How to cover an apple tree for the winter: features of insulation of young and adult plants

Even in the gardens of the southern regions, apple trees are prepared for winter, otherwise there will not be a good harvest for the next years. As for the farms of the Middle Zone, the Urals and Siberia, here the trees need to not only be prepared for wintering, but also insulated.

We'll tell you what to do with apple trees in the fall so that they overwinter well. We will provide information on the nuances of preparation in different regions of the country. Let's talk about insulating young trees where it is extremely important.

Cleaning the apple orchard

After the harvest has been harvested and the leaves have fallen, you can begin cleaning the garden. You can’t delay this: microorganisms and pests accumulate in plant debris, you need to rid the garden of them as soon as possible.

During harvesting, fallen leaves and branches are removed, and weeds are mowed. All this must be burned outside the garden. Another option is to treat it with fungicide solutions and put it in a composter to prepare biofertilizer. Unprocessed organic matter from the orchard cannot be added to compost.

If the garden is kept fallow, be sure to dig up the tree trunk circle. This is necessary to get rid of pest larvae. The digging depth is insignificant, up to 15 cm. With this approach, the larvae hidden in the ground will die at the first frost.

When digging up the tree trunk, try not to damage the roots.

Feeding and fertilizer

To obtain a rich and stable harvest, fertilizing apple trees for the winter should be on the list of main tasks. Otherwise, a lack of vitamins and microelements will delay fruiting time.

When applying fertilizer, it is worth monitoring the condition of the adjacent soil. Autumn feeding of apple trees before winter can improve their frost resistance.

Fertilizers and top dressing can be varied, so the gardener makes the final choice based on his experience and the condition of the apple tree.

Organic

Organic fertilizer in the form of rotted manure is excellent for strengthening young trees. Without harm to the roots, such fertilizing can be done no more than once a month.

Dry straw, humus or leaves perform a similar function. By placing them around the trunk of the seedling, you will saturate the soil with micronutrients and prevent the root system from drying out.

Root fertilizer

Good yields can be obtained by using compost from food waste, weeds and rotten vegetables. Organic fertilizers saturate the roots with microelements, without which full growth is impossible.

Peat

Peat is mixed with manure, sawdust and rotted grass. The components are covered with branches and left for a year. After waiting the required time, you get a ready-to-use fertilizer, ideal for feeding young apple trees. It is used by mixing it with the soil around the tree.

Preparing apple and pear trees for winter allows for feeding from peat even with the onset of frost.

Limestone

Lime fertilizer is the best option in the presence of acidic soil. Dolomite flour and cement dust are suitable for this. They increase the fertility of the soil and its water permeability. This feeding is carried out once every few years.

Phosphorus fertilizers

Phosphorus is of great importance in the plant world. For safe use, it is worth considering some of the nuances of the substance: 60 g of phosphorus is distributed in an even layer around the perimeter of the trunk at a distance of 20 cm from it. For poor soil, the fertilizer should be supplemented by watering with slurry. Fertilizing with potassium monophosphate is carried out by spraying. The less precipitation, the weaker the concentration of the solution should be.

Autumn feeding of apple trees

After harvesting, the tree is severely depleted and will not be able to fully prepare for the upcoming winter without the help of a gardener. Help is especially relevant for young trees planted 3-4 years ago.

In autumn, potassium and phosphorus are important for apple trees. Therefore, superphosphate or potassium sulfate is added. Ready-made mineral complexes are also suitable; in stores they are often sold under the name “autumn fertilizer”. It is better to apply the preparations in liquid form, they are quickly absorbed by the trees; the garden itself must be watered first. Be sure to follow the instructions for use.

In autumn, apple trees are fertilized approximately 2-3 weeks before frost.

Harvesting and storing apples for the winter

There are many varieties of apple trees, each of which is characterized by its own timing of fruit ripening. Accordingly, the harvest of ripe apples can be harvested from August to mid-October.

The following signs indicate fruit ripening:

• the peel of the fruit acquires the characteristic color indicated in the description of the particular variety;
• the pulp becomes as juicy and soft as possible, and its taste corresponds to the characteristics of ripe fruits of this variety;
• some fruits begin to fall to the ground - but they should not show signs of rot or signs of pest damage.

Important! If there is a lack of moisture in the soil, 3 weeks before the planned harvest, water-recharging irrigation is carried out - about 6 buckets of water are poured under each adult apple tree.

The timing of the start of preparing a tree for winter largely depends on the weather conditions and climate characteristics of a particular region. For example, in the Moscow region, winter comes relatively early, so trees need to be prepared for the onset of cold weather already in September. The most important rule is to complete all necessary activities before the first frost occurs.

Video: how to properly prepare fruit trees for winter

The basic rules for collecting and storing ripe apples are listed below:

1. The fruits are removed from the tree in dry and sunny weather - in such conditions they do not absorb moisture from the air, and their peel remains elastic longer.
2. It is recommended to pick fruits in a slightly unripe state - ripe pulp is looser and therefore has a worse shelf life.
3. The fruits are removed from the tree by hand and then carefully placed in wooden or plastic containers.
4. You should not throw the fruits or damage the integrity of their peel - such apples will quickly deteriorate and become unsuitable for storage.
5. It is recommended to collect fruits together with the stalk - to separate it from the tree, carefully turn the apple clockwise, holding it by the tail.
6. Partially spoiled fruits that have fallen to the ground are immediately processed into jam or juice, and only apples of the correct shape without damage are selected for storage.
7. To increase the shelf life of fruits, each of them is wrapped in paper and placed in containers with the stalks facing up.
8. The shelf life of the harvest depends on the characteristics of the particular variety, but apples last the longest in a dark and cool basement with good ventilation or in the refrigerator.

Find out more about how long to keep apples fresh for the winter at home.

Proper care of an apple tree in the fall helps keep it healthy and increase crop yield. Using the recommendations listed in our article, you can prepare the tree for the winter, and also help it regain its strength until next spring - then it will definitely grow well and bear fruit regularly.

Moisture-charging watering for apple trees

In winter, roots are damaged the most. To avoid this, water-recharging (moisture-recharging) irrigation is practiced in gardening. Its essence lies in one-time abundant watering of trees so that the soil becomes moist to a great depth. As a result, frost cannot “get” to the roots, and the tree itself receives a sufficient amount of moisture and will suffer less during winter thaws.

Moisture-charging watering is done after the leaves have completely fallen, so as not to stimulate the growth of branches. Water is poured not under the trunk, but along the projection of the crown; for this purpose, a groove or embankment is made around the entire circumference.

The volume of water depends on the age of the apple tree, details in the table.

Moisture-charging irrigation is carried out in several stages, over 2-3 days, so that the water moisturizes the soil in the tree trunk circle and does not spread throughout the garden. This measure is necessary even in rainy autumn: the amount of rain is not enough to create the necessary conditions in the soil, but the watering rate is reduced by 10–20 liters.

In areas with clay soil, it is necessary to reduce the volume of water by 1.5–2 times so as not to cause root rot.

Necessary activities

Autumn care for an apple tree includes standard agrotechnical measures - watering, fertilizing, pruning, keeping the tree trunk clean, and preventive spraying. But there is also the need to protect the tree from frost and rodents.

Cleaning the trunk circle

After harvesting the apples, you need to clean the tree trunk area. The soil is weeded, all plant debris is raked up - dry leaves, carrion, broken branches. Putting it all into compost is a bad idea. The garbage needs to be burned. This is a very suitable place for overwintering pathogens, eggs, larvae and adult pests.

Apples and other plant debris that have fallen from a tree are a “home” for many pests

Cleared of debris, it is loosened to a depth of 10 cm and covered with a layer of fresh mulch up to 5 cm thick. Any material is suitable for this, with the exception of fresh sawdust and straw, which acidify the soil, in which mice like to live. Mulching effectively prevents further weed growth and prevents water from quickly evaporating from the soil. A similar result will be achieved by sowing the tree trunk circle with green manure. This is also a comprehensive feeding: after 6–8 weeks, the greens need to be mowed and incorporated into the soil.

Mulching is a very useful agrotechnical measure for any fruit tree; it is recommended to update the mulch layer throughout the season

Autumn watering

The apple tree uses the water “pulled” from the soil in spring and summer for the development of shoots, growth buds and ripening of fruits. After harvesting, the tree “refocuses” on developing roots. Accordingly, if the soil is dry in the fall, the process will be greatly slowed down. And this, in turn, will negatively affect the harvest next season.

If the apple tree does not have enough water in the soil in the fall, you may not expect a bountiful harvest next year.

The apple tree is watered for the first time a week and a half after the last fruits are harvested. Water consumption is about 30 l/m² of the tree trunk circle. The soil should be saturated with it about a meter deep. In the south, for early and mid-season varieties, if the weather is dry and warm in September, the same watering is repeated in the middle of this month.

It is better to water the apple tree not at the root, but in the annular groove around the trunk - thin absorbent roots are located mainly along the periphery of the crown

About a month before the first cold weather, abundant moisture-recharging irrigation is carried out. The rate is increased to 40–45 l/m², wetting the substrate by 1.5 m or even more. It can only be abandoned if there has been heavy rainfall during the fall. Soil saturated with water freezes less than dry soil.

Preparing the apple tree trunk

In the fall, it is important to properly treat the trunk and skeletal branches, otherwise part of the tree may dry out in the spring. Treatment consists of removing moss and lichen, as well as processing hollows formed over the summer. If hunting belts were used, they are removed and burned.

Further sequence of work:

1. Cover the ground near the trunk with film or cloth to prevent debris from falling to the ground.
2. Use a watering can to moisten the bark generously with water at room temperature. Dry bark cannot be peeled: it can be easily damaged.
3. Clear the branches and trunk of mosses and lichens. It is better to work with a wooden or plastic scraper; you can buy one at a gardening store.
4. Immediately lubricate accidentally damaged bark with regular green paint; it will protect the tree from infection.
5. Places treated with green paint should be additionally protected with garden varnish.

After finishing the work, the film is carefully collected and taken outside the dacha, where it is burned. Pest larvae and pathogenic bacteria can hide in the cleaning waste, which is why they are burned outside the garden.

If there are a lot of mosses and lichens and there is a risk of damaging the bark, treat the trunk and branches with a solution of iron sulfate 250 g/10 l. Mosses and lichens that die after spraying will be easier to remove. After cleaning the bark, spray the tree well with a 1% solution of copper sulfate.

Existing hollows are carefully cleaned down to healthy wood. Next, the entire surface is treated with a 1–3% solution of copper sulfate or a dark red solution of potassium permanganate. The prepared hollow is sealed with plaster, cement mortar or foam. The choice of material depends on the size and nature of the hollow.

You should not leave the hollow for the winter, otherwise part of the tree may die.

Autumn work

The complex of autumn work includes getting rid of pests, watering, removing leaves, spraying, mulching, insulating and pruning branches. Only if these rules are followed will apple trees growing in the Moscow region successfully survive the cold season.

Pruning for winter

Before the frost arrives, it is time to prune the branches and form the crown.
This time is characterized by a stop in the movement of juices. It is recommended to remove dry branches completely. And living ones must be cut back by a third, preventing the crown from thickening. The cut must be made at an acute angle of approximately 400. For the procedure, sharpened instruments that have been disinfected should be prepared in advance. Secateurs and hacksaws will do this job perfectly. Be sure to cover the cut area with garden varnish, and cover the top with oil paint. All damaged branches are cut down to the trunk. The optimal height of apple trees is 3 m. In this case, the tree must be given the shape of a bush.

Collection of leaves

Cleaning the root zone is very important for the health of apple trees. When preparing for wintering, you should collect all fallen leaves at a distance of at least 3 meters from the crown of the tree. At the same time, spoiled fruits are removed and weeds are weeded. Although under normal conditions foliage acts as insulation and feeds the root system, in the case of garden trees it is more likely to cause harm than benefit. After all, when spring comes, the active development and reproduction of fungal spores will begin in the scorched biomaterial.

Once the leaves fall, you should immediately begin cleaning. If the trees have not been attacked by insect pests or infected with various diseases all season, then the collected leaves can be placed in a compost heap, which will mature for 3 years. By this point, all spores that pose a danger will have died. If the tree was sick in the summer, then it is better to burn the foliage.

Apple tree processing

Preparing apple trees for wintering includes treating the bark.
After all, many pathogens prefer to hide in the old covering of the trunks. Cleaning will make a significant difference to the health of your garden. To do this you need:

• spread paper or fabric under the wood being processed;
• Carefully remove the formed mosses and lichens using garden tools;
• Treat the damaged areas with garden varnish and apply oil paint on top.

After stripping, the entire trunk and branches are treated with a solution of ferrous sulfate, which can be replaced with copper sulfate in the same concentration.

Treatment of branches and root circle with urea is carried out after the end of leaf fall and 14 days before the onset of frost. Although this drug is a nitrogen-containing feed, it will not cause harm under such conditions.

Next, you should whitewash the trunks with slaked lime, which will protect the tree bark from aggressive sunlight that causes burns. It will also prevent it from cracking in frosty weather. For 10 liters of water you will need 3 kg of fluff, 500 g of medium acid potassium and 300 ml of wood glue.

When preparing young apple trees for winter, the fluff is replaced with chalk, and the glue is compensated with milk. Whitewashing is carried out in dry weather from the bottom up to the first fork of the branches.

Digging

The next agrotechnical measure is considered to be a thorough digging of the tree trunk circle. After all, it is in the upper layers of the soil that the larvae of various pests reside for the winter. And if you leave the soil untouched, then the next season will have to begin with the fight against these uninvited guests.

The digging depth should not be more than 15 cm. Otherwise, you can accidentally damage the root system. Outside the crown, dig using the bayonet of a shovel.

Watering

With the end of summer, seasonal watering of apple trees stops.
Soon the process of active shedding of leaves begins and the growth of young shoots slows down significantly. Before the onset of frost in October, the last spill of soil from the root system is carried out, which is also part of the complex of agrotechnical measures to prepare for the cold. A small depression around the roots is completely filled with water. After complete absorption, the procedure is repeated. Thus, 200 liters of water should be poured onto one adult apple tree. Well-moistened soil will create favorable conditions for wintering. However, if the summer was marked by the rainy season, autumn watering is not recommended.

Fertilizing the apple tree

Autumn feeding of apple trees goes well with their watering. In this case, the applied fertilizers are guaranteed to reach the root system. Fruit trees need to be fed with potassium and phosphorus in the fall. For this, 1 tbsp. l. potassium sulfate and 2 tbsp. l. concentrated phosphorus fertilizer is dissolved in 10 liters of water. If the apple tree is younger than 10 years old, then one bucket per square meter will be enough. For older trees, it is recommended to double the dose.

When feeding in autumn, the use of nitrogen fertilizers is unacceptable. They will lead to increased growth of shoots before cold weather and weaken the tree.

Mulching

Another way to guarantee successful wintering of apple trees in the Moscow region is considered to be mulching the root circle. The layer of material used must be at least 5 cm.

It is recommended to use the following as mulch for apple trees:

• rotted manure;
• compost;
• peat;

• sawdust;
• bark;
• pine needles

Don't forget that sawdust and peat significantly increase the pH level of the soil. Therefore, it is better to take a black product, it is less acidic than brown.

Warming an apple tree for the winter

Preparing an apple tree for winter cannot be considered completely complete without insulating its trunk. The following actions must be taken:

• loosen the soil around the trunk;
• perform mulching.
• hill up young trees (the height of the hill should be 30 cm);
• wrap the trunk with insulating material and tie it with twine or soft braided wire;
• Snow has excellent insulating properties; it should be heaped onto a pile and trampled around. This will also help protect the bark from mouse attack.

Warming seedlings for the winter

Apple tree seedlings require closer attention in the warm season and significant insulation before the arrival of cold weather. You can insulate first-year children with the following materials:

• sackcloth;
• woven material;
• dry reeds;
• spruce forest;
• old stockings;

• roofing felt;
• pipe thermal insulation;
• spandbond;
• elastic mesh.

The procedure will not take much time. You will need to secure the material you choose to the bottom of the seedling, securing it with tape or twine.

Rodent protection

The final stage of preparing apple trees for wintering in the Moscow region is installing protection against rodents. The trunks of young fruit trees must be wrapped before the first consumption of skeletal branches.

The following materials will help protect the bark from cold and rodent attacks:

• sackcloth;
• old tights;
• rags;
• agrofibre;
• plastic bottles;
• spruce branches;

• foamed and ordinary polyethylene;
• thick toilet paper;
• roofing felt;
• spunbond;
• geotextile fabric;
• dry stems of reeds or sunflowers.

Also, installing objects that create various sound effects will have a good effect. Baits with poison and ultrasonic repellers will play an important role.

Whitewashing the trunk and skeletal branches

Whitewashing of fruit trees is done in late autumn, as soon as the heavy rains stop. Its purpose is to protect the tree from temperature changes and sunburn, and to reduce the likelihood of frost damage. If after work it suddenly rains, the whitewashing is repeated.

A good recipe for whitewashing apple trees in the fall:

• lime - 3 kg;
• copper sulfate - 0.5 kg;
• wood glue - 200 g.

Lime is diluted with water (10 liters), glue and vitriol are added successively. This composition will disinfect the bark, repair small cracks in it, and protect the tree from sunburn.

The trunk itself, as well as part of the skeletal branches (the thickest on the tree), are whitewashed. It is better to do work from the bottom up.

Barrel processing

Another mandatory procedure that should be included in the autumn care of an apple tree is the treatment of the trunk. It is carried out with the aim of strengthening the tree, destroying larvae or eggs of harmful insects remaining under the surface of the bark after the fruiting season, as well as protecting the wood from icing and the bright rays of the winter sun.

Important! Damaged areas of the trunk must be disinfected with hydrogen peroxide to protect the apple tree wood from infections and pests.

The barrel must be processed carefully so as not to injure its surface. The main stages of autumn processing of a tree trunk are listed later in the article.

Identifying and removing moss and lichens

This procedure is carried out after sanitary pruning of the tree. Its main purpose is to provide free access of air to the surface of the barrel. Even a small amount of moss on the trunk and branches of an apple tree can be dangerous for the health of the tree, since in the future it can grow over most of the bark, which causes the branches to dry out and the shoots to die.

Rules for peeling apple tree bark are listed below:

1. It is recommended to carry out the procedure after most of the tree’s foliage has fallen off.
2. When cleaning the bark, the soil around the trunk of the apple tree needs to be covered with a layer of film - after completing the procedure, you can easily collect all the removed fragments and take them outside the site to avoid the penetration of spores into the soil near the tree.
3. The green coating of moss and lichen must be carefully removed from the tree bark using a plastic scraper.
4. Cleaned areas should be disinfected with a solution of copper sulfate (300 g per 10 liters of water), and then lubricated with garden varnish for speedy healing.
5. You can prepare a special mixture for cleaning moss from an apple tree - mix equal amounts of clay and slaked lime, and then add water to them to make a thick porridge-like mass. The product is applied to an area of ​​bark covered with a green coating and left to dry for several days. Then carefully remove the mixture along with pieces of lichen and moss.

Important! You cannot clean the trunk of an apple tree with metal objects - they severely damage the wood.

Identifying and controlling harmful insects

In autumn, larvae of insect pests may remain on the surface of the apple tree, which successfully overwinter under the tree bark and become more active with the onset of spring warmth.

To further protect the apple tree from the attacks of these insects, carry out the following actions:

• using a metal brush, carefully remove areas of old bark on the trunk - they need to be taken outside the site and destroyed, as there may be pest larvae and pathogens underneath them;
• to protect the tree from fungal diseases, the trunk is sprayed with an aqueous solution of urea (0.5 kg of substance per 10 liters of water);
• Spraying the crown with a solution prepared from 400 g of soda ash, 50 g of laundry soap and 10 liters of water will help destroy harmful microorganisms and pests;
• if there are fungal diseases of the apple tree, the trunk is sprayed with a fungicide solution (for example, “Horus”);
• if a tree has been attacked by pests, then for the most effective protection, the trunk and branches are irrigated with an insecticide (for example, Karbofos, Aktara).

Important! Any autumn treatment of apple trees against diseases and pests should be carried out on a dry and clear day and only at above-zero air temperatures.

Whitewashing an apple tree trunk

To prevent the surface of the trunk from becoming icy under gusts of cold winter wind, as well as to protect it from the rays of the bright winter sun, the trunk and the bases of the lower skeletal branches are whitewashed. This procedure helps protect the tree bark from rodent invasion, but for this it is recommended to additionally wrap the trunk with thick cardboard, spruce branches or roofing felt.

Experienced gardeners give the following recommendations for autumn whitewashing of apple trees:

• the procedure should be carried out at the end of October or beginning of November, after pruning and cleaning the trunk;
• to whitewash the trunk, you can use a ready-made store-bought solution or prepare it yourself from 500 g of copper sulfate, 3 kg of lime, 200 g of wood glue and 10 liters of water;
• for a young apple tree, it is recommended to apply whitewash to the trunk and lower skeletal branches;
• so that the solution is guaranteed to remain on the surface of the bark, it is applied in dry weather;
• At the time of whitewashing, the air temperature outside should be at least +3°C.

Read more about the features of whitewashing an apple tree in autumn and spring.

Techniques for sanitary pruning of apple trees

In the fall, only sanitary pruning is done on apple trees, and the shaping is carried out until spring. This approach allows you to avoid weakening the tree, it will survive the winter better.

Work on sanitary pruning begins after the end of leaf fall, but before frost. It is important that the weather is dry.

Table of approximate dates for sanitary pruning of apple trees for different regions

Follow the weather forecast so you don't miss a favorable time.

During sanitary pruning, dry, broken and pest-damaged branches are removed. They are removed with a sharp, disinfected pruning shears, always using a ring. The cut areas are treated with disinfectant solutions, for example, copper sulfate (a teaspoon per liter of water), this will protect the tree from fungal infections.

As an additional protection for the apple tree, you can cover the damaged areas with garden varnish.

Preventative treatments

Autumn preparation will increase the frost resistance of apple trees

The procedure is carried out on a cloudy day and only after the tree has shed all its leaves. During this period, the apple tree enters the dormant phase, the buds close, and the risk of pesticides penetrating into the plant tissue disappears.

If there was precipitation within three days after treatment, it is necessary to re-irrigate.

From pests

A solution of copper or iron sulfate has a detrimental effect on various sucking and gnawing insects. This product is dissolved in warm water (40°C), then brought to the required volume with cold water.

The dosage per 10 liters of water depends on the condition of the tree:

• for healthy specimens, use a solution of 250-300 g;
• for infected people, the concentration is increased to 450-500 g.

From diseases

A urea solution or preparations with a fungicidal or insecticidal effect will help provide newly planted or mature apple trees with effective protection against fungal, viral and bacterial diseases.

For sick and healthy plants, different homemade remedies are used. The number of components is calculated for 10 liters of water:

• in the first case, 250-300 g is enough;
• in the second, a solution of increased concentration is used - 600-700 g.

When affected by scab, powdery mildew, fruit rot and black cancer, autumn treatment with iron sulfate is required, which is carried out after the leaves fall. Directions for preparation and use are indicated on the packaging.

A tank composition of urea and iron sulfate - 200 g per 10 liters of water - will help destroy pests that have settled on the apple tree in the fall.

Treating apple trees against pests and diseases

Work on spraying apple trees is done after cleaning the garden, sanitary pruning, and removing mosses and lichens. In terms of timing, this is the period from the end of leaf fall to the onset of the first frost. Temperatures should not drop below 5°C and no rain should be expected in the coming days.

Methods for processing apple trees in the fall:

1. For the prevention of fungal infections with “Horus” or “Skor” solutions. Use according to instructions.
2. For viral infections (apple scab, powdery mildew) treatment with urea. To prepare the solution, dilute 300 g of urea in 10 liters of water.
3. Against moss, lichens, as well as viral diseases of apple trees and cancer, they are treated with a solution of iron sulfate. Dilute 200-300 g of the substance in 10 liters of water; if you previously had the listed diseases, the concentration is increased to 500 g/10 liters.

Against apple tree pests, it is good to spray with solutions of the preparations “Aktara” or “Zubr”.

When working with chemicals, protect your respiratory system and eyes. Try not to spray trees during strong winds.

Fertilizer and moisture

Basic care for apple trees in the fall includes two important procedures - hydration and balanced nutrition. They provide good frost resistance and disease resistance.

Trees growing in arid zones have the greatest need for moisture. Water-recharging irrigation is carried out in October - up to 10 buckets of water are used per plant. After this, mulch with a thick layer of soil, which will protect the roots from drying out.

Depending on the age, different fertilizers for apple trees, prepared by yourself, are used.

• For young people up to three years old, a liquid complex composition is used. Mix 2 tbsp. l. superphosphate and potassium sulfate (potassium sulfate), dissolved in a bucket of water or taken dry - 1 tbsp. l. each substance per 1 m². The second food option is a solution of potassium monophosphate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).
• Adult and old specimens can be fed as follows: take 8 tbsp per tree. l. superphosphate and 6 tbsp. l. sulfate per bucket of water or in dry form - 3 tbsp. l. each substance per 1 m². A solution of potassium monophosphate (20 g per 10 liters of water) is also suitable.

Many people use ready-made purchased fertilizers for fruit crops. The dosage and regimen of use are indicated on the packaging.

Rules for mulching apple trees

To protect the roots from freezing, you need to mulch the tree trunk. This is done after sanitary pruning, cleaning the tree bark, applying fertilizing and water-replenishing watering. In the Leningrad region, the Urals and Siberia, such a measure is mandatory, especially if the garden is young.

For mulching you can use:

• sawdust;
• lowland peat;
• humus and compost.

Fallen leaves can be taken for mulching only after they have been treated with fungicides, otherwise there will be more harm to the tree than good.

Make a layer of mulch at least 10 cm. To protect against wind blowing, you can lay agrofibre on top. The main thing is that the mulch layer is at a distance of 10 cm from the tree trunk, otherwise it will begin to rot. As soon as the snow melts, the mulch must be removed, otherwise the soil underneath will take a long time to warm up.

It is undesirable to mulch apple trees with straw: it attracts mice that can spoil the young bark.

Condition of apple trees in autumn

The plant enters a dormant period and begins to prepare for winter. The tree sheds its leaves, and most biochemical processes slow down. Features of apple tree development:

1. Immunity decreases.
2. To survive the cold, the plant intensively accumulates moisture and nutrients.
3. Pests hibernate in the soil under trees, as well as on the bark and shoots.
4. Weakened shoots and entire sections of bark die.

Important!

Caring for an apple orchard in the fall begins after harvesting. If there are rotten fruits left on the branches, you need to remove them - pests can overwinter there.

Prevention of rodent infestations

In winter, apple trees are severely damaged by various rodents - mice, rats, hares. Therefore, after all the work in the garden has been carried out, but before covering the apple trees for the winter, they are protected in different ways:

• wrapping the trunk and branches with fine mesh;
• wrapping with lutrasil or burlap;
• protection with special tapes.

You can also place unnecessary rags soaked in birch tar near the trunk, along the border of the mulch. Rodents do not like its smell and will avoid such a tree.

Do not deceive trees with roofing felt (roofing felt): this material does not allow air to pass through, and therefore causes the bark to rot.

Cleaning the bark

The next stage is the removal of the old bark, which has already begun to peel off. It can be cleaned with a metal brush, spatula or a non-sharp knife. The operation is carried out so that the insects have nowhere to overwinter and lay larvae.

For the codling moth, you can make belt traps - wrap the trunk with burlap ribbons 10-15 cm wide and tie it at the top so that the insects can climb under the fabric and settle there for the winter. With the onset of frost, the belts are removed and the “guests” are shaken off to the ground.

The best natural enemies of bark beetles and codling moths are birds - they can be attracted to the garden with ordinary feeders. Moreover, it is not at all necessary to pour a lot of grain into them; after a small treat, the birds will want to supplement their diet with flying and crawling insects.

Moss and lichens need to be removed along with the old bark. By themselves, they do not cause harm to the tree, but harmful microorganisms settle in them. They are easy to remove after spraying with iron or copper sulfate. The trees are completely treated with these preparations, paying special attention to the gray-green spots on the trunk.

The trunks are additionally whitened with lime to a height of 70-80 cm - this is another degree of protection from insects and rodents that like to feast on the young bark of fruit trees. A good option for protecting the trunk from rodents is plastic bottles. They are cut lengthwise and attached to the trees with tape.

It is better to remove fallen leaves; to insulate the root system, it is preferable to use foliage of non-fruit trees or pine needles.

Ways to cover an apple tree for the winter

If the region experiences severe frosts, then the young garden needs to be insulated. This work is done at the final stage, when the garden is cleaned and the trees are prepared for wintering.

What can be used for insulation:

• burlap;
• spunbond;
• cardboard.

The trunk and branches are wrapped in several layers, fixing the material with tape or tied with twine. Work begins from the bottom up, capturing the trunk itself and all skeletal branches. To protect the branches from the wind, they are tied to a firmly driven metal or wooden stake.

Panel insulation of trees

In regions with harsh climatic conditions, trees can be insulated with wooden panels. The main thing here is to form the crown so that the height of the tree does not exceed 2–2.5 m, otherwise the work of insulating with shields will be difficult.

The shields are made from slats and covered with roofing felt. The width of the shields is about 1 m, the height is equal to the height of the tree. For insulation, a stake is driven in next to the tree, to which the first shield is tied. A second shield is tied to it, and so on until a solid fence is erected around the tree. Typically, an adult apple tree requires 6–7 shields; installing them will take about half an hour.

To protect against rodents, the lower part of the shields is treated with sand, and cloth soaked in sand or birch tar is placed on the joints between them. Even the most daring mouse will not overcome such a barrier. In the shield shelter, the branches do not freeze, overwinter well and emerge strong in the spring, ready to bear fruit.

Covering with shields is widely used in private farms and experimental gardens in the Urals and Siberia.

Preparing columnar apple trees for winter:

1. Place a layer of peat inside
2. Build them into a cone-shaped pyramid
3. Take wooden planks
4. Cover the apple tree with it
5. Wrap the pyramid with a tarp or other material

Preparing apple tree seedlings for winter includes staking . A stake is driven into the ground near the tree, the trunk of the tree is tied to it, the same can be done with columnar apple trees.

Read: Preparing berry crops in the garden for winter

Such a support will prevent the seedlings from breaking due to strong gusts of wind. After these procedures, your apple trees will be able to survive all the whims of winter. In early spring it will be possible to release them from their shelters and watch them bloom and bear fruit, strong and healthy - the pride of the owner, the decoration of the garden.

All these numerous procedures for preparing apple trees for winter will help keep the trees healthy and strong, and get a good harvest next season.

Read: How to protect trees for the winter - a traditional question for summer residents

Nuances of preparation for different regions

Each region has its own characteristics of autumn preparation of the apple orchard. We’ll tell you in which regions you need to pay special attention:

1. In the central zone and the Volga region, favorable conditions have been created for the development of diseases and pests. Here the emphasis should be on preventive treatment against them and the fight against debris in the garden. Insulation of branches can be done if winters are harsh, but mulching is always necessary.
2. In the Moscow and Nizhny Novgorod regions the climate is harsher, here it is necessary to do moisture-replenishing irrigation and insulate the branches of young apple trees (under 5 years of age). Feeding and pest control are also needed.
3. In the Urals and Siberia, all the measures listed in the article are necessary. Trees must be insulated, the layer of mulch reaches 30 cm. For the winter, they put up shields or insulate the trees with snow, raking it towards the trunk and compacting it.

In the south of Russia, apple trees are not insulated for the winter. To protect the roots from frost, moisture-charging watering and mulching are used. Treatment against pests and diseases is mandatory: in a relatively warm and humid climate they develop rapidly, and without preventive spraying the apple tree will get sick a lot.

It is important which varieties will be grown on the site. Northern Sinap, Gorno-Altaisky or Altai Souvenir are suitable for Siberia, but in the south they will be bad.

Features of wintering apple trees

The apple tree is one of the most frost-resistant fruit trees. Many varieties overwinter at -40–45°C without much harm. This applies to wood, roots, and growth buds. In addition, the tree quickly recovers over the next season, even if damaged by frost.

But there are also varieties that are damaged already at -25°C. Based on the varietal characteristics and characteristics of the local climate, it is determined whether the tree needs to be covered for the winter, and if so, how thoroughly.

The frost resistance of some varieties of apple trees allows them to winter without damage in the Urals, Siberia, and the Far East, but there are also much less cold-resistant varieties

Let's sum it up

Apple trees need to be prepared for wintering in any region, regardless of climatic conditions. The yield in subsequent years depends on this. In order not to miss anything, save the instructions for the procedure after the end of leaf fall:

1. Remove foliage, clean and loosen the tree trunk circle.
2. Add fertilizer.
3. Make moisture-charging irrigation.
4. Clear the bark of moss and lichen, and fill up hollows.
5. Make sanitary pruning.
6. Treat trees against pests and diseases with solutions in preventive concentrations.
7. Mulch the tree trunk circle.
8. Protect the tree from rodents.

Young apple trees in all regions, with the exception of the southern ones, need insulation of the trunk and branches. In Siberia and the Urals, mature trees of many varieties also need to be insulated. Without this, it will not be possible to maintain the health of the apple tree; by spring, if it does not die, it will come out very weakened.

Pre-winter care for apple trees in the garden

Apple trees need winter protection just like small seedlings and other plants. Mulching, whitewashing and pruning allow the tree to retain its vitality and bring a rich harvest in the summer. Read more about how to prepare an apple tree for winter in this article.

Apple trees take root well in the varied climatic conditions of Russia. These are one of the most frost-resistant trees - they can withstand temperatures down to -40 degrees. Despite this, they are often negatively affected by the lack of snow and pests. This is especially true for young seedlings that were planted in the fall. Preparing the apple tree for winter can help the tree survive the winter successfully. Autumn care includes fertilizing, watering, whitewashing the trunk, and pruning. It is better to carry out all work before the first frost.

Measures to prepare an apple tree for winter are aimed at helping the tree recover after the fruiting period. In this case, work begins before the first frost: at the end of September or in October. First you need to clean the area around the plant. Fallen fruits and leaves create a warm, rotted substrate that serves as an ideal breeding ground for bacteria and pests. The carrion can be sent to a compost pit or burned. Scab, moniliosis and fungi often overwinter in them, which are then carried onto the trees by the wind. It also happens that some apples do not fall to the ground, but remain on the branches, gradually rotting. Such a “harvest” is very harmful to the tree, so all the fruits must be removed and also sent to compost.

It is necessary to prune a tree before winter to rejuvenate it and form the crown correctly. It also guarantees a stable harvest and extends the life of the plant. It is not recommended to prune first-year seedlings, since they do not yet have enough strength to restore the crown and survive the winter. Branches are trimmed on large trees for their safety. In severe winters, snow and ice collected on the crown can harm the apple tree.

Some gardeners practice pruning young seedlings to increase the tree's chance of survival. Many apple trees begin to bear fruit already in the second year after planting, which negatively affects their condition. In this case, pruning allows you to create a large and healthy tree.

Work should begin after all the foliage has fallen. In this case, diseased or dry branches will be clearly visible, and the movement of sap will stop. It is better to immediately treat the cut area with diluted copper sulfate to prevent fungal infection. When the surface dries, you need to apply garden varnish.

Watering an apple tree before winter may not always be beneficial. In an area with groundwater or loamy soil, this will only do harm. But if the summer season was hot and dry, then the plant must be provided with sufficient moisture. However, you shouldn’t overdo it either, since liquid can accumulate in the tree trunk and negatively affect the apple tree during frosts. This is also why you should not water the area next to the trunk. Drip irrigation is best in mid-October or September. This allows you to nourish the tree and keep it warm in winter: dry soil freezes faster and protects the roots less well from the cold.

In parallel with watering, you need to fertilize the soil. Fruit plants deplete their supply of nutrients by autumn, and to replenish it, it is necessary to feed the apple tree. This can be done using both mineral fertilizers and organic matter. Potassium and phosphorus should be added as follows:

• It is better to place phosphorus (bone meal or superphosphate) in a hole next to the root system.
• Potassium-containing fertilizers are sprinkled on the roots.
• But fertilizing with nitrogen before winter is not recommended, since it activates shoot growth.

Organic fertilizers increase soil fertility and saturate the soil with useful substances.
On average, 5 buckets of fertilizer are applied under a tree while digging. Manure, humus, compost and vermicompost have a beneficial effect. Often in the spring, when the climate changes and the tree becomes more vulnerable, it is attacked by pests. They overwinter near the places where they developed in the summer - in the soil next to the trunk, on branches or in dead leaves. During the thaw, they come to life and begin to reproduce on the apple tree. You can prevent pest infestation by cleaning the area, burning leaves, trimming branches and whitewashing the tree. Any damage must be covered with garden varnish, and the trunk must be cleared of old bark, moss and lichens. It is in them that pests and caterpillars can hide:

1. 1. Before work, they spread a newspaper under a tree, which they then burn. It is on this that the larvae and eggs of pests will fall.
2. 2. Using a plastic or iron scraper, get rid of moss and lichen. If the bark is damaged, then it should be covered with varnish.
3. 3. After treatment, the trunks are covered with a protective layer, which will prevent damage by fungi or bark beetles.

Insecticides can be used if the garden has already suffered from an insect invasion in the summer and there is a possibility of a repeat epidemic in the spring. These products should only be used when absolutely necessary, as they have a negative impact on the crop.

To prevent fungal infection, you can use iron sulfate. It protects the tree from diseases and contains useful substances.

Caring gardeners have tree trunks that sparkle with white paint in the fall. This is not done for beauty, but to protect against the following negative factors:

• Sunburn. The lack of foliage makes the trunk vulnerable to ultraviolet rays. Falling snow further worsens the situation by reflecting the rays onto the tree.
• Temperature changes that lead to cracking of the bark.
• Insects that live in the bark.
• Animals and rodents that love to eat the bark of young apple trees.

The bark is a protective shell that absorbs cold wind, frost, sun and protects the tree trunk. It’s like people’s skin and needs protection no less. Whitewashing is done as follows: take chalk or lime, clay and copper sulfate. Instead of a solution, you can also use white water-based paint, which is safe for trees.

The trunk circle is the area around the trunk, slightly larger than the diameter of the crown. This space is critical to the health of the apple tree because it is where the root system is located. To protect the tree from pests, the tree trunk needs to be dug up before winter. If you leave everything as is, then in the spring the larvae will hatch and begin to reproduce on the plant. You need to loosen the soil to a depth of about 15 centimeters.

Mulch becomes a layer between the soil and air. It covers the tree trunk circle like a blanket and protects it from overheating, excess moisture, freezing and drying out. For apple trees, temperature changes are not critical, but it is difficult to call them useful. Mulch protects the tree's root system, allowing it to conserve its resources. In addition, fertilizer can be made from scrap materials, and it costs almost nothing. To do this, you need to take plant remains, grass, straw, peat, pine needles and even paper or cardboard. But sawdust or bark grow moldy and become a breeding ground for fungi and pests, so they should not be used. The layer thickness should be about 5 centimeters.

Mice and hares love to eat tree bark in winter. There are several ways to protect the trunk:

• Wrap it in material. You can cover apple trees for the winter with anything: burlap, roofing felt, spruce branches. This will not only protect the tree from pests, but also insulate it.
• More serious measures will help against hares: for example, installing iron cylinders made of white galvanized iron. Instead, you can use whitewashed buckets with the bottom cut out.
• Coat the trunk with a fragrant mixture of clay and fresh mullein.
• Place a high solid fence along the entire area that you cannot crawl under.

Another simple and effective way to protect fruit trees is to install polyester foam spheres, which can be purchased at any hardware store. The main thing is not to forget to remove it in the spring, when the first sun warms up, otherwise the greenhouse effect cannot be avoided. Many gardeners argue about how to cover apple trees for the winter, and whether it is worth doing.

If the temperature in the region changes frequently and does not drop below -10, then you can do without insulation. For residents of the north (Siberia and the Urals) and central Russia, it is better to cover the tree, since winters there can be harsh.

If everything is done correctly, the plant will feel good in the cold. But gardeners often make the following mistakes when preparing apple trees for winter:

• Cover the tree too early. In this case, the trunk begins to rot, and the apple tree is affected by fungal infections that quickly multiply in warmth and darkness. Therefore, you first need to wait for the temperature to drop to -4.-7 degrees and only then insulate the plants.
• Nitrogen fertilization. This stimulates the growth of apple trees, and instead of accumulating nutrients, they continue the growing season. As a result, the foliage does not fall and remains until the snow, and the movement of sap does not have time to stop in time.
• Complete cover of young seedlings. It is often recommended to wrap trees to protect them from ice, snow and frost. However, because of this, the trunk breaks or warps. If there is a need to completely cover the apple tree, then columnar wooden structures can be used for this.
• Covering with a bag. Mice can easily chew through canvas fabric. If there are problems with rodents on the site, then it is better to buy a special fine mesh.
• Using cut plastic bottles or other PVC products to protect the barrel. The cylinders act as a magnifying glass and cause bark burns. The consequences of such covering often lead to the death of the apple tree.

In autumn, plants store nutrients that help them successfully survive cold, wind and bright sun rays. In recent years, the weather has become too unpredictable - a thaw often occurs in the middle of winter, and the first frosts come at the end of summer. You can protect apple trees through careful preparation: cleaning, digging, fertilizing, whitewashing and insulating the trunk.

Common care mistakes

1. It is important not only to cover the apple tree before winter, but also to do it correctly. Covering a young annual tree too early can encourage its growth. You can cover the apple tree only after the sap flow has completely stopped. Experienced gardeners call the time when the average daily air temperature will be about minus 5-10 degrees.
2. Before whitewashing, be sure to clean the trunk from cracked bark; if this is not done, then parasites will overwinter there.
3. Whitewashing in rainy or humid weather will prevent the solution from drying quickly, and it will flow down.
4. Exceeding the dose of lime in the solution can result in bark burns. For young apple trees, the dose of lime is reduced by 2-2.5 times.
5. Whitewashing of the trunk should be done before frost.
6. The composition of the whitewash solution should be changed, since the annual use of iron or copper sulfate will lead to intoxication of the apple tree, since it has the ability to accumulate in the trunk. It should be alternated with a solution of soap and ash.

Apple tree insulation and protection

Young trees mainly need protective shelter and insulation. Place humus in the tree trunk area (layer 3-4 cm). To protect the plant from rodents, wrap the trunk with netting up to the first branches. Remove unripe shoots from all apple trees that grow in your garden, regardless of their age. As soon as the first snow falls, poisoned bait can be placed near the trees.

Apple tree protection

Care and cherish your apple trees, and they will definitely give you delicious juicy fruits.

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