increases. To create optimal conditions, the vine is sprayed with warm water once a week. In winter, place a humidifier or containers of water near the pot.

Lighting

Cultivated grapes are demanding of light. It is grown on southern or southwestern windowsills. Wild grapes feel better in shade. It is kept near the north or southeast window.

If the room is cool enough in winter for the plant to go dormant, additional lighting is not required. If the room is warm and a second harvest is planned, in winter use fluorescent lamps located at a distance of 20 cm from the pot.

Watering

During the growing season, grapes are watered 1-2 times a week. The hotter the room, the more often. For irrigation, use warm, settled water. Moistening the soil with cold water is the main reason for the development of root rot.

During the fruiting period, the amount of watering is reduced. The soil is moistened no more than once every 10 days. In winter - no more than once every 2 weeks, provided that the room is cool. If the room is warm, water the grapes as usual.

It is recommended to water the plant from a watering can - this way the liquid penetrates more easily into the soil and at the same time loosens the soil.

Feeding and fertilizers

To ensure that the grapes on the windowsill develop quickly, do not get sick and bear fruit, fertilize according to the following scheme:

1. The first feeding is in early spring. The fertilizer contains potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen. Home remedy option: 1 kg of chicken manure, 9 liters of water, 25 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium salts.
2. The second and third fertilizing is applied in the summer, before the fruits reach their maximum size. The product must contain potassium salts and phosphorus.
3. Fertilizer is applied a fourth time when the berries reach their maximum size. They use a preparation containing phosphorus, potassium and other elements except nitrogen.
4. The grapes are fed for the last time during the season in the fall. Use a complex mineral fertilizer that does not include nitrogen and chlorine.

The day before fertilizing, the soil is moistened.

Shaping and trimming

Formation is carried out in autumn or early spring

After fruiting has finished, the long vine is pruned. Shoots sprout from small prunings and are formed according to the method described above.

Every autumn, sanitary pruning is done: old, dry parts of the plant affected by diseases and pests are removed.

Rules for transplantation and transshipment

Before the first fruiting, the grapes are transferred to a freer container annually. To do this, it is removed from the pot along with a lump of earth, a few centimeters of top soil and drainage are removed. A layer of drainage is poured onto the bottom of the new pot and the plant is immersed along with a lump of earth. The missing volume is filled with soil. The grapes are watered.

After the first fruiting, the vine begins to be replanted. This is done once every 2-3 years. When replanting, the plant is removed from the pot and at least one third is cleared of soil. Diseased and damaged roots are removed. Drainage is poured into the pot, grapes are placed there, and the free space is covered with earth. The soil is moistened.

After transplantation, the plant is kept in a shaded place for 7 days. This will help him adapt.

The vines will need support. To do this, they are let through the window or tied to a rope stretched at an angle.

How to plant and grow correctly

The preparatory stage begins with work on the ripened fruits. Clusters with whole berries that have reached physical maturity are suitable. You must first remove the skin and manually separate the seeds. Next comes the stage of rejecting green and black seeds. Only well-ripened red-brown specimens are suitable for germination.

Seed preparation

The planting material must be washed under running water to completely remove any remaining pulp. After this, the seeds need to be disinfected by placing them in a slightly pink solution of manganese for 30 minutes. After this, the planting material must go through the stratification stage. This will increase the germination rate and adaptive abilities of future plants.

Read more about why grapes dry out and how to deal with it.

Stratification

The procedure involves pre-sowing preparation of seeds by keeping them in a cool environment. The entire process takes 35–40 days. Step-by-step action diagram:

1. Prepare coarse sand. Its volume should be a multiple of the number of seeds.
2. Pour boiling water over the sand thoroughly and dry.
3. Mix sand with seeds and moisten it with a spray bottle so that the mass crumbles easily when squeezed.
4. Place the mixture in cassettes or boxes, placing it in a layer of 5–7 cm.
5. Place the boxes in a cool room where the air temperature is maintained within +3...+5°C for 25–30 days.
6. After this period, increase the air temperature to +25°C.
7. Maintain the humidity of the mixture within 50% at all times, avoiding drying out.
8. If cracks appear on individual specimens, select them from the total mass and sow them.

How to sow in a pot and how to care for it?

You can use cups or cassettes for sowing. The soil for germination is prepared by mixing 2:1 humus and sand. The earth mixture is first fried in the oven at a temperature of +100°C. When the soil has cooled to +20°C, the seeds are planted one at a time to a depth of 1.5 cm. Then the soil is moistened from a spray bottle with water at room temperature (+23...+25°C).

Important! You can speed up seed germination by varying day and night temperatures. Night temperature should be 4-5°C lower than day temperature.

The containers are placed on a well-lit windowsill, preferably on the south or southwest side. If there is not enough light, you need to take care of additional illumination with phytolamps. The air temperature in the room should be constantly maintained within +25...+27°C, air humidity within 30–40%, soil moisture - 50%. In order for the sprouts to develop evenly, they need abundant lighting for at least 8 hours a day. Basic care for sprouts consists of the following activities:

• watering - after the top layer of soil dries 3 cm deep, is carried out using a spray bottle;
• loosening the soil - after each moistening of the soil;
• applying fertilizer containing nitrogen and phosphorus - every 10 days - once by the root method, the next - by foliar method.

Selection of seeds and variety

Is it possible to grow grapes from seeds? There is no difficulty in growing grape bushes from seeds. Sometimes a strong vine grows from a randomly discarded seed.

Before germinating seeds, you need to understand what variety is needed and what it will be intended for. If the final goal is wine, then choose wine varieties; for raisins, other types will be needed. Just enjoy the taste and eat the berries by choosing sweet, fleshy varieties of grapes. Any type of grapevine is suitable for decoration.

A good harvest depends on the weather and climatic conditions in which the grapes will be grown. To select a variety, its characteristics are determined, in which geographical area it can grow and what species can bear fruit in the region. Recommended varieties for growing from seeds:

• Victoria,
• Chaush,
• Mascot,
• Red delight,
• Russian Concord,
• Wax,
• Laura,
• Northern.

Theoretically, a vine can be grown from any mature seed. Hybrids are better suited for this purpose. They are disease resistant and can survive frost and cold. Preference is given to early ripening grapes of early varieties 95-110 days of ripening.

Grapes grown from seeds may differ in properties from the mother bush. The main condition when picking berries is that they should start from female flowers. The vine then has a greater chance of receiving parental inheritance.

Important! For planting, only mature brown seeds with a dense shell are used. https://www.youtube.com/embed/rufE2kBshZU

Which varieties are the most productive?

These include:

• Mascot;
• Victor;
• Russian Concord;
• Chaush;
• Codrianka;
• Wax;
• North, Nimrang and Laura;

The last three varieties are sour and belong to technical varieties, and in the first positions they are sweeter and are also used for food. Find out about the characteristics of the Baikonur grape variety at this link.

It is better to take seeds from a new harvest of new early varieties and hybrids that bear fruit in local conditions.

Choose hybrid varieties, breeders have already worked on it so that the plant is resistant to cold and other delights of the climate.

European varieties have low germination, American and Amur varieties are better. If the grapes are not brought from the southern regions of the country, but bear fruit in the conditions of central Russia, then there is a greater likelihood of getting a harvest. Find out about the characteristics of Sauvignon Blanc grapes here.

Grapes grown from seeds usually produce their first harvest 4-5 years after planting. There are varieties that can bear the first fruits the very next year after planting, but such berries are unlikely to be suitable for food and winemaking.

Caring for grape seedlings

Having hatched, the grape seedlings require close attention. A prerequisite for the development of seedlings is constantly moist soil.

You need to water often, but not abundantly. Seedlings react to the drying out of the earthen coma by drooping and withered leaves. With excess moisture, the development of fungi is inevitable. After each watering, the surface layer of soil is loosened.

Grape seedling from seed, 6 months old

The first true leaves of the grape seedling are not carved. When they appear in the amount of 2-4 pieces, you need to carry out the first feeding. At this stage, it is preferable to apply nitrogen fertilizers (ammonium nitrate, urea) to stimulate the growth of green mass. In the future, fertilizing should be done every 2-3 weeks with water-soluble complex mineral fertilizers: Master, Agronova, Biopon, Clean Sheet.

In spring, the grapes are transplanted into a large container. By this time, its length should reach 10-15 cm. When the seedling in the new container gets stronger, they begin to harden it. To do this, containers are taken out onto the balcony or outside. The first stay in the fresh air should last no more than 15 minutes. Every day the hardening time is increased, gradually moving the seedlings outside.

Hardening grapes from seed in spring

Grapes from seeds, grown at home, require constant monitoring so as not to miss the first signs of disease or the appearance of pests. The main enemy of seedlings is the spider mite. To combat it, the leaves of the seedling are wiped with a solution of laundry soap. Mites also do not like high humidity, so it is worth spraying the plants more often.

At the beginning of autumn, the strengthened seedling is transplanted into open ground. Humus (8-10 kg) and superphosphate (200-300 g) are added to the planting hole. The vine is not pruned for the winter. It is twisted into a ring, laid on the ground and covered with dense material (lutrasil, burlap).

Transplanting grape seedlings into open ground

In the future, caring for seeded grapes is no different from growing conventional seedlings from chibouks. The vine is tied to a trellis, formative pruning is carried out every year, the necessary fertilizers are applied, sufficient watering is provided and reliable shelter for the winter is provided.

conclusions

1. Planting grapes from seed is a labor-intensive and risky task. It is not a fact that there will be a harvest at all, and if the plant does bear fruit, the berries may turn out to be sour. On the other hand, it is interesting, because there is a possibility of accidentally discovering a new variety.
2. Growing grape varieties Harold, Lorano and others from seeds is very time consuming. After about 7 weeks, white roots will emerge. But you can use Epin extra. A natural biostimulator will protect against diseases and stress and give the sprouts strength. Moreover, it costs 15 rubles, and will last a long time.
3. We must not forget about watering - the culture makes special demands on it. You need to use a spray bottle and spray more often. The hardening procedure will be useful, that is, taking it out onto the balcony, gradually increasing the time spent there.
4. House seedlings can grow no more than 2 meters; then they must be planted in open areas.
5. There are several varieties that can be grown using this cunning method almost without risk. Get sweet fruits, you can make wine from them. Choose hybrids; breeders have already worked on them. European seeds do not germinate very well; it is better to choose Amur ones.

How to prepare for landing

After checking the seeds for suitability for planting, it is recommended to wash them. To do this, fill the grains with water and leave for 24 hours. After this, the bones are separated. This manipulation is called stratification. Germination of grains can be stopped or stimulated.

If you plan to plant the plant in a month or more, it is recommended to place the planting material in a cool and damp place. To slow down the development of seeds, they should be kept in the ground in winter. To grow grapes at home, on the contrary, the process must be intensified. To do this, it is permissible to use different techniques.

Substrate

This term refers to an airtight container containing a large amount of moistened wipes inside. Sand or moss is also suitable for this purpose. The ideal option would be peat moss. It has antifungal properties and helps to get rid of mold in a short time.

Plastic bag

The seeds must be placed in a bag and distributed over the entire surface. Sprinkle the seeds with a special substrate on top. Its thickness should not exceed 15 millimeters. It is recommended to place the package in a cold place with high humidity.

The best option would be a refrigerator. It is recommended to store seeds in such conditions for 90 days. In this case, it is strictly forbidden to put the package in the freezer. It can only be placed on a shelf.

The seeds for planting should be pulled out in early March. They must be planted in special containers. In this case, the seeds are placed one at a time.

Temperature

To speed up the germination of grapes, it should be provided with the correct temperature conditions. At night this indicator should not be less than +15 degrees. To ensure the required conditions, the seeds should be placed in a greenhouse or special heating mats should be used.

The soil

When growing grapes in a pot, certain conditions must be observed. It is strictly forbidden to moisten the soil too much. If watering has been carried out recently, but the soil has dried out, it is recommended to use a sprayer.

Sprouts will appear in approximately 14-56 days. Experts advise constantly monitoring the development of culture. It is permissible to move bushes to a new location when they reach 8 centimeters in height.

To make the culture stronger and frost-resistant, it is not recommended to take the pots outside ahead of time. This is done when the bushes grow to 30 centimeters. In addition, the culture must have strong roots

It is also important that there are at least 6 leaves on the stems



How to plant a seedling in a pot

It is recommended to plant a seedling grown from a cutting or purchased at the market in the spring. During the active growing season, it will take root and develop faster.

Before planting grapes, select suitable planting material. Seedlings must have a developed root system, hard but elastic bark, and living roots. The height of the trunk is above 2 m.

Preparing the substrate and container

In order for the seedling to take root, the soil is prepared. The soil should be loose and fertile. Peat, humus and river sand are mixed in equal proportions. A glass of ash, 35 g of superphosphate, 35 g of urea and 20 g of potassium salt are added to 10 kg of soil mixture. The ingredients are thoroughly mixed.

When growing grapes in an apartment, you will need drainage: fine expanded clay or crushed stone, broken ceramics, special filler.

The soil and drainage are disinfected: calcined in the oven, poured with a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate or boiling water.

For the first planting, a container with a volume of 4-5 liters is sufficient. In the second year, the vine is transplanted into a pot with a volume of at least 8 liters.

The containers are also disinfected - wiped with a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate or a product prepared from a bucket of water and 1 tbsp. l. copper sulfate.

Landing algorithm

Planting grapes at home is a short process:

1. The roots of the seedling are cut by a third. Soak in a light pink solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes and for 2 days in the root formation stimulator “Kornevin”.
2. A layer of drainage 1-2 cm high is poured onto the bottom of the pot. The rest of the space is filled with soil so that 2-3 cm is left free to the edge.
3. The seedling is buried in the ground so that it can stand without support. The lower part of the trunk is hilled to form a small mound.
4. The plant is watered generously with warm water and covered with film or a cut part of the bottle.
5. The seedling is watered as the soil dries. When watering, the vine is sprayed.
6. When the buds begin to open on the plant, the film is removed.

Timing and technology of transplantation into open ground

Planting in open ground is carried out in early June, when the soil and air are already sufficiently warmed up, and the height of the sprouts reaches 20–30 cm. Before transplanting, about a month in advance, the seedlings are gradually accustomed to fresh air. First, they are exposed to the open air for an hour from 9-10 am. Every day, the time spent outside is increased by 1 hour. At the time of transplantation, the plants should spend 24 hours outside. They begin to prepare the soil on the site for planting in the autumn. For every 1 m², add a bucket of compost and 500 g of superphosphate. The soil is dug up to a depth of 30 cm.

Did you know? Wine is made not only from the fruits of grapes, but also from their foliage. This drink can replace antiviral drugs in winter, because it contains flavonoids and various antioxidant compounds that help improve immunity.

After 2 weeks, pits measuring 60x60x60 cm are formed, the bottom of which is covered with expanded clay. During the same period, a trellis is installed to support the bushes. At a distance of 2 m from each other, along the entire length of the bed, pillars with a height of 2.5 m are installed. Between them, 5 wires are fixed in a horizontal position at a distance of 45 cm from each other. The lowest wire should be 30 cm from the ground. 2 weeks before planting, in mid-May, they begin preparing the soil in the pits.

The soil dug out from the holes is mixed with:

• 10 kg of humus;
• 10 kg of sand;
• 100 g superphosphate;
• 40 g nitrophoska.

Fill the hole 2/3 full with this mixture and add 20 liters of water at room temperature (+23...+25°C). After 2 weeks, the seedlings are transplanted using the transshipment method. To do this, the plants are watered with a 1% solution of copper sulfate per day. This allows you to immediately protect new plantings from pests and fungi. To remove a plant from a pot, tilt it slightly to the side and, while holding it, gently press down the walls and tap the bottom. After this, place your hand under the edge of the pot, and with the other continue to turn it over. After removing the plant, place it in the hole.

Tips and tricks

Young plants are planted on the south side, closer to the walls of the house. Place stones around the vine.

If sand predominates on the site, then the vines are planted in trenches. On clay and loam, it is recommended to plant grapes on ridges.

For watering and fertilizing, plastic bottles with the bottom cut off are placed between the seedlings.

In the first year of life, young animals can be left in the container in which they grew up at home. The buckets are not completely buried in the ground; they are taken out for the winter, moved to the basement, and in the spring the bushes are planted in the ground without containers.

Annual shoots are tied horizontally, then they will all grow equally.

A week before the expected flowering, watering is stopped.

It is necessary to make drainage grooves. Do not allow wet leaves or too wet soil.

In the first years of life, seedlings need shelter for the winter. The shoots are removed from the trellises, laid on the ground and covered with spruce branches, a layer of spunbond or film.

Growing grapes from seed at home: preparation for the process

Grape seeds for growing at home: photo

Experts will advise you to choose varieties for planting that are characterized by frost resistance, high immunity and good yield. But the reality is that most likely you will buy seed material for the experiment in the fruit and vegetable section of the supermarket, so you will have to work with what you have.

For planting, you will need seeds from the ripest fruits, but not from those that have burst or begun to deteriorate. The seeds should be as large as possible and brown in color. This is an indicator of ripeness.

Carefully remove the seeds from the grapes (do this with your hands, not while eating), wash them well and place them on a damp linen or cotton cloth. Then wrap them in a plastic bag and put them in the refrigerator, where they will remain for 4-6 weeks. Periodically remove the seeds and rinse them in running water.

When the required time has passed, cracks will appear on the bones. This indicates that the planting material is almost ready. Take the seeds out of the refrigerator and put them in a warm place for 48 hours (we leave the damp cloth, but the bag is no longer needed). As soon as tiny white roots appear, you can start planting.

Reviews

Svetlana, 39 years old

If you have time to prepare seeds for planting and then grow seedlings, then you should try the seed method of growing grapevines. I did this because I couldn’t find any seedlings or cuttings of the variety I needed, and I really wanted to grow my own grape bush. I decided to try to germinate seeds from grapes bought at the market. Not all the seeds sprouted, but those that sprouted produced the first clusters in the 4th year of life; they tasted the same as the ones I bought. There were very few of them, but this is my achievement, and I am glad that I succeeded.

Sergey, 44 years old

I’ve been making wine for a long time, at first I made it for myself, but soon my first clients appeared. I wanted to plant the Red Delight grape variety, but I couldn’t find seedlings. I had to buy bunches of grapes, separate the seeds, wash and soak them. I did not keep the seeds in the cold. Only a few specimens sprouted, I had to tinker with them, I was worried that the grapes would have a different taste. Three bushes began to grow, now I have my own Delight, I’m glad that the experiment was a success.

Growing a grapevine from seed is a long process that takes a lot of time and effort. It does not always bring the desired result. But if you want to experiment, develop a new variety, engage in breeding, then it’s worth a try. Invaluable experience is gained and a feeling of satisfaction from the work done appears.

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Breeding by layering

Layers are called buried shoots that have taken root. This option is well suited for growing grape varieties that are difficult to root.

Reproduction by layering can be done in different ways:

• green layering underground;
• perennial layering;
• short shoots;
• hilling a bush;
• air layering;
• Chinese method.

Propagation of grapes by layering is the simplest and most commonly used method.

Green layering method

To propagate grapes with green layering on a healthy, well-bearing bush, one or two lower shoots are selected, the stepsons on which are removed, and the shoots are tied to a trellis. When, around the end of July, their length reaches two meters, the shoots are placed in a ditch dug under the bush. The depth and width of which should be about 0.5 m, and the bottom with a slight slope towards the mother bush. Rotted manure or compost is poured into the ditch and mixed with soil. Before laying the shoots in this trench, the tendrils and leaves on them are removed, leaving a few at the end, which will be above the soil surface. Then the layerings are covered with soil, lightly compacted, and watered. Moreover, their upper ends with 3-4 leaves, coming to the surface, are tied to pegs. In autumn, the rooted cuttings are separated from the mother bush. This propagation of grapes in summer allows you to obtain strong and high-yielding bushes that retain all the characteristics of the variety.

Planting grapes with seeds and caring for them

When is the best time to sow grapes?

— In the southern regions, seeds are usually sown in open ground in mid-March - then there is a high percentage of seedlings that begin to bear fruit in the 2nd–3rd year.

- But in the north, in order for the seedlings, even if they began bearing fruit later - in the 4th-5th year, to have a shorter growing season, the famous winegrower near Moscow Alexander Kuzmin advised sowing the seeds on June 5-10. Such forms – with late “awakening” of shoots and early ripening of berries – are the most promising for northern viticulture.

— It is not recommended to sow grape seeds in open ground before winter. The exception is the seeds from the must after fermentation (remaining during the winemaking process), which have excellent germination.

— In closed ground conditions (on a windowsill, in a greenhouse), sowing time can vary depending on seed germination - from March to the first ten days of May.

How to plant grape seeds?

Grape seeds are sown to a depth of 2 cm (on sandy soil - 4 cm). It is better to take land for planting from the site of the future vineyard. If everything is done correctly, seedlings will appear within 10–14 days. When sowing indoors, place the container with seedlings on a windowsill protected from drafts and provide illumination for at least 15 hours. It is useful to mulch the soil surface with perlite - against the blackleg. After the onset of heat, the seedlings are planted in large containers or immediately planted in open ground in a permanent place. Shading is mandatory during the first year.

Caring for grapes grown from seeds

Seedlings need regular, but not excessive watering with warm water. Weeding, loosening the soil, protection from frost, and fertilizing in the form of potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are also needed. After the onset of autumn frosts, the root collar of the seedlings is covered with earth, and then covered for the winter with spruce branches or dry pine litter, with a piece of film or roofing felt on top to protect it from moisture. Until the seedlings bear fruit, the grapes are not pruned.

There are various techniques for accelerating the fruiting of seedlings - imitation of the dormant period according to Potapenko, grafting a cutting from a seedling onto a strong rootstock and others. Working with seedlings is a matter for patient experimenters, because at least until fruiting we will not know what qualities of the parents will be passed on to this particular baby. But there is a chance that, having adopted all the best from its parents (taste, early ripening, stability), the seedling will become a new and improved form, zoned for a specific zone.

Separating the seeds

To begin to grow, many grape seeds need to be placed in a cool place. In nature, this process takes place while the seeds are underground during the winter.

You can do this natural act right at home. To do this you will need:

Prepare a flat and smooth area for the seeds of this grape. Pour sand or peat moss into a container, preferably sealed, which will be the best option because of its antifungal properties, which in turn help if mold appears on the surface of the seeds.

It is necessary to place the seeds on the surface and cover them with soil mixture.

Cool the grape seeds by placing them in a refrigerator that allows you to control the temperature. The bones must be kept in this condition for three months. An excellent temperature for grape seeds is 1-3 degrees. Under no circumstances should the bones be allowed to freeze.

Preparing for landing

1. Next, the planting material is filled with distilled water and left for twenty-four hours.
2. After soaking, it is recommended to stratify the seeds; this process is called stratification.

To slow down the germination of grains, it is recommended to place the seeds inside a cold, damp place. Natural conditions for inhibition are the presence of seeds in the ground during the winter period. However, to grow at home, it is necessary to stratify and artificially accelerate the germination process.

Delamination

The best time to layer is December. Take the following actions:

• prepare the substrate;
• place the material inside;
• cool;
• left for a certain period.

Substrate

• The bag can be filled with sand, vermiculite, or wet peat moss.
• You can use all of the above, but the best option is peat moss as it has amazing antifungal properties.
• But moss also copes well with the presence of mold - systematically eliminating it.

Plastic bag

It is necessary to pour the prepared soil mixture on top; the layer thickness should be at least one and a half centimeters. Then the planting materials placed inside the bag should be placed in a damp, cool place. The ideal place would be the refrigerator. The shelf life is about ninety days. In this case, under no circumstances should the bag be placed in the freezer - only on the least cold shelf.

In the first half of March, they take out bags of material and plant seeds in pots or other containers filled with fertile soil. It is noteworthy that you need to plant one seed at a time in a separate pot. If a large container is used, the distance between the seeds should be at least four centimeters.

Temperature

It is necessary that the temperature regime be maintained within 20
degrees with a plus sign
, while the night temperature should not fall below fifteen degrees. To maintain optimal temperature conditions, it is necessary to store containers with plantings inside the greenhouse or, as a last resort, use heated mats.

Soil and replanting

The first sprout appeared.

It takes two to eight weeks for the seedlings to break through the soil. It is necessary to constantly monitor growth. You can replant when the sprouts reach eight centimeters. For maximum adaptation, it is worth placing the container indoors until the sprouts reach a length of about thirty centimeters.

Among other things, the seedlings’ root system should become stronger, and five or six leaves should form on the stems.

We continue to grow seedlings in separate pots.

Purpose of cultivation

To determine exactly why you want to grow grapes from seed at home, you need to decide for what purpose you will do this. If you want to feel a little like a creator and breeder, then this method is simply excellent! It will be possible to observe the entire process of plant growth and this is truly an interesting activity, which also requires a lot of trouble. If you want to grow bushes and get a grape harvest, then you should not choose this path. Firstly, this is labor-intensive and complex work that requires training, knowledge and understanding of the basics of selection. Moreover, the first results will appear only after at least 3-4 years. And, secondly, the yield results may be disappointing, due to the fact that the grade will not be maintained. In this case, it is better to plant ready-made seedlings and get a large harvest with the expected characteristics. But, if you still really want to check what will happen, and you have the energy, time and free space on the site for this, then go for it! We will tell you the basic rules for growing grapes from seed at home.

Features of germination in winter

For proper storage and germination of grape cuttings at home, the developmental features of this plant are taken into account. Like other plants, its annual cycle includes phases of vegetation and dormancy. In the vegetative stage, grapes propagate exclusively in spring by layering. When dormancy sets in, propagation is carried out by cuttings. Dormancy for this crop begins at the end of November and continues until the third decade of January. At this time, even under favorable conditions, the kidneys are in a dormant state.

In the last days of January, forced peace sets in. At this time, the vine is already ready to awaken, but the temperature is too low and does not allow the buds to bloom. Therefore, this moment is the most suitable to begin rooting the chibouks.

Germination of cuttings in winter includes several activities:

1. Cuttings are taken in late autumn after the vine enters a dormant state. For this purpose, mature annual shoots with a diameter of 8 mm or more are used. Cuttings are cut from 10 to 15 cm long with two eyes on each. The blanks are left in water for a day to soak. Then they are treated in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, tied in bunches and sent for storage.
2. Bundles of chibouks are stored in a room with stable conditions. The room temperature should be kept below +15 degrees. Otherwise, the cuttings will soon begin to take root on their own. It is best to keep them in the refrigerator, basement or cellar, placing them in a box with sand.
3. Preparations for planting are carried out after wintering. The cuttings are inspected and damaged ones are discarded. Germination usually takes from 3 weeks to 1.5 months. Based on these indicators, the start date for preparation is chosen in order to obtain grape cuttings for germination.
4. Germination is carried out using different methods. In general, they bring the same result.

Preparation

Before germination, the planting material prepared in the fall is removed from the cellar or other storage and inspected. All cuttings with dark spots and traces of mold are thrown away. Stems with black or darkened wood cannot be rooted.

Disinfection

To improve the result, the material prepared for rooting is disinfected. To do this, dilute potassium permanganate in a container with water to obtain a rich pink solution. The rods are placed in it for half an hour, then removed and washed with running water.

Slicing

For short cuttings, this operation consists only of updating the cut. If the vine was stored long, it is cut into pieces 10-15 cm in size, so that each has 2-3 buds. The cut from above is made so that it extends 2 cm above the last eye. It is made at an angle, pointing the sharp end towards the kidney. A straight cut is made from below, with an interval of 1 cm from the bud. The eyes from below are all removed so that the plant does not waste energy on their development.

Soaking

The cut cuttings are placed in settled water for two days. To do this, pour it into a wide basin and place the pieces so that they are completely covered with liquid. It is allowed to soak the chibuki in a bucket, lowering them into the liquid so that the lower third is covered.

Important! If possible, use rainwater or melted snow for soaking.

Waxing

This procedure is not necessary, but is recommended to speed up the development of the root system. Melt the paraffin and dip the upper end of the cutting into it. Paraffinization will not allow the buds to develop. This will encourage the cutting to devote all its energy to growing roots.

Furrowing

In the lower part of the segment, make superficial cuts on the bark with a sharp knife, in which roots will appear in the future. Scratches are made in the longitudinal direction along the bark. This increases the number of roots formed.

Soaking to stimulate growth

To do this, use special preparations sold in gardening stores. They are designed to stimulate growth. They are diluted in water according to the instructions and used for soaking planting material. As a result of soaking, roots appear faster. But if there is no such drug, the procedure is not necessary.

Storing cuttings in winter

For winter storage, prepared bundles of chibouks are wrapped in a damp cloth and covered with moss, sawdust or straw. You can dig them into the ground, form an earthen mound over them and cover them with film. Also, the blanks are stored in a box filled with sand in the basement or in the refrigerator, wrapped in film.

Video: Winter storage of grape cuttings in the basement

They also store it this way: cuttings tied in bunches (according to variety) are placed in sugar or flour bags, leaving a hole 2-3 cm in diameter at the top so that excess moisture does not accumulate. The bag with the preparations should fog up from the inside, but moisture should not flow along the walls. In this state, the blanks can be stored until mid-spring, and even until May or early summer. But in this case, they are put in the refrigerator so that they do not bloom ahead of time.

Some breeders recommend dipping the workpieces in water for 2-3 days and then drying them on newspaper. It would be a good idea to “seal” the sections with paraffin or wax. During storage, check the material for the presence of mold, and if it forms, wipe the branches with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Caring for seedlings and saplings after transplantation into open ground

Grapes from seeds require comprehensive care; the successful cultivation of a young plant depends on it. Care includes watering, loosening the soil, fertilizing, and sheltering for protection from the cold. Let's take a closer look at how to care for the plant.

Seedling care

After planting the seeds in a pot and after the seedlings have germinated, it is important to water the plant regularly to maintain optimal humidity, without which the plant cannot cope. But despite the fact that watering should be carried out regularly, it should not be abused either.

Also, after each watering it is necessary to loosen the top layer of soil.

After the appearance of two to four true leaves, the first feeding of the young plant from the seed should be carried out. Experienced gardeners recommend fertilizing with nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers. After the seedling has become stronger, hardening should be carried out in the open air.

It is also important to monitor the plant to prevent the appearance and development of diseases and pests. Most often, a spider mite and/or felt mite encroaches on a young plant.

High humidity is unpleasant for spider mites, so it is necessary to regularly irrigate the leaves with a spray bottle.

Care after disembarkation

To get fruit-bearing grapes when growing them from seeds, follow some rules. The soil around the plants is loosened and weeded, especially immediately after planting. During the season, the bushes are watered 3-4 times.

In the first year, all shoots are removed, leaving the 3 strongest ones. The next time, they cut off the buds and shoots that have sprouted below the 3 branches selected last season. The inflorescences are torn off: the fruit-bearing young grapes are exhausted, never gaining strength. For the 3rd year, several flowers are left. The crop is allowed to bear fruit fully from 4 years after planting. Formative pruning is repeated every season.

If the planting pit has been fertilized, nutrients begin to be added from the second year. For the winter, the vine is twisted into a ring in a shallow hole and covered with earth.

Preparing seeds for growing seedlings

Suitable seeds are found only in well-ripened berries. It is necessary to remove the seeds in a convenient way, after which they must be thoroughly washed, completely removing any remaining pulp. Now let's move on to sorting.

To grow seedlings at home, choose seeds:

• large, • light brown, • without any damage.

To grow grapes at home, choose quality seeds

After this, place the seeds in nylon or cotton cloth and wrap with plastic wrap on top. This package must be placed in the refrigerator for one or two months. Periodically remove grape seeds from the refrigerator to rinse in cool water. The seeds will be ready for planting when they begin to crack. Remove them from the former packaging, place them on a damp cloth and place them in a warm place.

Planting seeds at home

After waiting for small sprouts to appear on the seeds, proceed to planting. Take suitable cups or pots and fill them with the prepared substrate. How to prepare the right mixture at home? Combine garden soil with humus and river sand. Each component should be taken in the same quantity.

The soil for growing grapes from seed must contain sand.

When planting grape seeds at home, deepen them by 1-1.5 cm. Place the pots in the brightest and warmest place in the house. To be safe, you can cover them with airtight transparent material. In less than ten days, sprouts will appear on the surface of the soil. To do this, of course, you need to monitor soil moisture.

How to choose the right grape seeds for seeds

It is very important to sow high-quality seeds; only from them will a strong, viable plant grow. Grape seeds for planting must meet the following requirements:

• Seeds are collected from well-ripened large, non-deformed berries.
• Rotten or unripe berries are not suitable for collecting seeds from them.
• The seeds should be large and full.
• The shell of the bone is not split, without cracks.
• The color of ripe seeds is dark brown.