Planting tomatoes: how to choose a variety, planting seedlings, care

Every gardener was once a beginner too. In fact, growing fruit and vegetable plants is not so easy. And you can grow this or that crop using the trial and error method.

Tomatoes are in second place in popularity. But how do you know which variety is right for you? How to grow correctly so that the crop does not get sick, grows well and gives a stable harvest? Read about all this, the nuances of planting tomatoes, difficulties in growing, and the main mistakes gardeners make in the article.

Botanical description

The tomato (or tomato) is a herbaceous perennial plant native to South America. Tomatoes have been known since the end of the 16th century, but in our homeland they have been cultivated only since the 18th century. Genus: nightshade, nightshade family.

The tomato inflorescence is often yellow, the leaf is light green to dark green in color. Sometimes there is fluff or resemblance to a potato leaf.

Its closest relative is the potato, with which it is not recommended to plant tomatoes. Tomatoes are divided according to various criteria: type of growth, ripening period, purpose, color, etc. After flowering ends, fruit clusters appear on the bush, on which up to 10 fruits are located. Some tomatoes ripen smoothly, others do not. In this case, summer residents collect the fruits and set them for ripening. Ripe fruits are usually rich, bright red in color and taste from sour-sweet to sweet. The fruit contains several seed chambers with a small number of seeds, which are later used for harvesting for the next planting.

Types and varieties of tomatoes

To properly grow tomatoes, a gardener needs to know about the type of growth and variety of the plant. Both future yield and susceptibility to diseases depend on the right variety. There are two types of tomato bush:

Low-growing (determinate, whose growth is limited after the formation of the first flower cluster;
Tall (indeterminate. Plant growth is not limited).

According to the ripening period, tomatoes are divided according to three criteria:

Early ripening;
Average;
Late.

Early ripening varieties

Growing tomatoes with early ripening is simply a paradise for a summer resident: the bush grows quickly, practically does not have time to get sick with various diseases, and the harvest yields quickly. There are more than 70 varieties and hybrids in the state register of breeding achievements. As they say, for every taste.

As a rule, varieties with early ripening are distinguished not only by their low bush type, but also by excellent fruit characteristics: taste, weight and yield. Early ripening varieties do not require pinching.

The best representatives of the variety : “White filling”, “Iskorka”, “Gruntovy Gribovsky 1180”.

The best varieties of medium ripening

Mid-season tomato varieties produce a harvest in about 100-130 days. Such varieties have good immunity to most nightshade diseases: late blight, blossom end rot, brown spot and others. The fruit size of most mid-ripening varieties is average. Productivity is high.

The best representatives: “Fakel”, “New Transnistria”.

The best late-ripening varieties

Late-ripening varieties are grown mainly in the southern regions of the country. The fruits of this variety ripen late, but bear fruit until autumn. The first fruits from the moment of germination are given in 150 days. Immunity is high, the yield of some varieties is above average.

The best representatives: “Ermak”, “Tortila F1”.

There are also interesting and quite unusual varieties

Our breeders are constantly coming up with something new. The resulting varieties are distinguished not only by improved properties, but also by an interesting shape and color of the fruit.

Low-growing determinate tomatoes

How to grow determinate tomatoes: just like the rest. In principle, they are no different from others. There is one thing in common for most low-growing tomatoes: early ripening and high yields.

The best representatives : “Riddle”, “Crimson Vicante”, “Sanka” and others.

Tall indeterminate tomatoes

Tomatoes of this type reach a height of more than 1-1.5 meters. Other species (if the variety is hybrid) reach a height of two meters. The approximate ripening period for these tomatoes does not exceed 115 days. The size of the fruits is from medium to very large. Productivity and taste are excellent.

The best representatives : “Hybrid Tarasenko 2”, “Persimmon”, “Bear’s Paw” and others.

Dutch selection tomatoes

Tomatoes from Holland are practically no different from Russian ones. There are both early-ripening and medium-ripening varieties. The bushes are the same, with typical leaves. The weight and shape of the berries are also different. Sometimes they differ in color. The yield of Dutch tomatoes is good; up to 10 kg of berries are harvested from one bush.

The best representatives: “Manatee”, “Solarosso”, “Shady Lady”, “Tarpan” and others. Many Dutch tomatoes contain large amounts of sugar in their fruits.

Preparing seeds for sowing. Processing at home

There is an opinion that before sowing, tomato seeds should be subjected to all known methods of preparation.

Advice from experienced gardeners is important, but it is not the only and not always reliable source of information.

It is much more advisable to listen to the advice of agricultural scientists. Based on scientific evidence, they believe that in most cases one should not disturb nature.

It is necessary to influence the seeds in cases where:

There is a desire to awaken old seeds of a very good variety to life;
Seeds are collected from a diseased plant;
The seed was purchased from an unknown gardener.
The manufacturer's packaging does not indicate what kind of processing the material was subjected to.

Calibration

This process is necessary to select full-fledged seeds of the same size, so that the grown fruits do not differ in size.

The first step is to visually select broken, black or misshapen seeds.

Then all the seeds are mixed in a saline solution (1 teaspoon of salt per 0.5 liters of water). In seven minutes the lungs will float to the surface.

According to breeders, these are seeds suitable for planting, which should be planted separately, since their germination process will be slower than others . The heavy ones that have settled at the bottom will germinate in due time. The third step is to remove and wash the seeds under running water. The fourth is drying.

Disinfection

A common method of disinfection is to use a solution of potassium permanganate (1 gram of potassium permanganate per 1 liter of water).

Seeds wrapped in gauze are kept in the solution for 20 minutes. Then washed and dried.

Germination can be negatively affected by:

Inaccurate dosage of the substance.
Failure to comply with the term for keeping seeds in solution.
Failure to comply with the timing of sowing seeds after disinfection.

The first two points can be excluded if phytospirin is used to eliminate or prevent fungal and bacterial diseases (instructions are included in the package or on it).

Stratification

The seeds are subjected to this processing method (cooling) for three months. Since tomatoes do not require long-term cooling, they are affected for only 3-5 days.

To do this, diseased or old seeds (also those that are prepared for planting in early spring) are placed in wet gauze in the refrigerator in the vegetable department. The gauze needs to be moistened from time to time. The goal of all manipulations is to awaken the seeds.

Next, you can watch a video about how experienced gardeners recommend processing seeds:

How tomatoes reproduce

As is known from the botanical description, tomatoes reproduce not only by seeds. Very often they reproduce by stepsons. And some, more advanced gardeners are able to grow seedlings from trimmed tops.

Seeds

Propagating tomatoes by seeds is the easiest way to grow seedlings. Breeders struggle with a new variety and new seeds every year so that everyone can choose a variety to their taste. Purchased planting material does not require pre-treatment.

Cuttings

This method is usually used for hybrid tomato varieties. This method is quite labor-intensive and time-consuming. Therefore, it is better to obtain seedlings through the seed method. But if you decide to experiment, do the following:

Before the onset of autumn frosts, cut the tops and shoots from tomatoes with a powerful stem. The tops should have 2-4 leaves, and the length should not exceed 15 cm;
Place the cuttings in a jar of water in the amount of 5 pieces maximum. Immersion depth - no more than 10 cm;
After a few days, you will notice that the lower part of the cuttings will grow roots and the stems will begin to grow;
After you notice the growing stems, you cut off about 15 cm of the upper part (the lower part, where the roots are, throw it away), put it back in a jar of water and put it in a warm place;
When late December or early January arrives, you cut off the root part again and throw it away, continuing to grow the top;
The last final stage is the beginning of February. At the end of February, you transplant the tops into the soil, having first removed a couple of lower leaves.

Tops and stepsons

Stepplanting is another effective way to get a new plant. To do this, you cut the overgrown seedlings into a couple of parts. The one that remains in the pot will soon form a stepson from which a new stem will grow. You place the upper part in moist soil or water. It will also grow roots.

What mineral fertilizers should be applied?

In addition to organic matter, you can also put regular mineral fertilizers in the hole when planting tomatoes in the spring. There must be nitrogen, for example, saltpeter, urea. It is enough to put 1 tbsp of these substances. l. and mix the granules with the soil. You can also make a solution of 30 g in a bucket of water and simply pour it into the wells.

In addition to nitrogen, phosphorus fertilizers must be added when planting to stimulate root formation and development. Superphosphate is ideal. It must also be added 1 tbsp. l. on a tomato hole.

Growing conditions

In order for the plant to produce normal fruits in the future, the necessary conditions for this must be observed: watering, loosening, mulching and other nuances. The first three are the most important in caring for tomatoes. But the most important condition is a suitable place with enough light.

Illumination

The tomato comes from hot places. If the seedlings do not receive enough light, they become stretched. And then it might break. If a mature bush does not receive normal light during the period of fruit formation, the fruits will take much longer to ripen. The beds should be open, sunny, and there should be no shadow on the site. To ensure that the plant receives light, do not thicken the planting too much.

The temperature should be high enough. Too low a temperature will cause the pollen to become unripe, and a high temperature will cause it to dry out. Such pollen will become sterile and will be unable to pollinate.

Soil moisture and looseness

Caring for tomatoes involves more than just regular watering and weeding. To ensure that the plant breathes normally and suffers as little as possible from pests, the soil is regularly loosened. Loosening is carried out after each watering, and not when a dry crust has formed on the soil. Why is loosening an important procedure?

Imagine that you are dressed in tight and tight clothes, and it is a hot day outside. You don't have enough air, you feel cramped. The heat makes your blood pressure rise. Now imagine how a plant feels when it grows in dry, dense soil. It withers. The leaves are turning yellow. Flowering and fruit ripening are slow. Weeding provides oxygen access to the stems and roots, and mulching retains moisture well.

How to make drip irrigation with your own hands

It is very good when the garden is small, only a few hundred square meters. But what to do if the garden reaches an area of both 10 and 20 acres? This happens especially often in the countryside. Watering a bunch of plants with a watering can will be a pain in the ass. Therefore, our people constantly simplify their lives. One of the most effective ways to water plants is drip.

It can be done using a pressure reducer and supply water directly from the water supply. But some gardeners purchase a special container for water. For drip irrigation you will need several types of components:

Special container for water;
Pump;
Other additional elements (taps, plugs, corners, tees);
Hoses;
Drip tape.

Watering tomatoes through tubes

Some gardeners have gone even further and water the plants using medical droppers. Only the drip tape is replaced with plastic pipes with a diameter of no more than 15-20 mm.

What should be done:

Cut the pipe into small even pieces that are equal to the length of the beds;
Close one end of the pipe with a wooden plug;
On each segment, drill small holes that are equal in diameter to the diameter of the end of the dropper. The interval between holes is 50 cm;
Lay the pipes along the beds and connect the open end to the main pipe using a fitting;
Insert a medical dropper into each hole;
Place the tubes themselves in the area where the tomato roots are located;
Start watering. The feed speed is self-adjustable.

Underground irrigation

This method is not very popular, since it is associated not only with installation difficulties, but also with risk and high cost. In addition, it is used only for those regions where heat and drought do not subside. With this system, water is supplied directly to the roots.

Disadvantages of this method:

Expensive;
Installation difficulties;
Difficulty in operating the system;
Risk of pipe blockage;
Periodic penetration of roots into pipes;
Damage to pipes by rodents.

Is it possible to grow tomatoes without watering?

Growing tomatoes in open ground involves some nuances. Firstly, it's watering. In order for a tomato to actively grow and bear fruit, it requires a lot of water. But oddly enough, watering the tomato crop should not be too frequent. Many gardeners especially sin with this kind of watering, watering tomatoes all the time, even when they begin to ripen. As a result, the soil becomes too wet and there is a risk of late blight infection. And this disease is the death of the entire crop.

In some regions, in particular Western Siberia, heavy rains are frequent, so much so that a month's worth of rain falls in a day. Naturally, the question arises: is watering necessary at all? Can't a tomato grow on its own? The answer is: growing tomatoes without watering is quite possible if the climate of the region allows for frequent weather changes.

Usually this climate is in central Russia. The root system of tomatoes is very powerful and is capable of extracting moisture from the very depths. If the tomato grows in an arid region, watering is indispensable. To retain moisture in the soil longer, mulching is used. More about her a little later.

Growing seedlings

Since the tomato is propagated by seeds, in order for it to turn into a full-fledged plant, the seedling method is used. You can grow seedlings yourself or purchase them at the market. The main thing is to carefully examine the product for various diseases. The leaves should not be yellow or spotted, and the root should not be dry.

Before planting seedlings, the seeds must be prepared, the soil and planting containers must be disinfected. The timing of planting seeds depends on the variety and region of residence. You can prepare soil for tomatoes yourself or purchase it from a farm store. Purchased soil has many advantages:

It has already been disinfected;
No need to apply fertilizer.

In order for the soil to be better distributed in the box, it is steamed. To do this, place the soil in a bucket, pour boiling water over it, cover with a lid and allow to cool.

Sowing time for seedlings depending on the region

Each gardener calculates these terms independently and knows how to grow tomatoes. The standard period for sowing seeds for seedlings is from the end of March to the end of April. It all depends on the variety of tomatoes: ultra-early ones are planted in April, early ones - in mid-April; mid-season - at the end of March; middle and late - in mid-March. Planting seeds for seedlings occurs approximately 2 months before the intended planting in the ground.

Residents of the Middle Zone often plant ultra-early and early varieties of tomatoes, as they bear fruit faster. It is not recommended to grow late varieties of tomatoes in this region, as they will not have time to ripen and produce a harvest.

Preparing for landing

It’s not enough to grow seedlings. Equally important is preliminary soil preparation for tomatoes. It is also important to prepare the seating area. Firstly, it should be well lit, but in moderation. Despite the fact that tomatoes love light, they do not tolerate direct rays of the sun well. The ideal place for future bushes would be a place next to a greenhouse or tree.

If you dig up and enrich the soil with fertilizers in the fall, the tomatoes will grow well, practically without diseases, and will give a good harvest. If the acidity level in the soil is elevated, the tomatoes will soon wilt and become diseased. But how do you know the acid level in the soil? It’s very simple: buy a special test. For tomatoes, the optimal level is 6-7. And to reduce the acid level, lime is used. For one sq. a meter takes half a kilogram.

In order to prevent most diseases, rye or mustard is planted in the soil, and a solution of copper sulfate is also poured. The beds for tomatoes themselves are formed about a week before planting.

Varieties of planting

In total, there are 3 types of landing. There are different types of landing:

Square-nested;
Tape-nested;
Tape.

Square nest planting

Planting tomatoes according to the square-cluster pattern is carried out like a square. Its size must be at least 80*80. Approximately 3 plants are planted in the prepared square, with a distance of 50 cm from each other. The distance between each square should be approximately 80 cm.

Tape-nest planting

This variety is usually used when planting potatoes, but can also be used for tall types of tomatoes. To do this, long trenches are dug in the soil, with the same width and depth of at least 30 cm. Young seedlings are planted on both sides with a distance of 40 cm. The distance between the trenches is up to one and a half meters.

Tape

The last landing scheme is slightly similar to the previous one. Here, too, trenches are dug, but with a smaller distance - about 80 cm. Shallow holes are dug in the trenches.

Seed preparation

Before planting seeds, many carry out pre-sowing preparation. It includes two stages:

Warming up;
Disinfection.

At the first stage, the planting material is soaked for 20 minutes in a thermos with hot water. Then they cool quickly so that the heat stops. The benefit of this procedure is not only to prevent infection by pathogens, but also to accelerate seed growth. At the second stage, the seeds are soaked for several minutes in aloe juice or a special preparation or potassium permanganate. Some people use other methods:

Saline solution to identify unsuitable seeds;
Seed stimulation;
Soak;
Germination on a saucer or cotton pad.

Sowing

The process of sowing seeds is simple: fill the planting container with moist substrate and compact the soil. The landing itself consists of the following stages:

Planting depth - 1 cm, distance between seeds no more than 2 cm;
Mandatory leveling of the soil after sowing;
Irrigation from a spray bottle;
Covering with glass or regular film to create a greenhouse effect;
Cleaning in a warm place, with a maximum temperature of 25 degrees.

Picking

Picking is planting seedlings in separate containers. It is needed so that the seedlings become more independent and receive more light and freedom. It is carried out when the seedling has formed a pair of true leaves. Before planting in a separate container, it is disinfected.

The seedling is carefully removed with a lump of earth or new soil is added. Make a small hole in the soil and plant a seedling there, then water it a little. Then the container with the sprout is taken for a couple of days to a place protected from direct sunlight. After the required time has passed, the seedlings are brought out into the light.

Care

Sometimes it’s amazing to watch how a tomato grows: first it’s a small seed, then it’s a tiny sprout, which eventually turns into a small plant. Caring for seedlings includes moderate watering, moistening with a spray bottle; ventilation; a couple of fertilizing with phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen; preventive examinations for diseases; regular loosening of the soil after watering.

Hardening

Many people consider this procedure optional, but it is very important. Without it, plants will adapt poorly and grow more slowly. Hardening helps the seedling to quickly get used to environmental conditions. What you need to do for hardening: take the seedlings out into the fresh air every day. Every day the time the seedlings spend in the air increases. The duration of hardening is two weeks before planting in a permanent place.

Transplantation to a permanent place

Seedlings are transplanted to a permanent location only when the soil has warmed to the optimum temperature, approximately 15 degrees. For a greenhouse, the temperature is approximately 10 degrees. In addition, the beds are also dug up and the necessary fertilizers are applied: bird guano and ammonium sulfate. What kind of soil do tomatoes like? Of course, warm and non-sour. To reduce the acid level, add lime or sprinkle wood ash. But what does the planting process itself include?

The seedling is carefully removed from the temporary container, being careful not to damage the roots and soil;
Place in the center of the hole so that the lower leaves are located just above the edge;
The hole is lightly sprinkled with earth and the soil is compacted;
Watered.

If some seedlings are too tall or elongated, they are planted with a slight slope of the stem.

Preparing the beds

When planting tomatoes in open ground, all conditions must be met:

The soil has been pre-prepared: disinfected, optimal acidity level, fertilizers applied;
The beds are pre-dug and well watered;
The seedlings are hardened.

For the beds, choose only well-hardened and mature seedlings, 60-65 days old. This usually happens in early May, and planting is done early in the morning, before the sun begins to actively fry. The distance between plants depends on the variety, or rather, on the type of bush: determinate or indeterminate. Tall plants are planted at a distance of 60 cm, low ones - at 40 cm. Do not forget to water the soil well before planting the seedlings.

Planting scheme

The density and distance between seedlings depends on the variety and type of bush. The standard landing scheme looks like this:

Determinate - 40*50;
Average height - 50*60;
Indeterminate - 60*70.

Planting process

Planting tomatoes in open ground includes the following points:

A suitable area has been selected: well ventilated and sunny;
The seedlings have reached the optimal age;
Plant seedlings when the first cluster of flowers appears;
The holes are watered;
Planting with deepening or tilting (if the seedlings are stretched);
After planting, the seedlings are watered again and sprinkled with dry soil.

When to plant tomatoes for seedlings

Tomato seedlings are ready for transplanting into beds 55–65 days after the seeds sprout. The specific time is determined taking into account two factors - the climate in the region and growing conditions. If tomatoes are cultivated in open ground in a temperate climate, they are planted for seedlings in mid-March. In the southern regions you can do this at the end of February. And in “risky farming zones”, where frosts at the end of spring are not something out of the ordinary, wait until the last ten days of March or the first days of April. The timing of planting seedlings for greenhouse tomatoes is shifted back by 12–20 days.

The optimal timing for planting tomato seedlings in the ground is very important - problems with adaptation arise both if you rush and if you wait too long

Caring for tomatoes in open ground

If you care for it correctly and comprehensively, then tomatoes grow well in the garden.

Caring for tomatoes in open ground includes the following:

Periodic uniform watering;
Regular loosening of the soil after each watering;
Application of mulch;
Application of fertilizing for more active growth and fruiting;
Preventive measures to prevent diseases and pests.

The bush needs to be looked after not only during active growth, but also during flowering. There is a little secret on how to make the plant set fruit faster. To do this, the inflorescences are sprayed with a solution of boric acid from a spray bottle.

Bush formation

For open ground, a plant with 1 stem is usually formed. Tomatoes grow as usual, this does not affect the yield. But in a greenhouse the yield is lower, so the young bush is formed into 3 stems. Productivity in greenhouse conditions will be higher. Too many stepsons reduce the yield and size of the fruit.

Stepsoning

Early ripening varieties do not require pinching, as they have time to quickly grow and produce a harvest. But varieties with medium and late ripening period need to periodically break out shoots - stepchildren. Otherwise, each new shoot that appears will form a new stem, and the plant will not have time to set fruit. Typically, pinching is carried out in the early stages of the growing season, early in the morning. They are either broken out or cut off at a centimeter distance from the main stem.

Tying tomatoes

If the variety description indicates that this species is productive, then tying is mandatory. Without it, the fruit cluster tends to the ground, the fruits become dirty and begin to rot. The gartering begins immediately after planting the seedlings in the ground. A trellis or wooden peg is used for support, and strips of fabric, twine or rope are used for garter. The plant is not tied very tightly so as not to damage the stem. As a rule, determinate varieties of tomatoes do not require staking.

Watering

As soon as about two weeks have passed after planting, begin watering. It is not recommended to immediately water newly planted seedlings, otherwise the root will not be well established in the ground and will not be able to adapt. At least 5 liters of water are added to each bush, since the roots of tomatoes are very powerful.

When watering, do not touch the greens under any circumstances, otherwise burns will appear on the leaves. Use a proven method: point (simple watering can). The water should be warm. For this purpose, many gardeners use a tank in which the water settles during the day.

The optimal time for watering is early morning or evening, after the sun has set. During active growth, plants gain strength and form greenery and ovaries. But the frequency of watering should be no more than once a week. Watering too frequently will cause the soil to become waterlogged, which will cause late blight infection and root rot.

Feeding

How to grow tomatoes without special fertilizers? Even people treat themselves to all sorts of goodies. And for tomatoes, feeding is vital. Without it, the crop will get sick, and the taste and quality of the fruit will deteriorate. Feed the plant throughout the entire time. When the bush is actively developing, nitrogen is added. During the formation of fruit ovaries - potassium and phosphorus. Phosphorus strengthens the roots, and potassium strengthens the immune system. Feeding stages:

The first is a couple of weeks after planting the seedlings in the ground. What is used: bird guano, mullein, wood ash;
The second - a decade after the second fruit cluster blooms. What is used: liquid organic matter and a complex of minerals;
The third is when the first berries begin to ripen. Fertilizers are the same, the dosage is higher;
The last one is after two weeks have passed since the third.

Mulching

Not all gardeners use this procedure. But it not only helps to retain moisture in the roots, but also prevents overheating of the soil. If there is mulch on the bed, then loosening is not required. For mulch, peat, dry straw, humus, and non-woven material are used. But they do not cover for the entire period, but periodically remove and renew the layer, and also inspect for the presence of pests.

Pollination

Tomatoes are a self-pollinating crop. But insects provide significant assistance: wasps, bees, bumblebees. Sometimes, in order to attract beneficial insects to the site, gardeners plant honey plants: mint, lemon balm, mustard, basil. And to speed up the pollination process, do the following:

Shake the bush a little;
Lightly tap the flower brush and then spray with warm water.

Graft

This method is used to increase productivity. Two plants are used: the rootstock (main) and the scion (additional).

Vaccination takes place in several stages:

4-5 seeds are sown in a glass with nutritious soil;
A week after the emergence of seedlings, the two strongest plants are selected, and the rest are either cut or pinched;
Grafting begins when the stems have reached a height of several cm;
The plant with a thicker stem serves as a rootstock. Small cuts are made on the stems, no more than 15-20 mm long, with a diameter of no more than half the diameter of the stem. The sections are not combined, but tightly wrapped with a special tape;
After this, the glass with the seedlings is placed in a place protected from the sun for several days. Once the due date has passed, the seedlings are returned to their permanent place;
The stems will grow together in a couple of weeks. As soon as this has happened, the top of the rootstock is cut off from the plant above the grafting site.

Picking

If you do not pick in time, the plant will simply suffocate in the container, it will not have enough space, the roots will become weak and the future bush will develop poorly in the soil. What grown plants look like without picking: like people in a cramped elevator who lack air and space. The stems become weak and the roots become thinner. Therefore, picking is mandatory. But everything needs to be done on time.

The picking procedure begins when the plant has grown a little and has formed two or three leaves. You can replant it together with a lump of earth from the box or fill it with new soil (after filling it with turf), making a small depression. Next, moisten and compact the planting soil. The containers can also be left in the boxes, only by arranging the seedlings more freely.

Removing leaves and ovaries

This method is needed so that the tomatoes ripen faster. The plant will not waste its energy and substances on the growth of greenery, but will give it to pouring berries. But you shouldn’t cut off all the foliage at once. No more than one leaf is removed per day, up to the first flower cluster. This procedure is necessary and has practical benefits, because after it the plant will be able to breathe normally. The ovaries are removed so that the fruits are larger and juicier.

How to save tomatoes from frost

The weather is a very unpredictable lady. It often happens that as soon as warm weather sets in, frost sets in or it even snows. This weather often occurs in late May and early June. In this case, there is a high risk of plant death.

To prevent this, the plants are covered with a special material, stretching them over metal or plastic arches. To be sure, so that the film does not fly away, it is pressed down with bricks. As soon as the daytime temperature reaches above 10 degrees and there is no wind, the greenhouse is opened to allow the plants to breathe.

Pruning tomatoes

This procedure is necessary in order to direct all the beneficial substances to the ripening of the fruit. All lower leaves of plants are removed, up to the first flower cluster. The pruning procedure follows the following rules:

Tools (garden shears, knife or pruning shears) must be disinfected;
If you don't want to use cutting tools, pull out the leaves yourself by grasping the petiole tightly at the base and yanking sharply. Do not pull the petiole down, otherwise you will damage its base, and infection will penetrate through the resulting wound;
Do not prune immediately after planting in the ground. We must wait until the plants adapt. The adaptation process takes up to two weeks;
Pruning is carried out only in the morning, before the active sun begins;
The frequency of pruning is once a week. The number of leaves at a time is no more than 2-3.

Step-by-step care from A to Z

Frost protection

Early varieties have a risk of death in frost at + 2 to -1 degrees . Protection - film shelter or caps made of paper, fabric, film, boxes, buckets. Low-growing ones are hilled up before freezing, then dug up.

Watering

Water once a week, generously, at the root, do not wet the tops. Undesirable - watering from a watering can and hose:

with a lack of moisture - crown rot;
in excess - gray rot and late blight.

After planting, do not water for 10-15 days. During growth and the appearance of the ovary, increase watering and moisturize with mulching. Humidity changes cause fruit growth to stop and cracking.

We invite you to watch a video about watering tomatoes:

Top dressing

To calculate nutrition, know the acidity level. First feeding 10 days after planting:

per 1 m2: 6 g of urea;
25 g double superphosphate;
10 g potassium salt.

Feed every 7-15 days.

Lack of nitrogen stops growth, leaves and stems are pale green, turn yellow and fall off the lower part of the stem.
A lack of phosphorus impairs the absorption of nitrogen, growth stops, the stem and petioles turn blue, and the leaves turn gray.
From a lack of potassium, yellow-brown spots appear on the edges of the leaves, the edges curl, and brown spots appear on the fruits.

At the beginning of growth, use cow manure or bird droppings in solution. From the infusion of herbs - fertilize in a barrel, the herbs are filled with water and closed loosely. After two weeks, dilute with water 1:10, watering 5 liters. per bush every 7 – 14 days. Foliar feeding with liquid fertilizers or herbal infusion, sprayed in the evening. How many times to process? Combine with treatment against diseases, 2 – 3 times a season.

Tillage

After watering, they are loosened, destroying the crust and destroying weeds. Pulling out weeds (carriers of diseases and pests) takes away food.

Leave the weeded ones between the rows and on the beds, for mulching and as a source of carbon dioxide (necessary for growth). Mulch:

compost;
humus;
dark spunbond.

Hilling can be omitted ; expert opinions are divided. The meaning of hilling is the growth of additional roots.

Formation

To speed up ripening, they form: remove the leaves, shoot, thin out the ovary and pinch.

On a bush of two to three stems, fruits set faster; there is no need to remove side shoots.

Pest and disease control

One of the important conditions is the destruction of weeds . To combat whiteflies: hang yellow squares coated with epoxy glue and oil.

Spider mites - spraying with onion peel infusion. Scoop - spray with insecticides. Against mole crickets - crushed eggshells with vegetable oil.

Against diseases:

black leg - potassium permanganate;
apical, gray and white rot , streak, bacterial cancer, spotting - phytosporin;
blight - garlic infusion, salt solution.

The main mistakes when growing tomatoes

This is mainly the sin of novice gardeners. They do not yet know many secrets, so the plant may not live up to their expectations. The most common mistakes:

Seeds for seedlings are sown at the wrong time;
Growing a variety intended for a greenhouse in the ground;
The gardener purchased the seedlings already with flower stalks. This is fraught with slow rooting and fruit formation;
Frequent watering;
Overfeeding, especially with nitrogen: this affects the taste;
Planting in the ground ahead of schedule: the seedlings freeze and die.

Common mistakes

Crop rotation violation.
Poor insolation.
Cold ground.
Lack or excess of moisture.
Untimely watering.
Late stepsoning.
Neglect of formation.
Overfeeding leaves and shoots to the detriment of fruiting.
Untimely prevention of diseases and destruction of pests.
Heavy waterproof soil.
Planting without taking into account possible frosts.
Excessive density of crops.
Lack or excess of fertilizing.
Late pick.
Neglect of hardening.
Overgrown seedlings.

Tomatoes are in demand all year round. Indispensable in cooking. Used in dietetics and medicine due to the presence of monose, organic acids, pectin, vitamins and minerals, carotene, provitamin D, etc. The rarest lycopene prevents DNA mutations and the growth of cancer cells. Proper planting is a necessary condition for obtaining a harvest . Taking into account the rules of agricultural technology, even an amateur can cope. The reward is productive beds and the joy of long-awaited success. Therefore, it is important to know how to properly plant and care for tomatoes.

Diseases and pests

Like any plant, the tomato periodically suffers from diseases and harmful insects. Diseases affect everything: roots, stems, and fruits. Pests most often eat tops, sometimes fruits.

Types of diseases

There are two types of nightshade diseases: fungus and virus. The difficulty with the latter is that they cannot be treated. The only thing left to do is destroy the affected bushes.

Fungal diseases

These diseases affect either the fruits or the tops. Types of fungal diseases:

Late blight;
"Blackleg";
Powdery mildew;
Gray and apical rot.

Viral diseases

Viral diseases are much more dangerous and also affect neighboring plants.

The most common of them:

Mosaic;
Stolbur;
Aspermia and others.

Types of pests

An equally serious problem is pest infestation. Very often they occur when there is an abundance of weeds in the beds. The most common pests of tomatoes:

Colorado potato beetle , which lays countless eggs, from which very voracious larvae hatch. Larvae and beetles eat the tops;
Aphids: eats tops;
Armyworm caterpillars: eat fruit;
Mole cricket: a voracious insect that eats roots and seedlings. Capable of destroying up to 30% of seedlings;
Wireworms: click beetle larvae that eat roots and stems;
Root-knot nematode: A very small roundworm that burrows into leaf hairs and roots. Due to his “tricks,” the plant’s nutrition is disrupted.

Disease and pest control

If the plant is sick, it is treated with special fungicides, the affected parts are removed and burned. If the entire plant is affected, it is eliminated. Pests are a little easier. As a rule, infusions with a pungent odor or special preparations are used to repel them.

Mole cricket: vinegar and red pepper, as well as special shallow poisonous baits;
Wireworm: prevention will help - alkalization of acidic soils and planting white mustard;
Colorado potato beetle: onion infusion and Bordeaux mixture, “Taboo” preparation, collecting beetles and larvae by hand;
Armyworm caterpillars: timely weeding and application of poison a couple of weeks after planting the seedlings;
Aphids: bait with glue, a solution of laundry soap and spraying with an insecticide once every couple of weeks;
Nematode: poison will not help. The only way out is to disinfect the soil and garden tools.

Disease Prevention

To protect the plant, it is not enough to choose a variety that has good immunity. It is better to protect the soil in a timely manner. For this purpose, Bacillus subtilis and Trichoderma are used. These elements are contained in Fitosporin. These preparations are poured into the garden bed before planting. Pests are perfectly repelled by infusion of marigold flowers or planting them between tomatoes. Also, before planting, autumn digging is carried out in advance: the soil is loosened, removing plant debris and insects that have hibernated there.

For example, often in the spring, when planting potatoes or tomatoes, when digging, you can see sleeping Colorado potato beetles. Namely, they are the most important pests of nightshades. A very important nuance in prevention is to observe crop rotation. Many people ignore it, and then the plant quickly becomes infected with late blight.

The rule of crop rotation is that plants cannot be planted in the same place several times in a row. While the previous plants are in the soil, infections accumulate. It is foolish to think that autumn and winter frosts will destroy a fungus or virus. Even mold lives for billions of years in any conditions.

Predecessors and neighbors of tomatoes

The first step is to choose a bright corner for planting tomatoes. Any land will not be suitable for them, so you need to decide where you can plant tomatoes. It is important to know the predecessors and identify the neighbors of the tomatoes.

Why do you need to know about predecessors? First of all, this is necessary so that future plants feel comfortable in such soil. Predecessors are plants that grew here last season. Some crops are incompatible, which can have a detrimental effect on the harvest. Therefore, we will analyze the good and bad predecessors for tomatoes. Good predecessors include : beets, carrots, cucumbers, onions, beans, peas, greens, zucchini, corn, green manure. Harmful precursors are : potatoes, cabbage, eggplant, peppers.

White mustard. Excellent green manure before planting tomatoes

The right proximity can also affect the harvest. Good neighbors of tomatoes will be: asparagus, celery, garlic, parsley, peas, radishes, radishes, currants and gooseberries. For example, it will be useful to alternate tomato beds with garlic beds.

Good predecessors	Unwanted Precursors	Good neighbors	Unwanted neighbors
beets, carrots, cucumbers, onions, beans, peas, greens, zucchini, corn, green manure	potatoes, cabbage, eggplant, pepper	carrots, asparagus, lettuce, celery, garlic, onion, parsley, peas, radish, radish, currants, gooseberries	potatoes, cucumbers, cabbage, dill, fennel, broccoli, cauliflower, eggplant, pepper

Subtleties of cleaning

It would seem that it could be simpler: pick the fruit and that’s it. But picking berries has its own nuances:

Buds and flower stalks are removed several weeks before the end of harvest. This is necessary so that the remaining fruits ripen faster;
Ugly fruits are removed first. They are of no benefit, and perhaps an infection is brewing in them;
Harvesting is carried out until the night temperature drops below 8 degrees Celsius. If the temperature is low, the crop will freeze and die.

How to plant tomatoes in a greenhouse?

Tomatoes are a heat-loving crop; they require a temperature of at least 15 degrees to grow. As soon as the desired temperature is reached in the greenhouse and the soil is sufficiently warmed, the seedlings can be planted.

Young tomatoes are protected from drafts and sudden temperature changes, so you don’t have to worry about safety.

Weed killer Tornado: detailed instructions for using the herbicide, photos, diagrams, description
Feeding tomatoes after planting in the greenhouse: step-by-step instructions, with photos and descriptions
Cucumber seedlings - how to properly prepare soil for seedlings and sow cucumbers at home

It must be remembered that natural moisture does not enter the greenhouse; for normal growth and development of plants, it is necessary to properly organize watering.