Remontant strawberries: cultural features and rules of agricultural technology

Popular varieties

Varieties of remontant strawberries come without mustaches, which save gardeners space and time; there are varieties with mustaches, which are more resistant to heat and drought.

• Albion. The variety has powerful bushes, the berries are large, dark red, and oblong in shape. This variety produces a rich harvest, it is resistant to diseases, and the berries are easy to transport without damage. Has average frost resistance. Fruits in spring, summer and mid-September.
• Queen Elizabeth. Small variety. Some berries reach 100 grams, they are dark crimson in color, very juicy and fragrant. The culture tolerates winter well and is resistant to diseases. The whole season pleases with juicy berries.
• Lyubava. Red oval berries ripen on small bushes. The variety is winter-hardy and almost does not suffer from pests.
• Selva. The berries are aromatic, very large, regular in shape. The variety is characterized by high productivity and almost no disease. Winter resistant. But it is necessary to properly care for Selva, otherwise the berries will become small.
• Vima Rina. Ideal for dry areas. It tolerates heat well, the berries are large, sweet and sour.
• Mahern. The advantages of the variety are tasty, medium-sized berries and high yield. Can bear fruit in the shade.

Strawberry pruning

In October, remontant strawberry bushes are also pruned. This procedure is performed with sharp pruning shears. The instrument is pre-disinfected in a solution of potassium permanganate. You cannot pick off the leaves of remontant strawberries with your hands. This way you can easily damage the buds and the plants themselves. In this case, the bushes will not bear fruit the next year or even die in winter.

When pruning, first of all, remove the mustache and late peduncles that appear, if any. Such peduncles, like mustaches, take away from plants the strength they need for wintering. You can remove flower stalks without regret. The berries won’t have time to ripen anyway.

Also, when pruning in autumn, all diseased, dried and damaged leaves are removed from strawberry bushes. This operation should be performed carefully. When cutting leaves, you need to try not to damage the buds located in the axils. Their damage or removal may result in reduced strawberry yields for the following season.

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Dried, ugly and small strawberry leaves can be taken to the compost heap. They contain a fairly large amount of nutrients useful for garden crops. Leaves damaged by insects cannot, of course, be put into compost. They need to be burned along with dry branches and leaves of other plants collected from the area in the fall.

How to prepare strawberries for planting

Remontant strawberries love fertile soil, they just need good drainage. If possible, strawberries are planted on loamy soil. Sand is added to heavy soil before planting.

Planting remontant strawberries is effective after parsley, radishes or beans. The land after these crops is disinfected and enriched with nutrients. The site must be prepared in the fall to make it more convenient to plant bushes in the spring. The soil is dug up and all weeds are removed. Humus and fertilizers with phosphorus are added to the soil. The prepared soil is left to overwinter. In the spring, about three weeks before planting, rotted manure is added to the soil. And at the end of spring you can start planting strawberry crops.

Some gardeners believe that planting remontant strawberries in the fall is also possible, but in this case the work should be done in early September, while there is no frost on the soil.

Moisture-charging irrigation

If it rains frequently in the fall, it is not necessary to water your strawberries in October. Otherwise, so-called moisture-charging irrigation is carried out. At the beginning of autumn, after the last harvest of remontant strawberries is harvested, the amount of watering gradually begins to be reduced. In September, the beds are not moistened. Watering is carried out only in case of severe drying out of the soil.

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Water-recharging irrigation begins only in early to mid-October. Such watering is carried out once every 7 days. Strawberries are poured to the level of the root tips. The root system of strawberries is superficial. Therefore, there is no need to pour too much water into the beds in October.

How to plant berries

You can plant remontant strawberries using one of the following methods:

1. Nest method. This is the most convenient and popular way of planting remontant varieties of strawberries, if a variety that reproduces by tendrils is selected.
2. Carpet. Strawberry bushes are planted in the soil 20 cm apart. The result is a kind of planting squares, which will be filled over the years, since the strawberries grow quickly and strongly.
3. Ordinary method. The bushes are planted in rows, 20 cm are left between the bushes, but 70 cm between the rows. For planting, holes are made about 14 cm deep.

The root collar should remain level with the ground or slightly higher. Near the roots you can sprinkle fertilizer to promote rapid rooting, then sprinkle with soil.

Is it necessary to mulch?

Thus, in many cases it is not necessary to completely cover strawberries for the winter. But it is imperative to mulch this crop in the fall. The fact is that the lower leaves of strawberries act as natural mulch. After pruning, and even more so after complete cutting, there is practically no such natural mulch left on the beds. Therefore, strawberries should be artificially mulched.

Well-rotted manure, especially poultry manure, humus, compost, and sawdust mixed with ash are ideal as mulch for remontant varieties. If there are no mice on the site, you can mulch the beds with straw. Also, some summer residents mulch beds with remontant strawberries with fallen leaves collected on the site. Leaves for mulching can, of course, only be used from berry and ornamental shrubs or fruit or ordinary trees that are not infested with pests.

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Caring for remontant strawberries

Mandatory strawberry care includes:

• Fertilizing the crop.
• Proper watering.
• Loosening the soil followed by mulching.
• Pest control measures.
• Mustache trimming.

How to water strawberries

Strawberries of this variety need moisture more than ordinary berry crops. You can’t ignore watering if it’s +30°C outside. At the time when the fruits ripen, the soil should be moistened by three centimeters, no less. Mulching can be done to retain moisture.

Loosening the soil

After any moistening of the soil, loosening is necessary. This will improve the condition of the root system and open access to oxygen. You just need to do this carefully so as not to damage the fragile antennae.

You can make your life easier and immediately mulch with peat or dry grass. Then it will be possible not to loosen the beds with strawberries, but the effect will be the same: a crust will not form on the ground, moisture will remain in the ground longer.

How to fertilize strawberries

Feeding and fertilizing can be done simultaneously with watering. And it is not necessary to use complex chemical compounds. Many gardeners use a natural infusion of nettle or wormwood. The grass is crushed, filled with water and left for a week in the sun.

Watering with herbal infusion is beneficial for strawberries, as it contains a large amount of microelements necessary for its development. You can additionally feed the strawberry bushes with bird droppings diluted with water in a ratio of 1:15. Cow dung can also be used, but it needs to be diluted 1:10.

How to protect a plant

If you do not properly care for remontant strawberries in the fall, the crop may become diseased. The most common cause is a fungal infection. Powdery mildew and brown spot affect strawberry leaves. During the cool season, gray rot develops. The affected areas must be removed, then sprayed with fungicides.

The most common pest that appears on remontant strawberries is the strawberry mite. After harvesting the entire crop, it is necessary to spray the bushes with a solution of karbofos.

Removing a mustache

Strawberry tendrils must be removed regularly, otherwise the number of berries will sharply decrease and the planting will become overgrown with a large number of shoots. You can leave only a few antennae for reproduction, and the rest must be cut off for the winter.

Fertilizing strawberries after fruiting and in the fall

In addition to applying fertilizers in the spring before the strawberries begin to bloom , you need to carry out a similar event after harvesting, namely immediately after pruning and already in the fall before the plant leaves for the winter.

By the way! Read more about autumn feeding of strawberries after fruiting in this article .

Immediately after summer pruning of strawberries, the bushes require nitrogen to restore green mass for winter.

Actually, this is what you can feed strawberries after fruiting (all under the bush, without getting on the leaves):

• Ammonia (2 tablespoons of ammonia in 10 liters of water).
• A solution or better yet, a daily infusion of mullein (1 to 10), or bird (chicken) droppings (1 to 20).
• Green fertilizer (3-4-day infusion of herbs, it is optimal to use nettle infusion ).
• Ammonium nitrate (10-20 grams per 10 liters of water).

Advice! Feeding with nitrogen fertilizer during this period should be done carefully to prevent the plant from fattening.

Already in the fall (although some give a second “autumn” feeding almost immediately after the first, a couple of days later, but it is better to do this no earlier than the end of summer) - it’s time to feed the strawberries with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (so that the bushes better develop flower buds, immunity and root system the plants have become stronger before wintering ). Wood ash is best suited as such an organic fertilizer . For example, you can add 1 tbsp under each bush. spoons of ash, mixed with fertile soil, or poured with an ash solution, or even better, a daily infusion or even an extract (2 glasses per 10 liters of water), consumption - 0.5 liters per bush. You can also apply foliar feeding (spraying) on ​​the leaves with an ash solution, but in this case it is better to reduce the concentration by 2 times.

Preparatory work in the fall

For remontant strawberries, several winter months are a real test, especially if the winter has little snow. In the fall, it is necessary to properly carry out all the work to prepare the berry crop for winter so that the strawberry rosettes do not freeze. Strawberries should meet the winter with sufficiently increased green mass. It will protect the plant buds from frost.

Gardeners need to check every bush. The root collar should not stick out of the ground; you need to sprinkle it with earth. At the end of summer, the ground around the bushes is loosened and then mulched.

If the winter is snowy, it will reliably cover all the bushes. But what to do if there is no snow at all? In this case, leaves or hay will become shelter. Such materials will protect the crop from frost, but they are not very convenient, they get wet from moisture, and in the spring it is very difficult to clean strawberry rosettes from them.

With frequent thaws and high humidity, the bushes may dry out. Another drawback is that mice like to spend the winter under straw; they can damage the roots.

How to cover strawberries for the winter

It is better to give preference to spruce branches and dry raspberry branches for shelter. They will provide breathability and also prevent mice from creating a nest there with their thorns. Pine needles retain heat and prevent damping off. Large strawberry bushes can be covered with pine needles in a circle; young bushes can be completely covered. If there is very little snow and the temperature drops below 25 degrees, the pine needles will protect the strawberry bushes.

Not all gardeners manage to get spruce branches for shelter. Then you can purchase Agrotex, a covering material with a density of 60 g/m2. meter. This non-woven material transmits light perfectly. Rodents don't like it.

Arches are attached over the strawberry beds in the fall, Agrotex is pulled over them and secured. The soil under such a shelter will not freeze. The temperature will be regular, temperature fluctuations are excluded. This type of shelter is suitable for use in small areas. You can take spunbond or polyethylene film. It’s just not recommended to lay them directly on plants without arches, otherwise there will certainly be freezing at the points of contact.

The row spacing must also be protected, otherwise the soil will crack to great depths in winter without snow. Plant roots may be damaged. For protection, mulching is necessary.

Don't start covering too early. Plants should be hardened off a little so they can overwinter more easily. With a gradual decrease in temperature, remontant strawberries will undergo pre-winter hardening. It is also necessary to take into account climatic conditions. In Siberia, you shouldn’t delay taking shelter. And in some warm areas, strawberries can overwinter without any shelter at all.

Growing remontant strawberries is not difficult if you follow all the care recommendations.

More detailed information can be found in the video.

Features of remontant strawberries

Strawberries belong to the category of herbaceous perennial plants. The fruiting period begins at the end of June and ends at the end of July. Unlike the usual one, in the remontant one this time period is prolonged. The first berries appear in early June, and the last fruits are harvested in October.

By remontant we mean the ability of plants to bear fruit multiple times during one growing season.

Remontant strawberries produce a harvest about 4 months a year

Main characteristics

With proper planting, the first berries are obtained in the first year of sowing. Over the next 2 years, the harvest is harvested from June until the onset of frost.

Indicators:

1. The flowering and fruiting period is from 4 to 5 months.
2. The first fruits of remontant strawberries ripen at the same time as garden ones. The opening season harvest is small.
3. The main berry harvest occurs at the end of August and September.

The long flowering period is caused by the specific growth of inflorescences and shoots. For the formation of flower buds, remontant varieties need long daylight hours - from 14 to 17 hours, and fairly high daily temperatures - not lower than 15°C. Regular strawberries require 12 hours of daylight and low air temperatures.

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Prices for remontant strawberry seeds

remontant strawberry

Advantages and disadvantages

The main advantage of these varieties is long fruiting and high yield.

In addition, compared to garden varieties, the following positive aspects are noted in remontant varieties:

1. Less susceptibility to disease. This property is explained by frequent transplantation to a new place. The frequency of changing beds is once every 3 years.
2. Possibility of obtaining up to 1000 berries from one bush. This mainly applies to beardless representatives, such as the Alpine remontant strawberry.
3. Bushes can be used to decorate flower beds. Both flowering and fruiting bushes look beautiful.
4. Color variety. Varieties with yellow and white berries have been developed.
5. Grows well in open ground and at home. Many gardeners successfully grow strawberries on the balcony.
6. Most species adapt well to different climatic zones and soil types. Growing this crop is possible even in Siberia. If inflorescences are damaged during frost, new ones quickly grow in their place.
7. The harvest is produced by 1-year-old bushes. Garden strawberries begin to bear fruit in the second year after planting.
8. There are many beardless varieties. Such varieties are easier to propagate and care for due to the elimination of the need to remove the mustache rosettes.
9. Large size berries. Wild and garden varieties produce predominantly small fruits.
10. Berries ripen 7 days earlier than conventional varieties. This is due to the intensive growth of remontant varieties.
11. More vitamins. Caused by a long growing season, which gives the plant the opportunity to absorb a maximum of useful elements.

Strawberry bushes are often used as an element of landscape design

Remontant strawberries contain 40 times more iron than grapes and rank first among berry and fruit crops in calcium content. In addition, it contains a lot of vitamins C, group B, pectin and folic acid.

The content of ascorbic acid is 120 mg per 100 g of fresh berries

Of the minuses, gardeners note the following:

1. Frequent change of beds. A good harvest is observed only in the first 2 years. Then the culture must be replanted.
2. Need for a lot of snow. In order for the crop to survive the winter well, the minimum height of the snow layer should be 30 cm.
3. Increased demands on nutrition and moisture. Summers with low rainfall have a negative impact on crop yields.

Despite the present disadvantages, the benefits of growing remontant varieties are clear. Some gardeners are confused by the weak quantitative indicators of the first harvest. However, they are more than compensated for by subsequent abundant fruiting.

Varieties of repair strawberries

The main difference between existing varieties is the presence or absence of whiskers.

The most widespread among summer residents are the beardless varieties.

The process of propagation of “mustachioed” varieties occurs by separating and planting the rosettes formed at the tips of the mustache. For bare strawberries, the method of dividing the bushes is used.

In addition to this classification, categories of varieties are distinguished depending on their relationship to sunlight.

Table 1. Categories of varieties

Some varieties of repair strawberries have a specific feature. Flower stalks form on unsprouted tendrils, which bear fruit with berries of the same size as on the parent bushes.

The best varieties are those that are not tied to daylight hours.

Landing rules

To enjoy juicy berries for as long as possible, you should take the rules for planting strawberries responsibly. First of all, you need to decide on the variety.

Variety selection

The number of types of repair strawberries increases every year. Breeders experiment with the crop, taking into account the climatic features of the area and soil structure.

Table 2. Varieties of varieties

Linosa has a long shelf life

Seed selection and preparation

Both purchased and self-harvested seeds are sorted out and specimens are left free of rot and plaque. Before planting in the ground, grains are allowed to go through all the stages characteristic of growth under natural conditions:

1. Hardening. Mix the seeds with soil and place in the refrigerator for several hours.
2. Hydration. Place in a plastic bag filled with cool water and place in the refrigerator for 3 days.

After the preparatory stage, seedlings begin. The seeds, previously rolled in sand, are planted in shallow containers made of transparent material. The soil is sifted before laying.

Landing dates

It is advisable to plant the seeds in pots before March. Otherwise, the culture will not have time to be accepted. If you plan to propagate bushes by tendrils or division, the optimal time of year is early summer. Remontant varieties are planted from the beginning of spring until the first days of September. Seedlings planted in summer and autumn will produce a full harvest only next year.

To prevent the shoots from being washed out, water with a diffuse stream.

Selecting a location

Before planting seedlings, you need to be prepared for the fact that after 3 years they will have to be replanted. This will protect plants from pests that inevitably accumulate in any soil over a long period of operation.

The planting site should be changed every 3 years

A sunny area and level soil in which water does not stagnate are preferable. The optimal soil is slightly acidic sandy loam or loamy soil.

It is welcome if calendula, carrots, beets, garlic, hyacinths, legumes, crocuses and tulips grew in the area before the strawberries. It is not advisable to plant in soil in which raspberries, potatoes, cabbage and cucumbers grew.

Carrots and beets prepare the soil well for remontant strawberries

Pre-planting soil preparation

Before placing the seedlings in the ground, loosen the soil using a fork. They are more effective than shovels in removing weeds whose rhizomes have penetrated deep into the soil.

Then fertilize the ground with a mixture consisting of the following components:

• 1 bucket of compost;
• 20 g of potassium sulfate;
• 5 kg of wood ash;
• 40 g double superphosphate.

Instead of potassium and superphosphate, it is permissible to use “Kalifos” at the rate of 1 tbsp. per 1 m2.

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Superphosphate prices

superphosphate

Planting methods

Proper organization of land space for cultivating plants is a guarantee of a good harvest. The most popular method is the two-line bush method.

Existing planting patterns

Experienced gardeners recommend planting several different crops in one area. Garlic and strawberries are considered a good combination. A representative of alliums growing nearby will protect the plant from slugs and other harmful insects.

General landing rules:

1. The width of the bed ranges from 90 cm to 1 m.
2. The depth of the hole is 25 cm.
3. The distance between bushes is 50 cm.
4. To ensure that each bush is clearly visible, the beds are raised.
5. There are small paths between the rows for easy care of the bushes.
6. The holes are fertilized with an organic mixture of 2 cups of wood ash, 1 bucket of compost and chernozem and 2 liters of vermicompost.

It is prohibited to grow tomatoes next to strawberries.

The depth of the holes for the sprouts is of great importance. When excessively immersed in the ground, the bush grows slowly. If they are located superficially, strawberry roots freeze or become oversaturated with rainwater.

In order to prevent moisture evaporation during the dry period, the lower leaves are cut off when planting, leaving only those that have fully opened. In addition, this measure accelerates the establishment of seedlings in the soil.

With proper planting, you can collect up to 3 buckets of berries from a 7-meter area