Radonezh cherry - golden rules for proper care of a frost-resistant tree

It is not possible to plant a cherry orchard on small plots of land. At best, you can place 2-3 trees. Therefore, the gardener tries to choose a universal, productive and frost-resistant variety. After all, cherry is a tree that blooms earlier than others, which means that late spring frosts can destroy the inflorescences.

One of the best winter-hardy varieties is Radonezh - the result of the work of a team of breeders from the All-Russian Research Institute of Lupine. This is a relatively young variety, included in the State Register of the Russian Federation for the Central region in 2002. The characteristics of Radonezh cherries, planting, growing and caring for trees will be discussed in this article.

Description and characteristics of the variety

Radonezh is a tree-like form. Cherry is capable of forming root shoots, which can be used to propagate it. Thanks to this ability, it is more durable and this is important, because those bred on rootstocks can live and bear fruit for only about 25 years. And grown from root shoots takes almost twice as long. It blooms very early - even in the central regions in the first half of May. Therefore, the gardener’s choice most often occurs in favor of this variety. Especially in the more northern regions of the country. Below is a description of the tree and fruit.

The tree is partially self-fertile, produces high yields, and the fruits ripen approximately two months after flowering.

Tree

Cherries can grow up to 5 meters. Radonezh is a medium-sized tree. Reaches a maximum of 3 meters, if you do not prune in spring to form a standard. Main characteristics of the tree:

• Short trunk, round-oval in shape;
• The crown is of medium density, slightly raised;
• The branches are thick, the buds on them are relatively small;
• The leaves are dark green, glossy. The edges are slightly curved inward, jagged, without pubescence;
• Petioles are short, dense, of medium thickness;
• The flowers are medium in size, usually forming inflorescences of 6 flowers.

Botanists have classified about 150 species of cherries, but only about 10 of them are of industrial importance.

Fruit

At the end of June you can already harvest. Ripe cherries of this variety are sweet with a pleasant sourness. Weighing from 4 to 5 grams. The shape of the berries is round, the density of the pulp is medium, tender. The peduncle is long. Ripe and overripe cherries come off very easily. The pulp is dark red. The stone has a weight of about 6% of the cherry and is easily separated. The berries of this variety contain:

• P-active compounds (catechins, flavones, leukoanthocyanins);
• Anthocyanins (capillary-fastening elements. There are a lot of them in Radonezh, since the color of the pulp is an indicator of the content of these elements. The darker it is, the more of these compounds;
• Coumarins;
• Iron (1 to 3 mg).

Tasting rating of Radonezh cherries - 4.2 points.

Description of culture

Knowing the parameters of a tree will make it possible to correctly calculate the required number of seedlings for planting, taking into account the available area.

The height of an adult Radonezh cherry reaches 3 m - 3.5 m, so the tree is classified as medium-sized. The trunk of the cherry variety is short, the shoots are powerful. The crown of "Radonezhskaya" is of medium density, regular oval in shape and slightly raised.

The leaves of the cherry are wide, with jagged edges, and slightly folded. They are shaped like a boat and are located on a short petiole.

The buds are quite small. The vegetative bud of the Radonezh cherry is cone-shaped, and the generative bud is ovoid.

Important! Without additional pollinators, the yield of the variety is reduced by at least 60-70%!

The flowers of the variety are grouped into inflorescences of 5-7 medium-sized white flowers. The shape of each flower resembles a saucer, the petals are arranged freely. The stamens and pistil are long.

Cherry berries are round and dark red in color. The fruits of the Radonezh cherry are of high quality. Each cherry is elastic, with a long stalk, the stone is easily separated.

The pulp is tender, juicy, sweet and sour taste. The berries contain a high concentration of vitamin C (10 mg/100 g), sugar (10%) and dry matter (15%). The delicate taste of cherries made it possible to classify the Radonezhskaya variety as a dessert variety. The weight of one berry is 4-5 g.

Peculiarities

The Radonezh variety has the following features:

• Winter hardiness. Cherry blossoms are just in time when cold air masses can move from the Arctic, bringing with them late frosts. The variety can lose up to 30% of the inflorescences and thereby reduce the yield. But there will still be berries on the tree;
• Resistance to stone fruit diseases;
• Radonezh is a medium-ripening characterized by medium and high yields. This indicator depends on the agricultural activities carried out;
• Requires pollination ; the best pollinators for Radonezh are Vladimirskaya, Shchedraya, Taramis, Kharitonovka and Shalunya.

Due to the fact that ripe cherries are easily torn from the stalk, their transportability is average. Therefore, berries can only be transported over short distances.

Let's look at the features of Radonezh cherries in more detail below.

Winter hardiness

The Radonezh cherry variety has a high level of frost resistance. The trees tolerate well not only low winter temperatures, but also late spring frosts down to minus 5 degrees. According to reviews from gardeners who have this variety on their plots, such frost can destroy about 30% of the inflorescences.

Disease resistance

The trees are resistant to most stone fruit diseases. Including coccomycosis and moniliosis (caused by the fungus monilia. The second name is gray rot of stone fruits). But it is still advisable to treat with copper-containing preparations before the buds open.

A thick liquid may appear on the trunk or branches, which becomes glassy over time. This is the gum treatment of stone fruits. Occurs as a result of bacterial or sunburn or malnutrition.

Pollinators

Partially self-fertile variety. Self-pollinates on average by 30%. Therefore, it is advisable to plant another tree in the garden.
The most suitable cherry varieties in terms of timing and flowering period are Vladimirskaya and Lyubskaya. What to do if the cherry blossoms but does not bear fruit, read this article.

Ripening time and yield

The berries ripen in June. Decades depend on the regions where the variety grows. The average yield is about 50 c/ha, and the maximum is more than 70 c/ha. The berries are consumed fresh. Processed into jam, juices, wines, liqueurs. Young shoots are used to brew tea.

One of the most productive Lyubskaya cherries. In the Tambov region, a harvest of about 210 centners per hectare was harvested.

Transportability

The transportability of the berries of this variety is average. It is advisable to transport it over long distances in the phase of incomplete maturity. Since, having reached the state of ripeness, the cherry easily comes off the stalk, and without it it can bleed out juice much faster.

Resistance to diseases and weather conditions

The variety has natural immunity to fungal diseases, moniliosis, and coccomycosis. But this is not a guarantee that the plant will not get sick; for preventive purposes, plants must be treated annually with copper-containing preparations.

As for weather conditions, “Radonezh” is not only a winter-hardy variety, but is also able to withstand lower temperatures even during the flowering period, losing up to 30% of its flowers.

Growing

Cherry seedlings can be planted as annuals, unlike pear and apple trees.

A good seedling will definitely grow into a good tree. Therefore, it is better to buy planting material from trusted sellers or fruit nurseries located in the same climatic zone where the tree is supposed to be planted.

Standard planting material should have the following indicators:

• Developed root system, 30 to 40 cm long;
• The trunk must have at least 3 side shoots and an even central conductor;
• The desired trunk length is from 55 to 60 cm, and the thickness is from 1.5 to 2.5 cm.

It is not recommended to buy seedlings grown in regions with different soil and climatic conditions from the place where the garden is being planted.

The basic rules for growing Radonezh trees will be discussed below. This link will tell you whether it is possible to graft cherry onto cherry.

Climatic conditions

The Radonezh cherry variety is zoned in the central regions of the country with moderate climatic conditions. The tree is resistant to twenty-five degree frosts and spring frosts (the buds can withstand up to -5 degrees if the temperature drop is short-term. Loss is about 30%)

The soil

Cherries of this variety can grow on any soil, including sandy loam and rocky ones, but they begin to bear fruit late and develop poorly. For higher yields, trees are best placed on moist and fertile soils. In areas that are not shaded, and groundwater should not lie too close to the surface. To reduce soil acidity, dolomite flour or lime is used. Before autumn plowing, fertilizers are applied: manure, superphosphate, potassium salt.

Landing

You can dig a hole, put a tree in it, dig in the roots and water it. The cherry tree is tenacious and, of course, will grow. But it will begin to bear fruit late and the yield will be significantly lower than that of those trees that are planted taking into account all agronomic techniques: you must drive a wooden or bamboo stake into the hole in order to tie the tree to it after planting. A bucket of humus or a complex fertilizer containing superphosphate, potassium salt and ammonium nitrate is poured into the bottom. On loamy soils you can apply more, and on sandy soils less. The roots are straightened and covered with earth, tamped down well. After this, you should water the seedling and mulch the tree trunk circle. Find out what you can plant next to cherries here.

Agricultural technology

In the Central region, it is recommended to plant cherries in the spring, before the buds begin to bloom on the seedlings. But in order for the tree to be able to grow a good root system during the growing season and go into winter fully strengthened, the required agricultural techniques must be followed correctly. In the first year after planting, the seedling is not fertilized; the fertilizers that were added to the planting hole are sufficient for it. But watering should be carried out in a timely manner; the soil should not dry out, but it should not be over-moistened either. Therefore, before the next watering, you need to check the soil moisture level. A good way to retain moisture in the tree trunk for a longer period is to use mulch. By the way, it is also a barrier to the growth of weeds and a supplier of microelements. In the first year after planting, it is imperative to begin the formation of the crown. As a rule, the most common formation option is sparse-tiered. Despite the good resistance of cherries to diseases, preventive treatments should not be neglected.

Radonezh is an excellent variety for the Central region, as it has excellent winter hardiness and high resistance to major crop diseases. Thanks to its small size, care and harvesting are easier. The yield, although not excellent, is good, and most importantly stable. The taste of the berries is very good, the commercial quality is high. From the harvest you can prepare many delicious preparations for the winter. As such, no disadvantages were noticed for the variety. But some difficulties, especially for a novice gardener, can be caused by the post-planting need to follow agricultural practices, in particular the watering regime, otherwise the seedling may die without sufficient moisture.

Care

Caring for cherry trees consists of the following agrotechnical measures:

• Loosening tree trunk circles. Near the boles, the soil is dug up to 12–15 cm, and further to 20–25 cm;
• Mulching. If it is used, then young trees will not only begin to bear fruit earlier, but their yield will be 50% higher;
• As the trunk circles become overgrown with weeds, loosening is carried out. This can be from 5 to 6 times per season depending on the region where the cherries grow.

It is also necessary to properly water, fertilize and pruning. We will discuss the features of these operations below.

Landing rules

Planting is only possible in fertile soil. It must be sufficiently warmed up, and the area itself must be reliably protected from drafts. Before planting, it is necessary to reduce the acidity of the soil by adding lime or dolomite flour in combination with organic fertilizers.

Planting is recommended in spring. 2-year-old seedlings with a developed root system are suitable. You should dig a hole 80*80*50. Planting stages:

1. A peg is driven into the hole.
2. The seedling is positioned so that it is north of the peg. The root collar should be level with the ground.
3. The roots are covered with earth.
4. After planting, dig a ring-shaped hole around the trunk, water the plant (2 buckets of settled water) and mulch the soil.

You can grow a tree from seeds. This method of propagation takes a long time and is often used to acquire a high-quality rootstock. It is more expedient to carry out grafting using the vegetative method (root shoots and cuttings).

Watering

Cherries require less water than, for example, apple, pear or peach. Depending on the amount of precipitation, they are watered 2–3 times in the southern regions of the country, and 1–2 times in the northern regions. Watering begins in the second half of summer, when there is a large consumption of water. Although the timing may vary, depending on the moisture content of the soil layer in which the roots are located (depth 70–80 cm).

If the summer is humid and there is no drought, then from the beginning of August until the leaves completely fall off, there is no need to water the trees. Excess moisture during this period can lead to incomplete ripening of shoots and wood and, as a result, a decrease in frost resistance.

Feeding

In autumn, basic fertilizer is applied before plowing or digging. To increase frost resistance in the second half of summer, you can feed the plants with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. It is better to apply them into holes that are cut along the periphery of the root to a depth of 15 -20 cm. The amount of fertilizer applied varies and depends on the age of the tree. So, a ten-year-old needs 400 grams of ammonium nitrate, 900 grams of superphosphate, 300 grams of potassium salt. And for a twenty-year-old - 600 grams of ammonium nitrate, 1.2 kg of superphosphate and 400 grams of potassium salt.

Fertilizing is also carried out in fruit-bearing orchards in early spring and immediately after the trees bloom.

Mineral fertilizers should be applied only after abundant watering of the tree.

Trimmings

The first pruning should be done immediately after planting in order to reduce the evaporation of water from the ground part. If planting is done in the fall, the seedling is pruned in the spring before the buds open. The uppermost side branch is shortened by half or two thirds. The longer it is, the more it is cut off. All other “sides” with cut ends should be at the same level as the cut of the topmost side. In subsequent years, in the spring, it is imperative to thin out the crown of the planted tree and shape it so that it does not grow upward. This is necessary for ease of care and cleaning. Read how to get rid of cherry trees on your property here.

Crown thinning is carried out less frequently than in pome-bearing species. With severe thinning, the shoots are damaged by sunburn and gum formation appears.

Preparing for winter

Only young trees need to be prepared for winter. And not from freezing, but to protect against rodents in winter. They are the ones who can damage the bark. Therefore, in the fall, before the onset of frost, it is advisable to wrap the trunk with burlap or paper from juice bags. If you throw a pile of snow on a tree trunk, then it needs to be compacted well so that rodents do not get to the young bark. This material will tell you why the cherries withered after winter.

Pros and cons of the variety

The Radonezh cherry variety is chosen by gardeners in the central part of the country, primarily for its frost resistance. Trees tolerate temperatures well down to 25 degrees below zero. In addition, the variety has the following positive qualities:

• A medium-sized tree, which simplifies its care and harvesting;
• Immunity against most stone fruit diseases;
• Good yield - up to 70 centners per hectare;
• The berries have good taste and a high tasting score;
• The versatility of berries. They can not only be consumed fresh. The fruits are used to make wines and tinctures.

But Radonezh cherries have one drawback: average transportability. Ripe cherries do not firmly hold on to the stalk and break away from it at the slightest effort.

Basic subtleties of planting and subsequent plant care

Radonezh cherry: photo of variety

Radonezh cherries are distinguished by a high level of resistance to frost and sudden temperature changes, and also, in principle, if spring frosts suddenly return, then planting there will feel as comfortable as possible.

These circumstances do not in any way affect the abundance and quality of fruiting. But it is still worth keeping in mind that in any case, the general condition of the planting will largely depend on the gardener himself, the level of yield, its regularity and abundance will depend.

If the gardener follows all the rules and nuances of agricultural technology from start to finish, and gives the planting everything it needs, then the results will be simply magnificent.

It is recommended to plant Radonezh cherries in the spring , as the seedling will have more time to take root and adapt, which means the risk that the tree will freeze or will not have time to prepare for the onset of frost will be reduced (this usually happens if planting was scheduled for autumn).

But, again, this point depends on in which area and region the planting is being carried out, since if these are the southern regions, then Radonezh cherries can be planted there in the fall - they will have time to adapt before the onset of unfavorable temperatures. But in Central Russia and closer to the north, it is still worth taking care of organizing planting in the spring.

Site preparation

Let's start with preparing the site for planting seedlings and with the procedure for planting cherries in open ground.

The holes for planting seedlings should be up to half a meter deep, and their diameter varies from half a meter to sixty centimeters. Again, you should focus on the size of the seedling itself, on the size of the root system - the roots should be comfortable in the hole, not cramped, there should be free space.

If this is not a single, but a group planting, then there should be a distance between the seedlings, which is about three meters. In general, it is worth considering that plantings need enough space in order to grow normally and actively develop.

In addition, when the trees grow taller, they will not shade each other, which means each cherry will have sunlight and space for growth and development.

When a gardener prepares a hole, he must mix the soil he takes out of it with humus in a 1:1 ratio. You can also add potassium chloride, superphosphate, and ash there to normalize the general condition of the soil and make it more saturated and nutritious for cherry growth.

If the area suddenly has heavy and clayey soil, then river sand should be added to it before planting cherries. Thanks to it, the soil will become looser, and this will have a beneficial effect on future planting.

Radonezh cherries need the root system to be constantly saturated with moisture and oxygen, because only thanks to this the roots will not begin to rot and pathogenic bacteria will not develop on them.

Before planting, seedlings are carefully inspected for damage or disease.

If suddenly the root system or its parts are affected, then they must be carefully removed. The cut areas must be treated with activated carbon so that bacteria no longer penetrate there.

Next, the seedling is sent to open ground, it is planted in a hole, and a peg is installed nearby. The stake is necessary in order to support the planting, and also to ensure that when the wind blows, the seedling does not break or be damaged.

The root collar should protrude about three to four centimeters above the soil surface.

Complete landing algorithm

• The gardener selects healthy and healthy seedlings and examines them from all sides. Before planting, the seedlings are placed in a growth stimulator - root for several hours;
• The seedling is placed in a pre-prepared hole, which is filled with fertile soil. A peg is driven into the center, which will become a future support for planting. The mixture is poured around the peg in the form of a mound, and the seedling itself is placed on the mound. Experienced gardeners recommend planting not alone, but together - one person will support the seedling from above, and the second will carefully straighten the roots;
• Next, they begin to add soil to the roots; this should be done carefully, constantly shaking the seedling. This must be done to ensure that air pockets do not form around the roots, which will lead to the formation of cavities and the development of pathogenic bacteria;
• A Radonezh cherry seedling is tied to a peg and done carefully. This can be done from the north side of the peg strictly vertically - the seedling should not deviate anywhere, otherwise this will lead to the tree growing unevenly and unevenly.

Then the gardener monitors how the seedling takes root, how it adapts and takes root in new conditions. It is extremely important to maintain the vital activity of the planting and mulch the tree trunk circle. Mulch performs several functions - it protects the planting from attack by bacteria, and also prevents moisture from evaporating from the soil too quickly. In addition, thanks to mulch, the required amount of heat is retained in the soil, which is also very important for the overall condition of the planting.

After planting the Radonezh cherry seedling has been completed, an earthen roller should be made around the entire circumference. It should be located approximately 25 centimeters from the main trunk, and thanks to this roller the space will be designated for full watering of the plant.

It is recommended to water the seedlings with settled water at room temperature. It is best not to use very cold water, as this will put the planting under extreme stress. In general, the root system of a plant is considered very delicate and vulnerable, and therefore it is still recommended to be very careful about both the watering process and fertilizing.

They are part of agrotechnical measures, just like pruning, fertilizing, harvesting, and planting rejuvenation.

Cherry Radonezh: care activities

Radonezh cherry: photo of variety

Radonezh cherries do not tolerate transplantation, so initially the gardener should make sure that the planting area is as comfortable and well-lit as possible.

To water one cherry seedling, the gardener will need about two or three buckets of water, but be sure to take into account temperature indicators and conditions, because otherwise the planting will feel less comfortable, and in general the growth and development of this cherry seedling may noticeably slow down. Because of this, the fruiting periods will shift.

When the Radonezh cherry tree matures, the agricultural technology can be changed a little. For example, it is worth increasing the number of waterings - at least three times per season. You should also focus on climatic and weather conditions, the amount of precipitation and the duration of dry periods. Only taking into account all the external features, as well as taking into account the state of the planting, will it be possible to create the most favorable watering schedule that will meet all planting requirements.

The first watering of Radonezh cherries should be scheduled for the time when flowering ends. The second time the cherries are watered after the fruits have gradually filled in and when they begin to gradually ripen. At this time, they really need watering so that they can become juicy and large - something that corresponds to the varietal indicators and characteristics. The third watering should be carried out at the very beginning of October, after the leaves have fallen and the planting must be prepared for the winter period.

You should remember to loosen the soil after watering throughout the growing season. Also, the tree trunk circle should not only be loose (to allow oxygen and moisture to pass through), but also cleared of weeds and other excess vegetation. This may not have the best effect on the condition of the plantings, their characteristics and properties, and therefore it is still worth paying as much attention as possible to some issues and issues related to the hygiene and aesthetics of the sites.

Let's talk a little about feeding. In the first couple of years, planting will not require the application of fertilizers and fertilizing at all for the reason that they will be saturated with all the necessary substances and components from the saturated and enriched soil. But after two or three years, it is still necessary to begin adding additional fertilizers and substances so that the plantings can feel much more comfortable.

Typically, fertilizers are applied in the autumn, before the gardener orders in-depth digging of the garden plot. So, for one cherry tree we will need to apply potassium fertilizers, phosphorus fertilizers (all these fertilizers are applied mainly in dry form). In early spring, it is necessary to make the soil saturated with nitrogen-containing components.

This will require about fifty grams of fertilizer, which will be ideal for saturating the planting and creating the most favorable conditions for it. You should not be overzealous with fertilizing, as you can quite overfeed the planting and cause harm to it. And in general, experienced gardeners say that it is better not to feed the planting more than to create satiety conditions for it, in which the cherry will experience discomfort.

When the Radonezh cherry reaches the age of two years, the crown should begin to be formed . To do this, the branches are pruned. They carefully inspect the planting, shorten the growths so that the plant looks not just neat, but also healthy.

If the Radonezh cherry becomes quite old, then gardeners are recommended to carry out anti-aging pruning. Thanks to it, the tree can be given a second life. It is worth keeping in mind that, in principle, trees tolerate these procedures quite calmly and recover normally after pruning and shaping.

Frost protection is another important requirement that gardeners must maintain. The fact is that the winter period can be very harsh, both for adult plants and young seedlings.

Therefore, it is necessary to protect plantings using materials such as glass wool and roofing felt, reeds, spruce forests, and thick paper.

If the trunk has been damaged by rodents, pests, or mechanically by the gardener himself, then the damaged area is carefully cleaned with a knife and lubricated with garden varnish to prevent further penetration of infection into the bark.

It is better to tie the trunk on top with a dense material that will allow a small amount of air to pass through. In general, if you create such conditions for planting, you can reduce the risk of damage, freezing or other negative effects from planting.

Radonezh cherry: photo of variety

Let's talk a little about what pests and how they can be dangerous for a cherry tree. In general, the variety is quite resistant, and with all this, it is quite rarely affected by such common diseases as moniliosis or coccomycosis, which can lead to the inevitable death of the plant.

Rodents can attack plantings, but not very often. The thing is that the bark of the tree is bitter, and its taste does not attract rodents or other pests at all. This is another advantage of planting, since it can restore itself.

conclusions

Thus, Radonezh cherries have the following characteristics:

1. The variety is winter-hardy. Trees can withstand temperatures down to -25 degrees.
2. Productivity is from 50 to 70 centners per hectare.
3. Universal berries.
4. The variety resists well the diseases characteristic of stone fruits: clysterosporiasis, gray rot.
5. Radonezh cherry is partially self-fertile.
6. Transportability of berries is average.

But in order to get a healthy tree and good fruiting, you need to choose the right seedling and plant it in accordance with agrotechnical requirements. And also carry out fertilizing, loosening, and watering in a timely manner.

Rossoshanskaya black cherry – third place

This crop was included in the register of breeding achievements 30 years ago, but in many respects it is not inferior to modern varieties. The tree differs from other varieties in its high yield, with a fruit weight of 4.5 g. The color of the cherries is almost black, the flesh is dark red, dense, but juicy.

The variety is self-fertile, medium-ripening, universal. Resistant to fungal diseases. The disadvantage is the average winter hardiness of the wood. The buds, on the contrary, tolerate frost easily; they are not afraid of spring frosts.

Recommended for cultivation in the south of the middle zone (Voronezh and Volgograd regions). Also widespread in the North Caucasus.