Grapes in Udmurtia: planting and care, rules for growing in open ground, the best varieties

The grape is considered to be a sunny berry, grown in southern and warm regions. However, the cultivation of this healthy and tasty crop is becoming an exciting activity for residents of different regions of Russia, including harsh Udmurtia.

By choosing the right grape variety and properly caring for the shrubs, gardeners in Udmurtia achieve high yields of this valuable berry from year to year. Where and how best to plant a grape bush to ensure its optimal development? How to care for a vineyard in Udmurtia? What are the features of growing grapes in this climate zone? And finally, what are the best varieties to choose for planting grapes in Udmurtia? In this article we will try to expand on the topic as much as possible, supplementing the selection with recommendations from practicing gardeners and a thematic video master class.

Autumn planting

Many gardeners prefer to plant grapes in the fall, and here's why.

At this time of year it is easier to find suitable quality planting material.
Seedlings do not need to be stored until spring, so there is no risk of their spoilage.
The soil is moist enough, the young plant does not require frequent watering.
Plants planted in the fall are less sick and grow faster, since in early spring, when the snow melts, they receive a large amount of nutrients.

The technology for growing grapes is the same as in spring. The only difficulty is to create conditions for young plants to winter comfortably.

The seedling needs to be watered thoroughly.
Insert a peg next to it, which will become a support for the winter shelter.
Mulch the surrounding soil to retain moisture.
Sprinkle the plant with a thick layer of soil above the top bud.
Place a plastic jar on the peg.
Sprinkle the entire structure with soil on top and cover with dry branches.

In winter, you need to take measures to retain snow - a snowdrift will create additional warmth for the plant, which will allow it to survive even the bitterest frosts.

Seedling of grapes

In the summer months, growing and caring for grapes does not involve pruning perennial shoots, but you cannot do without removing some green parts of the plant. Depending on the grape variety, the load the bush experiences, as well as the cultivation conditions, plants can produce a significant number of second-order shoots from the buds on the shoots of the current year. If you do not remove such stepsons, they take away much-needed nutrients from the future crop and shade the entire bush. Excessive bush density is a serious risk factor for the development of grape diseases such as mildew and powdery mildew. Therefore, you should not wait for parasitic shoots to grow.

If in regions with short summers, the stepsoning of grapes involves the complete removal of shoots already at the initial stages of development, then in the south, especially when growing early varieties, the stepsons are only shortened in order to obtain an additional harvest of sweet berries by the fall.

And in some cases, for example, when the vine suffers from frost or hail, the grapes are not planted at all. Stepchildren replace the lack of green mass on the bush and help resume the development of the bush.

Recommended varieties for growing grapes in the middle zone

For full development and timely harvesting, the cultivated variety must have certain characteristics:

Short growing season - from bud swelling to berry ripeness it takes no more than 95-120 days. In a short summer, the crop should grow green and produce a good harvest.
Frost resistance - the variety should safely tolerate temperatures down to -20 degrees.
Resistance to fungal infections - these regions have a hot, rainy summer season, and strong immunity will allow the crop to resist diseases and survive in the existing conditions.

Table varieties

Planting grapes in the middle zone for beginning gardeners starts with choosing the optimal crop variety. Table varieties are especially popular in the region.

Arcadia

Fruiting begins in the second year of growth. The growing season is 115-120 days. Frost resistance - up to -23 degrees. The brush of a wide cone shape can reach a weight of 700 g. The fruits are white-amber in color. One specimen produces up to 40 kg of berries.

Victoria

The variety forms clusters with berries of a red-raspberry hue. Average weight - 800 g. Fruit harvesting occurs in August. The culture is not afraid of even the most severe winter. Frost resistance up to -27 degrees. Up to 45-50 kg of fruits are collected from a specimen.

Northern

The plant forms cylindrical fruit clusters with an average weight of 200 g. The berries are harvested in late summer - early autumn. The fruits have a round shape, a rich blue hue with a slight waxy coating. The bushes do not require shelter for the winter period, because the crop can withstand frost down to -30 degrees.

Codrianca

An early hybrid variety with resistance to -22 degrees. The ripening period of the crop takes 110-120 days. The fruits are violet-blue in color, have an oval-elongated shape and a matte surface. According to breeders, up to 13-14 tons of aromatic berries are harvested from 1 hectare.

Diana

Table grapes of medium ripening period. Harvesting begins in the second ten days of September. One bunch reaches a weight of 450-500 g. The fruits have an elastic green-yellow skin. During the season, 13 tons of crops are harvested from 1 hectare of vineyard.

Has weak immunity and is often affected by fungal infections.

Technical varieties

Used to produce aromatic, rich wine. The berries need enough sunlight to pick up sugar and flavor. Elite grape varieties allow you to grow crops and prepare an amazing drink in conditions of a short period of solar activity.

Crystal

Forms small yellow-green fruits and clusters weighing up to 300 g. The technical maturity of the berries occurs at the end of summer. There is no need to cover the bushes for wintering, because the variety can withstand frosts down to -29 degrees. The fruits contain large amounts of sugar. From 1 hectare they get 160-200 centners of harvest.

Siegerrebe

Early ripening appearance. The clusters do not have a clear shape, the fruits are pink in color with a small stone. Yield indicators directly depend on climate and the amount of fertilizing. The average collection rate per 1 hectare is 50-120 c. A peculiarity of the culture is the shedding of berries after ripening. The variety is excellent for blending.

Solaris

Ultra-early grapes with bushes prone to strong growth. In winter, the crop tolerates cold temperatures down to -25 degrees without serious consequences. The average weight of a bunch reaches 150-200 g. The berries are light yellow in color with a greenish tint.

Bacchus

Early ripening wine variety. The bush is capable of forming dense clusters with an average weight of about 300 g. The fruits are the same size, yellow-green in color. The berries are juicy and sweet. The plant is often affected by oidium.

Bianca

A sweet white grape variety with a delicate almond aftertaste. The berries reach ripeness in a short time. Sufficiently loose clusters do not exceed 200 g in weight. The fruits are ideal for making dessert wine. The bush can withstand cold temperatures down to -27 degrees.

Harvesting takes place in the second half of August.

How to feed grapes

With the beginning of the fruiting period, regular feeding of the grapes is required. It is advisable to carry it out 3 times per season. Moreover, it should be taken into account that the first takes place before flowering, and the second 2 weeks after it. For this purpose, mineral and organic fertilizers are used. They are diluted in water and the resulting solution is watered on the bushes.

The third feeding of grapes should be done before the berries begin to ripen. It completely eliminates the use of organic matter, which is replaced with wood ash.

Region specifics

The climate of the Urals varies from north to south from subarctic to continental. This means that winters throughout the region are very cold with high snow cover. The temperature often drops to -35-40. Summers are quite cold, characterized by large amounts of precipitation and significant temperature changes. Low mountains do not prevent the penetration of arctic air, so even at the height of summer, sharp frosts are possible.

By all indications, the climatic conditions of the Urals are not suitable for growing such a heat-loving crop as grapes. Actually this is not true. Of course, the northern regions adjacent to the Arctic are not suitable for viticulture, but in the rest of the territory grapes are successfully grown and a good harvest is obtained. All varieties that grow well and produce a bountiful harvest in the Ural region are obtained as a result of breeding work. Read about grapes in Siberia here.

How to tie grapes

As the grapes grow during the growing season, the shoots are tied several times to horizontal rows of trellises or secured to other types of supports. At the same time, gartering, during which the shoots are evenly distributed in one or two planes, serves to solve several problems:

The plant is provided with the best light and air conditions.
It is easier to trim and normalize the green mass and ovary.
It makes it easier to carry out foliar feeding of grapes, as well as “green pruning”.
Vertically located shoots grow and ripen better.
The risk of developing grape diseases and being damaged by pests is reduced.
A novice winegrower should know when and how to tie up grapes.

The first time you need to fix the position of the shoots is when they are about 40–50 cm long and reach the bottom row on the trellis. Then, as they grow, the stems are tied sequentially to all rows.

As a garter material, it is better to take scraps of textile or knitwear, natural twine or twine, that is, means that do not compress or pinch growing shoots. It is convenient to use a special tool for tying up grape seedlings, which loosely fixes the shoots using a plastic clip. On trellises, where the wire is stretched in two parallel rows, the shoots are only brought into such a gap, and the resulting mustaches are firmly fixed to the support over time. If you are caring for grapes grown on an arbor or canopy, where free twining of growth is provided, then there is no need to tie up such shoots.

Formation of the vine

For proper development of the grapevine in the first three years, you should:

constantly loosen the soil and destroy weeds;
carry out spring catarrhing annually: to do this, dig up the stem to the first branch to a depth of 20 cm, remove the thin roots and fill it up again;
spray plants with 3% Bordeaux mixture before active growth begins to prevent diseases;
switch to an enhanced watering regime during the growing season.

This method allows you to prevent overload and depletion of the plant. When the shoots reach a length of 80 centimeters, they must first be tied to pegs and then to a trellis in the desired direction. A trellis is the simplest type of support for grapes. It consists of one plane, up to 220 centimeters high. A wire is pulled between such supports to form grapes.

Growing and caring for the vine is not too difficult, but it helps to achieve a good harvest.

Growing and caring for grapes on a personal plot

Grown for thousands of years, grapes have undergone major changes over the past couple of centuries. Many new varieties have appeared that regularly produce harvests even in those regions where they had never heard of wine berries before. Breeders have developed not only winter-hardy varieties, but also species that are less affected by crop-threatening diseases, producing extra-large bunches and incredibly tasty berries that are completely seedless. And yet, winegrowers know that you can get a decent return from even the most productive and unpretentious variety by investing a lot of work and skill in growing and caring for grapes.

The first contribution to the future harvest, after planting the seedlings in the ground, is the formation of the grape bush, which begins in the first year of the plant’s life and, together with the shape of the plant’s crown, determines its fruiting.

With a competent approach, by the fourth year the bush takes on its final form, but this does not mean that the winegrower’s work is completed.

The first stage of cultivation is choosing a variety

Of course, when choosing varieties for cultivation, you must first take into account the harsh climatic conditions of Udmurtia. These must be frost-resistant varieties that have been tested in practice.

If you choose more heat-loving options, you can be sure that in winter such a plant will freeze during the spring frosts or die completely during the severe winter cold.

In Udmurtia, breeders recommend planting an early ripening grape variety adapted to cold conditions.

The grapes of the above-mentioned variety ripen within 130 days and tolerate temperature fluctuations and seasonal decreases well. It has minimal heat requirements and ripens well. The latter quality applies to both the vine and the berries themselves.

There are many universal varieties; among the huge list, the most popular ones can be identified:

Donskoy agate is an extremely early variety, an interspecific hybrid. It has good transportability and keeping quality. Withstands frosts down to -26 degrees.
Aleshenkin is an early variety, a table variety, characterized by increased productivity and a significant mass of clusters (up to 2.5 kg).
Volzhsky is an early hybrid, table variety, characterized by increased resistance to common diseases.
Delight is a hybrid, vigorously growing, and tolerates frost and long-term transportation well.
Far Eastern Ramminga - early, frost-resistant. The downside is that it cannot be transported.
Pearl Sabo is an early ripening variety, medium-sized, winters well, and has a specific pleasant aroma.
Shasla Ramminga – disease resistant, early.
Northern - very early, vigorous.
A special one - an extremely early variety that overwinters well.

This is not a complete list of varieties that are successfully grown in Udmurtia. There are also varieties of medium yield. And all of them, being properly planted, with proper care, will delight you with an excellent harvest.

Features of the structure of the bush

The above-ground and underground parts of the grape bush should develop organically - the root system should be able to penetrate 2.5-3 meters into the bowels of the earth, which is slightly below the freezing point of the soil. This will help the bush to overwinter without the risk of freezing of the root system. The peculiarity of the roots is that their development continues both in summer and winter.

The thickened (upper) underground part is the “head”; the development of the above-ground part of the perennial vine and the formation of shrub branches depend on its health. The thinnest shoots emerge from each sleeve. The number of sleeves depends on the characteristics of the variety - from 1 to 6 pieces. Shooting is different:

Fruit shoots - fruit buds form on them.
Annuals are formed in the current season.
Ripe - last season's earnings.

The leaves of different vines differ in their dissection into 3 or 5 lobes. The vine is a vine that clings to a support with thin, curly shoots. The tendrils are strong enough to hold the branches with the plant on the trellis.

Grapes are a perennial plant with an average fruiting period of 40 years.

How to properly cover grapes for the winter in Siberia

There are many methods for covering grapes in the Siberian regions, because every gardener chooses the option that will be the most accessible and simple for him.

Here are some popular examples of constructing a protective layer:

Option 1. After removing the shoots from the supports, they are cut off and laid on sawdust or boards, additionally covering them with spruce branches on top. It retains snow well, but for additional insulation it is advisable to use a layer of covering material (for example, you can wrap the vine in front of it with polyethylene or roofing felt). To prevent the vine from rising from the surface of the ground, it is attached to it with special metal brackets or wooden hooks.
Option 2. It is used more often than the previous one, since it does not require practically any special materials from the winegrower to cover the bushes. To protect them from the frosty winter, mainly only soil and snow are used, under which the grapes are well preserved even in the harshest winters. In this case, the vines are tied into bundles and placed in specially dug trenches, which are then covered with soil to a height of about 30 cm from the surface of the earth. When snow falls, the layer of cover will become even larger, which will further insulate the branches.
Option 3. Sometimes fallen leaves are used as a covering material. It is poured in a thick layer (at least 30–35 cm) on top of grape shoots fixed close to the ground, and a film is pulled on top. To prevent fallen snow from sliding on it, you can also lay a layer of raspberry stems or dried sunflower tops on top. After snow falls, it must be covered with a layer of at least 50–60 cm.

Grapes in Udmurtia: plant care

When caring for grapes, you need to especially carefully “cherish” young seedlings that have not yet matured. The first year after planting becomes the most painstaking for winegrowers. Watering, loosening, fertilizing, sheltering for the winter and removing stepchildren are the main agrotechnical activities of gardeners during the growing season of the plant. A positive aspect of the cold climate of the Udmurt region is the almost complete absence of diseases and pests of grapes.

So, let's start with the most important gardening work for this region.

Sheltering grapes in Udmurtia for the winter

Taking into account the peculiarities of the climatic conditions of Udmurtia, covering the vineyard for the winter is a mandatory measure for preserving a healthy, fruit-bearing plant.

There are several methods for reliably covering a vineyard.
Some gardeners successfully practice hilling grapevines for the winter with soil about 10-15 cm high (up to 25 cm). In this case, as a fastening, a bunch of vines is pinned with a metal bracket.
When covering grapes for the winter, there is also a method of burying the vine in the soil to approximately the same depth (10 cm) as during hilling. The ground, covered with a thick layer of snow on top, perfectly retains heat and the grapes “survive” the winter without damage.
Other gardeners, having tied the vine, wrap it in several layers of burlap and insulate it on top with plastic film or agrofibre. In this form, the shrub is left to overwinter under snow cover. This method has also proven to be a reliable way to preserve vines.

A more complex and labor-intensive way to prepare a plant for the winter is to construct shelters from boards, roofing felt, film and other available materials. Such complex structures are made for vineyards growing in lowlands, where during thaws a lot of moisture will accumulate and there is a risk of buds dampening off. In such shelters, the bush remains dry, subject to periodic ventilation (during thaws). The advantage of the method is the fact that after the snow melts, the plant immediately begins to adapt to climatic conditions, without waiting until it is freed from the soil layer. The launched “mechanism” activates faster growth and development of the grape bush.

The vineyard should be opened in the spring no earlier than April-May. At the same time, you need to additionally cover the bushes with film in case of threat of return frosts. Such “unexpected” frosts in Udmurtia occur until the first half of June.
When covering grapes with soil, it is important to avoid rotting of the buds (eyes) on the shoots of the bush. This is possible in conditions where the soil is too wet after the snow melts.
When opening grapes, it is advisable to treat the above-ground part of the bush with a 3-5% solution of copper or iron sulfate. This treatment will prevent the appearance of fungus and delay bud break.

Pruning and shaping a grape bush in Udmurtia

The task of pruning young shrubs is to form powerful, durable and highly productive bushes. When pruning the first years, the skeleton of the bush and its sleeves are formed. Then only the given shape of the bush crown is maintained.

In the conditions of the central zone of the country, pruning is carried out in two stages: the main one - in the autumn, before covering the bushes, and the sanitary one - in the spring, after they open. In spring, frozen, damaged shoots are removed.

Grapes that need reliable winter shelter are grown in a standardless multi-armed (up to 6-7) form, with short pruning of the vine, the features of which are outlined below.

In the first year of planting, a seedling is grown from one bud, forming one vine. All other buds are pinched. As the vine grows, it is pruned into 10-12 buds, removing side shoots. In the fall, the vine is also pruned into 10-12 buds, and in this form the two-year-old seedling tolerates frost well in a shelter.
If you leave a long unpruned vine for the winter, in addition to the inconvenience of covering it, it is often damaged by frost and is pruned anyway in the spring. Autumn pruning helps reduce the unnecessary load of extra shoots on the root of the bush. In addition, cuttings can be prepared from shoots pruned in autumn for subsequent propagation of the grape variety.
An overwintered two-year-old seedling thus has one formed woody vine, ready for fruiting. On the vine during the period of active growth of green mass, you need to leave only one young shoot with inflorescences and two lower ones growing from the head of the bush. The remaining green shoots should be cut out. These shoots will become branches of the bush next year.
In the fall, two vines need to be pruned again into 10-12 buds, followed by shelter for the winter. This results in a three-year-old seedling with two vines ready for fruiting.
Similarly, next year it is necessary to again increase the number (by 1-2) of fruit-bearing vines of the bush. This procedure for forming a bush is carried out over a period of 5-6 years.
Such pruning and standardless formation of a multi-armed grape bush is the most acceptable technology for the cold northern regions. Otherwise, it is almost impossible to lay a lignified thick trunk of large-formed grapes on the ground for winter shelter. At the same time, the bush is easily broken or damaged.
Experienced gardeners in Udmurtia recommend pruning and covering bushes of even unsheltered winter-hardy grape varieties for the winter. Trimmed shoots quickly produce new growth, without having to risk exposing the plants to the harsh Udmurt frosts and winds.

After pruning, the sleeves need to be tied along the row, obliquely, and the annual shortened shoots horizontally. In this case, the shoots are distributed on the trellis so that its entire plane is occupied as much as possible.

Fertilizing grapes in Udmurtia

In the spring, in the first year after planting, nitrogen fertilizers are applied to stimulate the growth and development of the shrub. About 20 grams are taken per bush. nitrogen-containing preparations: ammonium nitrate, ammonium sulfate or urea. Fertilizing is combined with watering the bushes. Do not overdo it with nitrogen fertilizers, otherwise the opposite effect is possible.
The next year (the second year after planting), the grapes respond well to complex nitrogen-containing fertilizers: nitrophos, nitrophoska, ammophos or nitroammophos. Feeding is carried out several times, in the first half of summer. You can replace such complexes with organic fertilizers (for example, liquid mullein, manure, peat, compost, etc.).

Before and after the flowering period of grapes, complex phosphorus fertilizers (for example, superphosphate) are applied.
Foliar fertilizing carried out in the summer with any water-soluble fertilizer (for example, mortar or boric acid solution) is also effective. Boric acid prevents the ovaries from shedding, so it is carried out before flowering and during the growth of berries.
In autumn, the harvest field, the last fertilizing is carried out in the form of superphosphate, wood ash and potassium chloride.
The application of fertilizers allows you to obtain large yields of berries and stimulate high-quality ripening of the vine.

Watering grapes in Udmurtia

Watering the grapes should be done as needed and taking into account natural precipitation.
Water the bush abundantly, preferably in the evening. In the second half of summer, watering should be reduced so that the growth of the bush does not drag on until early autumn frosts.
During the period of active flowering and before harvesting the grapes, watering is stopped so that the perennial flowers do not fall off and the ripe berries do not crack.
It is only necessary to water young vines for the first 2 years and water-recharging watering in the fall, common to all varieties. Stop watering 7–10 days before the expected flowering, as excess moisture causes color shedding and delays the ripening of the crop.
Do not use sprinkling, otherwise you will provoke diseases. Arrange drainage channels and place irrigation pipes on the side of the row no closer than 30–50 cm to the base of the bush. Grapes do not like wet leaves and wet soil. If possible, arrange a canopy over the grape bushes.

Grapes: spring work in Udmurtia

When spring begins, all gardening chores begin. Firstly, in the second half of spring, young seedlings are planted. Secondly, work continues with overwintered shrubs: the tree trunk is freed from mulch, the soil is dug up, cutting off a small part of the old roots. This should not frighten the gardener, since the remaining roots begin to branch and regenerate, thus rejuvenating the entire root system of the grape bush. This “simple” technique improves fruiting and plant development. After digging, the soil is loosened with a rake.

Grapes: autumn work in Udmurtia

In the fall, before preparing the shrub for wintering, the soil near the tree trunk is again dug up shallowly for better moisture retention. During this period, the main pruning of the grapes, pinching of green shoots, and pinching are carried out. Before the onset of frost, shrubs are carefully covered.

Thus, by following basic agricultural practices, you can grow any suitable grape variety in Udmurtia, enjoying the taste and aroma of your own fresh berries. Fortunately, the choice of varieties for the northern regions is quite large and every gardener can choose grapes to suit their taste.

Growing various varieties of grapes in Siberian conditions: features for beginners

If you plant a heat-loving variety in Siberia, it will be stunted, sick, have poor wood growth, and will not ripen well, even though in summer the temperature in Siberian latitudes is not much different from the Krasnodar Territory.

Western Siberia is characterized by a highly continental climate, while in Eastern Siberia the relief of the territory has a great influence on the climate. Winter here lasts long and summer is short.

Fruit grape varieties

However, early and some mid-season grape varieties are capable of providing Siberian gardeners with a harvest, provided that various protection methods are used.

Delight

Table grapes of early ripening. Its berries are ovoid in shape, they are large, light, pink or reddish in color, with fleshy pulp and thin skin. They have a harmonious and pleasant taste. Brushes weighing up to 830 g. The variety is quite frost-resistant - down to –25 ° C, and resistant to diseases.

Tukay

The table variety of grapes is distinguished by its vigorous-growing cylindrical-conical trusses, reaching a weight of 800 g. The berries are round, white, and have a seed. The variety has poor disease resistance. But the frost resistance is the same as that of Delight.

Beauty of the North

This is a hybrid, its parent varieties are Zarya Severa and Taifi pink. The clusters ripen early, weigh up to 300 g, and are conical or branched. The berries are oval-shaped, with a white-pink tint. The variety has good resistance to gray rot. Frost resistance is excellent - down to –28 °C.

Mystery

An early variety with a ripeness period of 110 days (ripens two weeks earlier in a greenhouse). Riddle is recognized as the best variety for growing in the harsh conditions of Siberia. And for good reason: the weight of one brush is about 900 g (sometimes 1.7 kg), frost resistance is high - up to –25 °C. The berries of the Riddle are medium in size and have a dark blue skin with juicy pulp.

Photo gallery: grape varieties for Siberia

In addition, the following grape varieties are considered promising for cultivation in Siberia:

Elegant super early;
Harold;
New gift to Zaporozhye;
Codrianka;
Beauty of Nikopol;
Amethyst Novocherkassk;
Pink Timur;
Galahad.

When choosing one of the proposed varieties, there is a possibility that the grapevine grown in the shortened Siberian summer will have time to ripen and prepare for the upcoming winter.

Maiden grapes

Maiden grape is a woody vine with beautiful foliage and blue-black fruits. This grape variety is quite winter-hardy. However, it is not because of the berries that people strive to have these grapes on their property, since they are not edible. The need to plant virgin grapes arises when the gardener needs to disguise unsightly buildings and objects.

Using it you can decorate a gazebo, balcony, or open veranda. The plant creates shade and serves as additional protection from bad weather - rain and gusty winds. In autumn, the foliage of the maiden grapes turns red and orange, pleasing the eye and uplifting the mood. In addition, this species is praised for its rapid establishment after planting.

There are varieties of virgin grapes:

virginiana (five-leafed) - the leaves of this variety resemble chestnut leaves, the vine grows up to 15 m in height;
ivy - grown horizontally (on the ground) and vertically.

The Virginia variety is found in the wild in North America. Excellent frost resistance allows it to be cultivated even on lands located in Western Siberia. The Don Juan variety, which grows to a height of 20 meters, is prized here.

Virginia grapes are planted on the site due to the need to camouflage real estate objects

Cold-resistant varieties grown in Siberia are not picky in their care (minimum watering, fertilizing, treatments), but they cannot do without reliable shelter for the winter. Grapes are easier to grow in this region than some other crops. And the volume of berries can be much greater than any traditional berry bush produces.

How to plant

The method of planting - in a trench or a separate hole, depends on the characteristics of the soil on the site. On loamy and sandy loam soils, planting holes are mainly prepared. In sandstones, plants are planted in a trench.

The width of the hole is at least 1 m, the depth is up to 1.5 m. Depending on the spreading nature of the bushes and the selected variety, the interval for planting seedlings is selected - 2 or 3 meters between plants in the same row.

Seating by stepsons

Having a vineyard on the plot, you always have to thin it out in the summer, pinching it - removing fresh shoots that thicken the bush. Strong shoots will become worthy planting material. After cutting the shoot, it is necessary to free it from excess foliage; to do this, all the lower leaves are removed. No more than 3 of the youngest leaves should remain on the cuttings.

The cuttings are placed in water in which “Kornevin” or “Heteroauxin” is dissolved - root growth stimulants. Cuttings that have taken root:

sink into shallow holes;
sprinkled with earth;
excess leaves are removed from them, 1 young and 1 rudimentary are left;
the plant is covered with a transparent plastic jar, cut off from a bottle.

This way the plant will have time to take root and take root.

What temperature is needed to grow grapes?

Siberia has many advantages compared to Europe:

high light intensity,
transparency of the atmosphere (dry, clean),
length of daylight (1–2 hours more than in the south).

Amount of heat for grapes

In the Novosibirsk region, the frost-free period (above 0 °C) lasts approximately from April 15 to October 20 (long-term average data) - 187 days.

The period with temperatures above 10 °C (biological zero for grapes) is approximately 122 days (from May 15 to September 15).

Sum of temperatures above 10 °C in Berdsk:

2400 °C – 30% of years, i.e. approximately 3 years out of 10;
2200 °C – 30% of years;
in other years – 1800–2100 °C.

The temperature is considered the daily average - the highest daytime readings are added to the lowest nighttime readings and divided by 2.

This allows you to understand whether a variety is promising in a particular area. Weather forecast data is not always correct, since it is different in different locations and depends on the microclimate of the area. There is even a difference whether the site is on a mountain or under a mountain.

IMPORTANT If you buy a southern variety with a sum of temperatures exceeding 3000 °C, you cannot count on the vine ripening even in a greenhouse.

Soil temperature

Soil temperature at a depth of 20 cm:

May (up to 10 °C)
June (11–20 °C)
July (17–22 °C)
August (16–19 °C)
September (11–13 °C)

Temperatures below 0 °C – from October 20 to April 15.

IMPORTANT In soil under snow 25–30 cm high, grape roots are not damaged even at -30…-40 °C.

How to plant grapes

If you want grape seedlings to develop well and grow healthy, then before planting you need to create a supply of nutrients in the soil for them. Planting holes must be at least 80 x 80 cm in size and the same depth. They are prepared two months before planting.

The top fertile layer removed from the pit, removed to a depth of 30 cm, is mixed with wood ash and manure, taken in 2 buckets each, as well as with 0.5 kg of superphosphate. If the soil in the pit is clayey below 30 cm, then it is diluted with sand. The finished hole is half filled with the prepared soil mixture and left to shrink.

To grow excellent grapes, planting and care must be correct from the first steps. Therefore, do not skimp on the size of the pits and the nutrient mixture. Start planting immediately after the seedlings are purchased so that the roots do not dry out.

Region specifics

The climate of the Urals varies from north to south from subarctic to continental. This means that winters throughout the region are very cold with high snow cover. The temperature often drops to – 35-400. Summers are quite cold, characterized by large amounts of precipitation and significant temperature changes. Low mountains do not prevent the penetration of arctic air, so even at the height of summer, sharp frosts are possible.

Fertilizers applied in the fall before covering the grapes

Fertilizing begins immediately after harvest. While the foliage has not fallen off, it can be sprayed with a magnesium solution to restore magnesium reserves. As a rule, only potassium monophosphate is added to the soil in the fall. The application of nitrogen and other microelements is postponed until spring. Many beginners make a big mistake when caring for grapes - they are guided by the principle “The more fertilizers, the better.” This is absolutely false; excess microelements can be harmful. For example, excess phosphorus leads to a slowdown in vegetation. In this case, chlorosis can be noticed on the leaves - the veins become lighter than the rest. Therefore, it is important to follow the dosages specified by the manufacturer. An excess of fertilizers is treated by sowing green manures, which carry them in large quantities.

When deciding what to feed the grapes before sheltering for the winter, pay attention to organic fertilizers, which are very popular among winegrowers - for example, compost and manure. There are three ways to deposit:

• Dry; • Dissolved; • Seal into the pit.

In the first case, the humus is scattered dry into the root ring, then the earth is dug up. Nutrients will become available to the grapes after 1 - 2 seasons. The second method is to soak fertilizers in a bucket for a day, after which they are evenly poured around the bush. It is advisable to water the grapes generously after this. Embedding in a hole is a method in which nutrients are delivered closer to the roots. A hole up to 60 cm deep is dug at about a meter from the trunk. A liter of fertilizer is poured into it, and then buried. If possible, make 4 such patches on different sides of the bush. Since microelements are transferred unevenly into a form accessible to the root system, the supply of food lasts for 3 to 4 years. The same method can be used for chemical fertilizers.

It is recommended to apply wood ash under the bush for the winter. It contains large amounts of phosphorus, potassium and other elements. The application rate for one plant is a half-liter jar; the ash is evenly scattered over a meter in diameter from the trunk. If you add more, you can do harm instead of benefit. The soil becomes alkalized, making many microelements inaccessible to the root system. Immediately after applying fertilizer in the fall, before sheltering for the winter, carry out abundant water-recharging watering. Water consumption is about 50 liters per bush.

Varieties suitable for cultivation in Udmurtia

Fruitful cultivation of grapes in short summers and long frosty winters is possible by planting the following varieties:

The ripening period for the Aleshenkin variety is 118 days. It bears fruit with large berries up to 4.5 g. It stands out for its excellent ripening of the vine. The crop ripens even under unfavorable conditions.
The Pamyati Dombkowska variety ripens within 115 days. Fruits with black berries. Suitable for growing in risky farming areas.
Russian Corinka ripens in 115 days. It bears fruit with small golden-yellow berries weighing up to 2 g. It tolerates frosts down to -26 °C.
Tukay grapes bear fruit with yellow berries weighing up to 4 g, which are not prone to peas. Frost resistance of the variety down to -25 °C.

Kamila, Elf, Russian Early, Kodryanka, Taiga, Augustine, Bashkir Emerald, Kishmish and many other varieties with a short ripening period and excellent winter hardiness are also being grown by winegrowers in Udmurtia. In greenhouses they use the varieties Queen of Vineyards, Kesha 1, Victoria, Prometheus, Arcadia and others.

Greenhouse grapes

In some regions of our country, growing grapes is impossible due to harsh climatic conditions. Juicy berries in an open area simply do not have time to ripen before the onset of the first cold weather, so their cultivation loses all meaning. But restless amateur gardeners found a way out by placing the grapes in a greenhouse. Early specimens are best suited for growing indoors: “Queen of Vineyards”, “Kesha-1”, “Arcadia”, “Victoria”, “Prometheus”.

For greenhouses, choose grapes with a loose cluster - dense bunches often suffer from fungus due to insufficient ventilation.

Growing grapes in a greenhouse follows the same principle as in open ground, although certain subtleties still exist.

The best time for planting is the end of February.
Seedlings are planted 50 centimeters from the walls of the greenhouse.
The distance between rows should be about a meter.
At the time of planting, the temperature in the greenhouse should be about 10°C, and by the time the leaves bloom - 24°C.
It is advisable to provide forced ventilation in the greenhouse - air circulation will protect the plants from fungus and mold.
When watering, do not allow the soil to become waterlogged. Otherwise, the berries will crack.
Pollination is done manually by tapping or shaking the stems.

To get a cluster with large berries, it is worth thinning it out when the grapes are the size of a pea. To do this, scissors are used to first cut off the berries inside the bunch, and then the smallest ones.

Grape varieties

The main task for the gardener at the initial stage is to choose a plant variety adapted to local conditions. In order not to make a mistake with your choice, you need to study everything about grapes. Care, pruning, planting and propagation should be carried out taking into account agrotechnical features. For northern regions, you should choose early-ripening and frost-resistant varieties. Among the most common varieties are Isabella, Madeleine Angevin, Nina.

Complexly resistant varieties do not require scrupulous care and have good survival rate. Such varieties not only tolerate sub-zero temperatures well, but can also resist fungal infections. The best options for a novice gardener in terms of hardiness and taste are the varieties Vostorg, Lydia, Moldova, and Crystal.

Another important factor to consider when choosing a plant is vigor. Beginner gardeners are better off choosing low-growing or medium-growing varieties. Such varieties will not cause much difficulty during planting and care. Among the most common are the varieties Timur, Novinka, Jubilee of Moldova.

When choosing the Alpha grape variety, planting and care will not be much different from all the others. It is intended for cultivation in northern regions. It is planted from the end of March to the end of June. They are cared for similarly to other species, but are protected from freezing for the winter.

The most common grape varieties

Some features of cultivation in different regions of Russia

We always associate sweet and juicy grapes with the sunny, warm south, although they can grow in different latitudes.

Despite the difficult climatic conditions, growing grapes in the middle zone, in Chuvashia, Nizhny Novgorod, Vologda, Kirov, Leningrad and Yaroslavl regions is quite possible. Summer in these parts is short, cool and rainy. Therefore, it is worth choosing grapes with a short ripening period, from 85 to 125 days, which will produce a harvest before the first autumn frosts. The most productive are “Ilya Muromets”, “Rusven”, “Lucille”, “Firstborn of Kuibyshev”, “Firstborn of Saratov”, “Cosmonaut”. “Augustine” is in particular demand - a super early frost-resistant variety with large conical clusters that can accumulate sugar even in rainy weather.
Oddly enough, grapes also grow in the Trans-Urals - a region with a sharply continental climate, very cold, down to -46°C, in winter, short summers and sharp temperature fluctuations in spring and autumn. We are talking only about early, frost-resistant grape varieties: “Aleshenkin”, “Pamyat Golikova”, “Li-4”, “Purple Early”. The Amur variety stands out for its particular frost resistance, unpretentiousness, resistance to diseases and ease of care. The main thing is to properly insulate the plant to prevent the roots from freezing. The advantages of regional conditions include high snow cover, which saves the bushes in winter, and the absence of pests.
The climate of Udmurtia is characterized by hot summers and cold, snowy winters. It is advisable to plant grapes at the end of May or in the summer, for which the following specimens are suitable: “Agat Donskoy”, “Volzhsky”, “Vostorg”, “Dawn of the North”, “Muromets”. The main thing is not to make mistakes when protecting crops during the period of return frosts.
Even in Bashkiria, with its harsh winters down to -50°C and rather hot but short summers, it is possible to grow frost-resistant grape varieties with a short ripening period. The most famous is “Isabella,” which can overwinter without any shelter and is distinguished by its large yield of unusually aromatic berries.
Grapes are also grown in Tatarstan, and harsh winters are not an obstacle for the heat-loving crop. The secrets of the harvest lie in the choice of frost-resistant varieties with early ripening, as well as in the peculiarities of care: when planting, you need to deepen the plant to a depth of at least 60 centimeters, and in winter - carefully cover it to protect it from freezing.

Grapes are a valuable crop that is famous not only for its taste, but also for its benefits. The plant requires constant close attention from gardeners, careful care and knowledge of the intricacies of planting and growing technology. Uncontrollably growing bushes grow greatly, interfering with each other, begin to get sick and lose productivity.

Today, not only residents of southern latitudes can enjoy delicious berries. Breeders are working every day to create new frost-resistant varieties with early ripening, which can be grown in the northern regions of our country with low temperatures, and in open ground.

When can you open the vine?

Grapes can be grown outdoors at an average daily temperature above 0 °C. Then gardeners remove the shelter for the winter. If weather forecasters promise early frosts, then it is better to wait until there is a stable thaw.

One way to protect an exposed bush from frost is with a smoke pile. It consists of:

straw, dry leaves, shavings;
tops, fuel oil for smoking;
dry earth.

The size of one heap is approximately 1x1.5 m. It needs to be set on fire from below, it will provide protection for 100 square meters. m. Large vineyards are fumigated from several sides. If it is not possible to make a smoke pile, water is sprayed on the vine: it sets, protecting it from low temperatures. They can be re-covered in mild frosts in one layer of material.

By delaying wintering, you cause serious harm to the grapes. Frozen shoots can become infected with mildew or even die. Even winter-hardy varieties need protection from the cold. And uncovered crops are planted only in areas where snow falls with the first frost, otherwise they will die.

Culture propagation

To propagate grapes, gardeners use one of the following methods:

grafting on frost-resistant varieties;
cuttings;
layering.

Let's take a closer look at each of the methods.

Cuttings

During autumn pruning and preparation of grapes for wintering, the strongest cuttings are left for further propagation. Before placing the cuttings for winter storage, they are treated with iron sulfate. This will protect the cuttings from mold and mildew. From early spring, cuttings are germinated at room temperature and by mid-June they become full-fledged seedlings.

Graft

Propagating the desired grape varieties by grafting is quite simple. To do this, cut out the shield from the scion and make a cut of exactly the same size on the rootstock. The resulting eye is pressed tightly to the rootstock, lubricated with garden varnish and carefully fixed with a plastic bandage.

Suitable varieties

Before planting grapes in the Urals, a suitable variety is selected. It must be adapted to a specific area with certain climatic conditions, have winter hardiness, that is, tolerate low air temperatures for a long time. Some novice gardeners and gardeners confuse the concepts of frost resistance and winter hardiness. These are different properties of plants. They differ in that frost-resistant crops can withstand sub-zero temperatures for a short time, while winter-hardy crops are able to survive during long frosty winters.

In memory of Shatilov

An early variety of white grapes. Able to survive northern frosts down to – 30 °C. Medium-sized bushes, self-pollinating flowers. The bunches weigh on average 700-1500 g.

The berries are straw-colored, large, oval-shaped.

Dombkowska

High-yielding early ripening technical variety. Cold-resistant, tolerates frosts down to – 28 °C with timely mulching and covering. Bunches weighing up to 0.5 kg ripen in 90 days. The fruits are black, thin-skinned, sweet, seedless.

Aleshenkin, or Alyosha

An early table variety, ripening in 115 days. It has high productivity. One bunch weighs on average 1 kilogram. The berries are emerald-yellowish, oval in color, weighing about 5 grams. The taste is nothing special. The subtleties of aroma are most clearly revealed when creating wine. It is frost-resistant and can withstand temperatures down to -27 °C. Requires a rootstock and shelter when grown in open areas. Resistant to diseases that affect other grape varieties. It produces 8-9 kg of berries per season.

Amur varieties

Special varieties that began to be bred from wild grapes found in Primorye and Khabarovsk Territory. They are not demanding to care for and do not need to be covered in winter. Withstands frosts down to -30. The vine grows up to 30 m, has flowers of both sexes, which is a plus for getting a large harvest. Amur varieties bloom in the summer (June) and produce fruit in September.

Amur varieties are planted for home winemaking, jam, and marmalade. Bushes with carved leaves look very beautiful on fences, so Amur grapes are also used for decorative purposes. Thanks to the efforts of breeders, step by step, a culture resistant to the Ural weather was developed from small game.

Marinovsky

Frost-resistant variety. Easily survives severe Ural frosts. When frozen, it quickly recovers. Medium sized clusters. The berries are small, elongated, purple in color with durable skin and juicy pulp.

Preventive treatment and foliar feeding of grapes

Obtaining a high-quality and stable grape harvest is impossible without providing the plant with the proper amount of nutrients. Growing on a trellis gives the gardener the opportunity to use foliar feeding of grapes, an effective source of additional nutrition and minerals.

Grape bushes experience the greatest need for such fertilizing:

before and after flowering;
during the period when the coloring of the berries begins;
a few days before harvest.

To feed grape seedlings and adult bushes, use a solution containing 5% superphosphate, 0.5% ammonium sulfate and 1% potassium salts. When the berries begin to ripen, the vine no longer needs nitrogen, but microelements, such as zinc and boron, can be added to the fertilizing composition.

After flowering, the bushes are treated with a 1% solution of boric acid in combination with a fungicide that prevents the development of downy mildew, a disease that occurs in conditions of high humidity and has a detrimental effect not only on the future harvest, but also on the entire grape plant. The final foliar feeding of grapes can be carried out using an infusion of wood ash. The application of such fertilizing, as well as spraying the bushes with fungicides and insecticides, is carried out in the afternoon, when the temperature drops, the sun cannot burn the leaves and inflorescences, or in cloudy weather. The longer the drops of the product remain on the greenery, the greater the effect the procedure has.

Requirements for grapes

Bush dimensions

Tall and dense vines prevent grapes from ripening. To achieve good harvests, it is pruned throughout the summer and half of the tassels are torn off.

The short summer sets its own demands on the variety. In Udmurtia, productive cultivation of only early and ultra-early grapes is possible, the growing season of which does not exceed 130 days. Only in this case does the plant have time to prepare for winter and, under a thick layer of snow, calmly endure severe frosts.

The cold, snowy winters of Udmurtia also contribute to gardening. Winter temperatures here often drop to -30 °C. In such conditions, growing grapes will be fruitful only if you use varieties with increased winter hardiness and cover the plants.

Return frosts are no less dangerous for grapes.

Growing conditions and frost resistance

Udmurtia's short but hot summers and snowy winters are sufficient conditions for obtaining high-quality grape harvests from open ground. No more than 5 calendar months should pass from the day the vine awakens until the harvest is harvested. Winter reigns in Udmurtia for 7 months a year. From November, the vine is protected by a thick blanket of snow.

It is possible to reliably prepare a vineyard for wintering if the growing season of the variety lasts no more than 130 days. Early ripening varieties that are resistant to returning frosts in the spring can be considered the best choice.

What to consider when planting

Difficult climatic conditions have become the starting point from which local winegrowers start when planting and caring for grapes in Udmurtia.

Harsh winters and hot summers allow Udmurt winegrowers to cultivate those varieties whose growing season does not exceed 150 days. It is during this period that the region experiences warm weather, which allows the harvest to ripen. Snow begins to cover the ground already in November, it protects the vine from frost.

In Udmurtia, grapes can be planted not only in fertile areas, but also in places where slightly salty soil or rocky soil predominates. Plants should not be placed in swampy areas or highly saline soil.

The landing site should be well lit by sunlight and protected from winds and drafts. It is not recommended to place the plant in the shade: the berries will not ripen well, and when the first frosts appear, they will freeze even before they ripen.

Artificial climate improvement is welcome. For example, planting plants near fences and walls of buildings or near specially constructed walls made of brick or slate. This material quickly heats up in the sun and creates additional heating for the shrubs.

An excellent seating option would be the southwest side with slopes. The snow here will melt faster, and the slopes will act as a natural protection from the wind.

How to plant

Planting young grape bushes must be done correctly. This will be the key to a successful harvest and further long-term cultivation. Basic requirements for landing:

Planting is carried out at the end of May - until mid-June. It is not recommended to do this in the fall.
Planted in separate holes or in planting trenches. In the latter - if the soil is sandy, in the first - if it is loamy.
The distance between bushes is 2-3 m, between rows – 2.5 m.
The dimensions of the planting hole, prepared in advance, are 1 by 1 m.
The hole must have drainage: crushed stone, broken brick or broken gravel.
The drainage should be sprinkled with the top soil layer, which contains many useful substances. You can and should add ash, superphosphate, peat, and potassium salt.
Remove the roots on the upper nodes of the seedlings, shorten the lower ones by 20 cm. The root system is immersed in a solution of mullein and clay for 2-3 days.

Preparing the landing site

Grapes can be planted in spring (from mid-April), summer (June) or autumn (from early October until the first frost). A month and a half before this, some preparatory work should be done.

First of all, you need to choose a suitable place - a sunny area on the south side along a wall or fence is best. This way, during the day, the plant will receive enough sunlight, and at night, the surface heated during the day will save it from the cold.
Any soil is suitable for growing grapes, with the exception of salt marshes. A place with close groundwater is also unacceptable for cultivation.
You will have to dig a fairly large hole, 1 meter in diameter and 70 centimeters deep.
If the soil is dense, add a drainage layer of broken bricks or tiles. It is recommended to add river sand to peat soil.
The soil must be fed by mixing it with compost, wood ash or sufficiently rotted manure.
It is necessary to complete the preparation of the planting pit with a fertile layer.
It is best to place the trellises from south to north so that the grapes are illuminated by the sun all day. Pull the first wire at a height of 50 centimeters from the ground, and each subsequent wire - after 40 centimeters.

When planting grapes in sandy soil, you should remember that at the bottom of the hole you should build a so-called “castle” made of clay, similar to a saucer. It will help retain moisture and nutrients

What to consider when planting

Difficult climatic conditions have become the starting point from which local winegrowers start when planting and caring for grapes in Udmurtia.

An excellent seating option would be the southwest side with slopes. The snow here will melt faster, and the slopes will act as a natural protection from the wind.

How to plant

Planting young grape bushes must be done correctly. This will be the key to a successful harvest and further long-term cultivation. Basic requirements for landing:

Planting is carried out at the end of May - until mid-June. It is not recommended to do this in the fall.
Planted in separate holes or in planting trenches. In the latter - if the soil is sandy, in the first - if it is loamy.
The distance between bushes is 2-3 m, between rows – 2.5 m.
The dimensions of the planting hole, prepared in advance, are 1 by 1 m.
The hole must have drainage: crushed stone, broken brick or broken gravel.
The drainage should be sprinkled with the top soil layer, which contains many useful substances. You can and should add ash, superphosphate, peat, and potassium salt.
Remove the roots on the upper nodes of the seedlings, shorten the lower ones by 20 cm. The root system is immersed in a solution of mullein and clay for 2-3 days.

Formation of a grape bush

The choice of the shape of a grape bush, which determines its appearance, structure and quantity of both new shoots and green mass, depends on the climatic conditions of growth, soil fertility and characteristics of the plant variety.

The result of proper formation of a grape bush is:

regular and, in accordance with varietal characteristics, abundant harvest;
qualitatively ripening growth at the end of the growing season;
a plant that can withstand winter without problems and does not suffer from common grape diseases and pests in the area;
providing simple care for grape seedlings;
facilitating vine pruning and watering, rejuvenation and adjustment of existing load.

Read also: Planting garlic in spring in open ground in the Leningrad region

When wondering how to grow grapes, some novice gardeners act on a whim, without paying due attention to pruning the bush. However, there are many established options and types of forms that allow you to get good results in a wide variety of farming conditions. With the help of spring pruning, a grape bush is formed with or without a trunk of varying heights.

Most often, winegrowers give rooting grape seedlings:

It is the various variants and combinations of the fan that have received the greatest recognition from winegrowers in Russia, since such a grape bush is easy to care for.

The bush can be adjusted if desired, and when a trellis is installed, the plants receive enough air, light and nutrition, produce consistently high yields, and can be removed and covered for the winter. The main part of the work on the formation of a grape bush is carried out in the spring; in the summer, excess and excessively growing shoots and stepsons are broken off, gartering and other procedures are carried out aimed at maintaining fruiting and the intended shape of the plant.

Formation of the vine

For proper development of the grapevine in the first three years, you should:

constantly loosen the soil and destroy weeds;
carry out spring catarrhing annually: to do this, dig up the stem to the first branch to a depth of 20 cm, remove the thin roots and fill it up again;
spray plants with 3% Bordeaux mixture before active growth begins to prevent diseases;
switch to an enhanced watering regime during the growing season.

They form the vine as it grows and spreads. Three-centimeter young shoots are broken off to prevent neglect. The optimal ratio of fruitful and fruitless shoots is regulated by plucking them when they reach a length of 15 centimeters.

Growing and caring for the vine is not too difficult, but it helps to achieve a good harvest.

Trellis for grapes

Since grapes are a vigorous vine, in most cases reliable and comfortable support is needed to grow them and facilitate care. The presence of such structures is especially important when the crown has no standard form and when growing vigorous varieties, as well as when using grapes for landscaping canopies, gazebos and other buildings.

Walls, installed poles, stakes, and even trees growing next to the bushes can serve as support for the vine, but the best solution would be to install a special trellis for grapes.

In amateur gardening, two types of design are most common:

a vertical trellis, where the grape shoots are located in the same plane;
an inclined trellis on which the shoots are spaced into two planes at an angle to each other.

In both cases, reliable pillars serve as supports for the structure; rows of strong wire are stretched between them, which will have to withstand not only the weight of the shoots, but also the weight of the pouring brushes. A single-plane trellis for grapes is simpler to construct and much cheaper, but to obtain high yields from a bush, a two-plane version is more convenient, providing a large area for supporting fruit-bearing shoots and withstanding the serious weight of the vine.

To simplify the cultivation and care of grapes, row spacing is provided between the trellises, sufficient to remove the bushes and cover them during cold weather, as well as to provide the plantings with sufficient lighting, and the rows do not overlap each other. It is better if the trellis for grapes on the site is located from north to south. In this case, the height of the structure is selected depending on the growth of the winegrower, the characteristics of the variety and the selected bush shape.

Why do you need shelter?

Most grape varieties are heat-loving plants, and this applies even to those varieties that are considered frost-resistant, withstanding temperatures down to -25°C. With prolonged exposure to frost on the root system of these plants (-5°C or even lower), it will be on the verge of freezing, and if the outside temperature is kept within -20°C for two weeks, more than half of the buds or even the vine itself will suffer.

Did you know? According to experienced gardeners, in order to maintain 1 degree of soil temperature, it is enough to place 1.5–2 cm of snow on the bush. That is, a snowdrift 30–40 cm high will be enough for the plants to survive the winter calmly.

All of the given values are typical for many regions with a temperate climate, not to mention the harsh conditions of Siberia. Therefore, in order to prevent the death of grapes and provide themselves with a harvest in the next season, winegrowers cover the vine, thereby protecting not only the above-ground part, but also the rhizome from freezing.

Garden notes

At the request of @BTVTatyana, from the city of Cherepovets, I will write about my experience of growing grapes in a greenhouse and in a greenhouse.

After retiring, I decided to try to grow grapes in our conditions, which are not entirely suitable for them.

In the fall of 2011, I bought two seedlings in our garden store. The labels indicated the varieties Laura and Augustine. The place they chose, as it turned out, was completely unfortunate. Although our soil is more sandy and the water immediately leaves in the spring, in the fall of 2011 there were frosts on the black soil and the soil was very frozen. In the spring of 2012, there was water right where the grapes were planted. And we planted the bushes in large holes filled with nutritious soil, so that the heel was at a depth of 40 cm from the soil level. Every day I tried to scoop out the accumulated water, mentally saying goodbye to the grapes. But with the arrival of warm days, on the 2 buds left in the fall on each bush, I first noticed a fluff, and then a green cone of a future shoot.

The grapes began to grow, in the first year the shoots grew by about 1 - 1.5 meters. Of course, then I didn’t know how to form it and the bushes grew on their own (like currants). In the fall, purely intuitively, I left two shoots per bush and removed the rest. I didn’t treat it with anything, I covered it with span No. 60 in two layers and put pieces of slate on top (my husband made primitive boxes).

Surprisingly, the grapes overwintered well. We decided to transplant it to another place in the spring of 2013. By this time, I had already read a lot about the structure of the grape bush, learned about different formations, green operations, minting, etc.

We replanted it in the fall and also bought a seedling called Alyoshenkin.

This time the bushes were planted simply on a ridge and to a depth of 20-25 cm from the heel to the soil level. The holes were made measuring 40*40*40 cm. By the fall, I already had 4 sleeves on Laura and Augustine.

In the spring of 2014, all three bushes began to grow. My husband made a temporary 2-plane trellis, by this time two bushes had 4 sleeves (future fan formation). This is what they looked like in early September and even produced their first harvest.

In 2014, I became acquainted with the website of Puzenko Natalya Lariasovna, there are many experienced winegrowers from all over Russia and beyond. I sat on the forum for hours and studied the experiences of forum members. As a result, I ordered 6 seedlings from Natalya Lariasovna: Gala, Black Monarch, Tason, Beauty of Nikopol, Liepayas Dzintars and Kish-mish KM-342.

But just like tomatoes, you can never have too many grapes. I decided to try growing grapes from cuttings and ordered 8 varieties from Alexander Ivanovich Sopin (Moscow). The cuttings and seedlings arrived in good condition. I soaked them in water for a day and put them in the basement for storage, covering them with river sand. I covered only the root system of the seedlings.

In the winter of 2015, I also ordered cuttings of 5 varieties from Vadim Elyevich Tochilin (Belarus).

At the beginning of February, I took out cuttings and seedlings from the basement. I soaked the seedlings in water for a day and planted them in 5 and 7 liter containers, renewed the cuttings and soaked them in water for 2 days (I will write about propagating grapes by cuttings below). Then I set the cuttings to germinate in water and, according to Puzenko, “on a cabinet.”

The seedlings began to grow. And here I made another mistake, I blinded the lower kidneys. I decided that a pair of top ones would be enough for shaping. I didn’t think that the closer the sleeve is to the head of the bush, the easier it will be to bend it down for cover. When planting, I had to dig it deeper and plant it at an angle of 45 degrees.

Many people “twisted at my head” and laughed at my idea, my husband decided “no matter what the child amuses himself with,” but he helped dig the next holes, fill them with humus and, of course, helped with planting. In the spring, instead of a temporary structure, he made me a good 2-plane trellis for the first three bushes in the OG and I decided to start shaping. The time has just come, but as soon as I approach the bushes, everything flies out of my head and I don’t know which shoots to remove and which to leave.

I'm going to the forum again to read. I was advised to take photographs of the bushes to help with shaping. I did just that, Natalya Lariasovna and other forum members showed in my photographs where to cut. I took the laptop out into the garden, put it on a chair, and with trembling hands I trimmed the bushes.

The first two pictures show a view of one bush with two sleeves on each trellis. The third photo of the base of the bush, the beginning of 4 branches is clearly visible here.

And this is an already trimmed bush (two sleeves), the photo was taken a week after pruning.

In the meantime, new seedlings grew up and I encouraged my husband to start a greenhouse for grapes. He had no idea how far my passion for this culture had gone. But what to do, I had to build a greenhouse.

I planted 5 bushes from Natalia and 3 from Alexander Sopin.

To be continued…

It just won't let me upload photos anymore. What should I do?

left row: KM-342, Laura, Kodryanka, Aladdin. right row: Black Monarch, Tason, Gala and Beauty of Nikopol.

In the fall, I trimmed the vines, treated them with 4% JA and covered them for the winter. The winter was warm, but I thought that without snow the grapes would freeze, so I overdid it with the shelter and even threw PEP on top.

In the spring of 2016, another disappointment awaited me. The grapes withered so much that they had to be cut off almost completely. But I did not lose hope, and at the end of April, buds began to open on short cuttings of 4 bushes, and at the beginning of May, shoots from the ground from the head of the bush began to appear on the remaining bushes.

Once again I was convinced how tenacious the grapes turned out to be. He forgives a lot to an inexperienced winegrower.

By the beginning of September, the grapes had grown well and even produced small signaling tassels on those bushes where part of the vine with several buds remained.

To be continued…

In the fall, I thoroughly prepared to cover the grapes in the greenhouse and in the exhaust gas.

— I sewed synthetic blankets. Between two layers of span No. 60 I laid padding polyester No. 300 and stitched it manually with large stitches. The blankets turned out to be 4 meters long in the amount of 4 pieces.

Shelter:

- a layer of dry leaves about 20-25 cm thick;

— two layers of span No. 60;

- padding polyester blanket;

- span No. 60*2 (on frosty days - 35 - 40 degrees)

— The grapes were pruned to ripened wood. Ripening can be judged by the cut of the vine. The ripened cut should be bright green with a brown core; if the cut is smeared with iodine, the green cut becomes almost black. The vine turns straw or brown in color, becomes warm to the touch and crackles when bent.

— Treated with 4% FA.

— She bent the vines and pinned them to the ground.

— I did water-charging irrigation. One bush requires 80 liters of water. I timed the time it took to fill a 10-liter bucket, multiplied it by 8, and during this time I threw the hose under a bush.

— When stable subzero weather set in (down to -5 degrees), I covered the grapes, having previously placed cotton pads with Vishnevsky ointment (for mice) under the covers. I placed thermometers in each row under the shelter (we bought sensors this year).

— The shelter in the OG is as follows:

— Along the arcs there is a construction net (there is a lot of snow and without a net it can break the vines)

— Double span No. 60.

— Substrate for laminate-isolon 5 mm thick

— PEP (shelter must be dry)

I cover with the onset of cold weather, but I try before the snow, the ends of the shelters are open until frost and are not covered with a backing and PEP, only with span.

The grapes overwintered successfully and were pleased with the harvest the following year.

March 2, 2022 Continued

Today I will write how I germinate grape cuttings.

I take the cuttings out of the basement at the end of February. I update the sections, cut the long ones into 2 - 3 buds. The upper cut is 3-4 cm above the bud, the lower cut is 1.5 cm in diameter from the cutting, I check whether the buds are alive. Everything is fine - the cut is green and so are the buds. I soak it in water for 2 days so that it is well nourished.

— The cuttings were soaked for a little more than a day. I put it for rooting in two ways. I’ll show you again using the KM-342 as an example. 1 way on water. Nothing complicated. I furrowed the cuttings, lightly scratched the bark 1.5 - 2 cm long, 2-3 grooves each. I didn’t treat the cuttings with anything to stimulate the root system. Last year I powdered them with rootstock, apparently there was too much, a huge callus grew,

but there were no roots on such cuttings. In addition, there is no need to increase the temperature above 28 degrees in the heel area. I poured water into the jar to a height of 2 - 3 cm, placed the cuttings, put a plastic bag on top so that the buds did not dry out, and did not put anything at the bottom of the jar. I used to put foam rubber or cotton wool at the bottom of the jar, but then it was difficult to pull out the roots, many broke off.

I place the jar on a plate on the radiator, the temperature should be no more than 25 - 28 degrees in the area of the roots and 15 degrees in the area of the tops of the cuttings. I open the window slightly for micro ventilation.

Method 2 “on a cabinet” is the method of Natalya Lariasovna Puzenko. I take an old cotton towel, wet it, wring it out and fold it in half lengthwise. Previously, I laid out cuttings without soil. You can use coconut or sphagnum moss. Today I made it with Jiffy tablets, but I immediately removed the mesh. I lay out the cuttings after some distance, in the middle of the towel, cover with the other half and roll them up like a snail. I tie it, put it in a PET bag, put another bag on top and put everything on the cabinet. The temperature there is about 25 degrees, and you can forget about it for a couple of weeks. And check after two weeks, there should already be roots there. Let's see

This time I did not wax the upper part of the cuttings; the length above the bud of 3 - 4 cm is sufficient.

03.20.18. I planted 2 cuttings of KM-342 grapes with small roots. I liked to first plant it in a 0.5 liter glass, and when they take root well (the roots are visible on the walls of the glass and have mastered the volume), carefully transfer it into a 5 liter container. — This time I used “Strong” soil from FASCO, put a Jiffy tablet soaked in hot water under the heel, covered the roots with a second soaked tablet, and again the soil. I didn't water it. Now the main thing is not to flood them; I will water them through a tray.

The last photo shows how the roots have grown after three days. I like to plant cuttings with just such small roots.

I came across a good video of Vyacheslav Radzikovsky. Subscribed to his channel. And I saw the video in the topic of joint purchases of frigo.

03/11/2019 Temperature +1 cloudy

I missed the grape cuttings a little. Quite good roots have grown on Alyoshenkina. I had to urgently transplant the glasses into 0.5 liter glasses, although I should have immediately transferred them to 3-5 liter containers, but I didn’t have time to buy them.

Nowadays there is a lot of flower ovary on all cuttings, you have to carefully pluck them out.

Autumn pruning of vines depending on the age of the vineyard

For “dummies”, novice winegrowers who do not want to go into details, pruning grapes for the winter can be reduced to a simple scheme: cut off all the branches, leaving 2 - 3 buds. The length of the trunk, the thickest part with perennial wood, should correspond to the size of the trellis and be conveniently attached to it.

Annual

When preparing grapes of the first year of life for winter, when pruning, we remove all branches, leaving two buds. With proper care next year, a young vine will grow from these buds.

Two year old

If the vine is developing well, the branches are thick and healthy, we cut the inner ones into two buds, and do not touch the outer ones. Next year, a sleeve will be formed from them. If development is slow, the branches are thin, cut everything off, leaving two buds.

Mature vine

We cut out dry, thin branches completely, leaving no stump. We cut the rest into two or three buds. We adjust the length of the sleeve, that is, the main branch, if necessary.

neglected bush

Autumn is the time to tidy up grapes that have not been looked after for a long time. First of all, we determine approximately the age of the bush. We focus on the thickness of the largest branch with perennial wood. If its thickness approximately corresponds to the thumb, then it is about 3 years old. Those that are thinner are younger; the harvest will have to wait a couple of years. Those that are thicker are most likely already bearing fruit. Thick, about the size of a hand – old, more than 10 years old. Even a developed, perennial root system can feed no more than 4 vines at a time. Therefore, we choose which branches to leave. The oldest and youngest are removed first. On the remaining ones, cut off the side branches, leaving 2 buds. The length of the branches and sleeves of the bush is determined depending on the method of attachment to the support. For example, for an arch, you don’t have to shorten the vine, just direct it later.

Beginners often get confused with the types of pruning. In the description of grape varieties there are phrases: “short pruning”, “pruning for 8 buds” and the like. They refer to summer pruning during the formation of the fruit vine. When we prepare grapes for winter, pruning is always short, into two buds. The exception is the formation of a sleeve.

Decorative varieties, for example, girlish grapes, when pruned for the winter, are shortened slightly, leaving long branches. Only those that interfere are cut short. After pruning, be sure to treat the cuts with garden varnish.