Raspberry Phenomenon: description of the hybrid
The birthplace of the hybrid raspberry Phenomenon is Ukraine, specifically the Krasnokutsk Experimental Station. “Parents” are the Odarka and Stolichnaya varieties. Authorship belongs to N.K. Gonchar. It appeared relatively recently, in 1991, and quickly gained popularity among domestic gardeners and throughout the post-Soviet space.
Phenomena bushes are tall (more than 2.5 m), but not too spreading. They will definitely need a trellis or other support for the garter. A lot of root shoots and replacement shoots are formed, so they grow quickly. The spines are small and located relatively often.
Phenomenon raspberries have tall powerful bushes, the branching of which will have to be stimulated by pruning
The hybrid can be easily distinguished due to the characteristic color of the shoots. When young, the bark is light beige; by autumn it turns yellow. New growth may appear on the “stumps” remaining after pruning. Because of this, Phenomenon is often mistaken for a remontant variety, but it does not have the ability for long-term and almost continuous fruiting during the summer and autumn.
Medium ripening variety. Flowering occurs in May, the first fruits appear in the middle or at the end of the second ten days of July. Harvest within 20–25 days. Raspberries ripen en masse, do not fall off, and are not “baked” by the sun.
The average weight of a berry in the first “wave” of the harvest is 8–9 g, then 4–5 g. There are also “record holders” weighing 10–12 g. The skin is matte, almost bright scarlet in color. The drupes are large and not held together too tightly. The berries are juicy, tender, but at the same time dense and have good transportability. The shape is almost a regular cone. In the first year, raspberries are more rounded.
Raspberries Phenomenon are large juicy berries that spread an amazing aroma
Since there is more sugar in fruits than organic acids (6–7% versus 2%), the berries are sweet, but not cloying. The taste is dessert, with a pronounced characteristic aroma. You can remove 6–8 kg of fruit from one bush.
Video: what raspberry Phenomenon looks like
Description of the variety
The phenomenon can surprise many with its rich harvest of large berries with a dessert taste. This variety deserves to grow in every garden.
The raspberry bush is spreading and needs staking. The shoots are tall, can grow up to three meters, and are covered with thorns. The phenomenon produces shoots in sufficient quantity for rapid reproduction. Replacement shoots are also actively growing. The leaves of the plant are large, dark green, whitish and pubescent below.
The berries are bright red, large, elongated
The variety is classified as mid-season. Flowering begins in May, the first berries ripen in the second half of June, mass fruiting occurs in July. Phenomenon berries are elongated, cone-shaped, but in the first year after planting they can be round. The weight of the very first large fruits can reach 12 g, the average weight is 5–10 g.
The berries are dense but juicy, the seeds in the drupes can be felt. The taste is sweet with sourness, the aroma is pronounced raspberry.
Video: fruiting raspberries Phenomenon in the garden plot
Advantages and disadvantages of the variety - table
| Advantages | Flaws |
| Susceptible to attack by raspberry beetles, spider mites, and weevils. |
Advantages and disadvantages of the variety
The Phenomenon variety has many undoubted advantages:
- Cold resistance. Plants without additional protection overwinter in Ukraine, Belarus, and the Moscow region without much damage to themselves. Phenomenon is also successfully grown in the Urals and eastern Siberia. The bushes withstand winter thaws and recurrent spring frosts. The phenomenon consistently bears fruit in areas with continental and moderate continental climates.
- Drought resistance. It produces a harvest even in hot summers with irregular watering. If there is enough water, it bears fruit abundantly, regardless of the weather.
- Ability to adapt to a wide range of not always favorable climatic and weather conditions. With proper care, the Phenomenon bears fruit consistently, regardless of how the summer turns out: hot and dry or cold and rainy.
- A large percentage of established seedlings.
- Versatility. The fruits can be eaten fresh, canned for the winter, used as a filling for baked goods and for making other desserts.
- Presentable appearance, taste and transportability of berries. They make the variety attractive to those who grow berries for sale, including on an industrial scale. Raspberries ripen smoothly, ripe fruits do not dry out in the sun and do not fall off.
- High resistance to many common diseases caused by fungi and bacteria. Unfortunately, this does not apply to rot. The Phenomenon also avoids one of the most dangerous pests - the stem crimson gall midge.
- Consistently high yield. From an adult bush you can remove 6–8 kg of berries.
Raspberry berries of the Phenomenon variety are distinguished by their good taste and visual appeal, not least of which is due to the popularity of the hybrid
There are also some disadvantages:
- The taste of the berries greatly depends on the quality of the soil and the density of the plantings. The best fruits ripen where they have had enough sunlight, heat and water.
- Pronounced aroma. Some gardeners even complain about something chemical and artificial. But here everyone has their own opinion.
- Powerful long shoots. They must be tied to a trellis or some other support must be constructed. Otherwise, the tops will bend under the weight of the fruit, the raspberries will lie on the ground, and the bush will turn into something similar to a grapevine. It all depends on the gardener himself.
Landing procedure and preparation for it
The yield of raspberries depends on the quality of planting material, the correct choice of site for this crop and soil preparation.
Selection of seedlings
In order to be guaranteed to purchase the desired variety, planting material must be sought in special nurseries or from gardeners who are professionally involved in breeding crops. Fairs and other purchases from unknown parties are a big risk. It is advisable that the selected farm be located in the same climatic zone as your garden plot, or to the north. Such seedlings are already adapted to the vagaries of local weather.
It is imperative to inspect the roots and growth buds of the seedlings. The first ones should be flexible and well developed, more than 15 cm in length. The second ones are located at the very base in an amount of at least three pieces. The length does not really matter; after planting, the bush will still have to be trimmed. It is desirable to have 2-3 shoots about 1 cm thick. You should not rely on the “size matters” principle and choose the largest specimens with a large number of leaves. They take root worse.
Healthy raspberry seedlings have a developed fibrous root system
During transportation, the roots must be wrapped in a damp cloth or covered with straw. If planting is not planned right away, dig in the bushes. Leaving them in direct sunlight is harmful to the shoots.
Raspberry seedlings that you do not plan to plant immediately need to be buried
Selecting a location
Like any raspberry, Phenomenon grows best in fertile soils. Wetlands are absolutely not suitable for this drought-resistant variety. If groundwater is closer than one and a half meters from the surface, look for another place. Also, a bad choice would be a lowland where rainwater accumulates, and in the spring the snow does not melt for a long time. This provokes the development of root rot.
It is advisable that the raspberry planting be covered from the north by a natural or man-made barrier
Raspberries prefer fairly loose soil. Moisture in the soil should be retained, but not stagnate. A good choice is forest gray soil, light loam or sandy loam soil.
Lack of sun negatively affects the size and taste of the berries. Experienced gardeners recommend planting raspberries in one row so that from the north they are protected from the cold wind by a natural or artificial barrier - a fence, a house wall, and so on. It is advisable to separate the Phenomenon from other plantings - powerful, quickly spreading bushes will simply “strangle” them.
The most delicious raspberries ripen in the sun
Good neighbors for raspberries are fruit trees (apple trees, plums, pears), and their predecessors are other berry bushes (currants, gooseberries). You can also plant it in former vegetable beds, if any Solanaceae (tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants) did not grow there.
Preliminary preparation
The best time for planting raspberry seedlings in areas with a temperate climate is the last ten days of August or the beginning of autumn. The phenomenon takes root quickly and is frost-resistant. Where spring is short and summer weather quickly sets in, mid-April is suitable for the procedure.
About 15–20 days before this, you need to dig a hole or trench 35–40 cm deep. It is prepared for spring planting in the fall. The distance between the bushes is 50–70 cm. When laying several parallel trenches, 1–1.2 m are left between them. It is advisable to orient them from north to south or from northeast to southwest.
Planting pits for raspberries are prepared in advance
The top 15–20 cm of fertile soil is deposited separately. This substrate will need to be poured back, mixed with rotted manure or humus (3–5 kg per hole or 10 kg per linear meter of trench), superphosphate (30 g or 70–80 g, respectively) and potassium nitrate (20 g or 40–50 G). An alternative to mineral fertilizers is wood ash (a glass or a half-liter jar). You should not be overzealous with it - raspberries prefer neutral or slightly acidic soil.
Nitrogen-containing fertilizers are not applied during autumn planting. This will prevent the seedling from preparing for winter. The same applies to fresh manure, which can burn tender roots.
The finished pit must be covered with any waterproof material.
Planting raspberries in the ground
There is nothing complicated in the procedure itself. Even a novice gardener can handle it. The main thing is not to deepen the root collar. Such plants develop slowly and often suffer from rot.
- A day before planting, soak the roots in water warmed to room temperature with the addition of activated carbon or potassium permanganate (for disinfection) and any biostimulant (Epin, Kornevin, potassium humate).
- Dip the roots in a mixture of fresh manure and powdered clay. The correct consistency is similar to thick sour cream. Let it dry. This will take 2–3 hours.
- Place the seedling in the hole, straighten the roots so that they do not bend upward. Carefully cover with soil, lightly tamping it down from time to time.
- Tear off all the leaves and trim the seedling to a height of about 30 cm.
- Water the raspberries, using 2.5–3 liters of water for each bush. To prevent it from spreading, surround the plantings with a low side or ring grooves.
- When the moisture is absorbed, mulch the soil under the seedlings with peat chips, humus, sawdust, chopped straw, and freshly cut grass. Layer thickness - 5–6 cm.
Planting raspberries in the ground is a procedure that even a novice gardener can handle.
Be sure to provide space for a trellis. The Phenomenon's bushes are tall and will require staking. At intervals of 1.5–2 m, supports are driven in, onto which the wire is pulled in several rows. The bottom one is at a distance of 25–30 cm from the ground, the middle one is about 80 cm, the top one is 1.2–1.5 m. The shoots are tied to it at intervals of about 10 cm. The remaining branches are removed.
Phenomenon raspberries have tall, powerful bushes that will definitely need a trellis or other support
Video: how to plant raspberries correctly
Trimming and garter
Considering that the culture is quite high, gartering is mandatory. It is more convenient to do this when planting occurs in a trench type. To do this, just pull the fishing line and tie the raspberry bushes to it. However, when planting in holes, you need to use pegs. It is recommended to garter when the plant reaches a height of about 1.5 meters.
Pruning is done in the fall. It must be done using garden shears as follows:
- First, dry branches are cut off.
- Then the sick ones are removed. They can be found due to the presence of swellings and color changes.
- At the end, the skeletal branches are cut so that their height is no more than 1 meter.
Important! All cut shoots must be burned. Raspberry Phenomenon has good immunity, but not all crops can boast of it. Therefore, if you place branches in a hole to form humus, the fertilizer may become contaminated.
Nuances of plant care
Proper agricultural technology is the key to regular, abundant fruiting. There is nothing complicated in caring for Phenomenon raspberries, but you will have to pay a lot of attention to planting.
Watering
The phenomenon compares favorably with many other raspberry varieties in its drought resistance. For adult plants, three waterings per season are enough: at the end of April (when the buds gain color), when the fruit ovaries form and after the end of fruiting. The norm for one bush is 15–20 liters of water (or 30–40 l/m²). Starting in August, raspberries can make do with natural precipitation. But if the autumn is dry, it is advisable to carry out one or two moisture-charging waterings at the beginning and end of September (50–60 l/m²).
If technically possible, water the Phenomenon by irrigation or drip method. If there is none, pour water not directly under the bush, but into the annular grooves around them or into the furrows along the trenches.
Drip irrigation is very suitable for raspberries Phenomenon
The worst thing a gardener can do is water raspberries in small amounts every day. This procedure allows you to wet only the top layer of soil; the moisture simply does not reach the roots, located at a depth of 25–30 cm. It is also impossible to turn the bed into a swamp. The berries become watery, almost tasteless, and the roots rot.
About an hour after watering, you need to loosen the soil and mulch the soil. This will help retain moisture and significantly reduce the time spent on weeding.
Fertilizer application
Raspberry Phenomenon is very fond of nitrogen-containing fertilizers, both mineral and organic. But you can’t overdo it with them. The bush will begin to intensively grow green mass, and there will be no energy left for the formation of fruits. Avoid chlorine-containing drugs (for example, potassium chloride) so as not to provoke the development of chlorosis.
Raspberry Phenomenon responds equally well to feeding with both organic and mineral fertilizers
If everything was done correctly during planting, the available nutrients for the raspberry will last for the next two years. In the future, three feedings per season are sufficient.
When the ground thaws to a depth of 10–15 cm, water the bushes with a solution of ammonium nitrate, urea, ammonium sulfate (15–20 g per 10 liters of water). Once every 2–3 years, you can additionally distribute rotted manure or humus (10–15 kg/m²) under the bushes.
The flowering bushes are fed a second time. Use an infusion of fresh manure, bird droppings, nettle greens or dandelions. After the raw materials have stood in a container with water under a closed lid for 2-3 days, the finished mass is mixed and diluted again 1:15 (for litter) or 1:8 (for everything else). If complex fertilizers (Ideal, Kemira) are used, to enhance the effect, it is advisable to add 20–25 g of Nitrophoska or Diammofoska per 10 liters of water to the solution.
The last feeding is after the end of fruiting. 30 g of superphosphate and 15–20 g of potassium sulfate are diluted in 10 liters of water. You can use complex fertilizers (AVA, Autumn). If autumn is rainy, fertilizers are distributed under the bush in dry form. A natural alternative is wood ash (a glass per bush).
In autumn, you can fertilize raspberries with green manure (mustard greens, clover, vetch). The green mass is embedded in the soil so that it has time to rot over the winter.
Trimming
Phenomena's bushes are tall and quite powerful, so pruning is an absolutely necessary procedure. It is held twice a year. An adult raspberry bush should consist of 5–8 fruiting shoots.
The tool for pruning raspberries must be sharp and disinfected
In the spring, the plants are carefully inspected and all frozen, broken, and dried branches are removed. In the fall, all shoots affected by diseases and pests, as well as weak and poorly located ones, are removed. The branches are shortened to the first viable growth bud.
In addition to sanitary pruning, there is also formative pruning, which significantly increases productivity. After the end of fruiting, last year’s shoots need to be shortened to a height of 1.5–1.7 m, and the next season they should be cut back by another 10–15 cm, stimulating branching. This method of double pruning (according to Sobolev) is not without drawbacks, since it causes a strong thickening of the bush.
Pruning according to Sobolev is a popular way to form a raspberry bush, but the method is not without its drawbacks
Video: how to prune raspberries correctly
Preparing for winter
The Phenomenon variety is positioned by its creators as winter-hardy, and practicing gardeners confirm this. But it’s better to play it safe and protect your plantings than to look sadly at a frozen raspberry tree later.
The soil between the bushes must be cleared of weeds, fallen leaves, broken branches, and other plant debris. Then peat, humus, and rotted manure are added to the base of the shoots, forming a mound 15–20 cm high.
The branches need to be bent to the ground as low as possible, but so as not to break. First, the remaining leaves are torn off. The tops are fixed, for example, with wire “pins”. You can take several shoots and tie them together.
Raspberry bushes are carefully bent to the ground in autumn
The top of the raspberries is covered with any air-permeable material in several layers. As soon as enough snow falls, they throw it at the bushes, forming a snowdrift. In winter, it is periodically renewed and the hard crust is broken.
With the onset of warmth, remove the shelter, but do not rush to tie the shoots to the trellis. Wait until the leaves appear, then it will become clear which of them successfully survived the winter.
Video: caring for raspberry bushes
Common diseases and pests
Raspberry Phenomenon quite rarely suffers from fungal and bacterial diseases, with the exception of rot. One of the main pests of this crop, the stem crimson gall midge, does not attack it either. But the list of diseases and insects dangerous to crops is not limited to this.
There are simple preventive measures that will reduce the risk of infection to a minimum:
- purchasing high-quality planting material from trusted suppliers;
- planting bushes according to the scheme, without thickening;
- regular weeding and loosening of the soil under the bushes;
- inspection of plantings (at least once a week), immediate pruning of all shoots affected by diseases and pests and their destruction;
- cleaning the beds in the fall from plant debris and carrion, mulching the soil;
- proper care of plantings, especially with regard to watering and fertilizing;
- surrounding raspberries with beds of onions, garlic, aromatic herbs;
- When pruning, use only sharply sharpened and disinfected tools.
Table: diseases and pests affecting raspberries Phenomenon
| Disease or pest | Symptoms | Control measures |
| Gray rot | Leaves and fruits are covered with a gray “fluffy” coating with small black dots |
|
| Root rot (late blight) | The bases of the shoots turn brown, the tissues soften. Leaves turn yellow, then turn red and dry out | Raspberries can only be saved in the early stages of the disease. If most of the shoots are already affected by rot, they need to be dug up and burned as quickly as possible. The disinfection bed is watered with a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate and sprinkled with wood ash.
|
| Dwarfism (overgrowth, bushiness, “witch’s broom”) | Many thin short shoots 30–50 cm long. Their number can reach 200–250 pieces. Flowers are deformed - very large petals with no stamens and pistil | It is impossible to get rid of the virus using modern methods. The plant must be uprooted and destroyed as soon as possible. Particular attention should be paid to the fight against insect carriers of the disease - aphids, cicadas, nematodes |
| Raspberry beetle | Adults feed on leaves; females lay eggs in buds or young ovaries. The larvae feed on the pulp of the fruit and destroy the receptacle. Unripe and deformed berries fall off long before ripening |
|
| Raspberry shoot aphid | Black-brown or yellow-green insects in whole colonies stick to the underside of young leaves, tops of shoots, buds, sucking the juice from them |
|
| Spider mite | A thin cobweb entwines the petioles of the leaves; small beige dots and vague light spots are visible on the underside |
|
| Raspberry-strawberry weevil | Female beetles lay eggs in flower buds, damaging the peduncle in the process. They dry up and fall off |
|
| Raspberry glass | The butterfly larvae gnaw out the shoots from the inside. The core dries out and turns brown |
|
| Raspberry stem fly | Females lay eggs in the axils of leaves. The larvae feed on their tissues, then penetrate into the stems |
|
What can cause a plant to get sick: the reasons in the photo
Gray rot spreads quickly through touching berries
Root rot can only be treated in the early stages of the disease.
Raspberry dwarfism is a dangerous virus; there is no cure for this disease yet
Everyone has undoubtedly seen raspberry beetle larvae.
Aphids are one of the most “omnivorous” garden pests; they also do not bypass raspberries.
Spider mites are not insects, so special preparations are used to combat them - acaricides
The raspberry-strawberry weevil is a cute-looking bug that can deprive you of your harvest already at the bud formation stage
The main damage to raspberry bushes is caused by raspberry glass larvae
When a raspberry stem fly appears, you need to fight both adults and larvae
Fertilizer
Fertilizing raspberries Phenomenon is an important stage in growing a crop. The fact is that if there is a lack of nutrients in the soil, the berries become small and their acidity increases. Therefore, in order to always get a good harvest that will be distinguished by high taste, it is necessary to feed raspberries correctly.
How to apply fertilizers correctly:
- Organic fertilizers are added in spring. It is best to apply them in liquid form so that the root system can better absorb nutrients.
- During active growth, mineral fertilizers are added.
- During flowering, minerals are needed again.
- The last time during the season, mineral fertilizers are added during the period of berry formation.
- Before wintering, add organic fertilizers again 3 weeks before wintering. It is better to apply them in solid form at a short distance from the bushes, so that the released ammonia warms the root system, but does not burn it.
Mineral fertilizers can be bought in specialized stores. They must be added according to the instructions. It is recommended to do this on cloudy days or in the evening. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the fertilizer is based on potassium, phosphorus and superphosphate. These elements are very necessary for the crop to produce good yields.
When to collect and how to use the crop
The yield of the Phenomenon variety is quite high, 6–8 kg per bush. The berries ripen quickly and can be picked in 5–6 times. Ripe raspberries are easily separated from the fruit bed. At the same time, it does not fall off the bush.
The Phenomenon raspberry variety has good yield
A dry day is chosen for harvesting. This should not be done in the morning - wait for the dew to dry. Raspberries are removed only by hand and placed in shallow containers lined with soft cloth or parchment paper. Each berry is carefully taken with three fingers and slightly turned, separating it from the branch. Damaged, overripe fruits are immediately separated from healthy ones.
When fresh, at a temperature of 1–3ºС and an air humidity of 90–95%, Phenomenon raspberries can be preserved for a period of 4–5 days. Those who want to preserve the fruits until winter will have to dry them, freeze them, puree them with added sugar, or prepare compotes, jams, jellies, and other homemade preserves. The variety is absolutely universal and is suitable not only for fresh consumption. The taste of the fruit and a significant part of the vitamins are preserved even after heat treatment; the berries do not become overcooked and do not lose color.
Preparing for the winter is one of several ways to preserve the taste of summer for a long time
Video: raspberry fruiting Phenomenon
Reviews
Renat M: As an experienced gardener, I will say that the variety is decent: good yield, resistance to pests and diseases. The main thing is to feed regularly (raspberries love fertilizing with nitrogen) and prune in a timely manner.
Ksenia K: I’m glad I chose this variety! Children and grandchildren are delighted: the berries are sweet and large. The harvest from the bush is generous: we eat our fill, make jam, grind it, and freeze it. Good in any form!
Dmitry M: Overall not bad. I’ve been growing it for about 5 years now. It doesn’t require any special care, it overwinters well, the taste is pleasant.
