How to properly and when is the best time to plant strawberries in open ground, preparing the beds

Preparing a bed for strawberries usually begins in the summer. At the end of July or August, it is time to decide on the method of forming ridges, select a site, prepare soil and fertilizers. Don't know where to start to properly prepare your strawberry bed? So, our article today is just for you.

Everyone's favorite berry is grown in a variety of ways. And it’s impossible to count how many options for beds gardeners use! Here are some of them:

• simple bulk;
• tall;
• trenches;
• pyramidal;
• vertical;
• decorative.

Each type has its pros and cons, and we will talk about them. But first, you and I have to find out what kind of soil strawberries prefer, where and how best to place the beds, what fertilizers need to be added to the soil before planting.

Selection of planting material

Good seedlings take root better, the bushes grow quickly and produce large fruits. For planting, choose young rosettes that grow on the mustache. How to choose planting material from your own dacha:

1. Rosettes are taken from bushes that have a high yield and are healthy. The age of the bush is 2-3 years.
2. The rooted rosettes closest to the bush are chosen as planting material. You need to prepare them in advance by pinning the socket to the ground. After harvesting, they quickly grow.
3. You should not divide old dug up bushes for replanting.
4. Rosettes are chosen with the most powerful roots - the green part is not so important.

When purchasing strawberry seedlings, pay attention to healthy leaves (at least 5) and light, developed roots. If the bushes have flower stalks, the buds should be large. It is better to purchase varieties of the first reproduction.

Preparing strawberry seedlings for planting in open ground

Regardless of whether you buy strawberry planting material in a store or grow seedlings at home, the strongest and healthiest plants should get into the soil.

What should a strawberry seedling be like before planting? A high-quality seedling must have at least 3-5 well-developed leaves (bright color, without spots or withered), a developed fibrous root system with roots 6-8 cm long (light and fairly thin), a root collar with a diameter of about 6-7 mm.

This applies to all types of strawberry seedlings - both purchased and independently grown, as well as plants with open and closed root systems.

You can purchase strawberry seedlings with both closed and open root systems. In the first case, these are seedlings without root isolation, in the second - seedlings grown from seeds, or rooted last year in cassettes or containers. As a rule, the second one costs more, but it also takes root much better. In any case, when purchasing, you should carefully inspect the strawberry seedlings. Plants with an open root system (ERS) must meet all the requirements described above, and when purchasing seedlings in containers (ZKS), choose those whose roots tightly fill the container, but do not stick out from the drainage holes.

Before planting in the garden, strawberry seedlings should be kept outdoors in an open box in the shade. If you decide that the seedlings with an open root system have somewhat dry roots, you can soak them in water for 20-30 minutes before planting (it’s a good idea to add a growth stimulant there).

What kind of soil do strawberries like?

Strawberries produce the best harvest on loamy and sandy soils, although it cannot be said that the crop is very demanding on the composition of the soil. On such soils, organic fertilizers are applied to the site in the fall while digging and removing weeds. Consumption – 5 liters per square meter. The composition is also improved with complex mineral fertilizers.

Heavy soils are lightened with peat, sand, and sawdust. To reduce the acidity of peat, lime is used; it will make the composition neutral. Sawdust is soaked in urea for several days before application.

Strawberries grow best on slightly acidic soil with a pH of about 6. Reduce acidity with lime or dolomite flour, and if there is a deficiency, raise it with peat. If the groundwater in the area is high (above 0.8 meters), the beds are made in bulk.

How to prepare a place

Before setting up traditional strawberry beds, the area must be thoroughly cleaned and dug up, even if this was done in the fall. Add humus to the soil (1 bucket per 1 sq. m). When the beds are ready, mark them for planting in the form of stripes, not forgetting about the furrows where excess water will go. The culture does not like a lot of moisture. From its excess, rot with an abundance of parasites forms near the roots. It is not recommended to make the grooves for landing too deep.

How far apart should you plant strawberries?

There are several schemes for planting strawberries:

• in single rows - the distance between the bushes is 25-30 centimeters, the row spacing is 35-40 centimeters;
• in double rows - the distance between the bushes is 25-30 centimeters, the same distance with the adjacent row, the row spacing is 40-50 centimeters.

Some gardeners plant strawberries in a carpet or individual bushes in convenient places. Plants, when planted alone, are powerful, with high yields and large berries. To choose the right distance between bushes, you need to know the characteristics of the variety and the size of the plants.

Help: it is allowed to plant different varieties of strawberries next to each other, since they do not have a negative effect on each other, and cross-pollination does not occur.

Where to plant on the site

For strawberry plantations, choose flat, well-lit areas without drafts. The place should be open and shaded only for a small part of the day. Lowlands where puddles accumulate and where cold air descends during frosts are not used for planting.

Slopes should also be avoided - snow is blown off them in winter by strong winds, the bushes remain defenseless against frost, and in spring there is a risk of the roots being exposed by running water. A slope of no more than 5° is allowed.

We also note that strawberries like to coexist with parsley, garlic and legumes. Some summer residents even manage to plant garlic between the rows of strawberries.

Important: strawberries can grow in one place for no more than four years.

Where to make beds

The taste of the berries will depend on the place of cultivation. If strawberries are to be consumed fresh, they should be planted in open areas illuminated by the sun, as they love light and warmth. Lowlands where the soil freezes even at the end of spring are not suitable for the crop. It is allowed to grow it in shaded areas: in this case, it will gain less sugar, but will gain flavor. This berry is ideal for preparing for the winter.

It is not recommended to plant strawberries next to fruit trees such as plum, cherry, apple, and apricot. It is not advisable to plant it in areas where roses, rose hips, blackberries, raspberries, and strawberries have recently grown. It is best to create beds in areas where legumes or lettuce grew.

Timing

Strawberries are planted in two time periods:

1. Summer autumn. Plants must take root well, so autumn planting should not be delayed. They wait for the heat to go away and plant them out. On average - from mid-August to the end of September. The period is chosen according to the characteristics of the region. Planting strawberry seedlings in the fall gives a significant advantage; there will be a full harvest next year.
2. Spring. Planting is carried out when the soil has warmed up and the threat of frost has passed, but before real warmth begins. The dates are selected based on the characteristics of the area - from April in the southern regions to May-early June in cold regions.

Note that you need to prepare the bed for spring planting of strawberries in August-September. Bushes are planted in the absence of sun - in the evening and morning hours or in cloudy weather.

Strawberry planting dates in spring

Everything depends on weather conditions.

Important! This procedure can be carried out when the air temperature is stable and not lower than 15 degrees Celsius .

• In the central zone and in the Moscow region - April 15-30.
• In the South - April 1-20.
• In the Volga region - April 20-30.
• In the Urals, Siberia and Leningrad region - May 20-30.

Important! These terms are conditional. The main thing is to be guided by the weather, as it can be different in different years.

It is also worth studying the lunar calendar. Unfavorable and favorable days for planting strawberries can be found in the article: Lunar sowing calendar

Planting methods

Breeders and gardeners knowledgeable in agriculture have developed several interesting and convenient ways of planting strawberries - everyone makes the choice themselves.

See also

How often should strawberries be watered during berry ripening and fruiting? Read

Trapezoidal beds

This planting method helps improve the drainage of the area under the strawberries. The ridge is raised above the general level of the garden, which is convenient for high groundwater levels. An earthen platform is made for the plants, and branches and dried grass are placed in the lower part. The edges are reinforced with a wooden or other frame. A fertile substrate and geofabric are laid on top of the ground, into the holes of which strawberries are planted.

Advantages - the roots are inaccessible to pests, weeds do not grow. A warm bed protects plants from winter freezing.

Film tunnels

This method of planting strawberries is best suited for early harvest and for areas where cold snaps occur frequently. For film shelter, arcs are placed on which the film is pulled, forming a greenhouse. The strawberries are kept in a warm greenhouse, where temperature and humidity are maintained. When it freezes, additional film is pulled over the structure to protect against hypothermia.

Such greenhouses need ventilation; in case of excess humidity and high temperature, the film is removed to dry and cool.

Plastic bags

Mobile beds can be arranged in large-volume plastic bags. They are filled with fertile soil and fertilized. Holes are made to plant strawberries. Provides complete watering.

Disadvantages are poor root ventilation and rapid depletion of the soil, which will have to be changed frequently.

Vertical bed

Planting in a vertical direction is the choice of summer residents with a small plot area. There are several main methods for manufacturing such structures; you can purchase a ready-made, factory-made one (trukar).

Strawberries are planted in iron barrels, large pots, plastic bottles, PVC pipes, and wooden slides. Holes are made to plant bushes. It is important to provide for the possibility of watering and ensure proper drainage so that water does not stagnate in the lower part of the structure. The main disadvantages of this type of planting are the small amount of land for plants and the difficulty of sheltering during frosts.

Soil preparation

Practicing gardeners recommend preparing the soil in the fall: digging it up, treating it from pathogenic spores and wintering insect pests, mulching it, preventing the active growth of weeds. Then in the spring all that remains is to loosen the soil.

High-quality fruiting of strawberries largely depends on the composition of the soil, the presence of a sufficient amount of nutrients in it, and on the influence of “predecessor” crops. It’s a good idea to do an approximate chemical analysis in the laboratory in advance, find out which microelements are present in the soil and which ones are missing in order to apply fertilizing in accordance with the data obtained.

Both beginners and experienced gardeners can take advantage of a quick method of checking parameters using a self-soil test kit (Luster Leaf, etc.)

More expensive models of digital analyzers allow you to make the necessary measurements of fertility, in particular, determine the percentage of the main macroelements - nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium.

Autumn filling of the soil with fertilizers guarantees abundant fruiting of Victoria in the next season and affects the general immunity of plants. In this case, it is preferable to use mineral complexes (nitrogen, potassium salts, superphosphate) in dry, granular form. It is better to apply liquid fertilizer in the spring, directly under the planted bushes. Usually during this period the earth is still saturated with melt water; abundant watering is not required.

Features of planting in a greenhouse

To grow strawberries in greenhouses, self-pollinating remontant varieties are chosen. The favorite of all summer residents, Elizabeth 2, is ideal for this.

The soil must be thoroughly disinfected and treated with fungicides, since strawberries suffer from fungal diseases with high humidity. Recommended humidity is 70-80%. When planting early, provide illumination for 12-14 hours.

The location of the beds is chosen based on the capabilities of the greenhouse; many prefer vertical cultivation. Seedlings are transplanted into greenhouses when it is possible to maintain a temperature of 20-22 °. We must not forget to open the greenhouse for ventilation.

Strawberry care

Caring for strawberries is not difficult, but constant care is required. After rains and watering, the soil is loosened to saturate it with oxygen; Mulching helps make maintenance easier.

Watering and fertilizing

Homemade strawberries are watered 1-2 times a week, avoiding stagnation of water and drying out. The best time is morning and evening. Do not pour water on the leaves in bright sun to avoid burns. It is convenient to use drip irrigation systems in which you can dose the water supply. It is better to water with settled warm water to prevent the roots from rotting.

Feeding is carried out several times during the season:

• in early spring - after the snow melts, fertilizers with nitrogen (manure, chicken droppings) for better growth of the green part;
• during flowering - complex mineral fertilizers with potassium, yeast, spraying with a solution with microelements;
• during fruiting - organic fertilizers at the root, after fruiting - herbal infusion, urea;
• in the fall - for greater winter hardiness and recuperation (nitrophoska, ash, manure solution).

It is convenient to apply chelates for fertilizing.

Tip: It is especially important to fertilize remontant varieties and vertical beds in which strawberries grow in a small amount of soil.

Treatment

Strawberries need to be loosened to a depth of 10 centimeters to create air flow to the roots. Weeds are removed along with the roots. If the area is heavily infested, herbicide treatment is carried out before planting strawberries on the site.

To avoid fungal and other diseases, the bushes are sprayed:

• infusion of hay;
• mustard infusion;
• infusion of garlic.

You can also sprinkle the bushes with wood ash.

Trimming

Strawberry bushes are pruned several times a season, carefully, trying not to damage the buds:

• in the spring, remove old leaves and make room for young greenery;
• in the summer - cut out damaged leaves, remove unnecessary rosettes, create comfortable conditions for growth for those that you decide to leave;
• after the harvest is complete, old leaves are removed, making room for young ones;
• in the fall - the foliage is not completely removed, only diseased leaves are cut out and infected bushes are dug up.

The leaves are cut, leaving a short petiole, protecting the bud from damage. In the first year, all rosettes are removed, allowing the strawberries to get stronger.

Mulching

When growing strawberries, experienced gardeners recommend using soil mulching. This not only reduces the need for frequent watering and protects against weeds, but also protects the berries from soil contamination and rotting.

Two classes of materials are used as mulch - organic and synthetic fabrics. After digging, the organic matter loosens the soil and turns into a complete fertilizer for garden strawberries. Materials used:

• straw, hay;
• dry grass;
• sawdust;
• peat, rotted compost;
• soil substrate of a coniferous forest - needles, cones, small twigs;
• geotextiles.

Often less traditional materials are used for mulch - paper, moss. Let us remind you that the materials are treated with fungicides and the top layer is regularly replaced.

Preparing for winter

For successful wintering of strawberries, the following activities are carried out:

• removing diseased leaves and bushes, do not cut off the completely green part;
• treatment against pests and diseases (Bordeaux mixture);
• watering - abundance depending on the weather;
• fertilizing - any type of organic matter.

Covering and mulching are carried out in regions where there is a risk of strawberries freezing. Covering with mulch or earth is used even in warm regions; they will protect if there is a lack of snow.

Covering materials for strawberry beds

Agrofibre (spunbond) is a dense (17-150 g/sq.m) polypropylene material that is used for mulching (covering) the soil. There are white, black or black and white agrofibre.

Light material reflects the sun's rays and prevents roots from overheating in summer, warms plants in winter and protects plantings from the adverse effects of the external environment (wind, hail).

Dark spunbond heats up well and is suitable depending on the density:

• for winter shelter (80 g/sq.m);
• for year-round mulching (60 g/sq.m);
• to increase yield (17-60 g/sq.m).

At any density, it prevents the germination of weeds.

Black and white agrofibre provides comprehensive protection.

Disease and pest control

Throughout the season, the bushes are inspected, diseased leaves and plants are removed. Preventative treatment in spring and autumn, when there is no flowering or fruiting yet, helps to avoid infection. Of the strawberry diseases, most are fungal in nature - fusarium, late blight, gray rot. Fungicides are used for treatment (Alirin, Vectra, colloidal sulfur, copper sulfate). Dilute according to instructions.

Among the most common pests:

• nematode;
• whitefly;
• aphid;
• mole cricket;
• weevil;
• strawberry mite

The choice of drug is carried out after identifying insects. They use Inta-Vir, Karbofos, Commander. Treatment against diseases and pests is carried out simultaneously with fertilizing, preferably preventively.

How to choose the best seedlings

Not only the survival rate of plants on the site, but also the likelihood of obtaining high-quality berries with the best taste once a year or several times depends on the correct choice of the variety of grown strawberries.
The basis of plantings (about 80% of the total area allocated for strawberries) should be seedlings of proven, zoned varieties included in the State Register of Breeding Achievements. And only a small part of the territory can be given to “newcomers”.

Along with purchased plants, pests and pathogenic bacteria can enter vegetable gardens and garden plots. Therefore, every gardener should know how to evaluate the quality of planting material.

External signs that you should be wary of:

1. Spots and dots on leaves. If they are present in small quantities on plants at the end of summer, then you can buy seedlings; these fungal manifestations do not pose a great danger.
2. Wrinkling of growing leaves. If they are collected in an accordion and do not unfold, it means that a strawberry mite has settled on the bushes and you cannot buy them.
3. Leaves too pale. Late blight necrosis of horns is possible, a dangerous quarantine disease against which there are no effective measures; first the horns die off, and then the plants die.

But healthy and strong seedlings look completely different:

• its leaves have a rich green color and may be shiny or slightly pubescent;
• the diameter of the horn is at least 0.7 cm, its thickness is directly related to the further development and productivity of seedlings;
• characterized by a developed root system.

The length of the roots of young bushes must certainly exceed 7 cm. If a healthy plant is grown in a peat container, the roots will certainly penetrate through it in many places.

You can purchase high-quality planting material from plant growing institutes engaged in the research and development of new varieties of strawberries, from large nurseries, or from sellers who care about their reputation.

What to plant after strawberries next year

After moving a strawberry plantation to another site, the following crops grow well in its place:

• carrot;
• legumes;
• greenery;
• cabbage;
• garlic.

Some summer residents grow melons and melons in their strawberry plots. If it is possible not to occupy this area for vegetables, it is worth planting green manure.

Possible errors during landing

Let's look at the most common mistakes made by inexperienced gardeners that interfere with the full growth of strawberries:

1. Incorrect timing. Plants suffer from heat or cold and do not have time to grow stronger and take root.
2. We made a mistake with the variety - the bushes are low-yielding, the plant’s strength goes into greenery (Zhmurka, Dubnyak).
3. Excessively long roots had to be bent, which led to poor development of the strawberries.
4. Sick plants were planted - no pre-planting treatment was carried out.
5. The bud is too deep into the ground or raised too high.
6. The disadvantage of fertilizing is that the yield is low and the berries are small.
7. Wrong fertilizers are chosen - excessive growth of the green part, fruits are not set.

Strawberries love sunny areas and do not grow well in the shade - the berries are small and sour. Growing delicious large strawberries is the dream of every summer resident. After the end of fruiting, the worries of summer residents do not end. You have to work on a strawberry plantation all season. Only with constant care will the bushes produce a bountiful harvest, and the berries will delight you with their size, taste and aroma.