Aphids on tomatoes: what to spray seedlings during flowering

General information about the pest

Aphids are small insects of various colors that belong to the order Coleoptera. There are more than 3 thousand species of aphids, some of them live in Europe. The size of these insects varies between 2-7 mm. They have a proboscis with which they pierce the surface of the leaf and extract juice from it. As products of their vital activity, they secrete a sugary liquid, the so-called honeydew. It attracts ants, which begin to raise aphids, and other insects that use it for food.

The aphids that are found on tomato bushes come in several types: white aphid, black aphid, melon aphid, potato aphid and peach aphid. In each of its species there are both winged and wingless individuals.

It is easy to notice white and black aphids on tomatoes - their color corresponds to their name, the color of wingless potato aphids is green or reddish, and the winged individuals are light green. This species is found both in open ground and in greenhouses.

The peach aphid is a small, light to dark green insect. It appears on tomatoes that grow next to peaches. When massively propagated, it can significantly deplete plants, to the point that it loses leaves and its yield is greatly reduced.

Melon aphids appear in greenhouses at the beginning of summer, and in open ground beds in the second half of summer. In one season, without treatment with drugs and under favorable conditions, aphids on tomatoes can produce several generations.

Processing rules and features

The treatment of tomato bushes with industrial preparations is carried out taking into account all personal safety requirements. When spraying tomatoes, you need to consider several important rules:

1. The working solution is prepared only in a protective respirator and rubber gloves. If the drug gets on the skin, it should be washed off immediately with plenty of running water.
2. While preparing the working solution, as well as treating the bushes, you should not eat, drink or smoke. After completing the work, you should thoroughly wash exposed areas of the body with warm water and soap.
3. Industrial preparations can only be used at the growth stage of young shoots. During flowering and the formation of fruit ovaries, their use is prohibited, since chemicals can accumulate in ripening fruits.
4. If it rains after treatment, the tomatoes must be sprayed again.
5. The tomato bush must be treated thoroughly and evenly - make sure that the solution gets not only on the lower and upper parts of the leaves, but also on the surface of the soil around the bushes.

Processing of tomato bushes should be carried out only in the early morning or late evening, in warm, dry and windless weather. Tomatoes should not be sprayed during the day, as the sun's rays will cause burns to the delicate tomato foliage.

In the greenhouse

Greenhouse conditions are comfortable not only for the rapid growth of tomatoes, but also for the reproduction of aphids. That is why tomatoes in greenhouses are much more often affected by insect pests. To combat aphids indoors, you can use the same means as for garden beds - insecticidal preparations, folk and biological remedies.

To prevent the proliferation of aphids and other insects, do not forget to regularly ventilate the greenhouse, as high air humidity creates comfortable conditions for the rapid reproduction of pests.

In the open ground

Destruction of aphids on tomatoes grown in open ground is impossible without fighting ants. They are the main reason for the appearance of pests in tomato beds. Ants spread aphids to plants using their sticky honeydew as food.

At the first signs of aphids appearing in the garden, you can use effective and natural folk recipes. If there are a large number of pests, effective industrial preparations will come to the rescue.

To water tomatoes in the garden, use only warm water. Regular weed removal and mulching of tomato beds will help prevent the appearance of aphids. It not only inhibits the growth of weeds, but also prevents insect damage to tomatoes.

Where do aphids come from?

Greenhouse aphids appear on tomatoes after planting in a greenhouse or open ground. It gives 2-3 generations on peach, then flies from the primary host to intermediate ones - weeds. When the temperature allows the tomatoes to be planted, it colonizes them and begins to feed on the leaves.

Potato and melon aphids do not have a primary host. The larvae can overwinter in open ground, on weeds that have not been harvested in the fall, or at the roots of plants. With the onset of warmth, winged viviparous females fly to garden crops, including tomatoes.

Species that do not have a primary host overwinter well in untreated greenhouses, even in regions with harsh climates. This is where aphids appear on tomato seedlings.

How to remove aphids

One of the most obvious methods is to mechanically wash away aphids from seedlings with water, but in this way we simply drive away the insects, which will return after a while. You should not postpone treatment and hope that sprinkling will solve the problem forever.

If pests are discovered before they spread over all the leaves, it will be enough to use simple solutions according to folk recipes.

Traditional medicine for aphids

Every folk recipe uses laundry soap, which allows the solution to stick to the leaves and is not washed off for 48 hours. The simplest solution is soap and baking soda. Aphids do not like bitter coating and will definitely fly away in search of untreated plantings and trees.

A decoction of plants that are poisonous to pests:

1. For convenience and when there are a large number of plants that need treatment, we prepare a solution for 10 liters of water. Pour this amount into 0.5 buckets of celandine or wormwood and yarrow.
2. Grind and pour 40 g of laundry soap into a pan.
3. Bring the water to a boil and cover with a lid, reduce the heat to low.
4. After simmering the solution for 10 minutes, wrap the pan in a blanket.
5. Strain the cooled product and spray the plants from all sides. The frequency of treatment is no more than once a week.

A decoction of tobacco dust: different from the previous recipe - we take 400 g of tobacco. All other operations are carried out according to a similar scheme.

Infusion of crushed garlic cloves:

1. Chop 4-6 small cloves of garlic with a knife or grater and add 0.5 liters of water to the pulp.
2. Add tar or laundry soap, 2 tbsp. l. sunflower oils.
3. Cover the container and put it in a dark and warm place for 24 hours.
4. For spraying, add 2 tbsp. l. concentrate for every liter of water.

Ash solution:

1. Dilute 200 g (a glass) of wood ash in 10 liters of water.
2. Add laundry or antibactericidal soap.
3. Mix the solution well and treat the seedlings of tomatoes and other vegetables.

Wood ash is used for foliar feeding and as a means of pest control.

Any industrial detergent or liquid soap:

1. 2 tbsp. l. We dilute the product in 0.5 liters of water.
2. Stir well and spray the tomato foliage on all sides.

Chemicals

If aphids are not detected immediately or the start of treatment is delayed, pesticides will have to be used. They are divided into three groups:

1. Contact ones act directly on insects when they come into contact with them.
2. Intestinal ones affect the digestive system of pests through poisoned plant sap - among these drugs it is recommended to use Bankol and Akarin.
3. Systemic ones act as contact and intestinal ones at the same time and allow you to quickly and for a long time get rid of aphids on seedlings, however, such drugs are very toxic, therefore they are not used when growing seedlings at home - among the systemic ones, “Tanrek” and “Biotlin” are recommended.

"Tanrek" has the advantage that it is not washed off with water. The insecticide is diluted in small quantities: 5 ml per bucket of water. Just one treatment per season is enough to kill aphids on seedlings. It is equally destructive for eggs, larvae, and adult insects.

For adult bushes and seedlings, Fufanon (an improved Karbofos) and Fitoverm are considered quick helpers in getting rid of aphids.

Here are a few more effective preparations for aphids on tomato seedlings:

• “Karbofos” is a contact-type product that allows you to fight midges, but not eggs; after 10 days it becomes non-toxic to aphids; dilution rate - 30 g per bucket of water;
• “Kinmiks” is a systemic drug used to combat diseases and aphids; it is used to disinfect greenhouses before planting; dilution rate - ampoule per bucket of water;
• Bleach is a strong disinfectant used to treat the room and greenhouse before planting seeds; dilution rate - 2 tbsp. l. on a bucket of water.

To ensure that insecticides fall on the underside of the leaf, where the aphids hide, we hold the sprayer's torch vertically. We process each bush from all sides. Before complete destruction of pests, it will be necessary to perform at least three treatments with an interval of 7 days.

Aphids are voracious and prolific, spread quickly, and are difficult to remove. If tomato seedlings are grown in a greenhouse or open ground, even overgrown colonies can be reliably removed with pesticides. However, it is dangerous to use such products on a balcony or in a room.

Lime aphids is a troublesome and slow task

Therefore, it is worth paying special attention to prevention: remove anthills, monitor the condition of the soil under the sprouts, arrange ventilation and inspect the leaves daily to make sure they are healthy

Signs of appearance and damage caused

Aphids appear on tomatoes in a variety of ways. Insects often overwinter in plant debris and under the bark of trees near garden beds, and with the onset of warmth, they come out from under the shelter and begin to reproduce. Flying individuals move some distance, so aphids may appear in the garden from neighboring areas. Aphids can also come to a new site on tomato seedlings that are not grown with your own hands, but purchased. Insects can be found on plant leaves, and their eggs can be found in the soil.

Aphids on tomatoes are located on the lower surfaces of leaves and on young stems and shoots. The first symptoms indicating damage:

• deformed leaves and young shoots on which a sticky film appears - traces of aphids;
• tomato growth retardation;
• there are a lot of ants near the tomato bushes.

The settlement of aphids on tomato bushes can occur at any time, during the entire growing season of the plants. If this happens, it is necessary to find a way to get rid of it as quickly as possible, since it can infect plants with various diseases.

Symptoms

Novice gardeners may not recognize aphid damage in tomato beds in time. The pest consumes sap from the top of the shoots, weakens them, resulting in greatly reduced growth. Tomatoes wither and yield decreases. By carefully inspecting garden crops, you can notice warning signs of pest infestation:

• clusters of small black and white dots are visible on the stems and leaves;
• droplets of sweet liquid appear on the leaf blades;
• seedling growth slows down, some leaves become deformed or look limp.

A sooty fungus often develops on the sticky secretions of aphids - a black coating appears. It can be easily removed with a damp sponge. Small lesions merge into solid dark spots. Having noticed signs of infestation, it is important to know how to treat aphids on tomatoes at home.

What harm does the insect cause?

The parasite is also dangerous because it transmits viral and fungal diseases. Infection occurs through the proboscis, with which the insect sucks out the juice. The pest carries diseases such as tomato mosaic, late blight, and powdery mildew.

As the colony grows, the leaves of the plant become deformed and dry out. If the tomatoes are already ripe, aphids will not cause them any harm. If not, the fruits stop growing and take on an irregular shape because they lack nutrition.

It must be said right away that the damage is very serious. The pest can suck juice not only from leaves or stems, but also from buds, as well as from flower buds. The affected plant's growth is greatly reduced. The fruits may not fully ripen. Please note that if the bush is damaged, it is not able to withstand weather changes or the influence of other factors. His immunity is sharply reduced.

Thanks to aphids, black sooty mildew (fungal infection) appears on plants, and galls grow, which make the greens even weaker. In addition, these insects attract hordes of ants that feed on honeydew. The latter is a very good environment for fungal infection.

What kind of aphids are there on tomatoes?

Almost everyone knows what aphids look like on various crops. These are small insects no more than 3-4 mm in length. They settle on the underside of leaves and young shoots, sucking their juices. At the same time, aphids on tomatoes in the greenhouse and beds produce sticky secretions - sweet honeydew, which ants love - and create “aphid farms”, spreading the larvae to healthy, uninfected plants. Depleted leaves and shoots dry out.

The second danger from aphids is that a sooty fungus begins to develop on these secretions on parts of the bush and tomato fruits and very soon the shoots become covered with black mold, which destroys the plants and the entire crop.

Only 6 varieties can appear on tomatoes:

• black
• potato;
• melon;
• white;
• red;
• greenhouse (most often it occurs in a greenhouse and greenhouse).

Black aphids, also called flower aphids, are a very dangerous pest of tomatoes. The size of adult insects is up to 4-5 mm, the color can be black, dark brown and blue, the body is shiny. The danger of the black variety is that the insect crawls along the bottom of the leaves and makes hundreds of punctures per day with its proboscis. Pathogenic microorganisms get there, and the tomato bush gets sick. After the appearance of black aphids, tomatoes die within 10-14 days.

A good remedy for aphids when they first appear on tomatoes is to wash them off with a strong stream of water from a hose, and then treat them with a soap solution. To do this, add 1 tbsp to 0.5 liters of water. liquid or diluted laundry soap or dishwashing detergent, then 0.5 cups of unrefined sunflower oil and spray the bushes with a spray bottle, trying to get on the lower part of the leaves.

Potato aphid

It is also called the large or common aphid - the largest, 3-5 mm in size, the color is bright green or pale green, in winged females the body has brown parts. There is a rare species - the red nightshade aphid.

It is spread by ants and the migration of females laying eggs. It overwinters on plant debris, most often affects greenhouse tomatoes, but can also live on cucumbers and other crops. It can produce up to 15 generations per season. Preventive treatment of tomatoes against aphids in closed ground and on the site at the beginning of the infestation involves the use of entomophages: lacewing and two-spot ladybird.

Root or white aphid

Another common type of aphid on tomatoes is the white aphid; the methods for combating it differ, since the insects spend most of their lives underground. The female lays eggs in the soil for the winter, where small insects hatch, which stick to the roots, gradually approaching the base of the bushes, destroying it.

At the same time, the aphids themselves are not visible. With severe damage, the root pest can completely destroy all tomato seedlings and bushes in the greenhouse. The color of the insects is initially white, becoming pink or brown as they mature, and the body is translucent. In greenhouses it can produce up to 50 generations, in open ground - 20-25 over the summer. The best way to fight: prevention of occurrence, which includes the following measures:

• removal of weeds during the growing season;
• mulching plantings;
• disposal of all plant residues, including removal of the root system;
• sowing green manure;
• autumn digging of soil;
• alternation of crops in the beds and in the greenhouse;
• inspection of the roots of seedlings for the presence of a pest.

If insects are noticed on the roots, it is best to use biological preparations for aphids in tomatoes: Gaupsin, Akarin, Bona-forte, Bovarin, Fufanon. If this does not help, the infected area must be treated with Aktara (or Regent, Mospilan) plants (including weeds), watering the soil at the root. Then thoroughly clear the beds of plants, treat the soil using ammonia (ammonia solution: 2 tbsp + 2 tbsp soap per bucket of water).

To prevent ammonia from getting into the eyes and respiratory tract, personal protection is required. Then the area must be sown with green manures with phytoncidal action - radish, mustard, rapeseed, and dug them into the soil for the winter. As a rule, this allows the area to be completely cleared of the parasite by spring.

melon aphid

This malicious pest of tomatoes is very small - 1-2 mm, color - from almost white to dark green. Winged females are green in color with black spots. The pest eggs overwinter in the soil, in hotbeds and greenhouses, in the spring they infect young plants, and in the second half of summer they fly out and infect outdoor beds.

An effective remedy for melon aphids is digging up the soil and freezing the greenhouse before starting the new season. In home greenhouses and greenhouses, the best methods for treating tomato bushes are the use of decoctions of garlic, celandine, Dalmatian chamomile, wormwood and other plants with a pungent odor, as well as biological preparations Actofit and Fitoverm.

On an industrial scale, the only effective way to combat the pest will be the use of chemicals - Akarina, Iskra, Biotlina.

Greenhouse aphid

Its second name is peach. It mainly affects peaches, apricots and sugar beets. But it often spreads to seedlings and weakened tomato bushes immediately after planting. In greenhouses it can completely destroy plants in 2-3 weeks.

Signs of the appearance of this pest are the presence of greenish insects on the bottom of the leaves, on the stalks and in the buds themselves. The fight against it consists of washing off the insects with a strong stream of water - insects that fall on the soil will no longer be able to climb onto the bush. An effective way to get rid of a small amount of pest is to introduce predator insects into the greenhouse (they can be bought in specialized stores): lacewings, ladybugs, sand wasps.

What types of aphids eat tomatoes?

Aphids differ in external characteristics and in the structure of the body, so it is recommended to know which particular variety appeared on the plants and what features it has.

Black

Black garden aphids are divided into the following types:

Externally, the insects are about 0.5 cm in length, with a flat oval-shaped body and many legs.

White

The white aphid has a drop-shaped appearance and is also white in color, which is why it is sometimes compared to drops of morning dew. If you look closely, you can see the typical structure for this species: proboscis, antennae, many legs. The body is translucent, can be with or without wings. Also, this type is called root.

Peach

The peculiarity of this species is its small size compared to others, up to 2.5 mm in length. The body is oval, there is a trunk and antennae. The color is rich, peach, but a little transparent, sometimes it can be pinkish, the eye color is brown. Females can be either winged or wingless.

Bakhchevaya

It has several shades: from yellow to transparent green. It is also called cotton. These are the smallest insects of their species, reaching a size of up to 1.8 mm. They act as carriers of about 50 viruses.

Signs of aphid damage to tomatoes

There are several signs by which a gardener can detect aphids. Even in cases where the insects themselves are not visible, one can conclude that the crop has been damaged.

Here are the main signs of plant damage:

• leaves and ovaries on young shoots immediately turn yellow, and then dry out and curl;
• the presence of a sticky coating (sweet honeydew), which is released during the life of pests;
• the bushes begin to hurt and slow down their growth.

These signs may indicate that the tomato seedlings are affected by aphids. In this case, appropriate measures must be taken to destroy the pests.

How to fight?

What to do if the plant is attacked by insects: fight with chemical and biological preparations. They help get rid of colonies in a short time. The active substances penetrate through the oral apparatus into the intestines and torso. But not every person will decide to treat plants with pesticides, because these substances will remain in the plants.

Folk remedies are safe but ineffective methods. They can only repel insects, not destroy them. The result is that the aphids move to neighboring vegetable crops and continue to reproduce safely. But first things first.

How to process tomatoes?

To quickly and permanently get rid of pests, you need to know how to properly deal with them. The following methods are distinguished:

• chemical;
• physical;
• using folk remedies.

Did you know? The houses of aphids are called galls. When they are damaged, insects release liquid to repair their homes, while losing weight and risking death from exhaustion!

Physical methods are the least effective, and manual collection or hose-off are time-consuming. But people often resort to them because they believe that if there are tomatoes themselves, then they should not be processed in any way.

When the first signs of damage appear, measures are taken immediately, since insects spread quickly, especially during fruiting of the vegetable, since during this period the tomato bush is saturated with a large amount of juice.

Chemicals

This is a quick and easy way to save a plant, since the aphid habitat is treated just once with the product, and it disappears.

Important! When purchasing chemicals against aphids, study their effect on human health to avoid poisoning or allergies! Preparations for controlling aphids:

1. "Karbofos" . It is necessary to spray before flowering, since harmful substances are released within two weeks and then disintegrate. Works only on adults, not eggs. Dilute 30 grams per 15 liters of water, spray on areas where insects accumulate.
2. Bleaching powder . You need to dilute 2 tablespoons with 15 liters of water, then treat the leaves. A universal remedy for both the plant itself and the soil.
3. "Trichopolus" . Use according to the scheme: 20 tablets per 10 liters of water. This solution is safe for both tomatoes and human health. The drug is used to treat diseases, but can also be used as a chemical against insects.

Pay attention to the instructions for the drug you are using. This will not only help the plant get rid of pests, but its fruits will also be safe for humans to eat.

Traditional methods

If chemicals are not suitable, traditional methods are used, which are also effective. But you need to know how to treat tomatoes so that the plant does not rot and develops well.

The following methods are used:

1. Using soda . To prepare the solution, mix three tablespoons of baking soda in a bucket of water, then treat the affected areas. It must be taken into account that soda in large quantities affects the composition of the soil, and as a result the plant develops more slowly.
2. Using ammonia . To do this, 2 tablespoons of ammonia are mixed with 10 liters of water, after which for 10 days with a break of 2-3 days you need to spray the plant along the entire perimeter and the plants adjacent to it for prevention.

Wood ash is also used, but it is effective if the aphids are close to the ground. Find out also how to get rid of midges on tomatoes.

Ash-soap solutions

Soap (laundry or liquid) works well against aphids and other pests. Cosmetic, children's, fruit, etc. It's better not to take it.

To obtain a solution (per 10 liters of water) you need to take:

• 10-15 tablespoons of laundry soap.
• 5-8 tablespoons of liquid soap.
• 5 tablespoons of tar soap.

The soap is taken not in the form of a piece, but in shavings, which can be easily obtained using a regular grater. It is better to dissolve in warm water - then the process will go much faster.

To destroy aphids, ash obtained from burning firewood, plywood, dies, etc. is also used. Take 1.5 cups of ash (250-300 g), dissolve in 10 liters of water and cook after boiling for half an hour. Be sure to add 2 tablespoons of soap shavings to the solution, because otherwise the liquid will quickly be washed off from the surface of the tomato leaves.

Coca Cola

The simplest folk remedy. It is enough to purchase a bottle of this drink, install a sprayer and treat the affected bushes.

Mustard

100 g of mustard powder is diluted in 3 liters of hot water, then infused for 3-4 hours. After sediment appears at the bottom, 4 tbsp is added. l. crushed soap, the same amount of vegetable oil and 5 liters of water. The prepared solution is poured into a spray bottle and processed.

Vodka

You just need to buy vodka, install a sprayer on the bottle and spray the infected plants. You can use diluted alcohol.

Ammonia

4 tbsp is diluted in a bucket of water. l. ammonia and the prepared solution are sprayed every 3 days. The procedure should be repeated no more than 4 times.

Ammonia against aphids - the best effective recipes

Baking soda

A simple recipe including 20 liters of water and 3-4 tbsp. l. soda You can spray the affected tomatoes with the prepared solution.

It is impossible to increase the concentration of soda - this can lead to the growth of tomatoes.

Green soap

A more natural, but no less effective remedy than laundry soap. You will need to take 400 ml of this soap per bucket of water, stir thoroughly and start spraying.

Vinegar

A solution prepared from 1 liter of water, 1 tbsp. has worked well. l. vinegar and 10 drops of liquid soap or detergent.

Birch tar

The tar itself is not capable of poisoning aphids, however, its pungent odor repels insect pests well. A solution is prepared from this substance, consisting of 15 g of the main component, 50 g of tar soap, and 10 liters of water.

Boric acid

You can kill aphids on tomatoes using a boric acid solution. To prepare it you will need to take 2 g of acid per 1 liter of water.

A more concentrated solution can harm the culture.

Milk with iodine

You can remove the pest using iodine and milk. 0.5 ml of iodine and 1 liter of water are added to heated 100 ml of milk. The finished composition is used for spraying.

Flea shampoo

You can use a budget flea shampoo designed for cats and dogs. You will need 1-2 tbsp per bucket of water. l. this remedy.

Herbal infusions

Another popular group of aphid remedies are herbal water infusions.

They must be used with greater caution, since in high concentrations they can cause burns on tomato leaves. In addition, some plants are poisonous and can cause an allergic reaction in humans.

According to the experience of summer residents, the following infusions are the most effective and at the same time safe (in all recipes, the resulting solution must be brought to 10 liters of water):

1. Onion - several onions (200 g) with peels are placed in 1 liter of water for several hours, then a teaspoon of laundry soap is added and filtered.
2. Garlic - several heads of garlic (200) g are crushed together with the husk, then put in 1 liter of water and left for a week, then filtered.
3. Potato : take 1 kg of tops, chop and put in 10 liters of water for 4 hours, then filter. If the tops are dry, they can be taken in the amount of 800 g per 10 liters.
4. Citrus : take fresh peels of any citrus (100 g is enough) and pour a liter of warm water, leave for 3 days.
5. Dandelion : Dandelions grow in almost every area, so you can easily collect leaves (400 g) and roots (200 g), chop them and leave in a bucket of water for 4 hours.
6. Tobacco - dry tobacco (1 cup - 200 g) dissolved in 5 liters. Then let it brew for 2 days and filter.
7. Chamomile - 100 g of pharmaceutical chamomile is poured overnight with a liter of water, then filtered. Grind the laundry soap, take 3 large spoons of shavings, mix thoroughly.
8. Sorrel - take the roots of horse sorrel in an amount of 400 g, pour in 2-3 liters of hot water and leave for a day, then filter.
9. Pepper : buy 100 g of chili pepper and infuse 1-2 days in 1 liter of water. The solution must be diluted to 10 liters - otherwise the tomatoes will get burned.
10. Pine : this remedy is suitable if pine grows on the site. It is necessary to collect 1 kg of needles and leave for a week in 4 d water, stirring every day.

To prepare aphid infusions, only healthy plants are taken - without damage or signs of disease. Otherwise the effect may be the opposite

Herbal decoctions

Decoctions are a little more difficult to obtain, but they fight aphids even better, since the beneficial substances dissolve in larger quantities in boiling water.

To process tomatoes you can use the following recipes:

• Tobacco decoction : dry 200 g of tobacco leaves, chop them, leave for 1 day in 5 liters, add another 5 liters and cook over low heat for 2 hours after boiling.
• Yarrow decoction : take 1 kg of dry herb, pour 2 liters and boil in a water bath for half an hour. Then you need to dilute 10 liters and let it stand in a dark place for 2-3 days.
• Pepper decoction : buy 100 g of chili pepper, chop and boil in 1 liter of water (1 hour after boiling over low heat). Then bring to 10 liters, add 2 tablespoons of soap shavings.
• Decoction of celandine : collect 400 g of the green part of the plant, chop it, add 1 liter of water and leave for 2 days. Then bring to a boil and cook for half an hour, filter and bring to 10 liters of water.

Mechanical

You can get rid of aphids on tomatoes in a greenhouse and open ground mechanically. This method includes manual collection of insects, removal of foliage affected by parasites, followed by burning them, and washing the bushes with water from a hose.

Such manipulations are performed daily until the harmful insects are completely eliminated.

Biological

To destroy pest colonies, you can resort to one of the safest methods - biological. At the same time, natural enemies of parasites are lured into the garden plot. These can be flies, wasps and lacewings. Insects eat aphids and their larvae with great pleasure. In just a few days, this will solve the problem.

Birds will also help in pest control. In order for them to fly to the site, immediately after planting, you need to install drinking bowls in the garden.

Use a stream of water to remove aphids

Method 1. Wash off pests with a stream of water. Can be used for small-scale problems. This option is also suitable for those who do not know how to deal with aphids on tomato seedlings. The method is completely safe and this is its main advantage. Using water pressure, wash away aphid pockets from the back of the leaves and from the stems. You should carefully hold the plants with your hand and methodically clean them. In this case, you need to use warm water.

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Repeat the treatment several times. If pests are found again after a day, repeat the process. If flushing does not help, choose one of the methods described below

Method 2. Tobacco dust Purchase the composition at any gardening store. Carefully study the instructions to understand all the features of preparing an aqueous solution and the proportions of the components. It is best to dilute dust with a soap solution. Then the composition will stick much better to the tomatoes and cover the leaves and stems with a thin layer. Process several times. The composition does not kill aphids immediately, but its smell repels new pests and prevents their reproduction

Method 3. Ammonia or ammonia Prepare a soap solution at the rate of 2-3 tablespoons of grated soap per 10 liters of water. Stir until the soap is completely dissolved. Add 30 ml. ammonia. Mix well. Since the smell of the solution is not the most pleasant, I recommend purchasing a respirator in advance. Apply a thick layer to the plants

It is important not to leave any areas to prevent aphid survival. Ammonia kills pests quickly enough. In addition to fighting aphids, ammonia acts as a fertilizer, saturating tomatoes with nitrogen

Therefore, there is no need to apply nitrogen fertilizers after spraying with ammonia.

Method 4. Wormwood, celandine or pepper You can make a tincture, in which case the herbs are kept in water for 2-3 days. You can also make a decoction by bringing the liquid to a boil and boiling the greens for 5-10 minutes. Spray plants both to combat aphids and as a preventive measure. The product is completely safe and can be used even every other day, if necessary. You can add a little laundry soap. This way the solution sticks better and the treatment is much more effective.

Method 5. Garlic and baking soda Buy baking soda and garlic if you don't have them on hand. Peel the garlic and cut into small pieces. You can crush it with a special device. Make an infusion of 1 liter of warm water, 2 cloves of garlic and a teaspoon of soda. Mix well and let sit for 2-3 hours or a little longer. Spray the plants. Distribute the product evenly to kill all pests and prevent the appearance of new ones.

Method 6. Wood ash It is best to use fine ash, as in the photo. It is best to sift it first. Prepare a soap solution and add ash to it at the rate of one liter jar per bucket of water. Mix well and let it brew for 24 hours. Treat the plant with a spray bottle. Repeat the process once a week to kill aphids and prevent new insects from appearing.

Method 7. Chemicals Choose what to treat the tomatoes with. There are many options, I personally used Aktara and Inta-Vir and am satisfied with them. But there are many insecticides and they are all effective. Read the instructions carefully. It is impossible to violate the proportions and conditions of preparation, just as you cannot pick tomatoes for a certain time. Treat the plants. Usually one time is enough to completely kill aphids. This method is great for large areas

The best products for greenhouses

If appropriate measures are not taken, aphids in greenhouses can multiply as rapidly as in open ground.

It is necessary to create conditions that are uncomfortable for aphids:

• the temperature in the greenhouse should be 22-24 degrees, and the humidity should not be lower than 85%;
• regularly remove dead plant branches and ventilate the greenhouse;
• in winter, disinfect the greenhouse with bleach or caustic soda.

If aphids are present, all methods recommended for open ground can be applied to them. Biological agents that work effectively include introducing ladybugs into a greenhouse and fumigating them with tobacco smoke with the doors tightly closed. Among the chemicals, the most popular in greenhouses are Fitoverm, Entobacterin, and Biotlin.

For open ground

The use of outdoor products directly depends on the proliferation of pests. Gardeners should always be on guard: aphids are not particularly picky about where they settle.

If one year she is indifferent to tomatoes, then the next she can settle there. According to gardeners and gardeners, soap solution and ash are recognized as the best folk remedies. Among the chemicals - green soap, Inta-Vir, Fitoverm, the drug Oberon, used at the initial stage of aphid infestation.

Which methods to choose depending on the growth period

The use of control methods should be based on what stage of development the plant is at.

Seedlings require non-aggressive methods: young leaves and stems have fluff, which, if touched, can harm the plant itself.

Mechanical and biological methods are suitable here:

1. Collecting aphids by hand. For a painless operation, use a toothbrush to brush aphids off twigs and leaves.
2. Washing off insects from seedlings with a stream from a sprayer.
3. Removing severely affected leaves of seedlings.
4. Spraying with soap solution. You can replace the soap with regular dishwashing liquid diluted with water.
5. Attracting a population of ladybugs to the garden bed, which will destroy the pests.
6. Treatment with chemicals before flowering.

The question that concerns every summer resident is how to deal with aphids on tomatoes during flowering? There is only one answer - do not use chemicals during this period, as this will harm the plant itself and the insects that spread pollen.

During fruiting, if there is a large population of aphids, mechanical and folk remedies are usually powerless. Chemicals that are less harmful to crops and health are needed. A product such as Fitoverm is made on an organic basis, so it does not cause much harm: the fruits can be collected a few days after treatment.

Remember! Picked tomatoes must be thoroughly washed before consumption to remove any possible chemical deposits.

Prevention

There are several preventative measures to prevent aphids from appearing on tomato bushes. It is worth considering what a gardener should do if there is a risk of these pests.

1. Dig up the soil in the fall after harvesting. The depth should be 10 - 15 cm. In this case, all plant remains must be collected and burned. It is forbidden to throw them into a compost pit, as there is a high probability of contamination.
2. In spring, the soil needs to be treated with Karbofos. It will destroy the larvae and eggs of pests.
3. Between the rows where the seedlings will be, it is necessary to plant strong-smelling plants. It is better to use dill, celery, marigold or another plant that produces a strong odor.
4. During the season, the gardener should periodically check plant stems and the lower parts of leaves to detect pests in a timely manner.
5. It is important to destroy all ants near the beds. They feed on aphids and contribute to their spread in the immediate area.

These are the main measures to combat aphids in the country.

If you plan to grow paternocopic tomatoes on a balcony or in an apartment, then it is worth purchasing ready-made soil. It is definitely not contaminated and already has the necessary nutritional properties. It is impossible to do this in a garden environment, so it is necessary to implement the above preventive measures. They will significantly reduce the likelihood of crop contamination.

Mistakes of beginner gardeners

Inexperienced gardeners often do not pay attention to signals that there are aphids in the area, and therefore precious time for a quick response is lost, and the pests make their home in the garden.

Signs that precede an aphid invasion:

1. Ant activity. Ants are friends of aphids, so if you notice the movement of ants in the beds, it means that aphids will soon appear on the seedlings. What to do? Fight ants.
2. Several pests on the branches. This is a signal that they will attract hordes of aphids in a short period of time. Immediately start spraying the plants with what you have at hand: soap solution or ash.
3. Rarely weeding the beds. Frequent loosening of the soil is the key to good air circulation between tomato bushes, which is beneficial for plant health. If you grow crops in greenhouses, do not forget to ventilate them more often.

Inspection of plants should be done several times a week, looking under the leaves of the plantings, because this is a favorite breeding place for aphids. The faster you react and apply one of the methods described above, the more effective the measures to destroy aphids will be.

Tips and tricks

The following recommendations will help you effectively exterminate pests without harming beneficial insects:

1. If you decide to chemically treat plants, do it in the evening. This way you won't harm pollinating insects.
2. Once aphids appear, treatment must be carried out throughout the season. If you relax, all your efforts in May may become fruitless in July. Processing can include all available methods: from folk to chemical.
3. Among the specific treatment methods used are spraying bushes with Coca-Cola. Experienced gardeners claim that this remedy is effective. Keep the bottle of Coca-Cola open until the gases dissipate, then add a little liquid soap or dishwashing detergent to help the drink linger on the leaves longer. Put on the sprayer and get to work. To prevent Cola from baking in the sun and harming the leaves, it is better to spray it in the evening.