Pumpkin “Russian”: description of the variety, features of cultivation and care

Pumpkin “Rossiyanka” is a productive variety that attracts our gardeners with large, bright orange fruits with sweet pulp. Let's learn how to plant and grow this large-fruited pumpkin, and how to achieve high yields.

Pumpkin "Rossiyanka" is resistant to diseases

Pumpkin "Russian"

Pumpkin "Rossiyanka" has a pleasant taste and aroma

Characteristics and description of the Russian pumpkin

“Rossiyanka” is a large-fruited, self-pollinating variety of early ripening. Good agrotechnical characteristics have made this pumpkin one of the most popular in Russia.

Brief description of the Russian pumpkin:

  • Plant. Climbing, compact. The main stem grows up to 3 m in length. 3 to 4 side branches branch from it. The length of the lashes is 7-8 m. The stem is rounded, covered with hard hairs.
  • Leaves. Large, light green.
  • Roots. Powerful, go into the ground to a depth of 2.5 m. The roots grow to the sides by 4 m.
  • Flowers. Large, yellow-orange in color.
  • Fruit. Large, turban-shaped. The bark is fragile, smooth, glossy. The pulp is loose, low-juicy, orange in color, without fibers. The skin and pulp are the same color. The seeds are whitish in color, smooth. The taste of the pulp is sweetish, the aroma is melon.

Growing regions

The “Rossiyanka” variety was bred by Russian breeders specifically for cultivation in unfavorable climatic conditions. The variety was included in the State Register in 1999.

Pumpkin "Rossiyanka" is recommended for the following regions:

  • Volgo-Vyatsky.
  • East Siberian.
  • Central.
  • Far Eastern.

The variety is grown almost throughout the entire territory of the Russian Federation - in the North-West, Siberia, and the Urals. Thanks to its early ripening, this variety can be grown in regions with short summers.

Ripening time

Pumpkin “Rossiyanka” is a mid-season variety. The ripening period - from emergence to full ripening - is 90-100 days. Ripening times depend on the time of planting - they are individual for each region.

Productivity

The variety "Rossiyanka" is characterized by high yield. If you properly care for the plantings, you can collect 20-25 kg of fruit from one bush. During large-scale cultivation, up to 30-35 tons of pumpkins are collected from 1 hectare.

The average weight of one fruit is 3.5-4 kg. There are also record-breaking pumpkins - some gardeners managed to grow fruits weighing 30 kg or more.

Resistance to diseases and pests

The “Rossiyanka” variety is characterized by average resistance to diseases and pests. This pumpkin is especially often affected by aphids and fungal diseases, which are combated with chemicals and folk remedies.

Purpose of the variety

The fruits are versatile and tasty; they are used to prepare a wide variety of dishes - cereals, juices, salads, soups, and baked goods. The pulp is tender and smells like melon.

The pulp is rich in fats, proteins, carbohydrates, vitamins B, PP, C, and carotenoids. It contains a lot of salts of calcium, iron, magnesium, and contains trace elements - copper, zinc, cobalt. Suitable for dietary purposes.

Beneficial properties of the vegetable, reasons for seed germination and features of consuming sprouted pumpkin

Considering the beneficial properties and vitamin composition of pumpkin, nutritionists recommend consuming the vegetable for people suffering from diseases of the liver, digestive system, kidneys, blood vessels, heart, and eyes. The chemical composition of pumpkin is very diverse; it contains energy components - proteins, carbohydrates, fats, as well as calcium, potassium, magnesium and iron salts, some trace elements - cobalt, copper, zinc, and many vitamins - B group, C, PP, etc. ., carotenoids. Compared to fruits, pumpkin leaves are richer in vitamin C (about 620 mg). Also see the article about pumpkin varieties for Russian gardens.

The seeds contain essential and fatty oils. Fatty oils include linoleic, oleic, stearic, and palmitic. In addition, there are amino acids, phytosterol - cucurbitol, resinous substances with oxycerotic acid, vitamins B1, C, organic acids, carotenoids.

The highest concentration of nutrients is found in fresh pumpkin.

However, many people grow it for winter storage. Pumpkin is stored for a long time - until spring. At the same time, irreversible processes of structural change may begin inside the pumpkin - the seeds germinate, the pulp becomes bitter (alkaloids are released from the sprouts). Why is this happening? With the arrival of spring, the mechanism of natural movement of juices in the fruits is activated, the seeds germinate, hinting at the need for planting. Another reason for seed germination is storing the fruit in a warm room. The third reason is an excess of nitrate levels in the fetus, which is checked through laboratory tests.

Having discovered a similar picture in the fruits in the spring, many housewives are interested in whether it is possible to eat sprouted pumpkin, or whether this should not be done. The opinion of experts in this case is ambivalent. Some people categorically prohibit eating pumpkin with sprouted seeds. They claim that in this state, harmful substances accumulate in the fruits that can cause poisoning of the body. In addition, they indicate that the usefulness of such a pumpkin is negligible. It is strictly not recommended to give it to children.

The opinions of others are not so categorical. They allow the possibility of eating sprouted pumpkin. However, it is recommended that before peeling the pumpkin, you should test it to see if it tastes bitter or not. If the taste is acceptable, it is recommended to cut off the thicker peel and remove excess pulp from the inside and fibers. Of course, after this the edible pulp must be subjected to heat treatment. It’s better to cook sweet porridge with millet or rice with milk. Pumpkin porridge is healthy and low in calories.

Advantages and disadvantages of the variety

The advantages of the “Rossiyanka” variety include:

  • Consistently high yields.
  • Excellent taste.
  • Long-term storage.
  • Pleasant taste and aroma.
  • The fruits are the same size.
  • Disease resistance.
  • Tolerates transportation well.

This variety has practically no disadvantages, except that substandard seeds are often found - empty or deformed.

Protection from diseases and pests

The “Rossiyanka” variety is quite resistant to various diseases and pests. The most dangerous for it is powdery mildew. This fungus spreads primarily through weeds. The disease appears in the form of white powdery spots on the leaves of the plant. The spots quickly increase in size and absorb the entire leaf, which quickly dries out.

As a preventative measure, plants are sprayed with mullein infusion and weeds are removed in time. In case of infection, leaves with signs of disease are torn off and the plant is sprayed with a solution of colloidal sulfur (25 g of sulfur per 5 liters of water).

Cultivation

Pumpkin is grown in two ways - seedlings and direct sowing of seeds in the ground. The seedling method is popular in regions with late spring and short summer. The second option, sowing into the ground, is used mainly in the southern regions of the Russian Federation.

Timing of sowing seeds

The timing of sowing seeds depends on the climate zone and method of cultivation:

  • Seeds are sown at soil temperatures from +15 °C. At lower temperatures, seeds will not germinate.
  • Seeds for seedlings are sown so that after 20-25 days they can be planted in open ground.
  • In the middle zone, sowing begins in mid-May, in regions with a more severe climate - in the last ten days of May. In the southern regions, sowing is carried out in April.

Seed preparation

Pumpkin seeds have a very dense shell, so it is recommended to soak them before planting:

  • Wrap the seeds in a cloth dampened with water.
  • Moisten the fabric from time to time. Temperature: room temperature.
  • When the seeds hatch, place them in the refrigerator. This will be a good hardening, increasing the resistance to cold in adult plants.

Growing seedlings

Due to the sensitivity of the roots, pumpkin does not tolerate transplantation well. To relieve the plant from stress, its seedlings are grown in peat pots with a diameter of 10 cm, then the seedlings are moved into open ground along with the container.

When buying peat pots, pay attention to their composition - it should be indicated on the packaging. The product must contain at least 50% peat. If the pots are cheap, they contain compressed paper. Seedlings grow poorly in fake pots and often die when transplanted.

If there are no peat pots, prepare ordinary containers. They are filled with purchased universal soil or a mixture of peat and sand (1:1) is prepared. No fertilizers are needed.

The procedure for sowing and growing pumpkin seedlings:

  • Moisten the soil before planting.
  • Plant 2 seeds in each pot. Bury them 2 cm, cover them with soil and compact them so that the seeds do not germinate along with the shell, which interferes with the development of the seedlings.
  • Cover the pots with something transparent - film, glass. The optimal temperature is from +23 to +25 °C.
  • When the shoots appear, on the 4-5th day of sowing, choose the strongest of the two. Remove the second one.
  • Remove the film/glass and lower the air temperature to +18-+20 °C so that the sprouts do not stretch and the root system develops intensively.
  • Water the seedlings as the soil dries out. The approximate frequency of watering is once a week.
  • A few days after germination, the temperature must be increased again, to +20-+22 °C.
  • After 20-25 days, if weather conditions permit, the seedlings can be planted in the ground.

In order for the seedlings to grow better, they are fed several times. First, liquid organic fertilizers are applied, then mineral fertilizers.

Soil preparation rules

Pumpkin loves loose, fertile, well-warmed soil. The culture grows worst on damp clay and acidic soils.

Soil preparation procedure:

  • In the fall, dig up the area prepared for planting pumpkins. Digging depth – 20 cm.
  • Add 5 kg of humus, 30 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium chloride per 1 square meter for digging. m. If there is no humus, it can be replaced with manure (per 1 sq. m - 7 kg).
  • To add looseness to the soil, add 1 sq. m a bucket of sand and peat. Add wood ash to acidic soils - about 1 liter.
  • There is no need to dig up the soil in the spring; just loosen it, remove the weeds and water it with hot water.
  • The soil is leveled with a rake in March, and it should remain in this condition until May - before planting the seedlings.

If the soil has not been prepared since the fall, dig it up two days before planting - using half a spade, add 20 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 square meter. m and make holes.

Pumpkin grows well after potatoes, onions, legumes, and root vegetables. It is not recommended to plant it after cucumbers, zucchini, melons and watermelons.

Step-by-step diagram of planting pumpkin seedlings in the ground

Only healthy and strong seedlings are planted in the ground; its signs are:

  • stem – short, thick, strong;
  • internodes are short;
  • three developed true leaves of a rich green color.

Boarding order:

  • Dig holes in advance. Depth – 8-10 cm. Between adjacent holes – 80 cm. Distance between rows – 1.5-2 m.
  • The day before planting, water the seedlings to make them easier to remove from the glasses. If the seedlings are grown in peat pots, it is not necessary to water them in advance.
  • Start planting in the evening. Carefully remove the seedlings from the planting containers and transplant them into the holes. Be careful not to damage the roots. Move seedlings in peat pots into holes along with the container.
  • Bury the seedlings down to the cotyledon leaves.
  • Pour generously with warm water.
  • Sprinkle with soil and mulch with hay dust, straw chaff, sawdust.
  • Make edges around the holes to prevent water from spreading when watering. Some gardeners use old tires instead of sides.
  • If you are not sure about night temperatures, cover the plantings with film until stable heat sets in.

Planting seeds in open ground

To plant pumpkin seeds in open ground, the holes are prepared according to the same scheme as for seedlings - 80 cm between bushes and 1.5-2 m between rows.

The procedure for sowing pumpkin seeds:

  • Pour 5 liters of water into each well. Once absorbed, you can begin planting.
  • Place 3-4 sprouted and hardened seeds in one hole. Place the seeds with their noses down.
  • Embedment depth is 7-8 cm. If the soils are heavy, the embedment depth is reduced to 4 cm.
  • Sprinkle the holes with mulch - humus or peat. Layer thickness – 2 cm.
  • To make seedlings appear faster, cover the plantings with film with small slits. At the same time, the shelter will protect the crops from frost.
  • When the shoots appear, remove the excess ones - you should leave only one sprout per hole, the strongest and healthiest.

Corn and legumes can be planted next to the pumpkin. But zucchini and cucumbers are planted as far as possible, otherwise cross-pollination will worsen the taste of the fruit.

Description of the variety

This species is a large-fruited, early-ripening, productive plant, which is characterized by medium climbing, resistance to cold, and unpretentiousness in cultivation. This variety has a powerful root system, wide leaf apparatus and lashes up to 3 m long.

Technical maturity of the fruit occurs 90-100 days after germination. The plant is small in size and can be grown either in a small area or on a trellis in a vertical position.

It feels great in open ground with proper care and pre-applied organic fertilizers.

The fruits are large in size, round in shape, with orange flesh and have excellent taste and commercial qualities. The skin is hard, smooth, and contains a lot of zinc, so it is recommended to cut it off when preparing the pumpkin for all kinds of dishes.

Caring for Russian pumpkin

The “Rossiyanka” variety is unpretentious and does not require special care. Growing involves performing standard activities. The only nuance in care is the obligatory pinching of the lashes.

Features of watering

Watering is the most important agrotechnical activity in pumpkin care. Large leaves of the plant are a factor that increases moisture evaporation. The plant needs regular watering.

Features of watering the “Rossiyanka” variety:

  • Water norm after planting per 1 sq. m – 3-4 l. When the pumpkin begins to grow, the norm increases to 6-8 liters, then to 10 liters.
  • If there is no rain, then the frequency of watering is 2 times a week.
  • Water the pumpkin only with warm and settled water.
  • Water should not get on the leaves and stems.
  • Watering is especially important during periods of flowering and fruit formation.
  • During fruiting, watering is reduced to once a week. This will allow the fruit to accumulate more sugars and form a strong crust.

Water deficiency leads to crushing of pumpkin fruits.

After watering, the soil is loosened and weeds are removed. Loosening depth is 5-6 cm.

Fertilizing

The amount of pumpkin feeding depends on the soil characteristics. Fertile soil will need two fertilizations per season; depleted soil needs 3-4 applications of fertilizers.

Timing and features of pumpkin feeding:

  • The first time fertilizer is applied in the phase of 5-6 leaves. You can feed the plants with vermicompost or any other organic matter.
  • The second is during active growth of lashes.
  • Further fertilizing is applied every two weeks.
  • It is recommended to alternate mineral and organic fertilizers.
  • At the beginning of fruiting, wood ash is added. For one hole – 80-100 g.

Applied fertilizers:

  1. Organic. Thanks to them, the acidity of the soil is reduced and its microflora is improved. 1-2 liters of liquid organic fertilizers are consumed per plant. To prepare the solution, dilute manure, humus or mullein with water 1:10. It is important that liquid fertilizer does not get on the leaves.
  2. Mineral. It is important to alternate different fertilizers to prevent an overabundance of one or another element. It is recommended to apply mineral fertilizers during flowering and during fruit ripening. Composition of mineral supplements:
      The first mineral supplement is a solution of ammophosphate and urea (15 g per 10 liters of water).
  3. The second feeding is a complex of superphosphate and phosphate fertilizers. Take 20 g of each product per 10 liters of water.
  4. The third feeding is a solution of potassium sulfate. 30-40 g are diluted in 10 liters of water.

Formation of bushes

When 1-2 fruits of at least 10 cm in diameter are formed on the main stem, it needs to be pinched. Then the lateral shoots are pinched - their length should not exceed 50-60 cm.

Rules for forming a bush:

  • After each fruit there should be 4-6 leaves left.
  • For the fruits to be large, no more than 5 ovaries should remain.
  • Pinching is done in the morning.
  • Tools – pruning shears, knife, scissors.
  • At the same time as pruning, the stepsons are removed.
  • Excess leaves are removed to avoid shading of the fruit.

Pollination of bushes

If it rains during the flowering period, pollination problems may occur. Then the gardener must help the plants:

  • Male flowers are picked.
  • Gently touch the male flowers to the female ones.

The male flower differs from the female flower by its tall, thin stem and the absence of a seal – the ovary.

How to harvest and store crops?

Pumpkins are harvested when they reach biological maturity. Harvesting times depend on the growing region and current weather. In most regions, harvest begins in September. The main condition is to remove the fruits before frost.

When cleaning, they focus more on the condition of the pumpkins, rather than on the calendar. The maturity of fruits is determined by their appearance and the condition of the entire plant:

  • yellowed and dried leaves;
  • dried stalk;
  • bright orange peel color;
  • hard crust.

Cleaning Features:

  • pumpkins are harvested in dry weather;
  • the fruits are carefully separated from the stems without damaging the peel;
  • stalk length – 5-6 cm;
  • Immediately after harvesting, the fruit is dried in the sun, if the weather is good - in the open air, in rainy weather - in a dry room.

Storage conditions:

  • Only healthy, undamaged pumpkins are stored for storage. They must have a whole stalk. Specimens with dents and other damage should be consumed as soon as possible - they are not suitable for long-term storage.
  • It is best to store pumpkins in a ventilated cellar or basement.
  • The optimal storage temperature is from +3 to +10 °C. Humidity – 60-85%.
  • The fruits are laid out on shelves or racks with the stalks up - on top of a straw bedding.
  • Adjacent pumpkins should not touch each other.
  • It is not recommended to store fruits near pumpkins - the ethylene they emit harms the storage of the fruits.

During storage, pumpkin fruits ripen - their sugar content increases, and they taste much better than immediately after harvesting. In “Rossiyanka” the pulp reaches its peak sweetness by December.

Diseases and pests: symptoms, control, prevention

The “Rossiyanka” variety is affected by powdery mildew, anthracnose, root rot, bacteriosis and other fungal diseases. The treatment tactics for all diseases are the same - timely spraying with appropriate fungicides and destruction of the affected parts of the plant.

Diseases and pests of Russian pumpkin:

Diseases/pestsSymptoms/harmHow to fight?
Root rotRoot rot leads to the death of the bush.Prophylactically spray with a solution of copper sulfate or ash.
Tobacco mosaicSpots on leaves and stems.Spray with Bordeaux mixture or Fundazol.
BacteriosisThere are spots on the leaves, the fruits are soft.Spray with copper oxychloride.
Powdery mildewWhitish coating on leaves and stems.The plantings are treated with Topaz.
melon aphidPests live in colonies on the plant, sucking juice from leaves, inflorescences and stems. The leaves are twisted, the plant weakens and often dies. For spraying, folk remedies are used - wormwood infusion, soap solution, onion peel decoction. Or they are sprayed with chemicals - “Karbofos”, “Aktellik”.

Preventive measures against diseases and pests:

  • Pull out weeds in a timely manner, regularly weeding the area.
  • Reliable planting material is planted.
  • Do not exceed the norm and frequency of watering.
  • Avoid overdose of nitrogen fertilizers.
  • Maintain crop rotation.

Harvest and storage times

The signal to harvest pumpkins is their biological maturity, which occurs at different times depending on the region of growth. Most often this happens in September. An indispensable condition is the need to do this before the onset of frost.

The biological maturity of pumpkins is indicated by signs in the form of:

  • yellowed and dried leaves;
  • shrunken and hard stalk;
  • bright orange color;
  • hardened fruit surface.

We recommend reading how to correctly determine the ripeness of a pumpkin in the garden.

It is preferable to collect pumpkins in dry weather, being careful not to damage the surface of the fruit.

The fruits are collected, leaving a stalk no shorter than 5 cm, and dried indoors or outdoors at a temperature not lower than +25°C. They are then stored in a well-ventilated basement or cellar with a temperature between +3°C and +10°C and a humidity between 65% and 85%.

Pumpkins are stored on straw with the stems facing up, without touching each other. At the same time, it is extremely undesirable to have apples, pears and other fruits stored nearby, as the ethylene released can significantly shorten the pumpkin’s shelf life. If you carefully adhere to all these conditions, pumpkins can retain their valuable qualities until spring.

Possible difficulties

When growing "Rossiyanka" the following difficulties are possible:

  • If pinching is not done in time, many small pumpkins appear on the bushes. Due to lack of nutrition, they do not have time to grow or mature. The solution to the problem is the timely formation of a bush.
  • If you uncontrollably apply mineral fertilizers, you can harm the plant. Due to an excess of nitrogen, fruits wither, so you need to be careful when applying calcium nitrate, ammonium nitrate and other nitrogen-containing fertilizers. The solution is to alternate organic and mineral fertilizers and adhere to the dosage.

Tips from experienced gardeners

Gardeners with experience in growing pumpkins give the following tips for getting rich harvests:

  • Reduce soil acidity by adding lime and wood ash.
  • Plant only germinated seeds in the ground.
  • Plant pumpkins in raised beds above the ground.
  • Plant seedlings in calm, cloudy weather.
  • Water the plantings with heated water; it should not be colder than +20 °C.
  • Spray the plants with whey diluted in water.

A video review of the Russian pumpkin can be seen in the following video:

Farmers' reviews about the variety

★★★★★
Svetlana, 30 years old, amateur gardener, Belorechensk. The variety is very tasty.
I plant seeds directly into the holes. When baked, it’s like sweet carrots. Pumpkins grow up to 4.5 kg. The bush yields up to 25 kg. Pumpkins can be stored at least until December. ★★★★★
Peter, 45 years old, summer resident, Kashira. I planted pumpkins for the first time, and it turned out to be the “Rossiyanka” variety.
For some reason, the bush took a long time to grow; the fruits began to set only at the end of July. I fed it with mullein and left two vines on the bush - there were 2 pumpkins on each. Grew up to 4 kg. I think that the growth retardation is due to the fact that I did not use superphosphate on time. Hide

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Growing Russian pumpkin is an activity that does not require a lot of time and money. Large and stable yields, excellent presentation, good shelf life and excellent taste make this variety profitable for cultivation, both for one’s own needs and for sale.

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