How to properly pinch tomatoes so they don't grow upwards

Any plant needs to be looked after. This is especially true for agricultural crops. Many beginners and gardeners wonder how to pinch tomatoes. This is a fairly simple procedure that anyone who wants to get a good harvest should master. Care must be taken daily for results to be noticeable.

Pinching tomato seedlings is one of the most common processes in housekeeping. The size and quality of the resulting harvest directly depends on the correctness of this action. In this case, fewer pests will spread over the surface of the plant, and the quality of the fruit and its taste will improve.

It is quite difficult for novice gardeners to decide whether to pinch tomato seedlings. At the initial stages, difficulties arise in understanding basic concepts. This also includes the following procedures for caring for fruit plants: pruning, cuttings, pinching. All this must be understood and known in order to achieve results. Then you will get a big harvest and pleasure from housekeeping.

What is pinching tomatoes - is it necessary to do it?

The tomato harvest depends on how correctly you form the bush.

The procedure of pinching tomatoes is one of the most important, as it allows you to accelerate the ripening of fruits and improve the external and taste characteristics. The point is to correctly redirect nutrients into the fruit, and not into the growth of new leaves and stems. That is, the vegetative part of the plant is deprived of most of the nutrients for development. All resources are aimed exclusively at fruit ripening.

This procedure has a number of advantages and disadvantages. For example, a bush will not be able to grow due to the fact that it lacks building material. On the other hand, fruits that have already set will definitely ripen, as they will receive all the necessary substances and means for this.

In some countries, a similar operation is performed in order to slow down growth in height, since most southern varieties of tomatoes tend to spread upward.

Pinching tomatoes is as follows. The gardener removes part of the tip of the growing shoot, thereby interrupting its development and supply of nutrients. It is carried out at different periods of the plant’s life. The most common option is for sprouts and once when the plant has reached maturity to speed up the ripening of the fruits. In some cases, it may be performed during other developmental phases.

Leaf trimming

Another technique that helps increase yield is pruning leaves. Removing the lower, old leaves will allow you to receive more air and light. It will help to avoid many diseases, including fungal ones.

Tomatoes should only be shaped in warm and sunny weather. This will allow wounds after pinching, pinching and pruning leaves to heal faster and avoid infections.

But about the leaves: when should they be picked and where?

Most often, the event is held indoors. In the garden, in field conditions, the measure is not always justified, and comes down to the fact that in the middle or end of the growing season the lower leaves of the tomatoes are torn off.

This is also done to reduce the likelihood of contact with bacteria and to prevent late blight. And - to somewhat lighten the load on the bush and speed up ripening.

Towards the end of the growing season, they begin to pick off the leaves after the next cluster ripens, leaving the leaf above the filling one - it is called “nursing”. It is he who ensures photosynthesis and releases the nutrients that he has accumulated.

But in a greenhouse everything is somewhat more complicated.

• Before the first cluster reaches the size and weight inherent to the variety, the leaves are not torn off - they are needed.
• Before starting coloring, remove the lower leaves (under the pouring brush). The upper ones (above the brush) are not touched.
• Next, the lower leaves are picked off situationally after the next cluster ripens.
• But not for everyone - this can reduce yields and destroy plants. The maximum is cut off up to the third cluster - above that until the end of the growing season can be critical.
• Leaves are not removed immediately - one at a time, maximum two per week.

The plant should have at least 12 leaves, at the peak of temperatures - about 14 leaves.

It is important to understand why we actually do this:

1. If there is little sun, the fruits are shaded by leaves, the bush is thickened and the berries are not illuminated;
2. If the plants “fatten”;
3. If we need an ultra-early harvest, the bush develops harmoniously.
4. If we intensively feed and replenish the supply of food: and this is not feeding on the advice of a neighbor “with a spoon of nitroammofoska and beetroot on a bucket.”

What can happen if you pick off a lot of leaves:

• The fruits become smaller, reduce their sugar content and taste - this is due to lack of nutrition. But they ripen earlier.
• Cracking - if you tear off many leaves at once, when watering at the same intensity or when watering immediately after an event. The tomato does not have time to rebuild and consumes so much moisture that it cannot evaporate. It gets into the fruits and they crack. Therefore, water after 1-2 days, slightly reducing watering (not much). And do not pick off more than 1-2 leaves at a time.
• If you start picking off leaves too quickly, too early, it may turn out that the distance between the tassels increases - this is how the plant compensates for the lost green mass. And this is not good for the harvest.

Therefore, the leaves are not picked off immediately, only after the first cluster has gained weight. Next - very carefully. And - if we want larger tomatoes, but are not chasing early ripening - we are not in a hurry to tear off the leaf: it is the key to size and taste, the keeper of sugars and dry substances.

Many people don’t even pick off the lower leaves right away - despite the specter of late blight. Late blight will make its way in July - and the plants have time before that. And there is no need for her to climb a tier higher. However, leaves can interfere with watering on heavily leafed plants and rot if they are deeply buried - in this case, everyone decides what to do best.

As for open ground, at the height of summer temperatures there is no point in depriving the bush of foliage: we can easily lose the harvest: the tomatoes will literally dry out, get crushed and definitely won’t thank us. Here's a story about tomato leaves.

Advantages and disadvantages of the procedure

It is imperative to take care of a cultivated plant at home in order to get a good harvest. Otherwise, incorrect shoots may form and the fruits will never ripen. Pinching tomatoes is one of the fastest and easiest methods. In this case, it is necessary to understand the specifics of implementation so as not to harm the bush. Among the main advantages of performing the procedure, the following should be highlighted:

• Young shoots especially need care.
  That is why it is important to trim them in time to direct growth in the right direction. Pinching helps direct nutrients from the sprouts to the root system. This guarantees better anchorage of the plant in the soil. As a result, it receives more resources and substances for further development. In the initial stages, it is important to correctly identify and distribute nutrients. This will help you get a good harvest in the future.
• Trimming the green areas of tomatoes has a beneficial effect on the development of the fruits themselves. Nutrients actively enter the fruit, so it turns out redder, fuller, and juicier.
• It is important to remove the stem that is located in the center. If this is not done in time, new shoots will begin to develop. They produce small fruits that do not have high taste. The ripening of such fruits occurs before the beginning of September, which delays the harvest.
• If you trim the right part of the plant, the stems and ovaries of future fruits will form in the right places. This promotes rapid development and harvesting from one bush, which is often used by summer residents. This approach is relevant for small areas, since even from one bush you can get a decent amount of tasty fruits.

Note! Tomatoes need to be pinched, as the quantity and quality of the harvest depends on this. This must be done in accordance with all rules. This approach allows you to shorten the ripening time, direct nutrients for fruit development, and ensure the penetration of sunlight to all parts of the bush.

Pinching is not a solution to all tomato care problems, which is something to keep in mind. This procedure is necessary, but you cannot do without other operations if you want to get a good and rich harvest. Without the use of fertilizers, insect control agents and other negative factors, results will not be achieved. Pruning the vegetative part is an auxiliary procedure that allows you to cultivate the plant and improve its taste and external qualities.

The shape of the bush directly depends on the variety you grow.

You should pay attention to one significant disadvantage when pinching. When you cut off part of a plant, you end up with an open part, a wound. It drags on quite quickly. It should be borne in mind that fungus and bacteria can develop in this place, which can cause plant disease. It is necessary to properly process the cut area to avoid such problems. Otherwise, pinching will only cause harm to the plant itself.

Common mistakes

Breaking off side shoots is always stressful for a tomato. To avoid harm, this procedure should be treated carefully. There are super-determinate varieties that do not require pinching at all. These hybrids are very short and fruits develop only on shoots.

Inaccurate plucking, that is, removing a large amount of greenery at one time, is a common mistake. Forming a bush is a gradual procedure.

You should always leave small stumps when pruning a plant. The wound should not be on the main stem, so the cuts will be more likely to heal.

Stepchildren and unnecessary leaves are best removed with a sharp tool. This will ensure an even cut and less stress.

Which varieties need this?

The procedure is carried out regularly to achieve results. It begins from the period of development of the first shoots until the fruits fully ripen. Practiced for almost all plant varieties:

1. Medium height. If they grow in open space, they require mandatory pinching. This is due to the fact that with active growth, the stems are destroyed faster, which negatively affects the fruits themselves. To prevent sprouts from breaking during rainfall and exposure to wind, it is recommended to trim the vegetative part regularly.
2. Indeterminate. These are tall varieties that require pinching, since their growth is practically unlimited. Allows you to form a bush, avoid improper formation of fruits, and speed up the process of their ripening.
3. Dwarf. Does not require mandatory pinching. It is recommended to do this when the shoots do not develop correctly. Used to determine the shape of the bush.

Important! To properly care for the plant and get a good harvest, it is better to pinch. This will help to avoid many problems during the development of the plant, prevent the spread of diseases or other negative influences.

Here is a diagram for pinching different varieties of tomato.

Is it possible to pinch tomato seedlings to prevent them from growing upward?

You need to understand how to pinch tomatoes correctly so as not to harm the plant and get a good harvest. You can pinch seedlings to prevent tomatoes from growing upward at the initial stages. For example, this is done in greenhouses or in small areas where there is little free space for large sprouts.

Removal of the top part of the plant, which is responsible for growth, is required. In this case, all resources will go to the development of the root, after which they will be directed to the fruits. This approach makes it possible to improve the quality of fruits and increase their quantity at the seedling stage. In this case, you should follow the basic rules of implementation to avoid a decrease in yield.

Advice from experienced gardeners

Simple recommendations and reviews from experienced gardeners will help you grow full-fledged seedlings from sowing to planting in a garden bed or greenhouse:

1. Carefully study information about the varieties used and observe sowing dates. Late-ripening varieties that ripen 120–140 days after germination are sown earlier; ultra-early ripening hybrids - later.

2. The seed is treated with a growth stimulator; kept in a solution of potassium permanganate. The treatment will strengthen the immunity of the seedlings.

3. Smooth, strong seedlings are formed in an air- and water-permeable substrate. The loose soil mixture is made up of part leaf soil, three parts peat, two parts humus.

4. Pre-sowing soil preparation is carried out in any way: calcined, disinfected with potassium permanganate, processed in the microwave.

5. Sow 2 – 3 seeds in a separate container. After germination, the strongest seedling is left in the glass.

Strong, hardened seedlings ready to be planted in the ground

6. To prevent deformation of the bushes, the container is turned with the other side towards the window every day. If the container with seedlings is not turned over, it will become clear that the tomatoes have become very elongated and very distorted.

7. Follow the picking schedule. If you are late with planting, the seedlings will begin to stretch out from lack of light and nutrition.

8. If it is clear from the appearance of the bushes that fertilizing is required, use a complex fertilizer that maintains the balance of microelements in the soil. Apply the universal remedy “Master”, calcium nitrate or “Plantafol” - a chelated fertilizer.

9. When planting tomatoes with thin, tall stems in the garden, the lightest areas are allocated.

10. 7 - 10 days before the intended planting on a permanent site, hardening is carried out. First, the bushes are taken out onto the balcony for 1.5 hours. Gradually, the walking time is increased.

Read, it’s very useful to know what diseases there are in tomato seedlings: photos, descriptions, treatment, in the article: - https://mir-ogorodik.ru/bolezni-rassady-tomatov-opisanie-s-fotografiyami-i-sposoby-lecheniya -2/

Types of pinching, how and with what?

Tomatoes are pinched and pinched in the greenhouse and in open areas. These are subtypes of one procedure aimed at improving the quality of tomato fruits. It is necessary to carry out in order to limit the growth of the plant, obtain the harvest on time within the allotted period of time. Then the bush will not be able to outgrow.

Pinching is an operation in which lateral shoots are removed, which slow down the development of fruits. They prevent nutrients from reaching the required areas, which significantly reduces the quality of the tomatoes. Pinching, in turn, helps stop growth in height.

Note! If pinching is done incorrectly, you will not get a rich harvest. The fruits will be sparse, pale and tasteless. Therefore, it is necessary to understand which stems can be plucked off and which ones are better left.

The procedure is performed at the moment when the first inflorescences appear. When pruning, you need to leave a few leaves, which will be responsible for feeding the plant. As it develops, trim off the top to prevent growth.

Stepsons can be done using a similar principle. It is allowed to trim those side stems whose length has not yet reached five centimeters. It is carried out a few weeks after planting the seedlings. The frequency of the operation is once every few weeks. New shoots are eliminated as they appear. Stepchildren, as a rule, are torn off rather than cut off.

Pruning is done as new shoots appear.

How to stop the growth of elongated tomato seedlings

First of all, you need to adjust the lighting and watering mode. There are other means to stop tomatoes from stretching.

Changing the temperature

At temperatures below 16° C, the growth of the above-ground parts of tomatoes slows down, but the roots continue to develop. It is necessary to move the seedlings to a cool, bright place, for example, transfer them to a heated greenhouse, canopy, or barn.

If this is not possible, regular ventilation will help save the seedlings. In this case, the seedlings are covered with newspapers and protected from the flow of cold air in another way. You can place containers with seedlings on the floor - there the temperature is several degrees lower. And artificially illuminated for 14-16 hours a day.

Top dressing

If the cause of skinny shoots and stretching of the tops is excess nitrogen, its effect can be blocked with potassium fertilizers. They should be fed to plants so that they slow down the absorption of nitrates.

Use potassium monophosphate for tomatoes or pecacid, containing the same elements in a different proportion. The drugs cannot harm tomatoes, but they will make them strong and stimulate the growth of roots rather than green mass.

It is impossible to get rid of nitrogen by abundant watering in closed containers. Not only does it have nowhere to go, but the seedlings’ blackleg disease will be added to the problem of pulling out.

Watering

Reducing watering slows down the growth of green mass and the elongation of tomatoes. It is important to maintain a balance here. Poor moisture not only inhibits the growth of tomatoes, but also stimulates the early formation of flower clusters. Only the top layer of the substrate should dry out. If the tomato is still going to bloom, the brush must be removed immediately.

Picking

Picking will help save stretched tomatoes. As soon as the second true leaf appears, prepare individual containers and plant them in the following sequence:

1. Fill the container halfway with the substrate.
2. Carefully, using a special peg or other tool, remove several tomato sprouts from a common container.
3. One is separated, the root, together with a lump of earth, is placed flat in a glass or pot.
4. The stalk is led in a wide spiral, constantly adding substrate so that only the top of the tomato remains on the surface.
5. Watered.
6. Place in a cool, brightly lit place.

It is recommended to plant not just stretched, but overgrown tomatoes in free pots. Until the root completely entwines the earthen ball, the above-ground part will practically not develop. They do the same when there is a lot of time left before moving to a permanent place.

Description of the process of pinching tomatoes

Pinching tomato seedlings is carried out in compliance with all techniques. First you need to wait for the first fruits to set. If the procedure is performed incorrectly, the yield and quality of fruit plants will significantly decrease. To do everything correctly, you need to pay attention to the following diagram step by step:

1. Marking the place where the stems will be cut. This must be done before performing the procedure.
2. To complete the task, use pruning shears or small nail scissors. It is necessary to carefully cut off the stem, leaving a few top leaves.
3. To prevent infection from getting inside, the cut site is treated with ash.

Note! Forming a bush is an important task. If there are too many small shoots, the fruits will not receive enough nutrients.

In the open ground

The question arises, how to pinch tomatoes in the ground. The technology is no different from that described above. The procedure must be performed regularly. Starts in early July and ends in August.

In greenhouse conditions

Tomatoes are often grown in greenhouses. The pinching technology also does not differ from the general one. The main thing is to choose the right time to perform the procedure. Depends on the period of transplantation and planting into the ground. One of the features is that you don’t need to take into account weather conditions when cutting stems. It is important to nourish the plant. You can use polycarbonate and other compounds.

Removing tomato leaves in open ground

In open ground, it is necessary to remove shoots and excess leaves from tomato bushes with the same frequency as in a greenhouse. To do this, you can use pruning shears or just your hands.

The scheme for cutting shoots and leaves is as follows:

1. It is necessary to find small shoots growing where the branches attach to the tomato stem.
2. It is necessary to remove all leaves and shoots that are located below the first inflorescence. It is recommended to remove shoots at the very base, and it is better to remove leaves when they begin to turn yellow. The circumcision procedure should not be carried out during or immediately after rain or watering, as humidity promotes the development of diseases and slows down the healing process of the cut sites.
3. If thick shoots appear, approximately the size of a pencil, then you should not remove them completely, as this can harm the tomato bush. It is necessary to leave a small shoot with one or two leaves. Thick shoots need to be pruned throughout the summer at intervals of 1-2 times a week.
4. For tall bushes, only 4 or 5 branches should be left in bundles; all other side shoots should be removed. Also, vine-shaped bushes need to be tied up after flowering has begun, otherwise the plant will not produce a good harvest.
5. Yellowed and drying leaves should be removed immediately to keep the plant fresh and protected from disease.
6. A month before the first frost, you need to cut off the top of the plant.

Determinate bushes do not need to be pruned or tied up, since they are bred so as not to grow larger than the required size, produce one wave of harvest, and then fade.

You can trim tomatoes using pruning shears or just with your hands. By thinning shrubs from shoots and foliage, you can achieve a good harvest, since the plant will not waste energy on maintaining old or diseased leaves, as well as on the growth of young stepsons. Tomatoes need to be trimmed regardless of where they grow: in open or closed ground. The procedure should be performed 1-2 times a week in the summer. It is recommended to remove the lower leaves immediately, since because of them the required amount of sunlight will not reach the tomato stem, which is why it will be weak and the bush will be infertile.

Should I pinch tomatoes on the windowsill?

Depending on the variety of tomatoes, pinching is necessary even when grown on a windowsill. This is required for indeterminate balcony varieties that are actively growing in height. When setting the first fruits, all side shoots must be removed. There is only one left - the replacement. It is located at the very bottom, collects nutrients from the soil. As the stems ripen, it is necessary to cut off the top over time so that the plant does not begin to actively develop upward.

At home, you can grow tomatoes all year round on the balcony if you follow the care rules. Stepchildren can be used as plant propagation material.

Tomatoes are a tasty and nutritious fruit. If you properly care for the bush, you can get a rich harvest at home. To do this, it is important to follow basic rules and care techniques.

How to plant elongated seedlings in a greenhouse (in the ground)

Overgrown seedlings will take root well in a new place if you follow the planting rules:

1. For hardened bushes, the lower leaves are removed two days before replanting.
2. Deep (0.25 - 0.35 m) grooves are prepared in advance, maintaining a distance between rows of 0.55 m. Pour in ash and superphosphate, mix with soil, and water with a solution of potassium permanganate.
3. An elongated bush with a lump of soil (or in a peat pot) is placed in an inclined position with the crown facing north.
4. Cover with soil up to the top pair of leaves.
5. Water a second time. When the water is absorbed, the soil around the root zone is compacted. Sprinkle dry substrate on top and add mulch.
6. The tops are tied with a strip of fabric to pegs dug at a distance of 0.1 m from the plantings.
7. The planted tomatoes are covered with non-woven material.
8. After 2 - 3 days, the seedlings are fed with yeast infusion (10 g of dry product is diluted in 9 liters of water; after a day, the infusion is stirred well, 1 liter of water is added).

Overgrown seedlings planted in this way will quickly recover and strengthen, and begin bearing fruit in time.

Pulling is a way of survival for a weakened plant, an attempt to compensate for the lack of light, water, and nutrition. Seedlings can become weak at different stages of development. If the reasons for increased growth are found in time, the vegetable crop can be saved. Careful care of the tomato - from the seed placed in the ground to the setting of fruit - will bring a generous harvest.