How to prune an apricot in the fall - diagram. How to properly prune an apricot in the fall and why it is needed

With the development of selection and the development of more frost-resistant varieties, apricots began to be grown in a much larger area of ​​our country than before. Caring for this crop is, by and large, simple, but what stands out is pruning, which not everyone understands and can do correctly. Today we will look at when and how to properly prune apricots in the fall in this article.

Recommended timing of work in different regions 2. Selecting tools for work 3. What procedure to carry out depending on the age of the plant 3.1. How to do formative pruning correctly 3.2. Sanitary pruning of apricot in autumn 3.3. Rejuvenating procedure for adult plants 4. Rules for caring for the crop after the autumn procedure

Photo by ru.depositphotos: Autumn pruning is a mandatory procedure for the crop.

When to prune peach and apricot. Features of peach pruning in autumn for beginners

Pruning is not such an easy process as it might seem at first. You need to know some subtleties so as not to harm the tree. Read the following information carefully to understand when and how to prune your peach.

Tools needed

To work with wood you will need:

• pruner;
• lopper;
• wood scissors;
• garden saw;
• garden knife.

Thin branches are removed using scissors and pruners. The lopper is used for branches with a diameter of up to 5 cm and those that grow deep in the crown. Thick branches are removed with a saw.

Important! Before starting work, all tools must be disinfected with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

Scheme and technology of pruning

Before starting manipulations, it is necessary to understand the types of shoots of the tree.

They are:

• bouquet (25–30 cm long, densely dotted with vegetative buds);
• growth buds (only growth buds and leaves appear on them);
• tops (grow vertically, inside the crown, have sparsely located buds, do not bear fruit);
• fruit, or generative (15–20 cm long, the entire ovary practically falls off, the fruits are small and at the top);
• mixed (thick, produce leaf and fruit buds);
• summer or premature (occurs on shoots of the previous type at the end of summer, very thin, does not survive winter).

Peach pruning for replacement (1) and fruiting (2); 3 - place for cutting out a branch that has borne fruit. Each of the listed types of shoots has its own removal characteristics:

1. Bouquet - cut completely on trees under 3 years old.
2. Sprouts are removed completely to ensure a good harvest.
3. Tops - partially pruned only if the tree froze last winter.
4. Fruit trees most often die off on their own during the winter.
5. Mixed ones are left.
6. Premature ones die off on their own.

Did you know? In China, it is believed that if a woman treats a man to a peach, this can be interpreted as an offer of sex.

How to carry out all the manipulations correctly:

1. Take the necessary tool and disinfect it.
2. Examine the plant carefully. Look for damaged, dry, diseased branches on it. If a branch is completely unviable, cut it off. If only the middle part is damaged, cut below the damage, taking in the healthy part.
3. Trim the branches along the ring (at the base).
4. Remove all small, thin, underdeveloped branches with short distances between nodes.

Rules for haircut procedures

Before you begin pruning a fruit plant, you need to prepare the garden tools that will be needed in the process. The pruning shears, garden knife and saw must be well sharpened so as not to cause gross damage to the trees through torn cuts.

It is important to make sure that you have garden varnish to cover the wounds of the plant immediately after pruning, since after a couple of hours the sap will already get on the tree bark and the product will not be able to help in the fight against the development of harmful microorganisms on its surface. If it is not possible to purchase garden varnish, or it is not at hand, then you can successfully replace it with oil paint on drying oil, copper sulfate or clay.

To ensure that the pruning procedure does not cause irreparable harm to the apricot, you should follow some recommendations from specialists and experienced gardeners:

• Last year's shoots are cut off near the buds, so that the cuts in the lower part are at the same level as the buds, and in the upper part - above them. Stumps should not be left because they immediately become a habitat for pests.
• The choice of gardening tool should be based on the thickness of the part of the plant being cut: if it is a thin young shoot, then it will be more convenient to use a pruner, and if a thick branch is removed, you need to use a saw. To ensure that the cuts are as even as possible, it is not enough to sharpen the blades of the tools - after the pruning procedure, it is advisable to clean the wounds with a garden knife.
• If the crown is very thick, you can safely cut off all the branches that are deprived of sunlight and grow towards the ground.
• Parallel cuts always cause a serious wound to the plant. Whatever the diameter of the branch or shoot, it should be cut at an angle of about 45 degrees.

By listening to advice on proper autumn pruning of apricot trees, even a novice summer resident will be able to form a crown that will bear fruit abundantly and regularly.

Apricot pruning from A to Z. Autumn pruning

When the active fruiting stage is over, all the fruits have been successfully eaten or turned into jams with compotes, the gardener and his family are happy, and the apricot, as a rule, looks somewhat emaciated. Summer heat often contributes to its condition, but the main energy is spent by the plant during the period of fruit ripening. Based on this, it is necessary to equalize the forces between fruiting and deciduous branches by properly removing them; the main thing is to understand how to properly prune an apricot in the fall.

This is the paradox! If in relation to other fruit trees a similar procedure is carried out in order to increase the yield, then in the case of apricots - on the contrary, to reduce its quantity. In fact, there is no need to do regulatory autumn pruning. It is ignored mainly by gardeners who do not spare the tree, and those who take care of the plant and want to receive at least a not too massive, but at least regular and very tasty harvest, be sure to prune the tree, thereby contributing to its good condition and longevity. Apricot pruning in the fall looks like this:

• approximately a third of the fruiting branches are removed;
• the branches that form the frame of the tree are not touched, since the shape of the crown depends on them, but if desired, some “wrong” branches can be removed;
• all remaining branches capable of bearing fruit are shortened to approximately 45-50 cm;
• if there are dry or large-looking twigs, get rid of them too.

Such work must be completed by the end of October. This is an ideal time, since the growing season is already over, and the first frosts are not yet in sight. Of course, each gardener adapts to his own climatic conditions. And one more nuance: autumn pruning is acceptable only for those apricots that bear fruit quite early. If fruit ripening has ended relatively late, then it is better to limit yourself exclusively to spring and summer care, otherwise there is a risk of harming the plant. Due to the individual characteristics of different varieties, the question of when to prune apricots: in spring or autumn, disappears on its own.

How to care for a tree after pruning

The tree endures any injury painfully. Therefore, it is important to provide the apricot with proper care after removing the branches:

1. Immediately disinfect the cut and cover it with garden paint, resin, and wax.
2. Water the crop generously. This will help replenish lost juice.
3. Feeding the plant will help it recover faster.
4. If there was no autumn feeding, fertilize the plant. For young wine – 2 tsp. superphosphate and potassium sulfate, for an adult tree - a tablespoon of the same compositions.
5. Cover the tree trunk area with compost, hay, and sawdust.

Apricot, like any tree, requires proper pruning. Improvement and increase in productivity are the result of correct and timely work.

Dry apricot branches. Young apricot branches are drying

Please, help! The apricot is 3 years old, resin is forming on the trunk, the young branches are withering before our eyes! A lot has been written on the Internet about diseases, but very little about their treatment. Tell me what to do, throw out the apricots (2 pieces) and plant new ones, or still try to treat them. And what to treat?

+4

this is the solution

It's a shame to throw it away. The picture is typical for moniliosis. Remove all affected branches and, where possible, take 5 cm of healthy wood. Keep an eye on the fruits and remove any rotten or mummified ones. This is a breeding ground for disputes. Do not allow the crown to thicken. White the trunk and skeletal branches with lime and copper sulfate. In autumn, after the leaves have fallen, treat with a 7% urea solution and a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture or a 5% solution of ferrous sulfate. In spring, again 3% Bordeaux before buds open. You can use iron sulfate in the fall, and Bordeaux mixture in the spring. For leaves, 1% Bordeaux mixture or 0.4% copper oxychloride. It is good to use drugs Skor, strobe, chorus. According to the instructions with the obligatory maintenance of the period until harvesting. After harvesting, these treatments must be continued. Within a year, such a fight against moniliosis will become insufficient.

OksanaVel (asker) May 4, 2016

Thanks a lot for the advice! Two apricots turned out to be very badly damaged, the branches simply dried out before our eyes, I still had to remove them, and yesterday I saw that the same thing happened to my miracle cherry. Until then, I will fight for its existence! When the apricot was uprooted, the trunk inside was completely black! Just awful!

Do not plant any stone fruits in place of uprooted apricots. The black center is not moniliosis. The heartwood of the tree is affected by verticilliosis, also a fungal disease, but fatal to the tree. If the branches stood relatively normally before flowering, and then suddenly withered and dried out within a day or two, then these are signs of verticillium damage.

OksanaVel (asker) May 4, 2016

Yesterday, of course, I already planted one new apricot in the same place! What to do? Transplant? What to do with cherries? Did she have the same symptoms as the apricot?

If the tree withers in ONE day, this is a sign of verticillium infection. Before this, the disease cannot be noticed. If the cherry is alive, then it is moniliosis. I’ve had 3 trees die in different years - a cherry and 2 sweet cherries, I’ve seen enough. It’s too late to replant; if there was an infection, then it’s already caught. There is a general rule - after stone fruits only pome fruits and vice versa. These include diseases and the removal of various nutrients. While the tree is young, water it with a solution of foundationazole. It is absorbed by the roots and will help the tree cope with existing diseases.

OksanaVel (asker) May 4, 2016

Thanks a lot for the advice! I’ll try to compete for the cherries, I’ve already read everything on the Internet..... I really feel sorry for the young trees.....

Appearance and size of apricot tree

The apricot tree is a fairly tall garden crop. Tall varieties can reach up to 12 m in height. A wide spreading crown develops a round or slightly elongated shape. The thickness of the trunk can exceed half a meter in diameter. The height of the trunk is 40-60 cm. The bark of an adult tree has a grayish-brown tint. And young shoots are red and green. The root system consists of a central core and lateral shoots. The depth of the roots is from 30 to 50 cm. The radius of the apricot root system is 2 times the projection of the crown, which must be taken into account when planting seedlings and cultivating the land near the tree.

How to deal with pests?

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On which branches does the apricot bear fruit? Apricot pruning

Tree pruning is one of the elements of plant care technology. Regular pruning of apricots affects the development of the tree and increases productivity. Professionals recommend systematically pruning the crop due to several factors:

• Apricot is a light-loving crop, it needs good lighting, but it develops quickly and grows with a high and thick crown.
• The tree is not able to independently regulate the amount of harvest. After abundant fruiting, it does not recover strength well, gets sick, and the branches dry out, which affects the life of the tree.
• Without pruning, fruiting gradually decreases and becomes irregular.
• A weakened plant does not tolerate frost well.
• In an exhausted tree, the quality of the harvest gradually deteriorates.

To achieve full fruiting and long life of the crop, it is necessary to constantly perform different types of pruning.

Types of pruning and timing

To maintain proper tree development, the following types of pruning are performed:

1. Formative.
2. Regulating.
3. Rejuvenating.
4. Restorative.
5. Sanitary.

All types of pruning are carried out in a comprehensive manner. To carry out the work, choose one of the seasons of the year - spring, summer, autumn.

1. Apricot pruning in spring is carried out before the leaves bloom (in March-April) at a temperature of at least +8°C. Spring pruning is considered one of the most appropriate for regions with cold winters, as it enhances the winter hardiness of the tree.
2. In the summer, in early June, before the formation of new buds, before flowering, only rejuvenating procedures are carried out.
3. In summer, in August, experts recommend performing basic regulatory pruning. If you prune a tree in August, the buds will form later and will bloom later and will not suffer from return frosts.
4. Autumn pruning of apricot. It is carried out between the 10th and 20th of October, when the tree has finished bearing fruit, at a temperature not lower than +8°C. Under such conditions, tree wounds heal faster. The time is selected depending on the temperature regime of the region.

Performed for medium-sized varieties, early and old trees.

Main types of apricot crowns

The process of forming a regular, well-ventilated and illuminated apricot crown begins in the first years of growth. Continues for 4 years until the onset of fruiting. After the start of fruiting, formative pruning is not carried out for some time (2-3 years). Apricots have two types of crowns:

• sparsely tiered with 5-7 main branches, which are spaced 30-40 cm apart from each other;
• flattened cup-shaped crown. In general, it is done in the same way as when creating a tiered crown; the tree is left without a guide.

Dwarf trees are formed by bushes. The most common is a sparsely layered crown. The apricot pruning scheme is simple; according to the scheme, even a novice gardener will do the job successfully.

Formation of a sparse-tiered crown

Let's look at how to prune an apricot to obtain a tiered crown. As a rule, it can be formed in several approaches during the first four years of the tree’s life:

• In the spring, immediately after planting, primary pruning of the annual seedling is performed. If the seedling does not have branches, after planting it should be pruned at a level of 80-90 cm.
• If it has lateral branches, choose 3-4 that are directed along the row, cut them to 60 cm per outer bud. Cut the remaining branches into a ring (as close to the trunk as possible). The central conductor should be 25-30 cm higher than the others. The height of the stem is 50 cm.
• Pruning of planted two-year-old trees is carried out every other year, since rooting of the plant will take a long time.

Aftercare

Apricot consistently bears fruit on short lateral branches (20-25 cm), despite the fact that approximately 80-90 cm of branches grow on the shoots per year. In the absence of regular pruning, small sprouts reaching 5-8 cm can be found on the shoots.

If they are not removed, then after a few years they will begin to bear fruit. Such shoots can produce crops for 2-4 years, after which they become unviable. For this reason, it is necessary to regularly update young seedlings and shorten several shoots on the branches.

Pruning plum trees in autumn. Purposes of plum pruning

In order to have a good plum harvest, the following basic conditions must be met:

• provide the ripening fruits with enough sunlight (this cannot be done without thinning the crown);
• allow the wood of the fruiting shoots to fully ripen (to do this, cut out the weak ones);
• protect the tree and fruits from pests (regular inspection requires removing excess branches);
• prevent possible diseases (prophylactic spraying of thickened crowns is ineffective);
• ensure the possibility of uniform filling and ripening of fruits (for this it is recommended to thin out the crown and remove weak shoots with small cream).

After strong wind, snow or rain, there are many damaged branches in the garden. They should also be cut out.

Sanitary

This type of plum pruning is performed by all gardeners. Over the years of life the tree:

• suffers from bad weather;
• the wind breaks branches;
• snow sticks to the shoots and causes their damage;
• harmful insects parasitize in bark and wood and cause shoots to dry out;
• Winter cold causes the death of fruiting shoots.

In order to preserve the variety and prolong fruiting, sanitary pruning is carried out. Proper implementation ensures harvests of healthy fruits.

Sanitary pruning is carried out at any time of the year. But the air temperature should not fall below -5 degrees Celsius.

Thinning

During its life, the plum produces too many shoots. This is especially true for varieties of folk selection and old species. Not all shoots will begin to bear fruit in the future, and the tree’s strength will be taken away. Many branches cross and rub against each other. As a result, the bark is damaged and infection penetrates into the wounds. The plant begins to hurt, fruiting stops. Subsequently, the tree may die. The abundance of shoots leads to shading of the crown and ripening fruits.

The tree must direct nutrition and moisture to the ripening fruits. And you have to share with useless branches. And in this case, no amount of nutrition and watering will provide the gardener with a decent harvest of plums. Thinning pruning is carried out in order to prevent damage to the tree and ensure stable fruiting.

Formative

This type of pruning is carried out to give the tree an ideal crown shape for ease of care and to ensure abundant fruiting. It should begin from the moment the tree is planted in the garden. A well-formed crown gives the plum a decorative appearance. Formative pruning is often combined with thinning and sanitary pruning. This happens in case of unforeseen vagaries of nature or with an unexpectedly large increase.

Formative pruning is stressful for the tree. It is carried out when sap flow has not yet begun (in February-March) or has already stopped (October-November).

Rejuvenating

Quite a brutal procedure. It is recommended to do it when a gardener wants to restore fruiting of a valuable plum variety.

The essence of this operation:

• all old branches are deleted;
• young ones are cut out (crossing, rubbing against each other, shading the crown, growing inside the crown);
• the remaining ones are shortened by 1/3.

The tree perceives the situation as critical, life-threatening. After this procedure, the plum either dies or restores fruiting. But you should not expect a miracle: the tree will produce an average harvest for 1-2 years, and then fruiting will stop again.

Purpose of trimming

Pruning is a complex agrotechnical procedure that is used in the care of shrubs and fruit trees. Apricot needs it for a number of reasons:

• The branches of the tree are growing rapidly. Pruning will help form a neat crown;
• if you neglect the procedure, the number of fruit-bearing buds laid will decrease, and the size of the remaining fruits will noticeably decrease;
• At first, unpruned apricot branches will actively bear fruit. However, the crown will become too thick. After a couple of years, the internal branches will begin to break and crumble;
• without regular pruning, the growth of young shoots will stop;
• unlike other trees, apricot does not “shed” the excess ovary. With its excessive amount, it gradually weakens and becomes depleted. Immunity to various diseases also decreases;
• If you do not control the volume of the future harvest during the first years after planting the seedling, this will lead to branches breaking under the weight of the fruit.

Timely pruning will not only provide large and juicy fruits, but will also extend the life of the tree.

Types of apricot pruning. Basic rules for pruning apricots

To avoid causing deep, long-healing wounds to the plant, the tools must be well sharpened before pruning. All cutting blades must be disinfected using any alcohol-containing product.

Did you know? The most winter-hardy variety of apricot, Siberian, which can withstand temperatures down to -45°C, is listed in the Red Book. Unfortunately, its fruits are only conditionally edible.

To form the crown

The formation of the crown must be carried out already on a one-year-old seedling. The first procedure consists of forming a skeleton from a central shoot and two lateral ones. The distance between the branches is approximately 40 cm. Then, as it grows, a tree with 5-7 tiers of shoots is formed. Second-order branches should be 35 cm apart from each other. All competing and unpromising branches are cut out. Shoots that grow inward are also cut out so that the crown is not too dense.

Thinning during crown formation is a very important aspect: fruits need a lot of solar heat and light for maximum development and flavor development. If there is not enough sun, the fruits will be sour and hard.

For rejuvenation

The rejuvenating procedure is necessary for mature trees with weak growth. Shoots growing only 20 cm need stimulation. After the procedure, old apricot shoots will begin to give good growth, fruiting and growth of young branches will increase.

For fruiting

Apricots bear fruit when they are 3-4 years old. The crop does not shed its ovaries, so it requires normal pruning. To preserve the plant’s strength to form large and sweet fruits, some of the ovaries are cut off. Limiting fruiting in favor of quality rather than quantity of the harvest prolongs the life of the plant.

For treatment

Sanitary pruning will help prevent disease of the entire tree in case of partial damage. The affected branch is cut off and the cut is treated with an antiseptic and varnish. This approach preserves the culture and helps avoid long-term treatment. Also, during the sanitary procedure, broken, frozen shoots are removed.

Rejuvenating an old apricot

If the gardener has not properly cared for the tree, then within five years the growth of new shoots will stop. But apricot has a good regenerative function - one rejuvenating pruning is enough for it to resume branch growth. With the arrival of autumn, the gardener must adhere to two basic rules:

1. Identify the oldest branches or those that have already stopped bearing fruit. It is forbidden to remove all unnecessary shoots at once. For work you need to use a sharp saw.
2. Among all the variety of branches you need to find the youngest ones. All shoots growing in a chaotic manner are cut down.

After such pruning, all nutrients will be directed to the development of the remaining branches and the formation of a good ovary. It is worth noting that old wood is not cut off immediately, as this can cause the death of the apricot.

Deadlines by region

When choosing which month to carry out the procedure, be sure to take into account the climate. Depending on this, the timing varies. You need to do everything right to have a good harvest. If the timing is incorrect, there is a risk of plant death.

In central Russia and the Moscow region, the procedure is carried out from October 1 to October 15. In the Chernozem region and Volgograd, haircuts begin in the middle of the month. In the Urals, the procedure is carried out in September.

In the South and Belarus, pruning is carried out at the end of October or beginning of November.

To properly trim an apricot, take into account the temperature. It should not be lower than 8 degrees. It is advisable that the weather be dry and windless. In this case, the branches will heal much faster.

What tools are needed for the job?

Caring for any garden crop is impossible without the following tools:

• saws;
• pruning shears;
• knife for gardening;
• whetstone for sharpening tools;
• twine (it supports the branches);
• garden var (for healing wounds after the procedure).

All instruments are carefully sharpened. To sharpen a garden knife, use a whetstone soaked in water. This will help remove excess iron filings from it. After sharpening, check the operation of the tools. The secateurs are adjusted by tightening the nut. If the grip is tight, loosen it, and if the grip is weak, the nut needs to be tightened.

Before work, all saw teeth are moved to the sides, tilting them alternately to the left and to the right. The bend angle must be the same. The sharp side of the teeth should point inward.

Attention!

Before manipulation, all instruments must be disinfected. This will protect the culture from dangerous diseases.

What happens if you don't prune?

If this event is not carried out, the apricots will become small, dry and tasteless. The tree will look untidy with long branches sticking out in different directions. In the absence of rejuvenating pruning, any garden crop will stop growing. A dense, unthinned crown can cause dangerous fungal diseases. Many weak and diseased shoots will appear, and fruiting may stop.

Why do you need to prune an apricot?

In the process of pruning apricots, gardeners:

• form a well-groomed crown. The tree looks beautiful and healthy. All long and loose lashes must be removed;
• rejuvenate the branches: if the crown is too thick, the internal branches die off, and the crop quickly begins to age;
• to increase the number and size of fruits;
• to prevent shoots from becoming brittle. Apricot fruits are heavy. If the branches are weak, they may break under their weight.

Important! There are several types of pruning. In the spring months and autumn it is carried out for sanitary purposes, removing frozen, dried and diseased branches.