Is it necessary to remove the lower shoots of peppers and when should you not do this?

All summer residents want their pepper harvest to be rich. In this regard, a search begins on the Internet for non-standard agricultural techniques that will allow you to achieve the desired result without significant labor and monetary costs.

Peppers on the bush

Read on dacha6.ru:

Correctly and at the right time we tear off the lower leaves of cucumbers

How to feed peppers to make them bloom faster

Most often it is recommended to try to tear off at least the lower leaves and stepsons up to the fork. The technique is not new and is actively used on cucumbers and tomatoes, where it works well. But is it suitable for sweet peppers?

Should I trim the leaves of peppers?

The vegetable is grown in seedlings. At the initial stage of growth, the seedlings form one stem, then begin to branch randomly. The need for ordering is dictated by the basic requirements that pepper imposes. How to prune a vegetable depends on the variety and planting plan.

The crop belongs to the group of light-loving plants, so for ripening it is necessary to provide the maximum amount of sunlight. Pruning pepper leaves is one of the rules for caring for the crop. They begin to trim the leaves at the stage when the plant gains strength and begins to grow. This technique helps to get a strong bush, increase the number of fruits, and ensure a good harvest.

Why trim

Many novice gardeners are interested in whether they trim the leaves of peppers. Doubts arise from the fact that the development of the crop differs from the development of tomatoes, which require formative processing. Peppers are trimmed for several reasons. The lower leaves that come into contact with the soil surface must be removed. Wet soil causes the plates to rot, which can lead to infection of the upper part of the plant.

At the same time, removing the lower shoots helps open air access to the main stem, which has a positive effect on growth. Thinning the dense plates on the top allows for better light transmission. Many varieties require targeted formative removal. The number and size of the fruits formed depends on this. One of the processing options is pinching the top. Stopping growth in height helps to concentrate the plant’s energy on fruit formation.

Attention! Yellowed, dying plates, which often form from below, must be removed.

Is it possible to cut off

There is no clear answer to the question whether it is possible to pick off the leaves of peppers or whether it is better to trim the leaves. Experienced gardeners do what is most convenient. Leaf pruning is done with sharp garden pruners or scissors. If it is more convenient to tear off the leaf, then you need to do it with a quick, precise movement so as not to damage the skin.

Value for different varieties

There are many different varieties of peppers, differing in the size of the bushes. And if low-growing varieties do not have too lush green mass, then tall ones can reach a height of 2 m and have dense foliage.

The need for plant formation is determined depending on its height:

• low-growing varieties with a height of up to 50 cm can be grown without formation, provided that they are not planted too close to each other. If the plants are planted densely enough, then you need to trim off excess shoots and leaves to improve air access to the roots and provide lighting to all ripening fruits;
• Medium-sized varieties of pepper grow to a height of about 1 m and require pruning of the lower barren shoots, which needlessly draw juices from the plant. It is also recommended to get rid of some leaves so that the thick green crown does not shade the fruit from the light;
• tall varieties of bell pepper grow up to 2 m and require mandatory shaping. They need to be grown in 1–3 stems, promptly removing stepsons, excess shoots and leaves, as well as stopping the growth of the main branches at the stage of ripening of the formed fruits.

Tall varieties of peppers cannot be grown without forming the crown of the bush and tying up each branch. Medium-sized varieties can be satisfied by removing the lower shoots and barren branches.

This saves the plant from the unproductive costs of maintaining them, and also improves the illumination and ventilation of all elements of the bush.

If the variety is undersized, and especially dwarf, then it is not worth cultivating it at all. Unless the seedlings are planted too densely. This entails an increased density of tops, fraught with plant diseases and a slowdown in their development. In this case, willy-nilly, you will have to start forming the crown of the bushes, otherwise things will not go well with the harvest.

How often and when is the best time to prune?

Traditional cultivation of the crop involves planting seedlings in a greenhouse or in open ground. At the stage of planting shoots, shaping includes the removal of excess shoots. A healthy sprout should have 5-6 shoots when it moves into open ground. You can remove the fragile lower shoots from one side, but you should not remove the tops, as this will stunt growth.

how to trim leaves from peppers

Leaf pruning of peppers during the growing season is divided into 2 types: formative and technically necessary. After planting, the plant is inspected every week. There are no exact dates for pruning. It is important to promptly remove stepsons that are capable of forming a separate branch, and remove those shoots that block access to air and light.

In the greenhouse, it is necessary to carefully ensure that the upper part does not become too thick; to do this, remove excess side shoots and purposefully remove the lower leaves of the pepper. Thickening leads to the formation of small fruits and reduced taste.

Caring for peppers during the growing season

Garter of peppers

Forming peppers

Alas, in the conditions of the Urals and similar ones, one cannot count on a harvest from numerous stepsons. Therefore, the lower weak stepsons should be removed, and the sooner the better. Some of the strong upper stepsons need to be left, but their number depends on the circumstances: the more light space and the longer until the end of the season, the more stepsons can be left. Be extremely careful when gartering peppers, taking into account the extraordinary fragility of its shoots. One wrong move and part of the beautiful bush will end up in your hands.

Trimming leaves and parts of pepper shoots

Unfortunately, despite all precautions, every year some of the plant shoots, due to the density of planting and the appearance of condensation on the leaves, become sick with gray rot. Diseased fruits and parts of shoots must be carefully cut out to a healthy place and sent to the fire.

Feeding peppers

All the pepper hybrids I named above belong to the so-called intensive type hybrids. This means that they require fractional application of increased doses of fertilizers and at the same time delight us with a huge harvest. Fractional application of fertilizers is carried out through a series of continuous fertilizing. The first four weeks after planting, plants usually have enough fertilizer applied to the soil in advance. But then, after a month, you should start regular feeding, and not be lazy. A delay with just one potassium fertilizing can lead to some of the flowers turning yellow and falling off. At first I feed once every two weeks, and starting from mid-June I start feeding once a week. So, here is an approximate feeding scheme.

When feeding with sodium sulfate, you need to remember that in sunny weather less of it is required, and in damp and cloudy weather - more. Therefore, it is better to increase the dose of fertilizer in bad weather: instead of 1 tablespoon, put 2 tablespoons in a bucket

The first is to feed with azofoska or any other complex fertilizer, simply scattering it in handfuls between the bushes; then you should water the soil with slurry;

• second - scatter superphosphate and ash;
• third - fertilize with potassium sulfate (pre-dilute 1 tablespoon of fertilizer in 1 bucket of water);
• fourth - fertilize with magbor fertilizer (pre-dilute 1 tablespoon of fertilizer in 1 bucket of water);
• fifth - feed with azophoska or any other complex fertilizer, simply scattering it in handfuls between the bushes; water the soil with slurry.

Fertilizers potassium sulfate and magbor can be mixed in one bucket of water

Then every week you should alternately fertilize with ash or potassium sulfate (after diluting 1 tablespoon of fertilizer in 1 bucket of water). And once every three weeks, add magbor fertilizer to this mixture (after diluting 1 tablespoon of fertilizer in 1 bucket of water). I usually do not carry out additional fertilizing with phosphorus in our conditions. In addition, it is very good to carry out foliar feeding throughout the entire growing season of plants. From my point of view (I take into account its price and effectiveness), I consider the drug “New Ideal” (1 cap per 1 liter of water) to be the best for this purpose. It is worth noting that you can do without tedious fertilizing if you switch to long-acting fertilizers instead of traditional fertilizers. An example of such fertilizers are APIONs produced in Russia. When planting pepper seedlings, it is enough to put one packet of fertilizer (grade 30 is enough) under each bush (to a depth of 10 cm), and then all season instead of fertilizing you can only water the pepper, and the harvest will be excellent. I switched to this type of fertilizer two years ago and I couldn’t be happier, because everything has become much simpler.

Which varieties to prune

Which leaves should be plucked from a pepper if it belongs to a low-growing variety? This question arises due to the characteristics of varietal varieties. Low varieties are characterized by low shoot formation activity. The vegetable grows quickly, reaching its maximum length in a few weeks, so it does not require shaping. But for low-growing varieties, there is a rule that requires the timely removal of the lower shoots in contact with the ground.

The following varieties do not require formation:

• "Alesha Popovich";
• "Barguzin";
• "Bagration";
• "Bogatyr";
• "Good guy";
• "Zodiac";
• "Ilya Muromets";
• hybrids: “Claudio”, “Maxim”, “Mercury”.

When designating hybrid varieties, the alphanumeric combination “F-1” is often added to the main name. Tall varieties require formation from the moment of planting seedlings to the beginning of harvesting. Tall varieties include plants that stretch up to 1.2 meters. For example, “Orange Miracle”, “Cockatoo”, “Hercules”, “Apollo”.

Is it always necessary to form sweet peppers?

Experienced vegetable growers consider the formation of sweet peppers a necessary technique for increasing the yield and size of the fruit. Beginners practically do not use it, believing that even without the formation of a bush, pepper will produce a large harvest if heat, lighting, watering and fertilizing are provided.

For vegetable growers who ignore the formation of a sweet pepper bush, breeders offer varieties and hybrids that can be grown without this technique. The following low-growing, weakly branching pepper varieties and hybrids do not require cultivation.

• Low-branching pepper varieties : Florida, Barguzin, Topolin, Zodiac, Alyosha Popovich, Bagration, Lumina (Belozerka), Dobryak, Victoria, Bogatyr, Ilya Muromets, Lastochka, Gift of Moldova, Dobrynya Nikitich and others.
• Weakly branching pepper hybrids : Pinocchio F1, Claudio F1, Othello F1, Goodwin F1, Gemini F1, Maxim F1, Mercury F1 and others.

For low-growing bushes (40-65 cm) of pepper, it is enough to cut out weak, sterile shoots that grow inward. Tall ones form a large vegetative mass, which takes away the nutrients the plants need for fruit development. Let's try to figure out what opportunities the gardener is missing by not using the technique of forming tall varieties of sweet pepper, which significantly increases the yield of the vitamin product.

Tall peppers include the bushes of which reach a height of 100–200 cm. The densely growing above-ground mass creates ideal conditions for the development of diseases and pests. They must be thinned out to improve ventilation, lighting, and nutrition. Therefore, all tall varieties and hybrids of peppers require the formation of bushes.

Forming a pepper is not a one-time process of cutting off vegetative shoots or pinching leaves. Formation includes several techniques and is carried out in several stages.

Thickened vegetable pepper bush. © millworkman

The need to trim leaves from peppers

Pruning the leaves of peppers begins after the seedlings are moved to a permanent place of growth. Growing certain varieties is possible in a greenhouse, on a balcony or veranda. Low-growing varieties are usually grown indoors; tall plants that require staking and pruning grow well in open ground.

Attention! Formative treatment is carried out only on healthy plants. If the crop is infected, then spraying is carried out first, and pruning is planned for the period when the plant adapts after recovery.

In the greenhouse

A greenhouse allows you to get early harvests, but caring for greenhouse vegetables requires constant attention and control. Plants often do not have enough space, so planting must be properly planned. The question of how to trim peppers in a greenhouse can be answered differently, taking into account each specific case.

Greenhouse vegetables need light and increased air flow, so all shoots that block access to the sun for the formed fruits are removed. Greenhouse vegetables are planted at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other. Each of them is formed with two main branches, which allows you to get a neat, moderately branched plant.

In open ground in a garden bed

Not every experienced gardener knows how to prune peppers in garden beds. To do it correctly and avoid mistakes, you need to stick to the plan. The traditional formation scheme involves growing a plant in 2 branches. This technique helps maintain stability, prevents excessive branching, and helps rationally distribute the fruits along the entire length of the plant. The formation of 2 stems is carried out before flowering begins.

For tall varieties, growing with three stems is permissible. It should be borne in mind that the fruits will be smaller in size. This technique is justified when owners are interested in obtaining a large number of small-sized fruits.

Galina Kizima's opinion

At the same time, in the newspaper “Gardener” I read a different opinion from Galina Kizima. She recommends not picking off the leaves before the plant enters the fruiting phase, but immediately after gradually removing all the stepsons and lower leaves located below the 1st fork of the main stem. In the very first fork, the gardener advises leaving only 2 branches, trimming the rest according to the principle: 1 leaf - 1 fruit.

When branching (second branching) 2 branches left, Kizima advises cutting out all the branches growing towards the inside of the bush.

Also from her recommendations:

• plucking out excess buds so that the bush is optimally loaded;
• optimal planting density to obtain maximum yield - up to 8 bushes per 1 m2;
• Topping at the end of July - the first half of August (it is necessary to tear off all the tops and buds on the bushes, so that the bushes direct all their efforts to growing existing fruits, and not to forming new ones, which will require at least another month to develop).

Do you plant your greenhouse peppers or leave everything as is? Share your opinion in the comments.

© Ilya Vladimirovich | 2018-07-28 That same gardener

How to trim peppers correctly

To learn how to properly work with vegetable crops to get a good harvest, you can watch a training video or scroll through a photo. Popular YouTube blogger Yulia Minaeva shows how to grow vegetables by her own example. From the videos you can learn how to prune a bush correctly so as not to provoke infection and get a harvest.

Regularity of pruning

Formation begins after planting the seedlings, then shoots are removed to grow 2 stems. The following procedures are carried out as needed. Shoot growth may vary depending on climatic conditions. After the rains in the open ground, the bushes will begin to actively gain green mass. In dry weather, the plant slows down its growth and does not branch for some time until the weather settles. Greenhouse bushes do not depend on weather conditions and require constant attention and control. You cannot remove more than 2-3 shoots in one session.

What and how to prune shoots

Tools that are convenient for removing shoots must be sharp. The easiest way to trim a leaf is with small, sharp garden shears. The blades of the pruning shears are disinfected in advance with alcohol or any other antiseptic. Shoots are removed to a level of 1-1.5 cm.

Reference! The knife does not allow you to quickly cut the shoot without damaging the stem, so it is not recommended to use it. The use of dirty, rusty tools can provoke infection with infectious diseases, so it is recommended to treat them with antiseptic solutions in advance.

How to thin out foliage

Thinning of the green mass is carried out in order to provide access to light and air. At the stage when the stem is branched into 2 parts, thinning includes the removal of barren shoots, harvesting stepsons or empty ovaries. For those bushes that form three branches, thinning is carried out more often. A large amount of green mass is formed on three branches, which can obscure the light of future fruits.

Main problems when growing peppers

There are two important things to keep in mind when growing peppers.

1. Pepper plants are demanding of soil moisture. This culture does not tolerate even short-term drying out. Therefore, you have to water the pepper 1-2 times a week with very warm water (25.30°C), spending 1-2 liters of water per plant. At the same time, waterlogging of both soil and air is unacceptable. With increased air humidity, pollen becomes unviable. As a result, neither pollination nor fruit set occurs. Therefore, on the one hand, it is advisable to water in the morning, i.e. before the flowers bloom. On the other hand, it is extremely important to ensure the maximum possible ventilation of the greenhouse. Condensation on plants is unacceptable! This needs to be monitored extremely carefully.

2. Very often, at the moment of fruiting, peppers become a victim of aphids. You understand very well that it is no longer possible to spray with any chemicals, for example, the well-known “Intavir”. The drug “Fitoverm” can come to the rescue. True, it may take up to three sprayings to finally get rid of this malicious pest.

Why don't fruits set?

There are many reasons why pollen turns out to be sterile and, as a result, pollination of flowers does not occur. I will name the main ones:

• sudden changes in temperature;
• rainy and cold weather;
• lack of light;
• lack of potassium or boron;
• the presence of condensation, leading to an increase in pollen humidity;
• temperature above 30°C, leading to complete sterility of pollen.

Naturally, a legitimate question arises: what to do? Pepper hybrids growing on a large layer of biofuel, the soil under which is covered with a large layer of mulch in the form of leaf litter, and also treated with the drug “Immunocytophyte” and growth stimulants, cease to react sharply to the first two factors. Although, of course, there is no question of not closing the greenhouse with pepper one night. In this matter it is better to be safe. The night should always be warm. The presence of a third factor can completely deprive you of your harvest. There is only one moral: choose the most illuminated area on the site for the greenhouse with pepper. As for the fourth factor, everything is in your hands. If you feed regularly or switch to APIONs, you will not have the corresponding problems. The negative impact of the fifth factor can only be partially reduced by intensively ventilating the greenhouse every day. Naturally, during rain you should have only one side open, and in cold windy weather the film panel should be opened halfway.

The last factor, alas, we cannot change.

Preparations "Gibbersib" and "Ovary" will ensure almost complete pollination in any weather conditions

However, there is another way to dramatically increase the degree of fruit set: regularly spray the plants with appropriate preparations. Starting from the moment of flowering of pepper, it is necessary to spray once every two weeks with a fruit formation stimulator (preparations “Gibbersib”, “Ovary” or “Bud”).

Let's talk about the mood of plants

Pepper, as everyone knows, is clearly a heat-loving crop. Being in our, frankly, unfavorable conditions, pepper plants experience constant stress, which reduces their vitality and makes them more susceptible to all kinds of diseases. In other words, the “mood” of the plants is deteriorating, despite all our efforts (remember yourself when it’s slushy outside, and you still have a nasty flu attached to you, etc.). The only way is to relieve stress, which is carried out by spraying plants with special stimulants. There are a lot of stimulants today. They have a different spectrum of action, but, one way or another, they lead to an increase in the mood of plants, and as a result to their faster development and intensive fruiting.

What drugs to choose to stimulate the development of peppers?

1. In order to stimulate the development of plants, it is worth spraying them with growth stimulants approximately 2-3 times per season: “Epin” or “Silk”.

2. In addition, to shorten ripening time, increase plant resistance to disease and increase growth energy, it is worth using humates both in root and foliar fertilizers, either in their pure form or as part of used fertilizers.

How to trim leaves from peppers

In areas where pepper grows, pruning of leaves is carried out in the early morning. Within a day, the resulting wound has time to heal with a protective film. To prevent excessive growth of the bush, it is necessary to use step-by-step instructions.

Until the ovary

The important point is to detect and remove the first root flower. It forms on the part of the fork between two stems. If it is not removed, the bush will grow into 3 branches. In addition, weak or diseased shoots located below must be removed.

During flowering

When peppers bloom, it is necessary to remove all empty shoots. They appear below the next branching point. On a branch that forms several closely spaced ovaries, you can remove the lower and upper bud. The average ovary will produce a full-fledged fruit that will ripen successfully without additional competition for nutrients.

Before fruit ripening

At this time, pinching is done. Pinching or pinching means removing the tip. This helps stop growth. The stem begins to concentrate its forces on the ripening of the fruit.

Trimming scheme

A plan that involves increasing the fruiting of the crop is drawn up in advance. The traditional option is the formation in the shape of the letter “V”. For tall varieties with a height of more than 1.2 m, the presence of a third fruit-forming stem is allowed. With traditional cultivation in 2 stems, the first 2 shoots, which are formed by seedlings, are the skeleton of the future bush.

After planting seedlings, it is important to prevent the fork from producing new shoots. After several weeks of careful observation and control of shoot formation, the fork between the two stems will stop sprouting, forming a dense scar in this place.

How to remove stepsons

Stepchildren are called shoots that are formed in the axillary areas formed between the main stem and the next plate. Stepchildren take away strength from the bush, which can be redirected to the formation of fruit ovaries, so removing stepchildren is especially important before the fruits begin to turn red. Pruning is carried out according to the same scheme as pruning a tomato.

In both cases, it is customary to get rid of stepchildren by pinching. To do this, the shoot is pinched between the thumb and index finger, then quickly torn off using a nail. Stepchildren are removed at a height of 1 cm from the base of the stem.

How many leaves to trim

Pepper care: pruning leaves and removing shoots are procedures that continue throughout the entire growing season. In young plants, more than 2-3 specimens should not be removed at a time. Dense-leaved adult bushes can withstand the removal of 4-5 pieces in one procedure.

When is it harmful to pick off the lower leaves?

remove the leaves up to the first fork of the pepper, shape it like tomatoes

Here everything is like with tomatoes - all the leaves up to the first fork of the stem must be torn off or trimmed with pruning shears. In this case, the bases of the bushes will be blown by the wind, there will be no stagnation of moisture, which means there is less risk that the pepper will be affected by fungal diseases.

Although removing the lower leaves is one way to make the plant more fruitful, this method is not a panacea and in some cases can do more harm than good.

So, leaves should not be picked if:

• the peppers were planted one per hole - in this case, after removing the lower leaves, the bush will not provide enough shade, and the moisture will evaporate too quickly, which will lead to drying out of the soil and reduced yield;
• pepper is grown in hot and dry weather conditions, for example, in the southern regions of the country. Then the more leaves there are, the better the plant will be, casting a shadow, to retain moisture;
• if the peppers are affected by any disease, especially of an infectious nature.

However, it is worth noting that even if leaf removal is not recommended, it will still have to be done in the following cases:

• if the leaves have turned yellow;
• if the lower leaves of the bush come into contact with the ground.

Thus, when planting tightly, it is necessary to trim the lower leaves of peppers, as this helps improve fruitfulness and reduces the risk of fungal diseases. However, this method is not suitable for very hot regions where plants lack moisture and need good shade to maintain it.

What is the difference between trimming leaves of sweet and bitter peppers?

The bushes of bitter and sweet bell peppers are similar in appearance. Small, sharp fruits are formed on branched, low bushes if they are well cared for. Low bushes do not require shaping treatment. They independently branch into several stems without interfering with each other. The only condition for growth is to remove the lower shoots if they touch the ground. Sweet Bulgarian varieties require formation and removal of empty shoots to ensure maximum fruit production on formed branches.

What fertilizer do peppers need?

Nitrogen and magnesium are added after about 2 weeks, when the transplanted bushes have become stronger. Potassium and nitrogen fertilizer for peppers (complex) is applied during the period of abundant flowering. Fertilizing with calcium and potassium is used at the beginning of fruit formation.

Interesting materials:

How to add a post to Stories with a background? How to add Restream chat to obs? How to add a site to Opera's bookmarks bar? How to add emoticons on Instagram? How to add SMS mts? How to add a to-do list to your desktop? How to add your permission in Windows 10? How to add a product to the community? How to add products to the VK menu? How to add a Kaspersky device?

Why shape the pepper?

The formation of a certain type of crown in pepper bushes contributes to:

• increasing the strength and stability of the plant, which is especially important for dense plantings and frequent opening of the greenhouse, when the risk of damage to the bushes from gusts of wind increases;
• cleansing the plant of shoots that do not produce ovaries, but suck the juices from the plant;
• facilitating access to sunlight for all green parts of the bush;
• uniform fruit ripening;
• improving ventilation of the root system;
• reducing the load on the bush (due to an excessive number of ovaries, the stem may break and the plant will die);
• increasing the aesthetic appeal of the plant.

By cutting off excess green mass, the vegetable grower stimulates the pepper to channel all its vital juices into the formation of large and sweet fruits.

Manual formation of bushes allows peppers to ripen at the same time, which is of no small importance for a gardener growing vegetables for himself. On an industrial scale, pruning bushes helps to obtain a more presentable harvest that is in good demand among buyers. Peppers grown without outside intervention will have fruits of different sizes, and they will also ripen at different times.

Propagation of hot peppers

Hot peppers reproduce not only by seeds. By the way, the seeds remain viable for several years. With proper storage of seeds, you can provide your family with a good harvest for 3-4 years.

Hot peppers can also be propagated by cuttings. Cut off several young shoots with a sharp knife and place them in a glass of water. When the pepper takes root, it can be transplanted into a pot with fresh substrate. After 1.5 months, the new bush will delight you with its flowering.

How to feed peppers for growth using folk remedies?

If you do not like to use ready-made mineral fertilizers, feed the peppers for growth with a solution of mullein, bird droppings or Green fertilizer. The infusion of mullein and herbs is diluted with water 1:10 before use, and the infusion of bird droppings is diluted 1:20.

Interesting materials:

How long can toast be stored? How long can Trifles be stored? How long can curd buttercream be stored? How long can you store cream cheese in the refrigerator? How long can you store pumpkin in the cellar? How long can UHT cream be stored? How long can you keep homemade eggs in the refrigerator? How long can yeast dough be stored in the refrigerator? How long can you keep broccoli in the refrigerator? How long can you keep mashed potatoes in the refrigerator?

Aftercare

In order for the farmer to have a good harvest of sweet peppers at the end of the season, in addition to proper formation, the bushes need to be provided with the necessary care.

The basic rules for caring for peppers in a greenhouse are listed below:

• watering as needed, but at least once every 5–7 days. Water for irrigation should be warm, about 2 liters are consumed per plant;
• ventilation of the greenhouse to reduce humidity levels and prevent condensation;
• feeding plants with mineral fertilizer complexes after transplanting seedlings, before flowering and at the stage of fruit formation;
• loosening the top layer of soil around the bushes to improve air permeability;
• protecting plants from direct sunlight in hot weather (above 30°C);
• tying side shoots to installed supports to balance the plants.

Important! In hot weather, pepper bushes need to be watered at least 2 times a week.

Formation methods with step-by-step instructions

Under ideal conditions in a polycarbonate greenhouse, pepper bushes begin to grow actively. In order not to overload them with a large green mass and at the same time not to cause them stress by excessive pruning, you need to form the bush correctly. Most often, peppers in a greenhouse are grown with 1, 2 or 3 stems. The method of formation depends on how many plants are placed in the greenhouse.

In one stem

This method of formation is used when the plants are planted very close to each other and there is not enough space in the greenhouse to grow voluminous bushes.

Step-by-step instructions for forming a pepper into one stem are presented below:

1. The formation of a bush begins at the stage when the main stem of the plant branches into several side shoots.
2. Remove any side shoots that begin to form as offshoots from the main stem. You should end up with a straight bush with one straight stem on which leaves and flower clusters grow.
3. If during the process of plant growth, forks form again on the main stem, then they are carefully cut off, leaving only the flower bud and 1-2 leaves above it.
4. When 10–12 fruits form on the bush, you need to pinch out the top growing point on the stem. This will ensure the ripening of the formed fruits, and also stop the growth of the plant in height.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with what can be built on a garden plot of land

In two stems

This method of forming peppers is the most common and allows you to get a neat V-shaped plant that holds at least 20 large fruits.

Let's look at the step-by-step instructions for forming a pepper into two stems:

1. This formation must begin at the stage when the main stem of the plant branches into several side shoots.
2. Trim off all side shoots extending from the main stem, except for the very first shoot. You should get a bush with two stems of the first order.
3. When branches of several shoots begin to form on the shoots of the first order, leave one of the strongest ones and cut off the rest above the level of the first flower bud and one leaf.
4. Repeat the steps from the previous paragraph for shoots of the second, third order, and so on until about 20 ovaries are formed on the bush.
5. Pinching the tops of the two main shoots of the first order. This will help stop the growth of the plant in height and ensure the ripening of the resulting fruits.

Three stems

Pepper bushes, which are grown in three stems, take up quite a lot of space in the greenhouse, but produce a larger yield of fruits with good commercial characteristics.

Important! This method of forming a bush helps to achieve the best lighting for all peppers, as a result of which the crop ripens faster.

A step-by-step algorithm for forming a pepper bush into three stems is described below:

1. The formation of a bush begins at the moment when the main stem of the plant branches into several side shoots.
2. If the main stem immediately splits into 3-4 strong shoots, then only 3 branches are left, and the extra shoots are pinched out.
3. If at a fork the stem branches only into 2 parts, then the formed branches of the first order are not cut off and wait until the next strong shoot appears, extending from the main stem.
4. After the 3 main strong branches of the first order are selected, forks also begin to form on them. At each fork, only the strongest shoot is left, and the rest are pinched. When pruning excess branches, only the first flower bud and a couple of leaves above it are left.
5. Repeat the steps from the previous paragraph for shoots of the third order and so on until about 25 fruits are formed on the bush.
6. Pinching the tops of the three main branches of the first order. This helps stop the plant from growing in height and ensures the ripening of the resulting fruits.