How to properly prune dwarf apple trees - pruning diagram

Dwarf apple trees are becoming more and more popular. Of course, they have a lot of positive properties. First of all, it is compact, but at the same time quite abundant harvest. You should not assume that pruning dwarf apple trees in autumn and spring is not required, because such a crop itself is small. The formation of a dwarf apple tree is an important part of agricultural technology, on which health and fruiting depend.

This is what a dwarf apple tree looks like.

How to form a dwarf apple tree

When pruning dwarf apple trees, there are several important features that need to be taken into account. This includes the growth of the tree, the desired shape of the crown, the timing of the manipulation, and the age of the apple tree.

Low crops, although they need pruning, require care and attention. If pruning is too severe, the processes of nutrition and metabolism will be disrupted, so it will negatively affect fruiting.

There is one scheme for all apple trees:

1. Dry and damaged branches are removed.
2. Weak and unfruitful.
3. Crowns growing inside.
4. Top shoots.
5. The lateral ones are cut off to give the crown the correct shape.

More can be determined only by knowing the height and age of the crop.

Pruning diagram for a dwarf apple tree.

If you need to rejuvenate a dwarf apple tree

European gardeners have developed their own system for pruning old ones, which helps restore even very neglected plants - this is a renewal system. The technique is complex only at first glance. The main thing is to take into account the main characteristics of the crop and focus on reducing the share of annual growth. The stepsons should be shortened by about one third, cut off the smaller half. On the weakest tree, only the top can be cut off. Space the fruits and twigs well along the length of the branch - this way the fruits will definitely not be crowded. Reduce the number of stepchildren to the maximum, not forgetting that their total number should correspond to the variety and growth rate of the apple tree. Ideally, a fruit tree is left with only one leading (central) branch - two leaders weaken the plant.

In early September, rejuvenation is usually not carried out.

Why is apple tree pruning necessary?

Before approaching the question of how to form a dwarf apple tree correctly, you need to understand why such a procedure is carried out at all:

1. A correctly formed crown looks more neat and attractive.
2. Harvesting is greatly simplified.
3. Removing old branches stimulates the appearance of new ones.
4. By regulating the number of branches, the fruits are evenly illuminated by the sun, therefore they ripen in a timely manner.
5. Good lighting and air circulation help keep shoots healthy.
6. Proper pruning will help the apple tree survive the cold.

As with the development of a tall plant, pruning a dwarf crop is an important condition for full development and fruiting.

Pruning young and adult apple trees

Apple trees are pruned annually. The first time the seedling is pruned in the nursery, leaving from 3 to 5 skeletal branches on the central trunk. The following spring, the apical shoots are shortened, forming lateral branches. Pruning is repeated every spring, but the technique varies depending on the age of the tree. Let's look at how to prune young and mature apple trees.

Annual seedling

A one-year-old seedling planted in the fall is pruned six months later - in the spring. If the seedling is planted in the spring, then pruning is carried out immediately after planting. Thus, already in the first year after planting the tree, its crown is formed. If the tree has the correct structure, it will not need any additional supports in the future - thanks to the balanced relationship between the location of the branches and the number of apples.

Please note that future harvests depend on how correctly the apple tree is pruned in the first spring. The most popular option is a sparse multi-tiered crown.

Step-by-step instructions for pruning an annual seedling:

• Cut the central trunk at a height of 0.8-1.0 m from the ground surface. Due to the shortening of the main conductor, the lateral branches, which will subsequently become skeletal, activate their growth.
• Remove all buds and branches (if any) in the trunk area - from the surface of the ground to the first tier of skeletal branches.
• If the seedling has already acquired branches, mark those from which the first tier will be formed. 3-5 branches are enough - they should be directed in different directions so that the tree is symmetrical and balanced. If there are no branches yet, add 5-8 buds for the first tier (take more than you need - in reserve).
• Remove any branches that form an angle less than 45 degrees with the trunk. If left, they will break off either during a storm or under the load of fruit.
• Cut branches that will be skeletal to 30-40 cm, shortening them by 3-5 buds.

When pruning excess branches, be sure to leave those that are located at a large angle. Such branches are distinguished by their strength and productivity.

When choosing the height of the first tier of skeletal branches, keep in mind that a trunk that is too low will make it difficult to care for the tree, and a trunk that is too high will be susceptible to sunburn.

The first spring pruning is an urgent necessity. Even with the most careful planting, the root system of a seedling is damaged. By pruning the branches, the gardener optimally distributes nutrients in the tree.

Two-year-old seedling

When pruning a two-year-old seedling, follow the rules similar to those for working with one-year-old trees. Of all the available branches, leave those that are suitable for forming a reliable structure of the apple tree. Form the crown from 3-5 strong skeletal branches, remove all others. Please note that the conductor is located above all other branches by 4-5 buds, which corresponds to approximately 30 cm.

Instructions for pruning a two-year-old seedling:

• Form a tiered crown by cutting the lower and upper branches to different sizes. The lower branches should be longer than the branches of the upper tier by about 25-30 cm. Pruning the shoots from which skeletal branches will form stimulates branching.
• Shorten the branches growing between the tiers and bend them at an obtuse angle so that they bear fruit faster. If you then select a tiered crown, remove them.
• If the top is forked, then remove the weaker branch from the two branches. You can also make a skeletal branch from an extra branch, transferring it by stretching it to the second or third tier.

The skeletal branches should extend from the central conductor at an angle of 60-90 degrees, no less.

When pruning young apple trees, excess side branches are removed gradually. They are left temporarily so that a stable trunk expanding downwards is formed.

In the video below you can see the correct pruning of young seedlings to form a crown:

fruit tree

When pruning fruit-bearing apple trees, it is recommended to shorten the main branches in order to slightly slow down the growth of the tree. If it spends energy on growing branches, there will be less nutrients left for the fruits. With a correctly formed crown, there will be no special work with spring pruning.

Features of pruning fruiting apple trees:

• Inspect the crown and remove branches that thicken it.
• Trim off all the tops. Vertical growths only disturb the tree - they absorb its strength and prevent the sun from penetrating to the fruits.

Rejuvenation of old wood

30 years for an apple tree is not a death sentence. Thanks to anti-aging pruning, the productive life of a fruit tree can be extended. By removing everything unnecessary, old and rotten, you will rid the garden of branches in which infection and pests can hide. Rejuvenating pruning makes sense if the old tree has a trunk that is not damaged and has several strong skeletal branches. Old apple trees are pruned every 2 years.

Features of anti-aging pruning:

• Remove shoots that shade fruiting branches.
• Remove branches growing inward.
• Trim the top of the trunk at a height of 3 m to leave the crown open.
• Trim dead and damaged branches.
• Remove unpromising branches and you will increase the yield of an old apple tree.
• Next year, during spring pruning, remove skeletal branches that interfere with fruiting branches.

During anti-aging pruning, 1/3 of all branches and shoots are cut out. Most likely, there will be no special harvest this year. In order for renewal processes to begin in the tree, the tree will have to be rejuvenated again over the next two years.

Working with trees on a trellis

It is easy to collect fruits from apple trees formed on wire trellises. Rules for pruning a tree on a trellis:

• To ensure that the tree grows in one plane, direct the strongest branches in opposite directions. The angle of deviation from the central trunk is straight or obtuse.
• Shorten the conductor at a distance of 0.5 m from the branches.
• After a year, repeat the pruning pattern - the side branches are fixed horizontally. Trim weakened branches and competitive apical shoots. Similarly to the previous year, shorten the conductor.
• In summer, lift the young apical shoots of the lateral fixed branches upward with stretchers so that they do not lag behind in growth from the central trunk.
• Form the third tier in the same way as the previous diagram - secure powerful branches, cut off vertical and weakened branches. If you are forming the 4th tier, cut the conductor or tilt it at a right angle, creating the last horizontal line.

Efforts to form the crown are not wasted - espaliered apple trees look very beautiful. Such trees reach a height of 1.8 m on low-growing rootstocks, and 2.5 m on strong-growing rootstocks.

How to prune espaliered apple trees is shown in the following video:

Pruning dwarf trees

Dwarf apple trees need pruning no less than ordinary ones. But it is carried out in express mode. First, sanitary pruning is done, removing all broken and weakened branches. At the same time, the crown of the tree is formed. Pruning of dwarf apple trees begins in the first spring.

Step-by-step instructions for pruning a dwarf apple tree:

• In the first spring, shorten the main shoot at a height of 0.5 m from the ground surface. Make the cut above the bud - in the direction opposite to the graft. As a result of such pruning, by autumn, 4 shoots should appear on the tree - the vertical one will become a conductor.
• In the second spring, cut off the top, retreating 20 cm from the base. Trim the side shoots in the same way - at a distance of 20 cm.
• Trim off any excess side shoots. Trimming level – 3rd sheet.
• In the third spring and all subsequent springs, prune the tree in the same way as in the second spring.
• Once the dwarf tree has grown to your desired height, remove the growing section of conductor annually. Cut off the side shoots when their length exceeds 40-50 cm.
• Perform sanitary pruning every year.
• To keep the main branches horizontal, trim their growth towards the ground.

We recommend reading the article about spring grafting of apple trees.

young tree

Pruning 3-5 year old seedlings takes minimal time. Pruning, although minimal, is extremely important for apple trees beginning to bear fruit.

Instructions for pruning young apple trees by year:

• Third spring: Shorten the shoots in the second tier - by 10-15 cm.
• Trim the growth of skeletal branches by 10 cm.
• If you want, you can leave a few skeletal background branches. Also shorten them by 10-15 cm.
• Remove all branches that compete with the main conductor and with the conductors of the skeletal branches. Trim off any growth on them as well.

Crown formation is completed in the 6th year. For the sixth spring, it remains to select one more skeletal branch in the 2nd tier. In the following springs, thin out the crown and remove excess shoots.

An experienced gardener shows how to prune a young apple tree in the spring in his video below:

Dates

Although the principles of pruning are almost the same, they differ slightly depending on the timing. It is impossible to give an exact date, because it will differ depending on the region, but there are indicative indicators that you need to focus on.

in autumn

Pruning dwarf apple trees in the fall is carried out after the harvest and the leaves have fallen. But it is important to have time to carry out the manipulation three weeks before the cold weather, so that fruit crops are not damaged by frost. To prepare for winter, you need to remove broken and dry shoots.

in spring

Vein pruning should be carried out at a time when the air temperature has already reached above zero, but before the buds begin to bloom. You need to remove branches that have frozen over the winter and top shoots.

Pruning an apple tree in spring.

in winter

In winter, it is preferable to leave the plant alone. But if absolutely necessary, severely damaged shoots can be removed. The procedure is carried out in positive weather, only in the southern regions, where garden plants are not affected by severe frosts.

It is noteworthy that apple trees tolerate pruning in winter much easier than in hot weather. In summer, only in rare cases do they cut off part of the shoots to ensure more thorough exposure of the fruit to sunlight.

Recommendations for beginners on pruning apple trees in the fall

After autumn pruning, the tree begins to prepare for wintering. The gardener himself decides in what way and what technology to prune the apple tree.

In what ways and to what extent are apple trees pruned in the fall?

There are two autumn ways to prune an apple tree:

• thinning (complete cutting of shoots);
• shortening (cutting off a branch by ⅓).

Any shortening of shoots leads to rapid growth and branching of new fruiting branches. At the site of severe pruning, 3-4 strong young shoots are formed. Weak pruning results in short branches. Thinning is a necessary procedure for obtaining a generous harvest, since thanks to this procedure, all branches, fruits and leaves receive the maximum amount of sunlight.

Pruning rules

Methods for forming the crown of an apple tree

The process of crown formation is very important, since the yield and growth of the plant depend on it. There are several methods of formation.

Tiered-discharged

The simplest, easiest way to form a crown:

1. In appearance, the tree is no different from an ordinary apple tree.
2. The shoots are arranged in the form of a tier.
3. This formation has two features: high yield and longevity.
4. With this crown formation, trees should be located at least 3 m apart from each other.

It’s easy to form such a crown; to do this, you need to shorten the main trunk. Its optimal height in the first year after planting should be no more than half a meter. After six months, we begin to cut out shoots in a mirror image. We make sure that the distance in the first tier is at least 30 cm, in the second and subsequent rows - 20 cm.

The next year, another tier is laid at a distance of 45 cm from the previous level. In subsequent years, it is only necessary to maintain the shape by removing the base shoots above the single branch at the top. With this crown formation, the tree should not be allowed to rise more than 2 m.

Tiered-discharged crown shape

Spindle-shaped crown

A fast method characterized by the rapid formation of the skeleton of the conducting branch. How to carry out such pruning can be found in the photo.

spindle crown

Bowl-shaped

This method is suitable for poorly growing apple trees.

Cup-shaped crown

fan palmette

This method is used for apple trees growing around the perimeter of the site. It will take about 4 years to form a crown of this type.

Crown in the form of a fan palmette

How to properly prune an apple tree in the fall

Autumn pruning is carried out for sanitary purposes. To do this, remove dry, damaged and weakened branches. All crossed shoots and shoots growing at an acute angle are also removed. It is necessary to begin work immediately after the leaves fall, before the first frost. Depending on the age and density of the branches, autumn pruning can be done in several ways:

1. Weak - used for a young plant. To do this, ¼ of the length of the annual growth is cut off.
2. Medium – for trees from 5 to 7 years old. ⅓ of the spring growth is removed.
3. Strong - for old apple trees. Large branches are cut in half.

Average apple tree pruning

Trimming Features

There are several features of the procedure that need to be taken into account. They directly relate to the number of shoots cut.

Kidney removal

In spring, buds will appear at the tips of long branches, from which new branches will emerge. They need to be partially removed so that the load is even. Usually those buds located on the sides are removed, and the middle ones are left.

Pruning on rootstock

On rootstocks, pruning is carried out only starting from the third year after planting. All branches will strengthen during this time, and it will be necessary to move on to formation. The central conductor, which will need to be left, and the side ones, which will be trimmed for formation, are clearly indicated. This procedure should be carried out in the spring.

The process of pruning an apple tree onto a rootstock.

Pinching shoots

Pinching the ends of young branches can be done in the summer. You just need to remove a few centimeters of young branches. Every two weeks you can remove a third of the total mass. This procedure will help strengthen the skeletal branches.

Thinning apple trees

Thinning is carried out to ensure that the load on the plants is distributed correctly and evenly. The quantity of the harvest will remain the same, but its quality will improve, the fruits will be larger and juicier. In this case, it is not the branches that are removed, but the extra ovaries and weak apples.

The thinning procedure is carried out at the beginning of summer. For normal functioning, it is enough to simply shake the branches well, then the weak ovaries will fall off on their own.

Rules for pruning an apple tree depending on the age of the tree

It is worth taking into account the age of the dwarf apple tree, since the first years have their own characteristics that must be remembered. Subsequently, the work will be similar, but at first you should take into account the recommendations from this section.

Young apple tree of the first year

If an annual seedling is planted, it should be pruned to reduce nutrient consumption and ensure rapid establishment. Usually leave a height of about 50 cm, no more is needed. This will ensure the appearance of 4-5 strong shoots next year, one of which will be directed vertically upward.

It must be remembered that the cut is made so that the top one is the bud located on the side opposite to the grafting site. It is better to make a cut with pruning shears at an angle of 45°. After finishing the work, you should cover it with garden varnish to prevent infection from entering the wood.

Tree second year of life

In the autumn of the second year, work can be done to form a young tree. The central conductor must be shortened by at least 10 cm. The side branches must be cut by about a third, focusing on the buds and leaving the outer one on top, so that later branches will appear that will go in the right direction.

You must proceed from the size of the tree and remember that the apple tree must develop progressively. In the first years it does not need to grow. This not only takes up resources, but also slows down shoot formation.

Third year of life

During this period, work should be carried out in approximately the same order as in the second year. The difference is that the tree grows even more and you need to decide on the scheme that will be used subsequently. It is best to choose a specific option and figure out what needs to be done with the apple tree in order to shape it correctly.

The generally accepted rule is to shorten the shoots by about a third. The cuts are made so that the outermost bud is directed upward, then the crown will grow evenly. The number of branches should also be normalized; their total number should not be more than six.

How to prune dwarf apple trees

On dwarf crowns there is an opportunity to experiment. Gardeners shape the apple tree to their own taste, creating simple standard compositions or outlandish shapes.

Tiered-discharged

This crown shape is practical and convenient, one of the most common among apple trees. By creating a uniform load and proper formation, all shoots receive enough sun and light.

To create, you need to select 3-4 skeletal branches that will be located at the correct distance. Second-order branches should be located between the first ones and slightly higher so that they grow evenly.

Spindle shaped

You can begin spindle-shaped formation from the first year of the apple tree’s life. To do this, leave a central conductor and side branches on the sides. There will be no skeletal shoots here; they are all the same in thickness and growth vigor. To correctly create such a shape, you need to remove those growing at an acute angle, and, if necessary, bend the lower ones.

Scheme for trimming a slender spindle.

Bowl-shaped

In order to form a fruit crop in the form of a bowl, you need to grow it for several years according to the sparse-tiered principle, and then cut off the central conductor. Leave 3-4 branches around the perimeter so that the angle is 130 degrees. With this method of growing, the apple tree becomes stronger.

Pruning an apple tree in the shape of a bowl.

Pyramid pruning

This method is one of the simplest, and therefore popular. She can start already in the second year. It is important to leave the central conductor and form side branches from long at the bottom to slightly shorter at the top. This creates a pyramid shape.

Pirami pruning.

fan palmette

When creating this kind of roots, the branches are positioned so that they are vertical and in the same plane. For this, special trellises are used that support the shoots. The branches at the edges can be left straight, or they can be bent upward.

This is what a fan palmette looks like.

This form provides more free space in the garden and the opportunity to plant apple trees near the fence or make a fence from the plantings themselves.

Correct pruning technique

Bud pruning

This is done to give the shoot the desired direction of growth. Shorten to a bud located on the outside of the branch. Make an oblique cut at 45 degrees. The stump is left 1 cm away. It cannot be closer, otherwise you can damage the kidney.

Trimming to ring

The woody growth at the very base of a thickened branch is called a ring. The cut should only be made along the outer edge. Then it will be covered with new bark and will not cause any harm. If the cut is too close, it will rot. It is even possible that a hollow will form. Before cutting a thick branch, you need to make a cut from the bottom and then saw it. Otherwise, it may collapse, peeling off the bark.

The cut needs to be cleaned with a knife and covered with a mixture of fresh mullein and clay, or oil paint.

Side branch pruning

A side branch is made when two branches grow from the same place and a fork forms. The damaged surface is treated.

Crown formation in a dwarf apple tree

Dwarf trees are already popular all over the world. They begin to bear fruit in the third year. They also need spring pruning. They begin to form the crown immediately after planting.

Cut it to 50 cm, using the bud cut method. By the end of the season, 4-5 shoots will appear, of which the top one will grow almost vertically. This is the future guide. After a year, it is pruned 20 cm from the base of the growth.

The conductor must have a vertical direction. The remaining branches are cut 20 cm from the base. The side branches are cut into three leaves, and the shoots of the second level are cut into the very first leaf. In the third year and beyond they continue in the same way. When the tree has grown enough, it will be necessary to remove the growth from the guide. Growth from the skeletal main branches is removed by 40–50 cm. The apple tree should take the shape of a pyramid.

Formation of a columnar apple tree

The columnar apple tree is a tree with a single trunk, from which short shoots extend. They are called ringlets. Requires minimal pruning.

The main trunk cannot be shortened. The crown is formed in three springs:

1. In the first year, all unnecessary side branches are cut off for only two buds.
2. On the second, horizontal branches of 30 cm are removed. Vertical branches near the main trunk are not touched. They are needed for future apples.
3. In the third spring, the upper shoot is slightly shortened, last year's branches are cut by 25 cm and the upper regrown shoots are shortened by two buds. A few shoots are left for fruit.

At five years, they begin to limit the further growth of the tree. The top is the weakest zone of a columnar apple tree. Frost and wind can damage it. Then you can form trunks from two side branches.

Pruning according to tree age

Depending on the age of the apple tree, there are several important nuances when pruning.

First year apple tree

When planting in spring, the apple tree can be pruned for the first time in the fall. Seedlings need to be cut to stimulate the growth of side shoots.

Second year of life

In the spring of the second year of life, you need to cut off the central conductor. You also need to remove the tops of the side shoots, as well as those that grow downwards.

Third year of life

In the third year, pruning activities need to be carried out in the spring. The central conductor will have to be shortened, as well as the side shoots. In autumn, remove all young branches and cut them into three leaves.

Mature apple tree

An adult, low-growing apple tree needs sanitary pruning and crown formation every year. Remove all vertical shoots except the central conductor. The remaining side ones are shortened to achieve the ideal crown shape. For sanitary purposes, damaged, broken or frozen shoots are removed. Also those that thicken the crown and grow inward or at an acute angle.

Pruning old apple trees

Old apple trees are pruned in several stages for rejuvenation. In order not to harm the culture, it is necessary to carry out rejuvenation at three years. Apple trees are gradually freed from old branches and the growth of young ones is stimulated. Large shoots are cut down with a hacksaw and the wounds are covered with garden varnish.

Tools

Pruning fruit trees will give results only when using high-quality tools. All knives and pruners must be well sharpened and disinfected. Secateurs with long handles are needed to remove thick branches. It is also used for pruning branches that grow in hard-to-reach places.

Before pruning you need to prepare:

1. Garden knife.
2. Garden var.
3. Material for dressing.

You will also need a saw. The video clearly demonstrates detailed pruning in the fall for beginners.

Care after pruning apple trees

After pruning, the apple tree needs to provide a number of manipulations:

1. Remove all trash.
2. Cover strong cuts with garden varnish.
3. Spray against diseases and pests.
4. Feed with nitrogen in the spring and organic matter in the fall.
5. Water the plant.

After all these procedures, the apple tree will noticeably begin to grow and will look more tidy.

Fertilizing the apple tree.

Everything you need to know about tree pruning

Pruning is very important for apple trees. As the tree grows, the crown thickens, there are more branches, and they transmit less light necessary for the ripening of apples. This affects both the quantity and quality of the harvest. There are fewer apples, they become smaller and their taste worsens.

In a dense crown there is a high risk of pests that damage the bark and destroy the foliage. In addition, excess moisture collects in the dense crown, which provokes fungal diseases. Another important reason is ripe fruits. When the crown is thickened, harvesting is difficult, apples often remain hanging on the branches, begin to rot, and become a breeding ground for diseases and pests.

Gardeners advise pruning every year without fail. This will help long-term fruiting and increase productivity. In addition, it will protect against pests.

Thus, its goals are:

• formation of the apple tree crown;
• regulation of proper growth and stable fruiting;
• regulating the apple tree's needs for nutrients and water;
• improving the quality characteristics of the future harvest;
• improvement of air and light conditions.

If you do not trim, then:

• many unnecessary forks are formed;
• dry intertwined branches are formed;
• superfluous shoots are formed;
• shoots grow on apple tree roots;
• wood becomes fragile;
• the period of the beginning of fruiting is delayed.

There are three types of pruning:

1. Sanitary pruning. Bad, dry, fungus-affected branches are removed.
2. Rejuvenating. The branches are shortened to stimulate growth and increase the number of fruits.
3. Formative. They create a developed trunk and a regular crown for the tree.

The process begins by removing all frozen and dry branches. Frozen branches do not bear fruit, and the apple tree will only waste energy restoring them. Then all annual young shoots are removed. They take food from the main tree.

The remaining branches are cut off according to the height of the tree. The taller the tree, the greater the number of buds left on the branches. At least eight eyes are left on the branches of tall trees.

It is recommended to lay the crown in three main tiers. The first consists of three skeletal branches. The second should contain three main taps. And the third is two branches. After the apple tree is five years old, the main trunk is shortened. This formation is ideal. It is not recommended to make more tiers; this will greatly complicate harvesting.

Rules for pruning apple trees

1. Select the main skeletal branches located around the trunk at an angle of 45 degrees. Spacers must be used if they are not available.
2. Conventionally, the crown should be divided into the necessary tiers. Three recommended. The main branches on each of them are made the same length. The excess is removed.
3. The proposed trunk is made 30-50 cm higher than the branches of the uppermost tier.
4. The branches of the lowest tier should be longer than the upper branches
5. The branches of the second, which grow on skeletal ones, should be 20-25 cm from the base.
6. Shoots that grow inward and upward are usually removed, but shoots that grow downward and horizontally can be left. They are needed for future fruits.
7. Annual shoots over 60 cm are pruned.

Typical beginner mistakes

Inexperienced gardeners can do more harm than good. This is due to the fact that without proper preparation they undertake pruning.

To carry out the procedure correctly, you need:

• check that the instrument is sharp and disinfect it;
• carry out pruning when the apple tree is dormant, in spring or autumn;
• do not cut off more than a quarter of the total mass of shoots, so as not to injure the apple tree.

Before pruning, if you have no experience, you should consult with experienced gardeners or read the relevant information. It is better to be prepared than to injure the plant.

Pruning dwarf apple trees in the Moscow region

Approximate schedule for pruning a dwarf apple tree in the Moscow region:

• In spring: from late February to early May. During this period, it is necessary to have time to carry out formative and rejuvenating pruning of mature trees. Remove broken and damaged branches.
• Summer: August-September. Annual growths are pruned.
• Autumn: mid-October to mid-November.
• Due to temperature fluctuations and unstable weather, winter pruning in the Moscow region is not recommended.

In order to avoid harm to the tree, you should consider some recommendations from experienced gardeners:

1. Tools must be of high quality and sharp. No signs of rust.
2. Before and after work, the tools are washed and disinfected. If this is ignored, there is a risk of infection of the tree.
3. Trimming is done to the optimal length. If you shorten it too much, it will negatively affect the condition of the plant and the future harvest.
4. Pruning should only be done when the plant does not have too active sap flow. The best time for this is the beginning of spring or the end of autumn.
5. If it is necessary to trim a sufficiently large number of branches, then it is better to postpone this to the spring and do it in stages.
6. When pruning the crown, you need to remember an important rule - branches do not grow the same way. There are always strong and weak shoots among them. To avoid this, it is necessary to control their development: prune the apple tree so that the weak branches are located above the strong branches.

Any rejuvenating or shaping pruning requires further care. In order for the apple tree to recover faster from the damage caused to it, it must be fed with complex mineral fertilizers. All cut areas should be coated with garden varnish or painted over with drying oil-based paint.

Young seedlings need one day to dry out and recover from the wounds they receive. For older apple trees, this process will last from several weeks to several months. Treating the wound is very important to prevent the tree from becoming infected with various fungal and viral diseases.

Need for pruning

Apple tree pruning is mandatory. During the procedure, rotten, damaged, diseased branches are removed. If this is not done, rot will affect the healthy parts of the plant. Thanks to pruning, it is possible to restore the balance between the crown and roots and give the tree the desired shape. On an apple tree with a very dense crown, the yield will be low. The fruits grow tasteless, small and wormy. The crown should not be wider than the root system. If it is much larger, the roots will not have enough nutrients. This will cause it to wither and ultimately die. Therefore, the tree really needs them, it needs them in order to grow and develop normally.

Before carrying out the procedure, you should familiarize yourself with the main concepts. So an annual plant is one that has grown throughout the year. The first order branches extending from the trunk are called skeletal. Branches of the second row subsequently grow from them. The part of the trunk that is located at the very top is the central conductor. Side shoots located close to the trunk are called competitors. The overgrowing branch is a side branch, most often it is small in size and has buds. If favorable conditions are created for the normal growth and development of flower buds, they will definitely bloom, and the growth bud will later begin to grow and become a shoot. Basal shoots are fresh branches. They grow both from the roots and from the trunk, but cannot appear above the grafting site.