How to prune grapes in spring: patterns for beginners, timing

Pruning grapes is one of the main agrotechnical activities that must be carried out in the spring.
Pruning of the vine is carried out according to the schemes and within the established time limits. Dear readers!
For you, we have created communities on social networks in which useful articles and interesting ideas are published several times a day! Subscribe and receive useful content in a convenient format! We will tell you in this article how a beginner can choose the appropriate method and the right time for the procedure.

Why do grapes need spring pruning?

Ideally, grapes need two prunings: in autumn and spring.

Autumn pruning is sanitary. The shoots are shortened to cover the grapes for the winter. In spring, pruning has slightly different goals. Here the formation of bushes and vines comes to the fore.

It's no secret that grapes are a fast-growing crop. In just one season, the vine can significantly increase in size. Therefore, it is necessary to prune grapes regularly.

It is important for the beginning gardener to know pruning patterns to guide grape growth and distribute nutrients throughout the plant.

REFERENCE. Pruning in the spring must be carried out in regions with cold, long winters. But the autumn procedure is abandoned so that the vine does not die.

How many shoots should I leave for fruiting?

For an adult bush, it is considered normal to leave 8-12 shoots per 1 linear meter of vine.

fruiting.

That is, if you have a single-plane trellis and the bushes are planted 2 meters apart, then you should leave 16-24 shoots per bush.

On young, growing bushes ( up to 5 years of age

) you must leave the following number of shoots:
let’s say in the 1st year
you planted a seedling with two shoots,
in the 2nd year
you should grow a bush with 2-3 times more shoots than in the previous year (4-6 shoots, it all depends on the power of the bush).
In the 3rd year,
again increase the number of shoots by 2-3 times, and so on until the 5th year.

At 5 years of age

the bush is considered mature and each subsequent year the same number of shoots remains, approximately 30-50 pieces (it all depends on the bush itself, maybe less if the distance between the bushes is smaller).

Another condition for forming a bush

- on the sleeves up to the first wire of the trellis (20 cm below the first wire of the trellis), the vines must be clean. All shoots grown in this place must be removed. The first shoot 20 cm below the wire will be a replacement branch for the next year.

Recommendation:

if last year your grape bush was overloaded, then this year leave the number of shoots less. This is done so that the bush can regain its strength.

When you remove all weak shoots, doubles and other shoots, count the remaining number of shoots; it should be no more than 30-50 per adult bush.

When to prune in spring, how to choose the right day?

For a beginner, it can be difficult to decide on the timing of pruning. Especially if the region of his residence has harsh winters.

Conventionally, grape pruning can be divided into two categories according to timing:

• Early;
• Late.

Early pruning occurs in the first half of spring, when the snow finally melts and the air temperature steadily warms up to +5 degrees.

It is most preferable to start pruning at this time, since the plant is still “sleeping”, and, therefore, the cuts will heal faster.

Late pruning is carried out by winegrowers of the northern regions, where winter leaves long and reluctantly. If there is a danger of return frosts, then do not rush with pruning, but allow new shoots to grow up to 5-6 cm.

IMPORTANT! For beginning winegrowers, we especially emphasize: pruning must be done before the buds swell.

Basic rules for pruning

Any actions to care for grape bushes must be carried out taking into account the basic requirements of the crop. In the case of spring pruning, it is important to take into account the following recommendations:

• the vine should “cry” as little as possible (there are usually no problems with this before the buds open);
• old vines (after three years of cultivation) are pruned in several stages, cutting out old branches every year: the trunk is cut to the replacement knot;
• you should not skip the planned “haircut” procedures, otherwise there is a possibility of thawing of individual parts of the bush and its damage by pathogenic microorganisms;
• branches can be cut only 2 cm above the eye, with a minimal slope away from it to the side (the juice flowing from the wound will not leave stains on it);
• It is better to start pruning the bush in spring from the top, gradually cutting off weak, improperly growing branches and last year’s stumps, and then trimming the sleeves extending from the periphery;
• the length of the cut part should correspond to the thickness of the vine: the thicker the shoot, the larger the piece can be cut from the branch;
• the cut is made along a node with a tendril or bunch;
• the diameter of the mechanical damage should be as small as possible, and the cut site should be as even as possible (this will help the wound heal faster);
• If possible, it is better to make cuts on the inside of the shoot, facing the middle of the bush;
• remove branches evenly so as not to reduce yield;
• All tools used for work must be well sharpened and disinfected, and upon completion of the work, the cut areas must also be treated with garden varnish.

Spring pruning of grapes should be done as carefully and measuredly as possible. You cannot thoughtlessly remove the first shoots you come across, otherwise there is every chance of not only reducing the yield of the plant, but also completely losing the grape bush.

Timing for pruning grapes depending on the region

The timing of pruning depends on the growing region. More precisely, on climatic features.

Let's consider at what time grapes begin to be sawed in different regions of our country.

South

In Crimea, the Caucasus and Kuban, grape pruning begins already in the second decade of March.

central Russia

In Central Russia, the timing of pruning grapes is adjusted so that the threat of return frosts passes.

This is usually mid-April, but in some years you can start sawing off excess shoots as early as early April.

Northwestern regions

In the North-West of the country, pruning begins closer to the 20th of April.

Formation of grapes in the second year

In the spring, after the threat of severe frosts has passed (early April), remove the shelter and tie the vine to the bottom wire of the trellis, with the tops in different directions.

The stems growing from the buds shoot vertically upward or with a slight inclination away from the center of the bush.

In autumn, after the leaves fall, the long sleeve is cut off leaving 2 shoots. The sleeves will become the same. Then cut off the vertical stems: those that are closer to the center and lower along the main stem, cut off leaving 2 buds. This will be a substitution knot.

Vertical stems located further should be trimmed, leaving 4 buds - these will be fruit arrows. We remove the vine and cover it for the winter.

Pruning grapes in the spring in 2022 according to the lunar calendar

Beginning gardeners often forget that in agricultural activities they must be guided by the rules of the lunar calendar. In it you can find hints when the deadline for a particular procedure comes. Including trims.

It is best to prune grapes during the waning moon. This is the most appropriate time. Juices move from the “tops” to the roots, so the damage will be minimally painful.

The period of the waxing moon is considered neutral in this regard. But the full moon and new moon are definitely a bad time to saw grapes.

In the spring of 2022, beginning gardeners are recommended to prune grapes at the following times:

• In March - from 1 to 12 and from 29 to 31.
• In April - from 1 to 11 and from 28 to 30.
• In May - from 1 to 10 and from 27 to 31.

It is better for a novice gardener to prepare tools and study pruning schemes on such days:

• In March – 13 and 28.
• In April – 12 and 27.
• In May - 11 and 26.

What tools are needed?

A novice winegrower should take care of purchasing the necessary tools for pruning grapes in the spring.

The minimum tools include a pruner, a lopper and a bow saw. If the vine is young, then you can get by with a good pruning shears. In general, this is the number 1 tool in the pruning procedure.

When pruning large woody shoots, you will have to use garden pitch to cover the cuts.

IMPORTANT! All instruments must be sharpened and pre-disinfected.

What types and patterns of spring pruning are there?

Pruning grapes in spring can be done according to several schemes. All types are done at approximately the same time. It is advisable for a novice winegrower to at least have an idea of ​​all the main ways to form a grape bush.

How to fan pruning step by step instructions

According to this pattern, several fruit arms are formed (usually more than 3).

Cut the main vine down to 2 eyes. These will be 2 sleeves. The bottom one will become a replacement knot.

Several vines grow on them during the season. They need to be cut to half a meter and tied. In this case, the internal vines should be smaller than the external ones.

The next (fourth) season, these shortened shoots will begin to form their own vines. They are shortened in exactly the same way.

Sleeveless method of pruning grapes

In the first year we prune with 4 eyes. Over the course of the season, vines will grow from them, on which we will also leave 4 eyes. Then every year we leave the lower most powerful shoots, which will bear fruit.

An important point is that after harvesting they will need to be cut down. We carry out pruning according to the same scheme in all subsequent years.

How to trim grapes in spring in one sleeve?

With this scheme, we choose the strongest shoot. It is cut off by one eye, the rest are removed. Then the vine develops. Next season we cut it by 2 eyes so that there is 35 cm between future shoots.

We repeat the procedure for several years. The result is one sleeve on which several fruiting shoots are located.

Multi-arm method of spring grape pruning

This pattern is a type of fan pruning. Only a few main fruit-bearing branches remain.

In the first year of cultivation, pruning is of a sanitary nature. There should be no more than 3 of the strongest vines left.

After wintering, the vines are shortened to 3 eyes; they will produce vines, which must be tied up during the development process in the summer.

Let's say you have 2 already three-year-old sleeves. They are again shortened to 3 buds.

In the 4th year of cultivation, the main fruit-bearing vines are replaced. The top vines are cut off, the rest are shortened so that new arrows are formed.

IMPORTANT! Don't forget about garter shoots!

How to prune grapes using the Guyot method

Guyot's scheme is quite simple, so it is often used by beginners. Carry out as soon as possible after suitable weather conditions have been established.

In the first year, the vine is cut to 2-3 eyes. These will be annual shoots. Next spring we shorten one vine to 2 eyes, and the second to 8.

The first will become a replacement knot, and the second will become the main fruit-bearing shoot.

In the third spring, we cut off the fruit-bearing vine, and on the remaining branch we again form two future sleeves, as in the first year.

What is a cordon scheme

This is a rather unusual scheme.

In the first year, we leave the lower shoot, which we direct in one direction (the length of the vine must be at least 2 m).

We cut everything down to the first bud. During the season, a sleeve will appear on which you need to leave 6-8 eye buds. They will give vines, on which you will need to leave 1 eye.

Standard cuttings

In Russia, due to the climate, it is suitable only for the southern regions, where the vine does not need to be covered for the winter.

It is carried out over several years. The scheme is like this:

• In the first year, the top of the bush and all the growth are cut off. Two eyes remain.
• Of the two shoots, the main and the “spare” are determined. On the main one (it should be more powerful), the top of the head is cut off, leaving 3 eyes.
• In the third year of cultivation, only 2 upper shoots are left on the trunk, shortened so that 2 eyes remain. If necessary, tie it up.
• Finally, the vines that have finished bearing fruit are removed, and new fruit shoots begin to form instead. The main shoot is sawed down to 15 eyes (this is the maximum, less is better), the spare shoot - up to 2.

Instructions for pruning grapes

Despite the fact that the pruning process may seem like a fairly simple procedure, it is necessary to understand that any mechanical intervention causes some harm to the plant. An incorrect approach to this work can not only negatively affect the harvest, but also destroy the plant.

People have been growing grapes for 5 thousand years. During this time, gardeners have developed a number of rules, the implementation of which helps to reduce plant injuries during pruning and bush formation, which has a positive effect on productivity.

Rules common to all seasons

There are several basic rules that should be followed regardless of pruning method, season or grape variety. These include:

• Regardless of what tool will be used for processing (knife, pruning shears or hacksaw), it is important that it is sharp - this will minimize damage to the plant. Moreover, if this tool was used for pruning other garden crops, then, in order to avoid the spread of diseases, it is recommended to disinfect it in an alcohol solution or warm it well over a fire;
• make a cut at a right or slight oblique angle - this will reduce the area of ​​the “wound” and speed up healing;
• fungal or damaged vines must be removed regardless of the pruning scheme;
• the distance of the cut from the kidney should be at least 2 cm;
• knot replacement is done below the fruiting vine.

These rules must be followed when performing work at any time of the year. However, it should be understood that each season has its own nuances and requirements. We will look further at how to properly prune grapes in spring, summer and autumn.

in spring

Spring treatment is recommended to be carried out at an ambient temperature of +3 to +5°C and with confidence that the frost period is already behind. If you miss the moment and start the procedure at a higher temperature, the sap flow that has begun will interfere with the healing of the cuts, which can negatively affect the harvest.

Pruning grapes depending on the age of the bush

As mentioned above, grapes require constant shaping. Therefore, both young and old bushes are pruned.

Let's consider the basic schemes for carrying out the procedure for plants of different ages.

How to prune young bushes in spring

Spring pruning is mainly intended for young bushes that are beginning to actively bear fruit and produce a harvest.

Young plants require formation. A filing scheme is selected and the number of main shoots is determined. The correctly chosen scheme and the procedure carried out determine what kind of harvest you will get in the fall.

Pruning old plants

Old plants bear fruit for a long time and abundantly. The main task is to support them. Therefore, the following scheme is used: sick and old vines are sawed off.

Rejuvenation is also periodically carried out, when powerful old shoots are removed and 2-4 young vines are left.

How to care for three-year-old grapes

In addition to the described nuances of pruning grape bushes in the third year of cultivation, other measures for caring for them remain the same. Plants are watered approximately 4–6 times per season, taking into account the level of natural precipitation. On average, at least 3 buckets of water are consumed per bush, although in particularly dry regions their number can reach up to five.

Fertilizing of grape bushes is carried out three times per season: before immediate flowering, 2 weeks after the first and just before the fruits ripen. Both organic (manure or compost) and ready-made mineral mixtures are excellent as nutrient fertilizers. The main requirement is the use of organic matter in early spring and autumn, and mineral fertilizers before flowering.

After harvesting, you can carry out preventive spraying of grapes against fungal diseases and popular pests. Typically, copper sulfate and Bordeaux mixture are used for these purposes, although the possibility of using broad-spectrum fungicidal and insecticidal preparations should not be ruled out.

Immediately after spring pruning, it is better not to disturb the grapes with additional intervention. Watering, fertilizing, soil care and preventive treatments of plants must be carried out at the strictly designated time.

Shaping and sanitary cutting of grapes is a very important aspect of caring for them. Correct implementation of the procedure will guarantee its successful fruiting and attractive appearance, but any violation of the described requirements may well lead to dire consequences. This is worth remembering for both beginners and experienced gardeners.

What to do with frozen vines

It is important for novice winegrowers to know that sometimes severe frost causes damage to the plant. In this case, the entire above-ground part of the crop may freeze.

The procedure begins with an inspection of the plant. The number of affected kidneys is determined. Based on this, a scheme is selected.

If there are no “living” buds left on the bush, then you need to cut down the entire above-ground part of the plant.

IMPORTANT! A living bud is green, a frozen one is brown or black.

If up to 4/5 of the buds have died, then the entire vines are cut down. If less than ¾ of the buds are frozen, then pruning is carried out selectively, removing the affected parts.

Removing excess shoots on the vine

Often the bush overwinters successfully and in the spring more eyes wake up. Therefore, it is necessary to remove excess shoots so as not to overload the grape bush with shoots.

Green shoots begin to break off when they reach a size of 5-10 cm

. They can be easily broken off by hand without the use of pruners.

First of all, it is necessary to remove weak, fruitless grape shoots, as well as doubles and tees

.

How to determine if a shoot is barren or bears fruit

– if a tendril, and not a bunch, first formed on the shoot, then such a shoot will be fruitless in the future. The first tendril on the shoot means that clusters are not formed on the shoot.

Doubles also break off

– two shoots grow from one eye, two buds have blossomed. In this case, leave the more powerful shoot and remove the weaker one.

Similarly, there may be a case of tees

– 3 shoots can grow from one eye. In this case, we leave the stronger shoot on the vine and remove the rest.

But there are exceptions when removing excess shoots

– if the bush has not overwintered well and the number of blossoming buds is not enough to form shoots, in such cases you can leave the twins for fruiting.

Weak shoots are also removed from the grapevine.

- that is, poorly developed in growth.

Sometimes it happens that in a small area of ​​the vine 3-4 strong shoots grow at once; it is necessary to thin out, removing the strong shoot in the middle.

How to carry out the procedure if the roots are frozen

When there is little snow in winter, or the bush is poorly covered in the fall, the roots of the plant freeze. In this case, pruning must be carried out as soon as possible, even if you did not plan it.

The fact is that the damaged root system can no longer perform its functions as before. This means that the load on it needs to be reduced. To save the bush, you will have to sacrifice some of the fruit-bearing vines. If frostbite is not severe, then cutting them all off makes no sense. Just prune into a few buds.

Caring for grape bushes after pruning in spring

Grapes starting to wake up after winter have a hard time with pruning. In order for the plant to survive such a stressful situation more easily, it needs to be properly cared for.

• When you make replacement shoots, do not distribute them throughout the bush, but try to place them on one side.
• Old shoots are sawed off without stumps. A maximum of 1 cm is left.
• It is advisable to treat large sections with garden varnish.
• Loosen the soil. Thanks to this, air will reach the roots in the shortest possible time, which will have a positive effect on their properties.
• Be sure to treat the plant for diseases and pests as soon as possible. Cuts are vulnerable spots of grapes into which pathogenic fungi, bacteria, and parasites can penetrate.
• Be sure to start fertilizing and watering on time. Regular nutrition is the key to crop health and high vine productivity.

ON A NOTE. Trimmed shoots can be used as cuttings for propagation.

When to prune grapes

The specific time for pruning grapes depends on the climatic characteristics of the region where they are grown. If we are talking about the northern regions of Russia with harsh and very frosty winters, it is advisable to plan the main pruning for the spring. As a last resort, you can remove excess growth in the fall, but no later than 20 days after the leaves fall. In any case, shoots can be pruned only when the plant is completely dormant: in the spring - before active sap flow begins (the sap emerging from the cut should not prevent the healing of wounds), in the fall - before immediate frosts. If the right moment was missed, instead of a full-fledged procedure, you will have to limit yourself to removing old dried shoots and plucking out unnecessary young ones. Unplanned formation of a bush is usually carried out using the blinding method - by plucking out extra eyes on the vine.

Benefits of pruning grapes in spring

Not all gardeners are unequivocally positive about pruning grapes in the spring. The main argument of opponents is the possibility of an early start of sap flow in the vine, which is why there is a possibility of seriously damaging the plant.

• However, if the procedure is started in a timely manner, it will only bring benefits, because autumn pruning has many advantages:
• increase in crop yield (often by 60–80% compared to the previous year);
• formation of the most correct plant shape;
• increasing the frost resistance of bushes by strengthening and thickening the main stems;
• improvement of photosynthesis in leaves, and therefore plant nutrition;
• simplification of care and harvesting (with proper and timely pruning, it will be convenient to approach it from any side of the bush);
• prevention of diseases and pests (a well-ventilated vine accumulates relatively less moisture, which means the likelihood of developing fungal diseases will be lower).

Did you know? To make one bottle of wine, on average, you need to prepare at least 600 grapes.

Common mistakes

It is easy for a novice gardener to make mistakes during the procedure:

• Incorrect trimming time selected. It works both ways: filing too early and filing too late. In any case, this is detrimental to the plant.
• Don't stick to a specific pattern. Each scheme has its pros and cons. Of course, it is difficult for a beginner to decide which one is right for him. Therefore, start with the simplest circuits.
• Careless cutting of shoots. The cuts must be smooth and neat. It's not just about aesthetics and beauty. Wounds can cause disease and death of the bush.
• The pruning is not complete. Sometimes a novice summer resident does not finish what he starts. It seems to cut off, but not all the growth, leaves stepsons, and does not remove old vines. All this leads to a decrease in yield and a deterioration in the taste of the berries. In addition, the plant’s immunity suffers.
• No care provided. After the “operation”, the grapes will need strength to recover and begin to develop. To do this, the bush needs to be fed and watered well.

Answers to frequently asked questions

Why do you need to prune grapes in spring?

The main goal is to form a bush. Removing excess vines will provide uniform access to light and air and improve the quality of the crop. The plant will also look more beautiful, which is especially important if grapes are part of a landscape design solution.

What are the benefits of spring pruning?

Pruning increases the vine's resistance to diseases and unfavorable environmental conditions (including resistance to frost), improves the taste of the berries and their quantity.

Which bushes need to be trimmed?

In the spring, young growth, early varieties, as well as the most “delicate” varieties of the crop, which require mandatory shelter for the winter, are sawed off.

Planting grapes in Siberia

Proper planting of grape bushes is one of the important factors influencing a good harvest.

Selecting a location

Choose a place that is sunny and protected from the wind. Grapes should not be planted in lowlands, where frosts, fogs and stagnant water are more common. On a personal plot, it is better to place grapes near a blind fence or wall of a house facing south or southeast.

In one place, grapes can grow and produce good yields for 15–20 years.

Video: choosing a place for grapes

Deadlines

The most favorable time for any planting in Siberia is spring. Autumn here is very short, snow can fall as early as September, and seedlings simply will not have time to take root during autumn planting. Plant grapes in May under cover (in a greenhouse, hotbed) or in open ground, when the threat of frost has passed. In some regions of Siberia there are snowfalls even in early June.

In Siberia, there is a high probability of frosts and snowfalls until June, so seedlings purchased in the spring must be kept on the windowsill until the weather warms up.

Pit preparation

During the growing season, grape shoots grow by 5–10 cm per day. Such active growth requires good nutrition. If grapes are planted in unprepared soil, then all the nutrients from the top fertile layer are quickly consumed. The bushes will develop and bear fruit poorly. Therefore, at least 2-3 weeks before planting the seedlings in a permanent place, planting holes are prepared for them and filled with fertilizers.

Preparation of planting holes:

1. Dig a trench 30 cm deep and 80 cm wide; towards the bottom it can narrow to 60 cm. The length depends on the number of seedlings. The distance between the bushes should be 2 m. If you plan to plant in 2 rows, then the row spacing is 2–3 m.
2. Place the top layer of soil (on the bayonet of the shovel) in one direction, and everything below in the other.
3. Under each seedling inside the trench, dig a planting hole 60 cm deep and wide, that is, the total depth at the planting sites should reach 90 cm from ground level.
4. Place a shovelful of ash and 200 g of superphosphate at the bottom of the planting holes. Lay down a layer of twigs and rough weed stems.
5. Fill the holes with a mixture of humus, top layer soil and river sand (1:1:0.5).
6. There is no need to fill the trench itself; reinforce its walls with boards. Thus, the grape bed will be recessed into the ground, that is, there should be 30 cm from the planting level to the ground level (trench depth).

The grapes are planted below the soil level on the site, the walls of the trench are reinforced with shields

For Siberia, with a planting depth of 20–40 cm, the heat received during the summer is used as fully as possible. The trench can be made wider, then it will be better illuminated by the sun. The planting pit is also often made larger. It is believed that a 1 m deep pit, filled with organic matter and mineral fertilizers, will provide the grape bush with nutrition for 10–15 years, that is, fertilizing will not be needed throughout the entire cultivation.

If you want to do without fertilizing and not dig a huge hole, sow the soil under the bushes and between the rows with green manure: alfalfa, mustard, clover, peas, lupine, wheat, oats. These plants contribute to the redistribution of nutrients between soil layers and the accumulation of humus. Grow green manure until flowering, then cut it and place it under the grapes as mulch.

Drainage system

There are recommendations to lay drainage made of stones and broken bricks at the bottom of the planting hole and install a pipe through which the grapes are watered. But there are also reviews from gardeners who did not see the difference between planting grapes in “smart” pits and in ordinary ones. When watering through a pipe, the roots are drawn towards it, rather than developing evenly in depth and breadth. Over the years, drainage becomes silted and the roots can rot.

The “smart” pit in Siberia does not justify the effort required for its construction

Many winegrowers agree that “smart” pits are needed only in the first 1–2 years after planting, and later they lose effectiveness as the roots extend beyond its boundaries. However, in the climatic conditions of Siberia, it is not advisable to make drainage systems, since young non-fruit-bearing bushes rarely need watering - 2-3 times per season.

There are few hot days in the region; the weather is often rainy. In addition, the evaporation of leaves from young grapes is minimal; they have not yet developed into a strong bush. The best option is to place branches at the bottom of the hole instead of stones, which will rot over time and turn into fertilizer, and after planting, cover the soil with a layer of straw, hay, grass cuttings or green manure.

Seedling preparation and planting

Grape seedlings in Siberia are rooted cuttings with a closed root system. They are sold in plastic cups. Many people buy them in early spring, while there is a choice and prices are low, so preparation for planting and planting itself consists of the following stages:

1. If you bought seedlings at the beginning of spring, then transplant them from cups into larger pots and keep them on a windowsill, glassed-in balcony or in a greenhouse until the end of frost. Use soil for replanting from your site, mixing it with humus (1:1).
2. On warm days (20⁰C and above), take the cuttings out into the open air for an hour at first, gradually increase exposure to sunlight until daylight, and be sure to put them in a warm place at night.
3. After June 5–7, you can start planting in open ground; the day before, water the seedlings well.
4. For each seedling, dig a hole the size of the pot in which the grapes grow in a previously prepared planting hole.
5. Take out the seedling along with a lump of earth and place it in the hole at an angle in the direction in which you will bend and lay the vine in the fall for shelter for the winter. Bury the seedling to the first green petioles.
6. Cover with soil removed when digging the hole, pour a bucket of water and mulch.

Video: how to properly plant grapes in Siberia