Step-by-step guide to planting a closed-root apple tree in summer

To begin with, you should remember that summer planting of fruit trees is a necessary measure, possible only in emergency situations and should not be resorted to again.
If the question is, “when to plant an apple tree?”, then it is best to opt for autumn planting, or, in extreme cases, spring. From a technical point of view, summer transplantation is not much different from the other two options. Unless a larger amount of fertilizer is required for better survival of the seedling. So, first things first.

Features of apple tree seedlings with a closed root system

Seedlings with a closed root system (ZKS) are planting material whose roots are located in an earthen coma. This form of plants is popular, it is increasingly used by professional nurseries, and is also found in horticultural markets.

As a rule, planting material with a closed root system is grown in pots or containers. This is usually how it goes on sale. There are seedlings whose earthen ball is wrapped in a bag or bags.

We sell seedlings that were rooted in open ground or a greenhouse, and then simply dug up with soil adhering to the roots. This option is also considered a ZKS.

Advantages and disadvantages

Agronomists recommend planting material with a closed root system. It has several advantages over specimens with bare roots:

1. Due to the fact that all the roots are in an earthen coma, the risk of damage during transplantation is minimal. Even small roots that break if opened remain intact.
2. Such seedlings take root faster and take root in a new place. The plant experiences less stress during transplantation compared to OCS (exposed root system). The risk of death is minimal.
3. Planting material with ZKS is planted throughout the summer. Of course, if you carry out the procedure at the right time, the result will be better, but even if planted in the summer, the plant will not die.
4. The roots in the earthen coma do not dry out. There is no need to dig up a tree to sell - it is taken out of a pot with adhering soil. It is easier to buy high-quality viable planting material with ZKS than with OKS.
5. Planting trees with a closed root system is easier than with an open one.

Instances with a closed root system also have disadvantages that are important to consider when purchasing:

1. It is problematic to check how developed the root system is and what condition it is in, since the roots are hidden in the ground.
2. In the first year after planting, the development of the apple tree will be slow. This is due to the fact that the roots, accustomed to a cramped container and potting soil, begin to grow and creep outside the coma. Due to the sharp increase in space and changes in soil composition, growth slows down.
3. Often, seedlings with a closed root system are more expensive than those with an open root system and weigh more.

To reduce the stress of the plant during transplantation, the same fertilizers that were fed to the apple tree in the nursery are first applied to the ground. It is advisable to check the type of fertilizing with the seller.

Features of planting such trees

Planting trees with open and closed root systems is not very different, but there are still a few nuances:

1. Instances with bare roots require long-term processing. They are first washed in a solution of copper sulfate, then soaked for a day in a root formation stimulator. In the case of a closed root system, this is not done. The upper part of the plant is simply sprayed with a disinfectant, and the lower part is watered in a pot or after planting.
2. Saplings with an open root system are planted on an earthen mound, with roots evenly distributed around them. An apple tree in a coma of earth is simply placed in a hole.
3. After purchase, specimens with OKS are immediately prepared and planted. An apple tree with ZKS will quietly stand in a pot for a long time.

When is the best time to plant by season?

In addition to choosing a seedling, it is important to choose the time for planting - mistakes can be fatal for the tree. Many gardeners with considerable experience believe that it is better to go to the garden in the fall, but there are many opponents of autumn planting - the spring process has no less positive aspects. When choosing a time, you should pay attention to climatic conditions, so it is recommended to understand the features of seasonal planting in advance. This will help determine what timing is optimal for a particular region and when it is best to go to the garden with the purchased seedling.

in spring

If you weren’t able to plant a plant in the fall, don’t worry - there’s always the opportunity to catch up in the spring. Be sure to complete the work before May - at this time buds begin to bloom and flowering. If you are late, the plant will take a long time to take root.

Benefits of spring planting:

• there is no risk of freezing of the root system;
• establishment will be faster than in the fall - plants have to be planted in sun-warmed soil;
• With the onset of warmth, the plants will begin to grow.

There are also many disadvantages here. One of them is that during the winter the moisture manages to go to great depths, you will have to carry out regular watering, otherwise the root system will quickly dry out, which threatens the death of the young tree. Buying spring seedlings will also turn out to be much more expensive than autumn plants, and high-quality planting material is difficult to acquire - it is often taken apart by more efficient gardeners.

In summer

Summer planting is rare. Often only residents of cool regions, where spring begins much later than in warm regions, engage in such work. It is recommended to plant seedlings in a cozy place that is not exposed to strong drafts and direct sunlight - the survival rate will be significantly reduced. It should be taken into account that you will have to do frequent watering - even a slight drying out of the soil is enough to destroy the plants.

If you only need to transplant a young tree to a new location, it is better to do this in August. There is no longer any particular heat, so the plant will tolerate moving without any difficulties. Be sure to replant with a large lump of soil.

in autumn

The optimal time for planting young trees is October. Rooting usually takes up to 20 days - this is enough for the root system to get used to the new place and survive the winter without any difficulties before severe, stable frosts. It’s easy to help the plants - put a layer of mulch (sawdust, moss, spruce branches).

The advantages of autumn planting are obvious:

• during the cold season, the root system will have time to get used to it and, with the arrival of spring, will quickly begin to grow;
• Over the winter, the mulch will turn into a layer of nutrients that will penetrate into the soil with melt water;
• When planted in autumn, the plant’s immunity to subsequent frosts increases—you don’t have to worry about freezing.

Despite the hardiness of young plants, when frosts arrive, stop planting - even covering will not be enough to protect the trees from freezing. It is better to postpone planting until spring.

Landing dates

An apple tree with a closed root system is planted in spring, summer and autumn. Each option has advantages and disadvantages. The best results are achieved when planting at the optimal time.

Spring

Most gardeners prefer to start growing fruit trees in the spring.

Planting at this time of year has a number of advantages:

1. Rapid development of the root system. The tree is just beginning to awaken after wintering, sap flow is still slow, leaves have not yet formed. The plant's forces are directed not at the growth of green mass, but at the growth of roots.
2. Good soil composition. The soil has rested all winter, so in the spring it is saturated with nutrients, which has a positive effect on the condition of the planted plants.
3. Before the onset of cold weather, the tree has time to get used to the new conditions and get stronger. It will easily survive the upcoming winter.

There are no significant disadvantages in this case. It is important to choose the right time for planting: work is carried out when the soil has already warmed up, but the buds have not yet woken up. The month varies by region.

In the center of Russia (for example, in the Moscow region) this happens from the beginning to the end of April. In the southern regions, apple trees have been planted since the end of March. In the northern zone (in the Urals, Siberia) landing is possible from the end of April to the end of May.

Attention! To prevent the plant from dying due to night frosts or exposure to open sunlight, it is hardened off. To do this, the container with the apple tree is taken outside, gradually increasing the time spent there, bringing it to a whole day.

When purchasing, it is better to ask the seller about the conditions for growing the seedling. If it overwintered outside, with a closed root system, hardening off will not be necessary.

Summer

There are many disadvantages to summer planting and virtually no advantages. It is used if it is not possible to plant a plant at another time.

Disadvantages of summer planting:

1. The seedling is actively developing green mass. The development of the root system will occur slowly.
2. In summer the weather is usually dry, and the soil is already partially depleted. To compensate for this, you will have to put more effort into caring for the plantings.
3. The scorching sun negatively affects the condition of newly planted apple trees. Without proper precautions, the plant will die.

Is it possible to plant a tree in summer? Yes, but you will have to put in more effort and choose the right timing. You can plant the plant in June (preferably at the beginning) and the first few days of July.

From the second week of July until the end of August, it is better to refuse planting : at this time the plant spends energy on forming fruits. If you plant it, it will get sick and die.

Attention! If the spring was cold and protracted or the site is located in the northern region, at the beginning of June planting conditions will be close to spring.

In summer, planting is carried out only early in the morning or in the evening, when the sun is not active. On hot days, it is better to transfer the procedure to rainy or cloudy weather.

At first, the tree is shaded from the sun with a large sheet or other fabric. Spraying is carried out in the morning and evening. Make sure that the soil in the hole is always moist.

Autumn

This period is favorable for planting trees. Main advantages:

1. The growth of green mass has already slowed down. The plant will spend energy on developing the root system.
2. The soil is still warm, but the scorching sun is no longer there. Such conditions are comfortable for plants after planting.
3. The seedling will have to survive the winter. Trees planted in autumn are highly resistant to negative environmental factors and have good immunity.

If the rules for autumn planting are not followed, the plant will not survive the winter. To avoid this, it is important to plant it at least 14 days before the first frost.

The hole is dug deeper in the fall and a large layer of fertile soil is poured onto the bottom. The tree trunk circle must be covered with a thick layer of mulch. The trunk itself is wrapped with covering material or surrounded by a mesh filled with fallen leaves.

This is interesting:

A step-by-step guide for beginner gardeners: how to plant an apple tree in spring

How, when and with what to spray apple trees in the spring against pests and diseases

Can it be planted in summer?

You can plant an apple tree not only in autumn or spring, but also in summer. Well-developed two-year-old apple trees with a closed root system are suitable for this. In the southern regions and the central zone, summer planting is carried out at the beginning or end of June. Thanks to comfortable day and night temperatures and sufficient precipitation, the seedlings take root very quickly, and most of the shoots have time to ripen (wooden). Due to the intense heat and frequent long dry periods in the second half of summer, young trees planted in July or August do not take root well and most often die.

Apple tree planting dates by region

Depending on climatic conditions, the timing of planting apple trees in different regions of Russia differs.

Table 1. Dates for planting apple trees in various regions of Russia

See also Treatment of apple trees against codling moth: timing and preparations for spraying

Preparatory work

To grow a healthy, strong tree, it is important not only to plant it correctly and provide good care, but also to pay enough attention to the preparation for planting.

Selecting and preparing a seat

For the apple tree, choose a well-lit and ventilated area. It should be protected from the winds by the walls of buildings or tall trees planted on the north or north-west side. The apple tree should not be shaded.

Wetlands and areas with groundwater closer than 2 m are not suitable. If possible, the apple tree is planted on a hill. South, southwest, southeast sides are best suited.

The distance from fruit trees to fences and neighboring buildings is regulated in each area differently. Usually this is about 4 m. The distance to communications should not be less than 3 m, otherwise the roots of the plant will destroy them.

Apple trees grow best in loose, fertile soils (loam, sandstone, black soil). The soil should be slightly acidic and non-saline.

The site begins to be prepared at least 6 weeks before planting. The soil is cleared of debris, leaves, plant debris, dug up and leveled. Fertilizers are applied to the entire site or individually into planting holes.

The soil on the site is not always suitable for apple trees, but in most cases this can be corrected:

1. Close occurrence of groundwater . The problem is solved by choosing the right variety. If the depth is more than 1.5 m, semi-dwarf varieties are suitable; at 1–1.5 m - columnar and dwarf plants. Another option is to make a mound for the apple tree.
2. Sandy soils. Such soil is unable to retain nutrients and moisture. To level out this drawback, holes are dug with a depth and a diameter of 1.2 m. A 20 cm layer of clay is placed on the bottom, the rest of the space is filled with a mixture of black soil, rotted manure and peat in a ratio of 3:1:1. In sandy soils, the apple tree requires frequent feeding.
3. Clay soil. The soil promotes moisture stagnation. In such conditions, the diameter of the planting pit should be 1.2 m, and its depth should be 15–20 cm below the beginning of the clay layer. The bottom of the pit is covered with drainage (layer thickness - 15–20 cm). The rest of the volume is filled with a mixture of chernozem, humus, peat and river sand (3: 1: 1: 1.5).
4. Peat soil . Peat usually indicates close groundwater. It is better to check this parameter. High acidity, which is characteristic of such soil, is reduced by adding dry lime. To improve the composition of the soil, 4 m³ of river sand is added per 100 m². Fertilizers are applied: per 1 m² - 6 kg of humus, 200 g of superphosphate, 4 kg of ash.

Preparation and selection of planting material

First, it is important to learn how to choose quality seedlings:

1. The plant should not have spots, damage, cracks in the bark, growths, or other signs of diseases and pests. The branches should be flexible, not dry.
2. Age - no older than 2 years . Usually one-year-old planting material is used. To determine age, look at the number of branches. One-year-old seedlings do not have them, two-year-old seedlings have 3 branches.
3. Height - within 1–1.5 m. Tall apple trees will grow higher than dwarf ones. It is not recommended to take trees that are too tall or short: this indicates improper care.
4. The roots should not stick out from the earthen clod . It is important that the percentage of broken roots is minimal. If the earthen ball falls apart, it means that the tree was planted in a pot shortly before sale.
5. It is not recommended to choose foreign varieties, as they take root less well. It is better to choose zoned ones, adapted to the local climate.

Preparing a seedling consists of spraying its above-ground part with a solution of copper sulfate, watering it with a light pink solution of potassium permanganate and a growth stimulator.

Preparing a planting hole on different soils and applying fertilizers

An important rule is to prepare the holes, taking into account all the characteristics of the trees. The simplest and most popular planting scheme is in a row. The optimal distance between pits is three meters. The distance between rows is no more than six meters. This is enough to form a crown.

See also

Description and characteristics of the columnar apple tree variety Vasyugan, planting and careRead

The hole should be round in shape, with a diameter of up to 1 m. If the root system is too voluminous, you can enlarge the hole. The depth for standard varieties is about 65 cm, but if necessary, it is recommended to deepen the hole. Usually fertilizers, nutritional components, and drainage are placed in the hole - everything depends on the composition of the soil and the requirements of the planted variety.

On clay

Planting on clay soils has no special requirements. When planting, standard components are added to the pit:

• compost;
• a little sand;
• peat;
• garden turf

If the groundwater is too close to the surface, the drainage layer should reach 25-30 cm. Use broken bricks, ceramic or clay shards, and large crushed stone.

On the peat

Peat bogs are nutritious soil that almost does not require the addition of additional elements. We should not forget that too much beneficial substances for plants is also not recommended, so reduce the nutritional value of the soil. When planting, add coarse river sand and simple garden soil. It is recommended to put a little garden soil in the hole, after calcining it in the oven or pouring plenty of boiling water for disinfection.

On the sand

If planting is carried out in sandy soil, it is recommended to add a clay layer. It's easy to do:

1. Place drainage in the dug hole.
2. Pour in a small amount of sandstone.
3. Place a layer of clay.
4. Position the root system.
5. Cover with a mixture of sandstone, peat, compost, and garden soil.

When growing apple trees on sandstones, it should be taken into account that the main care process will be watering. In sunny weather, such soils become very hot, which is unsafe for plants, so be sure to apply a mulch layer.

On loam

When planting an apple tree on loam, be sure to lay a drainage layer (ceramic fragments, stones, wood trimmings).

To fill the root system, use the mixture:

• coarse sand;
• regular soil from the garden;
• compost;
• superphosphate (20-50 g)
• peat.

Water clay soils with caution, especially after planting - they actively absorb moisture. Even if the surface has dried, water remains at a shallow depth, so it is recommended to use mulch to allow drying to occur evenly.

Planting scheme

Apple trees are usually planted in rows. Well technology is used. The distance between plants depends on the variety. Tall varieties are planted at a distance of at least 5 m from each other; for medium-sized varieties, 3-4 m is enough. The frequency of planting dwarf varieties is 1.5–2 m, and columnar varieties - 0.5–1 m.

An apple tree cannot be planted in a place where the same crops have grown for the past 3 years. All trees whose fruits have seeds are considered good neighbors for the plant. You cannot plant an apple tree close to tall wild trees.

Main stages of planting

After preparing the holes, you can begin planting. The process is carried out in several stages, each of which must be strictly followed:

1. 3-5 hours before planting, immerse the root system of the plant in a container with warm water (it is recommended to add 5 g of potassium permanganate per 10 liters of water).
2. It is recommended to drive a support (up to 5 cm in diameter) into the prepared hole in advance; pre-burn the lower part - this will prevent rotting.
3. Pour the prepared soil mixture into a low mound into the hole.
4. Make a low (up to 5 cm) border in a circle, which will facilitate watering.
5. Dip the root system into the prepared mash (mix clay, water, sand), wait a quarter of an hour until the mixture dries.
6. Insert the apple tree into the hole, making sure that the root collar rises 3-5 cm above the soil surface.
7. Straighten the root system, placing the roots evenly over the mound.
8. Sprinkle the roots with the prepared mixture and tamp with your hands.
9. During the sprinkling process, gently shake the young tree - this will fill the voids between the roots.
10. Water abundantly. Introduce water in small portions, waiting for absorption.
11. Place a layer of mulch (chopped straw, sawdust, pine bark).

See also

Description of the apple tree variety Tatyana's Day, yield characteristics and growing regionsRead

Complete the planting by tying the plant. This will allow you not to worry about the condition of the tree in a strong wind - it will not be able to damage the trunk. At a height of 65-80 cm, cut off the main shoot, remove side branches if necessary.

How to properly plant an apple tree with a closed root system

It is easier to plant an apple tree with a closed root system than with an open one. It is only important to do the preparatory work properly and follow the step-by-step instructions.

Guide to planting an apple tree with a closed root system:

1. Dig a hole with a diameter of 1 m and a depth of 50 cm. Mix the soil removed from the hole with fertilizers.
2. Place a layer of drainage at the bottom of the hole and return some of the soil back. The result should be a hole with a diameter and depth equal to the parameters of the earthen clod.
3. Carefully remove the seedling with the earthen lump from the pot or container and place it in the hole so that the edges of the lump coincide with the size of the hole.
4. Fill the free space with fertile soil. Do not fill the soil level of the earthen coma in order to maintain the optimal position of the root collar.
5. Pour 2-3 buckets of water under the root of the plant.
6. Mulch the tree trunk circle. For greater stability, tie the seedling to a stake.

Possible mistakes

There are several errors that negatively affect the development of plants and often cause their death:

1. Dismantling an earthen clod . Some gardeners try to remove the soil and wash the root system of the seedlings in order to soak them in a growth stimulator. This decision causes stress to the plant and negatively affects the condition of the root system.
2. Removing a dry earthen lump from the pot. The dry seedling is difficult to remove from the pot and the lump crumbles. A few days before planting, it is important to water the soil in the container.
3. Burying the root collar. If it is not open, the plant will begin to hurt and die.

How to care after the procedure

Caring for young apple trees planted in spring consists of the following agrotechnical techniques:

• pruning - immediately after planting, the one-year-old seedling is shortened by 1/3 of its length. In two-year-olds, the lateral shoots, which are longer than the central conductor (trunk), are shortened;
• watering – in the spring after planting, the root system of a young tree should not experience a moisture deficit. To do this, 10-12 liters of water are poured into the tree trunk circle every day. During prolonged and frequent rains, watering is reduced. In summer and early autumn, the apple tree is watered abundantly only during prolonged dry periods and intense heat. In warm and moderately humid weather, the young tree is watered 1-2 times a week
• mulching - throughout the entire season, the tree trunk circle is carefully loosened and mulched with a 5-6 centimeter layer of peat, sawdust, dry leaves, and compost.
• pest and disease control using insecticides and trapping belts.

For the winter, the trunk of a young and strong apple tree is wrapped with insulation, burlap - this reduces the risk of damage to the bark by severe frosts and rodents.

Further care

In order for the tree to take root, it is important to properly care for it after planting. If the apple tree was planted in the fall, pruning is carried out .
Only the main trunk, 60 cm high, is left, making a cut above a healthy bud. For the first 2 months, the plant is watered weekly with plenty of water at room temperature. On hot and dry days, the amount of watering is increased to 3 times a week. The next day after moistening, the soil is loosened. In the first year, be sure to remove all weeds.

To prevent diseases and pests in spring and autumn, the tree is sprayed with a solution prepared from a bucket of water and 1 tbsp. l. copper sulfate, or fungicides.

With proper preparation and planting, you will not need to feed the plant for the first 3 years. Then fertilizers are applied 4 times a year.

Preparation

In summer, prepare the planting hole in advance so that the soil has time to settle.

The optimal pit size for summer planting is 60 cm deep and 50 cm wide.

The soil should be nutritious and not dry. Consider an irrigation system. Drip watering and irrigation are ideal for summer planting.

Planting material does not need to be stored. As soon as possible after purchase, plant the apple tree in a permanent place. Do not injure the roots! In hot summers it will be difficult for the plant to take root.

Apple tree diseases and their treatment

Apple trees, like other cultivated plants, have their own diseases. In order to be able to recognize a particular disease, it is necessary to study the relevant literature and be able to timely determine the onset of the disease and its nature. Let's look at the main diseases of apple trees and methods of treating them:

Scab

It is a fungal disease, spread by the wind, and is manifested by the appearance of green-brown spots on the first leaves, which turn black, and the apples become ugly and unattractive. Gradually, the leaves dry out and begin to fall off, and the fruits become unsuitable for food. To treat this disease, use early treatment of the apple tree with a 4% solution of Bordeaux mixture (before the buds begin to bloom) or 1% if the buds have already blossomed. As soon as the apple tree has finished blooming, spray with some fungicide (Topaz, Skor, Strobi, Infinito or Falcon), and after 14 days, spray again. During autumn cleaning, carefully remove all fallen leaves and dig up the tree trunk circle. The varieties most resistant to the disease are Pepin London or Pepin saffron, Antonovka, Jonathan.

Scab on an apple tree.

Rust

A fungal disease manifests itself in the summer by the appearance of rust-colored spots on the leaves, which quickly grow and form star-shaped growths below. After which the leaves begin to dry out and fall off, which weakens the apple tree’s resistance to the disease and disrupts its wintering. Typically, rust appears from closely growing juniper, which is often affected by it, so in early spring it is necessary to cut off all diseased branches of the juniper so that the fungi do not infect a nearby tree. Treatment is carried out by spraying with solutions of fungicides, such as Skor, Hom, Abiga-Pik, Bordeaux mixture or Topaz; treating the tree with preparations containing sulfur (Tiovit Jet, Cumulus, etc.) will be a good preventative measure.

Rust on apple tree leaves.

Powdery mildew

A very common and dangerous disease caused by fungi. This disease affects all parts of the plant - bark, leaves, buds, shoots and fruits. First, a layer of dirty white color is formed, which then becomes brown in color, with dark inclusions. Then the leaves begin to wither and dry out, the shoots stop growing, the apple tree does not bear fruit and dies. To prevent the appearance of a disease and to treat an existing one, treat with solutions of Bordeaux mixture (1%), Topaz, Skor or Strobi at the first young leaves. As soon as the tree has flowered, it is sprayed with Hom or copper oxychloride, and after 14 days, spray with a solution of copper sulfate using liquid soap (40 grams of sulfate + 20 grams of soap per 10 liters of water). In addition, you can spray three times with an interval of 14 days with a solution of colloidal sulfur (2 tablespoons per bucket of water).

Powdery mildew.

Common crayfish (European)

This disease can manifest itself in a chronic form when the tree bark and shoots are damaged, which can be caused by winter cold, during pruning or from the teeth of rodents. First, the bark begins to crack, and then growths form on the trunks, which is why the apple tree cannot receive adequate nutrition and dies. For treatment, it is necessary to very carefully cut out the diseased areas and cover the cut areas with garden varnish, having previously disinfected them with copper sulfate. If you need to protect the tree from rodents, you need to wrap it with corn or sorghum tops.

Common cancer.

Moniliosis or fruit rot

A fungal disease in which the fruits dry out and become mummified and smell like rotting, and the disease spreads very quickly. The apples become soft, the barrel turns brown and rots, gradually taking over the entire apple. For prevention and treatment in early spring, it is necessary to spray the tree with preparations that contain copper (4% Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate or copper oxychloride).

Fruit rot of apple tree.

Typically, this treatment is carried out before the buds open, after the tree has flowered and before the ovaries appear. In addition, it is useful to spray with iodine solution (10 ml of iodine per bucket of water). You can spray with Azophos or Horus. Do not put diseased fruits and fallen leaves into the compost pit! They must be collected and burned in a safe place; diseased fruits from the tree must also be picked and burned.

Phyllosticosis or brown spot

A fungal disease favored by warm and rainy summer days. It first appears as round brown spots on the leaves, which grow very quickly; the apples may look intact, but have no taste and become useless. For prevention and treatment, it is necessary to spray in the early period with a solution of Bordeaux mixture or iodine solution; a good effect is obtained by three times treatment with an interval of 14 days with the preparations, But and Tercel, they do not lose their properties even at low temperatures. It is necessary to destroy aphids in a timely manner, as they are the main carrier of the disease. In autumn, all fallen leaves are collected and burned in a safe place.

Apple tree phyllosticosis.

Cytosporosis

A fungal disease that occurs when tree bark cracks due to frostbite or burns, into which fungal spores penetrate. With this disease, already in early spring the bark swells, gum appears, but the bark cannot be separated from the trunk, and the disease is rapid in nature and quickly spreads throughout the tree. Preventive measures are taken already in the autumn, for this purpose the tree is pruned, the tree trunk is dug up and the tree is whitened so that the skeletal branches are covered, since cytosporosis is especially dangerous in the skeletal areas of the branches. As soon as the spring period begins, before the buds open, the apple tree is treated with preparations containing copper (Hom, Bordeaux mixture, copper oxychloride). All damaged bark must be carefully cut off, taking 1-2 centimeters of a healthy area and treating the cut areas with 4% copper sulfate. The disease cannot be started, as this will inevitably cause the tree to die.

Black cancer (Antonov fire)

A fungal disease that forms in places of cracks caused by frostbite or burns, and manifests itself at an early stage as small black dots that quickly grow into a solid black line; the bark begins to peel and easily lag behind the tree. For treatment, it is necessary to cut off all the noticeable areas with a sharpened and disinfected knife, grabbing a small healthy part, then thoroughly rinse the cut areas with a 2% solution of copper sulfate and generously cover them with garden varnish or oil paint. If the skeletal branches are damaged, the apple tree must be cut down and destroyed by burning, and the soil in the place where it grows should be well soaked with a solution of 4% copper sulfate.

Apple tree pests and ways to combat them

Apple trees in orchards have many pests - aphids, codling moths, leaf rollers, apple moths, hawthorn and many others. Under favorable weather conditions and the absence of protective measures, apple tree pests can multiply in such quantities that they destroy not only the current year’s crop, but also the fruit tree itself. The massive appearance of harmful insects and diseases does not occur by chance, but as a consequence of the lack of protective measures or their implementation untimely or incorrectly.

Green apple aphid

Very dangerous, quickly multiplying and sucking juices from all parts of the plant. The first signs of the appearance of aphids are the sudden curling and drying of leaves, especially young ones. Moreover, its eggs are able to quietly overwinter in weeds, leaves remaining in the winter, as well as in young shoots formed from the roots of the apple tree. In early spring, the larvae hatch and immediately begin to suck the juices from the plants (up to twenty generations of individuals can change over the summer). After two weeks, an adult aphid emerges from these larvae, which produces up to ninety individuals, and the next aphid already has wings, which allows it to easily move from tree to tree. Preventive measures include pouring a strong stream of water over the plant to wash the aphids to the ground; monitor the ant population in the area, as they are active carriers of aphids. In the autumn, destroy all weeds around the tree, remove all root shoots, collect the leaves and burn them. You can treat with an infusion of tobacco and soap (a pack of tobacco + two tablespoons of soap per bucket of water). If such methods do not save you from pests, you can spray with solutions of Fufan, Karbofos, Nitrofen, DNOC, Borneo, Aktara, Confidor, in compliance with all the instructions on the packaging of the preparations, taking care not to destroy beneficial insects. There are also biological products, such as Biotlin, Bitoxibacilin, Fitoverm, Lepidotsid, they have a shorter waiting period, but such drugs are harmless to people and beneficial insects. It can be a good idea to attract ladybugs, lacewings or syrphid flies by planting oats or alfalfa near the tree, which these insects love. When a sufficient number of them have been collected, the grass is removed, and beneficial insects settle on the apple trees in search of food.

Red apple mite

A dangerous pest that sucks plant sap from the leaves and buds of the tree, causing irreparable damage to the plant. The eggs, which look like small red eggs, remain on the forks of branches in winter, and in early spring they wake up and immediately begin their destructive action. For preventive purposes, the forks of young seedlings are poured with boiling water in early spring to kill mite eggs. Before the tree blooms, and after flowering, you can spray it with an infusion of onion peels (half a bucket of peels is poured with five liters of boiling water, let it brew for three days, filter), spray the trees early in the morning or late evening with an interval of ten to fourteen days. Of the chemical agents, treatments with the preparations Sunmite, Nisaran, Borneo, Nitrofen, and with the biological preparations Bitoxibacilin, Fitoverm are effective.

leaf roller

A small moth is a butterfly, reaches a length of no more than 1 centimeter, has dark gray wings with transverse lines on them. They lay eggs, from which caterpillars then emerge, having a yellowish-green color and a dark head; before pupating, the caterpillar becomes yellow. The leaf roller caterpillars eat the leaves from the inside, the leaf begins to curl into a tube and withers. In addition, they are not averse to eating the fruits of the tree, gnawing a hole in the apple and rendering it unusable. For preventive purposes, wormwood is planted; it can scare away the butterfly, but if the moth has already appeared, you can spray the plants with wormwood infusion (pour half a bucket of dry wormwood with ten liters of cold water, let it brew for 24 hours, boil, cool and strain). If you use chemicals, then drugs such as Kinmiks, Avant, Decis - Profi, Calypso, Inta - Vir will help. Plants are sprayed in such a way as to cover both nearby trees and shrubs.

Psyllium (Apple Sprout)

The pest is yellow-green or bright green, no more than 4 mm in length, has transparent wings, and acquires a reddish tint in autumn. The danger comes from its larvae, which are sucking insects, flat, orange in color, changing to a shade of green-blue as they grow. The larvae suck the juice from young leaves, gradually moving onto the buds, leaving behind traces in the form of spherical drops, which begin to stick together the leaves, buds and buds, and then a fungus develops in this place. The copperhead lays eggs at the end of the summer; if the weather is damp and cool, then it is most active. A very effective method is smoke treatment by setting fire to wet straw with tobacco powder laid on it and spread under each tree. The procedure is carried out in dry weather, in the absence of wind in the evening for at least three hours. Then all the soil around the trees is dug up, since the insects can start up again and climb onto the apple tree. Chemical drugs against the copperhead are Ditox, Vertimek, Kinmiks, Bi-58 KE, Aliot, Karbafos, Fufanon, Aktara.

Apple moth

It is a small butterfly, about two centimeters long, capable of laying about eighty larvae on the trunk bark of young trees, covering them with brown mucus. The larvae quietly overwinter, waking up in the spring, and begin to destroy the core of the leaves, bypassing the skin, which leads to the death of the leaves. Before the tree blooms, the larvae crawl along the surface and entangle the entire young shoot with a cobweb, as a result of which the trees remain completely bare and wrapped in cobwebs. The larva performs this action for forty days, then turns into a pupa, and after another thirty days an adult butterfly crawls out of the pupa, flies for two months, then lays eggs. For preventive purposes, in early spring, destroy young brown leaves in which insect larvae have settled, collect visible cocoons by hand and burn them. Spray with an infusion of a bag of ground red pepper, a pack of shag, 1 gram of potassium permanganate, about 0.5 kg of garlic or onion peel and 10 liters of water, infuse for three days, strain. Chemical agents include drugs such as Actellik, Kinmiks, Inta-Vir, biological drugs include Lepidocid, Bitoxibacillin, Iskra-Bio, Entobacterin-3.

Codling moth

It is a gray butterfly with wavy lines on the wings and a bronze spot and is one of the most dangerous insect pests of apple trees, laying eggs from which caterpillars hatch, up to 18 mm long and yellowish or pink in color. As soon as the caterpillar appears, it immediately gnaws away the pulp of the fruit, causing up to 85% loss of a good harvest. For prevention, plants such as tansy, wormwood, burdock or Lobel's hellebore are planted in tree trunk circles, which can scare away the butterfly; they attract birds to the garden, equipping birdhouses and feeders for them in winter; the birds feed on the larvae. Be sure to collect carrion with caterpillars every day, destroying it by burning. Carry out four treatments with an interval of 14 days with wormwood or pine infusion (two tablespoons of mustard are diluted in ten liters of warm water, add two tablespoons of wormwood or pine infusion, mix, filter). The chemicals used are Karachar, Kinfos, Tarzan, Twingo TS, Teya TS. An excellent way is to protect with trapping belts, which must be tied around tree trunks.

Apple flower beetle

It is a type of beetle - a weevil, up to five millimeters long, brownish in color with a thin proboscis, a very dangerous pest for apple trees, its larvae feed on buds and can completely destroy the crop. An adult insect overwinters in tree cracks, in fallen leaves, under the top layer of soil; in the spring, females lay eggs directly in tree buds, then larvae appear and devour the buds. After flowering, adult beetles emerge and settle throughout the area. For prevention, it is necessary to carry out a thorough inspection of the entire garden, checking the buds of the trees and destroying the beetles that have settled there, free the trees from the old bark, hang hunting belts and wrap the lower branches with burlap, soaking it in a solution of karbofos. Regularly check belts and burlap and destroy any flower beetles. Chemical agents are the drugs Tanrek, Iskra, Aktara, Fufanon - Nova; among biological drugs, Bitoxibacilin, Lepidocid, Fitoverm are effective.

Apple glass

A butterfly that resembles a wasp in appearance - a thin belly, transparent wings with bluish-black stripes; eggs are laid in cracks on trunks and branches in the summer. The larva begins to gnaw through the tunnels, leaving piles of brown color behind it, thereby killing healthy wood. For prevention, cut off the dead bark and disinfect the cut area with a 1% solution of copper sulfate; in early spring, coat the trunk of the apple tree with a mixture of clay, mullein and slaked lime. As for chemicals, use the drugs Kinmiks, Tanrek, Alatar, strictly following the instructions.

Bark beetles

Beetles that are pests of apple trees are Western gypsy bark beetle, fruit sapwood, and rugose sapwood. All of them overwinter under the bark, lay eggs under it and hatch into larvae that feed on the tree bark, causing irreparable damage to the tree. During the season, one individual lays up to one hundred eggs, choosing old or weakened trees. Getting rid of beetles is very difficult, so try to attract as many birds as possible to the garden to destroy the larvae. If you notice a hole from a bark beetle, inject the drug Confidor, Empire - 20 or Antizhuk into it using a syringe before the solution is completely absorbed by the tree, and seal the hole with garden varnish. If the tree bark is so damaged that it peels off in many places, the apple tree needs to be cut down, the stump uprooted and everything burned.

Apple scale

A small (up to 4 mm in length) insect that is curved in the shape of a comma and covered with a skin of tough consistency. The female lays eggs and dies, and they successfully winter under her; in early spring they begin to actively crawl onto the tree and suck the sap, causing enormous harm to the tree. To destroy the larvae, they are scraped from the tree bark with a metal brush; if the shoots are severely damaged, they have to be completely cut out and burned. You can spray the tree with a solution of soda ash and soap (dilute 20 grams of soda + 200 grams of soap in 10 liters of water). Chemical agents include Kinmiks, Karbofos, and Decis; biological agents include Fitoverm.

Apple scale.

Possible mistakes

Gardeners, even experienced ones, make most mistakes when planting apple trees. The main mistake often made by garden owners is exceeding the depth of the seedling. If the root collar is below the soil surface, the tree will develop and grow extremely slowly. The norm that is allowed is the elevation of the root collar by 3-6 cm above the soil. Some varieties grow well if the point is level with the soil surface, but it is better to find out this in advance, even when purchasing a seedling.

Another important mistake newbies make is using fertilizer too early. Mineral compositions can completely destroy the microflora, which contains bacteria beneficial to the plant. It is recommended to start fertilizing only after the tree begins to actively develop and produce young shoots.

An excess of organic matter is also often harmful to young apple trees. Unrotted manure is especially dangerous, causing disease. The ammonia released by fresh organic matter completely displaces oxygen from the voids between the roots, leading to death. Manure that has not had time to rot may contain pests that can destroy plants that have not had time to take root.

Beginning gardeners can make a mistake even when purchasing, purchasing young plants too early. Preserving them at home before planting is quite difficult - a stable cool temperature and high humidity are required.

The only way not to damage the planting material is to send it to the basement with a temperature of about 0 degrees. If this is not possible, it is better to go shopping just before planting - this will prevent unpleasant consequences. When purchasing, carefully inspect the plant material - there should be no rot, mold, or dry areas. Too dry roots should also be a concern - often even soaking is not enough to bring the seedling back to life.

Planting an apple tree is a process that, if carried out correctly, will certainly result in the active growth of the seedling. If you do not make mistakes in care, in just a few years the young tree will delight you with a harvest. We must not forget that the plant requires constant attention - watering, pruning, and fertilizing throughout the year. Gratitude will not be long in coming - the tree is sensitive to care.

Types of apple tree pruning

The branches of the apple tree must be periodically removed; for this purpose, five types of tree trimmings are used:

1. Formative

   With this pruning, the tree receives the necessary height and crown formation, and it must be carried out during the first years of the plant’s life. Then this basic look is simply maintained by careful trimming to fit, since with neglected forms the crown will have to be adjusted again, which is very difficult.

2. Regulatory

   With this pruning, you can regulate the tree's yield so as not to overload the branches and allow the tree to bear fruit regularly and correctly. If the process is left to chance, the fruits may break off branches or grow in large quantities, but with a smaller size and poor taste.

3. Sanitary

   This pruning removes dry, diseased, damaged shoots that thicken the crown. If sanitary pruning is not carried out, the fruits will not receive sufficient nutrition due to the tree containing unnecessary branches, and those branches that are diseased can infect good branches; dried branches will become a breeding ground for insect pests.

4. Restorative

   This pruning helps to restore and bring into the desired form a tree that has suffered any damage - mechanical, after frost or fire.

5. Rejuvenating

   This pruning is applicable to older trees in order to rejuvenate them and increase productivity; unnecessary branches are cut off so that young shoots capable of bearing fruit can grow in this place. This pruning is carried out once every five years.

Seedling pruning.
Tree pruning is carried out using the following tools:

• ordinary pruning shears - young and thin shoots are trimmed with it;
• pruning shears with a ratcheting mechanism - they are used to cut branches more than two mm thick;
• pruning shears with long handles (loppers) - they are used to trim branches at a height and in an inaccessible place;
• common saw - thick branches are cut with it;
• garden knife - used to clean fresh cuts.

All tools when pruning branches must be clean and treated so that viral diseases cannot enter the tree cuts. When cutting branches, juice is released, so it is necessary to lubricate the wound surface either with oil paint, or with garden mastic or varnish; branches up to one centimeter thick in diameter do not need to be lubricated. In the spring, pruning of the apple tree must be done before the buds swell, so that there is no active secretion of juice, otherwise the tree can be damaged. At this time, damaged or frozen branches are removed, and those branches that may be diseased or damaged by insect pests are also pruned. In addition, remove those branches that began to grow inside the crown and form an angle of less than 90 degrees with the trunk and adjust the number of shoots. In the summer, cracked or broken branches can be cut off, or diseased ones can be removed, and young shoots can simply be pinched so that the main branches receive enough nutrients and the crown is well ventilated. In the autumn period, those branches that could be damaged by weather conditions, the severity of the harvest, non-fruit-bearing shoots, or those that can shade fruit-bearing ones are pruned, as well as diseased and damaged by insects are removed.

You should not throw cut branches in the area near apple trees - they can become a source of infections and larvae of pests. It is better to burn them in a safe place protected from the wind.

Features in regions

When planting an apple tree, you should take into account not only the characteristics of the selected variety, but also the climatic features of the regions. This will allow you to grow a healthy tree without hassle, which will begin to bear fruit quickly. When purchasing, be sure to find out for which latitudes the selected plant is recommended. You should not plant heat-loving varieties in cold regions - you won’t be able to wait for the harvest.

Moscow region

When planning to grow an apple orchard in the Moscow region, you need to know just a few useful rules:

• It is better to plant in the fall (from September until the first cold snap);
• Do not plant young plants in November - there is a risk of destroying the apple trees;
• purchase for growing apple trees with early and medium ripening periods.

If you grow plants that bear fruit late, you will not always be able to get a harvest - the weather in the Moscow region is unpredictable, and winter may begin earlier than usual.

Siberia

The frosty winters for which Siberia is so famous are the main reason to plant young apple trees only in the spring. Autumn planting is not recommended - even the most resistant varieties will not be able to survive severe frosts if the root system has not had time to acclimatize.

It is better to choose frost-resistant varieties, otherwise you will have to cover the plants. Even such a precaution does not always help - the apple trees freeze completely until spring.

Ural

The unpredictable Ural climate, replete with frosty days that can occur in mid-autumn, is no less dangerous for apple trees. It is not recommended to plant before winter - it is better to postpone this process until the stable warmth of spring. If you had to plant young trees in the fall, be sure to take care of a warm cover. After snow falls, place a high snowdrift around the plant - this will partially prevent freezing.

How to choose the right seedling

Choosing a seedling variety is an important step in growing a tree. It is advisable to select varieties that are adapted to the climate of the middle zone or the weather conditions of your region.

• There is no need to buy an apple tree from overseas countries, as it is unlikely to take root.
• In order for fruit crops to bear fruit regularly and abundantly, it is necessary to purchase zoned varieties that are adapted to the climate of the region.
• It is best to purchase good seedlings from your nearest nursery or garden store.
• Also, when choosing planting material, you need to pay attention to the timing of fruiting. Summer varieties produce a harvest in late July-August, autumn varieties in late autumn.
• Ideal seedlings are one to two years old, they take root faster and are less susceptible to diseases.
• To determine the age of a tree, you need to look at the branches: annual plants do not have them, biennials have three branches growing at an angle of 45 or 90 degrees.
• An important feature of a good seedling is a healthy and white root system when cut. If it is gray, then the roots are frozen or rotten. Their length should reach 35 cm.
• Bad seedlings have various growths and swellings on the roots and leaves - this is a clear sign of a sick tree.

On a note! There are many varieties of apple trees, differing in taste, place of origin, disease resistance and climatic conditions. More recently, unique varieties of fruit crops were cultivated in Russia: “freshness”, “Venyaminovskoe”, “Rozhdestvenskoe”.

By fulfilling simple and minimal requirements for selecting seedlings, planting and caring for an apple tree, you are guaranteed to get a healthy, lush, fruit-bearing tree in the future, which will delight you with a good harvest. After successful planting of a seedling, it is important to perform the following actions: watering, pruning shoots, forming a crown as the fruit crop grows.

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