How to properly transplant adult grapes to a new place

When can grapes be replanted?

There are no universal dates when it is better to replant grapes. The gardener needs to focus on his region and specific climatic conditions.

The optimal time for planting and replanting is considered to be autumn and spring. In autumn, work begins after leaf fall and continues until frost. In the southern regions, where the soil does not freeze in winter, it is permissible to plant during prolonged thaws in January-February.

In spring, wait until the soil thaws. It is important to have time to transplant before the eyes begin to bloom. In spring, the soil is well saturated with moisture, which plants use for their development.

Important! The earlier the bushes are planted (subject to favorable conditions), the better they will take root.

When deciding how to properly replant grapes without loss to the harvest, the gardener must take into account not only the time of the operation, but also the age of the plant.

When is the best time to transplant, taking into account the climate?

The timing of grape transplantation directly depends on the region where it is grown. Therefore, they may differ significantly in the Moscow region and Krasnodar region. Therefore, you should figure out when it is better to do this procedure so that the plant does not suffer.

Spring

This time for replanting is suitable when growing shrubs in the central and northern regions. The procedure must be done before the start of sap flow in the shoots and swelling in the buds. Timing for different areas can vary significantly, so soil temperature is an additional guideline. The grapes begin to awaken at +8 degrees.

In the central regions this happens in the first or second ten days of April, and in the northern regions - in early May.

Autumn

At this time, it is best to carry out the procedure in the southern regions of the country. This must be done 10-14 days after the grapes shed their leaves. This means that the above-ground part has entered the dormant stage, while the root system remains active. Therefore, the bush will have time to take root safely before the arrival of frost.

Transplantation must be carried out from mid-October to early November.

In summer

In the summer, it is not recommended to transplant unless absolutely necessary. But if the procedure cannot be avoided, then it should be done in July. This will allow the seedling to recover and fully take root before winter. The main thing is to control soil moisture and prevent the roots from drying out.

Methods for transplanting adult grape bushes of different ages

The first three years of life of a young plant are considered a seedling. During this period, it is actively forming roots. With age, the old roots thicken, the vital potential of the grapes and its ability to regenerate decreases. This means that the older the plant, the worse it takes root in a new place. Nevertheless, even mature bushes 7-10 years old are capable of producing good yields after transplantation.

How to transplant an adult grape bush:

with a lump of earth;
with an open root system.

For adult bushes, the first method is optimal - with a lump of earth and an intact root system. However, this is not always possible without special equipment.

So, depending on the type of soil and climate, the root system of a grape bush penetrates to the following depth:

in a humid, cool climate - 20-40 cm;
in the south - 40-120 cm;
on sandy soils - 1.5-3.5 m;
on rocks in the southern regions - 3-5 m or more.

Thus, the task of the winegrower when replanting is to preserve as many roots as possible. The older the plant, the larger the earthen lump will be.

One-year-olds, two-year-olds, three-year-olds

Young seedlings are planted from the school to a permanent place at the age of 1-3 years. They can be either with a closed root system or with an open one.

In specialized literature on viticulture, it is advised to do the following:

Select 1-2 most developed shoots on the seedling, remove the rest.
Trim the selected shoots, leaving 2-3 eyes on each.
Remove all roots located above the first or second node from the heel. This should stimulate the development of the primary heel roots.
Shorten the heel roots to 20-25 cm when planting in holes and to 5-7 cm under a hydraulic drill.

Features of transplanting grapes at different times of the year

When planning how to transplant grapes to another place in the fall or spring, the gardener proceeds from the climate of the region and the type of root system of the planting material (closed - ZKS or open - OKS).

Transplanting seedlings in autumn

When replanting in autumn, the undoubted advantage is that in the spring the bush begins to grow early and does not lag behind the rest in development. This means that in the first year after the operation you can get a small harvest.

If you plan to replant grapes from ZKS in the fall, be prepared that the plant will not have time to take root in the new place and will not survive the winter. To avoid this, you need to carefully mulch the soil around the seedling and make a more thorough shelter.

Alternatively, in areas with little snow in the winter and possible frosts, it is recommended to dig up seedlings with ZKS in the fall and plant them only in the spring, organizing a cool winter for them in the basement or cellar. Bushes with ACS are replanted in the fall.

Differences when transplanting in spring and summer

When replanting in spring, there is a possibility that the bush will take a long time to get used to the new conditions, will begin to grow late and, as a result, the vine will not have time to ripen. The harvest with this method of transplantation will have to wait longer.

Important! Planting vegetative grapes in unheated soil will most likely lead to the death of the root system, and therefore the entire bush.

An undoubted advantage of spring planting is that the hole for the plant is prepared well in advance, in the summer or autumn. During the winter months, all fillers added to the pit are compacted and create a more uniform soil.

In summer, replanting adult bushes is not advisable. During the growing season, the plant will spend a lot of energy restoring the roots to the detriment of the development of the above-ground part and may wither. Young vegetative seedlings with a closed root system, which can be transplanted without damaging the roots, are moved to a new location in the summer.

Planting grape seedlings in open ground in spring

One of the main questions is how to properly plant grape seedlings in the spring. The important thing is the correct preparation of planting material and compliance with agricultural technology during the main work. The spring vineyard planting period has its positive and negative sides.

Here it is important to correctly determine the most suitable time for planting, both in terms of timing and weather conditions, so that the seedling feels comfortable in the open ground

Pros and cons of spring planting seedlings

The period of planting grapevines in open ground should be understood as the time when the risk of night frosts is minimized, and the average daily temperature reaches +12-15 degrees.

Grape seedlings in containers before planting

Such conditions allow us to count on the following points and factors:

The grape bush will gain the necessary strength to go into winter, its root system will develop and will be able to not only provide it with nutrients, but will also ensure the first harvest the following year.
In the spring there is time and it is easier to grow a viable seedling from a shank. If all measures are followed, developed material for planting can be obtained from the cuttings after storage.
Warmth and a sufficient amount of moisture allow you to better prepare the place for planting and prepare materials for fertilizing and mulching.
It is more profitable to grow varieties during spring planting - in the second year the plant begins to bear fruit, and in the third year it is able to produce a full harvest. When planted in autumn, the bushes begin to bear fruit with a delay of at least 1 year.
It is also better to plant a bush in the spring because it is less at risk of dying from frost; fungal diseases are practically not found on such bushes.

In addition to the positive aspects, you need to be prepared for unfavorable moments:

When the air temperature rises sharply in the spring, as has been observed in the last few years, a lack of moisture may occur and additional watering will be required.
Planting grapes in the spring will require additional mulching of the soil and the application of organic and mineral fertilizers in large quantities.
When purchasing seedlings at the market or at a garden center, there is a high probability of purchasing diseased or frost-damaged plants.
When planting plants with green leaves, they become the object of attention of animals and insects, so you will have to carefully monitor the shoots and provide protection from uninvited guests.

Germinated seedlings in plastic bottles

Optimal planting dates in different regions

When grapes are planted in open ground in the spring, compliance with the timing of planting seedlings is important. For the southern regions of the country, the optimal timing occurs in the second ten days of April

At this time, the air temperature warms up to +15 degrees, while the soil temperature can reach +20-22 degrees in sunny areas

For the southern regions of the country, the optimal time occurs in the second ten days of April. At this time, the air temperature warms up to +15 degrees, while the soil temperature can reach +20-22 degrees in sunny areas.

For the Middle Zone and Moscow region, the month of May is considered optimal for spring planting in open ground. Usually this is the second or third decade, when spring rains sufficiently saturate the soil and the air warms up to 15-17 average daily degrees.

For the Urals and Siberia, it is recommended to use locally selected varieties, but here, due to the fact that spring is shorter than in the west, planting dates may shift, up to mid-June. It is recommended to develop a detailed grape planting schedule based on medium-term weather forecasts and observation results over the past 5-10 years. For these regions, it is recommended to use a vine that has a well-developed root for planting. This will allow you to get a strong, healthy bush in the fall.

How to replant grapes

In general, the procedure for transplanting grapes to a new place does not differ from regular planting. Only one operation is added - excavation.

How to dig up bushes

The older the plant, the harder it is to dig it up with its entire root system. Procedure:

Dig up the bush at a distance of about 50 cm from the trunk, being careful not to damage the roots of neighboring plants.
Carefully expose the roots. If they go deep into the ground, cut them off. At this stage, the main thing is to preserve the heel and the main roots coming from it.
If it is physically possible, grab the bush directly with a lump of earth and transfer it to a sheet of metal, tarpaulin or into a wheelbarrow, with the help of which they drag the plant to a new planting site.
To prevent the lump from falling apart, you can wrap it in a piece of cloth and bandage it.
If the bush is to be replanted with an open root, gently shake the soil on the roots with your hands or a stake, completely exposing them.

Beginning gardeners doubt whether they need to water the plant before replanting. Watering helps to ensure that the soil does not crumble and holds a lump. If you need to clean the roots, you do not need to water the bush first.

An interesting way to dig up a bush using a hydraulic drill:

The soil around the bush is worked well with a hydraulic drill until it becomes slurry.
Then all the slurry is scooped out, leaving the roots intact.
If there is no hydraulic drill, the bush is dug up and watered until the soil is saturated.

Preparation of planting material

Before or after transplantation, regardless of the age of the bush, the above-ground part must be shortened. 2-3 annual shoots are left on the plant. They are cut 2-3 buds closer to the beginning of the sleeve. If you plan to renew the entire above-ground part, it is cut off at the black head.

Planting grapes in a new place

A new place for the bush is prepared in advance, at least a month in advance, or even better, six months in advance. The planting depth and its method depend on:

climate,
type of soil on the site,
shelter options for the winter,
snow depth and other factors.

Traditionally, in industrial vineyards, bushes are planted in holes or under a hydraulic drill. The latter method is only suitable for young seedlings with a shortened root system.

Recommended planting depth for industrial cultivation:

in the European part - 45-50 cm;
on irrigated fertile soils of Central Asia - 55-60 cm;
on sandy soils - 60-65 cm.

However, in amateur viticulture in Russia, different regions have established their own methods:

in the south, where the soil warms up well and dries out quickly, they are planted in large, pre-fertilized holes to a depth of 40-50 cm;
in the Moscow region, the method of planting in raised ridges to a depth of 30-40 cm is gaining popularity;
in northern viticulture zones, for example in the Urals, grapes are planted in trenches to provide the bushes with good shelter in winter and quick warming in summer.

In areas with poor soil (sand, stone), deep holes 1x1x1 m are made for planting, which are filled with plant residues, rotted manure or humus, and mineral fertilizers. There is no such need on black soils. There it is enough to dig a hole according to the size of the root system and plant the seedling to a depth of no more than 40-45 cm.

Thus, there is no universal planting scheme suitable for all regions. Each winegrower chooses for himself the one that suits the conditions of his site. When transplanting an adult bush, the same rules apply as during normal planting, which we will consider below.

Preliminary soil preparation

The hole for planting grapes should be prepared at a rate twice as large in all respects as a dug earthen ball. It is advisable to start preparing the site a month before moving the bush, so that the soil has time to settle and sufficiently replenish nutrients with the help of fertilizing applied to it.

After planting the plant, only the top layer of soil up to 40 centimeters is used as soil to fill the hole. It is fertilized abundantly using 5 kilograms of humus, 250 grams of wood ash or 30 grams of potassium salt, 100 grams of ammonium sulfate and 250 grams of superphosphate. This dosage is calculated for a hole of 1 square meter.

If the soil in the garden is clayey, then a drainage layer must be laid at the bottom of the planting hole, then a drainage pipe is placed along the side plumb line for irrigation. The upper part of the pipe is brought to the surface; after planting the grapes, water will be poured into it to better moisturize the root system.

After the hole is filled with prepared soil, it is generously filled with water, the soil is compacted and left to settle.

Instructions for transplanting grapes

With a clod of earth and a rooter

Sequence of operations:

The planting pit is prepared in proportion to the earthen coma.
Pour a couple of buckets of water into it.
Lower the bush into the hole and remove the wrapping fabric.
The gaps between the earthen lump and the walls of the pit are gradually covered with earth, watering periodically.
When the hole is completely covered with earth, form a circle around the trunk and once again water the bush abundantly with the addition of a root growth stimulator.

With open root system

Boarding order:

Prepare a hole in advance 15-20 cm deep than the length of the underground trunk of the seedling and water it with water.
10-25 cm of fertile soil mixed with humus and mineral fertilizers is poured onto the bottom.
Before planting, the roots of the seedling are trimmed to 25-30 cm and dipped in a creamy mash (1 part cow manure 2 parts clay).
A mound is made in the center of the hole on which the seedling is placed.
The roots are spread along the slopes of the mound.
The hole with the seedling is filled halfway with soil and watered.
Cover with soil up to surface level.
Form a tree trunk circle and water it abundantly.

Important! In the area of covered viticulture, the base of the shoots after planting should be 1-2 cm below the soil level.

Selection of material for transplantation

Planting material must meet all requirements. Sick, underdeveloped shoots are not suitable for the future harvest. In order to plant vines, it is necessary to select only strong shoots in advance.

Criteria for selecting planting material:

No damage, cracks or stains.
The bark has an even brown color.
The shoot thickness is from 5 mm, length is at least 20 cm, with a green cut.
First-class material must have at least three strong roots, without mold or rot. It is white when cut.
Well-developed buds in the amount of three pieces.
Elastic green leaves without inclusions.

Mistakes when transplanting grapes

If the seedling does not take root and grows poorly, the peculiarities of transplanting adult grapes may not have been taken into account.

Common mistakes:

Late planting in spring. The plant needs time to adapt to new conditions and restore its roots. In addition, in the spring the soil dries out quickly and a seedling with ACS may not have enough soil moisture to start growing.
Early planting in spring. In cold soil, the roots of a vegetating seedling with SCD may die.
Too much root pruning. Having lost the heel roots, an adult bush cannot restore them and receive adequate nutrition.
Planting in a dry pit. The dry layer between the roots and soil moisture prevents the roots from starting to grow.
An attempt to collect a full harvest in the year of transplantation. Excessive load on the bush leads to the fact that the plant wastes its own resources without receiving sufficient nutrition.

Caring for grapes after transplantation

In the first year after transplanting to a new location, the bush needs increased care and attention.

Caring for transplanted grapes

You must be prepared that the plant will not immediately recover and produce full harvests. The inflorescences that form in the first year are cut off completely so that the bush devotes all its energy to restoring the roots.

Watering

The bush is watered in the same way as the rest of the vineyard: by ground method or through a pipe. When choosing the second method, gardeners should take into account the depth of the root layer. For example, if the roots do not penetrate further than 40 cm, and the pipe is buried deeper into the ground, the bush does not receive water when watering.

Depending on soil moisture, 3-5 waterings are carried out per season, every 2 weeks in dry weather and 3-4 weeks in wet weather. For early varieties, watering is completed in mid-July, for late varieties - in mid-August.

Every 15-20 days after rain or watering, loosen the soil around the bush. This prevents the soil from drying out and promotes air flow to the roots.

Feeding

Fertilizers filled into the hole during planting are enough for the first 2 years. During this period, additional feeding is carried out if signs of a lack of elements are visible.

Frost protection

Bushes are prepared for winter in different ways, depending on the growing region:

cover the ground with a mulch layer;
spud;
protect bushes with non-woven material;
The seedlings are covered with soil.

Disease and pest control

During the season, several sprays are carried out with Bordeaux mixture against mildew. In general, the replanted bush is treated in the same way as the rest of the vineyard.

Important! It is advisable to use reduced doses of drugs on a weakened bush.

Selecting a location

The plot for the vineyard is prepared a season in advance. For culture, choose a well-lit, windless place. Preferably this should be on the southwest side. Although many argue that grapes are not picky about the composition of the soil, they still grow better on light loam and black soil and do not like clay soils and saline soils. The culture also feels uncomfortable on sandstones. It is also important that groundwater flows at least two meters from the ground surface.

When planning a garden, you need to take into account that grapes need a lot of free space. It should not be placed next to other growing crops, otherwise there will be competition for nutrients.