What soil should you plant cucumbers in to make them sweet?


What should the soil be like for growing sweet cucumbers?

Cucumber soil should be fertile, neutral or slightly acidic with a pH ranging from 6.2 to 7.0. In areas with acidic soil, it is recommended to add additional lime to normalize the acidity.


Soil deoxidizers

You can determine soil acidity using a simple method here >>>>>

The root system of cucumbers is undeveloped, superficial (at a depth of no more than 30 cm). For growing in open ground, the level of groundwater is not particularly important. Watering, fertilizing, and loosening are carried out in the top layer.

Mulching the soil will be very helpful for growing cucumbers >>>>>>

How to determine soil acidity

There are several ways to determine soil acidity. To determine the quality of pH at home, the following indicators are most often used:

  1. Litmus paper, which is an indicator for alkalis and acids. The principle of obtaining results is that a piece of paper with a reagent applied to it is immersed in water with soil for 3 seconds, and then the result obtained is assessed on the appropriate scale.
  2. Table vinegar. This substance can be watered on dry soil taken from the garden bed. If no reaction occurs, this means that the material is acidified. If faint bubbles appear on the surface, this indicates that the earth is slightly acidic. Alkaline soil will exhibit a standard neutralization reaction.

You can also estimate the pH level using:

  1. Klychnikov’s method, which is an analysis of the behavior of soil when interacting with ordinary chalk. This method allows you to verify without complex manipulations that the soil has a low pH value, that is, it is acidic or slightly acidic.
  2. Alyamovsky method. To carry out the analysis, the gardener will need to acquire an electronic device that can quickly determine the desired indicator. The analysis can also be performed in a laboratory specializing in agricultural research. The procedure lasts only a minute, after which the result will appear on the display with a minimum error.

In cases where it is not possible to use the services of specialists, purchase a dosimeter device, or carry out other research using improvised and chemical means, you can resort to the observation method.

Cucumbers will feel great where they grow:

Coltsfoot and bird knotweed can also be seen in wet beds in early spring. A good indicator of slightly acidic soil on a site is beets. In this case, the tops of the root crop will be green with clear red streaks.

If the soil is acidic, then it will produce excellent quality sorrel, and the tops of growing beets will be colored a rich burgundy color. On such land you can also see lush bushes of plantain, cinquefoil and horsetail. Soil whose acidity level exceeds 4 units has a rusty tint and also crumbles in the hands.

Soil mixtures for cucumber seedlings

Cucumbers are an annual crop, and in the middle zone it is much more efficient to grow some varieties through seedlings in order to be able to harvest earlier harvests. To grow seedlings, you can prepare various earthen mixtures, depending on the availability of the components:

  • Sod or leaf soil + peat or humus + sand or perlite (1:1:1).
  • Sod and leaf soil + humus + river sand or vermiculite (3:3:1).
  • Sod soil + humus + sand (2:2:1) + about two cups of wood ash per bucket of mixture.
  • Sod soil + humus (1:1) + one glass of wood ash per bucket of mixture.
  • Garden soil + universal soil + river sand (1:1:1).

Read about how to grow strong cucumber seedlings here >>>>>>.

Read how to make soil for seedlings here >>>>>

Step-by-step instructions for autumn soil preparation in a greenhouse

Preparation of the greenhouse begins with removing the remains of previous plantings and eliminating debris. The sooner after harvesting this is done, the lower the risk of various diseases.

Assessing soil acidity levels

If the gardener does not know the acidity level of the soil in the greenhouse, then it can be measured using laboratory tests or independently, with his own hands (using garden probes - indicator sticks).


Since cucumbers love slightly acidic or neutral soils, it is often necessary to additionally lim the beds if the natural acidity level exceeds the specified standards.

Did you know? In Kievan Rus, a popular dish was “black fish soup” - meat boiled in cucumber brine with spices.

Liming can be carried out using various methods:

  • simply scattering 200 g of quicklime per 1 m²;
  • using dolomite flour in the same proportions;
  • using wood ash (at the rate of 300–350 g per 1 m²).

Determination of soil mechanical composition

Many gardeners determine the type of soil based on its color. However, such a method, from a scientific point of view, is considered erroneous, since it is easy to confuse some soils that are similar in appearance. The most accurate result in this case will be given only by laboratory tests, however, there is a proven method at home.

According to it, the following manipulations need to be carried out:

  1. The soil sample is moistened.
  2. Afterwards it is kneaded like dough.
  3. Next, the soil is rolled into a ball, which is then rolled out into a cord or “sausage” no thicker than 3 mm.
  4. The resulting “product” is then tried to be rolled into a ring.


Indicators for determining the mechanical composition of soil.
After this, the soil type is determined:

  • soils with a high sand content do not form either balls or cords;
  • the sandy loam rolls into a ball, but it will not be possible to make a cord out of it;
  • light loams form a fragile ring that falls apart at the slightest movement;
  • from medium and heavy loam an elastic cord is obtained; it can be rolled into a ring, but it will immediately become covered with cracks;
  • and only clay will make a perfectly smooth ring.

Cucumbers prefer light to medium loamy areas. If the soil available in the greenhouse does not meet these criteria, then sand will help correct the situation. In the fall, you can also arrange a drainage system using gravel and medium-sized branches and twigs.

Disinfection

The next stage of preparing the greenhouse is disinfection, during which the soil, as well as the metal, wood and glass components of the structure, are disinfected. The soil is treated with copper sulfate, spraying its solution to a depth of 5–7 cm.

Important! When disinfecting a greenhouse, it is worth remembering personal protective equipment. Treatment of surfaces and soil should be carried out only with gloves and a mask, avoiding staying in an unventilated area for more than 10 minutes.

To disinfect structures, use bleach (300 g diluted in 10 liters of water and allowed to brew for 4–5 hours). The resulting liquid is sprayed onto glass and crossbars, and the resulting sediment is sprinkled onto the wooden components and the cracks between them. When the greenhouse dries well, you can carry out additional treatment using sulfur bombs at the rate of 50 g per 1 m³.


The checkers are set on fire and the room is closed for 10–15 minutes. Smoke penetrates into those cracks and places where the solution or powder cannot reach, so the treatment will have maximum effect. If there are spider mites in the greenhouse, then you need to take a double portion of sulfur.

Soil preparation technology for cucumbers in a greenhouse

  1. In autumn it is necessary to remove all plant debris.
  2. Dig the soil to a depth of 20-25 cm.
  3. Treat the greenhouse area with a sulfur bomb.
  4. Conduct soil disinfection. If the greenhouse is new, it is enough to disinfect only the soil by spraying it with “Fitolavin” against bacteria and “Farmayod” against viruses. 3 weeks after treatment, add a preparation with live cultures, for example, “Biocomplex BTU” to the soil.
  5. If cucumbers have been grown in a greenhouse for years, it is almost impossible to comply with crop rotation standards. It is recommended to completely replace the top depleted layer of soil at least once every three years.
  6. To enrich the soil, sow green manure at the end of summer - immediately after harvesting. After about a month, the green mass needs to be mowed and dropped onto one bayonet. Read about which green manures are sown in spring and which in autumn here >>>>>>>>>
  7. In spring, apply completely rotted straw cattle manure at the rate of 40–60 kg/10 m2. Or add 400 g of ammonium nitrate + 2 kg of potassium sulfate + 3 kg of superphosphate per 1 m3. Or ready-made fertilizer for cucumbers in doses recommended by the manufacturer.

Read how to prepare compost according to all the rules here >>>>>>>>>

Preparing a greenhouse for planting cucumbers

To obtain high yields, it is not necessary to know all the rules of cultivation from A to Z. You need to take care of the cleanliness of the greenhouse, since it is this factor that will provide the plantings with protection from pests and diseases. It is necessary to carry out disinfection and cleaning in the fall in order to prevent harmful organisms from developing and multiplying, and also to prevent bacteria from entering the spore phase (in this form, protozoa survive an unfavorable time and acquire maximum resistance to any external influence). Disinfection of greenhouses, greenhouses and soil should begin immediately after harvesting.

Read about greenhouses for cucumbers here.


The room should be well lit and heated

Remove debris, plant debris (tops, shoots, roots) and other foreign objects from the beds immediately. It is better to burn everything to avoid the spread of infections. Under no circumstances leave any parts of last year’s crops!

Disinfection

After cleaning the greenhouse, it is necessary to begin disinfection. It is necessary to treat both the soil and all glass, metal and wooden parts of the building. The soil is impregnated with a weak solution of copper sulfate to a depth of no more than 5-7 cm. Treat the greenhouse structure with a well-infused solution of bleach (300 grams per 10 liters of water, let stand for 4-5 hours). Use the precipitate that forms in the solution for wooden parts and especially for the cracks between the boards. Spray the glass and crossbars with chlorine-lime liquid.

How to do dry processing

We move on to this stage immediately after disinfection. First of all, let the greenhouse dry out; do not add new soil and fertilizers until the boards are thoroughly dry. Also, the most useful thing would be to treat the room with a sulfur smoke bomb: you need to set it on fire and leave it in a closed greenhouse for a few minutes (or until it burns completely, this is at your discretion). After the procedure, ventilate the building. It is advisable to remove the top layer of soil to a depth of 6 cm.


Disinfection is carried out with a sulfur smoke bomb. The price is 65 rubles. per pack.

When using chemicals, do not forget about personal protective equipment. Be sure to carry out the procedure wearing rubber gloves and a mask. Do not stay in an unventilated greenhouse for more than 10 minutes after treatment.

Soil in a greenhouse for cucumbers

The soil for growing cucumbers in a greenhouse should contain humus mixed with turf soil, river sand, humus and peat (1: 1: 2: 5). For 1 m3 of this mixture add 3 kg of lime. If the greenhouse is small, it will not be wasteful to buy ready-made specialized soil for cucumbers. The introduction of special fertilizers that improve the soil structure for cucumbers is also necessary.

To fill the cucumber beds in the greenhouse, you can prepare some mixtures yourself, using your own organic matter from the plot:

  • Turf or garden soil
  • Leaf humus (except willow and oak leaves)
  • Sunflower husk
  • Wood ash
  • Sphagnum moss
  • Humus
  • Peat

Add organic matter to the soil mixture for cucumbers:

  • River sand or perlite, vermiculite
  • Hydrogel (necessary when growing in pots and containers on the veranda, balcony)
  • Slaked lime
  • Expanded clay

Composition of soil mixture for cucumbers

  • Sod-leaf soil (20 l)
  • Ammonium nitrate (8 g)
  • Double superphosphate (10 g)
  • Potassium sulfur (10 g)
  • Wood ash (3 tbsp)

Composition of soil mixture for cucumbers 2

  • High peat + humus + fertile soil + sand + sawdust (3: 4: 4: 1: 1)
  • For 1 m3 add rotted manure (3 kg) and wood ash (1/2 cup).

Ways to improve the soil

Experienced gardeners constantly improve the soil. This is especially true for crops that require special attention and care, like cucumbers.

  • Mulching

Peat, hay, rotted manure, and old sawdust are perfect as mulch. They will warm the root system of the vegetable crop, supply the soil with useful substances, and retain moisture from evaporation. In addition, mulch prevents the growth of weeds and allows cucumbers to grow and gain strength unhindered.

  • Increase in carbon dioxide content

This mainly applies to growing cucumbers in greenhouses. The plant loves carbon dioxide very much, and therefore it is recommended to place a barrel with fresh mullein in the greenhouse. In open ground, the content of this substance is increased by mulching the beds with fresh manure.

  • Fertilization with milk

Once every 14 days, cucumbers are fed with a milk solution (1:10). This composition promotes rapid rooting of seedlings and accelerates their growth.

After what crops can and cannot be planted cucumbers?

An excellent soil for planting cucumbers is the soil after tomatoes, corn, and potatoes. The most optimal predecessors for cucumbers are legumes (peas or beans). These plants release nitrogen into the soil.

Bad predecessors for cucumber are pumpkins (zucchini, squash) and eggplants. Cucumber does not like to grow next to cabbage. The recommendation to plant cucumbers next to sunflowers is quite controversial; supposedly some sunflower substances neutralize cucumber bitterness, and the stems of the plant serve as a support for cucumbers. Experienced gardeners refute this internet advice: cucumbers overwhelm sunflowers, both plants compete for sun and moisture, become very tangled and make care difficult.

How to treat a greenhouse from diseases and pests in stages

First of all, the greenhouse is cleaned. All plant residues are removed from it. They are removed from the site and burned. Pegs and old twine that were previously tied to the plants are removed and burned.

Supports, trellises, racks, buckets, garden tools, and water containers are removed from the greenhouse.

After the greenhouse is completely cleaned, it is inspected and treated for diseases and pests. The greenhouse frame is being inspected.

If the structural parts in the greenhouse are wooden (racks and others), then the attachment points of the posts, beams and other parts are checked. All damaged or failed parts are replaced. Wooden elements are checked for rot and mold. If present, they must be replaced. Afterwards, the wooden parts are treated with slaked lime.

Greenhouse frames and thresholds, shelving, garden tools, boxes, containers for seedlings are disinfected with a 5% solution of ferrous sulfate. Their surfaces are processed on both sides.

If the frame is metal, then it is checked for deformation and corrosion. Severely damaged parts are replaced, and traces of corrosion are processed and painted over.

Metal products affected by corrosion are treated with a rust converter or folk remedies (vinegar with lemon juice). After cleaning, they are primed and painted.

All possible cracks in the greenhouse are sealed with sealant or glue. Severely damaged polycarbonate sheets are replaced with new ones of similar size and thickness.

If there is a heating system or stove, it is checked and, if necessary, repaired. Heating pipes are cleaned and repainted with aluminum-based paint and drying oil.

Then, after the paint has completely dried, the greenhouse is thoroughly washed from the outside and inside. For washing, use warm, clean water and a slightly alkaline (3%) soap solution. Polycarbonate is washed with water on the inside and a soap solution on the outside, which can be washed off with a hose or sponge.

The soap solution is applied to all metal parts of the greenhouse (not freshly painted). After applying it to all parts, they are wiped with a damp cloth or soft sponge.

After checking and preparing the greenhouse, you can begin to disinfect it.

Greenhouse disinfection

Some pests and pathogens often overwinter in the greenhouse and therefore it, like the soil, must be disinfected. Most often, bleach is used to treat the structure. To do this, the frame elements of the greenhouse and polycarbonate from the inside and outside are treated with an infusion of bleach (0.4 kilograms of product per bucket of water).

The infusion is prepared in a cool room a day before use. After infusion, it is carefully drained and used for its intended purpose. The remaining sediment is used to treat hard-to-reach and highly absorbent parts of the greenhouse.

Instead of chemicals, organic agents are used for disinfection, for example, a decoction of pine needles or nettles. To do this, 0.5 buckets of pine needles (dry nettle) are filled with water, put on fire for 20 minutes and infused. After cooling, the infusion is filtered. The finished infusion is used to spray the entire greenhouse.

To treat polycarbonate from the outside and inside, a pink solution of potassium permanganate is also used. When working, use soft sponges or whitewash brushes.

If there is a strong spread of pests and diseases, the greenhouse is disinfected using a gas (dry) method. For this purpose, sulfur smoke bombs are used, for example: Fas, Climate, Green Belt. They destroy mold, mildew, pathogens, mites and other parasites.


fumigation with a smoke bomb

Fumigation is carried out in protective clothing and personal protective equipment (goggles, gloves, gas mask or respirator).

Before using checkers, the greenhouse is carefully closed. They are installed and fixed on the ground in the middle of the greenhouse, the wick is set on fire, after which you need to quickly leave the room. For 10 cubic meters of greenhouse, 2 sulfur bombs are consumed. It can be opened in 2 days. After treatment, the greenhouse is ventilated for 7 days, after which other work is carried out.

If there is rust on the structure, fumigation with a saber cannot be carried out!

Sulfur dioxide destroys metal. Therefore, fumigation is carried out as a last resort, in case of severe damage to the soil and structure by diseases and pests.

Having processed the greenhouse, you can begin to prepare the soil for planting cucumbers.

How to improve the soil in a plot for growing cucumbers in open ground

Dense clay soils are unsuitable for growing cucumbers, but they can be improved by adding raising agents and humus (manure, compost, humus).

Light loams practically do not need additional measures. On such soil in the spring, you can apply rotted manure at the rate of up to 6 kg per 1 m2 of land.

Sandy loam is light, permeable, but does not retain moisture or retain minerals. Suitable for cucumbers, but it is necessary to add compost or manure in the fall at the rate of 10 kg per 1 m2.

Sandy soil is not suitable for growing cucumbers because it does not retain moisture and minerals, warms up quickly in hot weather and cools down greatly in cool weather and at night. You can improve the soil with rotted manure or peat. Or, for every 1 m2 of land, add 2 buckets of finely ground clay, then add compost or manure and dig it up. The procedure is carried out annually for 3 years.

Peaty, swampy, light brown soil is not suitable for cucumbers. It is necessary to provide for water drainage. After this, half a bucket of sand, the same amount of clay powder and about 1 kg of lime are added to 1 m2 of land, depending on the acidity level of the soil. After this, the area for cucumbers is dug up to a depth of at least 20 cm.

Our master class will help you determine your soil type here >>>>

Read about how to improve the soil on your site >>>>>>

Preparing the soil and beds for growing cucumbers

Every year, the soil in greenhouses must be prepared for the season. It is recommended to use suitable soil, which should preferably be replaced with a new one every spring. This opportunity rarely presents itself, and the land used last season has to be prepared for growing cucumbers with your own hands.

The area inside greenhouses and greenhouses must be properly marked and the beds organized, taking into account the convenience for plant growth and care.

Fertilization and soil optimization

For high-quality soil preparation, it is necessary to take into account the crops that were grown in the greenhouse last season. It is not recommended to grow cucumbers in one place for more than 3 years in a row. The quality of the soil can be improved by planting green manure, applying fertilizers and adjusting acidity.

Predecessors and green manures

An important condition for obtaining a high-quality harvest is maintaining crop rotation on the site; it is recommended to change vegetable crops every 4 years. To plant cucumbers, you must choose an area whose predecessors were:

  • onion or garlic;
  • tomatoes;
  • bell pepper;
  • cabbage;
  • carrot;
  • spicy perennial herbs;
  • winter wheat.

It is not recommended to plant cucumbers in place of pumpkins, zucchini and watermelons. White mustard is planted as green manure, which is mowed after a month and mixed with the soil.

Adding minerals

The soil must be prepared 14 days before planting seeds or seedlings. For each square meter of soil add:

  • 25 kg of aged manure or half as much compost;
  • 40 g each of superphosphate and potassium sulfate;
  • 15 g magnesium sulfate;
  • 60 g of potassium magnesia.

The soil is dug up and watered with water at the rate of 10 liters per 1 m². 7 days before planting, add 30 g of ammonium nitrate and repeat digging and watering.

Liming

When liming, to reduce soil acidity, use:

  • limestone;
  • chalk;
  • bone meal;
  • cement dust;
  • wood ash;
  • dolomite flour.

The amount of substance applied depends on the acidity level of the soil and its mechanical composition. Since cucumbers react negatively to liming, it is advisable to apply these substances in the previous season, when predecessor crops are growing on the site. After processing, the top layer of soil is dug up. Liming is repeated no more than once every 6 years.

Using fertilizer

Rotted last year's manure is used as top dressing, which is heated by beating with a pitchfork 4-5 days before placing it in the greenhouse. The temperature of organic matter can also be increased by adding hot water, quicklime or very hot stones.

The manure is laid when it is heated to 65 ° C, placing it in a layer of up to half a meter. Evaporation continues for several days, organic fertilizer settles naturally and enriches the soil. A 10 cm layer of soil is poured on top using compost or a mixture of turf, peat and humus.

Preparing beds for cucumbers in open ground

Before planting in cucumber beds, the organic matter must be well rotted. It is recommended to add fresh organic matter to cucumber beds no later than mid-October. If the soil is light, rotted manure is applied in the spring.

Don't forget about using ash. It contains potassium and phosphorus in a form convenient for absorption, and therefore quickly passes into the soil.

For autumn digging, up to 8 kg of manure and 10 g of a mixture containing potassium are added per 1 m2. The digging depth in this case is from 25 cm. Organic matter increases the efficiency of mineral complexes.

In an open area, it is necessary to regularly change the place for cucumbers so that the crop is returned to its old place no earlier than after 4 years. But this is ideal, of course.


If you are growing cucumbers in a nursery container, transplant them into a permanent container after the first leaves appear. The sooner you transplant cucumbers, the better they will take root.

Under cucumbers in a greenhouse

If you plant vegetables in a greenhouse from year to year, diseases and pests accumulate in the soil. They must be disposed of in a timely manner. Therefore, much attention is paid to preliminary preparation, which is carried out in the autumn and spring periods.

in autumn

The process of preparing soil for greenhouses begins after harvesting and removing old canes. The tops must be burned, which prevents the possible spread of diseases throughout the area.

Then they remove about 8 cm of soil, in which pests have already settled, and begin digging and applying fertilizer.

Don't forget about disinfecting surfaces. Copper sulfate is often used for this. Labor-intensive but effective treatment of the soil with bleach (500 g per one and a half buckets of water, leave, drain the top water) will not hurt. They do this after digging.

Sulfur bombs are widely used as dry processing. When burned, acrid smoke is released, which kills germs even in hard-to-reach places. Sulfur dosage – from 60 g per cubic meter.

Organic matter is added before the end of October so that in the spring it can warm up the soil before planting cucumbers. You can also add rotted sawdust, which will improve air exchange.

in spring

Well-prepared soil must meet the following requirements:

  • Be free from trash and weeds.
  • Contain a minimum of acid or alkali.
  • Have the ability to retain moisture.
  • Contain sand, ash, organic matter. The latter, if not applied in the fall, is evenly distributed over the beds in the spring.

After the snow melts, it is recommended to spill the soil with warm water. If green manure has been planted in the fall, it must be embedded in the ground at least 2 weeks before planting the cucumbers.

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