How to grow cucumbers in a greenhouse step by step + 4 different methods

Cucumbers are truly a folk crop, grown en masse by both experienced gardeners and beginners. Every summer resident wants to get as much harvest as possible, but for this you need to not neglect the recommendations. A procedure such as pinching greatly affects the number of fruits and helps prevent diseases. At first glance, it seems that it is quite simple to properly plant cucumbers in a greenhouse, but there are many nuances that we will discuss in this article.

What are stepsons and stepchildren

The cucumber plant has its own developmental characteristics. As a rule, one main shoot grows from the root, called a lash. It is on it that most fruits ripen (this is correct for self-pollinating and pancreatic cucumbers).

Side stems branch off from the central lash, which in gardening are called stepsons. Over time, they develop into vines as powerful as the main one, but the cucumbers that grow on them are of lower quality.

For their nutrition, the stepsons draw nutrients from the main stem, so all the resources that could feed the crop go to the growth of lateral shoots.

Pinching is the removal of side stems from the main vine. This event is not always necessary. If there are few stepsons - no more than 2 per bush, and they have already exceeded the length of 20 cm, then they can be left.

Along with pinching, pruning and pinching are carried out. All these procedures together make up an important cucumber care event called shaping.

Stepchildren

Side shoot of cucumber

Stepchildren are the side shoots of a plant that grow from the leaf axils. Pinching is the removal of these same shoots. This is done for reasons of expediency. All parts of the plant require nutrition. Beneficial substances are taken from the ground and distributed by juice along the stems and leaves. The lateral shoots also get their portion. Of course, the main stem and fruiting clusters do not starve, but by removing the stepsons, we seem to double the diet of the ovaries and fruits. And since our goal is to obtain a rich harvest, we resort to such agrotechnical techniques, helping the plant direct all its forces to the formation and growth of fruits. Pruning is carried out on cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes, and eggplants.

Important! Proper and timely pinching increases the yield of cucumbers per bush by several kilograms.

In addition to the main goal of obtaining larger and healthier vegetables, pinching helps give the plant the desired shape. Such thinned bushes are better ventilated and receive more sunlight, resulting in a reduced likelihood of infectious and viral diseases. On such cucumbers it is easier to see insect pests, which try to detect themselves as little as possible. As a result of the removal of side shoots, the growing season of the plant also increases.

Stepping is not always carried out. So, when growing cucumbers in open ground, you can do without this procedure. The owner of the garden decides for himself whether to plant cucumber vines or not. If there is enough space and the technology for forming beds is followed, then you can leave it as is.

Removing cucumber shoots in a greenhouse

Pruning of side shoots is required for greenhouse plants. As they grow, the long vines of cucumbers begin to block the light from each other. Large green mass at elevated temperatures and humidity, which often happens in a polycarbonate greenhouse, is more susceptible to the invasion of harmful insects and the occurrence of various fungal diseases.

Therefore, we remember the famous and decisive: “Cut without waiting for peritonitis!”, And we are engaged in stepsoning. It is better to form a greenhouse plant with one stem. Or purchase seed material that produces few side shoots.

Important! Overgrown stepsons (more than 20 cm) should not always be removed. If there are only 1-2 shoots per bush, then cutting them off will not affect the main vine.

But removing a large number of overgrown stepsons can cause the cucumber to shed its flowers and already formed ovaries. When solving the problem with such large stepsons, it may be more advisable to pinch the central lash.

Why is it necessary to plant cucumbers in a greenhouse?

Carrying out this event requires spending a certain amount of labor and time. Stepping is carried out in several stages.

Neglect of plantings

The main attention should be paid to plants in the greenhouse and greenhouse. There are two reasons for this:

1. The space is small.
2. Good conditions affect the rapid growth of plants, and you may miss the favorable moment for pinching. If the case is neglected, you can lose the entire harvest.

What difficulties may arise when growing greenhouse cucumbers?

To save yourself from possible difficulties associated with pinching cucumber vines, I advise you to pay attention to these recommendations:

1. Combine pinching with the removal of dry foliage - it no longer performs a useful function, but only shades the plant. If you come across diseased shoots or branches, after cutting them, do not forget to disinfect the tool with a fungicidal preparation.
2. You don't need a special tool for pinching - use clean hands, pinching the fragile young shoots with your nails. If the lashes have become rough, use disinfected sharp pruning shears and garden shears.
3. To make the plant more easily survive the stress of removing the shoots, it is watered not with ordinary water, but with a weak solution of mineral or organic fertilizer. Watering is carried out immediately after pinching.
4. If you tie the lashes to the supports artificially, the plant does not need “whiskers” - they are pinched together with the stepsons. This procedure will help save plant resources and achieve better illumination of the bush.
5. Carry out pinching very carefully - it is important not to damage the leaf sinuses. To restore injured tissues, the bush requires a lot of effort.
6. Use soft natural material for tying - linen, cotton. I use hemp rope.

If after pinching the cucumbers remain tasteless and bitter, I recommend the following:

1. Increase the illumination of the plantings - remove obstacles that shade the main stem with greens.
2. Water the plantings daily in the morning.
3. Remove weak, diseased bushes that disturb neighbors.
4. Weed the greenhouse in a timely manner.
5. Don't forget to mulch the beds.

Timely and correct pinching is the key to a rich harvest and tasty cucumbers. You can choose any procedure scheme you like. The main thing is to remove all lateral shoots that interfere with the plant and provide it with quality care after pinching.

Timing for pinching cucumbers in a greenhouse

In order to have time to plant cucumbers in a greenhouse (whether made of polycarbonate or any other material) on time, you need to constantly pay attention to how the shoots grow. If the bush has grown to 40 cm and 5 leaves have appeared on it, then it is time to remove unnecessary side shoots. Their length at this time is usually about 5 cm.

When calculating the timing of the first stepson, you should not check the lunar calendar or specific dates. The main role here is played by the speed of escape development.

Topping

Pinching also affects the growth of stepsons. If you remove the growing point from the central vine too early, then all the plant’s resources will go to the formation of stepsons, which will lead to an increase in the number of leaves.

The need for stepsons

Stepchildren are called lateral branches on a cucumber bush, growing from the axil between the main stem and leaf. Pinching is cutting off unnecessary side shoots. Vegetable growers have differing opinions regarding the need for this procedure. Some believe that pinching does not improve plant development and can be done without it. Others are confident in the increase in yield after removing excess side branches.

During the growth of the cucumber bush, one central stem is formed. Most of the fruits ripen on it. As the lateral stem lengthens, lateral branches are separated from it, taking away part of the plant’s forces for their development.

Important! Greens also form on the stepsons. Their number depends on the care of the plant and varietal characteristics. In most cases, the quantity and taste of such fruits is much inferior to the fruiting of the central stem.

When pinching, unnecessary side branches are sequentially removed. This procedure prevents wasting nutrients and energy on the development of useless green mass. Therefore, the saved resources are redistributed to maintaining the strength and development of the main part of the plant, which produces many large fruits.

Subtleties of pinching

The cucumber bush develops gradually, and the gardener will have to carry out pinching at least three times. The fact is that the plant constantly produces new shoots from the leaf axils.

For pinching you need a convenient sharp tool. An ordinary stationery knife or scissors will do.

You should not cut off the side shoot close to the main vine; you must leave at least half a centimeter. The procedure must be carried out very carefully to prevent damage to the main shoot.

Possible mistakes

Thinning pruning of cucumbers is carried out carefully, trying not to damage the ovaries or leaves. For convenience, you can use scissors or a stationery knife. These tools make a neat cut. They are first disinfected to prevent the possible spread of infection.

The procedure should not be performed too early. Pruning begins after 5 true leaves appear on the young bush. Starting work too early only harms the development of the plant. Late removal of side shoots causes severe injury to the plant. Therefore, breaking off unnecessary branches is carried out when they reach a length of 2-3 cm.

Thinning a bush is stressful for the plant. Therefore, after the procedure, it is recommended to water it with warm water. It is better to use settled liquid heated by the sun's rays for irrigation. Do not water cucumbers directly from a hose with cold tap water.

Important!

If the pinching scheme is not followed, the bush develops incorrectly and the yield decreases. Therefore, you cannot stop forming bushes halfway.

The essence of pinching cucumbers in closed ground (greenhouse)

The main task is to redirect the plant’s resources to the main vine, removing the side stems in time. It is important not to miss the moment and carry out the procedure at the stage of formation of stepsons, preventing their growth.

It is necessary to adhere to the rules, but you also need to pay attention to the condition of each specific plant. Weakened or diseased bushes should not be pruned yet.

Read about growing, the intricacies of planting and caring for cucumbers in a greenhouse on our portal https://mrdachnik.com.

How to get an extra harvest in a greenhouse

Proper formation of cucumber plants allows you to harvest a harvest 2–4 times larger from the same area.

However, this agrotechnical technique is effective only if the remaining rules for caring for cucumbers are followed:

• seed material must be of high quality and, if necessary, treated before sowing against infections and for accelerated germination;
• calendar dates and planting patterns (distance between plants) must be observed;
• Regular application of fertilizers is one of the most important factors in increasing crop yields.

Growing cucumbers in a greenhouse step by step for beginners

Step-by-step instruction:

Stage 1. Tie up the bush, attach the other end of the twine to the trellis.

Stage 2. Carry out when the height of the bush reaches approximately 40 cm. Carefully cut off the side shoots from the leaf axils. It doesn’t matter whether they have ovaries or not, the stepsons must be removed. Up to 40 cm, there should not be a single lateral shoot on the central shoot. After pruning, water the bush well with heated water and loosen the soil.

Stage 3. This is carried out when the length of the bush increases by another 35-40 cm. It is necessary to remove the four lower leaves (pruning), as well as the side stepsons.

Stage 4. The cucumber bush has reached 80 cm, and there are no leaves or side stems on its entire lower part. The main load falls on the upper part of the lash, where it is necessary to leave one flower at each leaf axil. Remove all others.

At this stage, the lower part of the lash is bare, on the upper part there are from 3 to 5 leaves, one flower grows near each of them.

Stage 5. We wait until the central lash grows another 35-40 cm. Next stepsons are formed on it. Now there is no need to remove them. On each side shoot we leave no more than two leaves with a flower, and pinch the end (pinching procedure).

Stage 6. The height of the bush now reaches one and a half meters. New shoots at this stage do not need to be removed, but the lateral shoots can be lowered to the soil. You can wrap the side lashes around the supports.

The photo below clearly shows how to plant cucumbers in a greenhouse:

If you notice a slowdown in growth and a decrease in yield, fertilize the soil using ash and peat-based fertilizer.

How to pick cucumbers - two ways

As we found out, to get a good harvest, excess shoots must be removed. There are two ways to do this.

1. We remove all excess shoots that grow from the axils from the nodal loop of the main part.
2. We remove the side shoots from the axils of the first 5-6 leaves, as well as the ovaries in the first 3-4.

The second option is suitable when the cucumbers are planted freely, as this allows the formation of a lush bush.

If the plants are planted densely, the first option is suitable. The plant will then stretch upward.

It is most effective to remove excess shoots when they reach a size of 3-6 cm. It makes no sense to do this earlier, and later it leads to loss of yield.

How cucumbers differ by type of branching

The cucumber bush forms a long vine, which in a greenhouse can reach 5 meters. Primary shoots extend from it, on which secondary lashes are formed. If this process is not controlled, there will be an excessive number of leaves, and as a result, a lack of sunlight and nutrients.

All cucumbers can be divided into several types based on the type of branching.

Depending on the type of branching, it will depend on how much time you need to devote to caring for the formation of the cucumber. For example, with weak ones, they practically do not require pinching and the harvest is produced in a short time. Like active self-regulating, but its fruiting is extended.

How to properly pinch plants step by step?

The general rules for pinching cucumbers in a greenhouse are as follows:

1. At a height of 30-50 cm from the ground, all shoots, flowers, and a little later, leaves should be removed. We talked about this above.
2. The main lash is pinched at a distance of 50-60 cm from the point of attachment to a trellis or other support. Growing vines no longer makes practical sense.
3. Remember those side shoots you left growing after cutting? Pinch the lower ones at a distance of 30-40 cm from the main stem. The upper ones are at a distance of 40-50 cm from the main stem.

General pinching scheme

Features of varieties pollinated by bees

Varieties that are pollinated by bees have both female and male flowers. In this case, male inflorescences grow on the main vine and almost all are empty flowers. Female inflorescences grow on the lateral shoots.

Therefore, in pollinated varieties, you need to pinch the main vine. The procedure must be carried out after the appearance of 5 true leaves. You also need to remove almost all barren flowers. Leave just a few pieces.

Features of self-pollinating varieties

Self-pollinating varieties are distinguished by the fact that they do not need bees to form ovaries. They have a large number of female inflorescences and very few male inflorescences.

Pinching parthenocarpic cucumbers is generally carried out according to the following scheme:

1. on the lower part of the bush, shoots, ovaries, flowers and even small cucumbers are completely removed. Don’t be afraid to cut them, the harvest will not suffer from this;
2. the first side shoots are left at a height of 80-100 cm. All of them need to be cut off except 2 ovaries and 2 leaves;
3. after another half a meter, 4 ovaries and 4 leaves are left on the side shoots.

REFERENCE. Since access to the greenhouse is difficult for bees, mainly parthenocarpic, that is, self-pollinating varieties and hybrids of cucumbers are usually planted in protected soil. Consider this fact when purchasing seeds.

Parthenocarpic cucumbers

Schemes for growing cucumbers in a greenhouse

There are several options for carrying out this procedure. They all have a certain effect.

In this case, it is necessary to take into account not only what type of branching the selected variety belongs to, but also how the flowering distribution occurs. For example, ordinary bee-pollinated varieties have only male flowers on the main stem, and all female flowers form ovaries on the side shoots. New hybrid varieties have female flowers on the central stem, and if you apply the old old-fashioned method of pinching the main stem to them, you will lose the harvest and no amount of fertilizing will help.

The final choice of scheme remains at the discretion of the gardener.

Let's take a closer look at these diagrams.

“Grandfather’s” scheme of pinching with pinching of the main lash

This option is suitable for bee-pollinated cucumber varieties with active and excessive branching. It has stood the test of time and has been actively used by gardeners for many years.

• All shoots that appear before the 4th leaf are removed.
• After 7-9 leaves are formed, the main stem is pinched. Three strong lateral processes are left, the rest are removed.
• 4 nodes are left on each side lash and pinched. This leaves 12 nodes where the crop is formed.

When forming a cucumber in this way, it is better to use a net along which the side shoots will grow.

Classic scheme for growing cucumbers in a greenhouse

This scheme is suitable for bee-pollinated and parthenocarpic hybrids with active and limited branching.

Having chosen this option, you must act following the following algorithm.

1. Wait until the plant grows to half a meter and forms the first 3-4 leaves. At this time, all the side stems and buds of the ovaries are cut off, but the leaves remain.
2. The plant has reached a height of 1 meter - it’s time to remove the lower leaves, from which the stepsons were already removed at the first stage. On the upper part of the lash there remains one ovary for each leaf axil.
3. The height of the plant is up to one and a half meters. On the side shoot (about 50 cm) two leaves and two ovaries remain, the rest is removed.
4. Next, leave 3 knots. After the bush reaches a height of about 200 cm, pinching is not carried out.

There is no further need to interfere with the development of the cucumbers; you can throw it over the trellis. Another option is to pinch (tear off) the main lash. It is important to organize fertilizing and collect ripe fruits on time.

"Danish Umbrella"

Parthenocarpic varieties that are grown on a trellis are formed using the “Danish umbrella” method. It is suitable for experienced gardeners.

The scheme is as follows: the central lash is divided into three parts.

The first one is from sheets 1 to 5.

The second is from sheets 5 to 9.

The third is from sheets 9 to 20.

• In the first part, everything is removed - both the stepsons and the ovaries.
• In the second part, all stepsons are removed. One ovary is left for each node.
• In the third part, up to the 13th leaf, you need to leave 2 ovaries in each axil.
• 14 sinus - here the ovaries are removed, the stepson remains. After two leaves appear on it, the growth point of the stepson is pinched.
• Up to the 20th sinus, two short stepsons remain according to the same principle. There must be at least one node between them.
• In the axil of the 20th leaf, the stepson is left to grow. After 8 leaves grow on it, the growth point is pinched.
• Now the central lash needs to be thrown over the trellis.
• Next, you need to count the leaves from the top of the vine. The stepson is allowed to grow from the axil of the second leaf until 5 leaves are formed on it, then it is pinched.
• From the continuation lashes, three stepchildren of the second stage are allowed to grow. After the third leaf, the growing point on them is removed.

The main advantage of this method is simple plant care. The minimum number of leaves remains in the lower part, the entire crop is located at the top.

Scheme "One lash"

Bouquet and bunch parthenocarpic varieties allow formation into one vine. Only leaf axils and ovaries remain on it. All stepsons are subject to removal.

This option is not suitable for bee-pollinated varieties. The fact is that male flowers are formed in the axils of the central stem, and female flowers on the stepsons. Pruning the stepsons will deprive the gardener of the harvest.

• Up to 4 axils, all lateral stems and ovaries must be removed.
• From 4 to 17 leaves, the side shoots are removed, but the ovaries are left.
• The stepsons formed between the 18th and 20th axils are pinched so that 2 leaves remain on them.

The grown plant is wrapped around a trellis and waited until it grows to the neighboring bush. Then the top is pinched.

Do not forget! Cucumbers in the greenhouse need to be tied up. It is very convenient to use a mesh (trellis) for this. Read about this and other methods of tying on our website Mister Summer Resident.

When is stepsoning carried out?

Timely pinching is necessary for several reasons:

1. Overgrown plants shade each other and compete for vital elements.
2. Cramped plantings are a favorable environment for the proliferation of pests and the spread of pathogens.

Traditionally, pinching is carried out in the first half of summer. Only for late-ripening varieties the procedure is shifted to the second decade of July - August. Another guideline for the first pinching is the appearance of 5-8 leaf nodes on the main stem.

If you traditionally planted seedlings in greenhouses in the first ten days of May, then the final pinching will take place in the second ten days of July. Only 1-2 side shoots are left on the main lash. At the same time, pinch out dried, damaged, deformed leaves.

The treatment is completed by adding peat and stove ash under each bush. Plants are watered with a solution of herbal infusion.

Cucumber varieties and hybrids that do not require pinching

Breeders regularly develop new varieties that do not require careful care. There are types of cucumbers that do not need to be pinched. This inscription can be seen on many seed bags.

Variety Alphabet

Variety Bouquet

Variety Regina Plus

Variety True Friends

The most popular are:

• Alphabet F1. This gherkin has few branches, cucumbers grow in bunches. First, the ripened fruits are collected from the main vine, then the cucumbers begin to form small lateral shoots.
• Bouquet F1. Stepchildren practically never appear. An additional advantage is good immunity to various diseases.
• Regina-Plus F1 is an early ripening gherkin variety. Resistant to diseases, forms few lateral shoots.
• True friends of F1. This hybrid forms cucumbers in a bunched manner; there are few stepsons. Up to 8 cucumbers appear from each sinus.

Short stepsons appear on cucumber varieties such as Valdai F1, Gribovchanka F1, Vyuga F1, Severyanin F1, Sarovsky F1, Petrovsky F1.

Variety True Friends Variety Severyanin Variety Gribovchanka Variety Sarovsky

All other varieties will have to be planted in order to enjoy an excellent harvest.

Which greenhouse varieties do not require pinching?

Not all cucumbers need to be pinched. It all depends on the specific variety. There is no need to stepchild the following varieties and hybrids:

• Snowstorm;
• Valdai;
• Petrovsky F1;
• Northerner;
• Gribovchanka;
• Saratov F1, etc.

Signs of cucumber varieties that do not need to be pinched:

• Form one vine;
• They grow as bushes, not as vines;
• They have a female type of flowering;
• They form small side shoots and do not grow.

If you still have little experience in gardening, and you have little understanding of the numerous varieties and hybrids, then when buying cucumber seeds in the store, just ask for varieties with limited growth of lateral shoots for greenhouses.

Caring for cucumbers during and after the pinching procedure

Cucumbers tolerate this procedure well, however, it is worth supporting the plants with fertilizing. Watering and ventilating the greenhouse should not be neglected.

Treating bushes with Oxychome, which contains copper, is also good. The solution of the drug should be sprayed on the shoots, this will prevent the appearance of fungal diseases, since spores can get into the injured stem.

What needs to be done after stepsoning:

• Water the bushes with warm water. To do this, be sure to fill the barrel or other large container in advance and allow the water to warm up in the sun.
• Don't forget about weeding.
• Remove all weakened and damaged leaves, as well as those that show signs of disease.
• Harvest ripe fruits in a timely manner.
• Additionally fertilize the soil.

How to care after the procedure

Each pinching is stress for the plants. Further proper care will help cucumbers cope with it. You can help them:

• watering - it is advisable to use warm water, which after running the water supply has warmed up a little outside;
• loosening - to break up the hard crust into which the soil near the roots quickly turns;
• removing weeds that compete with cucumbers for nutrients and shade them;
• liquid fertilizer - food for plants.

What mistakes should be avoided when growing cucumbers in a greenhouse?

There is always a lesson to be learned from mistakes in growing. What experienced gardeners advise you to pay attention to when growing cucumbers in a greenhouse:

1. Sloppy work. Additional shoots must be cut off carefully so as not to damage the leaves and flowers. It is necessary to use a sharp tool and not tear the shoots with your hands.
2. Untimely execution of stepsoning. You should not do this procedure until four true leaves appear. If the moment is missed and the lateral process has grown, then it is too late to carry out stepsoning.
3. Ignoring stepson patterns. All algorithms did not appear by chance, but were derived through many years of observation and experimentation. Not following the plan means depriving yourself of a good harvest.
4. Lack of watering after pinching. Although cucumbers tolerate this procedure well, it is nevertheless quite traumatic. Plants need to restore the balance of microelements, so watering with warm water is necessary.

A few important points when taking stepson

Removing stepsons with scissors

Is it a pity to injure the plant by removing shoots? Cucumbers tolerate the procedure quite painlessly and do not experience stress. But after pruning, it is worth fertilizing the plants and adding some fertilizer. Don’t forget about watering and ventilating the greenhouse.

Additionally, you can spray the lashes with a preparation containing copper, for example, Oxychom. It will protect the plant both internally and externally from many fungal diseases. If fungal spores get into the wound during pinching, then spraying will immediately help destroy them.

When should I stop planting cucumbers? Then, when the entire scheme is completed, the side shoots are removed according to the instructions. But many gardeners advise continuing to control the growth of cucumber vines.

What mistakes should be avoided when stepsoning?

You cannot remove many shoots at once; it will be very stressful for the plant. Do not use dirty tools: scissors or pruners. This can allow dirt and infection to get into fresh wounds. .

Is it worth cutting off the mustache of cucumbers when planting? Some people don’t waste time on such an activity. But some gardeners consider this necessary when growing cucumbers in a greenhouse. Intertwined with each other, the mustaches can make it difficult to process plants.

By accidentally twisting the leaves, they create a secret refuge for pests. You should not rely on the strength of the mustache that holds the plant on a support. The mustache only lasts a month, and after drying it can drop the whip. To prevent this from happening, along with pinching, it is advisable to tie the cucumbers to the support at each new stage.

Features of pinching cucumbers in open ground

When growing cucumbers without a greenhouse, it is important to carefully monitor the formation of stepsons and remove them in a timely manner.

There are two effective schemes, each of which gives good results.

1. If the area where cucumbers grow is small, then you can arrange vertical beds. The bush is fixed on a support and formed into one main shoot. All stepsons are removed from the sinuses. It is optimal if the beds are located from north to south. This device provides all plants with sunlight.
2. Not all stepchildren are deleted. There remain several small shoots containing no more than 6 nodes. After the central lash reaches 2.5 meters, it is pinched. This option is good for bee-pollinated or hybrid varieties. Female flowers are actively forming on the stepsons, so you shouldn’t cut them all off.

Another option for plant formation is an inverted pyramid. The stepsons are cut out from the first and second sinuses, and the shoots from the 3rd and 4th sinuses are pinched to 2-3 nodes. All the following stepsons can grow to a length of 40 cm. The result is a bush with one main lash and small lateral shoots.

How to pinch cucumbers in a greenhouse step by step guide

Pinching restricts plant growth. Pinching is carried out in the morning so that by evening the wound is overgrown. To do this, use a sharp knife or pruning shears.

Pinching is carried out in order to reduce the number of empty lashes on which the plant spends resources. Prevent the development of stepsons, whiskers that intertwine with each other and block sunlight for the plant.

Pinching begins when the plant has reached 40 cm in height. During this period, all shoots, flowers and ovaries are removed.

When the plant reaches the top of the greenhouse, it should be wrapped twice around the trellis and pinched.

The stepsons are pinched based on the chosen method of forming the cucumber lash.

Further care of the plant

After growing cucumbers in the greenhouse, you must:

• carry out regular weeding to prevent thickening;
• remove damaged and diseased leaves;
• pinch off barren flowers;
• regulate growth in width;
• provide regular feeding;
• quickly harvest the ripe crop;
• loosen and moisten the soil in a timely manner.

Important!

Watering cucumber bushes should be done only with warm water (it is heated for 24 hours in barrels, buckets, and other containers). If you use direct supply from the water supply, there is a risk of thermal shock, which can destroy even an adult plant.

Why is this done?

Before planting cucumbers in a polycarbonate greenhouse, you should decide why this is being done.
After all, there are people who doubt whether it is necessary to get rid of excess shoots on the plants they grow. Some vegetable growers argue that it is not necessary to remove stepchildren. However, it is better not to listen to them, since stepsoning has many advantages. Using this procedure, you can not only increase the amount of harvest, but also get it much earlier. If you get rid of excess shoots in a timely manner, then all the useful components will be spent only on fruits, and not on greens.

Everything will depend on the growing conditions and the variety of cucumbers. If you do not plant greenhouse cucumbers, their bushes will begin to develop quickly. Branches will begin to appear from the axils of the leaves, which in the future will grow and become additional stems. Over time, shoots will appear on them, which will consume a lot of nutrients. Because of this, the fruits will receive insufficient nutrients and they will develop too slowly.

What is stepsoning

During the growing season, any plant requires nutrition. They get it from the soil, evenly distributing it throughout all plant tissues. Side shoots are called side shoots that appear from the leaf axils on the plant stem (above the leaf). These shoots need nutrients in the same quantities as the main shoots. Moreover, as a rule, they grow faster than the main stem.

Pinching can be carried out according to different schemes: into one or several main stems.

By taking away useful substances from those shoots on which fruits are already forming, stepchildren disrupt their development. A crop that devotes all its energy to growing green mass has virtually no microelements left for growth and fruit formation. As a result, the crop's qualitative and quantitative characteristics deteriorate. In addition, the fruits simply may not have time to ripen. Therefore, it is recommended to promptly eliminate excess lashes.

Cucumbers are climbing plants. If they are neglected, they will become overly thickened, which leads to poor air circulation, insufficient sunlight and inhibition of development.

Varieties of cucumbers and hybrids that do not require removal of stepsons

Cucumbers can be grown indoors and outdoors. Breeders have developed varieties that do not require pinching.

The best varieties and hybrids for greenhouses that do not need stepson

It is imperative to form bushes in closed ground. However, when choosing varieties that are not characterized by strong lateral branching, pinching can be avoided or this operation can be performed only occasionally.

• April F1.

The hybrid is characterized by early ripening. The first fruits can be harvested within a month and a half after germination. Their length reaches 25 cm, and their weight is 0.25 kg. From one square meter of bed you can harvest about 20 kg of vegetables per season. The fruits are suitable for preparing salads and cooking. Plants bear fruit for a long time, withstand temperature changes and are immune to most diseases. Side shoots practically do not appear in April F1. Therefore, pinching is not necessary.

• Zozulya F1.

Cucumbers intended for indoor soil begin to bear fruit 40 days after germination. The hybrid is characterized by high productivity. From 1 square meter it is possible to collect up to 30 kg of cucumbers up to 20 cm long and weighing up to 300 g. The fruits are most often used for making salads. They are tasty, practically never bitter and have a long shelf life. The crop bears fruit for a long time. She is not afraid of the cold and rarely suffers from spotting or mosaic. Due to weak branching, the hybrid does not require pinching.

• Severin F1.

The self-pollinating hybrid can be cultivated in regions with different climatic conditions. It is not very picky about the weather and the length of daylight hours, bearing fruit well even in stressful situations. The bushes, consisting of a main central vine and fairly short lateral shoots, grow to medium size. Up to three cucumbers are tied in each bosom. The fruits are universal in use, they grow up to 13 cm and have excellent taste. The culture is resistant to major cucumber diseases.

Cucumbers for open ground that do not require removal of stepsons

Many gardeners do not grow crops grown outside. However, in this case, it is recommended to choose varieties whose bushes do not grow very wide.

• Emerald molasses F1.

The hybrid belongs to the parthenocarpic type, fruiting occurs 45...48 days after germination. The plant is most often planted in open ground, but can also be grown in greenhouses. Cucumbers have tall vines, a small number of lateral shoots, and mostly female inflorescences. Long fruits (up to 45 cm) are distinguished by their aroma and excellent taste characteristics. They are usually eaten fresh. The culture tolerates cold and lack of sunlight well. Its yield is 6...10 kg/1 sq.m. Cucumbers are practically not susceptible to powdery mildew.

• Grasshopper F1.

An early ripening crop that produces fruits already on the 38th...40th day, is distinguished by its tall growth, but limited branching. The ovaries are formed in bunches. As a rule, 4-5 cucumbers appear in each node. Small fruits (up to 11 cm long) are excellent for harvesting. From one square meter of bed it is possible to collect up to 15 kg. The hybrid is not afraid of powdery mildew, spotting, mosaic, and is resistant to downy mildew.

• Blizzard F1.

An ultra-early ripening hybrid (harvesting can begin as early as 37 days after germination) and does not require pollination by bees. The weaving of the bushes is moderate, the central stem is of medium height. Up to 5 fruits are formed in one node, which are distinguished by high commercial characteristics and a sweetish taste of juicy pulp. The size of cucumbers is 7...9 cm, their weight is up to 70 g. They are excellent for preservation.

Chapter 2. When to pick leaves

If the leaves begin to turn yellow, become covered with spots and become limp in appearance, hanging like whips, then these are symptoms of various diseases of cucumbers and such leaves must be quickly torn off, otherwise the entire plant may die, and you can completely forget about a good harvest. Such leaves should not be placed in a compost heap, but rather thrown away or removed from the garden

However, yellowing cucumber leaves can be not only a symptom of a fungal infection, but also a simple lack of watering, so pay attention to the plant’s signaling of its needs. If they are large, then they are only dry, but if they are small, then there is no need, if the plants are young, less than 1.5 meters, until the side shoots appear, this makes no sense, but in adult plants it is necessary to remove them for preventive purposes: gradually the lower leaves and especially large leaves to improve “ventilation”. In order not to ruin the cucumber vines, you need to properly trim the leaves.

Otherwise, you may be left without a harvest at all. Here are some recommendations on this issue: remove the side vines in a timely manner, pinching exactly the growth point, there is no need to touch the lashes themselves, work with sharp garden shears (or pruners) so as not to damage anything unnecessary, because wounds from broken leaves take a very long time to heal and affect fruit growth. If there are a lot of shoots on the bush, there is no need to prune. Pinch off the growing points and no longer feed the cucumbers with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. It is also advisable to stop watering - wait until the soil in the greenhouse becomes drier. This is necessary so that cucumbers grow, and not green tops. Once every two days, try to remove the yellowed leaves that are located below the fruit. Leave a couple of leaves until the ovary and the first cucumbers. When harvesting, do not touch the upper branches so that the location does not change. Otherwise, growth may slow down or stop, and the cucumbers will turn yellow.

In order not to ruin the cucumber vines, you need to properly trim the leaves. Otherwise, you may be left without a harvest at all. Here are some recommendations on this issue: remove the side vines in a timely manner, pinching exactly the growth point, there is no need to touch the lashes themselves, work with sharp garden shears (or pruners) so as not to damage anything unnecessary, because wounds from broken leaves take a very long time to heal and affect fruit growth. If there are a lot of shoots on the bush, there is no need to prune. Pinch off the growing points and no longer feed the cucumbers with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. It is also advisable to stop watering - wait until the soil in the greenhouse becomes drier. This is necessary so that cucumbers grow, and not green tops. Once every two days, try to remove the yellowed leaves that are located below the fruit. Leave a couple of leaves until the ovary and the first cucumbers. When harvesting, do not touch the upper branches so that the location does not change. Otherwise, growth may slow down or stop, and the cucumbers will turn yellow.

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Why do you need to stepplant plants?

Pinching comes down to removing unnecessary shoots from a plant. This allows the crop to help redistribute micronutrients and direct them to those shoots that have inflorescences and ovaries. Pruning is carried out on several types of vegetables: cucumbers, tomatoes, eggplants and some others.

In addition, removing stepchildren allows you to:

• Provide access to sunlight to all parts of the plant.

In overly dense plantings, the rays do not reach most of the foliage and fruits. Air exchange deteriorates. Crops with excess green mass are more likely to get sick.

• Increase productivity.
• Accelerate fruit ripening.
• Make it easier to harvest and care for compact plants.

Only those crops that are grown in nutrient-rich soils should be planted. If the plant grows on soil in which there is a deficiency of useful microelements, this procedure is fraught with weakening of the bush. Removing side shoots leads to a decrease in the number of ovaries, and, in the worst case, can cause the death of the cucumber.

Second phase

It is necessary to start forming seedlings into one stem immediately after planting them in greenhouses. To begin with, cut off all the extra buds and side shoots that are located near the fourth leaf. At the same time, all this must be done very carefully so as not to accidentally damage the plant.

Correct pinching of cucumbers should be done with sharp scissors or a sharpened knife so that everything goes painlessly for the plant. However, some gardeners prefer to remove everything themselves.

When all the extra shoots are removed, the bushes will need to be tied to a special net. To properly tie the cucumbers to the supports, you need to tie one edge of the rope to the main stem. The second edge is tied directly to the support. This procedure will further simplify the process of planting cucumbers in the greenhouse.

Well-known vegetable grower Oktyabrina Ganichkina recommends applying fertilizer to strengthen the plants before starting the second stage. To do this, it is recommended to use ready-made fertilizers from stores. For example, you can use Giant or Breadwinner fertilizers. After applying fertilizer, each bush should be watered with warm, settled water. It is recommended to spend at least 1 liter of water per plant.

Having finished with the preparatory work, you can begin to remove excess shoots. This pinning scheme is quite simple. It is necessary to begin removing stepsons when 5-8 leaves are fully formed on each bush. At the same time, we must not forget that at the second stage, at least one ovary should be left on the cucumbers.

During the procedure, it is necessary to pull back the leaf near which the stepson is located and carefully pinch it off. There is no need to rush so as not to accidentally hit the main stem or leaf. When all the work is completed, all the bushes are again tied to the supports.

When about 10 leaves have formed on one of the bushes, you can begin the next stage of removing shoots. During the third stage, two leaves and one young fruit are left on the bushes. In this case, all other stepsons of the cucumbers are removed.

Further care of cucumbers in the greenhouse is very simple, since after the formation of the eleventh leaf it will be possible to get rid of all unnecessary ovaries. It will be enough to leave 2-3 leaves and fruits on each side of the bush.

After removing the ovaries, the bush is tied to supports. However, at this stage this must be done very carefully, since the bushes are already too large. If during gartering you accidentally damage their crown, the plant will gradually dry out and die as a result.

At this point we can consider that the stepsoning is completely completed. However, many vegetable growers still recommend monitoring cucumber bushes during cultivation. Over time, extra ovaries will appear on them, which can slow down the development of the fruit. Therefore, it is necessary to regularly inspect the plants and remove excess shoots before harvesting.