Paratunka F1 cucumbers: description of the variety, features of cultivation and care

Description of the variety

The seed market first started talking about Paratunka in 2006, when the variety bred by the founder of the agricultural enterprise, Yuri Alekseev, was included in the State Register of Breeding Achievements of the Russian Federation and approved for cultivation in the Northern, Northwestern, Volga-Vyatka, Central, Middle Volga, North Caucasus and Central regions. -chernozem regions of the country.

Did you know? In Iran, cucumbers are considered fruits, and therefore the country has a tradition of serving these fruits with sweets.

The hybrid does not require pollination, since it is characterized by female-type flowering, that is, it is parthenocarpic. It is characterized by early ripening and high yield, as well as undemanding to growing conditions and rapid adaptation to climate change.


The cucumber bush is characterized by medium growth and branching. Its central shoots are not limited to flower clusters. The foliage is bright green, medium in size. The fruits are cylindrical, medium tuberculate with weak ribbing and a short neck.

The average length of cucumbers is about 9 cm, diameter is about 3 cm, weight is no more than 100 g. The vegetable pulp is not hollow, is characterized by a specific aroma and crunch, and tastes pleasantly sweet. The skin of greens is delicate dark green with medium hairiness and sharp light tubercles.

The fruits are suitable for fresh and canned consumption, as well as for pickling and pickling.

When grown, the variety painlessly tolerates sudden changes in temperature and is practically insensitive to pathogens of powdery mildew, brown spot and bacteriosis. Seeds have good germination, regardless of the structure of the substrate.

Parthenocarpic varieties also include such as “Real Colonel”, “Emerald Stream”, “Courage”, “Zyatek F1”, “Pasalimo F1”.

Advantages and disadvantages

  • The hybrid is in wide demand due to its advantages:
  • early ripening (the first harvest can be harvested 40–45 days after planting);
  • long continuous fruiting (greens ripen before the first frost);
  • good quality, versatility and transportability of fruits;
  • undemanding conditions and place of cultivation (cucumbers can be sown both in a greenhouse and in open ground);
  • self-fertility (female flowers form an ovary without pollinators);
  • satisfactory resistance of the variety to common diseases;
  • high yield.
  • resistance to bacteriosis
  • universal use

Judging by the reviews of vegetable growers regarding the cultivation of the crop, the quantity and quality of its harvest, Paratunka F1 has no shortcomings.


However, consumers expressed their wishes to reduce the price of planting material.

Important! Cucumbers are sensitive to drafts and cold. Therefore, when growing them in seedlings, it is better to place the container with sowing on the windowsill on a foam stand, and cover the seedlings planted in a permanent place with polyethylene in case the temperature drops.

Productivity

The hybrid tends to form 2-3 ovaries in each leaf axil. Under favorable temperature and humidity conditions for growing the variety, up to 16 kg of crop can be harvested from each square meter of field. In cold regions this figure will reach 11 kg.

For good fruiting of the crop, experts advise maintaining planting density, focusing on 3-4 plants per 1 m².

History of selection

Hybrid Paratunka cucumbers were bred by Russian breeder Yu. B. Alekseev at the beginning of this century. The basis for breeding the variety was the Parus variety, which is well known for its high productivity and almost 100% germination. The Paratunka hybrid was included in the State Register of Russia in 2006 and over the past years has become well known to vegetable growers from different regions of Russia due to its improved characteristics.


Optimal planting dates

Given the endurance of Paratunka, many vegetable growers practice seedling and non-seedling methods of growing it, but it is important to sow the seeds in a timely manner. Find out what the advantages and disadvantages of each technology are and what timing is recommended for planting from the table below.

Seedling methodSeedless method
Advantagesultra early harvesthealthy, stronger, less elongated plants; reduction of labor and time costs
Flawsmore weakened plants;
increased risk of morbidity;

the possibility of damage to the root system during transplantation;

in case of poor lighting, elongation of stems

reduction in yield due to late fruiting
Recommended sowing datesthe beginning of Junesecond ten days of May

Bush formation

The Paratunka hybrid requires different formation of the bush, depending on the growing method. The medium-sized and medium-branched bush declared by the manufacturer can reach 2-2.4 meters. The ovary is formed in the internodes in small bunches of 2-3 pieces. The Paratunka hybrid is parthenocarpic, therefore it does not depend on pollination by insects and most flowers are produced by cucumbers.

Since the bushes of this variety are quite voluminous, it is better to plant no more than 3-4 per 1 m² with the trellis method and 2-3 when grown without support.

Methods for planting cucumbers

The Paratunka hybrid differs from other parthenocarpic varieties in its underdeveloped root system and too long vines. These features are important to consider when planting crops.

Important! The presence of barren flowers in a cucumber bed indicates poor planting planning.

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Seedling method

Growing cucumbers in a greenhouse or under a film cover requires preliminary preparation of planting material, substrate and appropriate containers. Even minor errors at each stage are fraught with a decrease in yield and quality of fruits.

Soil requirements and container sizes

When using seedling technology, cucumber seeds should be sown in peat pots measuring 10x10 cm. This will allow the root system of the hybrid to fully develop and protect it from possible damage during transplantation. These containers are also advantageous because they do not require picking up grown seedlings.

The Paratunka F1 variety can adapt to any soil, but abundant fruiting is possible provided there is a nutrient mixture.

Therefore, vegetable growers advise preparing it from:

  • high-moor peat (2 hours);
  • mature compost, vermicompost is suitable as an alternative (2 hours);
  • humus (2 hours);
  • river sand (1 hour);
  • sawdust (1 tsp).


After mixing all of the listed ingredients, you will need to add to each bucket of soil mixture:

  • urea (1 tsp);
  • superphosphate (1 tsp);
  • potassium sulfate (1 tsp);
  • wood ash (1 cup).

Did you know? The cucumber, which is native to India, has existed for about 6 thousand years.

Seed preparation

The rules of agricultural technology for growing cucumbers in seedlings at the seed preparation stage provide for the following actions:

  1. Calibration - the procedure involves discarding empty and unsuitable specimens for sowing. You can understand their quality by pouring salt water over the grains. The solution is prepared in the proportion of 1 tbsp. l. for 200 ml of water. Poor quality material will rise to the surface and be eliminated when the liquid is drained.
  2. Soaking - carried out in warm water with the addition of any growth stimulant (Emistim, Kornevin, Ecosil, Acrobat MC). To improve germination, planting material must be in the solution for at least 2-3 hours. If desired, the procedure can be carried out using folk remedies by preparing a nutrient liquid from 1 liter of warm water, as well as equal parts of wood ash and nitroammophoska.

Seed sowing technology

Cucumber seedlings are grown at home according to the instructions below:

  1. Place drainage at the bottom of prepared containers (preferably made of expanded clay) and fill them 2-thirds with substrate.
  2. Place the pots in a wide tray on a south-facing windowsill and water generously with warm, settled water. After excess moisture has seeped through the drainage holes, give the soil some time to mature. Readiness occurs when the earthen lump becomes crumbly and does not stick together.
  3. Inside each container, place 2 cucumber seeds in the middle, slightly deepening them by 1.5 cm. This is done to ensure germination. If you are confident in the quality of the seed, you can sow 1 copy of Paratunka.
  4. Then sprinkle the crops with a layer of damp river sand or the soil mixture used and compact the soil with your palms.
  5. Using a spray bottle, moisten the contents of the planting container, then cover with plastic film or glass and leave in a warm place.

Important! If it is necessary to disinfect cucumber seeds, in the case of using potassium permanganate, do not overexpose them in the solution. 15–20 minutes are enough for disinfection. Longer soaking may result in poor germination.

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Seedling care

It is advisable to leave containers with cucumber grains in the tray. Before emergence, they should be kept in a room with a stable temperature of +26...+28°C. At this stage, root watering is contraindicated. All moisturizing procedures are carried out exclusively with a spray bottle using water at room temperature.

It is important to open the pots daily to air them out.


In the future, when the seeds germinate, it is recommended to move the tray to a sunny, but shaded, window sill on the south side of the house. All cucumbers love warmth and light, but in the sun they will stop developing if they get burned. Therefore, it is important to create conditions for abundant diffused light in your “bed” through natural or piece lighting.

To prevent the sprouts from stretching and becoming brittle, you need to provide them with 16 hours of daylight.

The room where the seedlings are located should be dry and warm. Optimal thermometer readings are in the range of +23... +25°C during the day and +19... +20°C at night. A few weeks after emergence, a gradual decrease in temperature is indicated for the purpose of hardening.

In this case, the permissible minimum values ​​are + 16°C. Please note that sudden temperature changes, as well as drafts, will reduce the growth activity of the stems.

The soil in pots should never dry out, so it makes sense to water the seedlings daily with small portions of settled warm water. If excessive waterlogging occurs, a break is indicated.

In order to strengthen cucumber seedlings and abundant future fruiting, it is advisable to carry out 2 feedings before transplanting the stems to a permanent place. Both of them are carried out using urea or chicken manure at intervals of 2-3 weeks. If desired, the “bed” can be fertilized with Effekton, protecting the foliage from liquid ingress.

Important! If the leaves on the cucumbers turn yellow, nitrogen will help, if the biomass looks pale, iron is required, and if the stems are elongated, superphosphate will not hurt

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Paratunka, like other hybrids, does not like the cold. Therefore, seedlings need to be prepared in advance for transplanting to a permanent location. To do this, you need to start hardening a few weeks before transplantation. The procedure involves a smooth change of growing conditions.


Pots with plants are placed outside in sunny weather. For the first time, it is advisable to do this for 15 minutes in the period from 16 to 17 hours, when the air has warmed up sufficiently. And in the future, the time the cucumbers spend in their natural environment is gradually increased. Hardening is not carried out in cold and damp weather.

Planting seedlings in a permanent place

The time to transplant seedlings into a greenhouse and into an open bed occurs 25 days after sowing, when 2 pairs of leaves appear on the stems. Usually these are the last weeks of May. It is important that stable warmth is established and the threat of spring frosts passes.

At the chosen location, first weed and loosen the soil, going down to 20 cm. Take these procedures seriously, because weeds should not bloom in the garden or greenhouse, and cucumbers will not be able to take root in hard soil.

In addition, during subsequent processing of the area with a hoe, there is a high probability of damage to the surface roots of the crop. If the soil is severely depleted, additional fertilizing with organic matter is indicated. It can be carried out at the preparatory stage of the site or at the time of transplanting the seedlings.

Important! You cannot plant Paratunka in place of cucumbers, as well as melons and pumpkin crops.

The process of transplanting cucumber seedlings is best carried out according to the following scheme:

  1. In the chosen location, make shallow holes up to 45 cm wide.
  2. Place about 40 g of compost or humus into the holes made (if you pre-fertilize the soil, this step can be skipped).
  3. Moisten the holes generously and place containers with seedlings in them. It is important that they are made from self-dissolving nutrient material, otherwise the sprouts will have to be removed along with a damp earthen lump. And this is fraught with danger to the integrity of the roots. In the row between plants there should be a space of up to 1 m with half-meter row spacing. Experts believe that, regardless of the technology for growing vegetables, there should be no more than 3 stems per 1 m².
  4. Fill the holes with nutrient soil and compact it.
  5. Since Paratunka is prone to growing long, branchy vines, immediately install a trellis.

Seedless method

In regions with a warm climate, you can sow cucumber seeds directly into the garden, choosing the right bed and waiting for stable warmth.

Selecting a location

When choosing a site for planting a hybrid, you need to pay attention to:

  • predecessors (cabbage, greens, carrots, onions, rhubarb, legumes and nightshade crops are considered the best);
  • illumination of the bed (should be in the area of ​​​​access to sunlight and protected from cold draft wind);
  • looseness and nutritional value of the soil (loamy and sandy loam substrates should be avoided; all varieties of chernozem are ideal);
  • location of the area (lowlands where rainwater and cold air masses collect, as well as elevations where moisture evaporates at an accelerated rate are strictly contraindicated);
  • proximity of plants (it is advisable to surround cucumbers on the north side with corn, dill and coriander, but such crops cannot be planted on the south).

Find out more about how to grow cucumbers correctly.

Landing technology

Considering Paratunka’s tendency to grow voluminous vines, it is important to maintain a distance of about 1.5 m between neighboring plants.


Planting cucumbers in open ground is carried out as follows:

  1. In the plowed area, use a rake to break up lumps of earth and level the surface.
  2. If there is no autumn feeding, prepare several buckets of compost or humus. Fertilizers can be scattered over an unseeded bed or applied directly into the hole with grains. In the first option, additional processing of the area with a rake will be required.
  3. Using a sapa, make deep rows at a distance of 2 m from each other. Make sure that the soil is loose. Otherwise, you will have to introduce defects into the site.
  4. Pour warm, settled water into the depressions.
  5. Sow seeds in rows at 1.5 m intervals.
  6. Fill the holes with soil and compact them.
  7. To speed up germination, cover the crop with plastic film.

Important! When the outside temperature does not rise above +16°C, there is no need to water the cucumbers, otherwise the plants will be infertile.

Features of care

The Paratunka variety has a superficial root structure and they are located at a depth of less than 20 cm. This complicates the supply of moisture from the lower layers of the soil. The plant does not tolerate drought, so in cloudy weather it is enough to water the seedlings once every three days, and in dry weather - daily. Water for irrigation should be warm.

See also

Description of the cucumber variety Artist, features of cultivation and care

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To increase the yield, growing cucumbers should not be done without fertilizing. It is better to start fertilizing the land with a mixture of manure and water in a ratio of 1:3. The solution should be left to ferment for a week, stirring occasionally. After fermentation, the infusion is mixed again with warm water in a ratio of 1:10. You can treat plants with slurry 2-3 times per season.

When forming 3-4 leaves on seedlings, you need to create a support. Soft wire or twine is suitable for this. The lower end is tied to the stem or to a metal hook stuck into the ground next to the plant. When tying to a stem, it is important not to tighten the knot too much so as not to pinch the plant. As they germinate, cucumbers cling to the support with their tendrils.

How to care for crops

For full growth, cucumbers of any variety require sufficient heat and moisture. Also, fertilizers, preventive treatments and soil hygiene will not be superfluous.

Watering and fertilizing

Vegetable crops react painfully to drought and excessive dampness, and therefore require constant monitoring of moisture levels. During irrigation, the soil should not dry out or become waterlogged. In addition, a common mistake many gardeners make is using cold water.

Together, these unfavorable factors significantly reduce the amount of harvest.


According to experts, you need to moisten the cucumber bed with a liquid with a temperature of + 22...+ 25°C. This recommendation is especially relevant during the formation of inflorescences. Therefore, always water your garden plants with water that has stood for 24 hours and has had time to warm up during the day.

The number of moisturizing procedures depends on weather conditions. To prevent sunburn, it is best to plan such activities in the evening.

The hybrid differs from other cucumber varieties in its greater need for moisture. Therefore, in hot weather, it is recommended to water it every day in small portions, and in cloudy weather, one moistening every 2-3 days is enough.

The quantity and quality of fruits can be increased through timely fertilizers. To do this, you need to infuse a third of the slurry in a closed bucket of water for a week. The prepared solution is diluted in half with warm water and watered over the plants, protecting the foliage from dripping.

An infusion of fresh nettle, which takes about 10 days to prepare, has also worked well. Fertilizing for this crop is important before fruit set at intervals of 2 weeks.

Important! With an excess of nitrogen, many barren flowers appear on cucumber vines. The situation can be saved by adding equal parts of superphosphate and nitrophoska. At 1 m

²
25–30 g of each substance.

Forming and tying a bush

In order not to disturb the crop once again, it is advisable to take care of support immediately when planting seeds or seedlings. It is a trellis with a multi-tiered rope tension. For such structures, soft wire or twine is suitable.


The stems of the plant require gartering when they form 4 pairs of leaves. Then the vine is lifted onto a support and carefully secured with a garter, without tightening its edges.

A properly formed cucumber bush resembles an inverted pyramid. To do this, it is recommended to remove stepsons and flowers in the first 4 leaf axils. In the 5th and 6th axils, only flowers are left, pinching off the side shoots. In the next 3 axils, flowering sprouts with 1 leaf and ovary should be left.

Moving higher along the stems, they form a bush according to the principle of smooth growth of foliage and flowers. That is, on the central vine, one is added every 3 leaf blades.

Find out more about how to properly tie cucumbers.

When the central lash reaches the trellis, it is tied up and allowed to grow another 20 cm. After that, the sprout is pinched. In the future, similar manipulations are carried out with the lateral processes.

Soil care

The longest roots of the hybrid reach 20 cm in depth, and most of the processes of the root system are located on the surface of the soil. This feature is important to consider when caring for the crop. After all, regular loosening of the bed will help improve the aeration of its underground part.

Do not allow the formation of a dried crust on the soil surface. It is recommended to periodically work through the row spacing with a hoe. This procedure will also be useful in the fight against weeds, which are the main competitors for cucumbers in nutrition.

After watering the plant, the soil of the bed must be mulched with compost, humus or sawdust. Coniferous materials cannot be used for such purposes, as they contribute to soil oxidation.


After transplanting, the seedlings are hilled to prevent exposure of the roots.

Did you know? Regular consumption of fresh cucumbers helps normalize the functioning of the thyroid gland and cleanse the walls of blood vessels from cholesterol.

Disease and pest control

Violations of the basic rules of agricultural technology for growing cucumbers, as well as unfavorable weather conditions, are the main causes of disease in the crop. In order to prevent the development of pathology, disinfection of bushes with insecticides and fungicides will be required.

Since in closed and open ground conditions the hybrid is often subject to attacks by spider mites, thrips, whiteflies, and aphids, one of the preparations “Aktara”, “Aktellik”, “Fitoverm” will come to the rescue. Treatment is carried out in accordance with the manufacturers' instructions by wetting the underside of the foliage.

During the season, 2 similar procedures are recommended.

Paratunka is characterized by increased resistance to common diseases, but, once in a poorly ventilated greenhouse, it can show sensitivity to the pathogens of powdery mildew, perenospora, cladospora, and anthracnose. When cultivating cucumbers in open ground, the risk of infection increases in the event of prolonged rains.

In case of fungal infections, as well as to prevent them, it is recommended to use the drugs “Skor”, Bordeaux mixture, “Fitosporin”, “Khom”, “Oxychom”. However, many gardeners resort to a proven folk method: they cut off the lower leaves from tied vines and wipe the bare base of the stem with their juice, after which they treat it with sifted ash.


To avoid the risk of infection, even under unfavorable external factors, experts advise:

  • ventilate covering structures daily;
  • protect the garden bed from drafts;
  • When watering, always use only warm, settled water;
  • When choosing a site, monitor crop rotation;
  • periodically inspect the culture for pathologies.

Did you know? In Sanskrit, the name of the cucumber is consonant with the name of an Indian prince, whose descendants, according to legend, number 60 thousand children.

Feeding

Without timely fertilizing, a hybrid, even one planted in soil saturated with organic matter, will lack minerals, especially during periods of active growth and fruiting.

Vegetable growers speak well of feeding cucumbers with an infusion of mullein or bird droppings. You can use ready-made complex mineral fertilizers according to the instructions. There should be at least 3-4 feedings per season.

Harvest dates and schedule

Those wishing to breed the early-ripening cucumber hybrid Paratunka F1 should take into account the abundant fruiting of the variety. The first harvest can be tasted 45 days after planting the seeds. But you won’t have to wait long for subsequent fruits, so don’t forget to check the vines every day when collecting greens.

The more often you pick fruits from the stems, the larger the harvest will be. Fruiting of this hybrid lasts until frost. Do not allow the skin of the fruit to turn yellow, because such specimens lose the tenderness of the pulp, aroma and taste. Cucumbers up to 7 cm long are optimal for harvesting.

Paratunka cucumbers are advantageous for growing due to their abundant and early fruiting. If you follow basic agrotechnical rules, the crop will demonstrate high resistance to typical diseases and pests, and will also reward you with fresh, juicy fruits throughout the summer.

Reviews

Reviews about the Paratunka F1 hybrid are mostly positive .
Cucumber lovers are especially captivated by the long fruiting and lack of bitterness in the fruit. Valery, Rostov : “For some time now I have increased the area of ​​my summer cottage and, accordingly, the crops.
I decided to plant more cucumbers. When the question arose of which variety to choose, I preferred Paratunka among the hybrids. Our family liked these cucumbers due to their long fruiting time and high yield. Fresh fruit salad was prepared almost until late autumn.” Galina, Novgorod : “All my life I grew ordinary cucumbers, I was suspicious of hybrids, considering them almost mutants. What kind of cucumber is it if nothing worthwhile can be grown from its seeds? My son and daughter-in-law have been growing the Paratunka hybrid for several seasons. And I became attached to it: the cucumbers are smooth, elastic, never bitter, and ideal for pickling. So now my opinion about hybrids is positive.”

Inna, Belgorod : “My husband and I grow cucumbers for sale. The Paratunka hybrid tolerates transportation well and is readily accepted by traders. We practically didn’t encounter any diseases, they also taste good: sweetish, with a crunch.”

Disease Prevention

The Paratunka hybrid cucumber is resistant to diseases, but if the rules of agricultural technology are violated, there is a risk of peronosporosis and root rot. Preventive treatments with Fitosporin, Bordeaux mixture, and whey solution are recommended.

To avoid fungal infections, follow simple rules:

  • inspection of plants in the greenhouse and in the beds;
  • watering with warm water;
  • protecting cucumbers from drafts;
  • avoiding waterlogging of the soil;
  • careful ventilation of the shelter.
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