Characteristics
The main characteristics of the Royal apricot variety are given in the table.
| Parameter | Meaning |
| Type of crop | fruit tree |
| Height | Up to 5 m |
| Bark | Reddish brown |
| Crown | Wide, round |
| Leaves | Green, matte, oval with a characteristic protrusion. Length up to 8 cm, width up to 5 cm |
| Fruit | Large, oval, velvety to the touch. The color is yellow-orange, with a characteristic blush. There is a clearly defined groove on the side. Average fetal weight – 35–45 g |
| Pulp | Yellow, juicy |
| Taste | Sweet, with a slight sourness |
| Purpose of the variety | Dessert |
| Transportability | Weak |
Drought resistance, winter hardiness
The drought resistance of the Royal apricot is quite high. Frost resistance reaches minus 20 degrees. There are cases when trees withstood even forty-degree frosts, freezing at the same time, but maintaining viability.
Pollination, flowering period and ripening time
Apricot is a completely self-pollinating plant, so it can set as many fruits as there were flowers. But not all of them will ripen; some will fall off soon after fertilization.
Apricot flowering begins earlier than all fruit trees and usually occurs at the end of April. Cold weather can make adjustments. Royal apricot ripens in early August.
Productivity, fruiting
Fruiting of the Royal apricot is annual and abundant. Productivity under good weather conditions and proper care can reach up to 150 kg per tree. In order not to prematurely deplete the plant, it is normalized by cutting off some of the fruiting branches.
Area of application of fruits
Royal apricot fruits can be consumed in any form. They are well suited for making preserves, jams, compotes, and can also be used for home winemaking.
Attention! You can read more about apricot preparations here.
Resistance to diseases and pests
The Royal apricot does not have innate immunity to pests and diseases. To get a good harvest, you need to regularly carry out both preventive and sanitary work to protect trees.
Advantages and disadvantages
In addition to being susceptible to diseases, the Royal apricot variety has a number of disadvantages. A rather tall tree creates problems during harvesting. The fruits have poor resistance to transportation. Its advantages are increased frost resistance compared to other varieties, high yield and good taste.
Description of culture
Apricot trees of this variety are large in size and have a well-developed crown. The yield is high, 45–50 kg per adult plant minimum. The tree begins to bear fruit at 4 years of age. Winter hardiness is average. Photo of the Royal Apricot below.
The variety is susceptible to diseases and is often attacked by pests.
Landing Features
Apricot planting should be done taking into account all the nuances associated with this tree. Its lifespan can reach 30 years. A mature Royal apricot is a large and spreading tree, all this must also be taken into account.
Recommended timing
The best time to plant apricots is early spring. The guideline is the air temperature, which should not fall below 0 degrees neither day nor night. Spring planting involves certain risks:
- too early may freeze the seedling if cold weather returns;
- late will lead to a long recovery period.
Choosing a suitable location
Royal apricot, like other varieties, requires light and warmth for normal growth and development. Even a slight shade negatively affects the yield, so the planting site should be open and sunny, but without drafts. It would be good if there was a wall or fence on the north or north-west side of the tree to protect it from the cold wind.
It is desirable that the soil where the Royal apricot is planted is light, loamy or chernozem with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction. Groundwater should not come close to the surface, ideally if its depth is 2–2.5 m.
What crops can and cannot be planted next to apricots?
Apricot does not like proximity to other fruit trees and shrubs. It is strictly not recommended to plant next to it:
- cherry;
- cherries;
- apple tree;
- peach;
- pear;
- Walnut.
Important! Even neighboring apricot trees are recommended to be planted at a distance of at least 4 meters between the trunks, otherwise the plants will oppress each other.
Selection and preparation of planting material
To plant Royal apricots, you need to choose seedlings two years old. Their bark should not be damaged.
Choose seedlings with a height of 1 to 1.5 m. The main and lateral roots should not be dry, broken or less than 20 cm in length.
Landing algorithm
It is better to prepare a planting hole for Royal apricot seedlings in the fall. If this was not possible, then at least two weeks before planting, no later. Its width should be at least 0.6 m, depth - 0.8 m. A drainage layer of 5–7 cm must be laid on the bottom, using crushed stone or broken brick. Drive a support into the bottom of the hole a little closer to the edge, and the seedling will be tied to it.
The soil removed from the pit must be mixed with humus or rotted manure 2:1. To the nutrient substrate, add 0.5 kg of complex fertilizer, for example, nitrophoska, and half a bucket of wood ash. If the soil is acidic, you need to neutralize it with lime or dolomite flour.
In the center of the hole, place the seedling strictly vertically so that the root collar is 5–6 cm above ground level. The roots are straightened and covered with soil, compacting it to prevent the formation of voids. The trunk circle should have a small mound along the edge.
Important! The root collar should remain above ground level.
Immediately after planting, water the tree with 2-3 buckets of water. The first year you need to moisten the soil regularly.
Reviews and advice from gardeners
Many summer residents have been growing the “Royal” apricot variety in their garden plots for many years and treat it with great respect. According to domestic gardeners, the variety really deserves attention due to such positive characteristics as high and regular yields, excellent fruit taste and sufficient frost resistance. Among the disadvantages are the low level of keeping quality and transportability of the harvested crop. However, this small minus does not make the variety less popular.
Subsequent care of the crop
Like any other variety, Royal apricot needs good care. Throughout the season it needs to be trimmed and fed. Here is the schedule for caring for him:
Spring. Before the buds swell, sanitary pruning is done, removing broken and dry branches. The standard is whitened with lime.
Urea, as well as ammonium nitrate and nitrophoska (50–70 g each) are added to the tree trunk circle. The tree is treated with pest control drugs, such as Akarin or Iskra Bio. If the spring is dry, regular watering is recommended.
Summer. Formative pruning of green branches is carried out to prevent the growth of green mass and thickening of the crown. In dry weather, watering is recommended. If necessary, seasonal pest control is carried out.
Autumn. Repeated sanitary pruning with removal of broken branches. At the same time, you need to collect and burn fallen leaves. The tree trunk circle is dug up, simultaneously introducing superphosphate, potassium sulfate and wood ash into the soil.
Only young seedlings should be covered for the winter. To do this, their trunk is tied with spruce branches and then wrapped in several layers of covering material. At the end of March, such shelter can be removed.
Learn more about pruning apricots in the video.
Diseases and pests, methods of control and prevention
Royal apricot is susceptible to the same diseases as other varieties. The main diseases of these trees are shown in the table.
| Disease | What strikes, symptoms | Methods of control and prevention |
| Cytosporosis | The bark of the tree is covered with numerous dark tubercles. The shoots gradually dry out and the tree dies. | In the spring, spray with Bordeaux mixture 1%, preparations containing copper. Infected shoots are burned. |
| Bacterial necrosis | All parts of the tree become covered with burns, then current ulcers form in their place, and the tree dies. | Treatment with Bordeaux mixture 1% or copper sulfate. Infected shoots must be burned. |
| Monilial burn | Young shoots become brown and dry out. | Treating the crown with Topaz or Strobi. |
| Phyllosticosis | The leaves turn brown, dry out and fall off. | Treatment with 3% Bordeaux mixture during the period of kidney swelling. |
| Clusterosporiasis | Red-brown spots on leaves and fruits. After 7–12 days, holes appear at the site of the spots. The fruits are deformed. | In autumn and early spring, spray the tree with 3% Bordeaux mixture. Before flowering, the tree is treated with Horus or Mikosan. |
| Gum flow | The bark has an amber-colored resin. | Cut off the gum and burn it. Treat the cut areas with garden varnish. |
Royal apricot is quite often attacked by pests. The main ones are listed in the table.
| Pest | What amazes | Methods of control and prevention |
| Aphid | Sucks juice from leaves. | Spraying with folk remedies - a solution of laundry soap, infusion of tobacco, garlic, celandine or insecticides. |
| codling moth | Caterpillars eat fruits. | Spraying with Decis or Inta-Vir. |
| leaf roller | Caterpillars eat buds and leaves. | -//- |
Advantages and disadvantages of the variety
The Tsarsky apricot stands out among others for the following qualities:
- high winter hardiness - up to -40 degrees, it can be grown where southern varieties do not grow (for comparison, Royal apricot can withstand only 20 degree frosts);
- self-fertility - it is quite possible to have only one tree of a given crop in the garden, this will not affect the yield in any way;
- compact low crown - this is convenient for care and harvesting;
- juiciness of the fruits - when fully ripe, the fruits have a rich taste and aroma, they are juicy, but do not lose density;
- transportability and long-term preservation of fruits.
Disadvantages include the relatively small size of the fruit. Those who decide to grow Tsarsky apricot on their plot should not forget that the variety, although unpretentious, will respond to care with a better harvest and taste of the fruit.
Pollinator varieties for the Royal apricot
Almost all varieties of apricots bred by Kramarenko and Skvortsov are self-fertile and do not require cultivation of other pollinating fruit trees nearby. And the Tsarsky apricot was no exception - its flowers are pollinated by their own pollen.
The buds bloom on this variety by mid-April, when bees and other pollinating insects do not yet fly, so pollination occurs only by the wind. Since this fruit tree is monoecious, just one apricot in the garden is enough to pollinate it.
But the main feature of the Tsarsky apricot variety is the vulnerability of the buds to spring frosts.
Since this fruit tree blooms in April, most of the flowers may simply die during a sharp cold snap.
Gardeners save them in the following way - during flowering, they cover the tree with plastic film or material folded in half.
This precaution does not interfere with the pollination of flowers, but saves them from low air temperatures. EXCELLENT VARIETY OF APRICOT!
Apricot Northern Triumph
The fruits of the Tsarsky apricot variety begin to ripen in the first ten days of August.
If the weather is cloudy or cold, the ripening of the crop may be delayed by 10-12 days.
Diseases and pests
The Tsarsky apricot has high immunity, so it is practically not affected by diseases characteristic of other varieties of this stone fruit. The tree is also not damaged by insect pests.
Even if preventive treatments of the crop are not carried out, the Royal apricot is affected by fungal diseases only in a very rainy season, or in the complete absence of care.
Useful articles:
How to improve soil, its fertility, composition, structure Soil salinity
History of variety development
Some of the most famous Russian breeders involved in developing new varieties of apricots are the head of the Main Botanical Garden of the Russian Academy of Sciences A. K Skvortsov and breeder L. A. Kramarenko.
For almost half a century, these botanist scientists have been breeding varieties of apricots that could successfully grow and bear fruit in the Central region and not freeze out in winter.
Photo of apricot Tsarsky
It is impossible to say that some of the apricot varieties they bred are the best and others are the worst; each of them is good in its own way. However, the Tsarsky apricot still stands apart; it is not for nothing that it received such a name.
This variety was bred back in 1986.
however, work to improve this fruit tree has been going on for many years.
When breeding Tsarsky apricot, seedlings were freely pollinated, and this procedure was carried out on several generations of trees. The work to improve this apricot hybrid was finally completed only in 2004, when this new apricot was included in the State Register of Russia. The Tsarsky apricot variety was bred specifically for cultivation in the Central region.
Brief overview of Tsarsky apricot - video
Interesting!
Over the time since registration, many summer residents from this region have planted Tsar's apricot seedlings on their plots, and according to their reviews, the best area for growing them is the Moscow region.
