It is impossible to find people indifferent to raspberries. In order for large-fruited berries with a persistent aroma to grow on the plot, gardeners try to choose a successful variety. Raspberries “Peresvet”, due to its characteristics, are included in the line of the “Golden Collection of Caucasian Raspberries”.
The raspberry variety “Peresvet” was obtained by crossing the popular “Stolichnaya” and “Soldzh”. For raspberry lovers, the most important property of the variety turned out to be the amazing unpretentiousness of the plant. To make the acquaintance complete, let’s take a closer look at the description of the Peresvet raspberry variety, photos of the plant and fruits, and reviews from gardeners.
Description of the raspberry variety Peresvet
The Peresvet raspberry bush is tall, upright and compact. The shoots are brown, their number is average. The spines are medium-sized, hard, with a purple base. Annual branches are reddish and do not have a waxy coating. The leaves are powerful, wrinkled, slightly twisted.
Characteristics of berries of the Peresvet variety:
- dark red color;
- weight 2.6 g;
- elongated shape;
- sweet and sour pulp;
- faint aroma.
The fruits are quite dense and do not crumble when harvested. The Peresvet raspberry variety is recommended to be grown in the Central region and the Volga region.
Trimming and tying
The tying of Peresvet raspberries must be done, since the bushes of the variety are quite spreading. If the trench planting method is used, then it is enough to pull the fishing line and make a garter when the shoots reach about 1.5 meters in height. This will protect them from fractures.
Pruning is required to rejuvenate the crop and stimulate growth in the next season. It is held exclusively in the fall as follows:
- Dry and diseased shoots are trimmed.
- Then the side branches that do not have branches are removed.
- Skeletal branches are pruned to a height of about 1 meter.
Important! All cut branches must be burned in order to avoid contamination of the soil in the garden plot. Raspberry shoots are almost hollow; microorganisms or pests can easily live in them.
Characteristics of the variety
Before choosing raspberries, the positive aspects of the variety are assessed: the ability to tolerate drought and frost, yield and ripening period.
Drought resistance, frost resistance
According to reviews from gardeners, Peresvet raspberries tolerate frosts down to -26 °C. In cold regions, plantings are covered for the winter. Drought resistance is average. Adding moisture is a mandatory stage of care. Raspberries are watered according to the standard scheme for this crop.
Productivity and fruiting
The variety bears fruit in the mid-late period. Usually this is the last ten days of July or the beginning of August, which depends on the growing region. The harvest is extended, lasting until the beginning of September. 3.5-4 kg of fruits are removed from one bush. Productivity per 1 sq. m landings - 16 kg. The tasting score of the berries is 4.7 points. Raspberries hang on the branches for a long time and do not fall off.
Area of application of fruits
Berries of the Peresvet variety have universal use. They are consumed fresh and processed to produce homemade products. Jams, jams, and compotes are made from raspberries. The fruits are also dried and frozen for the winter. Due to its dense pulp, raspberries can withstand long transportation and storage.
Resistance to diseases and pests
The Peresvet variety is slightly affected by anthracnose and purple spot. To protect plantings from diseases, preventive measures are taken. Bushes are sometimes attacked by raspberry mites.
Advantages and disadvantages of the variety
The main advantages of Peresvet raspberries:
- stable yield;
- commercial quality of fruits;
- universal purpose;
- resistance to diseases.
Disadvantages of the Peresvet variety:
- average taste;
- the presence of thorns on the shoots.
Harvesting and transportation
Harvesting is carried out as the berries ripen. They are collected by hand. Fully ripe berries are easily removed from the receptacle. They are immediately laid out in low boxes lined with parchment paper in one layer.
Store in a dark room at a temperature of +5...+10°C and a relative humidity of 70%. Under such conditions, the fruits remain fresh for a week. If necessary, transport them immediately after collection. The product tolerates transportation well over long distances due to its dense structure.
The winter-hardy raspberry variety Peresvet adapts perfectly to any climate conditions and produces good yields even with minimal care, so even a novice gardener can cope with its cultivation.
The main agrotechnical measures that should be given more attention to increase productivity are watering and fertilizing.
Landing Features
Proper planting will ensure stable fruiting of raspberries. For the Peresvet variety, choose a sunny place and be sure to follow the work order.
Recommended timing
Raspberries are planted at the end of autumn, when leaf fall has ended. 3-4 weeks before the cold snap, the plant will have time to take root and survive the winter. Work can be postponed until spring. Then they wait for the period when the snow has melted, but the leaves have not yet blossomed.
Advice! If raspberry seedlings are purchased in late autumn, they are dug into the plot and covered with sawdust. In spring, planting is carried out according to the standard scheme.
Choosing a suitable location
Raspberries of the Peresvet variety prefer sunny areas. In the shade, the shoots stretch out, the berries become smaller and lose their taste. Raspberries are grown on light fertile soils. Lowlands where moisture stagnates are not suitable for planting. At higher elevations, raspberries suffer from lack of water. Therefore, the crop is placed on flat ground or in the middle of a small slope.
Advice! Every 7-10 years they change the place where they grow raspberries. It is best to choose an area where legumes or cereals grew the year before.
Selection and preparation of planting material
Seedlings of the Peresvet variety are purchased from nurseries. Healthy and strong plants are selected from the assortment. Planting material is inspected to detect mold, cracks and other damage. If the raspberry roots are overdried, then they are immersed in clean water.
Landing algorithm
Regardless of the time of planting, the hole for the seedling is prepared in advance. If the work is carried out in the fall, then it is dug out in 3-4 weeks. For spring planting, preparation is carried out in the fall. This time is necessary for the soil to shrink.
Procedure for planting raspberries of the Peresvet variety:
- A hole measuring 40x40 cm is dug in the area to a depth of 60 cm. 50 cm are left between plants and 1.5 m between rows.
- To fill the pit, a substrate is required: fertile soil, 10 kg of compost, 90 g of superphosphate, 60 g of potassium salt.
- The hole is half filled with substrate, then a bucket of water is poured out and left to shrink.
- When the time comes for planting, the remaining substrate is poured into the hole to form a small hill.
- The plant is planted on a hill, its roots are straightened and the hole is completely filled.
- The soil is compacted and watered abundantly.
- A layer of peat and straw mulch is poured into the tree trunk circle.
Agricultural technology
To get a good harvest, you need to buy high-quality planting material. It is better to make a purchase in specialized nurseries.
When purchasing raspberries of the variety in question, you should pay attention to the following parameters:
- number of shoots - 1–2 pcs.;
- fruit buds - at least 3 pcs. at the base of the shoots;
- root system - should consist of 2-3 main roots, at least 20 cm long, and a large number of additional ones.
Selecting a location
An important step that ensures future high yields is the choice of area for raspberry growing. The area should be well illuminated by the sun, while being protected from northern winds.
Important! Every 10 years, the area allocated for raspberries needs to be changed. If you do not follow this rule, the berries will be much smaller, and the bushes will gradually begin to die off.
It is very important that the groundwater is no higher than 2 m, otherwise the roots will rot from waterlogging, but not lower than this level, since the plants will suffer from a lack of moisture.
Regarding the quality of the soil, the main thing is that it has neutral acidity, within the range of 5–7 pH. It is also important to ensure that suitable predecessors, which include phacelia, legumes, and grains, grow on the site before the raspberries.
Planting and care
It is better to plant raspberries in early spring, before the buds open. In the southern regions, manipulation can be carried out after leaf fall, in the fall. In any case, the soil in the selected area must be prepared six months before planting.
At this stage, it needs to be dug up to a depth of 30 cm and disinfected with 3% copper sulfate concentrate (1 liter per 1 m²). A week later, for repeated digging to the same depth, add 20 kg of manure, 10 kg of sand and 5 kg of peat + 20 g of superphosphate.
A month before planting, the soil must be dug up again, after adding 10 kg of compost and 1 kg of wood ash for each 1 m².
Familiarize yourself with the features of autumn planting raspberries.
Step by step planting process:
- Dig holes 40x40x60 cm, 50 cm apart and 1.5 m in a row.
- Mix the top part of the soil (20 cm) from each hole with 10 kg of compost, 90 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium salt.
- Fill the wells halfway with the resulting substrate, pour 10 liters of water into them, and leave for a day to shrink.
- Before planting, inspect the root system of the seedling, remove dried parts if necessary, powder the rhizome with a mixture of activated carbon and “Fundazol” (1:1 ratio).
- Form a mound in the planting hole, place the seedling on it, straighten the roots, and sprinkle them with soil.
- Pour 5 liters of water into the hole, when the liquid is absorbed and the soil settles, add more nutrient substrate and mulch with compost.
In the future, caring for the bushes is quite simple.
The main thing is to add moisture on time and pay attention to fertilizing. A standard watering schedule looks like this:
- May - 20 liters of water per 1 m²;
- June - 2 waterings at regular intervals of 20 liters of water per 1 m² of plantings;
- July - 5–7 days after harvesting;
- August - only in the absence of precipitation;
- October - 30 liters of water per 1 m², carried out immediately before preparing for winter.
If the area with vegetation is small, you can do ordinary watering at the root using a bucket or watering can. For large areas, it is better to organize a drip irrigation system, which will allow you to turn on the water at a convenient time and supply it in doses.
Important! The standard watering schedule is relevant when the amount of annual precipitation is insufficient. If there is enough natural moisture, then you should not additionally moisten the soil, but concentrate on fertilizing.
To organize a drip system, it is enough to purchase special equipment and install it on the site, taking into account the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Feeding should be done 4 times a season:
- The first is carried out in May, at the initial stage of plant growth, before flowering. During this period, organic matter is used - 100 g of chicken manure or 300 g of liquid mullein are added to 10 liters of water. Consumption of 10 liters of ready-made solution per 1 bush.
- At the beginning of flowering, a mineral composition is used - 20 g of potassium salt and 50 g of superphosphate are added to 10 liters of water. Consumption is also 10 liters.
- At the moment of formation of the ovary, make a compost-ash infusion - add 3 tbsp to 10 liters of water. compost and 1 tbsp. wood ash (can be replaced with 0.5 tbsp. dolomite flour). Consumption of the finished solution is 10 liters per bush.
- The last fertilizing is applied before the last watering, in October. 300 g of dry chicken manure per 1 m² of stem circle is embedded into the soil to a depth of 10 cm.
If at the time of applying liquid fertilizers the plants do not need to be moistened, all fertilizers can be applied dry in the same quantities, just embed them into the soil to a depth of 5–10 cm.
Important! After each natural or artificial moistening, as well as the application of fertilizers, the soil in the rows and around the plants must be loosened, simultaneously removing weeds, and then mulched with compost. This will retain moisture in the soil longer and protect the raspberry plant from the spread of diseases and pests.
Disease and pest control
The variety in question is rarely affected by fungal diseases - only with prolonged temperature changes and high humidity may signs of powdery mildew or serous spotting appear.
At the first signs of disease, you need to remove all infected parts of the plants, and then treat them with a mixture of “Fundazol” and wood ash (1:1). To prevent fungal diseases, at the beginning of the growing season, in May, spraying with Nitrafen is carried out according to the instructions.
Of the pests that most often settle on the variety:
- spider mite — eliminated by dusting the leaves and soil with tobacco dust;
- gall midge — will quickly leave the plantings after treatment with the Iskra preparation according to the instructions;
- weevil — bugs die en masse after spraying with “Fundazol” (10 g of powder per 10 liters of water, consumption 1.5 liters per 10 m²);
- aphid - dusting with wood ash will help protect against pests;
- stem fly - eliminated by spraying with wormwood infusion (add 1 kg of herb along with tops to 5 liters of boiling water, leave for 1 hour).
Trellis garter
To prevent raspberry bushes from falling to the ground under the weight of the fruit and their own, they need to be tied to a trellis. To build it, wooden beams 2.1 m high are driven in at the beginning and end of each row.
3 rows of strong wire are stretched between them at a height of 0.5 m, 1.5 m, 2 m. As the lateral shoots grow, they are tied in a horizontal position, and the main stems are fixed vertically.
Reproduction
Raspberries of the variety in question reproduce in one of 3 ways:
- By layering - manipulation is carried out in early spring. The tops of the shoots are bent to the soil, secured with metal staples, and sprinkled with a nutrient substrate. Throughout the season, the cuttings are watered and fertilized. The following spring, the rooted cuttings are separated from the mother plant.
- Cuttings - the material is harvested in early June. Cuttings 10 cm long are cut. They are first kept in water with the addition of a few drops of hydrogen peroxide, and when roots appear, they are planted in peat pots. In autumn or spring, plant in the ground.
- Root shoots - one-year-old shoots that have formed next to the mother plant, are separated in the spring, and planted in a previously prepared place.
Pruning and wintering
Pruning is carried out in spring and autumn. In the first case, weakened, diseased, and mechanically damaged branches are removed.
Did you know? Due to the high content of copper, which is included in most antidepressant medications, raspberries can easily replace them. So if you're on the verge of a breakdown, eat fresh berries.
In autumn, two-year-old fruit-bearing shoots are shortened into a ring, and from the one-year growths per 1 m², the 15 strongest ones are left, and they are shortened by 20 cm. All cuts are treated with wood ash.
In the southern regions, bushes are left to overwinter on trellises. In the middle zone, after pruning, all branches are carefully removed from the trellises and bent to the soil. To prevent them from spreading, they are fixed with a metal bracket. The resulting sheaf is covered with spruce branches.
Aftercare
Raspberries of the Peresvet variety are provided with moderate watering. If there is enough precipitation in the region, then no additional moisture is added. The bushes are watered only during drought, if it occurs during the period of flowering and ripening of berries. To keep moisture in the soil longer, it is mulched with straw or peat.
According to reviews, the Peresvet raspberry variety responds positively to fertilization. In spring, the bushes are fed with an infusion of mullein or bird droppings. During flowering and fruiting, add 50 g of superphosphate and potassium salt. Fertilizers are embedded in the soil before watering or dissolved in 10 liters of water and applied at the root.
Important! Raspberries grow well after feeding with wood ash and dolomite flour.
The Peresvet raspberry variety is tied to a support or trellis. This way the shoots and berries will receive even lighting. For tying, use rope or thin strips of fabric.
Raspberries are pruned every year in early spring. Be sure to remove weak, diseased and frozen branches. For 1 sq. m, 15 strong shoots are left, which are shortened by 20 cm. Pruning can be left until the fall, when the leaves have fallen.
Shelter for the winter protects Peresvet raspberries from cold weather and rodents. First, the plants are watered abundantly with settled water. Moistened soil freezes more slowly and protects against cold weather. The shoots are laid on the ground, hilled up, covered with humus or dry leaves. For shelter, choose agrofibre or burlap. The material is secured with metal arcs or staples.
Advantages and disadvantages
When growing Peresvet raspberries, gardeners share their observations and write reviews about the variety. Based on these truthful reviews, the main advantages and disadvantages of the plant can be grouped. The advantages of the Peresvet variety of raspberries are:
- Drought resistance. Raspberries "Peresvet" do not require abundant watering. On hot days, the berries do not bake in the sun, remaining juicy. But the variety is zoned for the Central regions of the Russian Federation, so in other regions it is still worth taking into account the requirements of the crop.
- Unpretentiousness to food. Raspberry "Peresvet" is not considered an intensive crop, and the application of drugs in large quantities is not required. Of course, if you leave the plant without fertilizing, then you need to adequately hope for a harvest of large and juicy berries. It is important to remember that the raspberry variety does not require intensive feeding for normal fruiting, but the crop should not be left completely without nutrition.
- Yield indicator. Satisfies even demanding farmers. Additionally, this includes the ability of the raspberry variety to tolerate transportation well and maintain the extraordinary taste and quality of the fruit.
- Frost resistance. Significantly exceeds the standard performance of large-fruited raspberry varieties.
- Versatility of use. Peresvet raspberries can not only be eaten fresh, but also canned, dried, and frozen.
Among the disadvantages of the variety, only one is noted - extended fruiting. But, if this is not entirely suitable for farmers, then summer residents are happy. They like to feast on the fruits for as long as possible.
Reproduction methods
Raspberries of the Peresvet variety are propagated in one of the following ways:
- By layering. In the spring, a strong shoot is selected, which is tilted and secured with metal brackets near the ground. The attachment point is covered with soil. The cuttings are watered and fed throughout the season. In the fall they are separated and transplanted to a new place.
- By cuttings. At the beginning of summer, shoots 10 cm long are cut off. They are rooted in peat cups, and in the fall they are transplanted to a permanent place.
- Root shoots. Young shoots are separated from the main bush and transferred to a new bed.
How to care for Peresvet bushes
The use of trellises significantly increases the yield of the Peresvet variety. Such cultivation allows the crop to receive the required amount of light, and it is easier for gardeners to normalize the number of shoots.
Watering and fertilizing the soil
Despite the fact that this raspberry variety has good drought resistance, regular irrigation (taking into account temperature) is necessary to obtain a high yield. Bushes need moisture most during the formation and development of fruits.
Abundant watering after harvesting and on the eve of pruning is considered mandatory. It can be combined with autumn fertilizing with fertilizers. Then add at least two buckets of water per 1 m2 of raspberry garden.
Although the raspberry variety tolerates nutritional deficiency well, for normal development and productive fruiting it requires timely feeding.
The first fertilization of the raspberry tree is carried out only three years after planting according to the following scheme:
- in early spring (at the beginning of the growing season) - nitrogen (urea, urea);
- on the eve of flowering - potassium;
- at the end of the season - phosphorus.
Often, gardeners increase raspberry yields through additional complex fertilizers.
Important! Covering Peresvet raspberries with rotted manure nourishes the raspberry plants and acts as mulch.
Trimming and tying to trellis
Standard autumn pruning involves removing weakened, damaged shoots and branches that bear fruit. Only healthy stems are left (about eight pieces per bush). This procedure, if performed correctly, serves to prevent the occurrence and spread of many diseases.
Important information! Pruning, in turn, is carried out to thin out the raspberry bushes so that they do not thicken. The yield largely depends on the latter.
Raspberry branches may fall to the ground under the weight of their own fruit. To prevent this from happening, they should be tied to a support. To do this, beams (at least 2.2 m) are driven in at both ends of each row, and three rows of wire are stretched proportionally. As the plant grows, the lateral shoots are attached horizontally, and the main stems are attached vertically.
Mulching, preparing for winter
Raspberry Peresvet tolerates winter cold well without shelter, but it is still better to worry about the latter, so as not to regret the dead bushes in the spring.
In mid-October, the area around the bushes is cleared: old mulch and fallen leaves are raked out. Then the raspberry tree is watered abundantly (at least 20 liters of water per bush), and a fresh mulch layer (a mixture of peat and sawdust) 20 cm high is laid.
The shoots are bent, fixed, and covered with agrofibre. After a snowfall, they throw snow on it. In winters with little snow, frames are built over the raspberry tree to lay bags of sawdust and dry leaves on top.
Possible diseases or pests
During the testing period, Raspberry Peresvet showed high resistance to almost all diseases of fungal and bacterial origin (including purple spot, anthracnose).
Despite the encouraging research results, gardeners recommend treating them with fungicides in the fall and spraying the bushes with a solution of potassium permanganate in the spring. The last measure is considered preventive against pests (mites, various aphids).
Diseases and pests, methods of control and prevention
In damp and cold weather, raspberries are susceptible to fungal diseases. The lesion is diagnosed by gray spots with a red border that appear on the leaves. To protect plantings from diseases, agricultural practices are followed. In the raspberry garden, shoots are thinned out and watering is rationed. Raspberry bushes are periodically treated with a solution of the drug Nitrafen. When signs of disease appear, the plantings are sprayed with copper-based products, for example, Bordeaux mixture.
Important! Treatment with chemicals is stopped 20 days before harvesting the berries.
Raspberries are susceptible to attack by spider mites, aphids, gall midges, weevils, and stem flies. Pests feed on leaves and fruits, slow down the development of the bush and reduce its productivity. Insecticides Iskra, Fundazol, Actellik help fight insects. The substances are diluted with water according to the instructions. The resulting solution is sprayed onto the raspberries over the leaves. Folk remedies are effective against pests: wood ash, infusions of wormwood, tomato tops, tobacco dust.
