Autumn pruning of two-year-old grapes for the winter

Grape pruning

- one of the most difficult events held at the dacha.
Sometimes it is difficult to figure out how to prune grapes
and when.

Pruning a grape bush comes down to cutting off 90 percent of the vine, leaving the required number of eyes (buds).

Let's take a closer look at the secrets of proper pruning of grapevines.

, starting from the first year of planting.

Pruning of grapes can be done both in spring and autumn. When pruning in the fall, it is advisable to cover the bush for the winter, protecting it from freezing. If your area has harsh winters, prune in the spring or cover the vine for the winter. By the way, unpruned grapes withstand winter better.

Features of the structure and names of parts of the grapevine

The base of the trunk, which is located underground, is called the heel

, roots grow from it.

Stamb

- part of the stem up to the first lateral shoot, like all trees. In grapes, part of the stem is also underground, ending at the heel.

Head

- a thickening on the main stem from which side shoots extend.

Sleeves (shoulders)

- these are side shoots extending from the main stem. And the eyes on them are the same kidneys.

There are terms that need to be remembered: fruit arrow and substitution knot.

fruit arrow

– a long-cut sleeve, on which 8-12 buds are left after trimming.

Substitution knot

– short sleeve, after trimming there are 2-4 eyes left.

Fruit link

– a pair of shoots consisting of a replacement knot and a fruit shoot. We've sorted out all the names, let's move on to the secrets of pruning grapes.

Formation of grape bushes

There are a huge variety of options for forming a grapevine. Let's focus on the simplest and most understandable form - shoots to grow not vertically, but horizontally.

Video – Grapes Bush pruning

Stepsoning

During the growing season, the stepsons (second-order shoots that grow in the leaf axils of the main shoots) are removed from the annual green shoots of the current year. This is necessary so that secondary shoots do not take away part of the nutrition and thicken the bushes. It is not recommended to remove entire stepsons; it is best to pinch them over the first or second leaf.

Grape planting scheme

It is not recommended to plant a bush that has grown few leaves this year.

Formation of grapes in the first year

In spring, the 2 lowest buds are left on the central shoot, the rest is cut off. Grow 2 shoots from them, and tie them up obliquely in different directions.

In late autumn, when all the leaves have fallen, this cannot be done earlier, otherwise the grapes will bleed juice, shortening the shoots. We leave one shoot short, leaving 2 buds, the second shoot is left long, leaving 4 buds. For the winter, remove the grapevine from the trellis and cover it.

Formation of grapes in the second year

In the spring, after the threat of severe frosts has passed (early April), remove the shelter and tie the vine to the bottom wire of the trellis, with the tops in different directions.

The stems growing from the buds shoot vertically upward or with a slight inclination away from the center of the bush.

In autumn, after the leaves fall, the long sleeve is cut off leaving 2 shoots. The sleeves will become the same. Then cut off the vertical stems: those that are closer to the center and lower along the main stem, cut off leaving 2 buds. This will be a substitution knot.

Vertical stems located further should be trimmed, leaving 4 buds - these will be fruit arrows. We remove the vine and cover it for the winter.

Formation of grapes in the third year

In the spring, after the frosts have passed, remove the cover from the grapevine. Tie long fruit arrows to the bottom wire of the trellis horizontally, with their tops in opposite directions.

Substitution knots

leave to grow vertically. During the summer, stems will grow from all the buds. At the beginning of August, carry out chasing - trimming the stems by 10-20 cm. This will increase the quality and quantity of berries.

Do not chase before August, otherwise a mass of shoots will appear on the vine.

in autumn

, after leaf fall, cut off the outermost 4 vertical shoots with part of the sleeve.

As a result, on each shoulder there will be one link with two vertical shoots. They should be pruned in the same way as in the second year. Cut off the shoot closest to the center, leaving 2 buds, and leaving the ones further away with 4 buds.

For all subsequent years of growth of the grape bush, pruning should be carried out in the same way as in the third year.

Attention: for greater reliability and reserve, you can leave more buds on the shoots, but no more than 10 on each. This is done in case of frost damage.

For example, the optimal number is 3 buds on replacement knots and 6-7 buds on fruit shoots. In the spring, if all the buds have survived, the excess ones can be cut off.

Video – Grapes Bush pruning

Here are the main secrets for pruning grapes in the fall, the observance of which will be the key to obtaining a high-quality and large harvest of berries.

Forming the crown of shrubs or fruit trees is one of the least favorite processes for gardeners, especially beginners. This also applies to grape plantings, which are in demand, but have some difficulties in care. As at other stages of development, pruning two-year-old grapes in the fall has different characteristics and trends.

Grape feeding

If the shoots have stopped growing, they need not only to be watered, but also fed with complex mineral fertilizer with a low nitrogen content. If the vine, on the contrary, is growing rapidly, the number of waterings should be reduced, nitrogen should be eliminated and the doses of phosphorus (superphosphate) and potassium (potassium sulfate) fertilizers should be increased.

The main feeding of grapes is carried out in the fall during mulching. To do this, dig a trench at a distance of 1 m from the trunks along the vineyard with a depth of 60-70 cm. 7-8 kg of rotted manure and 100 g of sifted ash are added there (per 1 sq.m of vineyard).

During the ripening of the berries, 2 foliar feedings are carried out (on the leaves). First, use a mixture of baking soda (10 g), potassium salt (10 g) and iodine (4 ml), diluted in 10 liters of water. A week later, the plants are sprayed with a different composition: 3 g of boric acid is dissolved in a small amount of warm water, 30 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium salt, 1 g of potassium permanganate are added, and the resulting mixture is diluted in 10 liters of water.

Why is grape pruning done?

Pruning grape bushes is an important stage in plant care, which consists of cutting out branches at different stages of development. The procedure is based on the following goals:

aesthetic (formation of a crown of the correct shape);
fruitful (increased yield volumes, improved access of light to bunches, accelerated ripening time);
health (increasing the plant’s immunity to diseases, severe frosts, temperature changes);
labor-intensive (facilitation and reduction of time and effort spent on harvesting, in preparation for winter).

As shrubs mature, they need to be cleared of dry, non-developing, densely planted shoots. Without such intervention, indicators of health, development, and fruiting decrease, taste quality deteriorates, and the berries become smaller. In addition to old branches, annual shoots are cut or shortened in the fall in order to direct the growth of the shrub in the desired direction, and in winter to avoid rotting of the unripe parts under the shelter.

What documents regulate the quality of seedlings and cuttings?

The quality of planting material is regulated by GOST. In the Russian Federation there is a separate GOST for cuttings (GOST R 53050-2008) and for grape seedlings (GOST 31783-2012). These documents are intended for industry and planting material producers. When buying cuttings and seedlings for yourself, no one will delve into official documents. For ease of understanding, when purchasing seedlings or cuttings, I suggest using these tables, which I tried to translate as much as possible into understandable language, without greatly violating the requirements of the documents.

Technical requirements for grape planting material

How to choose timing and tools for pruning

Pruning of grapes is carried out in early spring before buds open or in autumn after the leaves have dropped. The autumn method is considered more correct and safe. The following criteria are given in its favor:

simplifying the shelter of shrubs for wintering;
fast and safe healing of wounds due to the fading of the flow of internal sap through the branches;
reducing the risk of mold as a result of rotting of immature growth when temperatures rise under the shelter.

When the plant has dropped its leaves, it is recommended to wait 2 weeks and start working. Early removal of plant parts disrupts the distribution and supply of nutrients. To prevent the branches from becoming frozen or injured from the effects of low temperatures, at least 14 days are left before the onset of frost.

To cut old compacted branches from 8 cm wide, use a hacksaw, and up to 7 cm, use a bow saw. A dense, overgrown crown additionally needs a lopper with long handles, making it easier to access the stems. Pruning of 2-year-old grapes is carried out using pruning shears that can handle a thickness of 1-2 cm.

To avoid injury during work, gloves are worn. Instruments are treated with a disinfectant or alcohol-containing product. Smooth cuts with minimal damage to the plant are obtained when using sharpened blades.

What determines the method of grape formation?

Up to 3-5 years, pruning of grapevines is aimed at forming the correct direction of growth, as well as the number of branches of the plant. Each sleeve is a separate branch coming from the head of the bush; fruit links that bear fruit subsequently grow on them. If the growth of a bush is left to its own devices, it will stretch upward or spread over nearby supports, which will complicate harvesting and reduce fertility rates.

The number of sleeves and placement option depends on:

frost resistance of the variety;
temperature regime of the germination area;
aesthetic tastes of the gardener and free space on the territory.

The choice of whether grapes are covered for the winter or not is based on the first two factors. A correctly formed shrub fits easier and faster under an insulating cover, in contrast to where the branches grow randomly.

Grapes are a heat-loving crop that reacts negatively to frost and temperature changes. Even frost-resistant varieties (Lydia, Isabella, Jupiter, Venus and others) are capable of losing part of the eyes during a harsh winter, from which pagons are then produced.

In addition to the varietal classification, the choice of the need for shelter is influenced by the climatic features of the area where the crop is grown. A drop in temperature in winter of at least 15-16 degrees makes it possible not to cover the vines; frost-resistant varieties can withstand temperatures down to minus 20. If there are frequent weather changes, when there is a high risk of ice crust formation (sharp frosts after high humidity), the need for shelter increases.

What is better – grafted seedlings or self-rooted ones?

This is a philosophical question. Each of these two types of seedlings has its own advantages and disadvantages. In places where the soil is contaminated with phylloxera, rooted seedlings grow poorly, are suppressed and often die soon. Therefore, it is advisable to plant grafted seedlings there. If the soil is not contaminated, then it is quite possible to grow your own rooted seedlings. Their main advantage is that if, for some reason, the aboveground part of a rooted bush dies, then shoots of the same variety will grow from the root (underground rootstock). And if the grafted bush suffers, then if the above-ground part freezes, the rootstock will grow from the root. Which, in principle, is also not bad, since the rootstock can always be re-grafted.

How are grapes formed?

Formative pruning in the fall of two-year-old, three-year-old and until they reach 4-5 years of age is carried out in several ways:

fan (with a difference in length, number of sleeves coming from the base, a variety - half-fan for small areas);
cordon (one- or two-sided placement of shortened sleeves on elongated vine-shoulders);
sleeveless (fruit branches extend from the head of the bush and two-year-old wood, provides for annual autumn cutting of vines that bear fruit throughout the season);
standard (with the formation of a perennial high central trunk with sleeves extending from the top);
arched (suitable for covering gazebos, walkways, canopies).

The first three methods are ideal for covering grapes and for use even by beginners in gardening. Their choice depends on the amount of free space on the site and the distance between individual bushes. The standard and arched version is more often used for uncovered frost-resistant varieties.

Fan method

The fan-based technique allows you to release up to 6 sleeves from the head of a separate bush. It is suitable for beginners and experienced gardeners due to its ease of formation, covering and pruning, compactness, and the ability to obtain the optimal number of branches.

The basic fan method is to place a one- or two-sided fan on a standard-free support. A 4-armed fan is considered easy to maintain, in which the inner arms are directed inward towards each other, and the outer arms are directed to the sides. Gardeners use the technique of planting a new seedling in a soil depression of up to 20 cm, followed by falling asleep in the fall of the second year and sending out branches at an angle of 45 degrees.

In the first year, two branches with 2-3 buds are left on each; the next season, 4 ripened branches grow, which in the future become sleeves of grapes. In the autumn of the second year, each branch is pruned into a short replacement branch and a long fruiting branch. In northern regions with lower growth rates and less sun, the practice is to begin the formation of a bush from one branch in the first year, from which 4 branches-sleeves are produced.

For young plants, at the initial stages of the formation of the skeletal part, the fruiting branch is cut into 4-6 buds. After 5-6 years, the bush enlarges to 12 buds on each shoot.

Methodology according to Guyot and Tokarev

When we are talking about 1-2 sleeves, the Guyot formation scheme is chosen. Placement according to the option from the French winegrower is carried out as follows:

in the first year in the fall, the shoot coming from the soil is cut down to two buds;
pruning of 2 summer grapes in the fall is carried out for the first pagon with 2-3 eyes (replacement branch), the second - with 6 eyes (fruitful vine);
pruning 3-year-old grapes involves complete cutting out of the fruiting branch with the further formation of a new branch and fruitful vine from the previous replacement shoot.

For small areas where it is not possible to form a wide fan, a small Tokarev fan is used. By the autumn of the third year, there are two sleeves at an angle of 45 degrees. From each bush, fruit branches are produced, from 5 eyes each.

Cordon and sleeveless uniform

To obtain a horizontal cordon, the first season is devoted to growing the longest possible tree arm, which serves as the basis of the arms. A two-year-old plant after pruning consists of a selected number of branch shoots from each arm (branches are launched on one side at a distance of 30 cm from each other). By the third year, the growth of fruit links begins.

Watering grapes

If there is enough rain, it is recommended to water the grapes 2-3 times per season. But, as practice shows, this is not enough. In the first 2 years, it is important to regularly water the seedlings so that the root system and vines develop normally. In addition, in dry summers, lack of moisture will negatively affect the yield of the vine.

It is not recommended to water grapes during flowering and 2 weeks before harvesting. But from the moment the berries set and until they reach their maximum size, the soil should not be allowed to dry out. Plants need to be watered at least 2 times a month. In this case, the soil must be moistened to a depth of at least 40 cm. If watering is shallow, the bush will form superficial roots, which will suffer from the heat in the summer and freeze in the winter.

You can reduce watering of grapes by mulching with straw (the layer should be about 10 cm)

What is it produced for?

Pruning grapes is the key to normal plant development and growth regulation; it is pruning that forms a full-fledged harvest.

There are 3 stages of life of a grape bush:

The first 4-5 years after planting, the grapes do not bear fruit; this period is considered the most important for the establishment of fruit vines and the formation of a proper bush. Trimming solves this problem.
The fruiting period lasts 20-25 years depending on the variety. During this period, pruning is done to maintain shape, force new vines, and eliminate diseased, old and damaged shoots.
After the active phase, a period of plant extinction begins. At this time, pruning is done to rejuvenate the vine and prolong fruiting.

Necessity of pruning:

Ensuring proper air exchange;
Improved sun exposure and heat penetration;
Increasing the size of berries and enlarging the bunch;
Making it easier to care for the bush;
Elimination of old and fattening shoots;
Improvement and rejuvenation of the bush;
Formation of new fruit shoots;
Increased productivity;
Increasing the frost resistance of the plant.

In nature, there is a “biological trick” for grapes - to break through to light and warmth. In the struggle for sunlight, the shoots stretch out, become long and try to conquer as much territory as possible.

It is up that all nutrients are sent, while the lower part of the bush does not receive enough of them. This phenomenon is called vertical polarity.

But the plant only has enough strength to form clusters for part of the shoots. Unlike fruit trees, it cannot shed excess ovaries on its own and will “pull” the bunches to the best of its ability.

If you don’t moderate the “ardor of the bush” with a pruner in your hand, it will become overgrown with dozens of long vines with a small number of fruiting clusters. The harvest will be bad.

Our task is to grow crops on all branches, including the lower tiers, and regulate the flow of nutrients.

By pruning, we disrupt the natural balance, change the polarity, and to restore the bush begins to lay down more powerful shoots and large clusters on all branches, otherwise the plant’s instinct to preserve the species is triggered.

This is why grapes are pruned.

What types of grape seedlings are there?

Grape seedlings are lignified and vegetative.

A lignified annual seedling is a seedling obtained by planting cuttings into a sapling in the spring and dug out from the sapling in the fall. A lignified seedling usually has an open root system (ORS). A lignified two-year-old seedling is a seedling planted as a cutting into a sapling in the spring of this year, and dug out from the sapling in the fall of next year. Or, as an option, seedlings that are not sold this season are cut short (growth by 1-2 buds, roots by 1-2 mm) and planted as cuttings. A vegetating seedling is a seedling that is in the period of its active life (vegetation). It has green leaves, green shoots and a necessarily closed root system (CRS). The purpose of a vegetative seedling is to plant it in a permanent place or in a school for growing.

In the photo: vegetating grape seedling, photo by S.I. Krasokhina.

Depending on the method of production, annual/biennial and vegetative seedlings are either rooted or grafted.

Own-rooted seedlings are seedlings grown from cuttings of the same variety. That is, they took a cutting from a bush, rooted it in a tree or a pot and got a rooted seedling (it has both its own roots and growth). Self-rooted seedlings are grown from long and shortened cuttings. Grafted seedlings are seedlings consisting of two parts: a scion and a rootstock. Their top is a varietal (scion), and the roots belong to a rootstock (stock). Phylloxera-resistant American species (Riparia, Rupestris, Berlandieri, etc.) are used as a rootstock in the production of grafted grape seedlings.

In the photo: grafted grape seedlings, photo by S.I. Krasokhina.

When to prune?

Autumn pruning is carried out only when the bush has “shed” all its leaves, which means that it has entered a dormant period. Bushes older than 4 years are pruned in both spring and autumn.

In different regions, pruning times are different and depend on climatic conditions:

Moscow and Moscow region: average daily temperature -5°C;
Ural: 3rd decade of October, beginning of November, before frost;
Krasnodar Territory, Rostov Region: September-October after leaf fall;

According to the lunar calendar, the best time for pruning is on the waning moon, except for bushes that are more than 3 years old (for them - the full moon).

When is it better to replant grapes to a new place, taking into account the climate?

Like pruning a grapevine, replanting a bush is best done during periods of comparative dormancy of the plant: early spring or late autumn. The specific timing depends on the climate of the growing region and prevailing weather conditions. Spring replanting is preferable for residents of areas with cold climates - during the summer period the plant has time to take root and prepare for winter. In regions with dry summers, it is better to move grapes in the fall, since a fragile bush can die from drought and heat.

In some cases, replanting can be done in the summer, but the success of the operation will be higher if the bush is moved with a clod of earth. Additionally, the plant will need to be protected from scorching sun rays.

Timing and features of spring movement

In the spring, grapes are transplanted to a new location before the sap flows and the buds begin to swell. In different regions this moment occurs at different times, so it is better to focus on the soil temperature. The optimal period is when the roots of the grapes awaken and their growth begins. This happens when the earth warms up to an average of +80C.

It is preferable to carry out a spring transplant:

in the south - at the end of March;
in the middle zone - in early to mid-April;
in the northern regions - at the end of April - beginning of May.

In spring, it is recommended to transplant the bush before the buds swell

To activate the awakening of the roots, in the spring before planting, water the planting hole with hot water . After planting, the above-ground part of the plant is covered with earth. This allows you to slow down the growth of shoots and leaves and gives time for the restoration of the root system.

In 2006, I transplanted the entire vineyard to a new location, which is more than 100 bushes.
Two winegrowers helped me. In April, before the eyes swelled, in one day they dug up the bushes from the old vineyard and planted them in a new place. The age of the bushes was from 2 to 5 years. The attack amounted to 3 bushes. The only pity is that I had to remove all the sleeves to fit better. I am still restoring the above-ground part. Tamara Yashchenko https://www.vinograd.alt.ru/forum/index.php?showtopic=221

Autumn transplantation: timing and specifics

Grapes are transplanted in the fall one and a half to two weeks after the plant sheds its leaves . At this time, the upper part of the bush comes to a state of rest. But the root system, located in the still warm soil, is quite active. Thanks to this, the plant will have time to take root in a new place before the onset of frost. A favorable period for moving a bush is:

in the south - the first ten days of November;
in the middle zone - mid-late October;
in the northern regions - early to mid-October.

However, when replanting in autumn, there is always a risk of the bush dying from too early frosts. Therefore, when choosing a specific date, gardeners should take into account weather forecasts and carry out the procedure no later than two weeks before the expected drop in temperatures.

Another advantage of autumn planting is frequent precipitation, which relieves the winegrower from the need to frequently water the transplanted bush.

Regardless of the climate and variety, grapes transplanted to a new location in the autumn require mandatory shelter for the winter.

Basic rules for pruning in autumn

Pruning is done in the middle of the internode so that the upper bud faces upward.
For pruning, use a well-sharpened oval-shaped pruner to avoid torn, frayed cuts.
The pruner is positioned with the tool stop on the side of the part of the vine being removed, the tip of the blade on the side of the part being left, perpendicular to the shoot.
The secateurs are held with one hand, the other deflects the vine to the side.
Branches more than 30 mm thick are sawed off with a special file.
All cuts are made on one side towards the inside of the plant.
Remove the vine with one movement of the pruning shears.
A sunny day is best for pruning.

Preliminary activities

Before starting pruning, it is necessary to carry out a number of preliminary measures:

First of all, an audit of the bushes is carried out to identify diseased shoots, which are cut out first;
Remove green growth from each shoot;
If foliage remains, it is also removed;
Remove all remaining grapes.

When all the preliminary work is completed, you can remove the vines from the wire one by one and begin the main procedure - formative pruning.

How to prune grapes in autumn - step-by-step instructions

Pruning grapes in the fall involves solving two problems: annual formation of the bush and preparing the plant for winter.

The first step is to remove unnecessary parts of the plant:

Removing fruit shoots after harvesting;
Cutting out all tops and vines that have less than 7-10 eyes;
Side shoots are shortened to 3 leaves;
On perennial branches, young shoots that have grown to the first wire (50 cm from the ground) are cut off;
Embossing shoots at level 2 wires by 10%.

The second step is the formation of new fruiting links:

Every autumn, a fruit link should be formed on each branch: a replacement knot and several fruit shoots.
The replacement knot should always be located below the fruit shoot and have 3 eyes. If after winter all 3 eyes are “working”, then the middle one is broken out. The length of the fruit shoot is determined by the number of buds on it and depends on the diameter of the shoot (5 mm - 5 buds, 6 mm - 5-6 buds, 7mm - 7-8 buds, 10 mm - 11-13 buds, 12 mm - 13-15 buds ). The first 2 ocelli from the base may be sterile.
From 2 strong shoots at level 2, wires form a fruiting link. Repeat the procedure throughout the bush.

Landing in the ground

The grape bush will develop well if you prepare a planting hole for it in a timely and correct manner. To do this, at the site of the future vineyard, you need to dig a hole 0.6-0.8 m deep. Lay a layer of fertile soil at the bottom. There you also need to add 15-20 kg of humus, 1.7 kg of wood ash and 0.3 kg of complex fertilizer (nitrophoska, ammophos, garden mixture, etc.). Mix everything thoroughly with a hoe and pour water.

Planting grapes in the ground

Caring for grapes in spring in Kuban

After the moisture has been absorbed, it is necessary to lay the middle layer of soil. And the most infertile on top is the bottom.

When planting, young shoots are removed along with a lump of earth and placed in a planting hole so that the roots are 33-37 cm below the soil level, and the lower green shoot is 9-12 cm above. Then the plant is covered with soil 4-6 cm below the development zone and thoroughly compacted with hands. Water with water (15-20 l). After absorption, the hole is filled with loose soil.

Additional Information! The top layer of soil should not be compacted. The soil should be loose to allow air to penetrate to the roots.

To prevent crust formation and reduce evaporation, it is better to use mulching. Fresh hay is good for this.

The optimal distance between grape bushes is 1.3-1.7 m. The formation of the vine will proceed correctly if the trellis is placed in time. This support will make it easier to care for grape seedlings in the first and subsequent years.

Pruning by year

Scheme for beginners:

The pruning method is chosen in the first year and maintained throughout the life of the plant. The best and most commonly used formation of a grape bush is a fan formation. In the south, when industrially growing vineyards, the standard forming method is used.

First year

In autumn, shoots are trimmed, leaving 2-3 eyes from ground level. Cover for the winter.

Second year

In the second autumn, a replacement knot is laid, the shoot is pinched to 3-4 buds, the second - like a fruit shoot with 6 eyes. By year 2, 4 shoots should be formed. Cover for the winter

Third year

The third autumn is the time of formation of the sleeves; their diameter should be 7-8 mm. The vine is further shaped so that the inner sleeves are shorter than the outer ones.

Fourth year

In autumn, the upper fruit shoot is cut to 7-8 buds, and the lower shoot, which is a replacement knot, to 2-3 buds. After pruning, a bush remains with four arms and four fruiting links. For all subsequent years, the fourth year procedure must be repeated.

Pruning grapes in autumn according to the Guyot scheme (covering form)

The fruiting link, the substitution knot plus the arrow, is the main element of the Guyot scheme. It is called a brick, with which you can create different shapes, because grape bushes are grown in one, two, three, four sleeves. Their quantity depends on the variety and climatic conditions.

After fruiting, the vine is pruned into a fruit link: at the top there is a replacement knot, at the bottom there is a fruit arrow

When buying seedlings, try to learn more about the variety. Each has its own shaping characteristics. For example, Early Violet is grown in 4 sleeves, leaving up to 7 buds on each vine, and Jubilee of Novocherkassk is grown in 2 sleeves with 8–10 buds on them. The total number of buds left on fruit shoots usually does not exceed 20–30; in the northern regions or on young and weak-growing bushes there should be fewer of them, in the southern regions on powerful varieties there should be more. If they are formed into 2 sleeves, then up to 10–15 buds are left on each arrow, and 5–7 buds are left in 4 sleeves.

The Guyot system can be applied to any variety with a different number of branches. The main thing is to understand the principle of creating and placing fruit links. Therefore, we will take as a basis the simplest formation of grapes in 1–2 sleeves with one fruiting link on each.

First year after planting

The Guyot covering form involves the formation of grapes without a trunk, so that it is possible to bend the vines and cover them with earth, straw, reeds and other materials for the winter. Therefore, when planting, bury seedlings until the first shoot, that is, the entire trunk should be underground, and the vines should be located directly above it. It’s even better to plant the cuttings at an angle, with a slope in the direction where you plan to lay the vines in the fall.

To create a standardless form, the seedling is buried so that the nearest branch is located almost at the ground

In the first year after planting, one long shoot will grow by autumn. To create a fruit link from it, you only need 2 buds. This means that you need to count two buds from the base and cut off the rest of the long part, but this can be done in the spring. In autumn, prune generously - above 3-4 buds. After a safe winter, leave only the top two, remove the rest. In all subsequent years, do not forget to do the final kidney rationing every spring.

On the left is pruning a bush with one shoot, on the right - with two

If you bought a seedling with two shoots, then grow both and cut them symmetrically. In the future you will have a bush with two sleeves. Another option: shape your seedling like a two-year-old bush. Fruiting will begin a year earlier.

Formation of a two-year bush

Two shoots will grow from the two remaining buds over the summer. In the fall, remembering the advice of experienced ones, the top one needs to be cut off like a fruit shoot, and the bottom one, which is closer to the base of the bush, like a replacement knot. A replacement knot is always cut into 2 buds, in the fall - with a reserve. The fruit shoot on 2-3 year old bushes is usually shortened to 6 buds.

Formative pruning of a three-year-old bush

The most exciting time is coming; the first bunches of grapes should appear on your seedlings. In the spring of the third year, tie the fruit shoot (vine) horizontally. Fruitful shoots will begin to grow from the buds; tie them up and direct them vertically upward along the trellis. Two shoots will also grow on the replacement branch, but they will be sterile. In the fall, after the leaves fall, take up the pruning shears again.

A grape bush for the 3rd year, barren shoots are shown with strokes, but they will bear fruit the next year

In the third year, you are offered several options for further pruning:

Trim the entire fruit shoot to the replacement knot, retreating 2 cm from it. From the two shoots on the replacement knot, again form a fruit link, as on a two-year-old seedling. As a result, you will have the simplest one-armed form with one fruiting link.
Shorten, rather than cut off the whole, fruit shoot, leaving on it the two shoots closest to the base. A two-armed form is formed, that is, two shoots on the arrow and two on the replacement knot. Trim them symmetrically, as on a two-year-old seedling: those closest to the base - for replacement knots, those further away - for the fruit shoot.
Every year the bush will offer you tops - shoots growing from the root or trunk. You can use them to create additional sleeves or to replace old, diseased, broken, frozen, etc. Cut them into 2 buds and grow a replacement knot and arrow.

Two sleeves are formed from a shortened fruit shoot and shoots grown from a replacement knot; each sleeve (shoulder) ends with a fruit link

The main thing in pruning grapes is your nerves of iron. Over the summer, a lush green mass will grow. All of it will have to be trimmed to the required number of buds. I know from myself how pathetic it is to chop up plants grown with love. I live in Siberia and for the first time last year I planted two grape cuttings. All summer I rejoiced at how the shoots grew wildly, clinging to the supports with their tendrils, entwining them. They reached 2 meters. And imagine, all this needs to be cut down to two buds from the ground! But I didn’t prune it in the fall. She laid everything that had grown on the ground, covered it with branches, covering material, and film. In the spring I’ll see how my grapes survived the winter and start shaping them. If you regret and leave more than recommended by the masters, then savages will grow with many shoots, the berries will be small and sour.

Video: formation in 4 sleeves with a substitution knot

Pruning in the fall of the fourth year and later

In the fourth year, you will already have a fruit-bearing bush growing, which needs to be pruned according to the recommendations for a particular variety. Two shoots should still grow on the replacement knots, and the fruit shoots, depending on the variety and number of branches, are left at the required length. Having understood how to create one fruiting link, you will be able to form bushes into 2-4 arms.

Sometimes three buds are left on a replacement knot and three shoots are grown: one - next year's replacement knot and two fruitful arrows. This link is called reinforced. However, the number of buds on each of the two arrows should be less than if you were growing a fruiting link with one arrow. Or they make fewer sleeves. After all, the number of shoots and bunches for one bush, regardless of its formation, should remain constant.

Fruit links: a - simple link with one arrow (2), b - reinforced link with two arrows (2); number 1 marks substitution knots

Over the years, each sleeve (shoulder) will lengthen and thicken. When it reaches the neighboring bushes and causes thickening, you need to cut off the entire sleeve into a stump, and grow a new one from a top to replace it. There may be other reasons for replacing the sleeve: it is outdated, has become unproductive, broken, severely damaged by disease, etc. By gradually replacing the old sleeves, you can completely rejuvenate the bush.

Video: what to do if you get a plot with old neglected grapes

Winegrowers say that the owners of four-year-old bushes are no longer beginners, but professionals. The basics have been studied, you will already see in practice how the vine grows, where the clusters are formed, in which part of the sleeve the most productive shoots are, etc. In skillful hands, grapes bear the first fruits in the second year. Of course, this should be facilitated by weather conditions and characteristics of the variety.

A more complex shape: 2 sleeves and 4 fruit links, created in two years

Pruning for rejuvenation

If the yield of the bush has decreased significantly, rejuvenation of the vine is required. It can be carried out using two methods: renewal of the sleeves and complete rejuvenation of the bush.

The renewal of the sleeves is carried out as follows: an incision is made closer to the beginning of the sleeve and if the vine tissue is alive, then the bush can still be saved. To do this, all dried shoots are cut off, and the sleeve itself is cut to 2-3 buds from the base. Such knots are called restoration hemp.

Complete rejuvenation of the bush is a more complex process. The entire above-ground part is cut off and the soil around the trunk is removed to a depth of 20 cm. Several cuts are made on the underground part of the trunk.

The cut is cleaned and covered with damp soil. This is done in the spring, and in the summer young shoots appear, from which two strong shoots are left. In autumn they are pruned with 2-3 eyes. Harvest is possible in 2 years. If disease or pest damage is detected on the trunk, the bush is destroyed.

Rejuvenation of the bush is also possible by layering from the mother bush. To do this, dig a mature vine or sleeve into a trench 30-40 cm deep, after removing all the buds. There should be one vine with 2 buds left on the surface.

After winter, new shoots will grow closer to summer. When the cuttings become an independent bush, the old mother bush can be removed.

Grape

Instructions and diagram for planting a two-year-old seedling with ZKS

Planting a two-year-old vegetative seedling in the ground.

You can start planting when the night temperature exceeds “biological 0”, which is +10 C, in the middle zone from late April to early June, i.e.
all of May. Until then, you can store it on the windowsill, watering it once every 5 days. 20 ml of warm water. A two-year-old seedling has established roots and will not die, even if the leaves fall under a short-term frost and fall off. You just need to avoid damaging the roots or destroying the lump of earth; to do this, plant directly in the container, cutting off only the bottom, first lower the container into a bucket of water for 5 seconds so that the earth gets wet and does not crumble. Planting is done in a pit so that all the black branches are covered with soil within 2-3 months and turn into roots. Only shoots of this year should stick out from the ground; it is necessary to level the pit to the level of the horizon after the green shoots have matured (hardened, become straw-colored). The container will absolutely not interfere with the dew of the roots, the diameter of the root will reach the container only after 50 years... A hole 70-80 cm deep is dug, drainage in the form of crushed stone, or broken bricks, or pieces of dry plaster is poured onto the bottom with a layer of 20 cm, then we lay a layer of dry leaves, grass, straw, or thin twigs. Next, the hole is filled with earth mixed with ash (it is advisable to use the ash in the form of coals), then we make a cone in the soil, in the center of which we create a hole into which we insert a container with a seedling with a pre-cut bottom. A pipe for watering and fertilizing is installed only for table grape varieties as a professional planting; for amateur planting it may not be installed.

Formation of grapes is carried out in the fall, pruning the grapes after the first light frost. After which, the seedlings must be carefully bent to the ground and covered with suitable material in the form of dry leaves, Christmas tree paws, pine waste, etc., having previously treated the vines with lime. Afterwards, it is advisable to cover the area from rain with covering material, a piece of slate, boards, etc. During a prolonged thaw, it should be opened for ventilation, treated with lime and covered again. Fully revealed on April 15-20.

Source of the article: https://vinograd.yudin.org/2019/04/blog-post.html

Caring for grapes after autumn pruning

One of the most important activities after autumn pruning and before sheltering for the winter is its treatment against infections and pests. To do this, it is treated with a 5-7% solution of copper sulfate. The mixture should have a temperature of up to + 50 degrees.

When the vine dries, you can begin to cover the bush. It is possible to use the drugs Fundazol, Polychom.

Pruning grapes is an essential element in the process of growing vines. Incorrect pruning or careless attitude to it leads to crop loss.

The commandments of the winegrower:

The tour of the vineyard is carried out early in the morning at sunrise. Where the vinedresser's eyes are thicker, the more productive the vine;
The grapes are blooming - no work or walking around the vineyard;
When planted closely, the vine offends the vine;
Harvesting can only be done in dry weather. Do not leave the harvested crop in the rain and sun;
Many varieties in one area are disastrous;
If you don’t know what to do with a bush, it’s better not to do it, seek advice from an experienced one;
Don’t wait for illnesses, carry out prevention, but grapes don’t like chemicals;
Do not apply fertilizer in reserve, follow the principle of small doses.

What is the difference between a sapling and a seedling?

A seedling is a plant that is grown from a grape seed. With this method of propagation, grapes do not inherit the characteristics of the original variety. Attention! In viticulture, seedlings are used only in selection for the development of new varieties. If you bought grape seeds somewhere (usually Aliexpress is guilty of this) and fell for the pictures and the cheapness of the seeds, know that they will never grow into the variety in the picture. Of these, no one knows or can even guess what exactly they will grow up to be, but you are unlikely to like the result.

In the photo: grape seedlings grown from hybrid seeds for scientific purposes in the grape breeding laboratory of the All-Russian Research Institute of Viticulture and Winemaking named after. ME AND. Potapenko. Photo by S.I. Krasokhina

Errors

Many novice winegrowers make many mistakes when pruning and often cannot determine which types of grape shoots to trim and which to leave.

The most common mistakes that inexperienced gardeners make:

Trimming the tops. Beginning winegrowers regret “trimming” the large branches of the bush and only lightly prune the upper shoots. As a result, the bush thickens, the vine becomes thinner due to lack of light and nutrients, the berries become smaller, and yields decrease. That's right: according to pruning rules, it is necessary to remove up to 70-90% of the annual growth.
Trimming the wrong shoots. Some believe that all young shoots should be cut out and the old vine should not be touched. Others, on the contrary, leave the young shoots and cut out the mature ones. In fact, both of them are wrong. That's right: every year, cut out fruit-bearing shoots and thin shoots that thicken the bush. Leave a trunk with several sleeves and new shoots from the current year, which will produce a harvest next year.
Stump on shoots. Stumps are either cut without calculating the length, or they are not cut at all Correctly: on mature shoots, leave a stump of no more than 1 cm; on annual shoots, do not leave a stump; the cut site may rot.
Stepsons. They do not pay due attention to the stepsons; they do not break them out or are cut off at the root. That's right: be sure to break off the stepsons, leaving 2 leaves, pinching off the top.

Author: Maria Sukhorukikh
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Why prune a young vine?

If you do not resort to such an event as pruning the grapes and allow them to grow freely, then the stems of the crop will grow in length, like vines. All shoots of the plant will be directed to a warmer and brighter place. With the passage of time and the lengthening of the plant's arms, there is a significant increase in the distance between the root system and its growing part. In this condition, the crop bears fruit poorly and only its green mass grows, new buds and shoots are formed.

All the nutrients that come from the root system into the plant go to the formation of foliage and new shoots, not berries. If the spring pruning of a young bush is incorrect or insufficient, every year the berries begin to become smaller or stop forming altogether.

Pruning is carried out in order to maintain a balance between the volume of the root system and the green part of the plant. The purpose of such an event is to form the grapes in such a way that the nutrients entering the root system provide the entire plant in accordance with its normal development cycle, including fruiting.

Important! By pruning the crop, forming its correct shape, obtaining the largest possible amount of harvest.