How to properly cut grape cuttings and save them until spring

Blank

Cuttings or stems are necessary for obtaining planting material, as well as for grafting. They represent a piece of young annual growth of grape shoots; they can be lignified (ripened) and green.

Beginning gardeners often confuse seedlings and cuttings. The difference is significant: 1-2 year old plants with a root system and growth, used for planting in a permanent place, are seedlings.

The scheme is simple: winegrowers prepare cuttings in the fall, save them until spring, then root them and then plant them in the ground. The options are different. The summer resident chooses the most convenient for himself from the following methods:

• rooting, growing in glasses at home, moving to school;
• rooting and immediately after this (if weather conditions permit) planting in the school.

Regardless of what kind of grape seedling (one- or two-year-old) you want to get, you first need to prepare the required number of cuttings. Before planting in the spring, chopped chibouks can be stored in the cellar, basement, or refrigerator. The choice of location depends on the capabilities of the owner.

Planting cuttings in the ground

After the root system has formed, the shoot is ready for transplantation into open ground. When holding an event in the spring at the end of May or beginning of June, to avoid night frosts:

1. Prepare a pit with fertilizers.
2. Transfer the cutting, make a mound of soil, and water it.
3. Mulch and cover with a jar to protect from direct sunlight.

In the dug hole you can put the remains of last year's leaves, green manure, humus from chicken droppings or mullein. In order for organic matter to break down faster, it is watered with a solution of EM preparations. If you add mineral fertilizers to the soil, some are mixed with the soil, and some are poured onto the bottom of the hole. Mature compost is also suitable for feeding.

After planting the seedlings, the soil layers are compacted and watered with 1 bucket of water. It is necessary to mulch so that the soil does not dry out. The organic layer prevents water from evaporating quickly.

It is recommended to lay a layer of clay at the bottom of the hole if the soil in the area is sandy. This helps retain nutrients in the top layer of soil. On clay soil, it is advisable to mix the soil with gravel, crushed stone or broken brick. This will increase aeration and allow roots to grow faster.

If groundwater comes too close to the area below, the grapes will develop and bear fruit poorly. You will have to build mounds of soil, fence them off to prevent them from being washed away by rain, and then plant planting material in them. If the pit is laid according to all the rules, the seedling does not need fertilizing for 2 years after planting.

Deadlines

Most gardeners prefer to harvest vines in the fall. The approach is correct, and although you have to tinker with storage facilities, the result justifies the expense and hassle. The survival rate of such shoots is higher, therefore, future seedlings turn out strong and healthy. Spring green chibouks are often frozen, with damaged buds, which is why the survival rate is very low.

It is recommended to combine the obligatory autumn pruning of bushes and the preparation of chibouks. Firstly, the crop receives less stress, and secondly, the gardener’s time is saved. The optimal time for pruning is after leaf fall, before frost.

During this period, a significant supply of nutrients and moisture has already accumulated in the shoots. There is no need to rush into harvesting, as there is a long period of dormancy ahead of the crop, when the plant’s basic life processes are inhibited.

In the southern regions, cuttings are harvested at the end of November or at the beginning of December, in the middle zone, in the Moscow region - in the last days of October. Due to special climatic conditions, winegrowers in the North-West, Urals, and Siberia begin cutting vines much earlier. In the Leningrad, Pskov, and Vologda regions, as well as in the regions beyond the Urals, frosts are not uncommon as early as October. So gardeners focus on the climate and weather of a particular area, trying not to rush, but not to be late.

Benefits of propagating grapes in autumn

The optimal autumn period for grape propagation is pruning time (October - November, depending on climate conditions). This is best done after the leaves have fallen, often after the first frost. Experienced gardeners claim that autumn cuttings are the most suitable for subsequent cultivation.

• More details about the advantages of autumn reproduction:
• Over the summer, the grapevine has had time to ripen well, and accordingly, the cuttings cut in the fall will be strong and healthy.
• In autumn, cuttings are cut from bushes that have managed to accumulate a sufficient amount of nutrients. This suggests that the seedlings grown from them will quickly take root and have lasting immunity.
• In harsh winters, the eyes and buds of grapes may suffer from low temperatures, and in the spring there will simply be nothing to choose from for quality cuttings.
• A vine covered for the winter may be damaged by mold and fungal infections and will no longer be suitable for subsequent propagation.
• Grapes can suffer mechanical damage in winter, which will also negatively affect the quality of the cuttings.
• Petioles rooted in autumn are more resistant to transportation.
• In the fall, among the market variety, you can purchase cuttings from varieties that you have been looking for for a long time.
• Spring is a busy period. Everything needs to be sowed, dug, planted, fertilized, and you may not have enough time to properly care for the cuttings, so it’s better to do everything well in the fall.

Vine selection

When planning to cut planting material in the fall, strong, productive grape bushes are noted in the summer. Plants are selected based on yield, size and taste of berries. They will take material for seedlings from them.

Vine selection options:

• By degree of maturity . Unripe and crooked shoots with deformations, spots, and damage are not suitable. A mature vine is straw-yellowish or dark brown (the color depends on the variety), slightly crunches when folded, but does not break. It gives off a pleasant warmth to the touch and does not cool the palm. A simple test will help beginners determine the maturity of branches: dip the tip in a 1% iodine solution and check the cut. If the color remains green, then the vine is immature. When the shade changes to dark purple, almost black, full maturity can be stated.
• By thickness . A vine with a diameter of 7-9 mm is suitable for cutting. Fattening and thin shoots are not suitable; tops and twigs with a loose core are also excluded. According to the observations of winegrowers, cuttings with a loose center most often dry out over the winter and do not “survive” until spring.
• By lenght . Long vines are better suited for winter storage. In the spring, before rooting, they are additionally cut into short pieces.

The best chibouks come from the middle and lower parts of the vine. The tops are immediately removed.

When is the best time to plant grapes?

If you decide to start growing grapes, then you need to understand when you can plant the crop in open ground in the fall or spring, as well as the calendar time frame for the procedure.

in spring

The timing of planting grape seedlings in the spring is determined by air temperature. Planting should begin when the thermometer rises to 15⁰C with a plus sign, and the soil temperature is +10⁰C.

Similar conditions are necessary when planting grapes from cuttings in the spring. When determining the planting day, you need to focus on the climate of the region in which the crop will be cultivated and the weather on the day of the procedure. The timing of spring planting differs in different areas. The optimal timing is:

1. South of the country. Planting is planned for early to mid-April.
2. Middle lane. In these regions, grapes are planted in the soil at the zenith of May.
3. Ural, Siberia and Leningrad region. Planting here often occurs in late May-early June.

in autumn

According to established tradition, in most regions of Russia, planting grape seedlings in the fall is carried out in October.

Attention!

This month is also suitable for planting grape cuttings in the fall.

In October, the temperature ranges from 5 to 15⁰С, which has a positive effect on the planted plant. It is necessary not to be late with the start of planting work, postponing it until the frost period. If less than 3 weeks remain from the day of planting to a steady cold snap, there is a high probability that the young bush will not have time to take root and will freeze in the winter.

It is undesirable to plant grapes when the temperature drops sharply. If there is a need to carry out planting work in cold weather, you need to take care of good shelter for the young bush. The autumn planting dates for different regions are as follows:

1. South of the country. Planting of shrubs begins between the second ten days of October and the end of November.
2. Moscow region. Autumn planting of grapes is planned for the first half of October.
3. Ural, Siberia and Leningrad region. Grapes are planted here at the end of the first autumn month.

There is no clear answer to the question of when it is better to plant a vineyard: in autumn or spring. Each of their terms has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages and disadvantages of spring planting

Pros and cons of autumn planting

Slicing rules

For the procedure, prepare a tool in advance: sharpened pruners or garden knives. They are first disinfected in a saturated solution of potassium permanganate.

The vine is cut into 70-90 cm pieces. Many gardeners prefer to leave up to 6 eyes on the stem.

On a note! You can cut the vine into small pieces (2-4 buds each) if you plan to store the cuttings in the refrigerator.

Immediately below the eye, the vine is cut from below. The upper cut is made a little higher (about 1.2-1.5 cm), and it is directed in the direction opposite to the location of the kidney.

The vines are tied into bundles and must be labeled. Don't rely on memory. Over the winter, the shoots will change color, so without labels it will be difficult to understand the varieties.

Preparing cuttings for storage

Having cut the vine, they try to send it to the prepared place as quickly as possible. It is advisable to carry out all the work in one day, since prolonged exposure of shoots to the air leads to serious loss of moisture.

What they do:

• Planting material is disinfected in special solutions. Suitable: 3% copper sulfate, 1% potassium permanganate. Disinfection of cuttings in potassium permanganate takes no more than 20-30 minutes (lowered into the composition by about 1/3). There is no need to soak copper sulfate in the solution, just spray the pipes. Purchased products such as “Topsin-M” or “Rovral” are also suitable for disinfection (use according to instructions);
• In dry autumn, experienced winegrowers soak the chubuks in cool water for 1.5-2 days before storing them.
• Wipe dry and dry the shoots.

To prevent moisture loss, some gardeners prefer to additionally wax the tips of the branches. To do this, melt a small amount of paraffin in a water bath (buy it at a pharmacy or use candles), add a little garden varnish.

The lower part of the shoots is lowered into the mixture, waiting for the composition to “set”. Pure paraffin does not hold well and chips, so for plasticity, garden varnish is added to the melted mass.

How to germinate cuttings in spring

When to remove grapes from the shelter for germination depends on the climate of the region or the availability of a greenhouse. For the middle zone and the Moscow region, this time falls at the beginning of March, for the south - at the end of January - the first ten days of February.

Signs of cuttings suitable for further use:

• no dried or damaged;
• the ends remained green;
• a dark spot does not appear on the cut of a viable bud.

The material for disinfection is treated with a solution of potassium permanganate for 20–30 minutes. Then soak for a day in clean water at room temperature .

Rooting

New oblique cuts are made on each shank . A distance of 2-3 cm is left between the lower edge and the bud, the upper one is simply refreshed by removing 5 mm of the shoot. To stimulate the formation of roots below, additionally make 3-4 scratches across the cutting with a blade or needle. If desired, this part is dipped in the Kornevin solution.

Rooting methods:

1. Sawdust . Lay soft paper in the box, add 2-3 cm of steamed sawdust, moisten it and place the bunches vertically. The container is placed on a heating radiator or heater. Water is added as it evaporates. Roots appear in 3-4 weeks.
2. Soil . Prepare a mixture of equal parts of peat, sand, humus and turf soil. In small plastic pots or cut-off bottles with holes, make a thick layer of drainage and add soil. Plant the cuttings at a slight angle so that 1-2 buds remain at the top, and water.
3. In water . Place a piece of cotton wool in a glass jar and moisten it. Several blanks are placed inside. During germination, maintain a water level of no more than 1.5–2 cm so that the cuttings do not release the green mass to the detriment of the roots. When the shoots reach a length of 2 cm or more, they are transplanted into a separate container with drainage.
4. Germination in open ground for the Black Sea region and southern regions in late May - early June. Choose a place well warmed by the sun and prepare a bed with loose soil. The top of the cuttings is covered with paraffin to restrain the growth of the crown. Plant in holes with a slight slope, water as a dry crust forms.

Future seedlings are kept in the light and fed once a week with a weak potassium solution or wood ash tincture. Nitrogenous fertilizers cannot be used.

Landing

After 4–6 weeks, the root system will form and several leaves will appear. Step-by-step planting of grapes :

1. The cuttings are taken out of the container and the roots are carefully examined; poorly developed ones are discarded.
2. The elongated tops are pinched.
3. They dig up the area using a spade, add humus and nitroammophoska. Heavy soil is loosened with sand.
4. Make shallow grooves.
5. The cuttings are laid out at intervals of 35–40 cm.
6. Cover with earth so that the top bud is 7–10 cm above the surface.
7. Compact the soil, water and mulch.

By next autumn you will get stronger seedlings , and after wintering they will begin to grow actively.

Storing grape cuttings

Having prepared the planting material, determine it for wintering. The gardener’s task is to provide the chibouks with maximum comfort in order to avoid rotting and damage.

Conditions

Bunches of vines must be stored at a temperature no higher than +7 ºC…+8 ºC. The best mode is 0 ºC…+4 ºC. It is very important to maintain stable humidity levels: 78-90%.

Elevated temperatures lead to premature growth of shoots, consumption of nutrients, and loss of moisture. The cuttings dry out, weaken and subsequently become unsuitable for rooting and planting.

Soil requirements

In the fall, cuttings can be planted in almost any soil, but this must be done correctly. When growing, an abundance of moisture leads to rotting of the roots and infection of the plant with diseases. The height of groundwater should rise to the surface by at least 2 m. This is important for those who want to propagate grapes with chibouks. The soil must be constantly loosened, weeds removed and mulched. Grape seedlings should be planted in previously prepared soil.

It is necessary to enter:

• red brick fragments;
• sand or gravel;
• compost or rotted manure.

Methods

Gardeners, based on their capabilities, use various options for winter storage of chibouks. It is difficult to create optimal conditions in city apartments, so summer residents keep chopped vines in the refrigerator. But this method is suitable only for a small amount of planting material.

Therefore, for large batches of cuttings, storage is prepared in special trenches, as well as in a cellar or basement. But in any case, regular checking of the quality of planting material will be required, if necessary, moistening and culling of damaged specimens.

In the trench

This type of storage of cuttings in winter is practiced by many winegrowers. The location for the trench is chosen on a small hill, excluding areas with close groundwater flow. In the spring, moisture should not accumulate near the storage facility, otherwise there is a high risk of it getting inside the trench.

The ditch is dug in advance, taking into account the number of cuttings to be stored. Depth - up to 90-100 cm, length - based on the size of the batch. The walls and bottom are treated with slaked lime for disinfection. A layer of calcined river sand (“pillow”) is laid, then bunches of grapes are placed. Sprinkle sand on top, then earth.

Add additional snow to the shelter and lightly compact it on top. Be sure to put an identification mark so that you can easily find the storage location in winter.

In the snow

A simple and reliable way is to put the bunches in plastic (bags, bottles) and bury them in a snowdrift. This option is only suitable for those regions where there is a lot of snow, and it lies from autumn to spring.

Cuttings for storage are cut short, into pieces no longer than 38-40 cm. It is convenient to use PET bottles, in which the cuttings will be protected from frost and excessive dampness.

In a place chosen on the site, a depression is dug and a dense “cushion” of snow is built. Its height should be at least 12 cm. Place plastic bottles with cuttings, carefully sprinkle with snow, and compact.

In the basement

If you have a dry cellar, it is easy to preserve the shoots until spring. The main thing is not a damp and clean room, a mandatory check of the vines.

Storage options:

• In plastic bags. The branches are wrapped only in the middle, leaving the ends open.
• In boxes (buckets, containers) with sawdust. To fill, take coniferous waste, pour each bunch, then lightly moisten it with water. In winter, they check the vine by carefully rearranging the bundles and swapping them.
• In boxes or boxes with river sand. Bunches of cuttings are laid vertically or horizontally, sprinkled with calcined sand. Moisten the layer with water, preventing the pipes from losing moisture. If the cellar is dry, the sand will have to be moistened every 3-4 weeks, otherwise the shoots will dry out.

A small number of chibouks are stored this way: a layer of damp sand is poured into a box, shoots are stuck in, and the top is covered with plastic wrap. The cuttings should not touch each other. The humidity and safety of the vines are checked every month.

In a refrigerator

Grape cuttings are stored well using this unusual method. Of course, this option is only suitable if there is little material. For example, the main batch is placed in the basement, and shoots of especially valuable or rare varieties are placed in the refrigerator.

You will need a 1.5-2 liter PET bottle. It is cut in the middle, a layer of sand is poured into the lower part, cuttings are stuck in, and the second half of the bottle is covered on top. Place horizontally on the shelf below or in a box where fruits and vegetables are stored. Monitor the condition of the shoots and temperature conditions. It is important to ensure stable indicators, since the buds will open when the temperature rises, and the shoots will freeze when the temperature drops.

How to preserve chibuki

Autumn cuttings involve long-term winter storage of planting material under certain conditions. One of them is the air temperature not higher than +4°C. Chibouks are also tied into a bundle with a rope or twisted with a soft elastic band.

Available storage methods:

1. Planting material is buried in the cellar in a container with wet sand until the beginning of February.
2. In the garden, they dig a trench along the length of the chibouks, its depth is 50 cm. A layer of sand (up to 10 cm) is laid on the bottom, and bundles of cuttings are laid on top, which are sprinkled with soil, straw, and fallen leaves. Cover the top with plastic film.
3. Optimal storage conditions are created on the refrigerator door. Chubuki are soaked in cold water for 2 days, wrapped in cling film and placed inside kitchen appliances until January.

Preparing for rooting

This is the next stage. The dormant period of grapes ends around the end of winter. Then the cuttings are taken out of storage. They check the suitability of the planting material: bark, cuts, core, absence of traces of mold, rot.

The long vine is cut into short pieces (2-3 eyes) and furrowed. To do this, scratches are made at the bottom of the shoots, carefully cutting through the bark. They furrow to stimulate callus growth and rapid root formation.

Before germination, the chibuki are soaked for a day in ordinary water (only the lower part), then in special solutions with root formation stimulants (“Kornevin”, “Heteroauxin”). Be sure to follow the instructions for the preparations and do not exceed the soaking time.

Subsequently, the shoots are placed in jars (glasses) with water for rooting or germinated in special substrates (moss, coconut shavings).

Properly prepared and stored in winter, chibuki quickly take root and grow well. After planting, they easily adapt, do not get sick, and with proper care, by autumn they become strong seedlings.

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Is it possible to plant cuttings directly into the ground in the fall?

Propagation of grapes by cuttings directly into the ground in the fall is possible only in warm regions. To do this, cut branches are immediately rooted in the ground. Before this, they are kept for a day in a Heteroauxin solution to stimulate the formation of roots. Natural honey is suitable instead of a purchased drug. The temperature of the soaking liquid should be between 30 and 40 degrees.

The cuttings are planted in prepared fertilized soil and covered with soil, leaving the upper growth point above the ground. As branches and leaves grow and form, the film is cut through and the plant is allowed to develop. Shoots of autumn propagation must be watered before frost so that the soil does not dry out until the root system is fully formed.

For the winter, the planted seedlings are covered with agrill, leaves, and other materials, providing protection from freezing. In the spring, with the onset of warmth, the shelter is removed.

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