How to plant onion seeds in the fall and get a good harvest of greenery

After winter vitamin deficiency, you can easily replenish vitamin reserves from young onions if you plant spring onions before winter. Opinions about the homeland of the plant differ. Some experts believe that it was grown in China, others in Asia. In its natural environment it grows in Japan, Siberia and Asian countries. Tatarka and fiddle onion are also common names for this type of onion. The plant is cultivated all over the world because of its very delicate taste, not typical of other varieties, and for its early germination.

Is it possible to sow spring onions before winter?

This onion variety is frost-resistant and can be planted before winter. It belongs to those vegetable crops that, when sown in late autumn, grow stronger than when planted in spring. Like every perennial crop, onions need stratification for good germination.

Not all varieties of crops are suitable for winter planting, but only those that can withstand even a snowless winter. These varieties include:

• April;
• May;
• Salad-35.

Onions are grown in one place for several years. If you plant it in the last month of autumn, then in March you will be able to enjoy the sweet, fragrant feathers of the vitamin plant.

Advantages and disadvantages

Benefits include:

• rapid rate of leaf regrowth after cutting;
• high productivity;
• feather ripening is about 30 days;
• ripens up to three times during the summer;
• resistant to pests;
• grows in one place for up to 5 seasons.

The disadvantages include:

• absence of the usual bulb;
• short period of rough leaves;
• rapid release of seeds from inflorescences.

When to plant onion seeds

Onion can be sowed at least three times a year, but its seeds lose their ability to germinate during storage, so sowing before winter is the best option for this plant.

It can also be planted in any spring-summer month and get a good harvest of vitamin-rich greens. For earlier shoots, planting is organized in February; the last sowing date should be no later than July-August.

Basically, trampoline onions are planted with seeds for seedlings - this is the most reliable way to get early greens. In this case, sowing begins in February and is planted in open ground, depending on the climatic conditions of the region.

Planting spring onions with seeds before winter begins in the last autumn month.

Harvest and storage

For the perennial onion variety, leaf cutting begins only in the second year of planting in open ground. You need to cut the feathers at least 5 cm from the base so as not to damage the bulb. Harvesting must be completed a month before the onset of frost.

For an annual variety, the whole plant is harvested.

For the first month after collection, it can be stored in a damp cloth in the lower compartment of the refrigerator. Subsequently, the loaf can be packed in a container and placed in the freezer .

When to plant spring onions before winter

When planting batun before winter, it must be taken into account that early varieties sprout quickly, but their feathers also quickly become coarse, fibrous and unsuitable for food.

Late varieties are highly productive; they produce fresh, juicy stems within 5 months.

Planting onions in the fall before winter begins no earlier than November, when the top layer of soil survives the first frost. The air temperature should be at least 5-6 degrees.

Selecting a landing site

This culture does not like direct exposure to the sun; a shaded place is more suitable for it. The plant sap well under the cover of trees or hedges.

A rich harvest of onions will be on the soil where the predecessors were:

• legumes;
• cabbage;
• tomatoes.

Planting after the following crops is undesirable:

• onion;
• garlic;
• carrot.

The most suitable land for planting spring onions is in lowlands where there are no shallow deposits of underwater water. It is not recommended to plant on slopes and hillocks to prevent the soil from being washed away by water during precipitation.

The soil is disinfected and fertilized with organic fertilizers a month before planting.

A good harvest directly depends on the composition of the soil. She must be:

• loamy, sandy loam;
• slightly acidic;
• fertilized, fertile;
• with moderate humidity.

The soil should not be allowed to dry out - arrows are intensively formed in the bow on dry soil.

If the soil is highly acidic, it must be neutralized. To do this, six months before sowing the following is added to it:

• wood ash;
• lime;
• dolomite flour.

Since the crop will grow in one place for several years, it is necessary to fertilize the soil well in advance. The following is added to the soil 2-3 months before planting:

• humus;
• mineral and organic fertilizers;
• ammonium nitrate.

The soil should be well saturated with fertilizers; after sowing, the soil is no longer fed so intensively.

Onion seeds need to be calibrated. To do this, they are kept for half an hour in a saline solution of 1:10. Poor quality seeds float to the surface.

Seeds that have settled to the bottom are processed as follows:

1. Rinse.
2. Soak for disinfection in a manganese solution for 20-30 minutes.
3. Soak for 7-8 hours in a growth stimulator solution.

When updating the bed, you can dry the collected seeds, process them and leave them for the next sowing.

Sowing onions before winter

When planting, a large number of seeds are sown, taking into account the fact that some of them may not germinate.

Recommendations for planting onion seeds before winter:

• the best time to plant Tatarka is after the first slight frost, at the end of November;
• choose loamy soil for planting;
• Before sowing, the land is fertilized - superphosphate, humus, and potassium salts are added;
• loosen the ground, remove weeds;
• the interval between grooves should be 20-22 cm;
• The planting hole is 2 cm deep, between the holes a space of up to 4 cm is required.

After planting the onion, the area is mulched with fallen leaves, vegetable tops or peat.

When planting vegetatively, the perennial bush should be divided into parts. The batun does not have bulbs, as in a regular onion, and the stems are collected in bunches with thickening at the bottom. At the end of each of them there should be a thin spine.

In severe frosts, it is necessary to insulate the bed; to do this, cover it with polyethylene, securing it along the edges from gusts of wind.

In early spring, it is also necessary to cover the first onion sprouts with film so that they are not damaged.

How to care for plantings

After completing the sowing work and covering the beds, you can exhale and relax. With the arrival of spring, when the snow melts, agrofibre and mulch are removed. The first shoots appear after 5-6 days. Grown onions are immediately thinned out, since thickened plantings will cause low yields.

In spring, the batun slowly grows green feathers .
To stimulate protective forces and activate growth, plantings are watered with Epin or Zircon. Further care includes :

1. Control the moisture level, watering the plantings as needed, taking into account the high moisture needs of young plants. The soil is shed to a depth of about 20 cm. During drought, the batun is watered every other day. In weather with moderate temperatures, watering is carried out with warm water twice a week at the root.
2. Regular loosening of the beds after rain and watering and weeding as weeds grow.
3. In the first year after sowing the batun, there is no need to apply fertilizer before winter. It is permissible to dust the beds with wood ash to increase plant productivity and protect against insects. Subsequently, the plantings are fertilized with mullein (1:10) or chicken droppings (1:15).

Protection from diseases and pests

Onions are susceptible to downy mildew (downy mildew) . The leaf blade is covered with a gray-violet moldy coating. Plant growth stops.

Rust on green feathers appears as yellow, round spots . The marketability of greenery deteriorates significantly, leaves die off and yields decrease.

For the prevention and treatment of diseases, preparations with copper are used: “HOM”, “Oxychom”, copper sulfate, 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture. 2-3 treatments are enough.

The spring onion is often attacked by the onion leaf beetle . Adults overwinter in the soil, and in early spring they rise to the surface and begin to actively feed on young greenery. The adult beetle is 6-7 mm long and has an oblong shape. The color is orange-red, the antennae and eyes are black, and the limbs are red. The larva is thick, convex, dirty yellow in color.

Adult onion weevils pierce the feather and suck out the juice. Weevil larvae burrow into greenery and feed on plant tissue.

Onion fly larvae eat the bulbs, causing the plant to wilt and turn yellow.

The onion secretive proboscis overwinters under plant debris and lumps of soil. It comes to the surface after the snow melts. It feeds on young green feathers of batun. The damage is caused by larvae and beetles. The damage looks like needle pricks, closely spaced along the leaf.

It is not recommended to use strong chemicals for processing onions . Green mass actively accumulates toxic substances, so its consumption leads to poisoning of the body.

Diseases and insect attacks are easier to prevent using such methods:

1. Sowing onions in the same area no earlier than after 4 years.
2. Growing crops on fertile soil.
3. Compliance with the regime of watering and loosening the beds.
4. Timely removal of weeds - most insects lay eggs in weeds.
5. Removing sick, dead and damaged plants from the site - they spread infectious diseases.
6. Use healthy planting material from the manufacturer for sowing and preventive treatment of manually collected seeds with a solution of potassium permanganate.
7. Use of deterrents: potatoes treated with creolin or creosote, mulching beds with peat, dusting with tobacco shag and ash.
8. Watering the roots with tobacco decoction. Infuse 1 kg of fresh or 500 g of dry raw materials in 10 liters of boiling water for 12 hours, dilute with clean water 20-30 times, add 30 g of laundry soap shavings.

Care after landing

Onion is a moisture-loving crop, so the soil should be moistened regularly.

As soon as the first feathers appear, the onion must:

• thin out the plant;
• treat with a growth stimulator;
• regularly, especially after rains, weed and loosen the soil;
• water moderately every other day;
• cut off onion feathers as soon as they grow more than 15 cm.

Since this is a perennial crop, it is necessary to remove old plants and plant new ones every year. Renewal is necessary to increase productivity.

Despite the fact that Tatarka retains its productivity for 10 years, it is recommended to renew the beds every 5 years.

The first year after planting, onions do not require intensive feeding; they can only be lightly sprinkled with ash.

Advice! In the first year, it is not recommended to cut off the leaves of the onion; this will help it survive the first winter well and get stronger.

Sowing perennial onions in spring

As a perennial plant, batun can be planted with seeds both in winter and in spring, in early May, and in summer. If the planting becomes thicker, the seedlings are thinned out, leaving a distance of 6-7 cm. Already in July, you can get the first onion greens that can be cut.

If onion is cultivated as a perennial plant in the fall, the feathers cannot be cut off.

Next year, the old leaves need to be removed, and in 25-30 days the first harvest of onion greens will be ready. And after 60 days you will harvest a new harvest of feather onions.

When to plant

Batun can be sown three times a year, but its seed material loses the ability to germinate during storage, which is why the best option for the plant is sowing before winter.

To get a good green vitamin harvest, you can also plant it in any spring-summer month. To get earlier seedlings, sow in February, the last planting date is July-August.

In most cases, seed material is used to grow seedlings, since it is the most reliable way to obtain early greenery. Therefore, sowing of seed material for seedlings is carried out in February, and planting in unprotected soil is carried out in accordance with the climatic conditions of the growing region.

It is necessary to carry out pre-sowing treatment of seed material:

1. Soak for 15-20 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Then rinse well in clean water;
2. Soak for 10-12 hours in a growth stimulator, which significantly accelerates germination.

Onion seeds
Since onion is a perennial plant, highly fertile soil is required for its cultivation. Soil preparation begins a month before planting. Fertilizers containing nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus are applied to the soil.

REFERENCE: For 1 m2 you will need from 3 to 6 kg of humus. An alternative to organic fertilizers would be urea or ammonium nitrate (30-40 g per 1 m2).

Wood ash is rich in potassium and phosphorus. Also, 20 g of potassium chloride and 40 g of superphosphate are added per 1 m2. Fertilize the soil for planting in advance.

Growing batun onion through seedlings

Onion bushes, grown from seeds in seedlings, turn out to be stronger. This method also allows you to get the maximum yield when grown annually. To obtain strong plants, strict adherence to agricultural technology is necessary.

Selection of soil and suitable containers, their preparation

For planting, it is necessary to prepare nutritious soil, for which equal amounts of turf soil and humus are combined. After this, 75 g of mineral fertilizers and 2 cups of sifted wood ash are added to 10 liters of such substrate. To disinfect the soil, it is spilled with a solution of manganese.

For planting, it is most convenient to use small pots (about 5 cm deep) or peat tablets. A bouquet planting method is possible in pots, in which several seeds are planted in 1 container at once. You can also grow seedlings in boxes.

Sowing seeds for seedlings

Before planting, the seeds of the crop are soaked for 24 hours in a warm Energen solution: 1 capsule is diluted in 3 liters of water. Then, without washing, the planting material is dried to a free-flowing state.

The planting boxes are filled with soil and grooves 1 cm deep are made in it. The distance between them is maintained at 5 cm. The grooves are watered with the remaining Energen solution. The seeds are laid out in rows and covered with soil, which is leveled and compacted.

The container with seedlings is covered with glass or a transparent polyethylene bag and placed in a warm place. When planting in pots, the steps are similar, but the seeds are sown in the holes. To create special conditions, it is easier to use home mini-greenhouses, which are often sold with small pots.

Seedling care

After the emergence of seedlings, the improvised greenhouse is removed, the containers with seedlings are placed in a bright place and kept at a temperature of 20–25 ºС during the day, 12–15 ºС at night. The plant requires 14 hours of daylight, and therefore special phytolamps are used for additional illumination. Seedlings should be moistened moderately. It is advisable that the soil has time to dry out a little between waterings.

Fertilizing is carried out a week later, and then 3 weeks after emergence. To do this, prepare a solution of 2 g of potassium salt and the same amount of superphosphate per 10 liters of water. The sprouts are thinned out, leaving at least 3 cm between them.

They begin to harden the seedlings a week before planting in the ground. To do this, the onions are temporarily taken out into the open air. At first, staying on the street should be short-term, and by the end of the week it should be around the clock.

Planting seedlings in spring

It is necessary to plant onion seedlings only after they have been hardened. It is important that the frosts have already passed by the time of planting. Greens can grow in partial shade, but a bountiful harvest is obtained in sunny areas.

Seedlings should be planted in holes, leaving a distance of 12 cm between bushes and 20 cm between rows. The soil needs to be loose and not acidic. In the first days after planting, seedlings need film cover for final acclimatization.

Sowing

The row spacing should be at least 20-22 cm. The depth of the planting hole should be approximately 2 cm. The interval between holes is maintained at 4 cm. After planting, the soil is mulched. Fallen leaves, vegetable tops or peat are used as mulch.

Regardless of the method and timing of planting, the soil for growing should be:

1. Fertile;
2. Loose;
3. Not sour.

Give preference to light loamy and sandy loam soils. It is not recommended to plant spring onions on drying out grasslands and sandy soils, since as a result of moisture deficiency the crop will produce abundant shoots.

REFERENCE: The crop is planted in the beds after cabbage, tomatoes, green manure, beans, peas, and beans. Do not plant after garlic, onions, carrots.

Onion is a fairly unpretentious crop. However, it is still worth following agrotechnical recommendations for cultivation in order to get a good harvest of healthy greens even on a small plot of land.

After a long winter, adults and children need to replenish their vitamin reserves. Young spring onions, which were planted before winter, will help cope with vitamin deficiency. Tatarka or fennel onions are easy to grow at home on a windowsill, balcony, or in a greenhouse. It is enough to learn how to prepare planting material, how to plant it correctly and care for plants, and what difficulties may arise.

Content:

Types and varieties of onions

Onions are grown in Ukraine, Moldova, Russia, Mongolia, China, Japan, Western Europe and North America. Onion varieties are divided into two subspecies - Japanese and Russian.

Russian onion leaves have a dark green color and a pungent taste; they reach a height of 30-40 cm and quickly become coarse. Plants of this subspecies are highly branched, so they are grown in one place for no longer than four years. These varieties are propagated by seeds and by dividing the bush. The advantage of onion varieties belonging to the Russian variety is their high frost resistance. The Russian subspecies is represented by the following varieties:

• Maysky is a late-ripening, strongly branching onion with a pungent taste, weighing from 200 to 340 g, which does not freeze even in snowless winters, when the temperature drops to 45 ºC. The bulb of plants of this variety is elongated, poorly expressed, the outer scales are dark brown;
• Gribovsky 21 is a high-yielding variety with light green leaves of excellent taste and late bolting;
• Trinity is a mid-season winter-hardy variety of semi-sharp taste with delicate green leaves covered with a waxy coating of medium intensity;
• Russian winter onion - a mid-season, winter-hardy salad variety with a mildly pungent taste and strongly branching leaves up to 50 cm high;

The Japanese subspecies includes plants of medium height with delicate leaves of a semi-sharp taste that droop at the top. Japanese varieties are also winter-hardy, although they are inferior in this quality to varieties of the Russian subspecies. The Japanese variety of onion is divided into four varieties - Ro, Senju, Kujo and Kaga. Varieties of the Kaga and Ro types are very similar to each other - they have a semi-sharp taste, medium power and differ only in early ripening. Senju-type varieties, the most common in Japan, have powerful leaves with a mildly pungent taste and a delicate scent and a false stem reaching a height of 60-75 cm.

Kudze varieties have small leaves with a semi-sharp taste and are grown both indoors and outdoors. The most famous varieties of the Japanese variety include:

• spring onion April 12 is an early-ripening, frost-resistant, semi-sharp and disease-resistant variety with an elongated bulb and large, delicate leaves that do not harden for a long time. Plant weight from 200 to 300 g;
• Long Tokyo is a mid-season, winter-hardy, productive variety with a pungent taste with erect, delicate leaves up to 60 cm long with a slight waxy coating;
• Long white koshikaya is a productive winter-hardy mid-season variety of semi-sharp taste with long and wide erect tender leaves with a waxy coating;
• Saladny 35 is a semi-sharp, early-ripening, frost-resistant variety, resistant to disease, which in the second year produces two or three branches with five dark green, tender and juicy, long-lasting, non-coarsening leaves up to 50 cm long. The harvesting period of this variety is short because it starts shooting early.

Other varieties of onion are also popular in cultivation. For example:

• Ural Family is an early ripening variety with a semi-sharp taste, technical ripeness of which occurs 25 days after germination. This is a plant up to 50 cm high, which has many false stems and delicate green leaves with a yellowish tint and a waxy coating;
• Tenderness is a productive mid-season frost-resistant salad variety with a mildly pungent taste with a powerful, erect, branched rosette up to 40 cm high, made of green tender leaves with a barely noticeable waxy coating;
• Parade is a mid-season variety of Dutch selection, forming a rosette of bluish-green leaves with a faint waxy coating up to 60 cm high;
• Molodets is a productive and winter-hardy early-ripening variety of semi-sharp taste with erect bluish-green leaves up to 45 cm long with a strong waxy coating;
• Performer is a mid-season variety of average yield with erect bluish-green juicy and tender leaves up to 50 cm high with a strong waxy coating and a slightly pungent taste;
• Emerald is an early-ripening winter-hardy salad variety, resistant to disease, with tender and juicy dark green leaves with a strong waxy coating. This variety is a hybrid between spring onions and onions;
• Krasauvets is a new fruitful, frost-resistant, early-ripening variety, resistant to diseases and producing delicate, long-lasting greenery with a pleasant semi-sharp taste, up to 60 cm high;
• Baron is an early-ripening variety with a slightly pungent taste, up to 65 cm high, forming many false stems with delicate dark green leaves with a waxy coating;
• Ladoga is a mid-season salad variety with a delicate, slightly pungent taste with a rosette of erect leaves up to 50 cm high;
• Red snowdrop is an early-ripening, productive, frost-resistant variety with delicate, succulent leaves up to 30 cm long.

Is it possible to sow vegetables in the fall, when is it better?

Onions are suitable for planting before winter due to their frost-resistant properties . The plant can withstand frosts down to -10°C. Sowing seeds is carried out at least 3 times a year in autumn, summer or spring. The gardener chooses the planting time independently, based on personal preferences and the timing of the harvest.

Important ! Spring onions are usually sown before winter in early or mid-November. The air temperature should be at least +5-+6°C. We should not forget about the recommendations of the seed manufacturer.

Description

The variety is resistant to bad weather conditions, even in Siberia it gives excellent yields. It can be cultivated throughout Russia, Ukraine, and Moldova. Some agronomists grow onions even in winter in heated greenhouses.

“Russian winter onion” is a perennial plant; it can produce crops for 10 years, but the first four years are considered the most productive.
Instead of a turnip, there is a thickened white root in the soil. The greens are similar to the feathers of onions, but have wider foliage. In the first year, the variety is characterized by a large amount of green mass; in the second, stems with inflorescences at the top appear. During the season you can harvest up to four times; with the arrival of autumn, the foliage turns yellow and becomes unsuitable for consumption. For one cutting from 1 m2 you can get up to 1.5 kg of greenery. Interesting! The foliage contains twice as much vitamin C as regular onion greens.
“Batun” has a mild taste, it is eaten fresh, added to salads, and it also tolerates freezing well. The variety has excellent immunity and is rarely attacked by pests. Propagated by seeds and vegetatively.

Advantages

• Frost resistance.
• High yields.
• Long-term fruiting.
• Disease resistance.
• Ripens within 30 days.
• Great taste.

No disadvantages of the variety have been identified.

What varieties of perennial onions should be chosen for planting?

The following onion varieties are recognized as the best, most effective and high-yielding:

• early ripening semi-sharp - April, Saladny 35, Seryozha;
• mid-season semi-sharp - Baia Verde, Russian winter;
• late-ripening spicy - Maisky.

The choice will affect the time you receive the first green. If you give preference to early varieties, then fresh feathers can be eaten 1-1.5 months after sowing the seeds.

The preparation of Tatarka seeds occurs in several stages:

1. Calibration _ Soak in saline solution 1:10. Remove low-quality seeds - they will float to the surface.
2. Treatment . Rinse the remaining seeds thoroughly and let dry a little.
3. Disinfection . Soak in a weak solution of manganese. Keep for 20-30 minutes.
4. Growth activation . Soak the seeds in the growth stimulator solution for about 7-8 hours.

Attention ! The name of the drug for growth activation does not play a special role. Any solution for garden crops is perfect here. For example, Ekoriz No. 1, ExtraFlor. They are safe and have many positive reviews.

The choice of planting site is the main factor influencing the quality of the harvest. Onions do not like a lot of sunlight. Therefore, it is better to choose a shaded place after legumes, cabbage, tomatoes . It is not recommended to use beds after onions, garlic and carrots. Acceptable soil composition is loamy sandy loam, slightly acidic, fertile with moderate moisture.

A month before planting, pour boiling water over the soil, dig it up, and sprinkle it with wood ash and limestone. The measures will allow you to remove insect larvae, microorganisms and infectious agents from the soil.

Onions prefer enriched soils.
Therefore, 2 months before planting, the following fertilizers should be applied:

• humus;
• minerals and organics;
• ammonium nitrate.

The soil should be well saturated with fertilizers. Otherwise, the plants will weaken and die from the effects of sudden temperature changes. In the worst case, the seeds will not sprout.

Planting and caring for onions

• Planting: sowing seeds for seedlings - in mid-April, planting seedlings in the ground - in mid-June.
• Lighting: bright sunlight or partial shade.
• Soil: fertile, moist sandy loam or loamy soil with slightly acidic or neutral reaction.
• Watering: regular and so abundant that the soil is saturated to a depth of 20 cm. In a normal summer, 2 waterings per week will be enough, but in a drought, the area will have to be moistened every other day.
• Feeding: organic fertilizers in the form of slurry, wood ash and a solution of bird droppings, which can be used to fertilize the baton only once: the plant has the property of accumulating nitrates.
• Reproduction: seed.
• Pests: onion flies, weevils and moths.
• Diseases: downy mildew (downy mildew).
• Properties: has high nutritional value and is used in dietary nutrition.

Read more about growing onions below.

How to sow winter onions?

When planting, more seeds are sown than usual . Some seeds may not sprout. The recommendations are as follows:

• The best time is after the first November frosts (the period depends on the region of residence).
• For sowing, choose loamy soil - it can quickly absorb fertilizers and gradually release them to young plants.
• Before the event, be sure to add superphosphate, humus and potassium salts to the soil.
• Loosen the soil thoroughly, removing weeds along with the roots.
• Prepare furrows at intermediate intervals of 20-22 cm.
• Dig holes 2 cm deep. The distance between the holes should be 3-4 cm.

Plant the seeds to a depth equal to the hole. Mulch the area with fallen leaves, tops from garden crops or peat. If frosts are severe, then the ridge requires additional insulation. It is necessary to cover the area with plastic film, and press it well along the edges with heavy objects to protect it from the penetration of wind.

Care

Depending on the planting method and method of growing onions, the necessary care of the plant also depends. One of the most interesting planting methods is multi-tiered. But the general principles of care are similar. The entire care process boils down to the following steps:

• watering;
• weeding;
• loosening;
• application of fertilizers.

Each of these stages is very important and has its own impact on the result obtained.

Watering

When there is a lack of moisture in the soil, the tip of the feathers of the onion changes. It turns white and begins to curl. With excess moisture, the plant takes on a pale green tint.

The regularity of watering will depend directly on the climate and soil composition in a particular region. It is important to check that it is not completely dried out and to pay attention to the plants themselves.

When planning the required amount of water, you should take into account weather conditions and the possibility of the next watering.

If watered incorrectly, onion leaves change their color to yellow.

Weeding

If the sowing turns out to be very close to each other, then you need to thin out the seedlings to a distance of up to 6 cm. You also immediately need to loosen the soil between the rows to obtain a better harvest. The frequency of loosening will depend on the frequency of watering the plants.

After mid-July, you need to cut off all the leaves, leaving only young light feathers. Thus, the plant will accumulate more nutrients during the period of hibernation.

Fertilizers

In addition to watering, onions also require regular fertilization of the soil. What they need most is organic and mineral. Depending on the growth period of onions, different fertilizers are required. To grow onions, you need fertilizer. You can use both organic and mineral fertilizers. The trick is not to exaggerate the amount of material, otherwise the onion will have a specific taste and may become unsuitable for consumption. The first time after wintering you need to feed it in the spring with organic fertilizers. And all subsequent times it is necessary to apply mainly nitrogen-containing mineral fertilizers.

In autumn, liquid mineral fertilizers are applied. These include saltpeter, superphosphate and potassium chloride.

How to care for it in open ground, do you need to cut it?

Many gardeners claim that spring onions are capable of developing independently and well without human attention, watering, fertilizing, or thinning.
But this opinion is wrong. Any crop needs care and proper care. To please the onion with fresh, juicy feathers, it is enough to take into account the basic tips and recommendations, they are as follows:

• Watering . It is better to arrange water procedures abundantly and regularly. This way the stems and feathers will acquire tenderness, crunchiness and excellent taste. Excessive dryness of the soil will “delight” the vegetable grower with coarse and too bitter onions.
• Loosening . If a dry and strong crust has formed on the soil, it is necessary to loosen the top layer to a depth of 1-2 cm. This will improve the flow of air to the root system and saturate the roots with the necessary nutrients.
• Thinning . This activity should be carried out when onions are grown as a perennial crop. After the first 3-4 true feathers appear, thin out the plants. Leave a distance between them of 4-5 cm.
• Feeding . An excellent option would be manure and mineral fertilizers. The latter include ammonium nitrate (50 g per 1 sq. m), sodium chloride (20 g per 1 sq. m), superphosphate (30 g per 1 sq. m). Feed the bushes 3-4 times throughout the growing season. The main emphasis should be placed on the thinning stage.
• Trimming . When asked whether to trim onions, the answer is yes. Perform when the plant is 20 cm long. Leave 5-7 cm at the base to avoid loss of harvest quality. If the seeds are not needed, then it is better to remove the arrows with flowers. This will allow you to achieve more lush greens. Otherwise, the arrow will take away all the important vitamins and components for the formation of the flower and seeds.

Read about growing and caring for spring onions in open ground here.

Additional care measures

Additionally, you can treat the sprouts with a growth stimulator. The drugs will help young plants grow stronger, gain strength, and produce more strong and juicy feathers.

Planting spring onions before winter is easy and simple if you know some simple techniques. Growing a crop will become an exciting activity, and after a while you will have the opportunity to enjoy fresh, crispy feathers. Taking into account recommendations and advice will help to correctly carry out agrotechnical measures and simplify the growing process.

Sources used:

• https://agrognom.ru/vegetables/bow/kogda-seyat-luk-batun-pod-zimu.html
• https://proroslo.ru/lukovye/luk-batun/posadka-luka-batuna-osenyu-semenami.html
• https://nasotkah.com/ovoshhi/luk/vidi/batun/posadka-pod-zimu.html

Pests and diseases of onion

Subject to the conditions of agricultural technology, onions are almost not affected by diseases or pests, but sometimes troubles still happen. For example, the batun can suffer from onion weevils, moths and flies.

The onion moth eats the inside of onion leaves, leaving behind a thin skin. At the first signs of the appearance of a pest, plants are treated with a contact insecticide - Karbofos or Fufanon, but for some time after treatment, onions should not be eaten.

The onion weevil, a bug 2-2.7 mm long, makes punctures on the leaves of the onion and through them feeds on the sap of the plant. And weevil larvae gnaw holes in the leaves, causing them to turn yellow and disappear.

The onion fly is not much different from the well-known house fly, but it causes much more trouble. The fly larvae gnaw through the bulb and eat out cavities in it.

Among the diseases, onion can be affected by peronosporosis, or downy mildew. The infection covers the leaves with gray-purple mold and they die. The most effective remedy for this fungal disease is 2-3 treatments of plants with a solution of HOM or copper sulfate with an interval of 10 days. However, the most effective method is not always the safest.

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Onion processing

The best way to protect onions from pests and fungal diseases is to comply with the agrotechnical conditions for growing the crop, preventive measures and proper care - regular destruction of weeds and loosening of the soil. If you are careful, you will be able to detect signs of disease or the appearance of pests on onions at the very beginning, and then to get rid of the problem it will be enough to apply folk remedies to them - not as radical as solutions of fungicides and insecticides, but not toxic.

We offer you several recipes for folk remedies that will help you expel pests and destroy the infection on onions:

• from moths: treat the onion leaves with a strong solution of mustard powder;
• from pests: in May-June, give the onions a cold shower in the garden;
• from onion fly: 2-3 times per season, spray the plants with a solution of a glass of salt in a bucket of water;
• from pests and diseases: from early spring, treat onions leaf by leaf with infusions of potato tops, tomatoes, garlic peels or onions.

But before treating onions for diseases or pests, remove affected leaves and plants from the garden bed.

Unique characteristics of the plant

The homeland of the batun is Asia. It can still be found growing wild there today. In Russia, the onion is also widespread: a bed with this onion can be found in almost every garden.

The batun can grow in the same place for 7-11 years. The plant's bulbs are scanty and small. Hollow, juicy green feathers, in favorable conditions, can grow up to 1 m in height. They are used for preparing fresh and canned dishes, salads, sauces, and seasonings.

The chemical composition of onions is unique. It contains a whole complex of minerals, acids and vitamins. Essential oils, riboflavin, carotene - this is not a complete list of all the substances that make green batun feathers extremely useful.

Important! The green feathers of the onion contain 2 times more ascorbic acid than the onion head.

Due to its composition, green onions are used in medicine. Based on it, drugs are prepared that lower blood pressure and improve the elasticity of blood vessels and capillaries. Taking green feathers of this onion is effective for stomach diseases. Chinese medicine uses baton as an analgesic and tonic.

Anyone can grow batun in their garden. This will not be much work, and the benefits of a green feather will be irreplaceable. Onions planted before winter will delight you with their freshness in the spring even before seasonal vegetables, berries, and fruits grow and ripen.