Worms in onions: what to do, how to get rid of them, how to treat onions against pests

Every gardener on his plot certainly finds a place for, albeit a small, onion bed. Some people want to get fresh greens, which the body has missed so much over the winter, while others want to completely provide themselves with onions. But achieving your goal sometimes turns out to be difficult. Especially if the crop is attacked by pests, the larvae of which summer residents collectively call “worms.” We tell you what insects can destroy onion plantings and how to prevent this.

Methods for treating onions from worms in the garden

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Onions are a vegetable that is essential for preparing most dishes in world cuisine. Its popularity makes housewives think about growing this crop in their garden. The vegetable is easy to care for and resistant to most ailments, but there are some that can cause a lot of trouble and significantly spoil the harvest. The fight against them will be discussed further.

There is a worm in the onion: how to treat it if someone eats the feather, preparations to prevent the worm from eating it

Onions have a specific taste and smell. But these features do not repel, but on the contrary, attract many pests. The fight against them must begin immediately in order to be able to preserve the harvest.

Causes of onion fly worms

The larvae of onion flies, moths, and nematodes pose a great threat to vegetable beds. Worm infestation is indicated by:

• withering and drying of feathers;
• softness of the bulbs, their rotting underground;
• unpleasant odor coming from the plant.

The appearance of worms in onions is due to the following reasons:

1. violation of crop rotation rules; to prevent the appearance of insects, onions should not be planted in the same place for several seasons in a row;
2. improper soil preparation; When digging the ground shallowly, the risk of onion infection by pests increases;
3. use of infected planting material.

For preventative purposes, experienced gardeners recommend planting marigolds in row spaces.

Ways to deal with worms in onions

You can fight onion worms using special chemicals, as well as recipes for homemade solutions.

Processing time selection

You should start adding solutions to kill onion flies immediately after the first signs of damage to vegetables appear.

The frequency of treatment with fungicidal liquids is once during the entire growing season, or every 10-14 days until signs of the disease are completely eliminated in accordance with the instructions for use.

Features of choosing a method of dealing with a worm

When choosing a means to combat onion worms, you need to consider:

• the degree of negative impact on culture,
• level of safety for the environment;
• availability;
• having a detrimental effect on human health;
• affected area.

For small areas it is more advisable to use folk remedies; for treating large areas it is better to use chemical solutions.

To minimize the harm caused to plants, it is recommended to use organic substances and preparations. They enrich the soil with additional nutrition and improve the soil structure.

Prevention of worms

Regular preventive measures will help to avoid the appearance of onion fly larvae. These include:

1. Plowing or digging in the fall of the area where it is planned to plant vegetables in the spring.
2. Watering the soil with potassium permanganate in the spring, before planting planting material.
3. Adding ash to the holes with bulbs.
4. Loosening the soil after each watering to allow moisture to evaporate faster.
5. Timely weeding of beds and removal of garbage from the garden area.
6. Compliance with the rules of crop rotation: you cannot plant onions in the place where legumes previously grew.
7. Placing onion beds among carrots and tomatoes.
8. Dust the area with tobacco dust.
9. Adding ash to the ground, previously mixed with ground red pepper.

The root system of weeds is a favorable environment for the habitat and reproduction of pests and pathogenic microorganisms. Therefore, one of the main recommendations for preventing the appearance of harmful worms in onions is regular high-quality weeding of vegetable beds.

Causes of onion fly worms

The most common and dangerous pest of onions is the onion fly. It is very similar to an ordinary housefly, only ash-gray in color. The fly overwinters in the ground, forming something similar to a yellowish-brown cocoon. At the end of May, when the time for cherry and dandelion blossoms comes, the insect leaves its winter refuge and begins laying eggs. It forms its clutch on onion feathers, since its larvae, white worms, eat onions, garlic and other plants from this family.

After 3–8 days, larvae emerge from the eggs and immediately rush to the bulbs. Having eaten one bulb, they go back into the ground, form cocoons from which flies will emerge, which will give birth to second-generation larvae. They will attack later onion varieties. This is the life cycle of the insect, so it can be found almost everywhere where bulbous crops are grown. But there are places where the pest accumulates in large numbers and causes significant damage to the crop.

The reasons for this may be:

Onion pests

Onions are a vegetable without which cooking dishes in many cuisines around the world is not possible, so in any garden and summer cottage there is always a place for a bed designed for growing this plant. Onions do not require special care, as they are unpretentious plants. However, onions are often plagued by pests that significantly reduce the yield.

Most often, protecting onions from pests comes down to controlling the onion fly.

. These insects are light gray in color, reaching seven millimeters in length, and spend the winter in the ground in the form of yellowish-brown false cocoons. In May, when cherry and dandelion bloom, flies fly out of the false cocoon and begin to actively lay eggs on the onion feathers. After three to eight days, larvae emerge from them and immediately rush to the bulbs to dig into them. The bulb, of course, begins to rot, and the feathers wither, turn yellow and dry out. After pulling out the rotten onion, the larvae go back into the ground, pupate, and the pupae give life to second-generation flies, which again infect the onion with their larvae in July.

The fight against these onion pests comes down to agrotechnical soil cultivation. Onion flies are repelled during the period when they begin to lay eggs. To do this, the rows of onions should be sprinkled with tobacco dust or a mixture of tobacco dust and lime in equal proportions. For ten square meters you will need up to two kilograms of the drug. Please note that this type of onion pest control must be carried out twice to neutralize both generations of flies! There is another remedy - planting carrots near the onion bed. This vegetable contains phytoncides that repel onion flies.

Another enemy of the onion crop is the weevil or onion secrecy.

. These three-millimeter bugs have an elongated head that resembles a proboscis. Weevils appear in the beds already in April. They eat onion feathers, leaving light-colored dots on them. The beetles are not interested in the vegetable itself, but due to the withering of the damaged leaves, the head develops very slowly.

That is why the sooner you manage to treat onions from these pests (pruning, burning leaves, loosening rows), the greater the chance of reaping a good onion harvest.

Round threadworm stem nematode

does no less harm to the onion. These worms penetrate the bulb, feed on the juices of the plant, dooming it to tissue softening, rotting and death. The biggest danger is that these worms can remain dormant for up to five years, and when they enter a favorable environment, the pest becomes active again.

To save onions from this pest, before planting the planting material, it is necessary to soak it in water at room temperature for three days.

If a mature onion, which you just pulled out of the ground, crumbles into dust in your hands, it means that the plant has been attacked by an onion root mite

. These small arthropod insects, which do not exceed one millimeter in length, live in the fleshy scales of the bulbs, penetrating into the bulb as they grow. By eating the pulp, mites turn the vegetable into dust.

You can protect onions from root mites by spraying with decoctions and infusions from tomato tops, potatoes and onion peels.

The effectiveness of natural non-chemical remedies is, of course, lower than that of special preparations, but onions treated with decoctions and infusions do not contain harmful substances. If you leave two kilograms of potato tops in ten liters of water for ten hours, then after spraying there will be no root and spider mites left on the onion. Spraying with an infusion of onion peels (0.2 kilograms of onion peels per 10 liters of warm water, leave for five days) will save onions from aphids and mites. And onion soup will leave your harvest alone after spraying with tobacco infusion (pour 0.4 kilograms of dry tobacco leaves with ten liters of warm water for two days).

As you can see, you can save onions from pests both before planting by treating the soil, and during growth by spraying the beds.

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How to treat onions against worms?

There are several ways to combat the pest: folk remedies, chemicals, and biological products. We will describe below what exactly needs to be used against the onion fly.

Biological drugs

Today, among the existing means of combating various misfortunes in the garden, biological preparations are gaining popularity. They are as effective as chemical fungicides, but accumulate in less quantities in crops.

Trichodermin

If you find that there are small white worms in the garden bed, then you need to take immediate action. Trichodermin is considered the most effective biological agent. To treat the bed with it, you need to prepare a solution (30 g/3 l of water). This solution should be sprayed on the crop in calm and dry weather. The procedure is repeated after a week and a half.

Metronidazole

The drug metronidazole is an antibacterial agent. You can find it in a regular pharmacy. It effectively destroys the pest. The following solution is prepared: 4 tablets are diluted in 10 liters of water. The beds are sprayed with liquid at the rate of 4–6 liters per square meter of area.

Folk remedies

Although biological products are more gentle than chemical ones, they are still capable of accumulating in the vegetable, remaining in it for a short time. Therefore, it is not recommended to use them before harvesting. In this case, you can water the crop using folk remedies.

Ammonia

Among folk remedies, ammonia is considered the most effective remedy against any garden pests. Possessing a rather specific aroma, it not only destroys existing larvae, but also repels flies that want to leave new offspring in the plant. Prepare a solution of 3 tbsp. l. first aid and 10 liters of water. With an interval of 4-5 days, the crop is watered at the root. For preventive purposes, treatment is carried out at intervals of 10–12 days.

Saline solution

Salt is the simplest remedy against onion fly that you always have on hand. Based on it, you can prepare a solution. 300 g of salt are diluted in 10 liters of water. When this product is thoroughly dissolved, water the plant at the root with the solution. Before the treatment procedure, it is necessary to moisten the soil. After a few hours, wash off the salt that has settled on the plant and water the rows with water. The procedure is carried out once a season.

Soap solution

A solution prepared with soap forms a protective film on the plant, so it prevents the pest from reappearing. But the protective barrier remains for a short time. To make the solution, you need to grate 50 g of laundry soap. The crushed product should be poured into 10 liters of water. The bed is sprayed with the product. The procedure is repeated after at least three weeks. If the pest did not die after this remedy, then you need to use other folk recipes.

Dandelion decoction

Onion fly worms also die after dandelion decoction. To prepare it, you need to take 200 g of plant root, chop it well and combine it with 1 liter of boiling water. The liquid must be left for two days, then strained and diluted in 10 liters of water. The beds are treated by spraying through a spray bottle.

Wood ash

Wood ash is not only a good tool for adjusting soil acidity and for fertilizing, but also an effective anti-parasitic substance. You can buy ash ready-made or get it yourself, but to do this you definitely need to burn wood and not some kind of garbage. You need to take 2 kg of it and fill it with 10 liters of water. The liquid should be sprayed throughout the bed. The procedure is carried out at intervals of 14 days.

Chemicals

If there is a need to use chemicals, it is not necessary to use ready-made products. You can find more gentle options.

Potassium permanganate

Ordinary potassium permanganate is an affordable and high-quality disinfectant. Therefore, it will not only help get rid of worms, but will also protect plants from possible manifestations of ailments that arise due to violation of the rules of agricultural practices. For the first treatment, the solution is prepared with a slightly pink color.

Each subsequent treatment, which is carried out after 10-12 days, should be carried out using an increasingly saturated and saturated solution. Any processing is carried out within two days. The plant is watered and sprayed. All this is done on one day and repeated in the same sequence the next.

Copper oxychloride

This is a popular inorganic fungicide, often used in place of Bordeaux mixture. A solution is prepared on its basis: 20 g of product per 10 liters of water. For greater efficiency, it is recommended to add 20 g of laundry soap, crushed using a grater, to the resulting liquid. The resulting product is so effective that it is enough to carry out the treatment once a season.

Worms in onions: figuring out how to save the harvest

Onions are a popular vegetable, and no garden would be complete without them. But, unfortunately, this crop often suffers from various worm parasites, which can greatly spoil the harvest if you do not start fighting them in time.

To choose the right treatment, you need to familiarize yourself with the different types of pests.

Onion fly and its larvae

Onion fly is a common pest that gardeners from any region may encounter. But the danger is not so much itself, but its larvae.

These small (0.8 - 1 cm) light worms can greatly damage your onions, and both the heads and the greens may suffer.

Due to the “activity” of pests, the feathers become sluggish and turn yellow, and the bulb becomes covered with a putrefactive coating and softens, and, in addition, the worms eat large cavities in it.

Onion fly larvae may appear as early as mid-May

The onion fly is an early pest, and its first emergence occurs from the end of April to the first ten days of May. The worms appear during the second and third ten days of May. Repeated invasion of flies - late June - early July, worms appear in the second ten days of July.

Measures to combat onion fly larvae

Try to alternate protective agents so that the larvae do not have time to get used to them.

Protective solutions are recommended to be used early in the morning or in the afternoon.

• A mixture of sand and naphthalene. Rinse the river sand thoroughly and mix with naphthalene, and then scatter it over the beds without creating a layer. For 1 part sand you need to take 10 parts naphthalene. If necessary, repeat after 10 days.
• Herbal infusions. Valerian, pine needles, and wormwood are often used as the main component, because they have a pungent odor that is unpleasant for the larvae: grind 500 g of valerian, add water (10 l) and let it brew for a day. Treat both the soil and the greens with the resulting solution. If necessary, repeat after 10 days. Pour 500 g of pine needles with water (10 l) and leave for 24 hours. Treat both the soil and the greens with the resulting solution. If necessary, repeat after 10 days. Pour 500 g of wormwood with water (10 l) and leave for 24 hours. Treat both the soil and the greens with the resulting solution. If necessary, repeat after 10 days.
• Soap solution. Grind half a piece of laundry soap (you can use a grater) and dissolve it in a bucket (10 liters) of hot water. Once the mixture has cooled, work both the soil and the greens. This treatment can be carried out up to 3 times with a break of 10 days.
• Kerosene. You can use this product after the feathers reach 8–10 cm in length: Dilute 2–3 tbsp. l. substances in a bucket (10 l) of water and use a spray bottle to treat the soil in the garden bed, especially around the bulbs. The solution should not get on the greens. 3 hours after treatment, moisten the bed generously with clean water. If necessary, repeat after 10 days. Fill a bucket (5 l) with sand and pour kerosene (200 ml) into it, mix and place it on the bed next to the bulbs. Repeat the procedure after 10 days.
• Chemical drug. Aktara, Alatar and Fly eater are often used against onion fly larvae. Dilute 5 ml of the drug in a bucket (10 l) of water and treat the plantings. The waiting period is 7 days. Usually 1 treatment is enough. Alatar. Dilute 10 ml of the drug in a bucket (10 l) of water and treat the plantings. The waiting period is 20 days. Usually 1 treatment is enough. This drug is effective at temperatures +12°C - +25°C. Fly eater. Scatter the granules over the surface of the soil (5 g/m2) and loosen them a little. The waiting period is 60 days. Usually 1 treatment is enough.

If you are using a chemical, then refrain from eating greens, as toxic substances accumulate in them.

Ways to prevent onion flies

• At the end of the season, be sure to remove all debris from the beds and dig the soil deeply.
• Maintain crop rotation. So, it is good to place onions after legumes (beans, peas, beans); they can be returned to their original place after 3-4 years.
• Place beds of carrots and onions next to each other. The fact is that the smell of carrots repels onion flies, and the smell of onions repels carrot flies.
• In the spring, when the pest begins to be active, dust the beds with tobacco dust (1 tbsp/m2) or a mixture of tobacco dust and naphthalene, taken in equal parts (1 tbsp/m2). After 10 days you can re-treat.
• A mixture of ash and ground hot pepper, taken in equal parts (1 tbsp/m2), will help prevent flies from attacking onions. After 10 days you can re-treat.
• If the flies have already begun their “activity,” then water the crops with a solution of ammonia (3 tablespoons of the substance per 10 liters of water). After 15 days, you can re-treat.

Wireworm

The wireworm is a dangerous “earth” pest, and young bulbs often suffer from its tricks.

If you notice that the vegetable has begun to wither and has stopped growing, dig up such a head and carefully examine: the affected bulb will be riddled with numerous passages left by pests.

To avoid this situation, pay attention to the soil when digging: a noticeable color (light in young larvae and yellow-brown in older ones) allows you to detect the parasite in time and begin to fight it.

The wireworm can be seen due to its bright color

Measures to combat wireworms

• Use of chemicals. Bazudin is very popular. Apply a mixture of 10 g of the drug and 750 ml of sand between the rows and cover thoroughly with soil. The waiting period is at least 20 days. Usually 1 treatment is enough.
• A solution of potassium permanganate (5 g per 10 liters of water) or ammonia (3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water). It is necessary to water the plantings 2-3 times every 10 days.
• Herbal infusion. Grind celandine (100 g), coltsfoot (200 g), dandelion (200 g) and nettle (500 g), add water (10 l), let it brew for 3 days and water the plantings. This solution can be used 2-3 times with a week break.

Ways to prevent wireworms

• Autumn cleaning and digging of the site.
• Maintaining crop rotation and combining plantings (legumes can be placed in the onion bed if they were not there last season).
• Soil deoxidation. The wireworm does not like neutral soils, so in the fall or 10–15 days before sowing, add ash or lime (300 g/m2) to the soil and dig shallowly.
• You can deal with wireworms using ammonium nitrate, adding it to the soil in the fall or 10–15 days before sowing (20 g/m2).
• Destroy wheatgrass, as this grass encourages the development of harmful worms.

Wheatgrass must be destroyed in a timely manner, as it promotes the development of wireworms

Onion nematode

You can determine that your onion is infected with this parasite only by external signs, since the worms themselves are invisible due to their small size.

The affected heads stop growing and become soft, the leaves dry out and watering does not help, the bottoms fall off or rot.

The fight against the nematode must begin immediately, since the worms move from one bulb to another.

If an onion is infected with an onion nematode, then its bottom begins to rot

Measures to combat onion nematode

• Chemicals. To combat the parasite, you can use percalcite by adding it to the soil a week before sowing. Consumption rate - 300 g/m2. Urea is also effective - a month before sowing, sprinkle it over the area and cover it with a little soil. Consumption rate - 100 g/m2.
• If the nematode takes you by surprise in the middle of the season, then water the onions with a solution of ammonia (3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) 2 times with an interval of 10 days.

A solution of ammonia will help cope with onion nematode

Methods for preventing the appearance of onion nematodes

• Autumn cleaning and digging of the site, compliance with crop rotation.
• Treatment of bulbs before sowing: Prepare a solution of potassium permanganate (2 g of powder per 1 liter of water) and soak the sets for 3 hours one day before sowing. Soak the bulbs in bitter (+45 ° C) water for 1 hour, then dry and sow. Prepare a saline solution ( 100 g of salt per 1 liter of water) and leave the onions in it for 3 hours the day before sowing.

As you can see, getting rid of worms on onions is not difficult, but the job can take a long time.

Use the recipes indicated, do not forget about prevention, and you will definitely get the desired result.

Source: //mydacha.su/chervyaki-v-luke-razbiraemsya-kak-spasti-urozhay/

Worms in onion feathers - what to do?

Adding an article to a new collection

Onions are considered one of the most unpretentious vegetable crops. However, low maintenance does not mean invulnerability from pests. Moreover, not only the bulb suffers from them, but also the above-ground part of the plant.

White worms on onion feathers are a common occurrence. And you will hardly be able to find an experienced summer resident who has not encountered this problem at least once in his life. What is the reason for the appearance of these same worms and, most importantly, how to protect your harvest from them?

Protecting onions from onion flies when planting

As is clear from the description of the pest, control of it should be carried out at the stages of pupa and imago, since nothing can be done with the larva that has penetrated the bulb.

Imago (Latin imago - “image”) is the adult (definitive) stage of individual development of insects and some other arthropods with a complex life cycle. At this stage, animals become capable of reproduction (except in cases of neoteny) and, often, dispersal. Adults do not molt or grow. Wikipedia

https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/Imago

How to plant onions without onion flies

If you take certain preventive measures before planting, it is quite possible to prevent the onion from being damaged by the onion fly. To do this you need:

• Follow the principles of crop rotation - do not plant onions in one area more than once every three to four years.
• Choose for planting adjacent to carrots, tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage. These crops are also good as predecessors.
• Perform pre-winter plowing or deep digging of the soil. Puparia overwintering in the soil rise to the surface and freeze out.

It is convenient to do pre-winter tillage using a cultivator

Plant onions early. Disinfect onion sets before planting in the following ways:

• soak for thirty minutes in a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate;

Before sowing, onion sets can be treated with a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate

soak for two to three hours in a solution of birch tar (1 tablespoon per 1 liter of water); carry out heat treatment in water at a temperature of 45-46 ° C for 10-15 minutes.

In recent years, I have been planting onions before winter (dacha in eastern Ukraine). In the fall, I prepare the bed by plowing it with an electric cultivator to a depth of 18 centimeters, while simultaneously adding humus (one bucket per square meter), superphosphate (30-40 g/m2) and wood ash (1-2 l/m2) to the soil. I level the bed with a rake, and then use a flat cutter to form grooves 5-8 centimeters deep. With the first frost, I plant onion sets, disinfecting them in advance with a solution of potassium permanganate. I fill the grooves with a mixture of garden soil and humus. I prepare this mixture in advance and store it in a relatively warm place until planting. I cover the beds with spruce branches or spunbond. In the spring, several times after watering or rain, I sprinkle the beds with sifted wood ash. I do not use any other treatments. I have no problems with onion flies (and I also do not encounter other onion pests or diseases). Apparently, its pupae - if they exist - die after digging when frost sets in.

Who eats onion greens?

First, you need to figure out who these white worms really are. It would be logical to assume that these are the larvae of some insects. Onions have many ill-wishers: onion hoverfly, onion moth, onion root mite. However, the larvae of the secretive proboscis fly and the onion fly are particularly malicious towards the aboveground part of the plant.

How to tell if an onion has been infected by an onion fly

It is extremely difficult to detect an adult onion fly in your onion plantations. Mainly due to the fact that, thanks to its ashen color, the insect manages to cleverly camouflage itself against the background of dried soil. The eggs or newborn larvae of this fly are so small that it is very difficult to examine them without the help of optical instruments.

The fact that the plantings have become a victim of the onion fly can be found out only when the larvae have already managed to grow sufficiently and “beat up” the plants considerably. The feathers of onions damaged by this pest begin to become covered with yellowish spots and emit a putrid odor. And of course, the most important sign of onion fly infestation of plantings is those same white worms that can be found mainly in the onion, but sometimes also inside the feather.

You can read more about the fight against onion fly in our article:

How to tell if a bow has been infected by an onion stalker

The onion secretive proboscis is a small 2.5-3 mm black beetle with a proboscis bent down. At the end of April - beginning of May, female secretive proboscideans gnaw through the shell of the feather and lay 3-4 eggs in it. After some time, small larvae are born, which eventually reach a length of 5-7 mm. These larvae feed on the inside of the feather, gnawing out longitudinal stripes from the inside, but without damaging the leaf through, which makes them very difficult to notice without violating the integrity of the greenery. 5-7 larvae can feed on one leaf, in some cases their number increases to 15-17.

At some point, the larva gnaws right through the feather and goes underground. There it turns into a pupa, and then into an adult insect. The beetles feed on the tissues of leaves and inflorescences. And yet, mass death of onions from damage by larvae or adults of the secretive proboscis is rare.

The larvae of this insect feed exclusively on onion greens and practically do not harm the underground part of the plant, which is why the onion does not lose the chance to restore its greenery. However, the loss of “foliage” takes a lot of energy from the plant and negatively affects the mass of the bulbs.

Types of worms and symptoms of damage

There are quite a few types of worms that eat onions. They belong to different classes, including insects, mites and worms. The main types of pests and a description of the symptoms of damage are presented below.

Onion fly larva

This is one of the common, very dangerous pests. If white worms with a “dirty” tint and only 1-2 mm long appear in the onion, these are onion fly larvae. Adults reach 8 mm and have yellow, oblong wings. The body color is gray, close to ash.

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Pests lay eggs on seedlings and in the surface layer of soil

The larvae emerge from these eggs within 4-6 days. They move into the rhizome and feed on them. Main signs of invasion:

• mass plantings wither even when the first leaf appears;
• dirty white larvae visible on the soil surface;
• worms also appear in green onions - small holes are noticeable in the feathers, as well as in the turnips;
• the roots begin to rot.

Important! Plants should be watered against onion flies with chemicals, and at the fruiting stage with biological preparations. The pest is very prolific and can quickly spread to neighboring plantings.

Wireworm

The wireworm is the larva of the click beetle. This is another worm that attacks onions, so even at the beginning of the invasion it is necessary to water the plantings with preparations. The development cycle is long, taking several years. All this time the worms are in the soil, they do not come to the surface and at the same time constantly infect the plantings. This is noticeable by the following signs:

• the stems dry out;
• holes appear in the bulbs;
• plants lag behind in development and look sluggish.

If signs of wireworms are detected, it is necessary to immediately water the plantings with chemicals.

Onion nematode

If there is a white worm in the onion, it could be a nematode

This is a dangerous pest that can destroy plantings in just a few days. The body is small, up to 1.5-2 mm in length. The color is white with a yellowish tint. It feeds on plant tissues and lays eggs in it. Then, after 3-5 days, larvae appear from them, which cannot be seen with the naked eye.

Plants should be watered with chemicals or other means at the first symptoms:

• the bulbs soften;
• feathers dry out and turn yellow;
• rhizomes rot;
• roots (from the bottom) and husks fall off;
• the lower part of the stem rots;
• the surface of the heads cracks.

Thrips

A very dangerous pest that affects not only onion plantings, but also the harvest after harvest (in the basement, cellar, and other rooms). It is a small worm growing up to 1.3 mm. The color is brown or dirty yellow, with red eyes. The eggs are white and resemble barrels. Thrips lay eggs in onion stems, so you should water both the root and the green part.

The invasion of this type of worm can be determined by the following signs:

• onions lose growth;
• the stems turn yellow and change shape;
• seedlings begin to rot quickly;
• stripes of white or silver color are noticeable on the foliage;
• the bulbs become smaller.

A characteristic feature of the pest is high fertility

It produces a second generation after three weeks. Therefore, it should be watered with special solutions several times during the spring and summer.

Root mite

Another pest that resembles a worm. It attacks onions and feeds on the pulp of the root crop, causing the latter to rot. The danger is associated with both damage to plantings and already harvested crops. Root mites are barely noticeable - the bodies are 1.0-1.1 mm long, the color is white, sometimes yellow.

They lay eggs (oval shape, white color) directly into the roots of the onion. Therefore, you need to water thoroughly so that the solution penetrates deeply into the soil. Larvae form after 15-20 days. During cold weather, worms may hibernate, but with the return of warmth they become active again.

A bulb affected by a root mite quickly rots

You should water at the first signs of an invasion:

• white coating on foliage;
• drying, yellowing of feathers;
• loss of normal shape of the heads;
• rot, mold on the roots, stems;
• roots falling off the bottom (they die).

Onion weevil

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Among the worms that harm onions, the weevil is dangerous.

It feeds on the juices of the stem, which is why the head stops developing. Adults reach a length of 3 mm, are black in color, and have a noticeable longitudinal stripe along the back.

Already in early May, pests lay white eggs in onion foliage. At this point, the plantings should be watered using folk remedies or special preparations. Treatment is intensified when obvious signs of invasion appear:

• onions stop growing;
• the arrows turn yellow and fade;
• irregularities are noticeable along the edges of the leaves;
• White spots appear on the stems.

Onion hoverfly

This worm reaches no more than 7 mm in length. It has a greenish color with a hint of bronze and 2 stripes along the back of gray color. Outwardly it resembles a fly. In early May, hoverflies penetrate the surface layer of soil and lay eggs, including near onions. After 7-10 days, worms will hatch from them - larvae of a white, dirty color. They begin to feed on pulp, then move back to the soil for the winter.

It is necessary to water plants and soil with insecticides when the following signs appear:

• the stems wither and turn yellow;
• plants stop developing;
• the head softens, its middle turns black;
• Due to the rotting of the onions, an unpleasant smell comes from the garden.

Onion moth

This is a dangerous pest that feeds on onion stems and roots, leading to loss of yield. Mature individuals are small butterflies (up to 1.5 mm) of a brown hue. Already in May, they lay yellow eggs in the onion stems, and a week later worms hatch from them - larvae up to 1 cm long. Numerous brown warts are noticeable on the surface.

Plants need to be watered at the moment when the first signs of invasion begin to appear:

• onions stop growing;
• leaves fade;
• the bulbs rot;
• longitudinal stripes are visible on the stems;
• the arrows turn yellow and fade.

Onion moth caterpillar

How to protect onion feathers from pests

As we remember, it is very difficult to find and neutralize a malicious invader in the initial stages of plant infection. Onions affected by larvae stop growing and become easy prey for other pests. In addition, wounds caused by insect jaws turn into gateways for various infections. That is why plants affected by pests should be disposed of as soon as possible.

Practical experience shows that the best remedy for any pest is systematic prevention. It is on this that all efforts should be directed. The following measures will help protect your beds from the invasion of uninvited guests:

Deep digging of the soil and frequent loosening . The larvae of the secretive proboscis, buried in the ground, set up unique “cradles” there. If you “disturb” the soil around the onion too often, the larvae will not be able to pupate and turn into an adult insect. As for the onion fly, it does not like to lay eggs in loose soil. At the same time, deep autumn digging will disrupt the pests’ plans for a safe winter on your site.

Crop rotation will help avoid the emergence of a stable population of onion fly, but it is not at all certain that it will help in the fight against the secretive proboscis, since the latter prefers to fly to other areas for the winter. However, by constantly changing the “dislocation” of onion beds, you will prevent pathogens that cause diseases of this crop from establishing themselves in any specific area.

Onions and carrots growing close to each other with their smell mutually repel carrot and onion flies.

Removing plant residues . By getting rid of tops, leaves and rotting root crops, you will deprive a significant part of the pests of not only winter shelter. Many of them, in particular the onion stalker, during the period when this year’s onions have not yet had time to grow and gain strength, feed on the plant remains of last year’s onions left in the beds.

Processing of planting material. Before planting, be sure to carefully inspect the bulb sets. Get rid of rotten specimens, as well as bulbs with soft or damaged bottoms. After this, soak healthy planting material in a pink solution of potassium permanganate for 15-20 minutes and dry thoroughly.

The health of onions is largely determined by the quality of planting material

The use of repellents is unlikely to help get rid of the larvae that have already settled inside the onion feathers, but it will discourage adult individuals from your area and they will not be able to lay eggs. To repel insects, treat furrows and row spaces with ash, tobacco dust or its industrial analogues (Tabazol).

As an alternative, you can water the beds once a month with a solution of ammonia (3 tablespoons of alcohol per 10 liters of water) or a product based on tar and laundry soap (30 g of soap and 1 tablespoon of tar per 10 liters of water) from two -repeat three times every two weeks.

Use of chemicals . Before planting the bulbs, you can add preparations such as Fly Eater, Corado, Terradox, Medvetox or Zemlin to the soil. During the growing season, plants can be sprayed with Aktara or Alatar solutions.

The use of insecticides in the process of growing onions is strictly unacceptable!

Growing onions is fraught with certain difficulties, and some factors are simply beyond our control. So, for example, we are not able to stop the rain or somehow influence the air temperature, but we are quite capable of protecting our garden from pest invasion. You shouldn’t wait until the presence of uninvited guests begins to cause irreparable harm to your harvest. Spend as much time as possible on preventing diseases and pests and, of course, follow growing techniques!

Source

How to get rid of pests on onions: 3 traditional methods

There are many methods for controlling pests on onions. For example, I cured onions from parasites using folk remedies. They are safer for both humans and plants:

Are you harvesting onions, and are there “worms” in the bulbs? Find out why the harvest is spoiled and what to do

The plants grow poorly, the leaves turn yellow and dry out prematurely, and when harvesting it turned out that there were “worms” in the onions.
Is this a familiar picture? These are signs of onion fly infestation. In addition, damaged vegetables become soft and rot. Let's look at what kind of nasty larvae eat onions, and how to get rid of them so that the next harvest will be more successful.

What you need to know about the onion fly

The onion fly is an insect that has several stages of development and two generations per summer. The adult is a fly. The first generation flies in the spring during the lilac bloom. It feeds on nectar, and after 5-10 days lays white oblong eggs 1 mm long in the axils of leaves or under lumps of soil.

The larvae, which are born together, do not spread apart, but bite into one bulb and live together. They eat out the cavity and feed on onion tissues. The larvae are white, without legs and heads, and grow up to 10 mm. At the anterior narrower end of the body there are hooked jaws. They develop for 3 weeks, then go into the soil, pupate and turn into brown puparia 4-7 mm long. At the end of June, beginning of July, the second generation flies out and the cycle repeats. The pupae overwinter in the soil at a depth of 4 to 20 cm.

Maliciousness

The pest is dangerous in its larval stage. In damaged plants, the leaves immediately wither, then turn yellow and dry out. Onion fly larvae are carriers of bacteria that cause wet rot. Therefore, the bulbs soften and rot.

Plantings on sandy and loamy soils suffer the most. Especially if the crop is grown in the same place. Vegetables sown with seeds or sets at a late stage are severely damaged. Because by the time the pest leaves, such plants will be in a vulnerable stage of development - in the 2-3 leaf phase.

Methods for controlling onion fly

How to repel onion flies

Mulching the soil near plants with peat gives results. Sprinkling beds with repellents is effective: wood ash with sand in a 1:1 ratio. Repeat the procedure 2-3 times with a break of 7 days.

It is recommended to place beds with carrots next to the onions. Root phytoncides are not liked by the onion fly, and onion phytoncides are not liked by carrot pests.

What to remember

To prevent pests from entering your garden, follow the basic growing rules. Dig up the soil in the fall. Do not be late with planting, so that by the time the flies fly out, the plants have gained strength. Use only healthy seedlings. In mid-May and late June, early July, loosen the rows to destroy onion fly eggs. Sprinkle the beds with wood ash.

Source

What to do if onions are eaten by white worms

If damage to the onion by harmful insects is detected, the diseased plant is immediately removed along with a lump of earth. Then the soil and plantings are treated with chemical or biological preparations and folk remedies.

The following agricultural methods are also used:

• Mustard, marigolds, mint, calendula and carrots, which contain substances that repel pests, are planted next to the onions;
• regularly weed the plantings;
• loosen the soil;
• thin out;
• mulch;
• constantly inspect seedlings;
• observe the watering regime.

All these actions will help prevent insect damage to the onion and will significantly reduce the spread of pests if they appear.

What kind of worms grow in onions?

Bulbs are affected by both true parasitic worms and insect larvae. Most often, gardeners have to fight onion flies, nematodes, and wireworms.

Onion fly larva

This is the most common crop pest. Moreover, the insect causes enormous damage to the crop. Fly larvae devour sets obtained from seeds in the first year, as well as hybrid bulbs that grow in one growing season. They look like small white worms.

In comfortable conditions, the fly produces 2-3 generations of offspring. If you don’t fight the larvae, they gnaw the crop clean, feasting on the roots, pulp, and feathers.

The first generation of worms appears in the spring, when the lilacs bloom. During this period, it is necessary to begin preventive measures.

Wireworm

This is the name of the larva of the click beetle. This is a dangerous soil pest that destroys young bulbs. The affected turnip is dotted with many holes - passages made by worms.

You can notice the wireworm when digging. Large worms have a rich yellow-orange color and are clearly visible against the background of dark earth.

Onion nematode

These worms, which appear in the second half of summer, infect not only onions, but also garlic, root vegetables, and leafy greens. The pest is extremely dangerous because it is incredibly resilient. Getting rid of it is a huge problem. The stem nematode survives even in unfavorable conditions, and when it finds itself in a suitable environment again, it becomes active.

The pest looks like a microscopic round worm, its length does not exceed 1.5 mm. The nematode feeds on plant juices. In the absence of treatment measures, it destroys up to 80% of the crop.

It is useless to fight worms using folk remedies. Only chemicals are used. But even in this case, diseased plants will have to be disposed of so that the parasite does not spread to healthy onions.

Who harms onions

Despite its specific smell, onions attract many different pests. And even experienced gardeners can encounter problems when worms appear in the garden bed. This is also dangerous because insect larvae “attack” the bulbs themselves, and it happens that it is not always possible to notice them immediately.

The worms in the onion, as well as in the stem of the vegetable, are larvae that lay as adults. Among the most dangerous pests:

At the first signs of pest damage: yellowing of feathers, wilting of plants, the appearance of an unpleasant odor near the bulbs, it is necessary to take urgent measures to get rid of pests. At the same time, you should not immediately resort to radical means - chemicals, since there are safer and more effective folk remedies. Well, now about each pest and the fight against it - in more detail.

Onion fly

Perhaps this is the biggest “lover” of vegetables, and also causes serious damage to garden crops. Onions sown with seeds for sets or turnips in an annual crop suffer greatly from fly larvae.

Under favorable conditions, in one season this insect can produce up to two or three generations, which can easily destroy onion plantings. The first invasion of flies in the garden begins in the spring, usually during the flowering period of lilacs. Flies lay eggs, from which larvae then emerge. These are white worms that eat onions and damage the root, bottom, and stem. And at this moment, gardeners need to be alert and not forget about preventive measures.

Signs of onion damage are standard:

• wilting of leaves;
• yellowing of feathers and drying out;
• rotting of bulbs.

How to deal with onion fly?

1. Treating onions and row spacing with ash (dusting) will help. This will not only repel the pest, but will also be an excellent fertilizer for the vegetable.
2. Regularly spray with infusions of herbs with a specific smell (tomato, mint, valerian fir leaves are suitable. The fly really does not like such aromas and prefers to avoid the beds.
3. Water the onions with a salt solution (300 grams of table salt are diluted in a bucket of water).
4. Mulch the beds with rotted manure and peat.
5. Be sure to regularly loosen the soil near the bulbs.

But you can’t think that if we pour this mixture on the onions, the pest will disappear. With large lesions, folk remedies may be ineffective. What to do if such methods of struggle do not help? In this case, chemicals should be used. Among them:

• Fly eater;
• Aktara;
• Tabazol.

These products should be used strictly according to the instructions, without exceeding the dosage. It is important to remember that when treated with chemicals, onions should not be eaten.

Nematode

Another worst enemy of onions, as well as garlic, radishes, and parsley, is the stem nematode. Why is she so dangerous? The pest is hardy and persistent and can remain viable even in dried plants. As soon as it gets into a favorable environment with high humidity, it comes to life.

They are very small round worms, approximately 1-1.5 mm long. Larvae, as well as adults, feed on plant sap. Eels, parasitizing onion crops, can destroy up to 70-80% of the crop.

Signs that the onion has been infected by a nematode are:

• lethargic appearance of plants;
• curvature of leaves;
• “looseness” of the bulb pulp;
• pigmented white or brown spots appear on the bulbs;
• loose fit of the covering scales.

If the weather is dry, the affected onions begin to dry out; in high humidity they rot.

The nematode usually appears in the middle of summer and, unfortunately, there are no effective folk remedies to combat it. Most often, chemicals are used to combat this scourge, and to prevent worms from appearing in onions, it is necessary to properly prepare planting material and follow the rules of growing the crop.

1. Be sure to use healthy seed material for planting.
2. Disinfect the sets and nigella with special compounds (you can make a solution with potassium permanganate).
3. Before planting, it is recommended to warm up the sets for about 15 minutes at a temperature of 45-50ºC.
4. Soaking the seedlings in an infusion of wood ash, keeping the planting material in it for at least two hours.
5. You can also treat the soil before sowing nigella or planting seedlings with a soda solution: dilute 1-2 grams of soda in a liter of water and water the soil.

The nematode is characterized by amazing vitality, it is difficult to fight it, which is why it is so important to take preventive measures in order to prevent this scourge from appearing in the garden. The appearance of the pest can be avoided by sowing seeds or sets early. Under conditions of permissibly low temperatures and low humidity for onions, the nematode practically does not appear.

Means and methods of pest control

If worms have attacked a small garden area, then it is enough to use folk remedies. If the plantation is extensive and the pest infestation is advanced, then chemicals cannot be used.

Folk recipes

Many summer residents try to use safe products that kill worms. Homemade insecticides used in onion beds not only kill parasites, but also saturate the soil with useful substances.

As a result, plants' immunity increases and susceptibility to fungal infection decreases.

Copper oxychloride

Onions are processed in the morning. To make a solution, take 20 g of the substance per 10-liter bucket of water. Add a similar amount of grated laundry soap.

With the help of the drug you can get rid of parasites before the end of the growing season.

Potassium permanganate

The substance kills not only worms, but also fungal infections. For the first treatment, make a weak solution of light pink color. For each subsequent pickling, an increasingly concentrated preparation is prepared.

Treatment with manganese solution is carried out over two days. First, the greens are sprayed and the beds are watered. On the second day, etching is not carried out, but the soil is moistened. On the third day, the treatment is repeated: both spraying and watering.

The product is prepared as for regular feeding. The solution is used to water the beds sown with onions. The drug will not only destroy parasites, but also saturate the soil with nutrients.

Dandelion decoction

For 1 liter of water take 200 g of plant roots. Prepare a decoction and leave it for several days. The saturated liquid is dissolved in a 10-liter bucket of water. Spray the prepared preparation onto the onions.

Soap solution

For a 10-liter bucket of warm water, take 200 g of laundry soap crushed into shavings. Stir until the main component dissolves. Leave to cool.

The solution is used against parasites 3 times during the growing season. They water the soil and spray the onions.

300 g of salt are dissolved in 10 liters of water. The product is used to water the soil affected by worms. Treatment is carried out 3 times per season.

Planting carrots and tomatoes

To repel the onion fly, carrots and tomatoes are planted near the beds where onions grow. An adult insect and its worms cannot live next to these vegetable crops.

Ammonia

Take 60 g of concentrate per large bucket of water. Onion beds are cultivated twice during the growing season. The interval between etchings should be at least a month.

Pharmacy drugs

Chemicals are used if the worms do not respond to folk remedies with death.

Metronidazole

This is a pharmaceutical tablet drug that has an antibiotic effect. It is used against onion flies and nematodes. Metronidazole effectively destroys pests not only on onions, but also on other garden crops.

To make the solution, dissolve 4 powdered tablets in a 10-liter bucket of water. Water the soil with the preparation and spray the onions. If the worm infestation is advanced, then after 2 weeks the treatment is repeated.

Trichodermin

The drug, which is based on a beneficial soil fungus, is used to spray diseased onions. To prepare a solution, take 1 g of product per 1 liter of water.

After spraying, no other treatments are carried out so that the protective film is not washed off from the onion feathers. Etching is repeated after 10 days.

Biological drugs

Using chemicals to kill onion fly larvae is not always useful. If a vegetable is grown for feathers, what should you do, because it will not be possible to eat it. Therefore, it is necessary to turn to effective and safe drugs.

"Trichodermin"

One of the best drugs, Trichodermin, has a wide spectrum of action. It contains biologically active substances that can protect vegetable crops. The effectiveness of the drug lies in its active components, which produce enzymes similar to antibiotics.

The introduction of spore material into the soil can improve the quality characteristics of the soil and suppress the development of pathogenic microorganisms. As soon as the onion fly larvae appear, the beds begin to be treated. The solution is prepared at the rate of 3 grams of powder per 3 liters of water.

Plantings are treated in the morning or evening in calm weather. After spraying, do not water the onions. With abundant watering, active trichodermins can be washed away. To consolidate the result, carry out the procedure again after 10 days, since it is not always possible to get rid of the pest the first time.

"Metronidazole"

Methods to combat worms on onions include the use of the well-known antibacterial agent Metronidazole. The tablets are used against many pests: nematodes, onion flies. A tablet dissolved in water is capable of normalizing a vegetable plant and restoring tissue damaged by pests in just a few treatments. For a garden bed, you need to dissolve 4 tablets of the product in a bucket of water, mix thoroughly and spray. Spraying must be carried out more than once to consolidate the result of the procedure.

You can simply water the plants at the root with a biological solution. Such methods are effective against both pests and fungal infections.