Dahlias. How to choose the right place for planting and properly care for flowers

Caring for dahlias is an important issue for many gardeners. That is why this issue will be discussed in the article.

One of the most beautiful, bright and long-blooming flowers. Here is a brief description of perennial garden plants - dahlias. This flower has 42 species and belongs to the Asteraceae family or, as they are also called, Asteraceae. Its main advantage is that it blooms from May - July until frost. But you need to be able to plant them correctly and care for them, which is what information will be provided in this article.

What a perennial dahlia looks like: photo

In common or colloquial conversation, the name of a flower is attributed to the masculine gender, but in the professional sphere it is associated, on the contrary, with the feminine class. That is, the ending “a” is added.

Interesting facts from history:

  • The flower has two roots of origin. More precisely, its naming. The Latin version of "dalia" comes from the surname of the Swedish botanist Anders Dahl. But the Russian variation was obtained in honor of the geographer Johann Georgi from St. Petersburg.
  • This type of flower was first discovered in Mexico back in the 15th century. Then the plant was used as food and helped against many diseases. Its most common use is in the treatment of epilepsy.

Biological description:

  • Root system. In dahlias it is represented by root tubers or root cones. While the stem dies every year, the root tubers can live for several years. Therefore, the plant was given the status of a perennial flower. They have a thickened and fleshy structure. They do not have eyes that will give rise to shoots. That's why the next part is so important.
  • Root collar . This is the transition from tubers to plant stems. In this place, the outer part dies off and the rudiments of future shoots appear. Therefore, this is the most important part of the plant.

Important! When digging in autumn, you need to be extremely careful with this part; it must not be cut off or damaged. Otherwise, the plant will simply die completely.

  • Stem. They are straight and branched, and can be smooth or rough (depending on the species). The thickness ranges from 3 to 6 cm, and it is hollow inside. Therefore, heavy inflorescences and intense wind can easily break the plant. The height of the bush depends on the variety: Dwarf dahlias grow only 0.7-1 m in height
  • Medium-sized ones can reach approximately 1.5 m
  • But tall ones reach 2-2.5 m
  • Leaves. They are simple and sitting in pairs, somewhat reminiscent of feathers in shape. That is, they have a feathery type. Sometimes they can even be double or triple pinnate. Whole plant leaves are very rarely found. The length ranges from 10 to 40 cm. Large, slightly drooping, dark green or, less commonly, red-brown in color.
  • Inflorescences. This is the part of the flower that is difficult to classify under one form of description. The brushes have the shape of a basket, the size of which appears in the range of 3-25 cm. Their involucre is cup-shaped, fused at the base and consisting of 2-3 rows. Flower baskets can have different shapes, sizes and colors. The marginal flowers are reed-shaped and tubular in shape, quite large. But, depending on the variety, they may differ in range and configuration.
  • Variety:

    • Simple dahlias. Their flower stalks have one line of petals, up to 10 cm in diameter. The height of the plant reaches 45-60 cm.


    Simple dahlias

    • Anemoneaceae . They already have several layers of petals, in the middle of which their shape is slightly elongated and tubular. The diameter of the inflorescence is the same, but the height of the ground part can reach up to 90 cm.


    Anemone species

    • Chrysanthemum-shaped . The size of the plant is the same as that of anemone dahlias. The petals of the plant have a reed-like shape, twisted into a tube. Color can range from white to red, including yellow and pink tints. Reminds me of chrysanthemums.
    • Collared. The size of the bush is slightly larger - 75-125 cm. The inflorescences really have the shape of a collar. The outermost flowers have one row of petals of the same color. But the core has a different color with short and twisted petals.


    Collared dahlias

    • Peony-shaped. The inflorescences are slightly larger - 12-15 cm, with straight and flat petals along the edges of the flower and with a tubular, inner core. The height of the plant itself is the same as the previous type.
    • Decorative. The largest species, since the inflorescences can be from 8 to 23 cm, and the height reaches 60 cm.
    • Globular. The name speaks for itself - the inflorescences resemble a ball in shape, but sometimes they can be slightly flattened with double and tubular petals. The dimensions of the flower are 8-15 cm, the ground part is 90-120 cm.


    Globular dahlia

    • Pompons. They have double inflorescences of a round shape, the diameter of which is above 5 cm. A distinctive feature is twisted marginal flowers with a blunt and rounded end. Bush height up to 120 cm.


    Pompom look

    • Cactus dahlias. The inflorescences also have a double shape, with a diameter of 8-25 cm. The height of the stem reaches 150 cm. The distinguishing feature is narrow and pointed, twisted marginal flowers.


    cactus species

    • Semi-cactus . The dimensions of the plant are the same as in the cactus version. But the marginal petals are slightly curled away from the middle of the core. Nymphaeaceae . Very similar to water lilies. The inflorescences are double and regular in shape. Their diameter ranges from 7 to 20 cm, the height of the bush can be up to 135 cm.

    Important! There are even black dahlias. Or rather, red and black. The merit of this color is that the plant contains a large amount of pigment - anthocyanin. It is this that saturates the plant in red, blue or purple color. And a large percentage of it creates a black tint.

    Dahlias in landscape design

    Having learned about the main points about planting and caring for perennial dahlias, you can create a flowerbed of incredible beauty on your own site. Flowers look interesting in single plantings. In addition, they can be combined with other colors.

    1. Depending on the variety, experienced flower growers create various flower arrangements.
    2. Low-growing varieties are used for carpet plantings. They are also found in containers.
    3. Tall plants are an excellent decoration for a flower bed; they are placed along fences or near the house.

    Plantings of various varieties also look original.

    When to start preparing the roots of perennial dahlias for planting after winter: planting dates

    Dahlias are heat-loving plants. They are terribly afraid of drafts. By the way, take this into account when choosing a landing site. They need to be taken out of a cellar or other storage place when the earth is already sufficiently saturated with heat.

    Consider your latitude:

    • in the southern regions, tubers need to be prepared from the end of April
    • in a mixed natural zone this period falls in the month of May
    • but in the northern area it’s the beginning of June

    Important! The air temperature should not be lower than 18-20°C.

    Supports and garter

    Large flowers on overgrown bushes of tall dahlias can break off fragile stems. Wooden stakes, sticks and ropes are most often used to support and tie up plants. The support must be strong, its dimensions depend on the height of the bush. The standard length of wooden pegs is 1 m.

    It is recommended to install a support when planting tubers, so as not to damage them and the roots. The sticks are driven deeper into the planting hole, and then the tuber is placed on the bottom. Tie the stems to a support when they grow to 0.5 m.

    In the future, you need to monitor the development of the stems so that they grow evenly and do not bend to the sides or towards the ground. If the garters are loose, they need to be re-tied. Support is not required for border varieties and dahlias grown from seed.

    How to select the right dahlia tubers for planting?

    There is nothing complicated or supernatural in this process. It is necessary to remove dried tubers and remove damaged areas by cutting. The main thing is to treat the places of “trauma”. Most often, ordinary brilliant green, a weak solution of potassium permanganate, or ash are used. The last material should be carefully rubbed over the required area.


    Tuber processing

    • It’s better to place all the tubers in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes to 1 hour.
    • Experienced gardeners have noted another method - an ash solution. You need to pour ¼ bucket of ash with cold water and leave for a day. Top water and use to disinfect tubers. They need to be placed for 2-3 hours.
    • Those tubers that do not contain growth buds also require special attention. They are attached to a common center with thin roots. After planting in flower beds they rot. Therefore, trim them without regret; it will not cause damage to the bush.

    Soil preparation

    Dahlias prefer moisture-absorbing, structured soil, which at the same time has high water permeability. Wrong choice of soil very often causes the death of dahlias. You can improve the soil structure using organic additives:

    • humus;
    • fresh or rotted manure;
    • peat;
    • straw cutting;
    • compost;
    • turf soil and other materials that are easily decomposed in the soil.

    In heavy, clayey soils, to improve water permeability, add:

    • coarse river sand;
    • gravel;
    • ash (peat or coal);
    • peat;
    • coal slag (fine, sifted and washed).

    If the site is dominated by sandy soil that does not retain water well and is easily eroded, you can add to it:

    • vermiculite or perlite;
    • peat;
    • clay and other materials that help retain moisture.

    Tip: there is no need to clear the soil of gravel or small stones; such additives in any type of soil will not interfere with the normal development of dahlias.

    Dahlias are not too picky about soil acidity and can tolerate too much or too little of it, but they show best results in slightly acidic or neutral soils. But highly alkaline soils inhibit their development and growth. Before planting dahlias, you can conduct an acidity analysis in order to then bring it to the desired levels:

    • when the pH value is 4-5, slaked lime is added to the soil (30-100 kg per 100 sq. m.);
    • at a Ph level of 8 and above, the soil is acidified by adding peat.

    The place where dahlias will grow is plowed deeply in the fall - 30-35 cm. Then, 2-3 weeks before planting the flowers, the soil is dug or plowed again, paying special attention to harrowing and loosening.

    How to properly divide and process dahlia tubers for planting?

    After small shoots have appeared, you need to start dividing the roots. Some gardeners carry out this operation in the fall. But practice shows that in this case, the damage to planting material increases several times due to rotting or drying out.

    • The root, so-called “mother’s nest” must be divided into separate segments with a sharp knife. Each of them should have a root collar and 1-2 growth buds.
    • There is no need to leave extra buds. Otherwise, the planting will give all its juices to the development of extra stems, and not to the creation of inflorescences. Then the flowers will turn out small and weak.

    Important! If there are a lot of buds on one tuber, then it is better to cut the root in half. The main thing is to equally divide the root collar. In this case, you will get propagation of dahlias by cuttings.

    • After which, the tubers are again placed in pots. Now you need to ensure regular watering. The temperature should be reduced to 15 °C. After they take root, dahlias can be planted in open ground.
    • It is better to carry out the watering procedure using a spray bottle. Otherwise, the tubers may rot.

    Features of planting and caring for plants in spring

    The root system of dalia is represented by a fleshy root tuber, due to which seedlings develop. Preparing for a period of dormancy in its homeland, the heat-loving exotic loses its aerial part up to the root collar, and with the arrival of spring, young shoots awaken from dormant buds. Wild species overwinter in the soil, while cultivated species require rejuvenation by cuttings every 4-5 years.

    Moving to harsh climatic conditions dictated a new life cycle for the plant. After the first serious frost, the tubers are dug up and stored. Sometimes this period drags on for 7 months, so it is very important to ensure the safety of planting material.

    In order for the bushes to bloom earlier, the tubers are pre-germinated. But before this, you need to carefully select the planting material, process it and provide the exotic with suitable conditions in the garden. All the intricacies of growing crops will be described in detail in the relevant sections of the article.

    Is it necessary and in what to soak the roots of perennial dahlias before planting?

    Yes, dahlias need to be soaked 2 hours before planting. Most ordinary water will do. This procedure is necessary so that the soil is well saturated with moisture and the roots are easily removed from the container. If there are shoots higher than 10 cm, or additional sprouts appear, they need to be carefully broken off. Don't leave more than 3 stems.

    Important! Before planting, try to gradually move the plant into fresh air. Start with 10 minutes, gradually increasing the time by 50 minutes. This should be done a few days before planting in open ground.

    Selection of planting material

    In addition to the variety and size of inflorescences, when purchasing, you must carefully select planting material. Dahlias can be planted by seeds, cuttings (tubers) and seedlings.

    Seeds: The package indicates the dahlia group and plant height. It is very easy to grow a flower from seeds; it begins to bloom 45-50 days after planting.

    You can buy flower seedlings. The seedlings are quite easy to care for; you just need to water them on time. In the fall, many form nodules that can be preserved until next year.

    Most often, divisions (tubers) are used for planting dahlias in the spring.

    Selection of dahlia tubers

    When purchasing in sections, you need to carefully study the planting material. It is necessary to pay attention to the size of the tuber and the location of the renewal buds.

    1. Root tubers should be dense and elastic.
    2. A healthy tuber is light brown in color.
    3. There must be a piece of last year's stem.
    4. The root collar (the place where the root turns into a tuber) must be intact and intact. If it is frayed or blackened, the tuber will not germinate, since sprouts form in the immediate vicinity of the root collar.
    5. If the tubers are divided, then they must have growth points.

    It happens that the tubers are covered with young white roots. They can be purchased, but must be planted immediately.

    When choosing, you need to pay attention to the label and packaging. In addition to the picture (as a rule, the appearance of the flower is selected from it), the manufacturer puts information on the size of the flower on the packaging (indicated at the top in Latin letters) and the height of the plant is indicated.

    If the bag is too light in weight, most likely the tubers have dried out; you can try to bring them back to life by placing them in damp sawdust or water. Although this may not help. Therefore, it is better to refrain from purchasing such planting material.

    You should not buy:

    • large “nests” of root tubers - many leaves develop from them, but few flowers.
    • division with shoots - such a plant will begin to grow even before planting in the ground.

    You can often find old pieces on sale. They are easy to distinguish - they differ in size and have a wrinkled surface. They can be used for flowering. But you won’t be able to get new planting material from them.

    How to preserve tubers before planting

    Dahlia tubers do not like dampness and can rot from excess moisture, or dry out in a hot place. Until planting, it is best to store in a dark, cool place (for example, in the refrigerator, wrapped in damp paper).

    Tubers are also stored in boxes, placed on a layer of peat or sawdust. The top is also covered with peat. Tubers are stored well in sand.


    • @alrobertshaw73, Instagram


    • Dahlia 'Sweet Nathalie' @blushingbloomsto, Instagram

    How do you treat the soil for perennial dahlias before planting?

    Chernozem needs to start fertilizing in the fall. To do this, treat the area with humus. In the spring, the top layer needs to be mixed with compost and gold. To do this, start the rake.

    • Please note that dahlia loves neutral or slightly acidic soil. Alkaline soil can be amended by adding some peat moss in the spring.
    • Slaked lime will help reduce acidity.
  • Do not forget that for normal growth and immunity of any plant, the proper content of potassium and fluorine is necessary. You can use universal fertilizers or resort to folk remedies. For example, fishmeal solution.
  • Watch the nitrogen content! It is necessary for normal plant growth, but there should not be too much of it. Don't get carried away with nitrogen-containing fertilizers.
  • Important! Maintain crop rotation! You cannot plant tubers in the same place for more than 3 years. Spores of fungi and diseases, as well as remains of rot, remain in the ground.

    • Also, do not plant dahlias with asters. They are susceptible to the same diseases, so they can transmit them to each other.

    Place to grow dahlias

    Culture does not require much attention. Flowers can grow comfortably in shaded areas. However, their location can affect the size of the buds. In order for dahlia buds to be beautiful and large, you need to choose semi-shaded places. This will extend the flowering period without compromising the beauty of the plants.

    A moderate level of humidity is the only condition that must be observed when growing dahlias. Since the tubers of the plant are prone to rotting. This is why you should avoid planting plants in lowlands. Experienced gardeners advise making a layer of expanded clay or broken bricks on the garden bed before planting.

    As for the soil, you don’t have to worry about its structure. The bushes feel good on sandy, loamy soils, as well as black soil.

    Scheme and depth of planting dahlias in a flowerbed: description

    Proper planting is another important key to healthy growth and long flowering of dahlias.

    • You need to dig holes that are three times the size of the tubers themselves. Also note that you need to add 7-10 cm for fertilizers and deepening the root system.
    • The distance between the holes directly depends on the dahlia variety. For low-growing plants it should be 30-50 cm, but for tall or giant dahlias it should be 80-90 cm.
    • If the soil is very dense, then place some drainage at the bottom of the hole. One shovel of gravel or crushed stone is enough.
    • Humus, a little sand and fertilizer are also laid. All this is covered with earth and then watered well. You can also add bone and dolomite meal. A handful of ash will not be superfluous. The entire mixture should occupy half of the hole.
    • The tubers are placed in the hole so that the eye is directed upward. The rhizomes are covered with 2-5 cm of soil.


    Planting dahlias in a flower bed

    • By the way, for large bushes, immediately take care of installing support.
    • Seedlings need to be watered abundantly and only with warm, but not hot, water. When the shoots grow and the ground settles a little more, gradually add soil. Until the hole is filled to the top.
    • Be sure to mulch the soil. To do this, use peat or tree bark.
    • When the shoot appears, it needs to be watered as needed. Before this, watering is carried out a little more often.

    Characteristics of dahlias: varieties and varieties

    The culture can be roughly divided into annual dahlias (planted in flowerpots to decorate verandas) and perennial dahlias (placed in gardens and flower beds). Each group has its own characteristics, which relate to the principle of planting, appearance and care.

    Blooming dahlias

    Important! Basically, the difference lies only in the parameters of the aerial parts and buds.

    Perennial bushes are very tall and lush. They can grow in one place for more than 2 years. Annuals have miniature forms (usually a low-growing herbaceous base) and are sown as a temporary decoration.


    Varieties of varieties

    Another difference is the shape of the flower, which determines the main groups of varieties:

    • Simple - consist of 1 row of petals and an open center. Outwardly they resemble a colored chamomile. Basic varieties: Princess Marie Jose, Yellow Hammer, Orangeade.
    • Anemone-shaped - have several rows of marginal and internal petals. They include varieties such as Lucy, Vera Higgins, Comet.
    • Collared - have one row of marginal petals and internal, twisted shape. Varieties: La Gioconda, Chimborazo, Claire de Luna.
    • Peony-shaped. The name fully matches the appearance. The most popular varieties are: Symphonia and Fascination.
    • Decorative group - represented by varieties David Howard, Thames Valley, Jocondo.
    • Globular - Crichton Honey, Doreen Hayes and Esmonde.
    • Pom-poms - differ in different colors, among which there is only a blue tint. Varieties: Hallmark, Willo's Violet and Noreen.
    • Cactaceae – Visit, Danny, Pirouette, Doris Day.
    • Semi-cactus – Yellow Mood, White Swallow, Nantenan, Autumn Fire.
    • Nymphaeaceae - they are also called lotus-shaped because of their resemblance to the flower of the same name. Main varieties: Gery Hawk, Genette and Brushstrokes.


    Annual varieties

    The mixed group has the largest number of different varieties.

    What and how many times should I feed dahlias after planting?

    You need to take care of fertilizing in the fall. Then you should add fertilizer to the soil before planting. When you plant the tubers directly, each hole is fertilized separately. After which the feeding of the plants themselves begins.

    • The first feeding should be carried out no earlier than 7-10 days after planting. But the tubers must have time to take root. The safest and healthiest are mullein infusions. You need to dilute 1 kg of manure in 10 liters of water.
    • You can also use superphosphate and ammonium nitrate. Requires 20 g of substances per 10 liters of water.
    • Ash, which must first be kept in water for a day, has proven very good.

    • During the spring, 3-4 feedings are carried out with an interval of 10-14 days.
    • In summer, potassium and phosphate fertilizers are more needed. To do this, take 50 g of the substance and 3-4 handfuls of ash per 10 liters of water. No more than 4 such procedures should be carried out during a period.
    • The last feeding is carried out after the end of flowering. For this, potassium sulfate is used at a rate of 30 g of the substance per bush.

    Hilling and pruning

    Some gardeners believe that if you cut all the stems with one cutting tool, you can spread viral infections to a significant part of the collection

    Autumn hilling will protect the root system of the flower from possible night frosts. You can hill up the bush in the first week of September or at the end of August. The height of the mound at the base of the stem should be from 8 to 12 cm.

    Trimming the stem at a height of about 15 cm from the ground is carried out after flowering has completed, and each “stump” must be equipped with a tag with the name of the dahlia variety.

    How often to water perennial dahlias after planting in open ground?

    Plants are watered once every 2 weeks. Especially, monitor the condition of the soil in the heat and during the period of bud formation. If there is a lack of moisture during the ovary of inflorescences, then the flowers will be small and ugly. Therefore, during this period, watering increases by 1.5-2 times. After flowering begins, watering is reduced and done as needed.

    Try to carry out the watering procedure in the evening or early in the morning, when the dew has subsided. Also, do not pour water on the leaves of plants. On hot days this can cause burns. And excess moisture will lead to root rot.

    Feeding and fertilizers

    In order for the bush to bloom luxuriantly and not be attacked by pests, periodic feeding must be done during the growing season. Do the procedure at least 2 times a month. In order for the plant to receive all the necessary substances, you need to alternate the use of mineral and organic fertilizers.

    Infusions of mullein, chicken droppings, and ammonium nitrate are used as organic fertilizers. The bush will grow to full size if you add superphosphates or potassium fertilizers when the first two buds appear. You also need to plant the sprouts in well-fertilized soil. It is important not to overdo it with fertilizers, so as not to destroy the flower.

    Reproduction of dahlias: description

    There are five ways to propagate dahlias. One, the most common one, was indicated above - this is division by tubers. Therefore, we will omit detailed information in order not to repeat ourselves.

    • Division by tubers. It is worth adding just one more important information - this procedure should be carried out every year. This helps rejuvenate the plant and prevents the formation of small flowers.
    • Cuttings. This was also mentioned a little above. This method increases the ability of dahlias to resist disease. And it should be noted that the growth of the flower increases significantly. After dividing the tuber in half, it is planted again in the ground. It is important to ensure that the root collar remains open. You need to water constantly to keep the soil moist.
    • The temperature should be up to 25 °C. When shoots appear, reduce it to 15-17°C. At the same time, move the box with seedlings to a bright place. If the weather is cloudy, then you need to take care of additional lighting.
    • When the sprouts grow to 10 cm, they are cut with a stationery knife. This should be done obliquely, leaving a couple of millimeters at the base. This will allow you to grow several shoots.
    • After this, the cuttings are placed for three weeks in a moist substrate in separate containers. Make sure there is sufficient heat and light. During this period, they need to be adapted to the environment, gradually increasing the ventilation time.
    • They need to be planted in pots or containers with good drainage (2-3 cm of gravel is enough) and nutritious soil. Cuttings should be planted 2-3 cm into the ground, at a distance of 5-7 cm from each other.
    • At first, it is necessary to provide abundant watering. It is advisable to use a solution of manure, mullein or litter. After the first leaves appear, the cuttings can be planted in open ground or pots.
  • From seeds. This method makes it possible to obtain unusual and new specimens. Since the plant retains minimal varietal characteristics of the mother bush.
      To do this, cut off the inflorescences in the fall and leave them to dry in a dry and well-ventilated area.
  • When the seeds are ripe, they are removed and dried. In March you can already sow them for seedlings.

  • Dahlia propagation

    • Reproduction by grafting. This method allows you to create very large and beautiful plants, but, unfortunately, it is very painstaking. You need to take a healthy, but unsuitable for planting, tuber and the required cuttings.
    • Wash the root vegetable, dry it and make a cylindrical hole in it. And the stalk itself needs to be sharpened at the bottom. Then insert the cutting into the opening of the tuber.
    • The junction must be tightly wrapped with a cotton or woolen rope. After this, you can plant them in the soil.
  • Reproduction by sports. This method will help create new seedlings.
      If you notice an unusual bud on a bush, cut it off and cut lateral inflorescences 10-12 cm long from it.
  • After that, remove the leaves and root, as with cuttings.
  • They are grown exclusively in pots. Watering should be stopped after flowering begins. In winter, they should be stored in a room that is not too bright and cool. The optimal temperature is 6-8 °C.
  • In the spring they are placed in a warm and gradually ventilated place. With the onset of warmth, they are planted in a flowerbed.
  • Cleaning the area

    Cleaning the soil will help eliminate the possibility of transferring various kinds of diseases to healthy plants.

    Not everyone attaches great importance to this work, but in vain: the ground near the bushes must be thoroughly cleared of fallen leaves, petals, branches, and any other debris, since it is in them that various pests survive the longest, as well as pathogens of dangerous fungal infections that can destroy both planting material and plants planted in flower beds.

    Cleaning is carried out 2 weeks before digging up dahlias, keeping in mind that when the air and soil temperatures drop, the tubers become especially susceptible to infections. Autumn rains mean that pests that have settled in plant debris can easily get deep into the soil.

    Diseases and pests of tuberous and perennial dahlias: description, treatment

    There are many diseases that dahlias are susceptible to. But they all have a fungal, viral or bactericidal nature. Diseases and their treatment.

    Fungal diseases

    • Gray rot . It starts with brown spots on the leaves, gradually turning them gray. Then the entire plant is covered with this coating and it dries out. Cannot be treated! The outer part is completely cut off and burned. After harvesting, the tubers are treated with potassium permanganate.
  • Leaf spot. These are yellow or green spots on the plant's foliage. Its reason is too dense planting of seedlings.
      To cure the plant, you need to pick off the damaged leaves and treat the bush itself with copper sulfate.
  • White rot. She hits the stem, covering it with white fluff. Its spores are stored in the soil for 5 years.
      The plantings are torn out and burned, and the soil is limed. The main reason is heavy and acidic soil.
  • Fusarium kills the root crop of the plant. They rot and become covered with a pink coating.
      Cannot be treated. The plant is removed and the soil is treated with Bordeaux mixture. The plant cannot be planted in this place for at least three years.
  • Blackleg affects young seedlings. The name of the disease also speaks about the symptoms.
      For treatment, the soil must be treated with photospirin and potassium permanganate.

  • Fungal diseases

    Viral diseases

    Not subject to therapy. Plantings need to be dug up and completely incinerated. The land becomes unsuitable for planting flowers for three years.

    • Viral mosaic is expressed by light spots of irregular shape. Over time, they wrinkle and wither.
    • Oak mosaic is characterized by light green stripes on the leaves.
    • Ring spot - pale green oval spots appear on the leaves.

    Bacterial diseases

    They are also not treatable. The bushes are removed and burned. The soil needs to be treated with copper sulfate and lime. Plants cannot be planted on affected soil until they are 5 years old.

    • Cancer is expressed as white growths on the lower part, then they darken and rot.
    • Growth cancer is expressed in thin roots and shoots, which are observed in large numbers. Tubers cannot develop.

    What pests attack dahlias:

    • Aphids most often attack young seedlings. The plant becomes covered with a sticky coating, gradually turning yellow and drying out. It is necessary to treat with soap or garlic solution, as well as onion peel tincture.


    Dahlia pests

    • Slugs love dahlia flowers and leaves. To fight them, you need to place bait in the form of pieces of slate in the flowerbed. In the morning, when you find them, destroy them. You can also sprinkle eggshells or coarse sand around the seedlings. This will make it difficult for them to move.
  • Cutworms place eggs on the lower phalanx of leaves. Caterpillars appear from them and destroy the plant.
  • Thrips are black miniature beetles that suck the sap of plants. A characteristic sign of an insect attack is a silvery coating.
  • Spider mite braids the lower part of the stem and leaves. Over time, they turn yellow and dry out.
      It is possible and necessary to fight such pests. Any appropriate store-bought preparation or tinctures of wormwood and celandine are suitable for this.
  • Bush formation

    In the case when dahlias propagated by tubers, it is recommended to leave the two strongest shoots of each seedling, removing all the others as early as possible. Cuttings are grown, as a rule, in one stem, sometimes pinching the top above the third internode to make the bush fuller.

    For large-flowered varieties, a mandatory measure is the regular and complete removal of all stepsons formed on the stem - side shoots in the leaf axils. This is done as early as possible and as close to the stem as possible. If the stepsons are not removed, especially on the lower part of the stem, then the growth of dahlias slows down, flowering is reduced, and the size of the flowers decreases. In addition, stepsons located close to the ground often break off, and fungal infections can easily occur at the break site, which will cause the death of the entire plant.

    Removal of stepchildren is carried out regularly, from the moment of planting until the buds are formed. The side shoots are removed up to the internode preceding the one where the bud formed.

    Important! Dwarf, pompom, collared and small-flowered types of dahlias do not take stepson.

    Quite a few types and varieties of dahlias require removal of not only stepsons, but also buds. This is especially true for those plants that are grown for further cutting or participation in exhibitions.

    As a rule, buds on dahlia stems are formed in groups of three. The middle bud usually develops faster than the others, but at the same time it has a short peduncle, which is not very convenient for cutting. Therefore, the central bud is removed, after which the remaining two develop faster, have a longer peduncle and are distinguished by lush flowering.

    During the flowering period, to preserve the decorative appearance of the plant, faded inflorescences, which spoil the appearance of the bush, should be removed daily.

    Formation of low-growing bushes

    Almost all varieties of dahlias are tall - from 160 cm and above. If you need to get a low-growing plant, you need to follow this algorithm:

    1. At the end of February, parts of the tubers are planted in nutritious soil and placed in a well-lit place at a temperature not lower than +15-20 degrees.
    2. After the appearance of shoots, 1-2, the strongest ones, are left. The rest can be used as cuttings.
    3. Above the fourth pair of leaves of the bush, pinch the top.
    4. As a result, two stems develop from one, each of them is pinched back again after the second pair of leaves.

    With this pinching system, the bush does not grow more than 1 meter in height. The planting of such dahlias is carried out according to the general scheme.

    Rules for storing dahlia tubers in winter: description

    Large tubers should be divided into smaller parts. To do this, you need to arm yourself with a sharp knife, which should be preheated over a fire. This will act as a disinfection effect. Be careful with the molar necks - they cannot be damaged.

    • After which the tubers are inspected for the presence of red or yellow spots and other damage. Only whole and healthy rhizomes should be left.
    • The optimal storage temperature is 1-5 °C. Therefore, the ideal place would be a basement or cellar.
    • The tubers are placed in wooden sawdust. If there is high humidity in the room, then they are replaced with sand.
    Rating
    ( 1 rating, average 4 out of 5 )
    Did you like the article? Share with friends:
    For any suggestions regarding the site: [email protected]
    Для любых предложений по сайту: [email protected]