Little Stout F1 will appeal to lovers of gherkins, which can be prepared for the winter and eaten fresh. It has a wonderful taste, and the aromatic juicy fruits will decorate any salad and look great when salted.
Landing location | Ripening time | Mode of application | Fruit length | Group | Fruit smoothness | Pollination method |
Universal | Mid-early (46-55 days) | Universal | Short (gherkins) - less than 10 cm | Hybrid | Highly lumpy | Parthenocarpic |
Description and characteristics of the variety
Malyshok-Krepyshok F1 is a new hybrid variety. It is parthenocarpic and the flowers do not require pollination by bees. Thanks to this, it can be planted in greenhouses and in open ground. Outdoors, the cucumber exhibits high resistance to cold. The first fruits ripen on the 53rd day after germination, less often - after 59 days.
The fruits of the hybrid are short, 7-8 cm, weighing about 75-85 g. The skin is covered with noticeable tubercles and has light stripes. The pulp is crispy, tasty and juicy. The fruits are suitable for all culinary purposes and fresh consumption.
Description of the cucumber variety Malyshok
“Malyshok” cucumbers are a hybrid bee-pollinated variety.
The bushes are compact, not exceeding 50 cm. The ripening time for greens is 40 days after germination. Designed for open ground as it is pollinated by bees. The weight of the fruit usually does not exceed 90 g. The color is dark green, with light tubercles. The taste is high, the flesh is juicy, with a characteristic crunch and aroma.
Productivity is considered average. From 1 sq. m. you can get 12-12.5 kg. fruits
Hybrid characteristics
The baby is an agro-varietal cucumber, the bushes of which are compact and do not exceed 50 cm in length. Flowers are pollinated by bees, so it is preferable to grow the variety in open ground, removable film shelters or in greenhouses with a folding roof. The fruits ripen 40 days after emergence.
The length of the greens is no more than 10 cm, weight - about 90 g. The dark green skin has an average number of strongly pronounced tubercles, the thorns are light in color. The taste is very pleasant, the flesh is crispy, juicy, with a pleasant cucumber aroma. The fruits can be used for pickling, preservation and fresh consumption.
Productivity
From 1 sq. m get 11.9-12.5 kg of fruit.
Pros and cons of the variety
Advantages:
- Versatile use; cucumbers are suitable for pickling and fresh consumption.
- The compactness of greens makes it convenient for canning in small jars.
- Pickles quickly.
- Not susceptible to bitterness at the genetic level.
- Has early maturation.
- Resistant to outdoor weather conditions.
- Recommended for cultivation in most regions of Russia.
Flaws:
- The difficulty of growing in greenhouses and greenhouses.
- It is susceptible to sudden drops in temperature, although it tolerates short periods of cold well.
Landing
From April you can sow seeds for seedlings, and in May-June - directly into the ground. Reviews from gardeners say that the best seeds are Gavrish pickles.
Seedlings are planted in small containers, preferably peat, with a diameter of 10-12 cm. The soil mixture is purchased in the store or prepared from:
- 2 parts humus;
- 2 parts peat;
- 1 part sawdust.
For every 10 liters of substrate add 2 tbsp. wood ash and one and a half tablespoons of nitrophoska. Seeds are sown to a depth of 1.5-2 cm, moistened the soil, and germinated in a warm place under a film. Then the sprouts are provided with sunlight and a temperature of about +18-20 degrees. Feed once with nitrophoska or nitroammophoska. At the age of 20-25 days they are transplanted to a permanent place.
To plant in open ground, it is dug up in the fall and fertilizers are applied for the winter - humus or compost.
Planting cucumbers Malyshok
Seeds can be sown for seedlings at the end of April or directly into the ground in the south and middle zone in May-June. Before planting, they need to be processed, especially if they were obtained from your own garden. The seed material is placed in a solution of potassium permanganate no stronger than 1% for 1-2 hours, then rinsed and treated with a solution of a growth stimulator. You can germinate the seeds by wrapping them in a damp cloth and placing them in a warm place for 1-2 days.
For seedlings you will need small cups made of plastic or peat, as well as a nutrient substrate. It is prepared from garden soil, peat, humus and sand, then poured with boiling water. Sow 1-2 seeds in each container, moisten and place in a warm place at a temperature of +25-27 degrees. When sprouts appear, the seedlings are moved to a brightly lit place and the temperature is reduced.
The optimal temperature for sprouts is +18-20 degrees. If the apartment is warmer than +23, the seedlings will stretch out and become weak, and will not take root well in open ground.
Seeds are sown immediately in the beds when the temperature is +15. For 1 sq.m. 3-5 plants are placed, the soil is covered with film until germination.
Conditions
One of the main conditions for planting cucumbers in open ground is high-quality preparation of the soil and seeds. The area for growing this variety must have the following characteristics:
- the soil in the garden bed should be loose and light, well fluffy. The ideal soil for the crop is sandy loam or loamy;
- the place should be well lit. Tall plants or any structures near cucumbers will interfere with the formation of ovaries;
- Particular attention must be paid to crop rotation. It is recommended to plant the crop after potatoes, corn, legumes or tomatoes. Zucchini, pumpkin, mahogany, and garlic devastate and impoverish the soil, drawing out most of the beneficial substances from it. Therefore, it is not advisable to sow cucumbers after them;
- in the fall, the bed must be dug up and substances such as manure (bucket), potassium salt (20 g) and superphosphate (40 g) added to the soil. Spring work consists of loosening the soil and adding ammonium nitrate (15 g) to it.
Growing and care
Water the garden abundantly, but not excessively. 2-3 times a week is best. Use warm water, watering in the evening or in the morning.
Feed 2-3 times during growth, the first feeding is 10-14 days after planting the seedlings. A solution of cow manure or chicken droppings, as well as mineral fertilizers, are added one by one. Fertilizing with urea gives a good effect.
The soil is carefully loosened, long lashes are tied up.
Cucumbers are one of the most popular crops among gardeners in our country. Already in the second half of spring, you can try fresh fruits grown on your own, and the winter menu is not complete without pickled vegetables, so summer residents try to grow them in large quantities.
Not only owners of large plots can please themselves with a rich cucumber harvest. Using bush varieties, fruits can be collected even in small beds. What are the advantages of bush cucumbers and what are the nuances of caring for them, we will tell you further.
General description of bush cucumbers
Bush cucumbers are distinguished by their low growth of the main stem - 50 cm, while in classic varieties the main loops reach 3 m . Moreover, they have a minimum number of side branches. Thanks to this, these varieties are compact bushes.
Bush cucumbers have short internodes . Because of this, the plants appear heavily leafy. They produce a large number of fruits, the size of which reaches 10 cm, but they are usually removed from the bush when they reach 5 cm. They are convenient to preserve and look beautiful on the table.
All bush cucumbers are characterized by rapid and rapid ripening . Already 3 weeks after the appearance of the first shoots, the harvest is harvested. The growing season of bush cucumbers is also short. Already a month after the formation of the first fruits, the bushes are dug up and new plants are planted in their place.
The taste of cucumbers is rich and sweet . They are crispy, have a tender skin and lots of bumps.
All bush varieties are resistant to most viral and fungal diseases . Thanks to the rapid setting of fruits, gardeners have time to harvest before the outbreak of the most common diseases.
This is interesting. Bush cucumbers are decorative and look interesting even in outdoor flowerpots.
Features of growing bush cucumbers
Bush cucumbers are distinguished by their early ripening: you will harvest the crop before diseases characteristic of the pumpkin family begin to appear in the gardens. Due to its modest dimensions, there is no need to expect a large harvest, but the fruit yield will be friendly: once collected, pickled and forgotten.
Carefully look at the manufacturer’s description: some varieties and hybrids are pollinated by bees and are intended for open ground; there are parthenocarpic varieties for growing in greenhouses and on balconies.
The recommended planting density for bush cucumbers is 70 x 30 cm. They are heat- and moisture-loving, preferring lighted places protected from cold winds. Placed on fertile, light, humus-rich soils.
When growing, it is enough to adhere to standard agrotechnical requirements: water regularly, without flooding, give two feedings per season, mulch the soil or weed.
Watering bush cucumbers should be more frequent than growing climbing varieties, up to twice a day during drought.
Bush cucumbers do not need additional support.
Bush varieties intensively consume basic nutrients. As for fertilizers, once every two weeks, according to the manufacturer’s instructions, it is best to use ready-made chlorine-free complexes, and also give a solution of mullein in one feeding.
It is better to buy bush cucumber seeds early, they scatter very quickly
Varieties of bush cucumbers
We present the most popular varieties of bush cucumbers :
- Mikrosha . Variety for open ground. The height of the bush reaches 40 cm. The fruits are egg-shaped and reach a length of 5 cm. The peel is dark green and dense. The seeds are small. The taste is sweetish. Has high immunity to viral and fungal diseases.
- Gift . Recommended for open ground. The bush reaches a height of 50 cm. It is resistant to viral and fungal diseases. Dark green fruits with thin skin grow up to 10 cm in length.
- Shorty . A bee-pollinated variety that is suitable for growing in open ground. The bush is medium spreading. The maximum height of the main stem reaches 45 cm. Zelentsy are light green, with white stripes and delicate, thin skin. The length of the fruit does not exceed 9 cm. It has high immunity to olive spot and powdery mildew.
- Bush . The height of the bush does not exceed 50 cm. The fruits are cylindrical, up to 8 cm long, green in color, with thin skin. They are distinguished by their ease.
The advantage of bush cucumber varieties is that collected seeds from independently grown fruits are suitable for planting . Planting material is collected from large, yellowed fruits on the bush.
Characteristics of bush cucumbers
Cucumbers can be divided into 2 large groups, those that:
- They weave like vines.
- They grow compactly, producing several small-sized bush vines.
The main advantage of bush cucumbers is that they take up little space - from 0.6 to 0.9 m² per plant. Otherwise, they have the same cultural requirements as ordinary ones. The ripening dates are also the same.
Did you know? Cucumber is a popular cultivated plant of the pumpkin family. It began to be cultivated in Ancient India 4000 years ago.
General characteristics of bush varieties:
- compactness;
- weak branching;
- instant appearance of ovaries and harvest;
- abundant formation of ovaries;
- precocity.
More often, such varieties are recommended for planting in open ground. Planting in greenhouses is impractical due to poor use of free space. The ripening period for most of them is 40–50 days. An added benefit is that the ease of tillage around the plants reduces the risk of disease.
Hybrids of bush cucumbers
Hybrids of bush cucumbers are often more resistant to diseases than varieties . Therefore, many gardeners prefer them:
- Sturdy baby F1 . The height of the bush varies between 30-40 cm. The fruits are egg-shaped, weighing 60-80 g. Resistant to viral and fungal diseases.
- Baby F1 . The height of the central stem reaches 30 cm. The fruits are elongated, dark green, with large tubercles. They reach a length of 9 cm. The hybrid is resistant to viruses and powdery mildew.
- Hector F1. The height of the bush reaches 40 cm. The light green fruits grow up to 8 cm in length, have a thin peel and light pubescence. The hybrid is resistant to cold weather.
- Aladdin F1 . The maximum height of the bush is 70 cm. The cucumbers are elongated, dark green in color, with sparse tubercles. Each fruit reaches 10 cm in length. The hybrid is demanding on soil composition and watering. Is immune to downy mildew.
- Boy with thumb F1. The height of the bush varies between 30-40 cm. The length of the dark green prickly fruits does not exceed 8 cm. It is immune to viral and fungal diseases.
Seeds from hybrid fruits are not used for planting . Often, they grow into plants that have parental rather than hybrid characteristics.
Characteristics of Krepysh cucumbers
The cucumber variety Krepysh f1 is included in the State Register of the Russian Federation and is intended for cultivation in the Central Black Earth and Central regions in open ground.
The fruit ripening period is mid-season. From emergence to harvest, 40-45 days pass. The productivity of the variety is remarkable. From 1 sq. per meter, an average of 4-5 kg of cucumbers are harvested.
The hybrid species Krepysh is very popular among businessmen involved in the sale of vegetable products. Its yield is 85-95 c/ha higher than that of the Serpentine or Graceful types. In addition, the fruits tolerate transportation well and can be stored for a long time.
Bushes
The Krepysh cucumber variety forms curly, powerful bushes of medium length. The leaves are small, five-lobed, dark green. The plant blooms mainly with female flowers.
Fruit
The fruits of the Krepysh variety have the shape of an elongated ellipse. Their length is 9-12 cm, average weight is 70-80 g. The surface of cucumbers is covered with large tubercles, many white spines, and painted dark green with small light grooves. The fruit pulp is juicy, crispy, and lacks bitterness. Krepysh cucumbers are consumed fresh in salads and other vegetable dishes. They are also quite suitable for pickling and pickling for the winter.
Planting cucumbers
Planting bush self-pollinating varieties of cucumbers for open ground is not much different from planting ordinary ones. Due to the compact size of the plants, they are planted close to each other .
Cucumbers are demanding on the composition of the soil. They begin preparing the beds for planting cucumbers in the fall. To do this, the soil is dug up and cleared of plant debris. For every 1 m², add 15 g of urea, 30 g of superphosphate and 6 kg of humus. The ingredients are mixed with soil.
In the spring the soil is dug up. For every 1 m², add a glass of ash to reduce acidity and saturate the soil with useful microelements. 2 days before planting cucumbers, water the soil with a hot solution of copper sulfate (1 tbsp. L of copper sulfate per bucket of water).
The choice of place for planting cucumbers also matters . Semi-shaded areas where groundwater is not too close to the surface are suitable for this crop.
It is important to observe crop rotation . No other melon crops should grow in the selected area during the previous two years.
Bush cucumbers are grown by seedlings and without seedlings . In both cases, before using the planting material, it is prepared:
- Warming up . A month before planting, the package with seeds is placed near the battery.
- Calibration _ The seeds are sorted, leaving dense large specimens without damage, dark spots, or voids.
- Disinfection . The seeds are soaked for half an hour in a light pink solution of potassium permanganate or for 6 hours in a solution of Fitosporin.
- Growth stimulation . Seeds are soaked for 6-12 hours in a growth stimulator. The products “Epin” and “Solution” are often used.
- Hardening . The seeds are placed in the refrigerator for a day.
After processing, the planting material is ready for planting.
Note! Often purchased planting material is processed in the factory. Information about this is indicated on the packaging.
Seedless method
Cucumbers are grown without seedlings in the southern regions . They are sown in the ground when the soil at a depth of 15 cm warms up to +12°C. This usually happens in early May.
Seeds are sown in rows to a depth of 4 cm . The distance between plants should be 20-25 cm, between rows - 40 cm. Some gardeners sow two seeds in one hole, and if both germinate, then pinch out the weaker plant.
After sowing the seeds, the beds are watered with warm water . Next, the soil is moistened as it dries. The crops are covered with a film, which is opened slightly during the hottest part of the day and ventilated for two hours. After the first shoots appear, the beds are covered with film only at night. When the threat of night frosts has passed, it is completely removed.
For greenhouses, the principle of sowing seeds is the same . In this case, the cultivation of cucumbers begins in the second half of April. The crops are not covered with film.
Seedling method
The seedling method is considered the most reliable . It is suitable for growing cucumbers in all regions and allows you to get a harvest much earlier.
The timing of sowing seeds for seedlings depends on the region:
- southern - early April;
- central – second half of April;
- northern - early May.
Cucumbers do not tolerate picking well, so the seeds are sown immediately in separate containers - plastic and peat cups are suitable. Before use, they are disinfected with a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate.
For cucumber seedlings, buy a universal soil mixture or prepare the soil yourself. To do this, mix two parts of garden soil and humus with one part of sawdust or sand. The earth is disinfected with a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate or calcined in the oven.
One seed is sown in each container, buried 2 cm. The crops are watered with warm water, covered with film and put in a place with a temperature of +24...+26°C.
When the seeds germinate, the film is removed. Plants are grown at room temperature . If there is not enough natural light, then use phytolamps.
How to care for seedlings:
- The seedlings are watered 2 times a week with water at room temperature. For watering use a spray bottle.
- After the appearance of two true leaves, fertilizing is applied . It is prepared from 1 liter of water and 1 teaspoon of “Nitrophoska”.
- Two weeks after sowing the seeds, the seedlings are taken outside . Hardening begins at one hour, gradually increasing the time to 12 hours.
Seedlings are planted 3 weeks after sowing the seeds . By this time, the soil temperature at a depth of 15 cm should reach +12°C.
Holes are dug in the ground using a 25x40 pattern. Seedlings are placed in them along with a lump of earth, without deepening the root collar.
After planting, the plants are watered. The next watering is possible no earlier than in a week.
For the first two weeks, cucumbers are covered with film at night . This reduces the threat of plant death due to night frosts.
Growing and caring for bush cucumber seedlings
To grow seedlings you will need to prepare:
- containers;
- seeds;
- soil for planting.
The optimal indoor air temperature should be +18…+20°C, humidity 60–70%. Remember that you can collect seeds for seedlings only from varieties. Hybrids must be purchased every year from the manufacturer. In this case, you will receive cucumbers with the declared commercial properties and yield.
Seeds of Dutch varieties are supplied in processed form. But if there is no confidence in the quality of the planting material, it is first disinfected and treated with a growth stimulator. Disinfection prevents damage from rot, late blight and other fungal diseases.
Just a few years ago, soil preparation consisted of disinfecting it from fungal spores, making it loose with sand or peat and ensuring fertility. Now you can use peat tablets.
They are compressed peat, which, when exposed to moisture, swells and takes the shape of a cylinder in a mesh material. The tablet provides the seedling with space to grow and nutrition. Its main advantage is that the cucumber root system is not damaged during transplantation. This is important, since cucumbers do not tolerate it well.
Did you know? A sign of strong soil acidity is excellent weed growth. At the same time, creeping wheatgrass prefers slightly acidic soil, and woodlice prefers acidic soil.
Soil and seed preparation
The easiest and cheapest way to prepare the soil is to take soil from the garden. Most often it is acidified, and cucumbers need slightly alkaline soil. To deoxidize the soil, it is mixed with dolomite flour or lime at least 2-3 weeks before planting the seeds.
Also, garden soil is poor in nutrients, so sand is added to the soil to fluff and make it loose, as well as peat or compost for fertilizer. Before planting, the soil is treated with high temperature. Even if you buy a mixture for cucumbers in a store, it must be treated with a 3% solution of potassium permanganate.
Spores of pathogenic fungi are not visible to the naked eye. Therefore, all seeds are treated in warm water (+ 50°C) for 20 minutes. High temperatures are detrimental to soil microorganisms. The same effect is achieved if the seeds are heated with a table lamp.
The modern method of seed treatment is with fungicides. For example, the drug "Fitosporin M". The soil bacterium Bacillus subtilis contained in it suppresses the development of pathogenic microflora, thereby healing the soil and promoting the development of beneficial microorganisms.
The seeds are also treated with a growth stimulant, for example, Zircon. Such seeds are more resistant to diseases, hatch faster, and bear fruit more actively. Stimulants are used in strict accordance with the instructions for the drugs.
Important! Store seeds indoors at room temperature. Storage at low temperatures reduces the germination rate.
Seed sowing technology
Technology for sowing seeds for seedlings:
- First, seedling containers are treated with disinfectants. If the container is new, just wash it with soap. Containers from the previous season are treated with an antibacterial agent.
- Prepare soil, peat cups or peat tablets.
- Fill the containers 2/3 with soil and moisten. Peat tablets are moistened and placed in a plastic container.
- Seeds in the soil are placed in rows with a distance between them of 2–3 cm and covered with a layer of soil of 1 cm. If tablets are used, then 2 seeds are placed in one tablet.
- Cover the container or containers with seedlings with plastic film. This will raise the temperature inside and speed up seed germination.
- When shoots appear, the film is removed so that the seedlings do not stretch. It is recommended to reduce the air temperature gradually.
Seedling care
Seedling care consists of:
- regular watering;
- periodic feedings.
Cucumbers are 90% water, so they need watering. It is worth watering the seedlings as the soil dries out, avoiding waterlogging. A spray bottle is used for this purpose. Make sure that water does not get on the leaves.
There is no need to feed seedlings in peat tablets. The one that grows in ordinary containers with soil is fed with a balanced fertilizer that contains nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus in equal parts. Fertilizing is carried out in the phase of 2–3 true leaves. Then it can be repeated after 2 weeks.
Important! 1.5 hours before transplanting, water the seedlings generously. It is important not to damage the roots when planting cucumbers in the ground.
To prevent seedlings from stretching, the temperature should not exceed +16°C. If the only light comes from a window, the plants will gravitate towards the light. To avoid deformation, illuminate the plants with fluorescent lamps.
Transplanting seedlings into the ground
Seedlings are planted in open ground after 3–4 weeks of growth in rows or using mound planting. The first makes it easier to care for plants, but the planting method itself does not affect the yield.
Planting technology:
- The soil in the planting bed is deoxidized with lime or dolomite flour in the fall or 3 weeks before planting.
- The area is being dug up.
- Disinfection from wintering pests is carried out using boiling water or treatment with fungicides.
- If the soil is clayey and dense, add sand or other bulk material to make it softer and more airy.
- Grooves or holes are prepared for planting. They should be larger than the diameter of the glass with seedlings to promote better root growth.
- Manure or compost is added to the planting site at the rate of 8–10 kg per 1 m². You can add 80 g of superphosphate per 1 m².
- Before planting seedlings, they are watered.
- Seedlings are planted with a distance of 70x12 cm between rows and individual plants. Planting is carried out at the same depth as in the cup.
- The plants are watered after planting, and the soil around the trunk is compacted.
- 2-3 weeks after planting, fertilize with the same fertilizer that was used to fertilize the seedlings.
- The root zone around the plant can be covered with mulch. This helps retain moisture and prevents compaction of the soil.
In open ground
Cucumber seedlings are planted in open ground if the air temperature has reached +21°C. The seedlings should be about 30 days old by this time. Planting is carried out in the morning, when it is not hot, so that the plant can better acclimatize.
Important! Any soil contains 45% minerals that are poorly absorbed by plants, 25% water and air, and 5% organic matter, so it is important to add organic fertilizers to the soil to improve fertility.
Cucumbers are not demanding of light, so the area can be either sunny or have variable lighting. If the site has dense soil, choose a sloped area to allow excess water to drain naturally in the event of rain.
To the greenhouse
Growing cucumbers in a greenhouse is simple; you only need frequent watering, supports for growth and fertilizer. Greenhouse plants develop faster and produce greater yields. Before planting seedlings, the greenhouse is prepared for the new season. Remains of organic matter (tops and leaves) have been removed since the fall. The greenhouse is washed and disinfected.
The soil is dug up and disinfected with a solution of copper sulfate 7%. Then they are fertilized by applying organic or chemical fertilizers. Rotted manure is often used. This is explained by the fact that its components create an additional source of heat for the seeds.
Nutrients from organic matter are released gradually and are absorbed by the plant as it grows, which is also a positive factor. The rate of manure application is 8–10 kg per 1 m². The trenches are made 30 cm deep and filled halfway with manure, and covered with soil on top. Then the seedlings are planted in prepared trenches.
Rules for caring for bush cucumbers
It is believed that bush cucumbers are easier to grow than climbing cucumbers . Caring for this type of culture has its own nuances.
Caring for bush cucumbers:
- Watering. Bush cucumbers will have to be watered more often than climbing ones. In hot and dry summers - up to twice a day. The soil is moistened in the morning and in the evening (when the sun is inactive) with water at room temperature.
- Garter. Bush cucumbers do not need additional support. Some gardeners, when a large number of fruits form, attach the central stem to a wooden peg.
- Loosening . After each watering, the soil is loosened to restore air exchange. You cannot loosen the beds too deeply. This is due to the fact that the root system of cucumbers is located close to the surface.
- Mulching . It is recommended to cover the beds with a layer of straw, hay or sawdust. This will slow down the growth of weeds, reduce the likelihood of plant infection, protect the plantings from insects, and slow down the process of moisture evaporation.
- Weeding . Be sure to ensure that many weeds do not appear in the cucumber beds. They slow down the growth of cultivated plants and increase the likelihood of their infection.
- Feeding. Bush cucumbers are especially demanding when it comes to feeding. They are added every two weeks. Alternate mineral and organic compositions.
Many gardeners wonder whether and how to grow cucumbers in open ground. Such varieties are determinant, so there is no need to limit their growth point . They do not form lashes and branch weakly. There is no need to pick and shape the bush.
Experienced gardeners recommend pinching a few lower leaves to improve air exchange . This procedure is optional.
Diseases and pests
Most bush cucumbers are immune to fungal and viral diseases. Some varieties can still be infected.
The most common diseases of cucumbers include:
- powdery mildew - a white or reddish coating appears on the leaves, which leads to withering of the plants;
- downy mildew - dry yellow spots appear on the leaves. The ground part of the bush withers, ovaries do not form;
- olive spot - characterized by olive or brown spots on the ground part of the bush;
- verdigris - brown (not dry) spots appear on the greenery of the plant. Weeping areas form on the fruits;
- white rot - the entire plant, along with the fruits, becomes covered with a white, damp coating, which leads to rotting of the bush;
- gray rot - the ground part of the bush becomes covered with weeping brown spots, on which a gray coating forms;
- root rot - manifests itself in the form of destruction of roots and wilting of plants.
The diseases described are caused by fungi and bacteria . To prevent their development, plantings are sprayed with “Fitosporin” or copper sulfate every two weeks. If the disease has already affected the plants, then use special means - for example, “Fitosporin” (once every 2 days) or “Previkur” (once every 14 days). In this case, the affected leaves are removed.
Viral diseases have no cure and are difficult to prevent . Most bush varieties are immune to them.
To protect against aphids and spider mites, cucumber bushes are sprayed with a soap solution (1 piece of soap per 10 liters of water) or a decoction of bitter herbs. If folk remedies do not help, then use the drug “Barrier”.
Features of care
Seedling care includes:
- loosening the soil;
- weed removal;
- watering;
- tying and shaping the bush;
- application of fertilizers.
Did you know? The longest cucumber was presented in 2011 at an exhibition in Shelton Male (UK). Its length was 107 cm.
Prevention of diseases and timely destruction of pests, as well as the correct microclimate will help create conditions conducive to a good harvest.
Watering and fertilizing
Cucumbers grow well in light, loose soil. Maintaining the correct distances when planting is also necessary, since plants can develop poorly due to dense plantings. Cucumbers consume a lot of nutrients. Applying manure or compost when planting seedlings helps achieve this goal. In this regard, organic matter is the best choice for starting soil fertility.
After the first flowers appear on the vines, feed them with the next portion of organic matter. Cucumbers take well to feeding from bird droppings or mullein, diluted with water in a ratio of 1:8 and 1:10. If plants develop poorly and leaves turn yellow, fertilizing with nitrogen is necessary.
If you prefer inorganic fertilizers, then a typical set of fertilizers for feeding could be like this:
- potassium - 30 g;
- superphosphate - 50 g;
- ammonium nitrate - 15 g.
All components are dissolved in water (10 l) and applied to the root zone. Repeat feeding every 2 weeks. Water the cucumbers as the soil dries, 2–4 times a week, depending on weather conditions.
Important! If watered irregularly, cucumbers will become bitter.
Rules for watering cucumbers:
- always only slow water pressure;
- never spray water on the leaves - this can cause the plants to get sick;
- water only in the morning, so as not to create a favorable humid environment for the development of bacteria and fungi;
- water regularly.
Garter and bush formation
Bush cucumbers form small vines, up to 0.5–0.8 m long. Therefore, they do not need staking and pinching of side shoots, and you do not need to think about how to properly form the bush to obtain maximum yields. If convenient, you can tie the vines with soft pieces of fabric to the trellis so as not to pinch them.
Soil care
Soil care in a cucumber bed includes:
- weeding;
- loosening;
- mulching.
Loosen the soil regularly after each watering in order to loosen the soil density and provide good conditions for the development of the root system. Loosening is combined with weeding. This is necessary so that cucumbers do not compete with weeds for water and nutrients. In addition, weeds can attract pests.
Did you know? The largest harvest of cucumbers per plant occurred from March 24 to June 5, 2006 at the Walt Disney World Resort. A total of 2563 cucumbers were collected.
Mulching the soil is recommended in order to retain moisture after watering, interrupt the development of weeds and keep the soil loose. Mulch can be of organic origin: straw, spruce branches, leaves or industrial: agrofibre, spunbond, film. The recommended thickness of the layer of organic mulch is 5 cm. Do not lay mulch directly near the trunk. This is necessary to make it convenient to water the plants.
What is parthenocarpy
The word “parthenocarpy” itself is of Latin origin and loosely translated means “virgin fruit.” This name is absolutely correct, because with this phenomenon, fruits are formed without the exchange of pollen between the stamens and pistil and subsequent fertilization. There are two types of parthenocarpy - stimulatory and vegetative. In the first case, the stigma of the pistil is irritated by pollen of other plant species, and the fruit is formed exclusively from the mother cells (since gametes of different species or even subspecies cannot merge and form a new organism). In the second case, the fruit begins to develop from the organs of the flower without any outside intervention.
With parthenocarpy, fruits without seeds are formed. It happens less often that seeds are still formed, but there are no embryos in them.
Varieties
If gardeners are already accustomed to such concepts as “hybrid” or “modified species” and willingly plant the results of scientists’ work on their plots, then the complex word “parthenocarpic” does not yet inspire confidence. This concept is often confused with “self-pollinating” varieties, without taking into account the fundamental difference between them. Therefore, not everyone can appreciate all the advantages of such cucumbers, the main one of which is the formation of fruits in any conditions, regardless of the ratio of male and female flowers, the presence of insects and other intermediaries of pollination. Among the many parthenocarpic varieties today, several of the most popular stand out.
Chinese miracle
This parthenocarpic variety was bred in Eastern China, and adapted to the conditions of our climate by Russian scientists. In addition to the absence of the need for pollination, the advantage of the Chinese miracle is its very high productivity. This is a long-fruited cucumber, the greens of which reach 30-45 cm in length, and the total weight of vegetables collected from one bush reaches 15-20 kg. Parthenocarpic varieties of cucumbers take root well in greenhouses. The variety has good germination and disease resistance.
This variety also has some disadvantages: the fruits are difficult to store and cannot be pickled, the bushes branch very strongly and require a large area. Also remember that to obtain tasty and juicy cucumbers, proper timely watering/feeding is necessary.
Funny company
The parthenocarpic variety “Merry Company” belongs to the category of mid-season varieties. These cucumbers do not grow to large sizes and produce a large percentage of gherkins, which means they are excellent for pickling. Zelentsy are bright green, covered with hard spines and tubercles. The bushes are small and can be grown both in open ground and under film. The variety is most suitable for milking regions with a warm climate, without winds and sudden temperature changes.
Sturdy baby
A relatively young parthenocarpic hybrid, bred specifically for cultivation in a cool temperate climate zone. The species does not require special care other than regular, abundant watering. It bears fruits up to 10 cm long and weighing 85-90 g, which are perfectly stored and pickled. The variety is mid-early, the first fruits can be harvested already 55-60 days after germination. It tolerates temperature changes well and is resistant to diseases such as cladosporiosis and powdery (or downy) mildew.
Cucumbers of this variety can be planted either as seedlings (seedlings should be 20-25 days old) or as seeds. Plant bushes at a frequency of 3-4 plants per square meter.
White angel
A variety unique in its external and taste qualities. Mid-ripening, fruits ripen 50-60 days after planting. The fruits are cylindrical, tuberous and plump. The main distinguishing feature is the white-yellow color of the peel and the completely white flesh of cucumbers. The bushes are highly branched and the vines are quite long. They are planted only indoors and require very careful care: timely watering and fertilizing, regular pinching and pinching, vertical garter type. It is difficult to tolerate cucumber diseases, and has no immunity to them at all.
It is important to collect the fruits on time. When they reach a length of more than 6-7 cm, the skin becomes coarser and the sweetness of the pulp disappears.
Makar
The early ripening parthenocarpic variety "Makar" has a fairly high yield - up to 12 kg per bush. The fruits are also large, cylindrical-spindle-shaped, the length of which reaches 20 cm, and the weight varies from 60 to 120 g. The greens are covered with dense skin with whitish spines, have an excellent taste and good keeping quality. Makar is suitable for both indoor and open ground in any region of Russia. Seedlings are sown in April-May, and transferred to a permanent place after the threat of a sharp drop in temperature has passed. The bushes are tall and heavily branched, so think about the garter method in advance.
Geisha
A new parthenocarpic hybrid that perfectly tolerates temperature changes, drought, and mechanical damage. Geisha is an early ripening variety with good yield. The fruits are bright green, lumpy, small, up to 6 cm, excellent for pickling and pickling. In cold climates it requires planting seedlings, but it is better to grow it in greenhouses. Its important feature is the need for mineral supplements (potassium nitrate is perfect).
Heroic strength
This early ripening hybrid produces a large number of gherkin-type fruits. Thanks to the bunch type of flowering, up to 8 fruits are formed in one node, the size of which does not exceed 10-15 centimeters, and the skin is covered with small tubercles with soft spines. High yields are also supported by a long period of flowering and fruit formation; juicy Zelentsy can be collected throughout the summer. It is resistant to climatic conditions, but prefers greenhouse conditions or greenhouses. Belongs to the bunch variety of cucumbers. The bush turns out to be very branched, so you will have to often take stepson and pinch it.
Bogatyr strength is characterized by a stimulating type of parthenocarpy, therefore, on closed ground next to such cucumbers, there should be other pollinating varieties.
Agnes
This mid-early parthenocarpic hybrid bears its first fruits 30-40 days after the formation of the first true leaf. The cucumbers grow finely tuberous, juicy, of a regular cylindrical shape, their maximum length reaches 18-20 cm, and the weight of ripe greens can approach 100 g. They take root well in any conditions, are resistant to diseases (does not suffer from downy mildew at all). The bushes are of medium height, the vines are not particularly powerful and need careful staking. They bear fruit until the first frost, but by the end of the season the taste and keeping quality of the cucumbers deteriorate.
Landing Features
Planting and caring for parthenocarpic cucumbers may vary depending on the climate zone in which you live. For example, in warm southern regions you can plant cucumbers in greenhouses at the beginning of winter, but in temperate latitudes you shouldn’t even plant seedlings at this time. You can grow such hybrids in open ground, but a greenhouse will still provide you with a higher yield (and in general there is an opinion that in the open air the fruits turn out crooked and bitter). In any case, planting and caring for parthenocarpic cucumbers is subject to a number of general rules:
- Before planting, seeds should be soaked in warm water for a day or several days, and then dried;
- do not place the holes too close to each other, there should be a gap of 50-60 cm between the planted seeds (you can plant more often to ensure germination, but be sure to thin out afterwards);
- bury the seeds shallowly, maximum 1.5-2 cm;
- plant only when the threat of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up;
- Do not pinch the main stem under any circumstances, this is where the nodes will form;
- pinching should be carried out after the appearance of 6-7 true leaves;
- It is better to tie it vertically on trellises;
- When feeding, focus on mineral supplements and apply them in liquid form.
Parthenocarpic varieties are resistant to diseases, but can be attacked by pests. Chemical insecticides should not be used, since almost all varieties are early ripening and harmful substances will accumulate in the fruits. Wood ash will save you from insects, and marigolds planted nearby will protect the roots (flowers can be planted right around the holes, forming a kind of fence).
Features of harvesting and storage
Bush cucumbers are distinguished by the fact that their harvest ripens en masse and simultaneously. Harvest time is June–July (depending on the variety). When harvesting, cucumbers are carefully cut with pruning shears at a height of 1–2 cm of the stalk from the surface of the cucumber.
The collection is carried out daily - this stimulates further fruiting. The smaller the plucked specimens, the tastier they are. If the harvest is not pickled immediately, you can store it in the refrigerator, wrapped in plastic wrap. Shelf life 10–15 days.
Find out also what ways you can increase the yield of cucumbers.
It is advisable to grow bush cucumbers in small areas. They are also convenient because they do not require pinching, have no problems with pollination and are easy to care for. Experienced gardeners recommend trying to plant at least one new variety every year. If you know how to properly care for cucumbers, you will get a high yield.