Technology and secrets of growing watermelons in the Moscow region in a greenhouse and open ground conditions

Rules for preparing seeds

Growing watermelon should begin with proper preparation of purchased seed material. Considering that watermelon seeds take quite a long time to germinate, it is recommended to start sowing seedlings around mid-April.

Seed material should be subjected to the following preparatory measures:

• before sowing, watermelon seeds should be kept in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate for a quarter of an hour;
• after soaking the seed material in a disinfectant composition, the seeds should be washed thoroughly in clean water at room temperature;
• the washed seeds should be wrapped in a cloth soaked in clean water and then placed in a warm place;
• The optimal temperature for germinating watermelon seeds should be between 25-30°C.

Obtaining watermelon seedlings

In nature, watermelon spreads its seeds with the help of animals. The desert fox or lizard eats the pulp to replenish its body's moisture reserves and runs on. The pulp is digested very quickly, but the seeds do not have time, only damaging their shell. The animal drops undigested seeds at some distance from the bush, and this is what the watermelon needs. He is so accustomed to such treatment that his seeds germinate much better after heating and scarification.

Seeds of watermelon

To increase germination, the melon grower will have to imitate the passage of seeds through the stomach of an animal. To do this, the seeds are placed in a thermos, in water heated to about 40 degrees, and kept for 2-3 hours. Then wrap it in damp gauze and place it in a plastic bag near a heat source, such as a heating radiator.

To prevent the seeds from suffocating, the bag is opened slightly for ventilation several times a day.

Watermelon sprouts

In about a week, seedlings will appear. Considering that watermelon, like all pumpkin plants, reacts very painfully to transplants, there are no plans to pick seedlings. Therefore, the seedlings are immediately planted in a container in which they can later be planted in the soil of the greenhouse: peat pots or peat tablets. Planting depth is 3-4 cm.

Attention! For watering watermelons, like cucumbers, only warm water is suitable.

Growing watermelons in the Moscow region in a greenhouse

The technology for growing melons in a greenhouse is not too complicated, but it requires compliance with some rules due to the characteristics of this heat-loving plant:

• prepared watermelon seedlings should be planted on greenhouse beds only after the soil temperature is 14-15˚C or higher;
• No more than two or three plants should be planted per square meter, which guarantees that the melon crop will be provided with a full nutritional area;

• It is recommended to prepare planting holes in advance by adding complex fertilizers and humus;
• the soil in the holes should be watered as abundantly as possible, after which the watermelon seedlings are carefully removed from the seedling container and placed to form a kind of elevation around the stem that prevents moisture from stagnating at the root system;
• planting seedlings of a heat-loving crop in an unheated greenhouse requires the use of additional film cover for a week after planting.

Proper care of watermelons in a greenhouse allows you to get the highest and highest quality yield. Particular attention is required to adhere to the ventilation regime , which will avoid an increase in humidity that is detrimental to melons. Comfortable temperature readings during the daytime are 24-30°C, and at night it is recommended to reduce the temperature to 18-20°C. Cultivation is carried out using a trellis method.

Watermelon care

To get a good harvest of this melon crop, you must follow certain care rules both in the open ground and in the greenhouse.

In the open ground

Crop care comes down to such agrotechnical techniques as watering, loosening, fertilizing, and bush formation.

Loosening

One of the conditions for obtaining a good harvest in the Moscow region is loose soil and the absence of weeds. To do this, the ground is periodically loosened, weeds are removed, and the seedlings are hilled up to the cotyledon leaves.

It is especially important to loosen the soil after rainfall or watering so that there is no soil crust. This improves the flow of air to the roots.

Watering

As for watering, they do it once a week, using 3 buckets of water per 1 m². In hot weather and during the flowering period, 2 such waterings are carried out per week, while the soil around the plants and between the rows is irrigated. After moistening the plant, it is recommended to mulch it, which will retain moisture and prevent weed growth. As the fruits develop, watering is gradually reduced and stopped completely 2 weeks before harvest.

Watermelons need to be watered once a week, using 3 buckets of water per 1 m²

Top dressing

During the growing season, watermelons are fed several times. With each feeding, one plant should receive 2 liters of solution. A week after planting the seedlings in open ground, they are watered with the following composition, which is prepared per 10 liters of water:

• 40–50 g superphosphate;
• 30–35 g ammonium sulfate;
• 15–20 g of potassium salt.

During the period of active growth of watermelon vines, plants are fed with a similar solution, halving potassium and phosphorus fertilizers. The bushes are fertilized again at the beginning of the formation of the ovaries, for which a solution is prepared from the following components:

• 20–25 g ammonium sulfate;
• 10 g superphosphate;
• 35 g potassium salt.

The composition is applied into pre-arranged furrows at a distance of 15–20 cm from the plants.

A lower content of nitrogen fertilizers during the last feeding will eliminate the accumulation of nitrates in the berry pulp.

Video: watering and feeding watermelons in open ground

Formation

To get larger fruits, watermelon bushes must be formed correctly. The procedure involves pinching shoots and is carried out as follows:

1. The main stem is pinched after 5–6 true leaves have formed. This will ensure the development of side shoots on which ovaries will form.
2. Pinch off the growth points of the shoots on which ovaries have formed. No more than three fruits are left on one bush.

To get large and ripened watermelon fruits, it is necessary to correctly and timely form the bush

During the formation of the bush, you need to monitor and promptly remove excess stepsons. If the shoot has grown quite strong, then there is no need to pull it - it is better to cut it off.

Stepson is a shoot that is formed from the leaf sinus.

When forming a watermelon bush, it is necessary to remove the stepsons that develop from the axils of the leaves (in the photo, for example, a tomato bush)

Video: forming a watermelon in open ground

In the greenhouse

In greenhouse conditions, caring for a watermelon is not difficult, although some nuances must be taken into account.

Watering

At the beginning of summer, watermelons need watering, especially when hot weather sets in, the green mass grows, flowering occurs and fruits form. Irrigation should be plentiful, but not excessive, i.e. stagnation of water should be avoided. At the beginning of fruit set, the amount of watering is reduced to once every 2 weeks. When a fruit the size of an apple has formed, irrigation is stopped completely.

Excessive watering makes watermelon less sweet, so in July it is practically not watered.

When irrigation is stopped, it is recommended to pour a layer of sand under the plant to better warm the root system.

Watermelons need watering most at the beginning of summer, during the growth of green mass, flowering and fruit set. The best option for these purposes would be drip irrigation.

Top dressing

In the greenhouse, watermelon is fed several times:

• when the length of the lash reaches 25 cm;
• before flowering;
• during the formation of the ovary.

It is best to use ammonium nitrate (20 g) diluted in water (10 l) as a fertilizer. In addition to mineral fertilizers, you can use organic matter, for example, chicken manure. The nutrient solution is prepared in a ratio of 1:10 and 0.5 liters are added per plant.

Watermelon is fed several times during the growing season, for which you can use both mineral and organic fertilizers, for example, a solution of chicken manure

Temperature

Watermelon grows well indoors at daytime temperatures of +30˚С and night temperatures of +20˚С. To prevent the formation of condensation, the greenhouse structure must be ventilated, while avoiding drafts.

Formation

In closed ground, the melon crop in question also needs to be formed. The simplest option is to grow a watermelon in one stem. To do this, the main shoot is directed upward along the rope, and all the side shoots are removed. Fruit set occurs on the central stem. The main shoot is pinched, leaving 5 leaves behind the top fruit. The amount of ovary that is left depends on the variety and growing region. In the Moscow region, you should not leave more than three ovaries, since a larger number may simply not ripen. The number of berries that can be left is determined experimentally.

In a greenhouse, a watermelon is mainly formed into one stem, i.e. when the fruits are formed only on the main shoot

There is a more complex way of forming a watermelon in protected ground:

1. The central shoot is fixed to the trellis with a rope.
2. The lower two stepsons are pinched at the beginning of development.
3. Shoots on which female flowers have not formed until the 6th or 7th leaf are removed are removed.
4. Stems with female flowers, i.e. with ovaries, are pinched, leaving 2-3 leaves from them.
5. No more than three fruits are left on one plant.
6. The main stem is pinched, leaving 5 leaves from the top berry.

With this method of formation, ovaries are formed on the side shoots.

Video: forming a watermelon in a greenhouse

https://youtube.com/watch?v=ac0RDKtyP5o

Pollination

If there are no problems with pollination in open ground, then in a greenhouse it is recommended to carry out this procedure yourself, since insects may not fly through open windows and doors. To do this, pick a male flower, tear off its petals and lean it several times against the female flower (anthers to the stigma). It is important that the temperature does not drop below +12˚С, otherwise there will be no result from pollination.

Male flowers bloom first early in the morning and “live” for literally several hours, while female flowers last 2–3 days.

Male and female flowers differ in appearance: the female one is smaller in size and initially you can see a small ovary on it

Growing in open ground

It is recommended to sow seed material to obtain high-quality and productive watermelon seedlings in the first ten days of May , which will allow the plants to be planted in the ground after the threat of return spring frosts has passed:

• for growing watermelons, it is necessary to allocate areas that are well-lit and warmed by the sun's rays, not exposed to the cold and gusty north wind;
• good results are obtained by growing watermelons on raised beds, as well as old compost heaps;
• if melon seedlings were grown in peat pots, then it is advisable to completely remove them when planting the plants in a permanent place, which will facilitate and accelerate the survival and growth of the root system;
• plants should be planted in holes at least 8-10 cm deep, located at a distance of one and a half meters from each other;
• After planting in a permanent place, watermelon seedlings should be watered abundantly with warm water, avoiding stagnation of moisture at the root system of the plant.

In the first week, it is recommended to cover all melon seedlings planted on open ground ridges with non-woven material, which will reduce the risk of damage to plants by low temperatures and protect against the negative effects of direct sunlight.

Variety selection

Early ripening varieties of medium-sized watermelons with a ripening period from germination to harvest from 70 to 85 days:

• Chill;
• Express;
• Shustrik;
• Ogonyok.

Hybrid large-fruited oval watermelons with a ripening period of up to 85 days:

• Charleston Region F1;
• Eureka F1;
• Siberian giant;
• Palladin;
• Pink champagne.

You will be interested to know: When and how to properly plant watermelons for seedlings - advice from experienced gardeners

All of the listed varieties of watermelons have time to ripen in open ground and in a greenhouse. But they need to be grown in central Russia through seedlings.

Protection from diseases and pests

Of course, diseases of melon crops are best prevented, since treatment is not always effective and often causes the death of the plant. Watermelon plantings are especially often affected by the following diseases:

• fungal infection by powdery mildew is accompanied by the appearance of a grayish-white coating, causing the death of foliage, deformation and rotting of fruits;
• damage by downy mildew is most often observed on old leaves in the form of the formation of angular light yellow spots and is accompanied by a cessation of plant development;
• a common disease, olive spot, involves the appearance of irregularly shaped spots, corrugated leaves and falling ovaries;

• when affected by bacteriosis, characteristic whitish oily spots form on watermelon leaves, resulting in the withering of the stems and fruits;
• fungal infection of anthracnose is accompanied by the appearance of brown or yellow spots, which in conditions of high humidity become covered with a pinkish coating;
• rot of the aerial parts and root system have a destructive effect and often cause complete death of the plant;
• It is very dangerous for watermelons to be infected with cucumber mosaic, since such a viral disease is almost impossible to cure.

Landing dates

Usually, watermelons in the Moscow region are planted in the ground in the first ten days of June, when stable warm weather sets in. By the time of planting, at least two true leaves grow on the bush.

Soil preparation

A suitable place for the culture is well lit and reliably protected from the gusts of the prevailing wind. A site on which legumes and onions grew is suitable. Poor predecessors include vegetables from the Pumpkin family. A week before planting, make a warm bed based on a trench. The bottom is covered with cut grass, humus and watered with boiling water. The top is covered with earth and covered with film.

The seedlings are planted in holes that have been previously watered with a saturated solution of potassium permanganate. When planting, they try not to touch the roots: watermelon does not tolerate changing places. Plastic cups are carefully removed, peat cups are left unchanged. They are planted without deepening the soil, otherwise the root collar may rot.

Planting scheme

For the development of the plant, a lot of space is needed so that the lashes lie freely. When planting bushes, maintain a distance of 0.8 m between them in a row, and a distance between rows of at least 200 cm.

The best varieties of watermelons for the Moscow region

You can count on a good watermelon harvest in the Moscow region only by growing undemanding early ripening varieties and hybrid forms.

In the open ground conditions of the Moscow region, it is recommended to give preference to the cultivation of varieties belonging to the “Prince” series, including the hybrid forms “Hamlet-F1”, “Arthur-F1”, “Charles-F1”, “Harry-F1” and “Albert-F1” .

Features of harvesting and storage

The ripeness of the fruit is determined by the condition of the stalk: it must dry out. Also, when tapped, ripe fruits produce a dull, ringing sound. In the Moscow region, watermelons ripen in mid-to-late August.

Late crops are characterized by long-term storage. If favorable conditions are created, the shelf life can be 1–5 months.

Conditions for long-term storage:

• temperature +5…+10°С;
• humidity 60–75%;
• complete darkness;
• good ventilation.

You can store fruits in several ways:

1. Wrap in cotton cloth and hang one at a time in nets.
2. Place tails down in boxes with sand or wood ash.
3. Place on long shelves lined with straw.

If you follow the basic rules of agricultural technology, even in unfavorable conditions in the Moscow region, you can successfully harvest a full harvest of watermelons. The main task comes down to growing high-quality seedlings and protecting them from high humidity at the time of fruit appearance.

Pollination of watermelons in the garden

If the flower is not pollinated, the fruit will not grow. It’s great if bees, bumblebees and other insects fly into the garden. What if they are infrequent guests or watermelons grow in a greenhouse? Then you can attract bees or pollinate the flowers by hand. Flying insects will be attracted by the sweet smell; you can pre-plant plants or flowers with a pronounced sweet smell next to the melons, or simply sprinkle water with added sugar or honey on the flowers from time to time.

Artificial pollination of plants

To pollinate plants by hand in a greenhouse or at home, you need to transfer pollen from a male flower to a female flower. This can be done with a brush or cotton swab. Or you can simply pick a male flower and generously shake the pollen over the female one.

Note! The female flower differs from the male one in that it (the female) has a small fruit at the bottom

Favorable conditions for growth

Watermelons are heat-loving plants with a massive above-ground part. They love spacious sunny areas and cannot tolerate even slight shade. Therefore, it is better to prepare large beds for them, without saving space, away from trees and shrubs. Successful cultivation of juicy watermelons and melons in the open ground of the Moscow region is quite possible, although it requires some knowledge and certain skills.

Harvest

Having created optimal conditions for heat-loving melons on your own plot, by the end of summer you can pleasantly surprise your family and friends with your own watermelons and melons. The soil for melons should be light and well fertilized so that the plant receives enough nutrients for active growth and rapid ripening of fruits. In early and mid-summer, plants require abundant watering, so if natural precipitation is insufficient, you will have to take care of additional irrigation. You need to try to ensure that warm water gets only onto the ground and not onto the foliage.

Important! In the second half of summer, when watermelons ripen, watering should be limited so that the crop gains the desired sweetness.

For the construction of a melon bed, a gentle slope, well illuminated by the sun and devoid of tall vegetation, is ideal. Watermelon seedlings should be planted on it in vertical rows, then the overgrown vines will be well and evenly warmed by the sun's rays. Probably, the fruits may grow a little smaller in size than those of their southern neighbors, but they will not be inferior to them in terms of juiciness and sugar content.

Bed for melons

Tips and recommendations from experienced gardeners

Experienced farmers know how best to grow delicious watermelon in the Moscow region, but novice summer residents have yet to learn the secrets of the heat-loving berries.

The easiest way is to use the seedling method, although some farmers prefer to grow melons in spacious greenhouses in which the canes grow up the trellises. In the absence of greenhouse complexes, the seedling method of growing watermelons is fully justified.

Straw under the fruit

Set fruits on vines located in open ground should not lie directly on the ground. To prevent disease and damage to the crop, a layer of dry straw or other natural material, such as wood, should be placed under the watermelons.

To gain experience in growing watermelons and determine the most appropriate method of cultivation for yourself, you need to experiment and plant different varieties of melons. There is no need to be afraid. The experience of summer residents near Moscow shows that it is quite possible to grow delicious watermelons.

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